My favorite thing about you is how you make astrophotography accessible. You show us how we can still get started in astrophotography without having to drop thousands on an imaging rig. I’m so thankful I found your channel when I started out and I always tell beginners to start here. Thank you, Nico!!!
It's super rewarding to have grown from my first astrophoto with you Nico to all that i've been able to do and learn from you! Keep doing what you are doing and never stop looking up!
Nico’s Andromeda without a tracker got me started with a Canon R5 and 70-200 at 200mm. I later included a Skywatcher Star Adventure 2i and now shoot with a Redcat 71 WIFD, guide scope/camera and 2600mc pro through asiair on an AM5 mount. Thanks Nico!
This is where I will direct people who ask me what to do on their first night of astrophotography. This is more accessible than most videos on the topic... Well done man!
Nico, thank you so much for keeping this wonderful hobby relevant and accessible to those without a tracker, such as myself. You never fail to inspire and keep us interested. It is very much appreciated. Props to the users who inspired this idea too. Cannot wait to give it a try!
Thanks Nico for this Video! I never heard about Polaris Flare, but now I tried to shoot it and I got it! During my holydays in Italy alps, very close to Austria, under a very dark sky at 1.300 meters altitude (I measured SQM = 20,95 ), on 5th August night I used a Sony Alpha 7S mirrorless camera, with a lens 50mm at F2,2, at 3.200 iso and I took 540 shots 10 seconds long. I staked them and improved the result with Pixinsight and I'm very surprised of these distant clouds around Polaris star!
One of the best video (i think the best one!) from the first light to the first image you can shoot! This video will boost and spread our passion over the world! Thanks Nico!
I finally got a full zwo setup and haven’t used my DSLR since but I think its awesome you still pump out beginner or cheaper equipment videos to keep the hobby open to everyone!
Thank you Niko, a very easily understood, comprehensive tutorial that, along with your explanations of what is happening, will be a tremendous help for me. Top Man 👊
At my Bortle 6 sky around the pole, I will need about 30 hours to get decent S/N. If I go to Bortle 3 or even 2 I can do just a few hours to see the IFN.🎉 this is very nice tutorial!🎉
What is even more cool about this target is that you dont use any filters! Im planning a bortle 1 trip soon and ill put this on the imaging list for sure. Thank you Nico for this amazing and informational video!
Absolutely wonderful, Nico! Slow, steady instructions with great details (that get skipped over by many tutorials). I truly think that I can go reproduce this project from prep to finished image. Thank you so much, Michael
This video has been by far the most simple and most detailed. You get into detail with everything and it makes it so much easier to understand how to start astrophotography thank you
Hi Nico. I pretty much had followed your exact steps from start to finish. The faint flare was completely different than yours or anyone else's. I feel as though it just won't get any fainter to reduce the amount exposure. Hopefully I can figure it out. But as always, I enjoy the learning and the teaching that you provide for us. Keep up the fantastic work.
Ive been using photoshop for years to process my astrophotos but this video made it very clear Siril is the way to go. What a fantastic walkthrough, Nico. Youre a library of wisdom for the community
This very pedagogical approach in Nico's way of presenting the whole process is just amazing! Now I got a lot of inspiration to use a camera/lens when the night is dark again (I live above 60 degree north) and also reprocess some session from the winter in Siril.
Another great video tutorial. Thanks a lot! Regarding separating the lights, darks, flats and biases, I simply take a photo with my phone-flashlight pointing into the lens in between each of the sets. By this, you get a white picture in between and its´s very easy to keep them apart when looking at the miniatures afterwards.
Well done! Deep-sky astrophotography without tracking is possible and, thank you for step-by-step lesson, this will make astrophotography more available for newbies.
I wish I could subscribe to your channel 1000 more times! Your explanations are so concise and easy to understand. You are a very good teacher. Thank you so much for doing what you do. You have helped me a lot. ❤
Wow, what an amazing video. I nearly scrolled past it due to the length of the video but I am so glad I didn't, it was well worth it. Still waiting for some clear nights but I'll definitely be using the techniques from this video. Thanks so much.
Thank you for the step-by-step. I've had Siril for a couple of years, but it's just been real estate on my hard drive. I'm looking forward to using it now.
