I think getting bigger coolant reservoir to get rid of air in the engine and radiator could help. What could also help would be moving the radiator further from the engine so it doest absorb heat from it and it would improve airflow behind the fan. Btw thanks for another amazing video
You can tell when the forbidden fruit drink turns into a forbidden fruit smoothie!😆Not sure of the coolant passage design but could build up air pockets in the heads and radiator. If you have it properly bled, should be solid even with cavitation of the wp. I like the idea of a larger reservoir or even better a large swirl pot. More coolant = more cooling capacity. EK used to make copper pc radiators in multi row configs. Not sure if they do anymore. I loved the mechanical fan. If you wanted something with more CFM or higher static pressure, google Bgears b-blaster.. theyre loud though.
Mecanic here, my first advice would be that the fluid reservoir need to be sealed because pressure is related to boiling temperature so by adding pressure to your system (the water boiling into steam) your boiling temp is gonna rise (water gonna boil at 110~120°c instead of 100) and so your system will be more flexible for high reving for long time or for a smaller fan for your radiator and my second advice would be to purge you coolant system of any air because the air reduce the flow where the water will pass through just by sitting there, just by doing that you should get more water flow in your cooling system and so reduce the fan size and have a more efficient cooling system (you could do that by adding a purge screw where your cooling tube is highest and one on your radiator, also it will help to place the cooling reservoir at the highest point of the cooling system). hope it will help you
100% agreed. Besides upgrading cooling system, I'd dare suggest an oil cooling circuit + filter + more efficient oil pump. Last but not the least, I'd also suggest trying an Oxy- Hidrogen generator, (H2.O2 gas mix obtained from hydrolysis + 'normal' 90 to 100 octane fuel. It should burn quicker / cleaner & more efficient). Quite a few ppl actually using Oxy.Hydrogen / Hydrolysis generators in gasoline / Turbo Diesel & LPG car engines with good to excellent results, cleaner engines, less oil contaminaton, lower emissions, lower working temps + slight (7% - 14% increase) power increment. Nevertheless, it's an utterly amazing project and work. Many thanks congrats & Blessings!!.. 😌🙏🙏🙏🙏 (ICE powerplants should keep going on strong).
A Lamborghini doesn’t have 12 in 1 and it screams a Ferrari F12 has no 12 to 1 and it screams a Pagani Zonda has no 12 to 1 and it definitely screams. So where did you get your idea from???
@@antonfloor344 from a 12-1 exhaust system because they are real and they do make a engine SCREAM, yes you can make an engine scream without a 12-1 exhaust but it will still sound different then other setups but they are also very complicated to design and build so a V12 12-1 system, i highly doubt you can 3D print one reliably C4 Corvette with 8-1 system ruclips.net/video/Ruljou6rxnc/видео.html Scion FRS with 8-1 system ruclips.net/video/2aFcdsrgYu8/видео.html Completion of 8-1 and 6-1 systems ruclips.net/video/DRI9CLF53Vw/видео.html yes, the car's you mention do scream but its nothing compared to a x-1 headers
Change how your coolant reservoir is connected. It should be used as an expansion tank by being connected with a tee. Having the tank be inline is only causing air to be mixed with the coolant. You can see the air get pulled in when the engine is revved emptying the tank
The individual coil plugs are a lovely touch, be nice if it had individual injectors too, a full EFI setup on this would be amazing. Run it with an aftermarket ECU and a heavier flywheel, easily get that idle RPM significantly lower and more top end power :)
@@suryabejibun I think you've covered it - I don't think any aftermarket ECU is fast enough to catch a stall on an engine that small with such a (relatively) light flywheel :) (Sorry, additional context here, I do a *lot* of work with Link G4+ / G4X ECUs and even I've noticed you've gotta be more.. proactive about catching stalls the smaller the engine is, you can definitely "feel" a difference between a 2000cc I4 and a 6200cc V8 and the latter is easier to compensate for, so it stands to reason that a _50cc_ motor is gonna be quite challenging! 😁😁)
3 things I noticed. 1 you need a bigger coolant reservoir and a baffle to stop it from shooting upwards. 2 the fan size isn't the problem you need a fan that can do pressure not necessarily flow. 3 the exhaust manifolds reduce down way too much, looks like it goes down at the outlet to practically a one cylinder size so it has too much back pressure. Anyways hope it helps, great video, thanks for the hard work!
Fantastic video. The way this thing revs is spectacular. The most impressive is how smooth it revs. Really shows how balanced a V12 really is. Can’t wait to see what you do with it next
Really cool. Sounds great with the headers. As mentioned by others, bigger coolant reservoir is absolutely needed. There's barely any surge capacity in it for when the revs climb and the exiting coolant sloshes around creating aeration in the reservoir directly over the inlet, getting sucked into the water pump, and then frothed into a milkshake, which then becomes a feedback loop. Also, rad inlet & outlet ports should be on top, will make bleeding and keeping air out of the end tanks easier (thereby increasing cooling capacity by keeping as much coolant in the rad), as well as minimizing chances for air pockets to grow in the end tanks that sit there waiting to get purged when coolant flow increases under high revs (this is probably one of the contributing factors to why the tiny reservoir you have now keeps overflowing; air is being ingested and stored in the system, displacing coolant. So... when is the electronic fuel injection system being installed with ITBs and velocity stacks? You know that's the next logical step now that electronic ignition is done ;) Great videos, love watching!
