Great video. To help me use the polarscope I use the "Fluorescent Illuminator" which glows in the dark. You just shine a light on the illuminator for 20 seconds and it glows nicely making the reticle easy to read. It attaches to the front of the polarscope.
A tip I have to quickly get pointed towards Polaris, and if using a head like Acratech's Pan & Tilt, is that the head has degree markings for the tilt. Knowing your latitude, simply tilt the leveled head the same number of degrees as your latitude. Then pan the head north - this will make tracker slanted back towards the south for us here in the northern hemisphere. It should now be pretty close and ready to easily adjust to Polaris.
@@MarkSmithPdx yep, but again with a quality pan and tilt head (like the acratech or fluid heads on my custom tripods) it's really simple to angle the lazer in to Polaris by eyeballing it. 😉
Super, so informative. I have recently photographed the total eclipse, using a geared head for positioning, and that manual process was ok for following of the sun, but tracking the stars is a completely different level of complexity.
I have the old msm and polar scope. I agree its tricky to use, so i have gotten used to mounting the polar scope and then hold the laser up to the polar scope and shone it through the polar scope to get a rough alignment, and finish with the scope. Really nice to see the improvements especially the use of a headlight with the polar scope instead of the old barrery led. I will stick to the old msm as i dont use it enough tó upgrade. Thanks for the review
Thanks for the vid, I hadn't realised they had brought out a new version. I have the original version but think I'll look to upgrade as the Nomad does seem to be quite a bit more advanced. I don't use in camera noise reduction though, personally given the limited timings for the MWC in England I want to maximise my shooting and think the photo editing software around these days will do a better job.
@@SteveP_2426 it's a nice upgrade. Long exposure noise reduction is not doing what you think. That's high iso noise reduction which you should leave off and only impacts jpegs anyway. LENR takes two frames at the same heat, humidity and timing to see where the sensor has issues (hot pixels etc) in the dark slide and removes those imperfections in the raw data. It can be an image saver or at least a huge time saver as that's not software automated at this time. You have to zoom in and fix it pixel by pixel.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thanks for the clarification. I believe that function is on my R5 so will give it a go as my R5 does seem to give quite a few hot pixels when it has been shooting a while.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Hi Hudson, thanks for the LENR tip. Does this eliminate the need to shoot darks? Is it as good or better than creating darks? I have R5, R62 and 5Div but never used it. I used to use the HINR but found it's more economical time-wise to shoot darks. I usually shoot darks at the end of my session. Same amount of darks than lights for stacking. Thanks!
Hey Hudson, thanks for the video. One tip I was shown when focusing at night was to turn the Liveview into mono to eliminate the colour noise, I find it works well on a D850. Naturally turn it back to colour when shooting.
@@RaySweeting when you move to the Z system, you'll be able to see the milky way and the horizon in starlight view using either the LCD or the diopter adjusted viewfinder displayed in red along with the menus and playback to save your night vision, pinpoint focus on a star or snap focus automatically to infinity by turning the body off and back on with save focus position disabled. Pre-Z7 I used to prefocus my 14-24 AFS at dusk and gaffe tape the focus ring. Seems as far back as film now. You'll love the Z system for everything, but astro especially. :)
Hi Hudson. Thanks for the video. I will use my Nikon Z7 and NIKKOR Z 20mm f/1.8 S lens. I ordered the MSM (Yes, code Hudson worked) and from you the Acratech Ultimate Ball-Head. Your gear pdf recommends the Kirk Plate for MSM. This must be for the old MSM version because I cannot figure out where it is needed. Please advise. Thanks again.
Yeah, I thought I mentioned tha the new version comes with an integrated arca plate. I'll go remove that from the links. Sorry for any inconvienence. It's no longer needed. You're right.
