You are the only person whom makes a useful video of all the little tricks, along with every step of the 4 way heater control valve, very good job my friend 🤜🤛
My heater bypass valve just broke today. Glad I found this useful video because it appears there are 2 different valves and mine is the same as in the video. Thanks 👍
This evening I only planned on a 20 minute spark plug job on cylinder 2. The plug boot was tough to take off so when I finally yanked it off my hand smacked into the heater valve and it broke and fluid spewed everywhere. Can't believe how cheaply that shit was made.. Cheers
Haha dude freakin hilarious @4:44. Also Thanks for the video, might have to look at this on me ExPloDeR as well before tearing into the thermostat housing.
Great if there is any other way I can help please feel free to Email me at GSTARRGARAGE@GMAIL.COM, no i am not a business it's just the address for the computer in my garage :)
Hi, great job. They use those types of Clamps because they maintain the "Same Clamping Pressure" with all of the extreme Temperature Fluctuations. (Expansions and Contractions) A standard Hex Head Clamp will eventually work its way loose and need periodic tightening. Yes they are a pain butt (TOX) but they are there for a good reason. Hope this helps you understand better. Have a great one. And thank for the video.
I had the same problem on an 07 , cheap plastic parts. The thing is that the intake and the thermostat housings are made out of the same kind of plastic and probably more stuff to.
Glad you enjoyed the video, Jason was born in the north of England then grew up in Norfolk, I was born and grew up in London, although I will admit his accent is not from the north of England maybe he changed it to sound better and get acting jobs.
I put a new one on my 2005 explorer xlt v8. The little screw rusted and coolant started to leak. I found out that little vacuum hose that had been just laying under the hood for years not connected to nothing goes to the control valve. It caused the check engine light to come on and my reader said small evap leak. Mechanic shops told me it was my gas cap. After about 4 new gas caps and turning the check engine light off with my reader and pulling the negative battery cable for quite some time I found the problem to be that. And or the one inside the truck that connects to the open and vent door control disconnected. 😮 All is well now. Good luck.😅
That's great news, unfortunately car part stores and shops sometimes just guess, very few will do investigation, they prefer quick fix get you out the door and charge you another fee when it doesn't fix the problem. That's why I have a lot of customers come to me after they have been to the 'so called experts'
With the heater on full and all tanks filled to the correct level run the engine with the radiator cap off, topping up as needed when level drops, then when the fluid starts to push come out of the filler hole with no air put cap on and it should be good, BUT I always check it after a drive and it is safe to remove the cap.
For me the vacuum hose you took off its completely destroyed. Looking for videos that have how to replace it. From the heating valve control to the firewall.. any suggestions? For a ford explorer 07
If I understand correctly the problem you have, you will have to get under the dash on the passenger side to locate the other end and take a piece of what you find to a auto spares shop and get a length of that hose. Sorry I cannot be of much more help.
Hi man!! Thank you for the video. I have a 2003 Explorer but I have a question, my heater valve is a 2 port which hose is this? The inlet or the outlet? And in Which direction should the antifreeze flow? Because I noticed that the valve has an arrow on it like if the valve is directional. Thank you so much.
OK without seeing what you have it’s very hard to guess all I can say is that the flow must go into the heater matrix and come out from it in all honesty I cannot imagine it makes a difference as long as it flows through it. Unless there is something I am missing but it’s really hard to help you without actually seeing everything. So please do take my comments with a pinch of salt. Usually the water pump will push water into the heater matrix and then it will return. I’m really sorry I can’t be much more help but without seeing it it is difficult to give you a definitive answer.
Is the valve not working or you just have no heat ? If it’s the valve could be it’s stuck , the diaphragm inside is defective OR you are not getting vacuum. Also make sure the hoses are connected the correct way around. If no heat but valve operates you may have an air lock in the heater matrix or the matrix may be clogged, try flushing the heater matrix by removing heater hoses and flush through with garden hose.
You are the only person whom makes a useful video of all the little tricks, along with every step of the 4 way heater control valve, very good job my friend 🤜🤛
Glad it helped, I try, I am not perfect but hope it helps.
My heater bypass valve just broke today. Glad I found this useful video because it appears there are 2 different valves and mine is the same as in the video. Thanks 👍
Great glad this can help.
This evening I only planned on a 20 minute spark plug job on cylinder 2. The plug boot was tough to take off so when I finally yanked it off my hand smacked into the heater valve and it broke and fluid spewed everywhere. Can't believe how cheaply that shit was made.. Cheers
Yes unfortunately when you put plastic on engines it breaks so easily if you watch many of my videos you know that I bitch about it all the time
I accidentally broke this trying to change my valve cover gaskets. Now I'm here haha.
Ain't life a bitch, this is why I HATE plastic on cars
Brilliant!
