For the home hobbyists waterbourne paints doesn't make sense because of the cost mainly however for a shop its more cost effective and efficient due to less time in the booth espicially ones with a gas burner and less coats you need to apply is less chance for dusts and nibs land in your basecoat. Running a heated booth is not cheap each time, not only because of the gas you got all the lights and the massive intake and exhaust fans too. Our booth is around 12-15kw
Hi Casper, yes i can appreciate that, it's not really practical for the guy at home, as you say, it's expensive and anyone doing a reasonable size job will struggle to get it dry. I was really surprised by the coverage, this was my first time trying it so didn't know what to expect, although i had been told it covered better, pitty it has it drawbacks as it was really nice to use and there's less chance of a reaction with the base layers, in this case i had gone a little low on one point when i sanded and had gone through the clear coat, something that can cause a problem but i know it wasn't going to in this case, cheers 👍
@@peteshobbies5383 oh yes the dreadful paint mapping and fry ups are a common occurrence on solvent and in some cases you can't fix it even if you just dust it on it it could still reappear and on silvers you can't hide them completely either. Another benefit Waterborne has over solvent 👍
Hi buddy, I don't think Iwata give it a name but i would class it as a Trans Tech, It's not HVLP as they're normally designed to run at a lover pressure than the 29psi or 2bar of the WBX cap, it's not LVLP as it uses 370lts of air a minute so not LV or LP, it's not LVMP as the volume is too high at 370lts a minute
I have the Bellaria and yes, the same question popped into my head.... Why is the WBX so expensive? That is why I break out my Sata with the WBS in it... Problem solved.
Hi Niam, It's repeated on the W300 range, the WB version is a fair bit more expensive than the standard versions, they are a cracking mini gun btw in WB, the Kiwami4 which in the new Bellaria is again twice the price in WBX and nearly twice the price in WB versions
Waterborne has so many advantages over solvent the one disadvantage is drying it which makes it unusable in my environment i even tried the mipa accelerator and it still wouldnt flash.
Hi, Yes, i agree, it certainly covers better, doesn't smell as much which may be a big advantage for people at home, better for the environment, much less likely to react with the paint underneath if your doing spot or smart repairs, i had no problems with drying but i appreciate it's only a bike tank, i am going to experiment with thinning/reducing it with alcohol, this should work in that it will mix ok and reduce the basecoat but will dry quickly with a little heat, we shall see, could be a silly idea but that the whole point of trying these thing's , cheers 👍
Hi Mike, no, the Kiwami4 WBX and W400 WBX shot the same, the Bellaria is a W400 but with a different cap, the BA4-2, so shots slightly differently, it doesn't have a split nozzle that the WBX does so the atomisation isn't as fine, still a great gun though and normally half the price
Hi Casper, the needle is shorter on the Kiwami4 and the pitch of the threads are different so they don't interchange, the video below explains it better 👍 ruclips.net/video/InffdpAN-No/видео.html
Well mate you did a better job on yours than I did as mine came out very blotchy and mine was the same make and colour water based basecoat as you used, can you confirm whether or not you added any reducer to yours? as I went by the TDS and added 30% Dima reducer and it took an age to flash with the temp at 21C. I've heard that the clearcoat goes down a lot better over this base compared to solvent but I didn't notice much different as by then mine was totally FUBAR!! 😭😂 Anyway I should have some more coming in the next day or so, this time it's the Octoral W/B basecoat so will see how it goes, thanks for the mention Pete 👏👏👍
Hi John, i used it straight as it was, no reducer at all, it was a little thicker than normal solvent but not as thick as clear so i though it must spray ok, you can't really see but on the paper before i sprayed the tank when the gun was at normal spraying distance it was very blotchy so i tried it further away and it was much better which is why i sprayed it further away, it actually seemed to dry quicker, i have a 18v Makita blower that i was going to put a filter across the intake and blow it but the heat gun was perfect, heat and air, there wasn't a mark on the whole thing, it went on so well, I've since used the same make on my car in the Sri pro lite 1.2 neat and it sprayed fine, again just holding it back further and moving a little faster, it gives excellent coverage. Don't know how it will be in winter but we will see, I've given up spraying under 5°c as it's hard work, be interesting to see what you think of the Octoral, did you spray as normal or modify your spraying when you tried it?
