Dude I've been wanting to do this for a couple years now and just wasn't sure about all the work I've seen it takes to do this mod! This my friend is freaking fantastic! You must be some kind of genius! Ordering the stuff now!!!!!!
fwh79 I think I got it...just don't understand how the item liked says it's a 20 amp and 2, 15's make 30. Then again, I'm not necessarily a guru with fuses either.
I see you have your mod on display in your profile pic. Looks good! I see on your profile you are still running the turbines. Love that look. Kicking it old school. I remember when I was in High School back in the mid 90's. I saw a late 80's notchback with the turbines on it instead of the stock 10 holes. Looked really good! I don't think I have ever seen a notch back with turbines on it since then. Maybe I should Google search that! People love to hate the turbines. I actually really like em.
I wanna say this is a solid mod. This isn't a solid fix for the overheating though, don't get it confused. The wire gauge is still to small in the original factory fog light wiring. Smaller wire creates more resistance= heat. Then in turn burns up the switch. Going to led fog lights is the easiest fix because it doesn't draw as much current as a standard bulb. This is however a good MOD to have dedicated fog light switch without headlights. My only concern is that your drawing from a source already used, not a dedicated 12v. Worst case you pop a fuse. PSA never use harbor freight fuses
12 volts is 12 volts... your still energizing the same relay either way. I agree with your comment that it is not a fix for the overheating. I personally have never had or seen this overheating problem... only heard about it. LED bulbs are the easiest fix, hid conversion is a good way to go if you want more light than LED can provide. The best solution is to just buy an HID wiring harness and use it to by pass the factory wiring completely. The common fix that involves rewiring the entire switch is completely unneeded and insane considering how cheap and easy it is to just use an HID harness. However, you would only need to do that with the halogen bulbs because they draw much more amperage than LED or HID.
Took Amazon longer to get me my parts than it did to do this mod. Both 11 and 8 on the fuse locater say "Radio" be sure to use #8 that always has.power...once I fixed that, presto! Thanks again!!
Awesome video, the link to the led foglight harness doesn't work. Also, I probably won't need the led foglight harness if im installing led foglights? Correct?
Hey bro good video. I had a question my sons 1987 lx foxbody has 2 red wires on his fuse panel and i see 1 going to one of the slots were does that wire connect to meaning whatvnumber on the chart?
I'm confused on the Add-a-Circuit too. I found the exact one you have at the end of the video, but is says "10 Amps max" on it?? Don't we need at least 30 AMPS, since its 2 15's on it? Would love to do this Mod, just want to make sure I buy the correct one, thanks! Oh! And which blade connector? as I asked below, thank you!
You're welcome. It is very easy. I would recommend an HID conversion. Or if you plan on using the halogens, you should buy a wiring harness for the fog lights. The harness will be able to handle the load of the 55w fog lights much better than the factory wiring.
Sorry dude... I didn't notice your comment until today! I personally have not had any problems with the case melting. That would probably be an issue if you use a 55w HID kit. I always run the 35w kits with great success. Happy holidays Morbid!
Someone redid some wiring on mine and changed out a lot of stuff..... I used the headlight fuse and added the circuit there and it runs them independent as well
Had a new 86 G.T. the fog lamps worked independently from the headloghts, good vid though. Maybe the Aero nose 87 -93 worked together with the headlamps?
I just did this mod (but I used a 10 amp fuse to go to the fog light hole instead of a 15 amp fuse) and when I took it out for a test drive, my check engine light started to blink intermittently. Any ideas???
@@fwh79FOXR6 91 GT convertible. Incidentally, I unhooked the negative battery cable for 20 minutes and I switched out the 10 amp fuse with a 15 amp. After all of that, the check engine light came on a couple times while driving but it has stayed off and not returned for a while so I think maybe it was a glitch or the computer just needed to relearn something. Do you think the blinking check engine light had anything to do with the mod?
@@Brad-lt9qh I wouldn't worry about it. Seems like a coincidence that the light came on after doing the rewiring. These cars are getting so old, a check engine light flashing for no reason is not out of the ordinary. Both of my 1990 Gt Mustangs will randomly flash the air bag light. However, if the light comes back, you should consider scanning for trouble codes. You might have a problem you are unaware of.
1. Your fuse box is rotated 90deg clockwise from factory, so up & down become left & right. 2. Orientation of add-a-circuit is also important. If you have it reversed (don't think you do), you are feeding the fog lights through both fuses. This could overload the #8 fuse if the power mirrors are operated while the fog lights are on.
