Mine had a bad socket, so I was pretty far up the creek until I found a rare replacement on eBay for cheap. Thanks for sharing this! Can't wait to finally hop back on this project
@@ghostses Well I found out that my powerstat only goes to 118.5vac it does not go to 140vac even though that is what it says on the tag with the info. The tag says that I have the type 116 and I found a chart on a website that says the 116 only goes to 120vac. But mine has the 140 dial like yours. Have you ever heard about that?
Makes sense! Thanks so much. Now I just have to get a new carbon brush to fix a broken one. I can't imagine how dumb I'd be if I didn't have RUclips experts like you to teach me.
No problem Charlie! Glad to help. Expert is a bit of a stretch when it comes to me, but I know what you mean. I learn WAY more from others than what I've contributed. Good luck locating the brush. Take care, G.
Yeah, I used to have to go the library for information- or try to pick someones brain locally. You still get bad info online, but after weeding it out- the answer is there. Very cool! Good to hear from you, G.
Very helpful. I have one just like yours but have not plugged it in yet after replacing the 120V input wires. Quick question - what should be the DC resistance of the outer coil - from terminal 1 to 2? I measure 1.0 ohms and it seems too low. The DC current would be 120/1.0 = 120 A !! Perhaps with AC, the reactance is much higher?? Will appreciate your advice. Thanks
Thanks James. I will start by saying this is AC in and AC out. It just regulates AC voltage. But, I took mine apart and measured the resistance between terminals 1-2 and came up with 1.1 ohms. I will not be taking mine apart again for future questions, so I hope this helps, G.
@@ghostses Thanks for your reply. I plugged mine in, and at no load on the variable side, measured ~0.07 amps AC. So, the AC inductive reactance is far greater than the DC resistance. Later, I got a reply from the supplier, Specialty Product Technologies on the DC resistance; they also said 1.1 ohms. Thanks a lot.
I guess I don't understand. The load would be whatever is plugged into it. I'm pretty sure the video shows all connections, but let me know if I'm incorrect. G.
I just acquired this same variac and when I opened the box, I found it had been roughed up during shipping. A broken fuseholder and maybe more. Is there a business that offers replacement parts for this unit? Thanks again. Enjoyed your video too!
@@ghostses Excellent video! very informative and interesting. I also have the same model and i would like to know if the fuse i have is the correct one. It is a 32VAC 8AMP Mfr Gould gdl, it seems like it is a slow-blow fuse because the filament is not the thin type it is a flat metal stripe. I am also wondering about the 32VAC voltage rating it seems kinda low to me? but i just bought it and i am not too familiar with its specifications. It does work fine. Thank you
@@SDsailor7 Rob, mine had a 250V 8AMP ceramic slow-blow fuse in it when I got it that was blown. I only had a 250V 8AMP fast acting on-hand when I did my restoration video so that's what I used. Personally I would replace it with a 250V 8AMp slow-blow fuse- or at least have some on-hand if yours ever pops. Don't know if it should be ceramic or not, but again- that's what mine had in it when I got it. Hope this helps, G.
@@ghostses I know that the 8 amp is correct because there is a metal tag right next to the fuse that says 8 amp. I am concerned with the 32vac being incorrect but i will do some research to see if it correct. Do you have the operators manual or service manual?
Mine had a bad socket, so I was pretty far up the creek until I found a rare replacement on eBay for cheap. Thanks for sharing this! Can't wait to finally hop back on this project
Good deal! Hope your project turns out well. Take care, G.
@@ghostses Well I found out that my powerstat only goes to 118.5vac it does not go to 140vac even though that is what it says on the tag with the info.
The tag says that I have the type 116 and I found a chart on a website that says the 116 only goes to 120vac. But mine has the 140 dial like yours. Have you ever heard about that?
Makes sense! Thanks so much. Now I just have to get a new carbon brush to fix a broken one. I can't imagine how dumb I'd be if I didn't have RUclips experts like you to teach me.
You would only be dumb if you didn't use RUclips as a resource. None of us know everything but there's a video for everything (just about).
No problem Charlie! Glad to help. Expert is a bit of a stretch when it comes to me, but I know what you mean. I learn WAY more from others than what I've contributed. Good luck locating the brush. Take care, G.
Yeah, I used to have to go the library for information- or try to pick someones brain locally. You still get bad info online, but after weeding it out- the answer is there. Very cool! Good to hear from you, G.
I had to Like this Video, only that you personalized it for Charlie!
Thanks Herbert, I was glad I could help him out. Take care, G.
Very helpful. I have one just like yours but have not plugged it in yet after replacing the 120V input wires. Quick question - what should be the DC resistance of the outer coil - from terminal 1 to 2? I measure 1.0 ohms and it seems too low. The DC current would be 120/1.0 = 120 A !! Perhaps with AC, the reactance is much higher?? Will appreciate your advice. Thanks
Thanks James. I will start by saying this is AC in and AC out. It just regulates AC voltage. But, I took mine apart and measured the resistance between terminals 1-2 and came up with 1.1 ohms. I will not be taking mine apart again for future questions, so I hope this helps, G.
@@ghostses Thanks for your reply. I plugged mine in, and at no load on the variable side, measured ~0.07 amps AC. So, the AC inductive reactance is far greater than the DC resistance. Later, I got a reply from the supplier, Specialty Product Technologies on the DC resistance; they also said 1.1 ohms. Thanks a lot.
@@jamesprochaska6398 Good deal! G.
I’m sure Charlie appreciates it.
He did Mac! Glad I could help. Good to hear from you. Hope you're doing well. Take care, G.
How about showing the load side connections?
I guess I don't understand. The load would be whatever is plugged into it. I'm pretty sure the video shows all connections, but let me know if I'm incorrect. G.
I just acquired this same variac and when I opened the box, I found it had been roughed up during shipping. A broken fuseholder and maybe more. Is there a business that offers replacement parts for this unit? Thanks again. Enjoyed your video too!
I can't say. Good luck with finding that your need. G.
@@ghostses Excellent video! very informative and interesting.
I also have the same model and i would like to know if the fuse i have is the correct one. It is a 32VAC 8AMP Mfr Gould gdl, it seems like it is a slow-blow fuse because the filament is not the thin type it is a flat metal stripe. I am also wondering about the 32VAC voltage rating it seems kinda low to me? but i just bought it and i am not too familiar with its specifications. It does work fine.
Thank you
@@SDsailor7 Rob, mine had a 250V 8AMP ceramic slow-blow fuse in it when I got it that was blown. I only had a 250V 8AMP fast acting on-hand when I did my restoration video so that's what I used. Personally I would replace it with a 250V 8AMp slow-blow fuse- or at least have some on-hand if yours ever pops. Don't know if it should be ceramic or not, but again- that's what mine had in it when I got it. Hope this helps, G.
@@ghostses I know the 8amp part is good because it has a metal tag right next to the fuse holder I am only concerned with the 32
@@ghostses I know that the 8 amp is correct because there is a metal tag right next to the fuse that says 8 amp. I am concerned with the 32vac being incorrect but i will do some research to see if it correct.
Do you have the operators manual or service manual?