Hey Pete, I will have to try it again without any reducer but it seemed quite thick to me I might put some through my viscosity tester thingy (you know, the cup with a din4 hole in it) just to see what it is, all I have for drying paint is a ionising hairdryer. I can't use a heat gun as I'm just on a single phase 13A 3KW supply to my workshop I'm amazed how it runs all my lights 2 big extractor fans and the compressor plus the hairdryer as it is 😬 I thought about running another lead from a different ring main in the house which would give me another 13A supply but it's a lot of messing around. When I sprayed the W/B basecoat I just did it the same way as I do solvent, one very fine coat then 2 wet coats and a drop coat if needed, tell you what Pete I would love to see you spray W/B using your DV1 base gun as that's all I use now for my basecoat. 🤔👍 EDIT: had to strip the 2 wings that I used wow primer on, when I tried sanding the primer it went through very easily, also noticed that now it's cured it's full of fisheyes, have the High Build primer on stand by ready for round two tomorrow morning 😬👍🙄
I'll give it a try with the DV1 sometime and see how it's goes, you should get away with a heat gun ok as you are only using it after you have stopped spraying so no need for the compressor to be running, that will take the most current so fans etc won't be a problem, just a thought buddy 👍
Yeah that was my thought Pete but I use my air fed mask so the compressor will cut in and knowing my luck I will be using the heat gun at the same time which would probably blow the fuse 😂 look forward to seeing the DV1 with W/B 👍
Hi Ionut, you will get a very flat finish with any off them, the WS400 base is a bit slower for clear and not as good a finish as the WS400 clear and the WBX, all very good though
Hi Zed, That's a really good question, if it's a one gun for all i would recommend the Kiwami4, I think i would still recommend the Gti Pro Lite TE10 for base or TE20 for clear if you were just using one gun for each but the Kiwami4 is a better do it all gun, it's very close though
@@zed5700 If it's for clear only and you want a flat finish then the T110 is the cap for you, i would recommend 1.2 tip as it gives the flattest finish, it is relatively slow but but works better than a 1.3 or 1.4
@@peteshobbies5383 in my place the humidity are low and the temperature are quite high so i think i will go with the 1.3. How about the air compressor that you are using?. Does gti pro lite uses a lot of air?
For a full size gun they don't use huge amounts, the TE10 and T110 use the least, i have used them on a 50 litre compressor of 14cfm quite happily, if you were doing a complete car in one go you would need more, 2 or 3 panels would be fine. I have found the 1.3 is just a little bit too much fluid so it doesn't atomise as well as with the 1.2 but you may find different, the needle is the same so you can just try a different tip if needed
Hola amigo, compré mi Kiwami4 de Painting Tool Japan en Ebay, ellos hacen el WBX Kiwami4, aquí está el enlace. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115188529012?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ywPYxxsmRea&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=v5EZyL9iR9-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
well done pete well explained thanks
Thanks Andrew 👍
Great comparison. Appreciate you Pete 👍
Thanks Viktor, much appreciated 👍
For the home hobbyists waterbourne paints doesn't make sense because of the cost mainly however for a shop its more cost effective and efficient due to less time in the booth espicially ones with a gas burner and less coats you need to apply is less chance for dusts and nibs land in your basecoat. Running a heated booth is not cheap each time, not only because of the gas you got all the lights and the massive intake and exhaust fans too. Our booth is around 12-15kw
Hi Casper, yes i can appreciate that, it's not really practical for the guy at home, as you say, it's expensive and anyone doing a reasonable size job will struggle to get it dry.
