One important caution from a fellow QuickJack user. I am writing this in several places on RUclips so fellow users can avoid a potentially dangerous situation wherein the QJ acts like it is locked, but actually is not. Mind you, I LOVE my QuickJack BLX-5000, and when properly locked I'm totally happy being underneath it. I've used mine for fluid changes, brake jobs, and even suspension rebuild. I unwittingly discovered a "false lock" state can happen which supports a vehicle, but unpredictably break free. The usual locking mechanism works great and is very solid and stable. However, if you advance the QJ up just a little further before going back down to engage a lock stop, the cam foot also passes over the lock stop. If you then go down as usual to engage lock, the CAM foot can jam instead. That held up my 4,000 lb car, but is not actually locked! "False lock" is through the cam and its fragile pivot pin instead of the solid, secure lock created by the locking bar's end. False lock looks OK from a distance, but the one nudge of the car and bang! It breaks free. I was fortunate and noticed a false lock had occurred despite no specific warning about the existence of this hazard or how to avoid it. When QJ's false lock broke free, the locking bar luckily (and violently) slammed against the stop as the QJ dropped. Thankfully, I wasn't under the car and the drop didn't unsettle the lift blocks. Whether one wishes to call this a use error or design flaw that fails to protect the consumer doesn't matter. It is vital that users be aware of this potentially dangerous false lock state so they can avoid it. In my opinion the cam should be reshaped so it can NEVER jam against a stop to create a "false lock." At the absolute minimum users need to be warned specifically about "false lock" so they know to avoid it. I have reported this unsafe condition to QuickJack and also filed a report with CPSC.gov (20201128-2FEEE-2147367840) to help ensure proper follow up. Until a fail-safe cam is available, always go up until ONLY the end of the locking bar gets past a stop. Never let the cam foot also go over.
@@mrjesuschrist2u My safety point is that this shouldn't even be possible as a "operator error." The foot design could be readily changed to make a false lock impossible.
Thanks I really appreciate that. I figure if I'm doing a project any ways, I might as well film it and try to help the next person if I can. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the detailed information. Will the QJ give enough clearance to mount or maintain side skirts? I could not tell in the video. Thanks for the alerts in the comments as well!
Clearance for side skirts will probably depend on the application. I did a separate video and show some measurements on the QJ clearance that might give you a reference point. ruclips.net/video/O8NvNG-u7hw/видео.htmlsi=bhf0s-E20VT9TKJj
An additional feature I would like to see is rethinking the routing of the short hoses under the frame. When storing the units and the wheels are in use, if you do not deal with the hoses, they interfere or can interfere with the rolling of the frames. A remedy would be a clip or some type of holder for the hoses which would keep them off of the floor and out of the way of the wheels. I bend the hoses around and tuck them letting the stiffness hold them out of the way.
At the 11:37 mark you don't seal the thread on the male portion of the elbow fitting when you connect the hose. The Quickjack Setup and Operation Manual tells us to seal that thread.
Fantastic set-up video. Costco has them on sale for $1199.99 currently. I'm going to jump on these if the price goes below a thousand. We have 3 cars that I do maintenance on like oil changes, tire rotations, and brake services, one of the cars a lowered BRZ.
Great video, it is the best video on RUclips. If the bleeding process needs to be done because of frames jerking a bit after operating for some time should the bleeding process be done with no vehicle loaded on? Nice corvette! I have a 2008 BULLITT with 9000 miles on it that I bought in 2008. I don’t want to deal with the darn pinch rails so I ordered the Steeda jackrails that will be installed along side of pinch rails and providing a strong bar/rail for the quickjack lift. It is interesting that Steeda didn’t know of the Quickjack and Quickjack didn’t know of the Steeda rails. Hopefully I can get the Steeda rails installed or I can allow a shop to get it done for me.
They used Chuck Norris for that pic. He's walking the QJ's to the trash since he figured that it's easier and quicker to lift his car with his left hand and complete an entire brake job with his right ............
Got mine this week. I bled mine by standing it up on end and only had to do it once. Mine came in some pretty beat up boxes and the controller unit had a busted lid over the electronics. Customer service has told me to take pictures and send it to another department. Haven't done it yet to see what the outcome will be. Works well though.
Yes, if i recall, the printed instructions suggest standing the unit up, while the QJ youtube video shows it laying down but tilted up. Standing it up is probably the fastest way to get the air out, but the key is to make sure the 75lb frame doesn't fall over and kill you, haha. That really stinks that you had a busted part. I bought mine from Costco during a sale, so I was able to pick them directly off the shipping pallet. I can imagine if they were shipped through UPS/Fedex, they would get pretty banged up. The boxes are just so heavy and awkward. Hopefully QJ gets everything resolved for you quickly!