These little engines self destruct under high workloads. The crank'll snap first then rods will break if you make that stronger. See on youtube, people have tried model engines to power bicycles, always ends the same.
I'm sure there are lots of comments on how to make more power, but just by looking at how this thing idles, it might be worth making the flywheel heavier so that you can bring down the idle speed without the engine cutting out.
@@mozer30 I'm sure it would add stress, but the amount of radial load is insignificant on a steel crank of any size, especially when you consider scaling up and seeing how every car has a fairly heavy flywheel from the factory. If this crank does break from something as little as a few extra ounces, that might give some insight as to the rest of some future upgrades and how they could affect the engine.
Sounds amazing. Definitely need to address the coolant reservoir. A swirl tank to help separate the water and air would be good, as well as a taller reservoir. If you could let the coolant build some positive pressure it would help minimize bubbles. Also you can try a product like Redline Water Wetter which may also help. Should only need that and distilled water.
Here in Italy the highway code provides that mopeds are two-wheeled vehicles with an engine of less than 48 cc such that there is no requirement for a license to be able to drive them, apart from the age of over 14 (the car license and motorcycles can only be obtained after the age of 18) We are therefore talking about motor vehicles with engines comparable in displacement to your V12 (if I understood correctly, a 50 cc) from my memories, however, the carburettor had a larger air intake hole than that of the V12, in fact usually the carburettor was a "Dell'Orto SHA 14/12" with a 14mm intake duct and 12mm diffuser. it is true that we are comparing a four-stroke V12 with a two-stroke (48cc) but the carburettor of the V12 seems small to me to allow the full power of the V12 to be developed. Another thing I noticed in your video is the presence of bubbles and cavitations in the cooling pipes when you are at high rpm, this brings air into the circuit and therefore could reduce its efficiency, if by chance you have it around the house I would change it also the radiator. Finally, returning to the first sentence of this post, I would like to see the V12 applied to a moped, I think it would provide some nice surprises
I would suggest doing a vacuum fill of the coolant system to try and minimise the trapped air. I also think that the return path should be sealed with a separate expansion vessel mounted above the highest fluid level in the radiator.
This engine still blows me away. The move from distributor ignition to electronic ignition has really helped smooth it out and get it's response but it's changed the characteristic of the engine a little too, it's more into 80s Group C Jaguar V12 Le Mans car type of engine now :) It's cool that they designed and let you metal print the exhaust manifolds, but I can't help but look at the pipe diameter and think that after combining 6 cylinders together it looks a little bit narrow at the exit. I'm not an exhaust engineer however, that might be deliberate.
The cylinders never fire at the same time, they're always staggered, so theres never 2 or more cylinders worth of 'puffs' going through the branch at any one time. It actually tends to help the smooth running of an engine having the slugs of combustion gasses passing through at equal spacings
i would love to see another project get a supercharger in the future :) you think that rpm would drive enough boost through a centrifugal system to be more noticeable than when you last tried one?
Might have a chance at this scale, because turbo machinery tends to worse the smaller it gets. So the larger supercharger that this thing would need, might produce some results. There's people that got a couple of PSi out of 3d printed superchargers/centrifucal superchargers.
Like others have said, the bubbles in the coolant is the main overheating problem. The water pump is losing a lot of efficiency and the heat transfer is severely reduced. A pressurized system would probably improve things too but I would start with the bubbles.
Man, it runs so much better with the coil on plug design! I think you may need to set up a pressurized cooling system to really get the most out of it. Too much cavitation otherwise causing the pump not to flow as well. Can't wait to see this in a project car. I wonder if Denny from 'Dennis Dempsey's Out of Control' channel got in on this upgrade? I'll have to check him out and see.... Nice work on the fan stuff!😉 *EDIT:* I saw where Chuan Qi is working on a 4? speed trans and clutch setup for these. He's still working out the bugs, but it looks awesome!😄👍👍
mann... i love to read all the comments.. all with professional background giving their own perspective on improving the engine.. it looks like a team discussion.. i'll love to read all the comments on this video hopefully sir soon enough one day you able to build an engine top tier kind of type just with the help of other subscribers.. this channel rocks.. R&D world wide.. keep it up sir
Excellent content. As many others have mentioned a closed system and elevating what should be an overflow can might help out. Great work as always. BTW the throttle response is amazing and it sounds like a ripper.
Absolutely amazing! I agree with what some others have said. I don't know much about cooling combustion engines. But I do know for a water cooled computer, air in the loop is a big no, no. A bigger reservoir allowing constant flow of coolant and no air may be beneficial. Awesome video!
Another thing not many people talked about, when designing radiator ducts it's very important to consider flow separation, you want the walls curved and smooth. When 3d printing then, make sure to make a thicker wall and fine sand it.