Great video! Do you have a tutorial for the Star Adventurer GTi as well? I got the Star Adventurer tracker in March for the eclipse to use it with my 400mm + 1.4X . It worked well for that purpose but has been sitting in the closet ever since because, for some reason, I can not figure out how to set it up for nightscapes and tracking the MW. Can you please point me toward a tutorial like this just for the other tracker? Thank you, btw I followed your advice and got the Acratech Pano Head and Leveling Base for Panos. I love the setup.
I can't really do more than google that for you. I have a sky guider pro that I never use. I love the tiny size and ease of use of the MSM. I'd never use a tracker for the eclipse personally.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Yeah, I googled it. There are tons of videos for other trackers, e.g., the older model Star Adventurer 2i, but nothing comprehensive for the GTi. The eclipse got only a mention to explain why I bought this tracker (for its sturdiness to hold a longer lens) and not the Nomad, for example.
I was only able to afford the Nomad by itself. So, I will be using an assortment of gadgets to align it. Laser scope from my telescope, my phone apps, handheld laser. All will be mounted on 3d printed brackets of my own design. Hope it works.
Great Video Hudson! Thank you. I've been slow to get moving on the Nomad; Actually ordered it in March and it has sat for a while. What exactly are you leveling on the polar scope? I ask, because my unit did not come with the level on the polar scope. I ordered Basic Kit C (NOMAD + Pointer + Polar Scope). I have a note off to MSM asking them, but it appears the level is no longer included. It shows up on the photos if you go through them all - ONE photo remains with it - but none of the ordering options show a photo of the level. Many thanks! I'll keep you posted on MSM response.
Instead of adjusting the fluid head clamp's orientation, I keep the focusing rail in my fluid head and turn the fluid head 180 degrees, so that the tightening knob is facing away. I find that I can then use the focusing rail as a handle to make the final adjustments during polar alignment. When I sue the polar scope, I also use the right angle adapter on it, so that I don't have to get into a really awkward crouch to use the polar scope. In my limited testing so far, lousy clouds, I was able to track at 120 second on the Z6iii using both the 20 1.8 and 50 1.8 with only laser alignment.
@@CathySummers-z7g that's certainly a fine idea. I have no issue aligning without a handle, but sure. I'd just use the fluid heads video handle for that if needed though. ;) A right angle scope would be nice, but it's usually about 10 seconds of leaning down. so I don't feel a need to upgrade. Yep I've shot for years without the polar scope and it's been generally fine, but occasionally it's a little off and you need to fine tune. The scope really eliminates that.
@@DR-fy7qy yeah. I'm not a fan at all of that. I believe pan and tilt heads like I spec on my custom tripods are far better for general photgraghy. Particularly fluid heads. Using a good one in general use, obviates the need for a lesser quality, more frustrating head like that. It'll also blow your mind how much better it is.
thanks, great video, much appreciated! One question - why do you recommend long exposure NR = on? Do you feel that's better than DXO or other NR in post? Reason for asking of course is taking 2x as long for shots.
Common misconception. LENR is 100% different. It has nothing to do with noise you'd think of in a traditional sense. There's High ISO noise reduction (which only really works on Jpegs and is inadvisable) and then there is LENR (long exposure noise reduciton). That's designed to mitigate the inevitable pixel malfunctions in sensors exposing for longer periods. Hot or dead pixels pop up when doing long exposures and the way that LENR mitigates that is by recording a 2nd dark expsoure with no light on the sensor for the exact same time period and environmental conditions as the actual photo, recording the broken pixels and then averaging those pixels out of the RAW file. It can save hours of post production work editing hot pixels and dramatically imrpove your final results. Adobe's Denoise, ON1's NoNoise AI or DXO Pure RAW do nothing for hot pixels. It doubles your exposure time and I never use it until I have my composition, focus and expsosure dialed in, but for the final night shot, I ALWAYS use LENR.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto great thanks very much! will turn it on when ready to shoot (I did think that the AI denoise could deal with that type of pixel noise, ty for the correction (so to speak)). subscribed so will check out more of your videos / tutorials. thanks again.
