Very nice - a miniature lumber mill for the home luthier. FWIW, Nick Engler designed a number of jigs in which he used a 1/4-32 threaded bolt as an adjustable stop. Each turn advances the bolt about 0.031". Putting such a stop on your "micro-mill' could make it easy to tune to the desired thickness. Your mill is a great idea, Kevin. Thanks for sharing.
Cool stuff, once again. You responded to a comment I made on another video and mentioned Michael Bashkin here in Fort Collins, where I live. (I couldn't find that video again to directly respond - sorry - I was impressed that you did respond!!!) I have, in fact, visited his shop a few years back with a friend who is a member of a local luthier's guild. At the level I am at, I'm not sure I would really want to impose myself upon a master craftsman like Mr. Bashkin, though - I am sure he's got plenty to do on an on-going basis. He make works of art for sure. Know that you are helping me make better guitars already, and saving me time, which is huge!!!
Great Idea Kevin and a whole lot cheaper than an Accu-Slice! Looks like it's time to build another jig! LOL! I've got a bunch of red cedar to slice up anyways!
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge Kevin. Would you be interested in doing a breakdown of your automatic kerfed lining cutting jig when the weather improves in the UK I'm starting on my first acoustic. I haven't started yet just in case I need the timber for a boat😀👍🏼Thanks again,Trevor
I have a video on making linings, but I will try to produce another one focusing on a couple of jigs specifically for cutting the kerfs at specific intervals. Thanks for the suggestion:)
@@thepragmaticluthier Thank you for your reply Kevin. I actually did watch that the automatic jig intrigued me? I got the gist of the layout but I'm sure there's much in its construction I missed like relationship between the the little spring steel shuffler and the lead in angle of the feed mechanism?? Thanks again for the great content and taking the time👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks Kevin, that thin slice jig for the bandsaw is a great idea. I have something similar for my cabinet saw, but I can see how yours would be excellent for the bandsaw - I think I'll build something over the weekend for my 22 inch bandsaw (i even have a 6 TPI blade that I have never even had a use for yet). Again, thanks for sharing your excellent ideas with us all, much appreciated.
I'm intrigued by your mention of a similar system on your table saw. I considered the same thing, but abandoned the idea because thin slices falling on the waste side of the blade often fall through the throat plate. I didn't consider a zero clearance tape on a special plate. The only down side of a table saw is the 1/8" of waste generated each time you make a cut. Still, I think that system may be worth rethinking. Thanks for mentioning it.
@@thepragmaticluthier For the record, I use a thin Kerf (2mm) blade on my cabinet saw and make my own throat plate for zero clearance, it works perfectly.
I really like the way this gent presents information. No flashy guitar music at the beginning, just good quality info. But! Please, please can you use a measurement system that’s means something to the rest of the world outside America! I have absolutely no idea what 60 thou looks like or fractions like 15/32”. I think this is likely a common gripe with videos from America.
1.5 mm is approximately. 060 inches or 1/16 inch, If you bought yourself a nice Imperial measurement steel rule 18 inches or 1/2 metre long, they usually have metric on one side and you could use it for both measuring systems. Fractions work the same in both systems. Likewise many steel measuring tapes also have both systems for longer items.
This is a handy jig, I built a similar "sled" for cutting headstock scarf joints. Do you think a similar jig could be made for cutting backs & sides? Instead of the magnet did you try using the bandsaw fence or would it bind?
Yes. I'm certain that it can. I have contemplated that many times. The problems I anticipate are; Holding the billets or flitch: I doubt that double face tape will be up to the task, providing enough travel for a rim length of materials while supporting and balancing the weight of the billet without it trying to dive over the outfield side of the bandsaw. If you come up with this system or have some suggestions about building one, I hope you might share them .
That material is one of three that I frequently use. They are acrylic, epoxy based or polyester based, each one having much different working properties. None of these materials are marketed to the lutherie industry but they are available from a few sources.
Hi Kevin. Do you use a filler strip and come back and glue in the acrylic later, or fit the whole thing and use ca glue? Or perhaps another method I’m not aware of?