I agree with all the comments about needing a bigger reservoir for the coolant. You also need a sealed system that can withstand the pressure of the coolant system at operating temps (180°F - 190°F). The air that's trapped and is continuously sucked into the system while you're revving it is creating little pockets of extremely hot air which is in turn passing that heat along to the coolant and so on and so forth. That's a badass little engine though.
I would love to see one of these hooked up to a dummy load, even a BLDC drone motor with the three leads shorted together would probably work to give it a decent load. In addition, a contra-rotating delta fan would be great for this, 80mm but a lot thicker than a normal case fan, I recommend fan grilles too for your safety ;) I use Delta GFC0812DS's Great documentation of these engines as well as your craftsmanship.
Love NA V12! My Aventador V12 revved beyond 5k rpm exponentially quick to just over 8k rpm (max over 8.5k rpm) screams and howls with powerful sound pressure resonance like an F1 engine. Of course mine is fitted with an aftermarket valved exhaust system and test pipes, tuned ECU too.
Needed to add more coolant as it idled to fill in the air bubbles. Water cooling radiators arent going to perform all too well if there's too much air entrained into the coolant. Also, bigger reservoir; I would recommend you make one out of metal pipe as a water-cooling reservoir proper (typically made of acetylene or other form of hard plastic) would not last at those temperatures.
@@AndysAdventureRides mhm have too look if 2strokestuffing did use a cvt but the chance is high since he uses them quite often (well with 50ccm the advantages ar too obvious) he actually tryed and riped a crankshaft In half Edit : found the video ruclips.net/video/EgKsu2zs2EM/видео.htmlsi=-FtJNFM6jluPOjtS Ehm he did use a chain link reduction too a gearbox so the cvt question still sands
Great work as always. To further improve cooling you could pressurise the circuit to avoid steam in the system with a spring valve on the cap. A bigger expansion vase would help too.
@@Paintballnerd20yes but a block, minature v12's range between 3000€ to 5500€ (did only a very quick research, might fight one cheaper, might fine one more expensive) and irl v12's cost 15k€ + (looked at a VERY damaged ferarri 360, could be that its not even working)
The skill this man has and the tools are amazing if he has all this in his shop id say he probably does work like this or can making any type of part you could ever need for larger maybe real full size engines i.e car, truck etc. What I would love to see is him build a diesel mini engine like these that would be amazing a mini smoker and the whole engine would be a different build needing glow plugs instead of spark plugs and such plus if he put it in his off road rock crawler R/c car it would have the torq to pull up those crubs his engines sometime have if the clutch could handle it just a thought !
Its not a fan problem, you don't have a thermostat in the block. the thermostat restricts the flow allowing more time for the coolant in the rad to cool off. what's happening is the coolant is cycling so fast that it doesn't have a chance to dissipate the heat in the radiator so it starts to boil off. Maybe there's a way to do a remote thermostat but that's what's needed if you are intending to do any extended or high rev use.
Let me help you, put a fan on front of engine pully so it pulls air over the engine with shroud for safety of course and put the radiator with it's electric fan in another location anywhere but not blowing more heat on the engine. You need to remember in a car you're going down the road and outside air is being forced in through the engine compartment while driving. But if you sit in your car just racing the engine not going anywhere it will eventually overheat that is why you see in a lot tune shops they have fans in front of the car blowing air in. I absolutely love the video though, and I would give it two thumbs up if it had another thumbs up to click on.
Nice video I always enjoy watching. Only one thing that I can add as to why the engine is getting hot. Try slowing the water flow down going through the radiator. When I was racing heat was always a big problem, so we kept the fluid in the radiator longer which allowed it to cool and lower the temperature of the engine. I also noticed several comments about how much air was flowing through the hoses, that is a problem itself.
the throttle response and sound on that thing is nuts....reminds me of 13 years ago when i was discovering the "Modellmotor" miniature 87cc v12 by Ralf Drendel.....only you can buy this one
How nice that you're using a pc radiator , early watercooling days we pc builders would use car heat exchangers for pc radiators. The circle is complete :D
So glad ive found your channel, used to love the builds you would post on retrorides so very long ago, so pleased to see you are still as creative, your attention to detail is stunning !!
It needs a larger reservoir so it has no chance of pulling in air, and for it to be pressurized to raise the boiling point. But that is freaking cool. It sounds, and basically is a mini F1 engine from back in the v12 days.
I’d like to see this mounted to a custom Road bike with a 6 speed gearbox and decent suspension to accommodate the bumpy roads here in the U.S. I think that would be absolutely inspiring. Amazing work by the way.
This thing seems to run really well and maybe puts out useable power. Usually the fancy model engines seem to barely run and can't handle throttle without fading.
Mate you had to make from the beginning a smaller diameter pulley for the fan...at least a 1:2 ratio. It sounds so so smooth... In my opinion, you should: 1) a much heavy flywheel to severely drop the idle rpm 2) try to study to creat a muffler that deletes the high pitch noises and get a better low pitch high bass sound. 3) 3 carburators!! Cheers!
Damn that's cool, just a suggestion, the computer water cooling industry has put a lot of technology into water cooling computers, if you haven't already they have some great radiators reservoir's and fans and such.