I finally had a good night to try this. After I set up my normal imaging scope I got my DSLR out with the Samyang 135 and got 899 lights @ 20sec each plus full calibration frames. This tutorial was amazing. I will say, I was NOT expecting my poor computer to take FORTY hours for Siril to run the preprocessing script hahaha. It's a Windows gaming PC with an AMD 5600X cpu and 32GB memory, so not the fastest but certainly not a potato... ouch! It turned out so good, that's the important thing! Bortle 4
Great Nico as always, I remember being fascinated and overwhelmed by your videos about Orion nebula and Andromeda untracked back in 2020/21 which contribute to make me falling in love with astrophotography 😊 I really appreciate the detailed explanation to permit even the very beginner to enter this magical hobby
😮👍Whoa, never though of even pointing a telescope at that region. Thank you for the amazing video and for a step-by-step guide on how to image the dust without a tracker!
Thank you for putting the video together I now know the I can use my camera for Astro photography. As I have only shot the aurora a couple of times. Think of milky ways now so thanks again
Omg, first of all your works are always amazing and I'd really apperciated your efford to make astrophotography so much easier for beginner like me. Second of all, this will be my next deep skp object that I will catch. Love your work and thank you for all the inspiration that you brought to all of us who watched the video.
I’m living in the center of the Alps. This year (2024), we had no Springtime but lots of snow, some days snowing until June, it wasn’t raining or not cloudy only from August until September 12th first snowfall down to 950 m altitude (that’s a pretty low altitude). The soil was and still is soaked. Despite of hot August, it wasn’t sufficiently warm to dry it, the humidity was incredibly high, also at places with no light pollution you couldn’t barely see Polaris by eye because of massive haze, totally impossible on the camera screen. To me jaw dropping, seeing Polaris so clearly on the screen of your camera.
Lately I've been thinking about quitting astrophotography. I've failed multiple times, the gear is really expensive, and I've been on a trip without my camera. But when I saw the notification for this video I thought "man that's soo cool, how did he do that?" Yea I'm not gonna quit any time soon
I have a tracker and the likes, but these run-and-gun setups are still a lot of fun. It's a night out for me with my telescope, this I can do all the time. and I didn't know about this heavenly body around polaris (idk the English word)
Whole video is made with "Viewers obviously can't rewind and watch it again" idea behind. Still, great job, perfect explanations about a lot of stuff. Also, good source of scientific background audio, while playing some dumb games =) Siril is quite new thing for me, learned a lot, it doesn't scare me anymore. 1.5 months into all these astrophoto things, damn, what a beautiful rabbit hole =) Thanks for making such videos, really appreciate your hard work
AMAZING!!! 😍 VERY INTERESTING! VERY USEFUL AND HELPFUL! 💪 IT'S A GREAT JOB, MASTER! 👏 I watched it in the one breath 👀 And I So grateful to you for your work!🥹🤝 THANKS!!! ♥️
Thanks for this most useful guide ! Amazing how the image processing steps create beautiful artistic images from the dim low contrast telescope output. I have no idea if the final output represents properties of the interstellar dust or selective boosting of measurement system artifacts.
If it were artifacts we could assume that each camera + lens would produce different results. Since I have shot this scene many times with different systems (as have thousands of other amateurs) and all our results are similar in morphology, we can be sure it is truly the properties of the space dust we are seeing.
I would love to see you use this technique and go back to the Witch head Nebula challenge data with Trevor. How different would those images be? Great tutorial. Thank you!
Beautiful file and fantastic process walkthrough! How long would that processing take you typically (if you weren't having to describe what you're doing)?
With something like this, not long, maybe 20 minutes after the stacking was complete. But keep in mind I've put in hundreds of hours of practice processing astrophotography, so it comes pretty naturally to me at this point.
For people who happen to have a Sony E or Fuji x apsc camera: i really like the Viltrox 75 f/1.2 for fast wide field Astro photos. It has about the same apperture as the Rokinon, but for about half the price ( new ).
I don't know for Fuji mounts but for Sony E for kind of wider telephoto one of best lenses would be Sigma 105mm f1.4 Art it's sharp, no aberration, and aperture is 75 mm against 67.5mm at Rokinon.
Excellent subject for a tutorial and well-executed as always! For those looking to pull out even more detail, would it be worth it to use a star tracker to enable even longer exposures (60s, 120s, 180s, for example)? Or to use a mono camera with L, R, G, B filters?
Nice video. Since your camera that you used is a crop sensor camera you were actually shooting at 216mm with the 135mm lens. Just wanted to make sure I was converting this properly using 1.6 as the conversion rate.