You cannot compensate for bandsaw drift by adjusting fences and peripheral jigs and fixtures. Drift is the antitheses of proper operation and is a serious deterrent to cutting results, even curves. Bandsaw drift is caused by; misalignment of the table, uneven or damaged set in the blade. The very first thing you do with a bandsaw is remove the drift by aligning the table. The likelihood of table misaligned is very high, even in a new bandsaw. Fortunately, realigning the table is almost always a simple matter. The following link will show you an excellent demonstration on removing drift . ruclips.net/video/vNdrkmx6ehI/видео.html
Hey Kevin, I really like and appreciate your videos. I think we are a lot alike, but you have a great deal more experience building guitars than I. In this video, what kind of double sided tape are you using? The tape i have is so strong I think I would be breaking the pieces when pulling them apart. I’m thinking you are using tape with less strength or you have come up with a trick so you don’t break the pieces.
Thanks for bringing that up. I never considered addressing the issue of tape. I use only the thin polymer rim tape because it's very thin, about .001 -.002 thick. Double face tape is very tenacious and it can be very difficult to remove a thin workpiece from a surface, but I have found that using less tape, a few small patches when possible, is helpful and carefully removing this pieces with a single edge blade or thin pallet knife is helpful. Experience with it seems to be the only realistic guide to judicious use.
That material is one of three that I frequently use. They are acrylic, epoxy based or polyester based, each one having much different working properties. None of these materials are marketed to the lutherie industry but they are available from a few sources.
Thank you! Fantastic fixtures, appreciate you sharing.
very cool jig ! a mini saw mill and very safe... thanks for paying this forward...
Love these jigs. Thanks for sharing these cool ideas!
Very nice - a miniature lumber mill for the home luthier. FWIW, Nick Engler designed a number of jigs in which he used a 1/4-32 threaded bolt as an adjustable stop. Each turn advances the bolt about 0.031". Putting such a stop on your "micro-mill' could make it easy to tune to the desired thickness. Your mill is a great idea, Kevin. Thanks for sharing.
THANK YOU, for sharing that suggestion for an adjustment system. That's my next step.
! The picture and sound is better now; much appreciated
Thank you. I found that my problem was not in my camera,bu tin the way i exported the finished video from my video editor.
Excellent video, thanks.
Beautiful!
Thanks for sharing this....ingenious. 👍👍👍
I may have forgotten to say Happy New Year and Thank you to you!
Thanks, and the same to you sir.
Excellent video and technique!
Thanks !
Teaching on how to make life easier for yourself in the workshop doesn't get any better than this. Love it! Thanks.
Great video, very interesting!
thank you
Cool stuff, once again. You responded to a comment I made on another video and mentioned Michael Bashkin here in Fort Collins, where I live. (I couldn't find that video again to directly respond - sorry - I was impressed that you did respond!!!) I have, in fact, visited his shop a few years back with a friend who is a member of a local luthier's guild. At the level I am at, I'm not sure I would really want to impose myself upon a master craftsman like Mr. Bashkin, though - I am sure he's got plenty to do on an on-going basis. He make works of art for sure. Know that you are helping me make better guitars already, and saving me time, which is huge!!!
THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP OVER THE YEARS. I'M CERTAIN THAT 2024 WILL BE ANOTHER YEAR PACKED WITH MORE GREAT INFORMATION.
Neat jig, thanks!
Great Idea Kevin and a whole lot cheaper than an Accu-Slice! Looks like it's time to build another jig! LOL! I've got a bunch of red cedar to slice up anyways!
Great bandsaw jig. That looks very helpful.
That's a really interesting jig! Definitely one I need to think about.
This is great stuff. Thank you Kevin
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge Kevin. Would you be interested in doing a breakdown of your automatic kerfed lining cutting jig when the weather improves in the UK I'm starting on my first acoustic. I haven't started yet just in case I need the timber for a boat😀👍🏼Thanks again,Trevor
I have a video on making linings, but I will try to produce another one focusing on a couple of jigs specifically for cutting the kerfs at specific intervals. Thanks for the suggestion:)
@@thepragmaticluthier Thank you for your reply Kevin. I actually did watch that the automatic jig intrigued me? I got the gist of the layout but I'm sure there's much in its construction I missed like relationship between the the little spring steel shuffler and the lead in angle of the feed mechanism?? Thanks again for the great content and taking the time👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks Kevin, that thin slice jig for the bandsaw is a great idea. I have something similar for my cabinet saw, but I can see how yours would be excellent for the bandsaw - I think I'll build something over the weekend for my 22 inch bandsaw (i even have a 6 TPI blade that I have never even had a use for yet). Again, thanks for sharing your excellent ideas with us all, much appreciated.