It seems you do not fully understand how add-a-circuit works. Perhaps I can help explain it to you. The original circuit has it's own fuse, the added circuit has it's own fuse... an added circuit (it's not possible to feed the fog lights from both fuses when they are two separate circuits). The fog lights are not being "feed" any power from the fuse box. The added circuit is feeding power to the RELAY that controls the activation of the fog lights. So when you make this modification you are bypassing the way the factory wiring sends power to the fog light RELAY. In the factory set up you do not have power to the fog light relay until the headlight switch is in the on position. That headlight switch feeds power to the relay that allows the fog light switch to become active or "hot/12 volts". Most people in the comment section understand this because they are, rightful so, concerned with the factory switch still overheating. I have made multiple replies to these concerns stating that this will not fix any overheating situation caused by using the factory HALOGEN bulbs. I have offered the solutions of 1. Convert to HID 2. Use an LED bulb or 3. Use an HID WIRING HARNESS to feed power to your halogen bulbs. I have no idea why anyone in the year 2017 would be interested in using halogens (HID conversions and LED bulbs became very cost effective in 2011)... when the wiring harness would be a much easier solution to rewiring a switch to handle the high current demand of halogen bulbs. A much easier to install and cost effective solution is readily available in the form of the HID harness. I hope you have not taken offense to my reply, I am simply trying to provide you with a better understanding of the process. And further more... no one should modify any vehicle without a full understanding of the process/consequences of their actions. It is the sole discretion of the owner to decide to modify a vehicle in any way. If they do not fully understand the process, perhaps they should rethink their actions. My fathers 1990 Mustang GT (purchased new) has been running this mod since 1994 with zero issues. However, past performance is no indication of future performance. Although I have heard my stories about overheating headlight switches, I have never experienced that problem first hand. Thank you for your comment and happy holidays my friend.
It appears that you are the one that doesn't fully understand, so let me educate you. I have owned, since new, an '88 Mustang & have 2 degrees in electrical engineering,. There are no relays for the headlights or for the fog lights. They did make some changes in 1990. I believe any relay additions were done by the owners, but I'm not sure. The Corral & Tmoss have had the DIY modification for many years. I have all the factory service manuals & wiring diagrams & the EVTM for 1988. I have first hand experience with the overheating headlamp circuit. After about 20 minutes with my headlights and fog lights on at the same time, the headlights turn off & on every few seconds. It was covered in Ford TSB 89-17-11. It's a phenomenon affecting '83-'89 Escorts, '83-'87 EXPs and '87-'88 Mustangs. The factory fix was to replace the headlamp and dimmer switches, several connectors, and then bypass the wiring in the circuit with new 12ga wire run alongside the original harness. The dealer did this for me for a shared expense since it was not a recall. I only found your video when I decided to change the fog lights to daytime running lights. I did the design & then searched online & found you did the same thing 6 months prior. Therefore, the #2 comment I made is valid for all years & must be adhered to for the early years & maybe later years, too. Ask you father if he did the DIY mod or if it came that way from the factory. I've been asking the other "experts" & no one seems to know. Not many original owners left. You can buy the add-a-circuit on eBay for $1. They are exactly the same as the auto store's minus the fancy package, some come with fuses, some don't. You don't need the fuses since the ones you need are already being used. You only have to move them to the add-a-circuit. This stuff is not new to me. I'm probably older than your father. I've been a Corral member since 1999. Founding member of Stangnet Corral: forums.corral.net/forums/ TMoss website; www.veryuseful.com/
Ok... I don't really care about how many "degrees" you have dude. I hope you don't take this as me wanting to fight with you... cause I don't. However, I know plenty of people who have more degrees than a thermometer and still can't tie their own shoes. I have also worked with plenty of ICAR trained techs that do not know how to fix cars properly. So your back ground really means nothing to me. I don't understand what you are asking me. My father did the same mode that I show in the video. Did not add a relay or have Ford make any modifications to the car for the fog lights. If you are looking to make your fog lights a DRL all you need to do is wire them to a key on hot circuit. Although a true DRL will run the halogen bulb at 50% power, a direct wiring job with not provide the 50% cut voltage... as I'm sure you understand already if you have an electrical wiring degree. Did that to my dad's Lightning in this video (wired as a DRL with not voltage cut because the headlight has LED aceent lights) ruclips.net/video/3SJddv8016o/видео.html I understand the thread you are referring to on corral, I personally feel that way is obsolete because of the HID harnesses you can buy now. This video shows the harness I am talking about ruclips.net/video/pM2C1CE1rPw/видео.html I don't know if you are looking to keep the halogens or not. Or if you want a true DRL with the voltage cut. Like I stated earlier... I am not here to fight with people. I just want to share info with other car guys so we can all enjoy our cars. No disrespect to you. If you're an old school stang banger, you have my respect. I grew up with these cars and Super Ford magazine. I hope this helps you and if you have any more questions please feel free to ask.
Excellent video man,subscribed,just wanted to add that i noticed in several posts you mentioned you have never experienced the overheating issue etc, you need to go buy you a lottery ticket, i grew up with these cars just like you and at the moment own 2 GT's, one i have been driving for the last 20 years pretty much as a daily driver and know plenty of people that own these cars and every single one has this issue (probably because they were all wired with that skinny ass wire) so again consider yourself lucky,my convertible will run foglights and lights for about 2 minutes before it starts "doing the disco" lol, I'm gonna try this fix you have here, looks simple and safe enough,i did have some other questions about a other issue and wanted to ask you about those Hid wiring harnesses,would that be cool if i send you a private message thru RUclips?
dntlss: Yeah, I think are right! I have heard several stories about the light switch over heating from many people. They always look at me funny when I say that I never had that problem. Maybe my car had the one good switch or accidentally had better wiring some how. Just so you know, this wiring should not help you out if you have an over heating switch problem. This mod is just to be able to turn the fogs on without the head lights. I had a few guys on here say there were going to do the mod and let me know it it helped the over heating problem (which it shouldn't), but I haven't heard anything back from them yet. If you need to ask me a question I would prefer you do it on here so other people can see and possibly learn something. If you want to send a private message, that's fine with me too.