Nice detailed tutorial. BTW, Siril Background stratch must be used in independent mode (you can select it if click "Advanced") to reveal color, I have no idea why maybe just Siril bug.
i dont got the lens you show, mine is a 70-300, but ill give this a shot! I do have a tracker so that'll probably help! my arms broken though, apologies for any bad typing/spelling.
Arggllll.... Why didn't I find this tutorial last week? I tried to photograph it last friday and had nothing on my images. By the way - I would recommend a battery dummy which could be connected to a bigger powerbank or powerstation by USB. And don't forget a cheap lense heating!
Thank you very much for showing this!! It leaves me wondering, why bother with polar alignment, tracking accuracy, long exposure times and all the things that make astrophotography so annoying to me. Also the fact, that you get a stunning photo just using very basic techniques and processing only with Siril just blows my mind! I will take my alt-az mount, use short exposures and use simple processing and will see what I get. This is said by a 90% visual guy 😅
Thanks, and I hope you try it. I have had many people tell me they have tried short exposures with their telescope on Alt-Az and been very impressed by the kinds of results they can get. To answer more fully what you were wondering about: The untracked method works very well for this object since the stars don't move very quickly when you shoot right at the pole (center of rotation). It also works reasonably well anywhere in the sky with much shorter exposures (1-3 seconds) for bright, large objects like many in the Messier catalog. The reason still to bother with polar alignment, tracking, and long exposures is for everything else: dimmer deep sky objects especially ones that need narrowband filters to reveal, but also smaller objects like galaxies outside of M31/33.
@@NebulaPhotos You are the experienced astrophotographer, for sure. But, if one can achieve such a beautiful picture of this IFN(!!), what dim object would withstand this kind of technique? I mean, narrowband filtered, yes. But everything else, especially when alt-az tracked? Maybe the practical difficulty to do something like this on smaller objects, lies in the fact, that large aperture f/2 systems are necessary?
@@Andreas-kw7cc Right, not impossible, but not many people have that kind of fast, large telescope for the smaller objects. And yes, alt-az tracking can help - I want to try that more to see for myself. Best of luck and clear skies!
A lot of my images look like the beginning of this video, foggy. Very good instructional video that covers a lot and has a lot of details. There are some others out there who no longer have their feet on the ground anymore, they have become more of, look what I did. I am curious why You chose this form of stretching the starless image, instead of using the Generalised Hyerbolic Stretch which has some other options.
This is Generalized Hyperbolic Stretch implemented within the Star Recomposition window. It's the exact same tool, but if you want all the options you can click the advanced button and scroll down, but I don't find the shadow protection and highlight protection useful for an image like this one where there isn't a huge range of brightness values. IFN is low contrast to begin with, so all you really need are the four basic sliders (black point, symmetry point, stretch factor, and stretch intensity)
Such a great hack! I’m still wowed by how well it works, and your two images were the first I’d ever seen of this object untracked. Thanks again for the inspiration and insight.
Very nice video, I like the way you explain things and make them seem easier that they really are. Your videos made me pull out my equipment after a decade of deep sleep, and start again this wonderful hobby. I have a question though.. you use normally canon dslr, have you ever encounter the canon banding issue? 15 years ago I was shooting with a 350d and I don’t recall having the banding issue I have now with the same camera or a 60d. Do you think this is due to the way software process the photo nowadays? Lately I’m using Siril, but I tried also DSS. If you know any way to avoid the banding, a part from using siril bandind filter (and you have the time) can you make a video on it? Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with the rest of us.
I’ve found the horizontal banding issue is only really an issue for me at ISO800 and lower. That’s one of the reasons why I run Canons at ISO1600 minimum, but prefer 3200 or 6400. What ISO are you using?
I’m using iso800 I will try to go higher. I was asking because i’m in the process to acquire a modified dslr. I live in Italy but i found on the bay a shop in Germany that is selling different models at affordable price. I was aiming to buy a 7d or a 60d. Thanks for the replay
Great video i do wide field deep sky imaging in bortle 3 skies in gower in Wales United Kingdom. I've got a Rokinon 135mm prime lens and a star adventurer 2i Pro tracking mount and a 1300d dlsr canon camera so i b giving that a go. 📸
Just a note for Nikon and Pentax users (maybe others), since you may be doing this in the dark. The lens focuses the other direction. That's something I had to be aware of when I had a Canon DSLR - I had bought some Nikon F mount lenses and adapted them to the Canon body.