I have been thinking about this device for MW use. My question concerns using the green laser in my area of NC. I have been told by authorities that this would bring a search of the dark beach area for the source and possible legal action. Is there any way to align the device without the laser? Thanks. A great instructional as usual. Wayne...NC
Really? That is super shocking. There's a million kids shining lasers around haphazardly these days. I'll bet a careful 10 second use would not get you in any trouble. It's very hard once it's dark to find polaris in a scope amongst all the stars. You're best bet would be blue hour as only the constellations appear, but it will still be tricky and you can't move or bump your rig after the light goes down. It'll be hours of waiting set up.
I may be able to shine a little light on this (Pardon the pun.). I used to work for NORAD and have dealt with countless "LASER Events". If you shine a LASER into the Flight Deck of an aircraft even accidentally, the pilot will report it to the FAA. The FAA will then immediately notify EVERY Law Enforcement Agency you can think of (FBI, Homeland Security, NORAD, State and Local Police etc.). If either the pilot or the co-pilot get illuminated, it is treated VERY seriously and may even be investigated as a possible Hostile Act. Pointing a LASER at an aircraft even by accident is a REALLY BAD and potentially life altering mistake. On the other hand, if you are careful to NOT point it at any aircraft, it probably won't draw any attention at all. If you do get anyone out to talk to you, it will likely just be to ask what you are doing pointing a LASER up into the night sky and that will likely be the end of it. Of course, I don't know your local laws, so you have to decide what will work best for you, but it is likely safe to say that if you don't draw attention, then nobody will even likely notice.
@@R.HogarthHudson and R. Hogarth for your replies. I live across the river, approximately 3 miles distance from my MW vantage point, which does make me nervous. That is my concern. Does anyone know what the output of the MSM laser is? How many mW?
Great video Hudson thanks. I do have a couple quick questions though: 1. You mentioned the Viltrox 16mm lens. I assume you have had a chance to try it out for astro by now, how do you like it or would you still recommend the Nikon Z 20mm f/1.8 S lens? 2. I have the "Gen 1" MSM, and it was great when I was shooting a Sony A7R3, but the Z8 is significantly bigger and more importantly heavier than the A7R3. Would you recommend upgrading to the NOMAD for the extra Load Capacity compared to the Gen 1 MSM with a relatively heavy camera like a Z8?
@@R.Hogarth love the Viltrox. The 20 S is still the best astro lens I've ever used, but the 16 1.8 isn't far behind in 2nd place. The original is fine with my Z9 and 14-24 S. I you just need that QS60 linked in the night section of my links for it. Www.hudsonhenry.com/atslinks
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Hudson thanks for the info on the Viltrox. That might become an option for me. I looked in the Night section, and couldn't find a "QS60". What am I looking for?
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thanks. I actually ordered one based on one of your previous ATS videos. I like that it not only locks in the Ball Head, but it also makes mounting it very quick.
For a while you were using leofoto stone bags which looked identical.. is there any reason you moved away from those stone bags? Also do you know what happened to lumalabs? Why did they close doors?
The main creative force at Luma got too stacked up with lucrative contract work to keep doing both. I had Desmond Photographic work with Leo to redesign thier bags to match his. Desmond is local to me and run by a great guy so I'm working directly with him on those.
Quick question- I’d be using my Nikon 7ii with the 14-24 2.8 and have a go-30 on a Gitzo 2542 but a little short of money now. Can the wedge take the place of the fluid head? I’m not doing any deep space just mw and night landscapes.
The wedge they sell introduces huge instability. Like a diving board. I tossed my sample in the trash. You just need Pan and tilt head for the base. Any decent one will DO.
A 200 - 400mm lens would probably be pretty close to the maximum weight capacity. You would have to check what your set-up weighs (including the ball head and everything after the part that rotates). Also, the longer the lens, the more precise you need to be on your alignment.
