Quickjack Hack to easy move
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- Опубликовано: 20 авг 2024
- -Ma-san Garage Official Web Site
ma-g.jp
-Ma-san's Twitter
/ yamada911
-Ma-san's Profile (Masaaki Yamada)
Who is Ma-san?
The man living in Japan, Aichi prefecture where the famous Automotive Maker, Toyota is located here. (Japan Central Area)
I used to be a senior magazine editor of the motorcycle and also experienced to work with technical writer of Porsche magazine.
One of my sweet memory in the past is that I went on a cross-country trip across Japan and North America by a Motorcycle.
I zipped tied 4 roll ball transfer bearings to each frame and it rolls real nice now. You've saved alot of people's backs with this video. Thanks
Update: I have the 7000slx and with the roller bearings installed about 1/2" of height. I am still able to store them under my 2017 camaro ss and drive Over them. There is about 3 " of extra space between the jack and the exhaust.
where did you buy the ball transfer?
So 1/2 inch total height of bearing? Can you provide link? Thank you
That's the way they should have made it.
I don’t even own this thing yet but I like your ingenuity.
Many thanks, MA-SAN and Peter. It really works for me. My new QJ is 7000 TL I bought from Japan. I live in TAIWAN.
I used the same ball rollers but they were 10mm screw-in with a 10mm shank. I had to tap the holes but I read that if a bolt is placed in any drilled and threaded hole the structure retains about 90% of its original strength. Two years and no issues. I also put them at all four corners instead of the swiveling caster he used.
Awesome innovation.! I need to use a larger diameter wheel as I have rough asphalt driveway. I love my quickjack and I may groan a bit putting them in place, but I’m so glad I can work on my rigs concentrating on the work and not on “is my rig gonna move?”.
Thank you.
What a good hack. I need this for when I ever buy quick jacks!!!
Brilliant.
Excellent video. Great camera work to clearly show it.
Very clever. Cheers for sharing.
Good idea!!!
Shh! I'm in the garage again the wife is on the phone GREAT!! SOMEBODY was worried about the lift tipping in or out bolt 4 angle iron along the rails about6 inches each or weld with the roller wheels as soon as the rail take the weight all of it takes the weight& you've increased your stabillity of the main rails by a foot on each side !!!! &ya i want the 7000 lb one for my 68 chevy caprice oh oh here she comes run run great job thanks
The manufacturer shold watch these videos.
Fantastic idea. Thanks for sharing!
Genius!
Heck yeah.. All great ideas..
Great idea
Would be nice to know what size casters, and roller balls you used
Thats Really Really Good. Well done.
Excellent, thank you!
Awesome work! I need to do this to mine
Making a Quick Jack into a Kwik Lift! Our product has wheels, needs no air supply, and lifts all the way up to 3.5T!
@AZ Subie Dude Out of curiosity, what makes you think we are not producing these at the moment? We have stock and spares all based in Hertfordshire just outside of London!
Love it. Thanks for the video!
Great idea. I thought I had to start working out lol
Anybody have a link to where to buy these parts for the easy move hack?
I like the wheel mod better.
Probably most people watching this already have a quickjack, but if you happen to be on the fence, read on. I actually have the 7000TL and I'd say it's ok, but only if you're lucky and get one without a defective air cylinder. If you do get one of those you're screwed - Quickjack will 100% not stand behind their product. They'll claim the air-assist down isn't "necessary to the function of the lift". Really? So if one side has air assist down and the other doesn't, and they drop unevenly, that's safe? And then when the vehicle drops to the ground and one side of the lift goes straight to the full down position while the other... doesn't. You need to wait... and wait... and wait for it to drop with no weight on it. Quickjack will claim this "is normal operation" and that "it will get better over time". If you invest a massive amount of time trying to get them to stand behind their product they will, eventually, after burning through every once of customer goodwill, send out a new cylinder. Yay! Until you get the replacement and the freakin' air side is literally capped off. Like intentionally made unusable. That's not a fix guys. Then they'll claim that the engineers decided the down-assist wasn't necessary and that they've changed the design on future models. But I didn't buy a future model with less functionality. I bought the current model with exactly the functionality I wanted, was promised, and paid for. Whatever. Too much time wasted on it already - I've written off the entire company as another skanky marketing hack with no integrity.
I still have the quickjack in my shop, but the company worked very hard to make me regret my purchase and it low-key pisses me off every time I look at it. And honestly the setup is inconvenient enough that even when I do pull it out - warts and all - it happens very rarely. Only when I have a longer term project where I know the vehicle will be on the lift for a week or two. Definitely not for things like oil or tire changes. It's just way quicker to use a floor jack, or even ramps.
3:39 Surely, you can fasten the casters at the front without the ends of the screws sticking out.
Anyone have links to the parts used in this video?
What size caster wheels are those? How many inches high?
What size caster wheels are those? How many inches high?
I noticed he was willing to tap the metal plates - which makes sense since it is unlikely to cause any structural weakness, but why not also tap the rails with the bearing coasters? Zip ties don't hold that well for me and the bearings I have do not have a backing plate. I am not a structural engineer but I would hope that two small metal taps in each rail would not significantly weaken them. Any useful advice here? Thanks in advance.
Of course I don't like the idea of poking holes in that rail. In fact, I was going to weld a metal plate to that rail and install a bearing there. However, even with a simple test installation, the bearings were durable enough, so I used them as they were.
@@ma-sangarageenglishchannel6454 hello hope you dont mind me asking, what is the size of the ball bearing caster and the other roller that swivels pls and thank you.
On mine I took the plung and drilled 5/32" holes in the lifting frames and pop riveted the tiny bearing caster assemblies in place. If I had a welder, would have instead spot welded them on to preserve full integrity.
Perhaps I’m just not looking closely enough, but why not just use four ball casters per jack vs. two ball and two wheel?
This is what I am doing. Found some similar ones at Harbor Freight (5/8" ball casters) and will be using them on the outside rail on the same end that Ma-san mounted the casters. I tested it out with zip ties holding them on and it works well, using mounting tape and testing out from there.
This jack is no used
Great job, Do you have a link to buy those exact bearings and wheels you got?
hello hope you dont mind me asking, what is the size of the ball bearing caster and the other roller that swivels pls and thank you.
@@jr-ed6xs you gotta ask the author cause am not sure
Should have been part of the original design.
How many centimeters was that wooden block you used to space the ball transfer bearing from the end of the frame?
I think it was about 6 cm, but I don't remember. I decided on the position through a lot of trial and error. You may need to do the same.
@@ma-sangarageenglishchannel6454 Do you have a link for the ball caster? Can't find anything like it anywhere to make this mod.
@@ToddMcMullen go on Amazon and type in ball caster.
@@DRrigger1 Thanks, I used some from Harbor Freight and used 4 total on each frame and they work great.
Where are the used parts left ?!???
Hallo, can you measure dimension of rectangle tubes of quickjack is made?
Because there is a difference between 5000slx and 7000slx. and upper platform is made from different rectangle tube than bottom part on the ground.