Thank you so much for the quick reply man,yeah i am aware that it wont help the overheating issue,sorry i wasn't very clear ,i would just really like to be able to turn my fog lights on without having to turn my headlights on so this video helps out tremendously,the reason i asked to send you a message thru RUclips is because i have a issue with my inertia switch plug and i just didn't want to derail the conversations about foglights with something totally different but if your OK with that ill post it here in the next few minutes. i just wanted to get your opinion on something since it seems you mess with electrical things quite a bit.
dntlss: You're welcome. Ok, just so you know for sure about the mod. I am actually thinking about installing a harness I have on this black car just to show people how to do that. Yeah man, just post your question here. I don't mind. You can ask me any question on any video I have.
Cool,yeah the question was, on my 91Gt convertible here recently i was inspecting some stuff and i found my inertia switch plug was melted a bit,as you are aware the inertia switch sits on the inside back panel of the trunk next to the taillights. What it does is, if you have a wreck it shuts the fuel to the fuel pump that way if a line is severed it wont keep spraying fuel all over the place,this plug is wired to the fuel pump and also to the fuel pump relay under the seat of your car,i have a walbro 255 fuel pump, not sure why, i dont have a blower or any other power adder, its just what i put in it about 9 years ago,i do have the bigger alternator conversion and i also have a electric fan. About a year ago this guy slammed into the back of my car tripping that inertia switch so in order to restart the car i had to reset it, the reason that plug is melted is because something is pulling too much current which i suspect it might be the fuel pump,maybe in that wreck the fuel pump was injured, just wanted to add the car runs just fine and only one of the wires is causing the plug to melt,its a purplish with a black stripe i believe,thats the wire coming from the fuel pump. Now here's another thing ,i have read about several Ford rangers and Broncos having this problem (they use the same system),today i drove the car for about 30 miles and when i got home i opened my trunk and felt that cable, it wasn't hot,just kinda lightly warm if that, maybe this was a one time deal when that wreck happened? i do know these walbros are famous for pulling a lot of voltage so maybe its a situation kinda like the headlight switch, too much current is pulled by the pump then heating up the wire? sorry for the long post,like i i said the car runs fine but I'm not too fond of melted plugs specially dealing with fuel,I'm actually thinking of dropping the tank and inspecting that pump very carefully and maybe going to a 155.
Maybe the inertia switch itself is damaged. I would think that, if it was damaged, it would just quit working. I'm not sure. The inertia switch is another area I have never had a problem with. I hear stories about inertia switch issues all the time as well. The fuel pump is wired to a fuse link under the hood. If the pump was shorting out, the fuse link would burn up. Maybe some of the fuel pump wiring was pinched from the accident and it is creating high resistance but it is not enough to dead short the wire and burn up the fuse link. I would see if there is a test for the inertia switch first. Maybe there is a resistance test for it. You would have to look into that. Be sure to inspect all the pump wiring for damage. I would say that dropping the tank and changing the fuel pump out is a good idea. The 255 pump is way over kill for most 5.0's that are not running a power adder. All that extra volume is going to waste circulating through the pressure regulator and back to the tank. I'm sure all that big pump is really doing, is warming up your fuel =) Feel free to ask any question you have and make as long of a post as you need. I am more than happy to help someone out when I can.
Jerry Wilson: I'm not sure, I think it plugs into some kind of module under the dash. This black car was an AOD to T5 swap. Maybe that has something to do with it.
Im gonna do this very soon. It seems they re did the wiring connectors on my fox and fixed the fog light wire overheating issue so i should be fine. Im getting led or hid fogs later anyways. They sell a kit for fixing the overheating at lmr btw.
Yes! and i finally got around to remembering to buy this part so i just ordered it. Im getting leds and hids and clear headlights and fogs when my tax return comes,should look even sharper. Do you have instagram by any chance? If you do add me: morbidsvtcobra
Sorry, don't have an instagram. Yeah, that should look really sweet when you are finished. The clear headlights make a huge difference in beam pattern. Combo that with HID and the results are amazing. You should make a video when you get her all done.
Jovan Solomon: You can use halogen bulbs. However, LED bulbs will draw far less power from the charging system. 87 - 89 Mustangs are known for having headlight switch overheating problems when running the fog lights with the headlights on for extended periods.
Question for you my dash light is not working what can I do I’ve tried New dimmer switch that didn’t work I got a different dash and that didn’t work. I’ve checked all fuses and they’re all good . Let me know what I can try . Thanks again
Abel Herrera: Keep in mind, just because a part is new doesn't mean it is working. You would need to check the 15 amp fuse for the instrument cluster, the dimmer switch, the light switch on the dash, and the wiring harness that connects to the instrument cluster. Most of the time, the dimmer switch will cause a problem. Usually just cleaning the dimmer switch will fix it. If you haven't checked the light switch yet, I would look into that.