That radiator is good for about 100-125W to around 80-90C running temp in a PC with that fan. The engine won't be making full heat load all the time so that size radiator is probably OK, however having extra coolant and having the coolant under a pressure cap will make a big difference in how easily it boil over. 2-4 PSI will give you some extra head room but you'll need clamps and better hoses.
Part of your cooling issues is the system is not sealed. It needs to build pressure. The higher pressure will keep the coolant from boiling. adding a pressure relief cap to your reservoir prevent over pressure and stop the coolant from boiling.
In my past race car experience I have found that placing a flow restrictor in the coolant system slows down the speed of the coolant circulation to allow the coolant to remain in the radiator longer therefore cooling better.
Put clamps on your hoses and add more coolant so it builds pressure. You can see steam in the lines when it gets hot. Pressure will cause water to boil at higher temps
As others have said, need to pressurise cooling system. No pressure she boils much lower, and when it boils the vapour is displacing water in the radiator, vapour is a poor heat conductor, causing over heating. Great vid as always
The headers look very restrictive, especially at the collector. You need a larger reservoir to get rid of the aeration in the coolant. That'll help with the temps dramatically.
Needs a bigger coolant reservoir to get rid of the air in the system.
Coolant reservoir from a scooter? Like mbk aerox 😊
Needs a swirl pot
Yup, definitely way too many bubbles trapped in the loop. Tanks the efficiency of the coolant a lot.
Maybe even a vortex air remover.
and maybe somehow do a pressurized system, as that should also improve the system
I think getting bigger coolant reservoir to get rid of air in the engine and radiator could help. What could also help would be moving the radiator further from the engine so it doest absorb heat from it and it would improve airflow behind the fan. Btw thanks for another amazing video
I was about to say it, you can see the coolant getting aerated in the hoses
also the pc radiator might have air in it still as well they don't like to bleed unless the pipes are both facing upwards
Word
yup... the air pocket alone could be why its over heating
You can tell when the forbidden fruit drink turns into a forbidden fruit smoothie!😆Not sure of the coolant passage design but could build up air pockets in the heads and radiator. If you have it properly bled, should be solid even with cavitation of the wp. I like the idea of a larger reservoir or even better a large swirl pot. More coolant = more cooling capacity. EK used to make copper pc radiators in multi row configs. Not sure if they do anymore. I loved the mechanical fan. If you wanted something with more CFM or higher static pressure, google Bgears b-blaster.. theyre loud though.
Mecanic here, my first advice would be that the fluid reservoir need to be sealed because pressure is related to boiling temperature so by adding pressure to your system (the water boiling into steam) your boiling temp is gonna rise (water gonna boil at 110~120°c instead of 100) and so your system will be more flexible for high reving for long time or for a smaller fan for your radiator and my second advice would be to purge you coolant system of any air because the air reduce the flow where the water will pass through just by sitting there, just by doing that you should get more water flow in your cooling system and so reduce the fan size and have a more efficient cooling system (you could do that by adding a purge screw where your cooling tube is highest and one on your radiator, also it will help to place the cooling reservoir at the highest point of the cooling system). hope it will help you
I'm not sure those flexible tube fittings could handle that much pressure, and upgrading from those flexible tubing to hard line sounds like a pain.
Tell that to the 6.0 powerstroke.
I've never met a mechanic that isn't completely fking useless.
@@pixiepaws99Says more about you than mechanics 😂
100% agreed. Besides upgrading cooling system, I'd dare suggest an oil cooling circuit + filter + more efficient oil pump. Last but not the least, I'd also suggest trying an Oxy- Hidrogen generator, (H2.O2 gas mix obtained from hydrolysis + 'normal' 90 to 100 octane fuel. It should burn quicker / cleaner & more efficient). Quite a few ppl actually using Oxy.Hydrogen / Hydrolysis generators in gasoline / Turbo Diesel & LPG car engines with good to excellent results, cleaner engines, less oil contaminaton, lower emissions, lower working temps + slight (7% - 14% increase) power increment. Nevertheless, it's an utterly amazing project and work.
Many thanks congrats & Blessings!!.. 😌🙏🙏🙏🙏
(ICE powerplants should keep going on strong).
You should design a 12-1 header system. That thing would absolutely scream with one.
and equal length?
y e s@@shize9ine
A Lamborghini doesn’t have 12 in 1 and it screams a Ferrari F12 has no 12 to 1 and it screams a Pagani Zonda has no 12 to 1 and it definitely screams. So where did you get your idea from???
@antonfloor344 youve obviously never heard a 12 to 1 exhaust
@@antonfloor344 from a 12-1 exhaust system because they are real and they do make a engine SCREAM, yes you can make an engine scream without a 12-1 exhaust but it will still sound different then other setups
but they are also very complicated to design and build so a V12 12-1 system, i highly doubt you can 3D print one reliably
C4 Corvette with 8-1 system ruclips.net/video/Ruljou6rxnc/видео.html
Scion FRS with 8-1 system ruclips.net/video/2aFcdsrgYu8/видео.html
Completion of 8-1 and 6-1 systems ruclips.net/video/DRI9CLF53Vw/видео.html
yes, the car's you mention do scream but its nothing compared to a x-1 headers
Change how your coolant reservoir is connected. It should be used as an expansion tank by being connected with a tee. Having the tank be inline is only causing air to be mixed with the coolant. You can see the air get pulled in when the engine is revved emptying the tank
The individual coil plugs are a lovely touch, be nice if it had individual injectors too, a full EFI setup on this would be amazing.
