Maintaining Your QuickJack
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- Опубликовано: 20 авг 2024
- So you now went and bought a Quickjack, set it up, and have probably used it a few times. But it doesn't end there. You have to perform periodic maintenance, including the lines, the hydraulic pump, and the racks. Also inspection of all components, including lift pads and fitting. Check this video out for the step by step procedures for your QuickJack
Disclaimer
I assume no liability for property or vehicular damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommend safe practices when working with any and all tools, including but not limited to electrical tools, power tools, pneumatic tools, any lifting apparatus, including jacks, jack stands, and automotive lifts, manual tools, chemicals, lubricants, and any other instruments used within the video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of all above mentioned tools or equipment, or any other items mentioned above, and all information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not myself or Nexus Auto. Caution is advised and any practices by the viewer is at user discretion. Any tool or part recommendations or links are given for informational purposes only and it should be assumed to be bought at your own risk. I or Nexus Auto assumes no liability for any damages, premature part failures, or incorrect parts made from purchases made online, including but not limited to tools, parts, instruments, jacks, chemicals, lubricants, etc.
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Great job! Straight forward, to the point, really informative. Very helpful. Thanks for taking the time to do this!
No problem at all. happy to hear the video was helpful
Good job and explained what is necessary for the small Service and where you have to check/ take care.
Thanks, much appreciated.
Unfortunately they're about 225 but still cheaper than a new jack.
Damn, a bit pricey, but agreed that it's the better alternative
Here is the adapter part number for the PUMP SIDE. FEM-252-4FP
FEM NIPPLE ASSEMBLY. They are 60 bucks.
BUT the male and female ends (6-1/4 F5OF-S
STRAIGHT MALE PIPE ADAPT $6.98) are only like 7 and 10 bucks a piece.
Thank you for the video, you just answered my question about the fluid you use, I am planning to use the ISO 32 in my unit.
No problem at all. Glad to hear these videos worked out for you.
How about
Grease zerk fittings? What size are they and can they be added
@THOMASDRELICH unfortunately, I couldn't tell you the size, as I haven't tried zero fittings myself. It doesn't look like there is a lot of material to thread the fittings into, and there isn't a lot of room between the frame and moving parts inside. So I'm not sure how well a grease fitting will work. Great question though
Good job
Thanks, much appreciated.
6:44 Teflon tape is no longer included: as of today (2022) they now provide Luogu LG188 liquid thread sealant. If your manual states only use liquid sealant, download the latest Sept 2021 Version B1 of the instruction manual which says it’s ok to use Teflon tape.
They have also deleted all the torque specs because it was difficult to impossible for the average customer to have the torque tools and adapters necessary. They now state hand tight then 2-3 turns for the large fittings.
Oh that's interesting that they changed it. Thanks for posting this info!
I use a grease gun with thick lithium grease. The gun forces the grease under pressure.
NIce! That's a pretty good idea. Thanks for the tip
@@NexusAuto I tried to use a grease gun, but the white lithium grease just shoots back out of the pin hole. Not sure what kind of fitting I need to use. User manual was not helpful.
@@khalilflowers5277 Not sure what fitting Phil used, either. Personally, I am still just using the white lithium grease with the spray nozzle and it has worked great for me personally. If someone has the right fitting, the grease gun is a great idea too, but I have stuck with the can of White Lith.
My quick jack has fluid climb from the air cylinder. Is it bad
So, is there hydraulic fluid coming from the air cylinder, or water?
It's hydraulic fluid.i called quick jack and I have to replace the cylinder. Thanks for your reply.
@@tommytroup197 no problem. Hopefully those cylinders aren't too costly.
Just got mine few weeks ago. Actually haven't lubed it at all and have used a few times. Need to. Also a hose Is tiny bit leaky. On that side it made funny noise hopefully tightening up and lube fixes it. For some reason my quickjcks never drop or raise my car perfectly the same. Sketchy
That is sketchy. The only time I had that problem was when the PSI in the air cylinder was off, it would not drop at quite the same rate. I added air and it has been good ever since. But never had an issue raising it. Keep an eye on it...could end up being a defect. They are also leaky. When I read my manual, it actually says there will be occasional leaks, even with the teflon tape lol. Found that to be an interesting piece of information...also a bit sketchy. I had it for about 1.5 years and lifted about 100 different cars, from Corolla to Tahoe, and had no issues. I hope you have the same results with the tightening and lube.
11:06 my air cylinders leak, I see you have tape on yours did you take your valves out and tape them up?