I have no experience with the 1986 model mustang fog lights. However, I did search some wiring diagrams and found that your fog lights are powered by a fuse link. The fuse link is basically what was used before under hood fuse panels. So my best suggestion for you is to buy an aftermarket harness and wire it to a new switch. You may be able to wire it to the existing switch in the car, but I have no idea what that switch looks like or how it works. So that is your call. I have a few videos that may help you do this. First watch this video about the harness made by DDM Tuning. ruclips.net/video/i7weL9ZkXCY/видео.html You could probably find any hid harness on amazon or ebay that would pretty much be the same thing. Then watch the video I made about my escort fog lights. ruclips.net/video/7RySVgLwEF0/видео.html That video should help you understand what you need to do. You are just making your own circuit to power the fog lights and by passing the factory harness. Plus, the HID harness is a much safer way to power your fog lights as the factory harness and relay are known for burning up. The fog lights consume 55w of power, which is a lot of current. You can also watch the videos I did for my Lincoln. I rewired the high beams, it is the same concept of using the HID harness to alter your control of lighting. Video one ruclips.net/video/pM2C1CE1rPw/видео.html Video two ruclips.net/video/hMKBFmqkMyM/видео.html
I can't say for sure because I have never had that problem. Doing an HID conversion would help out with that issue because HID draws less amperage. Or rewiring your fog lamps with the wiring harness most HID kit sellers use would be the best fix for that. Watch these videos for more info. Harness video ruclips.net/video/i7weL9ZkXCY/видео.html Rewiring I did on my Escort zx2 ruclips.net/video/7RySVgLwEF0/видео.html Rewiring I did on my Lincoln ruclips.net/video/pM2C1CE1rPw/видео.html
fwh79 I'm going to give this a try. I've seen that many people go with the rewiring diagram that's on Corral.net and looks like to much wiring is involved the one you did seems a lot more straight forward. I'm going to try this out thanks man!
You're welcome. Please let me know how it goes for you. I'm curious to see if you have the same problem after doing this. You are right, I have seen that diagram on corral and that process is really involved! I'm not sure what year that was made, but It must be pretty old. It is well done but you could achieve the same results now using the HID wiring harness and not completely tear apart your dash.
fwh79 I just finished with the same setup you did and now I'm wondering if it's totally safe lol hate anything that has to do with electrical, so far it works 👍
That's good to hear. Thank you for updating me. Please let me know if you have any issues with it. I am considering making a video about installing a wiring harness for the fog lamps. Seems like it is a very common issue. I just need to find time to make it. Been busy trying to install long tube headers on my dad's car.
@@skullman9191 It seems that the 87 to 89 cars have fog light wiring issues that were corrected in 90. There must be a dead short some where for you to be blowing fuses like that. Check the bulbs and then look over the wiring harness. You may have a wire shorting to ground, which is blowing the fuse. Those fog light bulbs are really odd, they way they connect and ground in the housing.
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By far the easiest coolest mod I have ever done, thanks for sharing. There was no way I was going to run a harness.
You're welcome! Thank you for your kind words.
Dude I've been wanting to do this for a couple years now and just wasn't sure about all the work I've seen it takes to do this mod! This my friend is freaking fantastic! You must be some kind of genius! Ordering the stuff now!!!!!!
Rick Chatfield: Thanks Rick. Let me know how it goes for ya. What year Stang do you have?
NEVERMIND! I just seen you linked everything in the description! DOPE!Subscribed, thank you!!
You're welcome! Thank you for the sub and if you have any questions, be sure to ask me. I'd be happy to help you.
fwh79 I think I got it...just don't understand how the item liked says it's a 20 amp and 2, 15's make 30. Then again, I'm not necessarily a guru with fuses either.
If you found this video helpful, please subscribe to my channel. I need your help to break 1,000 subs! Thank you!
That's pretty slick!I'm going to have to try it on mine. Thanks for the info!
You're welcome. Yeah, this works out pretty good.
Awesome video, just did it, don’t get much simpler, THANK YOU!
Ervin Henschel: You're welcome. Glad you like the mod.
I see you have your mod on display in your profile pic. Looks good! I see on your profile you are still running the turbines. Love that look. Kicking it old school. I remember when I was in High School back in the mid 90's. I saw a late 80's notchback with the turbines on it instead of the stock 10 holes. Looked really good! I don't think I have ever seen a notch back with turbines on it since then. Maybe I should Google search that! People love to hate the turbines. I actually really like em.
Great idea and video. Simple. Works great! Thanks!
You're welcome.
Thanks for the info. Just installed it and it works great.
You're welcome.
I wanna say this is a solid mod. This isn't a solid fix for the overheating though, don't get it confused. The wire gauge is still to small in the original factory fog light wiring. Smaller wire creates more resistance= heat. Then in turn burns up the switch. Going to led fog lights is the easiest fix because it doesn't draw as much current as a standard bulb. This is however a good MOD to have dedicated fog light switch without headlights. My only concern is that your drawing from a source already used, not a dedicated 12v. Worst case you pop a fuse.