I'm intrigued by your mention of a similar system on your table saw. I considered the same thing, but abandoned the idea because thin slices falling on the waste side of the blade often fall through the throat plate. I didn't consider a zero clearance tape on a special plate. The only down side of a table saw is the 1/8" of waste generated each time you make a cut. Still, I think that system may be worth rethinking. Thanks for mentioning it.
@@thepragmaticluthier For the record, I use a thin Kerf (2mm) blade on my cabinet saw and make my own throat plate for zero clearance, it works perfectly.
Very nice, I love it!
I really like the way this gent presents information. No flashy guitar music at the beginning, just good quality info.
But! Please, please can you use a measurement system that’s means something to the rest of the world outside America! I have absolutely no idea what 60 thou looks like or fractions like 15/32”.
I think this is likely a common gripe with videos from America.
1.5 mm is approximately. 060 inches or 1/16 inch,
If you bought yourself a nice Imperial measurement steel rule 18 inches or 1/2 metre long, they usually have metric on one side and you could use it for both measuring systems. Fractions work the same in both systems. Likewise many steel measuring tapes also have both systems for longer items.
This is a handy jig, I built a similar "sled" for cutting headstock scarf joints.
Do you think a similar jig could be made for cutting backs & sides?
Instead of the magnet did you try using the bandsaw fence or would it bind?
Yes. I'm certain that it can. I have contemplated that many times. The problems I anticipate are; Holding the billets or flitch: I doubt that double face tape will be up to the task, providing enough travel for a rim length of materials while supporting and balancing the weight of the billet without it trying to dive over the outfield side of the bandsaw. If you come up with this system or have some suggestions about building one, I hope you might share them .
Kevin I forgot to ask what the material was you were cutting in this video? Love your videos! I specialize in Banjos! Thanks again!
That material is one of three that I frequently use. They are acrylic, epoxy based or polyester based, each one having much different working properties. None of these materials are marketed to the lutherie industry but they are available from a few sources.
@@thepragmaticluthierthis product looks like the acrylic pen turning blanks I see in many shops
Thank you!@@thepragmaticluthier
Hi Kevin. Do you use a filler strip and come back and glue in the acrylic later, or fit the whole thing and use ca glue? Or perhaps another method I’m not aware of?
I do use a filler strip. I don't think I could control all of the binding elements without one.
I would add another base plate so you can align with the drift of the bandsaw
You cannot compensate for bandsaw drift by adjusting fences and peripheral jigs and fixtures. Drift is the antitheses of proper operation and is a serious deterrent to cutting results, even curves. Bandsaw drift is caused by; misalignment of the table, uneven or damaged set in the blade. The very first thing you do with a bandsaw is remove the drift by aligning the table. The likelihood of table misaligned is very high, even in a new bandsaw. Fortunately, realigning the table is almost always a simple matter. The following link will show you an excellent demonstration on removing drift . ruclips.net/video/vNdrkmx6ehI/видео.html
Hey Kevin, I really like and appreciate your videos. I think we are a lot alike, but you have a great deal more experience building guitars than I. In this video, what kind of double sided tape are you using? The tape i have is so strong I think I would be breaking the pieces when pulling them apart. I’m thinking you are using tape with less strength or you have come up with a trick so you don’t break the pieces.
Thanks for bringing that up. I never considered addressing the issue of tape. I use only the thin polymer rim tape because it's very thin, about .001 -.002 thick. Double face tape is very tenacious and it can be very difficult to remove a thin workpiece from a surface, but I have found that using less tape, a few small patches when possible, is helpful and carefully removing this pieces with a single edge blade or thin pallet knife is helpful. Experience with it seems to be the only realistic guide to judicious use.
@@thepragmaticluthier thanks for the response.
great jig.... was wondering where you get the product you are cutting on the bandsaw? thx
That material is one of three that I frequently use. They are acrylic, epoxy based or polyester based, each one having much different working properties. None of these materials are marketed to the lutherie industry but they are available from a few sources.
could you share the source please.. thx@@thepragmaticluthier
They are pen making blanks. There are several sources of them in both wood and polymer varieties.@@bloomqmx