The value comes when you start to do many exposures over a long period of time. Especially if you use a full spectrum camera that is able to see infrared. When all the images are stacked and combined you are able to see far more detail than with a single exposure.
If you're not after the best results possible then that's fine. This video isn't for you. You can get images that will look great on a phone or small moniter at high iso with longer exposures than the newer NPF spot star guidelines for modern high resolution sensors (less than 8 seconds for 14mm full frame at 46mp). I did that for decades too, but my desire for large prints of night skies led me to stacking and then using a tracker and there's certainly no going back. Not by a mile. It's not very difficult with a bit of practice and the results are night and day different when it comes to quality. They just are. Particularly if you print or display at a large scale. In my Milky Way course I cover stacking too. You can get great printable results stacking too, but I find the post processing far more cumbersome and less satisfying than using a tracker in the field.
@@timfennell3380 best comment yet. Thanks for taking the time to explain, rather than discount my efforts as a novice (but with college degree in photography), as author has done. Much appreciated !
Great video. To help me use the polarscope I use the "Fluorescent Illuminator" which glows in the dark. You just shine a light on the illuminator for 20 seconds and it glows nicely making the reticle easy to read. It attaches to the front of the polarscope.
A tip I have to quickly get pointed towards Polaris, and if using a head like Acratech's Pan & Tilt, is that the head has degree markings for the tilt. Knowing your latitude, simply tilt the leveled head the same number of degrees as your latitude. Then pan the head north - this will make tracker slanted back towards the south for us here in the northern hemisphere. It should now be pretty close and ready to easily adjust to Polaris.
@@MarkSmithPdx yep, but again with a quality pan and tilt head (like the acratech or fluid heads on my custom tripods) it's really simple to angle the lazer in to Polaris by eyeballing it. 😉
Super, so informative.
I have recently photographed the total eclipse, using a geared head for positioning, and that manual process was ok for following of the sun, but tracking the stars is a completely different level of complexity.
I have the old msm and polar scope. I agree its tricky to use, so i have gotten used to mounting the polar scope and then hold the laser up to the polar scope and shone it through the polar scope to get a rough alignment, and finish with the scope. Really nice to see the improvements especially the use of a headlight with the polar scope instead of the old barrery led. I will stick to the old msm as i dont use it enough tó upgrade. Thanks for the review
Looks perfect for wide-angle stuff. I've got a Sky-Watcher which is good but it's a bit too big and clunky for treking with.
Thanks Hudson got one today from Move shoot Move. Its for Thailand this October adventure trip for 3 Months ,all the best Robert G. Scotland UK 😊
Thanks for the vid, I hadn't realised they had brought out a new version. I have the original version but think I'll look to upgrade as the Nomad does seem to be quite a bit more advanced. I don't use in camera noise reduction though, personally given the limited timings for the MWC in England I want to maximise my shooting and think the photo editing software around these days will do a better job.
@@SteveP_2426 it's a nice upgrade. Long exposure noise reduction is not doing what you think. That's high iso noise reduction which you should leave off and only impacts jpegs anyway. LENR takes two frames at the same heat, humidity and timing to see where the sensor has issues (hot pixels etc) in the dark slide and removes those imperfections in the raw data. It can be an image saver or at least a huge time saver as that's not software automated at this time. You have to zoom in and fix it pixel by pixel.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thanks for the clarification. I believe that function is on my R5 so will give it a go as my R5 does seem to give quite a few hot pixels when it has been shooting a while.
@@SteveP_2426 it certainly does, the 5D had it too. ;}
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Hi Hudson, thanks for the LENR tip. Does this eliminate the need to shoot darks? Is it as good or better than creating darks? I have R5, R62 and 5Div but never used it. I used to use the HINR but found it's more economical time-wise to shoot darks. I usually shoot darks at the end of my session. Same amount of darks than lights for stacking. Thanks!