PSA never use harbor freight fuses
12 volts is 12 volts... your still energizing the same relay either way. I agree with your comment that it is not a fix for the overheating. I personally have never had or seen this overheating problem... only heard about it. LED bulbs are the easiest fix, hid conversion is a good way to go if you want more light than LED can provide. The best solution is to just buy an HID wiring harness and use it to by pass the factory wiring completely. The common fix that involves rewiring the entire switch is completely unneeded and insane considering how cheap and easy it is to just use an HID harness. However, you would only need to do that with the halogen bulbs because they draw much more amperage than LED or HID.
Worked like a charm! Thanks man!
Subscribed as well!
You're welcome Jay. Thanks for the sub brother, it means a lot to me. I'm trying to break 1,000 subs and it has been painful to say the least!
Took Amazon longer to get me my parts than it did to do this mod.
Both 11 and 8 on the fuse locater say "Radio" be sure to use #8 that always has.power...once I fixed that, presto!
Thanks again!!
You're very welcome. Thank you for the feed back brother!
Awesome video, the link to the led foglight harness doesn't work. Also, I probably won't need the led foglight harness if im installing led foglights? Correct?
Hey bro good video. I had a question my sons 1987 lx foxbody has 2 red wires on his fuse panel and i see 1 going to one of the slots were does that wire connect to meaning whatvnumber on the chart?
thanks it worked just as you said.
You're welcome. Thank you for watching.
I'm confused on the Add-a-Circuit too. I found the exact one you have at the end of the video, but is says "10 Amps max" on it?? Don't we need at least 30 AMPS, since its 2 15's on it? Would love to do this Mod, just want to make sure I buy the correct one, thanks! Oh! And which blade connector? as I asked below, thank you!
Really wish he replied to this message
@@joeyb_32 it's in the description of the video
👍 thanks for the idea. looks real easy.
You're welcome. It is very easy. I would recommend an HID conversion. Or if you plan on using the halogens, you should buy a wiring harness for the fog lights. The harness will be able to handle the load of the 55w fog lights much better than the factory wiring.
So your fogs are hids? wont they melt the casing with the heat?
Sorry dude... I didn't notice your comment until today! I personally have not had any problems with the case melting. That would probably be an issue if you use a 55w HID kit. I always run the 35w kits with great success. Happy holidays Morbid!
@@fwh79FOXR6if mine is a factory setup do I have to worry about melting or fire?
@@tonyo3856 What year is your Mustang?
Excellent video. Will the fuse box cover still fit over the Add-A-Circuit ?
Someone redid some wiring on mine and changed out a lot of stuff..... I used the headlight fuse and added the circuit there and it runs them independent as well
Patrick Rice: Nice! What year do you have?
fwh79 I have a 1992 Mustang Gt convertible white with white top.... I have a few things unplugged under my dash but everything works so
@@MoneyMakerRice41 As long as it all works... that's all that matters.
fwh79 right fuck it it is what it is like you told the one guy above you can do it whatever any you want up to the person
Had a new 86 G.T. the fog lamps worked independently from the headloghts, good vid though. Maybe the Aero nose 87 -93 worked together with the headlamps?
Michael Demos: That is correct. The fog lights on the 87-93 cars would not come on unless the headlights were on.
Do you remember the exact model numbers from the packaging? I clicked the link you left in the description, but it no longer works.
I just did this mod (but I used a 10 amp fuse to go to the fog light hole instead of a 15 amp fuse) and when I took it out for a test drive, my check engine light started to blink intermittently. Any ideas???
Brad: What year is your Mustang?
@@fwh79FOXR6 91 GT convertible. Incidentally, I unhooked the negative battery cable for 20 minutes and I switched out the 10 amp fuse with a 15 amp. After all of that, the check engine light came on a couple times while driving but it has stayed off and not returned for a while so I think maybe it was a glitch or the computer just needed to relearn something. Do you think the blinking check engine light had anything to do with the mod?
@@Brad-lt9qh I wouldn't worry about it. Seems like a coincidence that the light came on after doing the rewiring. These cars are getting so old, a check engine light flashing for no reason is not out of the ordinary. Both of my 1990 Gt Mustangs will randomly flash the air bag light. However, if the light comes back, you should consider scanning for trouble codes. You might have a problem you are unaware of.
Appreciate the follow up man!
@@Brad-lt9qh You're welcome. Always happy to help out.
Excellent info
Thank you.
This is great i just did this to my 90 Gt
Nice!
I have an 88 gt with the fog light recall that was never fixed, the switch overheats and I think I have to install a relay or something.
1. Your fuse box is rotated 90deg clockwise from factory, so up & down become left & right.
2. Orientation of add-a-circuit is also important. If you have it reversed (don't think you do), you are feeding the fog lights through both fuses. This could overload the #8 fuse if the power mirrors are operated while the fog lights are on.