I was really surprised by the coverage, this was my first time trying it so didn't know what to expect, although i had been told it covered better, pitty it has it drawbacks as it was really nice to use and there's less chance of a reaction with the base layers, in this case i had gone a little low on one point when i sanded and had gone through the clear coat, something that can cause a problem but i know it wasn't going to in this case, cheers 👍
@@peteshobbies5383 oh yes the dreadful paint mapping and fry ups are a common occurrence on solvent and in some cases you can't fix it even if you just dust it on it it could still reappear and on silvers you can't hide them completely either. Another benefit Waterborne has over solvent 👍
Hi Pete, nice video as always ! Does the cap of W400 WBX is the same with the Kiwami WBX ? Cheers
Hi Mate, No, the bezel is different , the centre is the same
@@peteshobbies5383thanks pete ❤
@ianex9639 No worries 👍
thanks the air type HVLP, LVLP or LVMP ?
Iwata wbx 1.4 classic plus
Hi buddy, I don't think Iwata give it a name but i would class it as a Trans Tech, It's not HVLP as they're normally designed to run at a lover pressure than the 29psi or 2bar of the WBX cap, it's not LVLP as it uses 370lts of air a minute so not LV or LP, it's not LVMP as the volume is too high at 370lts a minute
I have the Bellaria and yes, the same question popped into my head.... Why is the WBX so expensive? That is why I break out my Sata with the WBS in it... Problem solved.
Hi Niam, It's repeated on the W300 range, the WB version is a fair bit more expensive than the standard versions, they are a cracking mini gun btw in WB, the Kiwami4 which in the new Bellaria is again twice the price in WBX and nearly twice the price in WB versions
Are the nozzles wnd caps interchangeable between the two guns?
Hi buddy, Between the WB and WBX, the caps are interchangeable. The tips are exactly the same
Waterborne has so many advantages over solvent the one disadvantage is drying it which makes it unusable in my environment i even tried the mipa accelerator and it still wouldnt flash.
Hi, Yes, i agree, it certainly covers better, doesn't smell as much which may be a big advantage for people at home, better for the environment, much less likely to react with the paint underneath if your doing spot or smart repairs, i had no problems with drying but i appreciate it's only a bike tank, i am going to experiment with thinning/reducing it with alcohol, this should work in that it will mix ok and reduce the basecoat but will dry quickly with a little heat, we shall see, could be a silly idea but that the whole point of trying these thing's , cheers 👍
Heat substrate with propane torch briefly when ready to shoot it's what I do when it's cold
Waterborne SUCKS we only shoot it when the law requires
So the w400 wbx the bellaria wbx and kiwami4 wbx all shoot the same?
Hi Mike, no, the Kiwami4 WBX and W400 WBX shot the same, the Bellaria is a W400 but with a different cap, the BA4-2, so shots slightly differently, it doesn't have a split nozzle that the WBX does so the atomisation isn't as fine, still a great gun though and normally half the price
@@peteshobbies5383 thank you
Your welcome 👍
Does the wbx cap and needle fit on the Kiwami4?
Hi Casper, the needle is shorter on the Kiwami4 and the pitch of the threads are different so they don't interchange, the video below explains it better 👍
ruclips.net/video/InffdpAN-No/видео.html
Well mate you did a better job on yours than I did as mine came out very blotchy and mine was the same make and colour water based basecoat as you used, can you confirm whether or not you added any reducer to yours? as I went by the TDS and added 30% Dima reducer and it took an age to flash with the temp at 21C. I've heard that the clearcoat goes down a lot better over this base compared to solvent but I didn't notice much different as by then mine was totally FUBAR!! 😭😂
Anyway I should have some more coming in the next day or so, this time it's the Octoral W/B basecoat so will see how it goes, thanks for the mention Pete 👏👏👍
Hi John, i used it straight as it was, no reducer at all, it was a little thicker than normal solvent but not as thick as clear so i though it must spray ok, you can't really see but on the paper before i sprayed the tank when the gun was at normal spraying distance it was very blotchy so i tried it further away and it was much better which is why i sprayed it further away, it actually seemed to dry quicker, i have a 18v Makita blower that i was going to put a filter across the intake and blow it but the heat gun was perfect, heat and air, there wasn't a mark on the whole thing, it went on so well, I've since used the same make on my car in the Sri pro lite 1.2 neat and it sprayed fine, again just holding it back further and moving a little faster, it gives excellent coverage.