Great video like always Nico 😀,🤩 You're super helpful for all people doing astrophotography.. Nico I got a question... IAM using Askar fra 400 on AM5.. with 2600 mc pro.. ASI air with guiding and dithering... IAM just thinking about to put a second camera on this rig.. canon 6d and samyang 135 taking pictures the same time.. Of course I know I gonna loose some Frames because of dither.. What do you think about the Idea... for example if I set my main camera 120 s exposures f4.. plus dithering every 2 images..and second camera 60 s ex ..so I gonna have plus minus 4 Frames ..and one lost.. Can I use second camera on different target .. or is there any way to synchronise two cameras to not loose the dithering time?
Not possible to synch dithering with ASIAir, so I would suggest doing as you are suggesting and just throwing out bad frames. You may find that due to the very different scales, you don't even have to throw out any frames.
@@NebulaPhotosyes thats interesting..i was thinking how i gonna see the bad frames if the move is 5 pixels on main camera.i need to check the scales..or set my dithering to maybe 10 pix.. thanks for replying and helping Nico👍🤩
Hi from Brasil. When you went to “image Processing”->”Color Calibration”->”Photometric Color Calibration…” you set for “Focal length” the same value of your rokinon 135mm, but the Canon t7 is croped sensor, use 1.6 factor. The correct had to be 216mm?
No, it only uses the focal length and pixel size in microns to calculate correct pixel scale. Sensor size is irrelevant to this calculation so do not use any crop factor when entering focal length.
@ Thanks! I have been learning too much with your works. I m happy about to took my first deep sky, the nebula Orion, from São Paulo city bordle8, was great.
Hi Nico, thanks for a great tutorial. I'm still feeling my way around Siril. Just a quick question or thoughts - the background extraction. Would it be easier to do the extraction after the the Star Removal or is the background extraction affected by having the start in place?
The star removal process makes the image pseudo-linear because it applies a stretch for Starnet to work. Background removal should be done first thing before any stretching of the image data is done so I don’t recommend Starnet before background extraction.
My scope is roughly f/5.3 and its aperture is 128mm so I'm guessing it's definitely too close in for this. I have a Sigma 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6 Macro Aspherical as well but I have a feeling my scope blows this thing away. (It's not a full macro it has a mechanical toggle for macro mode.)
My favorite thing about you is how you make astrophotography accessible. You show us how we can still get started in astrophotography without having to drop thousands on an imaging rig. I’m so thankful I found your channel when I started out and I always tell beginners to start here. Thank you, Nico!!!
It's super rewarding to have grown from my first astrophoto with you Nico to all that i've been able to do and learn from you! Keep doing what you are doing and never stop looking up!
Finally found a video which is a really "astrophotography complete tutorial"
Nico’s Andromeda without a tracker got me started with a Canon R5 and 70-200 at 200mm. I later included a Skywatcher Star Adventure 2i and now shoot with a Redcat 71 WIFD, guide scope/camera and 2600mc pro through asiair on an AM5 mount. Thanks Nico!
Can we see the image of andromeda?
This is where I will direct people who ask me what to do on their first night of astrophotography. This is more accessible than most videos on the topic... Well done man!
Thanks Seth!
3:59 love that meteor, joined at right top side of the frame :)
1:32 too
@@theapexhunter3344 that's an insect
I can’t thank you enough for these tutorials.
Nico, thank you so much for keeping this wonderful hobby relevant and accessible to those without a tracker, such as myself. You never fail to inspire and keep us interested. It is very much appreciated.
Props to the users who inspired this idea too. Cannot wait to give it a try!
Thanks Nico for this Video! I never heard about Polaris Flare, but now I tried to shoot it and I got it! During my holydays in Italy alps, very close to Austria, under a very dark sky at 1.300 meters altitude (I measured SQM = 20,95 ), on 5th August night I used a Sony Alpha 7S mirrorless camera, with a lens 50mm at F2,2, at 3.200 iso and I took 540 shots 10 seconds long. I staked them and improved the result with Pixinsight and I'm very surprised of these distant clouds around Polaris star!
Great to hear that Paolo!
One of the best video (i think the best one!) from the first light to the first image you can shoot! This video will boost and spread our passion over the world! Thanks Nico!
Thanks Marco!