It seems you do not fully understand how add-a-circuit works. Perhaps I can help explain it to you. The original circuit has it's own fuse, the added circuit has it's own fuse... an added circuit (it's not possible to feed the fog lights from both fuses when they are two separate circuits). The fog lights are not being "feed" any power from the fuse box. The added circuit is feeding power to the RELAY that controls the activation of the fog lights. So when you make this modification you are bypassing the way the factory wiring sends power to the fog light RELAY. In the factory set up you do not have power to the fog light relay until the headlight switch is in the on position. That headlight switch feeds power to the relay that allows the fog light switch to become active or "hot/12 volts". Most people in the comment section understand this because they are, rightful so, concerned with the factory switch still overheating. I have made multiple replies to these concerns stating that this will not fix any overheating situation caused by using the factory HALOGEN bulbs. I have offered the solutions of 1. Convert to HID 2. Use an LED bulb or 3. Use an HID WIRING HARNESS to feed power to your halogen bulbs. I have no idea why anyone in the year 2017 would be interested in using halogens (HID conversions and LED bulbs became very cost effective in 2011)... when the wiring harness would be a much easier solution to rewiring a switch to handle the high current demand of halogen bulbs. A much easier to install and cost effective solution is readily available in the form of the HID harness. I hope you have not taken offense to my reply, I am simply trying to provide you with a better understanding of the process. And further more... no one should modify any vehicle without a full understanding of the process/consequences of their actions. It is the sole discretion of the owner to decide to modify a vehicle in any way. If they do not fully understand the process, perhaps they should rethink their actions. My fathers 1990 Mustang GT (purchased new) has been running this mod since 1994 with zero issues. However, past performance is no indication of future performance. Although I have heard my stories about overheating headlight switches, I have never experienced that problem first hand. Thank you for your comment and happy holidays my friend.
It appears that you are the one that doesn't fully understand, so let me educate you. I have owned, since new, an '88 Mustang & have 2 degrees in electrical engineering,. There are no relays for the headlights or for the fog lights. They did make some changes in 1990. I believe any relay additions were done by the owners, but I'm not sure. The Corral & Tmoss have had the DIY modification for many years. I have all the factory service manuals & wiring diagrams & the EVTM for 1988. I have first hand experience with the overheating headlamp circuit. After about 20 minutes with my headlights and fog lights on at the same time, the headlights turn off & on every few seconds. It was covered in Ford TSB 89-17-11. It's a phenomenon affecting '83-'89 Escorts, '83-'87 EXPs and '87-'88 Mustangs. The factory fix was to replace the headlamp and dimmer switches, several connectors, and then bypass the wiring in the circuit with new 12ga wire run alongside the original harness. The dealer did this for me for a shared expense since it was not a recall. I only found your video when I decided to change the fog lights to daytime running lights. I did the design & then searched online & found you did the same thing 6 months prior. Therefore, the #2 comment I made is valid for all years & must be adhered to for the early years & maybe later years, too. Ask you father if he did the DIY mod or if it came that way from the factory. I've been asking the other "experts" & no one seems to know. Not many original owners left.
You can buy the add-a-circuit on eBay for $1. They are exactly the same as the auto store's minus the fancy package, some come with fuses, some don't. You don't need the fuses since the ones you need are already being used. You only have to move them to the add-a-circuit.
This stuff is not new to me. I'm probably older than your father.
I've been a Corral member since 1999.
Founding member of Stangnet
Corral: forums.corral.net/forums/
TMoss website; www.veryuseful.com/
Ok... I don't really care about how many "degrees" you have dude. I hope you don't take this as me wanting to fight with you... cause I don't. However, I know plenty of people who have more degrees than a thermometer and still can't tie their own shoes. I have also worked with plenty of ICAR trained techs that do not know how to fix cars properly. So your back ground really means nothing to me. I don't understand what you are asking me. My father did the same mode that I show in the video. Did not add a relay or have Ford make any modifications to the car for the fog lights. If you are looking to make your fog lights a DRL all you need to do is wire them to a key on hot circuit. Although a true DRL will run the halogen bulb at 50% power, a direct wiring job with not provide the 50% cut voltage... as I'm sure you understand already if you have an electrical wiring degree. Did that to my dad's Lightning in this video (wired as a DRL with not voltage cut because the headlight has LED aceent lights) ruclips.net/video/3SJddv8016o/видео.html
I understand the thread you are referring to on corral, I personally feel that way is obsolete because of the HID harnesses you can buy now. This video shows the harness I am talking about ruclips.net/video/pM2C1CE1rPw/видео.html
I don't know if you are looking to keep the halogens or not. Or if you want a true DRL with the voltage cut.
Like I stated earlier... I am not here to fight with people. I just want to share info with other car guys so we can all enjoy our cars. No disrespect to you. If you're an old school stang banger, you have my respect. I grew up with these cars and Super Ford magazine. I hope this helps you and if you have any more questions please feel free to ask.