Hey Hudson, thanks for the video. One tip I was shown when focusing at night was to turn the Liveview into mono to eliminate the colour noise, I find it works well on a D850. Naturally turn it back to colour when shooting.
@@RaySweeting when you move to the Z system, you'll be able to see the milky way and the horizon in starlight view using either the LCD or the diopter adjusted viewfinder displayed in red along with the menus and playback to save your night vision, pinpoint focus on a star or snap focus automatically to infinity by turning the body off and back on with save focus position disabled.
Pre-Z7 I used to prefocus my 14-24 AFS at dusk and gaffe tape the focus ring. Seems as far back as film now. You'll love the Z system for everything, but astro especially. :)
Wow! Great info. Thanks for doing this, it’s very helpful.
Hi Hudson. Thanks for the video. I will use my Nikon Z7 and NIKKOR Z 20mm f/1.8 S lens. I ordered the MSM (Yes, code Hudson worked) and from you the Acratech Ultimate Ball-Head. Your gear pdf recommends the Kirk Plate for MSM. This must be for the old MSM version because I cannot figure out where it is needed. Please advise. Thanks again.
Yeah, I thought I mentioned tha the new version comes with an integrated arca plate. I'll go remove that from the links. Sorry for any inconvienence. It's no longer needed. You're right.
Does the Bubble Level come with the MSM Nomad Polar Scope?
Aparently not on all of them, but you can also look through it and rotate it till the N faces up.
Great video! Do you have a tutorial for the Star Adventurer GTi as well? I got the Star Adventurer tracker in March for the eclipse to use it with my 400mm + 1.4X . It worked well for that purpose but has been sitting in the closet ever since because, for some reason, I can not figure out how to set it up for nightscapes and tracking the MW. Can you please point me toward a tutorial like this just for the other tracker? Thank you,
btw I followed your advice and got the Acratech Pano Head and Leveling Base for Panos. I love the setup.
I can't really do more than google that for you. I have a sky guider pro that I never use. I love the tiny size and ease of use of the MSM. I'd never use a tracker for the eclipse personally.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Yeah, I googled it. There are tons of videos for other trackers, e.g., the older model Star Adventurer 2i, but nothing comprehensive for the GTi. The eclipse got only a mention to explain why I bought this tracker (for its sturdiness to hold a longer lens) and not the Nomad, for example.
I was only able to afford the Nomad by itself. So, I will be using an assortment of gadgets to align it. Laser scope from my telescope, my phone apps, handheld laser. All will be mounted on 3d printed brackets of my own design. Hope it works.
Great Video Hudson! Thank you. I've been slow to get moving on the Nomad; Actually ordered it in March and it has sat for a while. What exactly are you leveling on the polar scope? I ask, because my unit did not come with the level on the polar scope. I ordered Basic Kit C (NOMAD + Pointer + Polar Scope). I have a note off to MSM asking them, but it appears the level is no longer included. It shows up on the photos if you go through them all - ONE photo remains with it - but none of the ordering options show a photo of the level. Many thanks! I'll keep you posted on MSM response.
All it does is line the north arrow straight up when looking through it. You can rotate it to accomplish that if needed. :-)
Instead of adjusting the fluid head clamp's orientation, I keep the focusing rail in my fluid head and turn the fluid head 180 degrees, so that the tightening knob is facing away. I find that I can then use the focusing rail as a handle to make the final adjustments during polar alignment. When I sue the polar scope, I also use the right angle adapter on it, so that I don't have to get into a really awkward crouch to use the polar scope. In my limited testing so far, lousy clouds, I was able to track at 120 second on the Z6iii using both the 20 1.8 and 50 1.8 with only laser alignment.
@@CathySummers-z7g that's certainly a fine idea. I have no issue aligning without a handle, but sure. I'd just use the fluid heads video handle for that if needed though. ;)
A right angle scope would be nice, but it's usually about 10 seconds of leaning down. so I don't feel a need to upgrade.