I finally got a full zwo setup and haven’t used my DSLR since but I think its awesome you still pump out beginner or cheaper equipment videos to keep the hobby open to everyone!
Its really incredible that you can take an image like this with just a dslr, lens, and a tripod. Great Work Nico!
Thank you Niko, a very easily understood, comprehensive tutorial that, along with your explanations of what is happening, will be a tremendous help for me. Top Man 👊
dude you are an amazing asset to the astrophotography community
At my Bortle 6 sky around the pole, I will need about 30 hours to get decent S/N. If I go to Bortle 3 or even 2 I can do just a few hours to see the IFN.🎉 this is very nice tutorial!🎉
So my Bortle 7 backyard would need about 60 hours LOL light pollution sucks
What is even more cool about this target is that you dont use any filters! Im planning a bortle 1 trip soon and ill put this on the imaging list for sure. Thank you Nico for this amazing and informational video!
Absolutely wonderful, Nico! Slow, steady instructions with great details (that get skipped over by many tutorials). I truly think that I can go reproduce this project from prep to finished image. Thank you so much, Michael
This video has been by far the most simple and most detailed. You get into detail with everything and it makes it so much easier to understand how to start astrophotography thank you
Hi Nico. I pretty much had followed your exact steps from start to finish. The faint flare was completely different than yours or anyone else's. I feel as though it just won't get any fainter to reduce the amount exposure. Hopefully I can figure it out. But as always, I enjoy the learning and the teaching that you provide for us. Keep up the fantastic work.
Incredible tutorial. Much more in-depth than anything I have seen before. Thanks a lot!
Now that's what I call detailed tutorial! Just what a tyro like me (as far as Siril and Starnet) needs, and gives me the gumption to try. Thanks alot!
Ive been using photoshop for years to process my astrophotos but this video made it very clear Siril is the way to go. What a fantastic walkthrough, Nico. Youre a library of wisdom for the community
Thanks Nico! I've always appreciated your no nonsense approach to all aspects of astrophotography.
i refer your tutorials to everyone starting out and interested, most people have good camera and tripod
This very pedagogical approach in Nico's way of presenting the whole process is just amazing! Now I got a lot of inspiration to use a camera/lens when the night is dark again (I live above 60 degree north) and also reprocess some session from the winter in Siril.
Another great video tutorial. Thanks a lot!
Regarding separating the lights, darks, flats and biases, I simply take a photo with my phone-flashlight pointing into the lens in between each of the sets. By this, you get a white picture in between and its´s very easy to keep them apart when looking at the miniatures afterwards.
How much detailed a video can be, yes
Well done! Deep-sky astrophotography without tracking is possible and, thank you for step-by-step lesson, this will make astrophotography more available for newbies.
I wish I could subscribe to your channel 1000 more times! Your explanations are so concise and easy to understand. You are a very good teacher. Thank you so much for doing what you do. You have helped me a lot. ❤
Yes! I get it! I finally followed an entire video with all the processing, and I get it all! Thanks Nico!
Wow, what an amazing video. I nearly scrolled past it due to the length of the video but I am so glad I didn't, it was well worth it. Still waiting for some clear nights but I'll definitely be using the techniques from this video. Thanks so much.
Thank you for the step-by-step. I've had Siril for a couple of years, but it's just been real estate on my hard drive. I'm looking forward to using it now.
Absolutely inspiring! I love how accessible this video is for newcomers.
I finally had a good night to try this. After I set up my normal imaging scope I got my DSLR out with the Samyang 135 and got 899 lights @ 20sec each plus full calibration frames. This tutorial was amazing. I will say, I was NOT expecting my poor computer to take FORTY hours for Siril to run the preprocessing script hahaha. It's a Windows gaming PC with an AMD 5600X cpu and 32GB memory, so not the fastest but certainly not a potato... ouch!
It turned out so good, that's the important thing! Bortle 4
what a wonderful tutorial.. throughly enjoyed it and hopefully will try and use these techniques.. Thank you !
Great Nico as always, I remember being fascinated and overwhelmed by your videos about Orion nebula and Andromeda untracked back in 2020/21 which contribute to make me falling in love with astrophotography 😊
I really appreciate the detailed explanation to permit even the very beginner to enter this magical hobby
Holy cow, don't know where to start. Learned so much new, or, another way to use Siril. Will try that as well, thank you for your efforts!