I just started to set up my 7000 model today. They now come with liquid thread sealant. Every one of my connections leaked. I'm going back to Teflon tape.
I helped my friend setup up this and the 4.5mm allen is a tad small going into the bleeding port. It will strip the allen bolt head if keep forcing it. I ended up using a channel lock just to loosen the bolt 1/8 of turn and it's easy to use the allen wrench. It might be 3/16 instead. The vendor did not include the correct allen wrench; the instruction called out the wrong size too.
Just one more thing....PUT LITHIUM GREASE IN THE LITTLE HOLES AT THE MIDPOINT OF THE FRAME PIVOT POINTS. I used a tapered tube and the initial grease application was about 1/2 tube of grease. Repeat every year. This step will make the frames run smoothly for a long time.
Scruf, I think they are asking about the small tool you used for releasing the air from the air cylinders. I don't know the name of them, but you can get them at any bicycle shop.
Great vid! Do you have to crack the valve on the pump for use every time? Wouldn’t that bring in more air or is that valve allowing for air to release?
Not needed every time, just during the setup to purge air out of the system. You try to position the valve at the high point so that air can escape when you open the valve. You’ll hear it purge any air out and then you can close the valve.
I wonder why QJ lists torque numbers when there is no way to measure with the tools specified. Consequently, the only way to check is to eye-ball the grit level used by the mechanic in these videos and then you fast forwarded through that every time :). Not critical I guess even for the newby as if there is a leak, one just applies a little more torque. Otherwise this is a great help. Thanks.
Instructions call 6 feet clearance on each side. If so It would be difficult to park a second car in the garage, so how close were you from the wall. I certainly could not do six feet and park two cars in my garage.
I just cut a piece of a 2x4 (which actually measures 1.5" x 3.5"). I did a video on fitting the QJ's under a Corvette that may help also. ruclips.net/video/O8NvNG-u7hw/видео.html
Regarding the air cylinders, do they need to be between 40-50lbs? Having difficulty with my compact tire air compressor, it has a screw-in nozzle instead of just press-nozzle like what you have. Everytime I unscrew the nozzle, air comes out and it's down to 25 lbs. (Was thinking of pumping it up to 60, but manual says do not go past 50).
How did you get the hoses connected? The short hoses that connect to the long hoses. Also the long hoses to the pump. I can’t get them to open up for the other side to go into quick connect.
They should be a simple push to connect. The quick connects are kinda stiff, so it can take a bit of effort, and make sure you've got them lined up correctly.
@@ScrufsGarage yeah you would think so, never saw anything like it, the centers are solid. Most quick connects I’ve seen have an opening on one of the sides then you pull down and insert the other side or object going into it. Emailed Quickjack with pictures. Glad you replied back, they aren’t open till tomorrow.
Ended up getting it, guess your reply helped me out. Thank you, they just go opposite of what I’m use to. They get pulled forward instead of backwards.
Nice video. One thing they say in the manual is to NOT raise them without a load on them. From their manual: The QuickJack is designed and engineered to be used with the weight of a Vehicle on it. You should only raise the QuickJack Frames with the weight of a Vehicle on them, even the very first time you use them (with the exception of bleeding the Hydraulic Cylinders). There is simply no reason to raise your QuickJack Frames unless there’s a Vehicle on them. Why are we telling you to do it this way? Because your QuickJack Frames may occasionally become stuck up in the air if you raise them without the weight of a Vehicle. There is nothing wrong with them if this happens, and the issue can be quickly and easily fixed, it’s just that they are designed and engineered to work with the weight of a Vehicle. Only raise your QuickJack Frames with a Vehicle on them.
Be aware that the vehicle does not go straight up. It follows the arc of the QuickJack. Leave room for forward or rearward movement. FYI, QuickJack says to slways use jackstands with QuickJack.
Save yourselves a shitload of aggravation. Throw that thread seal they provide right in the garbage and go straight to Teflon tape to seal fitting to hoses
As far as the "shake test" you do NOT do it that high off the ground!!!! Just after the tires leave the ground maybe an inch or two. If it falls over from the shake at your level you are going to have serious damage to the car and probably hurt yourself
I would have to use it in my driveway but it has a slight incline. Does it have to lay perfectly horizontal or is there some kind of tolerance for raising a car on a slight angle?
hmm, you might want to double check directly with QJ on that. I would be nervous using it on much of an incline. It's very stable, but I don't want to die under a car haha.