Yep I've shot for years without the polar scope and it's been generally fine, but occasionally it's a little off and you need to fine tune. The scope really eliminates that.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Shouldn't you be somewhere on Going to the Sun Road about now? 🙂
@@CathySummers-z7g in the hotel in Saint Mary at the moment. 😉
Thanks for this instructional video. Any reason you did not use "360° Flex Tilt & Pan Head - Z&V Mount" by MSM for this setup?
@@DR-fy7qy yeah. I'm not a fan at all of that. I believe pan and tilt heads like I spec on my custom tripods are far better for general photgraghy. Particularly fluid heads. Using a good one in general use, obviates the need for a lesser quality, more frustrating head like that. It'll also blow your mind how much better it is.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thanks.
thanks, great video, much appreciated! One question - why do you recommend long exposure NR = on? Do you feel that's better than DXO or other NR in post? Reason for asking of course is taking 2x as long for shots.
Common misconception. LENR is 100% different. It has nothing to do with noise you'd think of in a traditional sense. There's High ISO noise reduction (which only really works on Jpegs and is inadvisable) and then there is LENR (long exposure noise reduciton). That's designed to mitigate the inevitable pixel malfunctions in sensors exposing for longer periods. Hot or dead pixels pop up when doing long exposures and the way that LENR mitigates that is by recording a 2nd dark expsoure with no light on the sensor for the exact same time period and environmental conditions as the actual photo, recording the broken pixels and then averaging those pixels out of the RAW file. It can save hours of post production work editing hot pixels and dramatically imrpove your final results. Adobe's Denoise, ON1's NoNoise AI or DXO Pure RAW do nothing for hot pixels. It doubles your exposure time and I never use it until I have my composition, focus and expsosure dialed in, but for the final night shot, I ALWAYS use LENR.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto great thanks very much! will turn it on when ready to shoot (I did think that the AI denoise could deal with that type of pixel noise, ty for the correction (so to speak)). subscribed so will check out more of your videos / tutorials. thanks again.
I have been thinking about this device for MW use. My question concerns using the green laser in my area of NC. I have been told by authorities that this would bring a search of the dark beach area for the source and possible legal action. Is there any way to align the device without the laser? Thanks. A great instructional as usual. Wayne...NC
Really? That is super shocking. There's a million kids shining lasers around haphazardly these days. I'll bet a careful 10 second use would not get you in any trouble. It's very hard once it's dark to find polaris in a scope amongst all the stars. You're best bet would be blue hour as only the constellations appear, but it will still be tricky and you can't move or bump your rig after the light goes down. It'll be hours of waiting set up.
I may be able to shine a little light on this (Pardon the pun.).
I used to work for NORAD and have dealt with countless "LASER Events". If you shine a LASER into the Flight Deck of an aircraft even accidentally, the pilot will report it to the FAA. The FAA will then immediately notify EVERY Law Enforcement Agency you can think of (FBI, Homeland Security, NORAD, State and Local Police etc.). If either the pilot or the co-pilot get illuminated, it is treated VERY seriously and may even be investigated as a possible Hostile Act. Pointing a LASER at an aircraft even by accident is a REALLY BAD and potentially life altering mistake.
On the other hand, if you are careful to NOT point it at any aircraft, it probably won't draw any attention at all. If you do get anyone out to talk to you, it will likely just be to ask what you are doing pointing a LASER up into the night sky and that will likely be the end of it. Of course, I don't know your local laws, so you have to decide what will work best for you, but it is likely safe to say that if you don't draw attention, then nobody will even likely notice.
@@R.HogarthHudson and R. Hogarth for your replies. I live across the river, approximately 3 miles distance from my MW vantage point, which does make me nervous. That is my concern. Does anyone know what the output of the MSM laser is? How many mW?
Great video Hudson thanks.