😮👍Whoa, never though of even pointing a telescope at that region. Thank you for the amazing video and for a step-by-step guide on how to image the dust without a tracker!
Thank you for putting the video together I now know the I can use my camera for Astro photography. As I have only shot the aurora a couple of times. Think of milky ways now so thanks again
Omg, first of all your works are always amazing and I'd really apperciated your efford to make astrophotography so much easier for beginner like me. Second of all, this will be my next deep skp object that I will catch. Love your work and thank you for all the inspiration that you brought to all of us who watched the video.
You are so helpful to the community dude! Your content is unmatched 🔥
I’m living in the center of the Alps. This year (2024), we had no Springtime but lots of snow, some days snowing until June, it wasn’t raining or not cloudy only from August until September 12th first snowfall down to 950 m altitude (that’s a pretty low altitude). The soil was and still is soaked. Despite of hot August, it wasn’t sufficiently warm to dry it, the humidity was incredibly high, also at places with no light pollution you couldn’t barely see Polaris by eye because of massive haze, totally impossible on the camera screen. To me jaw dropping, seeing Polaris so clearly on the screen of your camera.
Fantastic tutorial and result! Thanks, Nico !!!!
Lately I've been thinking about quitting astrophotography. I've failed multiple times, the gear is really expensive, and I've been on a trip without my camera. But when I saw the notification for this video I thought "man that's soo cool, how did he do that?"
Yea I'm not gonna quit any time soon
Nico, absolutely wonderful. This caught my eye as I was going to capture this last year but never got around to it.
Excellent! I will use this for my processing all images.
I have a tracker and the likes, but these run-and-gun setups are still a lot of fun. It's a night out for me with my telescope, this I can do all the time. and I didn't know about this heavenly body around polaris (idk the English word)
and I thought I knew my way around Siril. So much new info. Thanks Nico.
Thank you for another great tutorial! I'll definitely have to try this shot out sometime.
Loved this. I get so much education from your videos. Thank you.
Whole video is made with "Viewers obviously can't rewind and watch it again" idea behind. Still, great job, perfect explanations about a lot of stuff. Also, good source of scientific background audio, while playing some dumb games =) Siril is quite new thing for me, learned a lot, it doesn't scare me anymore. 1.5 months into all these astrophoto things, damn, what a beautiful rabbit hole =) Thanks for making such videos, really appreciate your hard work
Great video. I've recommended it in the MSM Users Group. Your process applies equally well to users of small trackers. 👍
I want to make another account just so I can like this again. This is the kind of stuff that makes you want to get out.
great master class Nico!!! congrats for this video+
thank you for sharing your knowledge and this great video.
AMAZING!!! 😍
VERY INTERESTING! VERY USEFUL AND HELPFUL! 💪
IT'S A GREAT JOB, MASTER! 👏
I watched it in the one breath 👀
And I So grateful to you for your work!🥹🤝
THANKS!!! ♥️
Could I do this with a Nikon P1000, it's a bridge camera with a 125x zoom. I've always wanted to do this but I only have that camera to help me!
Simply amazing results!
Thanks for this most useful guide ! Amazing how the image processing steps create beautiful artistic images from the dim low contrast telescope output. I have no idea if the final output represents properties of the interstellar dust or selective boosting of measurement system artifacts.
If it were artifacts we could assume that each camera + lens would produce different results. Since I have shot this scene many times with different systems (as have thousands of other amateurs) and all our results are similar in morphology, we can be sure it is truly the properties of the space dust we are seeing.
I would love to see you use this technique and go back to the Witch head Nebula challenge data with Trevor. How different would those images be? Great tutorial. Thank you!
Beautiful file and fantastic process walkthrough! How long would that processing take you typically (if you weren't having to describe what you're doing)?
With something like this, not long, maybe 20 minutes after the stacking was complete. But keep in mind I've put in hundreds of hours of practice processing astrophotography, so it comes pretty naturally to me at this point.
I started with a t7. It was a great starting point.
This was very helpful, thank you!
For people who happen to have a Sony E or Fuji x apsc camera: i really like the Viltrox 75 f/1.2 for fast wide field Astro photos. It has about the same apperture as the Rokinon, but for about half the price ( new ).
I don't know for Fuji mounts but for Sony E for kind of wider telephoto one of best lenses would be Sigma 105mm f1.4 Art it's sharp, no aberration, and aperture is 75 mm against 67.5mm at Rokinon.