One important caution from a fellow QuickJack user. I am writing this in several places on RUclips so fellow users can avoid a potentially dangerous situation wherein the QJ acts like it is locked, but actually is not.
Mind you, I LOVE my QuickJack BLX-5000, and when properly locked I'm totally happy being underneath it. I've used mine for fluid changes, brake jobs, and even suspension rebuild.
I unwittingly discovered a "false lock" state can happen which supports a vehicle, but unpredictably break free. The usual locking mechanism works great and is very solid and stable. However, if you advance the QJ up just a little further before going back down to engage a lock stop, the cam foot also passes over the lock stop. If you then go down as usual to engage lock, the CAM foot can jam instead. That held up my 4,000 lb car, but is not actually locked!
"False lock" is through the cam and its fragile pivot pin instead of the solid, secure lock created by the locking bar's end. False lock looks OK from a distance, but the one nudge of the car and bang! It breaks free. I was fortunate and noticed a false lock had occurred despite no specific warning about the existence of this hazard or how to avoid it.
When QJ's false lock broke free, the locking bar luckily (and violently) slammed against the stop as the QJ dropped. Thankfully, I wasn't under the car and the drop didn't unsettle the lift blocks.
Whether one wishes to call this a use error or design flaw that fails to protect the consumer doesn't matter. It is vital that users be aware of this potentially dangerous false lock state so they can avoid it.
In my opinion the cam should be reshaped so it can NEVER jam against a stop to create a "false lock."
At the absolute minimum users need to be warned specifically about "false lock" so they know to avoid it.
I have reported this unsafe condition to QuickJack and also filed a report with CPSC.gov (20201128-2FEEE-2147367840) to help ensure proper follow up.
Until a fail-safe cam is available, always go up until ONLY the end of the locking bar gets past a stop.
Never let the cam foot also go over.
Just got my QJ today. Thanks so much for this warning.
Thank you so much for making all of us aware of these issues!
Thank you for the awareness of this flaw!
The operators manual page 40/41 reveal the scenario you proposed as operator error, not a design issue. If I understand your comment correctly.
@@mrjesuschrist2u My safety point is that this shouldn't even be possible as a "operator error." The foot design could be readily changed to make a false lock impossible.
I ordered my quick jack 7000 lbs today, this is the most detailed video I saw on you tube, thank you for sharing.
Nice, I really think you're going to enjoy them. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video and the comments. I used them to setup my quick jacks.
Just exceptional. Cannot give enough appreciation. You are a great teacher and incredibly thorough. Time to sub up.
Thanks for the kind words and support. Glad the video was helpful.
I just got my 7000TL and your set up instruction is just perfect! Thank you for this video.
Congrats on the new lift. Glad the video was helpful!
Very nice setup video. Much more helpful than the manufacturer's.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching. And congrats on your new Quick Jacks!
Felt a lot safer settings the jack up while watching this video, works great, thank you!!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching.
Finally a quality video review of this system. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
I watched a few setup videos. This one is the best. Thanks!
Awesome, glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Great video! Very informative.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Absolute fantastic video on the setup !
Thanks, glad to hear the video was helpful. I'm loving my QuickJacks so far!
Just ordered my QJ. This was very helpful. Happy to see they will work on my C5! Thx.
Awesome, I think you're going to enjoy them!
@@ScrufsGarage You got some nice content for us C5 dudes. Subscribed....
Thanks I really appreciate that. I figure if I'm doing a project any ways, I might as well film it and try to help the next person if I can. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the detailed information. Will the QJ give enough clearance to mount or maintain side skirts? I could not tell in the video. Thanks for the alerts in the comments as well!
Clearance for side skirts will probably depend on the application. I did a separate video and show some measurements on the QJ clearance that might give you a reference point. ruclips.net/video/O8NvNG-u7hw/видео.htmlsi=bhf0s-E20VT9TKJj
@@ScrufsGarage thank you!
Great video! Thank you!
Glad the video was helpful. Thanks for watching!
An additional feature I would like to see is rethinking the routing of the short hoses under the frame. When storing the units and the wheels are in use, if you do not deal with the hoses, they interfere or can interfere with the rolling of the frames. A remedy would be a clip or some type of holder for the hoses which would keep them off of the floor and out of the way of the wheels. I bend the hoses around and tuck them letting the stiffness hold them out of the way.
At the 11:37 mark you don't seal the thread on the male portion of the elbow fitting when you connect the hose. The Quickjack Setup and Operation Manual tells us to seal that thread.