Excellent video man,subscribed,just wanted to add that i noticed in several posts you mentioned you have never experienced the overheating issue etc, you need to go buy you a lottery ticket, i grew up with these cars just like you and at the moment own 2 GT's, one i have been driving for the last 20 years pretty much as a daily driver and know plenty of people that own these cars and every single one has this issue (probably because they were all wired with that skinny ass wire) so again consider yourself lucky,my convertible will run foglights and lights for about 2 minutes before it starts "doing the disco" lol, I'm gonna try this fix you have here, looks simple and safe enough,i did have some other questions about a other issue and wanted to ask you about those Hid wiring harnesses,would that be cool if i send you a private message thru RUclips?
dntlss: Yeah, I think are right! I have heard several stories about the light switch over heating from many people. They always look at me funny when I say that I never had that problem. Maybe my car had the one good switch or accidentally had better wiring some how. Just so you know, this wiring should not help you out if you have an over heating switch problem. This mod is just to be able to turn the fogs on without the head lights. I had a few guys on here say there were going to do the mod and let me know it it helped the over heating problem (which it shouldn't), but I haven't heard anything back from them yet. If you need to ask me a question I would prefer you do it on here so other people can see and possibly learn something. If you want to send a private message, that's fine with me too.
Thank you so much for the quick reply man,yeah i am aware that it wont help the overheating issue,sorry i wasn't very clear ,i would just really like to be able to turn my fog lights on without having to turn my headlights on so this video helps out tremendously,the reason i asked to send you a message thru RUclips is because i have a issue with my inertia switch plug and i just didn't want to derail the conversations about foglights with something totally different but if your OK with that ill post it here in the next few minutes. i just wanted to get your opinion on something since it seems you mess with electrical things quite a bit.
dntlss: You're welcome. Ok, just so you know for sure about the mod. I am actually thinking about installing a harness I have on this black car just to show people how to do that. Yeah man, just post your question here. I don't mind. You can ask me any question on any video I have.
Cool,yeah the question was, on my 91Gt convertible here recently i was inspecting some stuff and i found my inertia switch plug was melted a bit,as you are aware the inertia switch sits on the inside back panel of the trunk next to the taillights.
What it does is, if you have a wreck it shuts the fuel to the fuel pump that way if a line is severed it wont keep spraying fuel all over the place,this plug is wired to the fuel pump and also to the fuel pump relay under the seat of your car,i have a walbro 255 fuel pump, not sure why, i dont have a blower or any other power adder, its just what i put in it about 9 years ago,i do have the bigger alternator conversion and i also have a electric fan.
About a year ago this guy slammed into the back of my car tripping that inertia switch so in order to restart the car i had to reset it, the reason that plug is melted is because something is pulling too much current which i suspect it might be the fuel pump,maybe in that wreck the fuel pump was injured, just wanted to add the car runs just fine and only one of the wires is causing the plug to melt,its a purplish with a black stripe i believe,thats the wire coming from the fuel pump.
Now here's another thing ,i have read about several Ford rangers and Broncos having this problem (they use the same system),today i drove the car for about 30 miles and when i got home i opened my trunk and felt that cable, it wasn't hot,just kinda lightly warm if that, maybe this was a one time deal when that wreck happened? i do know these walbros are famous for pulling a lot of voltage so maybe its a situation kinda like the headlight switch, too much current is pulled by the pump then heating up the wire? sorry for the long post,like i i said the car runs fine but I'm not too fond of melted plugs specially dealing with fuel,I'm actually thinking of dropping the tank and inspecting that pump very carefully and maybe going to a 155.
Maybe the inertia switch itself is damaged. I would think that, if it was damaged, it would just quit working. I'm not sure. The inertia switch is another area I have never had a problem with. I hear stories about inertia switch issues all the time as well. The fuel pump is wired to a fuse link under the hood. If the pump was shorting out, the fuse link would burn up. Maybe some of the fuel pump wiring was pinched from the accident and it is creating high resistance but it is not enough to dead short the wire and burn up the fuse link. I would see if there is a test for the inertia switch first. Maybe there is a resistance test for it. You would have to look into that. Be sure to inspect all the pump wiring for damage. I would say that dropping the tank and changing the fuel pump out is a good idea. The 255 pump is way over kill for most 5.0's that are not running a power adder. All that extra volume is going to waste circulating through the pressure regulator and back to the tank. I'm sure all that big pump is really doing, is warming up your fuel =) Feel free to ask any question you have and make as long of a post as you need. I am more than happy to help someone out when I can.
Where does the white harness plug to the right plug into? I can’t figure out where it goes. Thank you
Jerry Wilson: I'm not sure, I think it plugs into some kind of module under the dash. This black car was an AOD to T5 swap. Maybe that has something to do with it.
Oh ok cuz I just got an AOD and it has it unplugged but I plan on doing a t5 swap later. Thank you
@@jerrywilson9655 You're welcome.
Im gonna do this very soon. It seems they re did the wiring connectors on my fox and fixed the fog light wire overheating issue so i should be fine. Im getting led or hid fogs later anyways. They sell a kit for fixing the overheating at lmr btw.
I didn't know LMR had a kit. I'll have to check that out. This is a really cool mod though. Gotta love the look of marker lights and fogs.