Excellent subject for a tutorial and well-executed as always! For those looking to pull out even more detail, would it be worth it to use a star tracker to enable even longer exposures (60s, 120s, 180s, for example)? Or to use a mono camera with L, R, G, B filters?
great video and instructions !!
Nice video. Since your camera that you used is a crop sensor camera you were actually shooting at 216mm with the 135mm lens. Just wanted to make sure I was converting this properly using 1.6 as the conversion rate.
i love the long format videos, so excited!
Great idea for an Astro Target , thank you and well done on your final Image . Not sure why you called it "elusive" though . Cheers .
I'm so excited you made a video on this 🎉
Nice detailed tutorial. BTW, Siril Background stratch must be used in independent mode (you can select it if click "Advanced") to reveal color, I have no idea why maybe just Siril bug.
i dont got the lens you show, mine is a 70-300, but ill give this a shot! I do have a tracker so that'll probably help! my arms broken though, apologies for any bad typing/spelling.
Arggllll....
Why didn't I find this tutorial last week? I tried to photograph it last friday and had nothing on my images.
By the way - I would recommend a battery dummy which could be connected to a bigger powerbank or powerstation by USB.
And don't forget a cheap lense heating!
Thank you very much for showing this!! It leaves me wondering, why bother with polar alignment, tracking accuracy, long exposure times and all the things that make astrophotography so annoying to me. Also the fact, that you get a stunning photo just using very basic techniques and processing only with Siril just blows my mind! I will take my alt-az mount, use short exposures and use simple processing and will see what I get. This is said by a 90% visual guy 😅
Thanks, and I hope you try it. I have had many people tell me they have tried short exposures with their telescope on Alt-Az and been very impressed by the kinds of results they can get.
To answer more fully what you were wondering about: The untracked method works very well for this object since the stars don't move very quickly when you shoot right at the pole (center of rotation). It also works reasonably well anywhere in the sky with much shorter exposures (1-3 seconds) for bright, large objects like many in the Messier catalog. The reason still to bother with polar alignment, tracking, and long exposures is for everything else: dimmer deep sky objects especially ones that need narrowband filters to reveal, but also smaller objects like galaxies outside of M31/33.
@@NebulaPhotos You are the experienced astrophotographer, for sure. But, if one can achieve such a beautiful picture of this IFN(!!), what dim object would withstand this kind of technique? I mean, narrowband filtered, yes. But everything else, especially when alt-az tracked? Maybe the practical difficulty to do something like this on smaller objects, lies in the fact, that large aperture f/2 systems are necessary?
@@Andreas-kw7cc Right, not impossible, but not many people have that kind of fast, large telescope for the smaller objects. And yes, alt-az tracking can help - I want to try that more to see for myself. Best of luck and clear skies!
Very interesting video.
Thanks!
🤩Grazie per i tuoi video e preziosi consigli!!!!!
those Unsolved Mystery vibes
A lot of my images look like the beginning of this video, foggy. Very good instructional video that covers a lot and has a lot of details. There are some others out there who no longer have their feet on the ground anymore, they have become more of, look what I did. I am curious why You chose this form of stretching the starless image, instead of using the Generalised Hyerbolic Stretch which has some other options.
This is Generalized Hyperbolic Stretch implemented within the Star Recomposition window. It's the exact same tool, but if you want all the options you can click the advanced button and scroll down, but I don't find the shadow protection and highlight protection useful for an image like this one where there isn't a huge range of brightness values. IFN is low contrast to begin with, so all you really need are the four basic sliders (black point, symmetry point, stretch factor, and stretch intensity)
@@NebulaPhotos Wasn't aware of that, hadn't play with all the buttons to notice that. Thanks
Thanks for the props on this little hack by me and @themadlawyer. Ur reaction was fun when we submitted to the untracked image challenge 😅
Such a great hack! I’m still wowed by how well it works, and your two images were the first I’d ever seen of this object untracked. Thanks again for the inspiration and insight.
Great video! Would there be any advantage to using an astro-modified camera for this? Specifically, a Canon Ra? Thanks!
la reconversion choc d'emmanuel macron...
super tuto! merci
As always, another amazing video. - Nico, that lens has kinda no come as far as I can see it here on RUclips at about 27:40. What’s that for a lens?
I love your no tracker series.
You have to be a perfectionist to do that ,my brain would explode if I tried that, the canon 135 f2L is as good as the Rokinson ?