Run it with an aftermarket ECU and a heavier flywheel, easily get that idle RPM significantly lower and more top end power :)
That would be some insane engineering
Boo to heavy flywheel
@@zqzj yeah agree but for something this small, it would probably be necessary
you don't need heavier flywheel if you have fast enough ECU and fast enough throttle body
@@suryabejibun I think you've covered it - I don't think any aftermarket ECU is fast enough to catch a stall on an engine that small with such a (relatively) light flywheel :)
(Sorry, additional context here, I do a *lot* of work with Link G4+ / G4X ECUs and even I've noticed you've gotta be more.. proactive about catching stalls the smaller the engine is, you can definitely "feel" a difference between a 2000cc I4 and a 6200cc V8 and the latter is easier to compensate for, so it stands to reason that a _50cc_ motor is gonna be quite challenging! 😁😁)
This is the kind of escalation I want to see
Imagine putting this on a small scooter, like an old honda elite 50cc and putting a v12 badge on it. Lol
@@thebarkingmouse This small motor cant handle torque. The crank is too tiny.
@@pascha4527super short ratio gearbox go brrr😂
I'm waiting for the finished go-kart/motorcycle/car
The exhaust was the key for the sound!! Great video Q.
3 things I noticed. 1 you need a bigger coolant reservoir and a baffle to stop it from shooting upwards. 2 the fan size isn't the problem you need a fan that can do pressure not necessarily flow. 3 the exhaust manifolds reduce down way too much, looks like it goes down at the outlet to practically a one cylinder size so it has too much back pressure. Anyways hope it helps, great video, thanks for the hard work!
Fantastic video. The way this thing revs is spectacular. The most impressive is how smooth it revs. Really shows how balanced a V12 really is. Can’t wait to see what you do with it next
Really cool. Sounds great with the headers.
As mentioned by others, bigger coolant reservoir is absolutely needed. There's barely any surge capacity in it for when the revs climb and the exiting coolant sloshes around creating aeration in the reservoir directly over the inlet, getting sucked into the water pump, and then frothed into a milkshake, which then becomes a feedback loop.
Also, rad inlet & outlet ports should be on top, will make bleeding and keeping air out of the end tanks easier (thereby increasing cooling capacity by keeping as much coolant in the rad), as well as minimizing chances for air pockets to grow in the end tanks that sit there waiting to get purged when coolant flow increases under high revs (this is probably one of the contributing factors to why the tiny reservoir you have now keeps overflowing; air is being ingested and stored in the system, displacing coolant.
So... when is the electronic fuel injection system being installed with ITBs and velocity stacks? You know that's the next logical step now that electronic ignition is done ;)
Great videos, love watching!
your recording quality and your work is amazing bro please keep this up love this
Agree 100%!
I would love to see you make a dyno for these engines. I know you made a flywheel dyno before, but have you thought of a water pump dyno?
These little engines self destruct under high workloads. The crank'll snap
first then rods will break if you make that stronger. See on youtube, people
have tried model engines to power bicycles, always ends the same.
A small scale dynamometer is the solution .
@@Jeff44 I'd love a good 50-80cc v8 with beefier parts to handle the load of me on my bicycle.
Till then I'm stuck with a water pump engine.
Just ran into this video from a car magazine (Motor 1) and I don't have the words to express the amount of talent this guy has..... WOW!
Try pressurizing the coolant system to keep boiling controlled. Build a 15 PSI relief valve that leads from the pressurized portion to the reservoir.
You'll pop the rad if you put it under this much pressure. That's a PC water cooling rad, it can handle maybe a 10th of that.
I'm sure there are lots of comments on how to make more power, but just by looking at how this thing idles, it might be worth making the flywheel heavier so that you can bring down the idle speed without the engine cutting out.
Would that not place more stress on the crankshaft?
@@mozer30 I'm sure it would add stress, but the amount of radial load is insignificant on a steel crank of any size, especially when you consider scaling up and seeing how every car has a fairly heavy flywheel from the factory. If this crank does break from something as little as a few extra ounces, that might give some insight as to the rest of some future upgrades and how they could affect the engine.
I personally prefer less rotational inertia and a higher idle in performance applications
@@mozer30a heavier flywheel would actually be easier on the crank when under load, like driving instead of running on a bench
Sounds amazing. Definitely need to address the coolant reservoir. A swirl tank to help separate the water and air would be good, as well as a taller reservoir. If you could let the coolant build some positive pressure it would help minimize bubbles. Also you can try a product like Redline Water Wetter which may also help. Should only need that and distilled water.