Thank you!
welcome
You're so funny! And so nice of a man. Good video
thank you hope you keep enjoying the videos on my channel
Thanks a lot !!! Nice video
Haha dude freakin hilarious @4:44. Also Thanks for the video, might have to look at this on me ExPloDeR as well before tearing into the thermostat housing.
Glad you enjoyed it, I try not to take it too serious and hopefully it helps in some way.
Thanks you . Your video really helped
Great if there is any other way I can help please feel free to Email me at GSTARRGARAGE@GMAIL.COM, no i am not a business it's just the address for the computer in my garage :)
Hi, great job. They use those types of Clamps because they maintain the "Same Clamping Pressure" with all of the extreme Temperature Fluctuations. (Expansions and Contractions) A standard Hex Head Clamp will eventually work its way loose and need periodic tightening. Yes they are a pain butt (TOX) but they are there for a good reason. Hope this helps you understand better. Have a great one. And thank for the video.
I’ll stick with the good old style hose clamps, I’ve never had a problem with them.
I had the same problem on an 07 , cheap plastic parts. The thing is that the intake and the thermostat housings are made out of the same kind of plastic and probably more stuff to.
Has anyone ever told you you sound exactly like actor, @JasonStatham?
...-cool video by the way...🏋🏼♀️
Glad you enjoyed the video, Jason was born in the north of England then grew up in Norfolk, I was born and grew up in London, although I will admit his accent is not from the north of England maybe he changed it to sound better and get acting jobs.
I put a new one on my 2005 explorer xlt v8. The little screw rusted and coolant started to leak. I found out that little vacuum hose that had been just laying under the hood for years not connected to nothing goes to the control valve. It caused the check engine light to come on and my reader said small evap leak. Mechanic shops told me it was my gas cap. After about 4 new gas caps and turning the check engine light off with my reader and pulling the negative battery cable for quite some time I found the problem to be that. And or the one inside the truck that connects to the open and vent door control disconnected. 😮 All is well now. Good luck.😅
That's great news, unfortunately car part stores and shops sometimes just guess, very few will do investigation, they prefer quick fix get you out the door and charge you another fee when it doesn't fix the problem. That's why I have a lot of customers come to me after they have been to the 'so called experts'
Would some type of hose heat shielding help with the plastic breaking down slower from the heat?
It certainly would
in "merica we callz dat tool a linesman
😂😂😂😂😂😂 you sound like everyone that works on my truck 😭😭😭😭😭
I say that on every truck, they are a pain in the ass and I even own a truck, there is no help for me.
does it need to be bled once replaced??? or just replace it?
With the heater on full and all tanks filled to the correct level run the engine with the radiator cap off, topping up as needed when level drops, then when the fluid starts to push come out of the filler hole with no air put cap on and it should be good, BUT I always check it after a drive and it is safe to remove the cap.
For me the vacuum hose you took off its completely destroyed. Looking for videos that have how to replace it. From the heating valve control to the firewall.. any suggestions? For a ford explorer 07
If I understand correctly the problem you have, you will have to get under the dash on the passenger side to locate the other end and take a piece of what you find to a auto spares shop and get a length of that hose. Sorry I cannot be of much more help.
@@jagvette1 yeah good point.. That hose looks like a challenge to replace . Do you know any you videos? . Can't seem to find one..
Check in the glove compartment to the heater core.
Hi man!! Thank you for the video. I have a 2003 Explorer but I have a question, my heater valve is a 2 port which hose is this? The inlet or the outlet? And in Which direction should the antifreeze flow? Because I noticed that the valve has an arrow on it like if the valve is directional. Thank you so much.
OK without seeing what you have it’s very hard to guess all I can say is that the flow must go into the heater matrix and come out from it in all honesty I cannot imagine it makes a difference as long as it flows through it.
Unless there is something I am missing but it’s really hard to help you without actually seeing everything.
So please do take my comments with a pinch of salt.
Usually the water pump will push water into the heater matrix and then it will return.
I’m really sorry I can’t be much more help but without seeing it it is difficult to give you a definitive answer.
Arrow should be pointing to the fire wall.
Check the old one before you take it off.
Arrow faces the fire wall. Check the old one.
Did someone put solvent of some sort in the coolant expansion tank?
haven't got a clue could just be the vehicle has 346000 on the clock
I need help mine hear it's not working at all
Is the valve not working or you just have no heat ?
If it’s the valve could be it’s stuck , the diaphragm inside is defective OR you are not getting vacuum. Also make sure the hoses are connected the correct way around.
If no heat but valve operates you may have an air lock in the heater matrix or the matrix may be clogged, try flushing the heater matrix by removing heater hoses and flush through with garden hose.
Wd40 ruines plastic and rubber
This a very simple job
Ford junk
ford explorer jagoff! not exploder