Fantastic set-up video. Costco has them on sale for $1199.99 currently. I'm going to jump on these if the price goes below a thousand. We have 3 cars that I do maintenance on like oil changes, tire rotations, and brake services, one of the cars a lowered BRZ.
Totally agree. If you can catch them on sale at Costco, they are a great deal. I've been enjoying mine for sure. Thanks for watching!!
@@ScrufsGarage Funny how things work out. $999.99 online until Friday.
Great video, it is the best video on RUclips. If the bleeding process needs to be done because of frames jerking a bit after operating for some time should the bleeding process be done with no vehicle loaded on? Nice corvette! I have a 2008 BULLITT with 9000 miles on it that I bought in 2008. I don’t want to deal with the darn pinch rails so I ordered the Steeda jackrails that will be installed along side of pinch rails and providing a strong bar/rail for the quickjack lift. It is interesting that Steeda didn’t know of the Quickjack and Quickjack didn’t know of the Steeda rails. Hopefully I can get the Steeda rails installed or I can allow a shop to get it done for me.
Yea, I would recommend bleeding without vehicle weight on the jacks. That Bullitt sounds mint!
Great Video I just bought one thank you
Congrats, you're going to enjoy it. Thanks for watching!
I love the guy on the box pulling both from behind!😂did you try that yet?👀👍🏻
Haha, I need to hit the gym for a few months first! Otherwise that's how I drop a QJ on my foot haha
Lmao I was looking at that same image right before I read this comment
They used Chuck Norris for that pic. He's walking the QJ's to the trash since he figured that it's easier and quicker to lift his car with his left hand and complete an entire brake job with his right ............
This is a great video. Nice job
Were you nervous about buying from Costco??
You made great points.
Enjoy your new toy.
No issues buying from Costco. Though it was pretty funny pushing a shopping cart around with a car lift on it haha.
Bought my 7000 from Costco online. Writing this as I’m setting up the lift. Said 10-15 day shipping and it got here in about 3 days!
Got mine this week. I bled mine by standing it up on end and only had to do it once. Mine came in some pretty beat up boxes and the controller unit had a busted lid over the electronics. Customer service has told me to take pictures and send it to another department. Haven't done it yet to see what the outcome will be. Works well though.
Yes, if i recall, the printed instructions suggest standing the unit up, while the QJ youtube video shows it laying down but tilted up. Standing it up is probably the fastest way to get the air out, but the key is to make sure the 75lb frame doesn't fall over and kill you, haha. That really stinks that you had a busted part. I bought mine from Costco during a sale, so I was able to pick them directly off the shipping pallet. I can imagine if they were shipped through UPS/Fedex, they would get pretty banged up. The boxes are just so heavy and awkward. Hopefully QJ gets everything resolved for you quickly!
Great video. Just got the 7000slx versions.
Awesome, I think you're really going to enjoy them! Thanks for watching.
Excellent video. Thank you 👍
You're welcome, glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
I just started to set up my 7000 model today. They now come with liquid thread sealant. Every one of my connections leaked. I'm going back to Teflon tape.
Did you allow for more than 24 hours cure time? It needs to not just dry, but cure.
I helped my friend setup up this and the 4.5mm allen is a tad small going into the bleeding port. It will strip the allen bolt head if keep forcing it. I ended up using a channel lock just to loosen the bolt 1/8 of turn and it's easy to use the allen wrench. It might be 3/16 instead. The vendor did not include the correct allen wrench; the instruction called out the wrong size too.
Thanks for the video
You're welcome, glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Just one more thing....PUT LITHIUM GREASE IN THE LITTLE HOLES AT THE MIDPOINT OF THE FRAME PIVOT POINTS. I used a tapered tube and the initial grease application was about 1/2 tube of grease. Repeat every year. This step will make the frames run smoothly for a long time.
What tool did you refer to when you released the air from the cylinder on the QuickJack. I believe you called it a trigger valve tool. Thanks
The bleeder valve should just be a 4.5mm hex head. See the 15:37 mark to make sure we're talking about the same tool.
Scruf, I think they are asking about the small tool you used for releasing the air from the air cylinders. I don't know the name of them, but you can get them at any bicycle shop.
Gotcha, those are typically called a Schrader valve removal tool, or valve core removal tool. amzn.to/33TgIbM
Great vid! Do you have to crack the valve on the pump for use every time? Wouldn’t that bring in more air or is that valve allowing for air to release?
Not needed every time, just during the setup to purge air out of the system. You try to position the valve at the high point so that air can escape when you open the valve. You’ll hear it purge any air out and then you can close the valve.