That's teflon tape. When I got the quickjack, the manual says to put Teflon tape on those air fittings or they will leak. That's the tape you're seeing.
Great video, had mine for about a year, starting to get a leak from the hose fitting and the motor, trying to figure out what's causing that, maybe a oring seal?
I find that either the o rings go, the teflon tape breaks down, or dirt gets into the the fittings. I already had one fitting, the one that attaches to the motor, replaced under warranty. So it could be that.
Thanks for the video! Are these maintenance things listed in the manual?
No problem at all. Some things are listed in the earlier manuals, but apparently the newer manuals don't list everything (as per another viewer who messaged me). But pretty much all of this stuff I either got out of the manual or recommended it based on my experience
First time setting up with ATF and the fill port is really small for insertion. Took very long to fill holding area. I removed the cap completely thing it would help but realized inside the container was a magnet. Realized that magnet was connected to cap. I had to disassemble the holding cell completely and tried to save my atf so I could reattach. Was a big mess. I think poor design. First use after completing set up and used the system I realized my pump holding system was collapsed. Luckily the quickjack was locked in safe mode. What do you think happened?
Hmmm. That's a very good question. Not sure what would cause those issues or collapse. I've haven't had it happen to me personally so hard to say. Were you able to get everything fixed?
I have been having an issue when lowering, it won't go down evenly. The psi is the same on both sides, no leaks, fluid level is ok and it's bled. Can't find any physical damage. It lowers so unevenly that one side the lock gets stuck.. then I have to move the arm again then lower it. A bit sketchy to say the least.. at this point scared to use the damn thing lol. Any ideas? I have contacted quickjack directly and they weren't able to offer a solution :/
Hmmm. That is hard to say, and I never encountered it, so I can't say I have direct experience with that issue. But I can try and give some advice on it.
There is only 5 things that affect the car going down
1. The hydraulic pump
2. The high pressure line
3. The weight of the vehicle
4. The air in those cylinders
5. The racks themselves
I'm led to believe it may be an obstruction or issue with the high pressure lines or fittings. Or possibly the racks binding when it's going down.
We know it's not the hydraulic pump itself. It works and it drops one side down ok
We know it's not the weight of the vehicle, for obvious reasons lol.
We know it's not air cylinders, since the pressure is good and the air cylinders only functions when the weight of the vehicle is no longer on the racks
So without being there, I can only think of
1. The racks, where they move up and down, have build up and corrosion in them somewhere on the one side and it's causing resistance when going down. Do the racks go up at the same pace? Or is one slower than the other?
The other thing is the lines. If there is a pinch in the line somewhere, or if an obstruction (dirt or debris got in the line somehow), or if a fitting is not moving freely, then the pump may not be able to pull back the hydraulic fluid at the same pace. So one side, the fluid moves faster than the other side. It can also be the fitting on the pump itself too, or the one on the rack.
Hope that helps give some direction on where to look
Hi. Thanks for the vid. Can you please suggest how you would check for pinholes? Just check for any weeping on the outer sheaths?
Check for pinholes where? On the hydraulic lines themselves?
@@NexusAuto Hi. I just realised you posted this a while ago. Apologies, I should have referenced it in my comment. You mention it at 1:52.
@@DandyNun no problem at all. Thanks for the timestamp.
For pinholes on the line, you would see 3 possible scenarios.
1. Exactly as you said. You will see some weeping or oily residue on the outer sheath.
2. As you use the hydraulic lines, you will see fluid develop on the ground where the leak is
3. depending on the size of the pinhole, it my actually shoot out a couple of feet, so you may see some fluid on the ground or on a wall.
There is decent pressure in the lines when using the quickjack, so a pinhole would become apparent in use. But weeping would be a definite sign too.
Also, if there is an internal pinch or tear, a bulge can appear in the line as well. Don't use it if that happens.
@@NexusAuto Thanks 🙏🏻 I’d actually just been reading about them in the warning section of the user manual. Seems they can be pretty dangerous. Then you mentioned them here, so I thought I’d ask. Thanks for taking the time 👍🏻
@@DandyNun for sure. Nothing wrong with asking at all! I can tell you so far, I has been used on about 100 different cars, lots of jobs, and other than one fitting that failed (and was replaced under warranty) and checking the air pressure, there has been no issues at all. Definitely worth the purchase
👍
Here is the adapter part number for the PUMP SIDE. FEM-252-4FP
FEM NIPPLE ASSEMBLY. They are 60 bucks.
BUT the male and female ends (6-1/4 F5OF-S
STRAIGHT MALE PIPE ADAPT $6.98) are only like 7 and 10 bucks a piece.