Here in Italy the highway code provides that mopeds are two-wheeled vehicles with an engine of less than 48 cc such that there is no requirement for a license to be able to drive them, apart from the age of over 14 (the car license and motorcycles can only be obtained after the age of 18)
We are therefore talking about motor vehicles with engines comparable in displacement to your V12 (if I understood correctly, a 50 cc)
from my memories, however, the carburettor had a larger air intake hole than that of the V12, in fact usually the carburettor was a "Dell'Orto SHA 14/12" with a 14mm intake duct and 12mm diffuser. it is true that we are comparing a four-stroke V12 with a two-stroke (48cc) but the carburettor of the V12 seems small to me to allow the full power of the V12 to be developed.
Another thing I noticed in your video is the presence of bubbles and cavitations in the cooling pipes when you are at high rpm, this brings air into the circuit and therefore could reduce its efficiency, if by chance you have it around the house I would change it also the radiator.
Finally, returning to the first sentence of this post, I would like to see the V12 applied to a moped, I think it would provide some nice surprises
Do you think the air in the cooling system is negatively affecting the engine temp?
Seems like it needs a larger coolant reservoir with additional coolant to help minimize that, although probably also getting cavitation at high RPM...
Noticed the foaming. Wonder if it starts from the overflow tank being mounted on the engine so that the vibration is causing the foam.
I would suggest doing a vacuum fill of the coolant system to try and minimise the trapped air. I also think that the return path should be sealed with a separate expansion vessel mounted above the highest fluid level in the radiator.
@@johnkelley7978 I don't think that any pump cavitation would be visible in the pipes.
This engine still blows me away. The move from distributor ignition to electronic ignition has really helped smooth it out and get it's response but it's changed the characteristic of the engine a little too, it's more into 80s Group C Jaguar V12 Le Mans car type of engine now :)
It's cool that they designed and let you metal print the exhaust manifolds, but I can't help but look at the pipe diameter and think that after combining 6 cylinders together it looks a little bit narrow at the exit. I'm not an exhaust engineer however, that might be deliberate.
The cylinders never fire at the same time, they're always staggered, so theres never 2 or more cylinders worth of 'puffs' going through the branch at any one time. It actually tends to help the smooth running of an engine having the slugs of combustion gasses passing through at equal spacings
i would love to see another project get a supercharger in the future :)
you think that rpm would drive enough boost through a centrifugal system to be more noticeable than when you last tried one?
Might have a chance at this scale, because turbo machinery tends to worse the smaller it gets. So the larger supercharger that this thing would need, might produce some results. There's people that got a couple of PSi out of 3d printed superchargers/centrifucal superchargers.
A roots charger.. As more it revs as more it pumps
Like others have said, the bubbles in the coolant is the main overheating problem. The water pump is losing a lot of efficiency and the heat transfer is severely reduced. A pressurized system would probably improve things too but I would start with the bubbles.
Man, it runs so much better with the coil on plug design! I think you may need to set up a pressurized cooling system to really get the most out of it. Too much cavitation otherwise causing the pump not to flow as well. Can't wait to see this in a project car. I wonder if Denny from 'Dennis Dempsey's Out of Control' channel got in on this upgrade? I'll have to check him out and see.... Nice work on the fan stuff!😉 *EDIT:* I saw where Chuan Qi is working on a 4? speed trans and clutch setup for these. He's still working out the bugs, but it looks awesome!😄👍👍
mann... i love to read all the comments.. all with professional background giving their own perspective on improving the engine.. it looks like a team discussion.. i'll love to read all the comments on this video
hopefully sir soon enough one day you able to build an engine top tier kind of type just with the help of other subscribers.. this channel rocks.. R&D world wide.. keep it up sir
Přesně 👍👍👍👍👍
Excellent content. As many others have mentioned a closed system and elevating what should be an overflow can might help out. Great work as always. BTW the throttle response is amazing and it sounds like a ripper.
Absolutely amazing! I agree with what some others have said. I don't know much about cooling combustion engines. But I do know for a water cooled computer, air in the loop is a big no, no. A bigger reservoir allowing constant flow of coolant and no air may be beneficial. Awesome video!
Awesome sounding engine and that throttle response is something else!
Another thing not many people talked about, when designing radiator ducts it's very important to consider flow separation, you want the walls curved and smooth. When 3d printing then, make sure to make a thicker wall and fine sand it.
V12 is pretty nice but i'm still waiting for Johny to get his hands on inline 6 especially if it would be dohc. Mini RC Supra would be so cool.
100%. I was just gonna comment about an I6
I agree with all the comments about needing a bigger reservoir for the coolant. You also need a sealed system that can withstand the pressure of the coolant system at operating temps (180°F - 190°F). The air that's trapped and is continuously sucked into the system while you're revving it is creating little pockets of extremely hot air which is in turn passing that heat along to the coolant and so on and so forth.
That's a badass little engine though.
I would love to see one of these hooked up to a dummy load, even a BLDC drone motor with the three leads shorted together would probably work to give it a decent load.