Very nice video, I like the way you explain things and make them seem easier that they really are. Your videos made me pull out my equipment after a decade of deep sleep, and start again this wonderful hobby.
I have a question though.. you use normally canon dslr, have you ever encounter the canon banding issue? 15 years ago I was shooting with a 350d and I don’t recall having the banding issue I have now with the same camera or a 60d. Do you think this is due to the way software process the photo nowadays? Lately I’m using Siril, but I tried also DSS.
If you know any way to avoid the banding, a part from using siril bandind filter (and you have the time) can you make a video on it?
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with the rest of us.
I’ve found the horizontal banding issue is only really an issue for me at ISO800 and lower. That’s one of the reasons why I run Canons at ISO1600 minimum, but prefer 3200 or 6400. What ISO are you using?
I’m using iso800 I will try to go higher. I was asking because i’m in the process to acquire a modified dslr. I live in Italy but i found on the bay a shop in Germany that is selling different models at affordable price. I was aiming to buy a 7d or a 60d.
Thanks for the replay
Looking forward to this video.
Great video i do wide field deep sky imaging in bortle 3 skies in gower in Wales United Kingdom. I've got a Rokinon 135mm prime lens and a star adventurer 2i Pro tracking mount and a 1300d dlsr canon camera so i b giving that a go. 📸
Just a note for Nikon and Pentax users (maybe others), since you may be doing this in the dark. The lens focuses the other direction. That's something I had to be aware of when I had a Canon DSLR - I had bought some Nikon F mount lenses and adapted them to the Canon body.
Niko have you ever used the Seestar S50 for the Polaris flare!??
Deep Space Astro did a SIRIL episode on fixing your stars wonky shape. Works quite well.
Great video like always Nico 😀,🤩
You're super helpful for all people doing astrophotography..
Nico I got a question...
IAM using Askar fra 400 on AM5.. with 2600 mc pro.. ASI air with guiding and dithering...
IAM just thinking about to put a second camera on this rig.. canon 6d and samyang 135 taking pictures the same time..
Of course I know I gonna loose some Frames because of dither..
What do you think about the Idea... for example if I set my main camera 120 s exposures f4.. plus dithering every 2 images..and second camera 60 s ex ..so I gonna have plus minus 4 Frames ..and one lost..
Can I use second camera on different target .. or is there any way to synchronise two cameras to not loose the dithering time?
Not possible to synch dithering with ASIAir, so I would suggest doing as you are suggesting and just throwing out bad frames. You may find that due to the very different scales, you don't even have to throw out any frames.
@@NebulaPhotosyes thats interesting..i was thinking how i gonna see the bad frames if the move is 5 pixels on main camera.i need to check the scales..or set my dithering to maybe 10 pix..
thanks for replying and helping Nico👍🤩
Hi from Brasil. When you went to “image Processing”->”Color Calibration”->”Photometric Color Calibration…” you set for “Focal length” the same value of your rokinon 135mm, but the Canon t7 is croped sensor, use 1.6 factor. The correct had to be 216mm?
No, it only uses the focal length and pixel size in microns to calculate correct pixel scale. Sensor size is irrelevant to this calculation so do not use any crop factor when entering focal length.
@ Thanks! I have been learning too much with your works. I m happy about to took my first deep sky, the nebula Orion, from São Paulo city bordle8, was great.
This was impressive. Dang...
Hi Nico, thanks for a great tutorial. I'm still feeling my way around Siril.
Just a quick question or thoughts - the background extraction. Would it be easier to do the extraction after the the Star Removal or is the background extraction affected by having the start in place?
The star removal process makes the image pseudo-linear because it applies a stretch for Starnet to work. Background removal should be done first thing before any stretching of the image data is done so I don’t recommend Starnet before background extraction.
Thanks!
Love the picture on your screen! Might you tell me the region you shot there?!
Thanks, that is the Cygnus Wall (NGC7000).
@@NebulaPhotoswow - OK, I need to point my ASKAR 103 onto the wall!
My scope is roughly f/5.3 and its aperture is 128mm so I'm guessing it's definitely too close in for this.
I have a Sigma 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6 Macro Aspherical as well but I have a feeling my scope blows this thing away.
(It's not a full macro it has a mechanical toggle for macro mode.)
Could you take photos in a higher bortle area using a light pollution filter and get decent results?
Excellent
I literally learned about this just 2 days ago!!!