Yes! and i finally got around to remembering to buy this part so i just ordered it. Im getting leds and hids and clear headlights and fogs when my tax return comes,should look even sharper. Do you have instagram by any chance? If you do add me: morbidsvtcobra
Sorry, don't have an instagram. Yeah, that should look really sweet when you are finished. The clear headlights make a huge difference in beam pattern. Combo that with HID and the results are amazing. You should make a video when you get her all done.
Thanks you it work.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching.
Can you use regular halogen bulbs or do you need to use LED bulbs?
Jovan Solomon: You can use halogen bulbs. However, LED bulbs will draw far less power from the charging system. 87 - 89 Mustangs are known for having headlight switch overheating problems when running the fog lights with the headlights on for extended periods.
@@fwh79FOXR6 thank you very much. I appreciate the info
@@jovansolomon9871 You're welcome
Question for you my dash light is not working what can I do I’ve tried New dimmer switch that didn’t work I got a different dash and that didn’t work. I’ve checked all fuses and they’re all good . Let me know what I can try . Thanks again
Abel Herrera: Keep in mind, just because a part is new doesn't mean it is working. You would need to check the 15 amp fuse for the instrument cluster, the dimmer switch, the light switch on the dash, and the wiring harness that connects to the instrument cluster. Most of the time, the dimmer switch will cause a problem. Usually just cleaning the dimmer switch will fix it. If you haven't checked the light switch yet, I would look into that.
What kind of blade connector do I use? Amp?
Damn good info
Thank you.
My 86 GT doesn't have a fuse for the fog lights. So now what do I do?
I have no experience with the 1986 model mustang fog lights. However, I did search some wiring diagrams and found that your fog lights are powered by a fuse link. The fuse link is basically what was used before under hood fuse panels. So my best suggestion for you is to buy an aftermarket harness and wire it to a new switch. You may be able to wire it to the existing switch in the car, but I have no idea what that switch looks like or how it works. So that is your call. I have a few videos that may help you do this. First watch this video about the harness made by DDM Tuning. ruclips.net/video/i7weL9ZkXCY/видео.html You could probably find any hid harness on amazon or ebay that would pretty much be the same thing. Then watch the video I made about my escort fog lights. ruclips.net/video/7RySVgLwEF0/видео.html That video should help you understand what you need to do. You are just making your own circuit to power the fog lights and by passing the factory harness. Plus, the HID harness is a much safer way to power your fog lights as the factory harness and relay are known for burning up. The fog lights consume 55w of power, which is a lot of current. You can also watch the videos I did for my Lincoln. I rewired the high beams, it is the same concept of using the HID harness to alter your control of lighting. Video one ruclips.net/video/pM2C1CE1rPw/видео.html Video two ruclips.net/video/hMKBFmqkMyM/видео.html
by doing this will it stop making the headlight switch from overheating? causing the lights to flash on and off at night
I can't say for sure because I have never had that problem. Doing an HID conversion would help out with that issue because HID draws less amperage. Or rewiring your fog lamps with the wiring harness most HID kit sellers use would be the best fix for that. Watch these videos for more info.
Harness video ruclips.net/video/i7weL9ZkXCY/видео.html
Rewiring I did on my Escort zx2 ruclips.net/video/7RySVgLwEF0/видео.html
Rewiring I did on my Lincoln ruclips.net/video/pM2C1CE1rPw/видео.html
fwh79 I'm going to give this a try. I've seen that many people go with the rewiring diagram that's on Corral.net and looks like to much wiring is involved the one you did seems a lot more straight forward. I'm going to try this out thanks man!
You're welcome. Please let me know how it goes for you. I'm curious to see if you have the same problem after doing this. You are right, I have seen that diagram on corral and that process is really involved! I'm not sure what year that was made, but It must be pretty old. It is well done but you could achieve the same results now using the HID wiring harness and not completely tear apart your dash.
fwh79 I just finished with the same setup you did and now I'm wondering if it's totally safe lol hate anything that has to do with electrical, so far it works 👍
That's good to hear. Thank you for updating me. Please let me know if you have any issues with it. I am considering making a video about installing a wiring harness for the fog lamps. Seems like it is a very common issue. I just need to find time to make it. Been busy trying to install long tube headers on my dad's car.
What year is this FOX?
HooperWest: 1990
I did this and the fuse blows every time. I even took out the add a circuit and it’s still blowing. Could it be the new bulbs ?
Skull Man: What year is your Stang?
fwh79 1988. But I also didn’t use the same bulbs. I ordered new bulbs from LMR. I’m guessing thats probably the issue.
fwh79 the bulbs I got I just noticed are 6500k. I ordered the 6000k now
@@skullman9191 It seems that the 87 to 89 cars have fog light wiring issues that were corrected in 90. There must be a dead short some where for you to be blowing fuses like that. Check the bulbs and then look over the wiring harness. You may have a wire shorting to ground, which is blowing the fuse. Those fog light bulbs are really odd, they way they connect and ground in the housing.
@@skullman9191 Did you pick up halogen bulbs?
What gauge wired did you use?
I think it was 18 awg
@@fwh79FOXR6 Thank you.
@@sijonda You're welcome