@@ScrufsGarage cool, thanks! I'm going to follow your vid to the max.
I wonder why QJ lists torque numbers when there is no way to measure with the tools specified. Consequently, the only way to check is to eye-ball the grit level used by the mechanic in these videos and then you fast forwarded through that every time :). Not critical I guess even for the newby as if there is a leak, one just applies a little more torque. Otherwise this is a great help. Thanks.
I noticed you did not use the rubber blocks, but wood blocks. Is your Vette lowered? I plan on using for my stock height C5 Z06.
Yes mine was lowered on stock bolts. I explain fitting the QJ’s under the C5 in more detail here. ruclips.net/video/O8NvNG-u7hw/видео.html
Instructions call 6 feet clearance on each side. If so It would be difficult to park a second car in the garage, so how close were you from the wall. I certainly could not do six feet and park two cars in my garage.
Do you have to flip the cam lock down if you only raise the car to the half way point?
Yes that’s correct. Once you lift past either of the stops, you’ll need to flip the cam lock to lower the lift.
What size (height, width) are the wooden blocks that you placed underneath the pucks when you used the QuickJack to raise the Corvette?
I just cut a piece of a 2x4 (which actually measures 1.5" x 3.5"). I did a video on fitting the QJ's under a Corvette that may help also. ruclips.net/video/O8NvNG-u7hw/видео.html
Thank you
Happy to help. Thanks for watching.
Regarding the air cylinders, do they need to be between 40-50lbs? Having difficulty with my compact tire air compressor, it has a screw-in nozzle instead of just press-nozzle like what you have. Everytime I unscrew the nozzle, air comes out and it's down to 25 lbs. (Was thinking of pumping it up to 60, but manual says do not go past 50).
How did you get the hoses connected? The short hoses that connect to the long hoses. Also the long hoses to the pump. I can’t get them to open up for the other side to go into quick connect.
They should be a simple push to connect. The quick connects are kinda stiff, so it can take a bit of effort, and make sure you've got them lined up correctly.
@@ScrufsGarage yeah you would think so, never saw anything like it, the centers are solid. Most quick connects I’ve seen have an opening on one of the sides then you pull down and insert the other side or object going into it. Emailed Quickjack with pictures. Glad you replied back, they aren’t open till tomorrow.
Ended up getting it, guess your reply helped me out. Thank you, they just go opposite of what I’m use to. They get pulled forward instead of backwards.
Great, glad you were able to get it sorted out! Congrats on the new QJ!
Easy to set up? It’s like saying a root canal is a simple painless procedure! That said, you put together a great how to video.
Haha, I guess “easy” might be relative. It’s worth it once you’re done though. 👍 thanks for watching
Did you lubricate the hinge points?
Manual shows points at which to apply lithium grease.
Costco currently has these on sale for $999 until 2/13
Nice video. One thing they say in the manual is to NOT raise them without a load on them.
From their manual:
The QuickJack is designed and engineered to be used with the weight of a Vehicle on it. You
should only raise the QuickJack Frames with the weight of a Vehicle on them, even the very
first time you use them (with the exception of bleeding the Hydraulic Cylinders). There is
simply no reason to raise your QuickJack Frames unless there’s a Vehicle on them.
Why are we telling you to do it this way? Because your QuickJack Frames may occasionally
become stuck up in the air if you raise them without the weight of a Vehicle. There is nothing
wrong with them if this happens, and the issue can be quickly and easily fixed, it’s just that
they are designed and engineered to work with the weight of a Vehicle. Only raise your
QuickJack Frames with a Vehicle on them.
Yes, that's correct. The exception, as you noted, is while bleeding the hydraulic cylinders. And even then you aren't lifting them to full extension.
Be aware that the vehicle does not go straight up. It follows the arc of the QuickJack. Leave room for forward or rearward movement.
FYI, QuickJack says to slways use jackstands with QuickJack.
Save yourselves a shitload of aggravation. Throw that thread seal they provide right in the garbage and go straight to Teflon tape to seal fitting to hoses
A typical home has 120 and 240 volt available.
As far as the "shake test" you do NOT do it that high off the ground!!!! Just after the tires leave the ground maybe an inch or two. If it falls over from the shake at your level you are going to have serious damage to the car and probably hurt yourself
I would have to use it in my driveway but it has a slight incline. Does it have to lay perfectly horizontal or is there some kind of tolerance for raising a car on a slight angle?
hmm, you might want to double check directly with QJ on that. I would be nervous using it on much of an incline. It's very stable, but I don't want to die under a car haha.