I do have a couple quick questions though:
1. You mentioned the Viltrox 16mm lens. I assume you have had a chance to try it out for astro by now, how do you like it or would you still recommend the Nikon Z 20mm f/1.8 S lens?
2. I have the "Gen 1" MSM, and it was great when I was shooting a Sony A7R3, but the Z8 is significantly bigger and more importantly heavier than the A7R3. Would you recommend upgrading to the NOMAD for the extra Load Capacity compared to the Gen 1 MSM with a relatively heavy camera like a Z8?
@@R.Hogarth love the Viltrox. The 20 S is still the best astro lens I've ever used, but the 16 1.8 isn't far behind in 2nd place. The original is fine with my Z9 and 14-24 S. I you just need that QS60 linked in the night section of my links for it. Www.hudsonhenry.com/atslinks
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Hudson thanks for the info on the Viltrox. That might become an option for me. I looked in the Night section, and couldn't find a "QS60". What am I looking for?
@@R.Hogarth sorry. I forgot I pulled that link when the nomad released. Here it is: amzn.to/46loSJi
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thanks. I actually ordered one based on one of your previous ATS videos. I like that it not only locks in the Ball Head, but it also makes mounting it very quick.
For a while you were using leofoto stone bags which looked identical.. is there any reason you moved away from those stone bags? Also do you know what happened to lumalabs? Why did they close doors?
The main creative force at Luma got too stacked up with lucrative contract work to keep doing both. I had Desmond Photographic work with Leo to redesign thier bags to match his. Desmond is local to me and run by a great guy so I'm working directly with him on those.
Why do you no longer use the leofoto qs-60 between the acratech and the nomad?
@@michaelamador7262 it was needed for the original MSM. It is not for the new nomad.
Quick question- I’d be using my Nikon 7ii with the 14-24 2.8 and have a go-30 on a Gitzo 2542 but a little short of money now. Can the wedge take the place of the fluid head? I’m not doing any deep space just mw and night landscapes.
The wedge they sell introduces huge instability. Like a diving board. I tossed my sample in the trash. You just need Pan and tilt head for the base. Any decent one will DO.
What is the full name of the gimbal ball head you are using in the video and where did you buy it from?
@@ShawnGehlsen www.hudsonhenry.com/tripods will give you all the information you need on that fluid head and why I think it's superior. :)
Good enough for deep space…say with a 200 to up to 400mm??
A 200 - 400mm lens would probably be pretty close to the maximum weight capacity. You would have to check what your set-up weighs (including the ball head and everything after the part that rotates). Also, the longer the lens, the more precise you need to be on your alignment.
This is really a wide angle landscape setup. You're better with the iOptron. i have it and love it too, but it's car centric: bhpho.to/46s7rqq
Another tour de force
That’s a whole lotta confusion for setup…if you’re just taking a single photo with a wide angle lens, I’m not sure I see the value.
The value comes when you start to do many exposures over a long period of time. Especially if you use a full spectrum camera that is able to see infrared. When all the images are stacked and combined you are able to see far more detail than with a single exposure.
If all you plan to do is take a single shot less than 1min exposure with an ultrawide lens, then I wouldn't bother with a star tracker.
If you're not after the best results possible then that's fine. This video isn't for you. You can get images that will look great on a phone or small moniter at high iso with longer exposures than the newer NPF spot star guidelines for modern high resolution sensors (less than 8 seconds for 14mm full frame at 46mp). I did that for decades too, but my desire for large prints of night skies led me to stacking and then using a tracker and there's certainly no going back. Not by a mile. It's not very difficult with a bit of practice and the results are night and day different when it comes to quality. They just are. Particularly if you print or display at a large scale.
In my Milky Way course I cover stacking too. You can get great printable results stacking too, but I find the post processing far more cumbersome and less satisfying than using a tracker in the field.
@@timfennell3380 best comment yet. Thanks for taking the time to explain, rather than discount my efforts as a novice (but with college degree in photography), as author has done. Much appreciated !