In addition, a contra-rotating delta fan would be great for this, 80mm but a lot thicker than a normal case fan, I recommend fan grilles too for your safety ;) I use Delta GFC0812DS's
Great documentation of these engines as well as your craftsmanship.
It will stall at once with a drone motor connected to it. Those engines have no power at all. Barely enough to turn themselves over.
Love NA V12! My Aventador V12 revved beyond 5k rpm exponentially quick to just over 8k rpm (max over 8.5k rpm) screams and howls with powerful sound pressure resonance like an F1 engine. Of course mine is fitted with an aftermarket valved exhaust system and test pipes, tuned ECU too.
brother now u must slap a turbo on there!
5:30, please make a miniature gas pump instead, with hoses and meter readings etc hahaha, would be quality!
Just my opinion but a set of equal length headers would make this thing scream like a formula 1 car.
Needed to add more coolant as it idled to fill in the air bubbles. Water cooling radiators arent going to perform all too well if there's too much air entrained into the coolant. Also, bigger reservoir; I would recommend you make one out of metal pipe as a water-cooling reservoir proper (typically made of acetylene or other form of hard plastic) would not last at those temperatures.
Putting this on a scooter or mini bike would be incredible
Only with a reduction between it because well it would be sad too destroy the crank and other internals
@@TheLtVoss XD
@@TheLtVoss I wonder if a cvt system like what comes on a scooter would keep it from tearing itself apart
@@AndysAdventureRides mhm have too look if 2strokestuffing did use a cvt but the chance is high since he uses them quite often (well with 50ccm the advantages ar too obvious)
he actually tryed and riped a crankshaft In half
Edit : found the video ruclips.net/video/EgKsu2zs2EM/видео.htmlsi=-FtJNFM6jluPOjtS
Ehm he did use a chain link reduction too a gearbox so the cvt question still sands
@@TheLtVoss incredible thank you for the reply 🙏
Great work as always. To further improve cooling you could pressurise the circuit to avoid steam in the system with a spring valve on the cap. A bigger expansion vase would help too.
Holy crap that thing is responsive.
How much power does it make? (if at all possible to measure)
at least 4hp, 50cc can move around a scooter
@@skidhvh 50cc doesn't say much, some can make closer to 50hp NA, some make less than 1hp.
@@linusgk5042 50cc? you're trippin. even if you juice it to the maximum its not gonna make more than 15-20hp, even at 15k rpm
Bruh 1hp per cc is impossible
@@skidhvh theoretical maximum is over 500hp. Many 50cc over 20hp have been made.
11:48 You can see that the coolant coming from the radiator is significantly cooler! Good job!!
sounds like an Aventador
wish I had the knowledge and tools necessary to create something as masterful as this. This is awesome 👍🏿
Why don't you make a big engine
Sometimes budget has to be upgraded
@@SmilingAi you do realize these little engines about cost the same as a smaller engine block
@@Paintballnerd20yes but a block, minature v12's range between 3000€ to 5500€ (did only a very quick research, might fight one cheaper, might fine one more expensive) and irl v12's cost 15k€ + (looked at a VERY damaged ferarri 360, could be that its not even working)
The skill this man has and the tools are amazing if he has all this in his shop id say he probably does work like this or can making any type of part you could ever need for larger maybe real full size engines i.e car, truck etc. What I would love to see is him build a diesel mini engine like these that would be amazing a mini smoker and the whole engine would be a different build needing glow plugs instead of spark plugs and such plus if he put it in his off road rock crawler R/c car it would have the torq to pull up those crubs his engines sometime have if the clutch could handle it just a thought !
Its not a fan problem, you don't have a thermostat in the block. the thermostat restricts the flow allowing more time for the coolant in the rad to cool off. what's happening is the coolant is cycling so fast that it doesn't have a chance to dissipate the heat in the radiator so it starts to boil off. Maybe there's a way to do a remote thermostat but that's what's needed if you are intending to do any extended or high rev use.
7:15 Noctua fan! I know that much, lol! I am a PC guy but I love your level of engineering! 😁😁😁
Let me help you, put a fan on front of engine pully so it pulls air over the engine with shroud for safety of course and put the radiator with it's electric fan in another location anywhere but not blowing more heat on the engine. You need to remember in a car you're going down the road and outside air is being forced in through the engine compartment while driving. But if you sit in your car just racing the engine not going anywhere it will eventually overheat that is why you see in a lot tune shops they have fans in front of the car blowing air in. I absolutely love the video though, and I would give it two thumbs up if it had another thumbs up to click on.
The sound difference once you put the headers on is amazing
I love how much it sounded like early video game engine sounds at 10:27
You have got to make a drag RC car with this, bro. Just freakin awesome
Никогда прежде не встречал в комментариях столько умных людей 👍👍👍
P.S.Первый раз пишу комментарий комментаторам 😄
It sounds like a tiny Ferrari with the manifolds on. That's awesome!
No way n-o way. This is unreal. Just incredible skills. Miniature v 12 ? What ???
with the manifolds it sounds like all the engines from Gran Turismo, absolutely love it.