Don't know how it will be in winter but we will see, I've given up spraying under 5°c as it's hard work, be interesting to see what you think of the Octoral, did you spray as normal or modify your spraying when you tried it?
Hey Pete, I will have to try it again without any reducer but it seemed quite thick to me I might put some through my viscosity tester thingy (you know, the cup with a din4 hole in it) just to see what it is, all I have for drying paint is a ionising hairdryer.
I can't use a heat gun as I'm just on a single phase 13A 3KW supply to my workshop I'm amazed how it runs all my lights 2 big extractor fans and the compressor plus the hairdryer as it is 😬 I thought about running another lead from a different ring main in the house which would give me another 13A supply but it's a lot of messing around.
When I sprayed the W/B basecoat I just did it the same way as I do solvent, one very fine coat then 2 wet coats and a drop coat if needed, tell you what Pete I would love to see you spray W/B using your DV1 base gun as that's all I use now for my basecoat. 🤔👍
EDIT: had to strip the 2 wings that I used wow primer on, when I tried sanding the primer it went through very easily, also noticed that now it's cured it's full of fisheyes, have the High Build primer on stand by ready for round two tomorrow morning 😬👍🙄
I'll give it a try with the DV1 sometime and see how it's goes, you should get away with a heat gun ok as you are only using it after you have stopped spraying so no need for the compressor to be running, that will take the most current so fans etc won't be a problem, just a thought buddy 👍
Yeah that was my thought Pete but I use my air fed mask so the compressor will cut in and knowing my luck I will be using the heat gun at the same time which would probably blow the fuse 😂 look forward to seeing the DV1 with W/B 👍
Hi, Pete, long time no talk!!!
And major diference wbx vs ws400 base and clear version ?
Can y get more flat with ws ?
Hi Ionut, you will get a very flat finish with any off them, the WS400 base is a bit slower for clear and not as good a finish as the WS400 clear and the WBX, all very good though
What would you recommend between devilbiss gti pro lite vs kiwami4?. These 2 guns are on my budget but i'm not sure which one
Hi Zed, That's a really good question, if it's a one gun for all i would recommend the Kiwami4, I think i would still recommend the Gti Pro Lite TE10 for base or TE20 for clear if you were just using one gun for each but the Kiwami4 is a better do it all gun, it's very close though
It will be for clear coat only gun. T110 are good for flat glass finishes right?
@@zed5700 If it's for clear only and you want a flat finish then the T110 is the cap for you, i would recommend 1.2 tip as it gives the flattest finish, it is relatively slow but but works better than a 1.3 or 1.4
@@peteshobbies5383 in my place the humidity are low and the temperature are quite high so i think i will go with the 1.3. How about the air compressor that you are using?. Does gti pro lite uses a lot of air?
For a full size gun they don't use huge amounts, the TE10 and T110 use the least, i have used them on a 50 litre compressor of 14cfm quite happily, if you were doing a complete car in one go you would need more, 2 or 3 panels would be fine.
I have found the 1.3 is just a little bit too much fluid so it doesn't atomise as well as with the 1.2 but you may find different, the needle is the same so you can just try a different tip if needed
Love the video cheers!
Thanks John, much appreciated 👍
Сушити феном металізовану фарбу неможна. Тому що метал не встигне влягтися і буде тирчати то там то там....
Має висихати при 20°с саме .....
Donde compro la wbx
Hola amigo, compré mi Kiwami4 de Painting Tool Japan en Ebay, ellos hacen el WBX Kiwami4, aquí está el enlace.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115188529012?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ywPYxxsmRea&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=v5EZyL9iR9-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰
Thanks buddy 👍
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