Nice video I always enjoy watching. Only one thing that I can add as to why the engine is getting hot. Try slowing the water flow down going through the radiator. When I was racing heat was always a big problem, so we kept the fluid in the radiator longer which allowed it to cool and lower the temperature of the engine. I also noticed several comments about how much air was flowing through the hoses, that is a problem itself.
The throttle response of this little screamer is insane!
the throttle response and sound on that thing is nuts....reminds me of 13 years ago when i was discovering the "Modellmotor" miniature 87cc v12 by Ralf Drendel.....only you can buy this one
How nice that you're using a pc radiator , early watercooling days we pc builders would use car heat exchangers for pc radiators. The circle is complete :D
So glad ive found your channel, used to love the builds you would post on retrorides so very long ago, so pleased to see you are still as creative, your attention to detail is stunning !!
It needs a larger reservoir so it has no chance of pulling in air, and for it to be pressurized to raise the boiling point. But that is freaking cool. It sounds, and basically is a mini F1 engine from back in the v12 days.
As someone who does FDM printing, metal 3d printing is so dang amazing.
1:48 your videos are usually so quiet and peaceful. This makes my teeth hurt.
I’d like to see this mounted to a custom Road bike with a 6 speed gearbox and decent suspension to accommodate the bumpy roads here in the U.S. I think that would be absolutely inspiring. Amazing work by the way.
Even the heat shrink on the ring terminals is perfect.
Those exhaust headers gave it a mean grumble growl. Fantastic what we can do with 3d printing now.
This thing seems to run really well and maybe puts out useable power. Usually the fancy model engines seem to barely run and can't handle throttle without fading.
This thing on a moped would be awesome
That’s really cool as a car guy dealing with this stuff daily
50cc v12 is insane, can't wait to watch the next engine progress.
That exhaust manifold is a work of art! It really is a thing of beauty. Awesome work and awesome video 👍
Seems somewhat restrictive. The exit pipe looks to be the same size as each cylinder.
The sound with the manifolds on is so good.
Now its time for a W16.
I was thinking that too! I’d like to see an micro H16 or a V16 like the old BRM Grand Prix cars.
I'd love to see the R/C car you plan to install that wonderful little beast into.
This is engineering & fabrication mastery!
At 22seconds in, I'm already dreaming of that engine on a mini-bike of some sort. Probably a pocket rocket.
We're gonna need a bigger boat.
Mate you had to make from the beginning a smaller diameter pulley for the fan...at least a 1:2 ratio. It sounds so so smooth... In my opinion, you should:
1) a much heavy flywheel to severely drop the idle rpm
2) try to study to creat a muffler that deletes the high pitch noises and get a better low pitch high bass sound.
3) 3 carburators!!
Cheers!
Your work is absolutely incredible, I was speechless and the sound of the engine is wonderful
Damn that's cool, just a suggestion, the computer water cooling industry has put a lot of technology into water cooling computers, if you haven't already they have some great radiators reservoir's and fans and such.
I think this may be the best running engine you have shown off
Predicting the v16 right now
That radiator is good for about 100-125W to around 80-90C running temp in a PC with that fan. The engine won't be making full heat load all the time so that size radiator is probably OK, however having extra coolant and having the coolant under a pressure cap will make a big difference in how easily it boil over. 2-4 PSI will give you some extra head room but you'll need clamps and better hoses.
The sound after the headers is amazing! 😂 love ittt
I like the coil plug setup, that’s some clean work.
Make a larger double pass or multi pass radiator. Use dual fans. Bring wot operation's temperature down. Use a rev limiter.
There are really few things that make me proud of being part of human race... you are one of them. Thank you.
P.s. this is art
crazy engine!💪👍
I would like to install such an engine on my model of a crawler tractor🚜
Part of your cooling issues is the system is not sealed. It needs to build pressure. The higher pressure will keep the coolant from boiling. adding a pressure relief cap to your reservoir prevent over pressure and stop the coolant from boiling.
Was cool seeing with the thermal camera the difference between the hot and cool coolant tube
Very cool engine.Would love to see it installed in something and doing actual work.
In my past race car experience I have found that placing a flow restrictor in the coolant system slows down the speed of the coolant circulation to allow the coolant to remain in the radiator longer therefore cooling better.
Put clamps on your hoses and add more coolant so it builds pressure. You can see steam in the lines when it gets hot. Pressure will cause water to boil at higher temps
These little engines are so cool. I think the water pump creates too much cavitation. It sounds so smooth at high RPM.
…this baby V12 sounds like F1 racers from 90’s! Incredible!
10:49 😂😂😂😂 that is sick. What a unit this motor is
Damn, that thing screams! Build a miniature Lambo!
Beautiful art. You are a milling master! Engine sounded beautiful. Mufflers next?
It is interesting how the manifold split is 124 356. Sounds really good
As others have said, need to pressurise cooling system. No pressure she boils much lower, and when it boils the vapour is displacing water in the radiator, vapour is a poor heat conductor, causing over heating. Great vid as always
Very cool it’s only a matter of time before it’s running a Fueltech and has a blower on top.
The headers look very restrictive, especially at the collector. You need a larger reservoir to get rid of the aeration in the coolant. That'll help with the temps dramatically.