Jeff Thorman (from Canada) colored his mud a few years back in his drywall mudding videos. I think I've seen someone else on RUclips do it as well, but they used a much lighter color. They said to stay away from black or red. Blue and beige or other light colors are fine. I do wonder if the chalk will effect the chemical reaction at all and overall stability of the mud. That said, this is still very cool and helpful.
Dude is living the dream,doing man's work with your son and sharing old tricks of the trade. Rare breed of old dog that can learn new tricks,therefore he has yet to peak. The kid is going to be the ultimate tradesman. Both keep making priceless memories.
Working with my son doing drywall when he was younger kept him in school, then college and now runs two charter fishing boats. He knew right away he didn't want to do drywall for a living and I don't blame him.
Glad to see someone else is mudding half a corner and letting it dry. Do it first in the morning, and usually the second side is ready in the afternoon (depending on humidity and temp). I would trust SP to do any work for me because your integrity and commitment to excellence are obvious. Thanks for doing the right thing right! It seems integrity is in short supply in our culture these days. 🙏🏻
Pro's will add 30, 60, 90 minute dry patch to the mud and do one side ,,, by the time their done with the left side where they started is set and ready to go! But remember I said PRO'S!!! They know from experience!! This guy gives very good DIY tips!! Good day!
Yeah adding 45 or 90 minute mud really speeds up your taping i usually pull one side of my tape and skim at the same time ive never had a problem as long as it's a light pull over your tape it saves alot of that damn ladder work walls to ceiling good video thanks
Integrity has always been in short supply. Just read some of the Old Testament or ancient documents from other cultures. Human nature has never really changed. We all appreciate Stud Pack demonstrating what right looks like in the public sphere.
I think you're mixing up integrity with experience. As a general contractor, I don't primarily mud, but I taught myself a simple and effective manner to mud both corners at once. I cut sanding down to a last process (practically unecessary). Integrity has nothing to do with mudding one side or both.
I have been using chalk and food coloring in my mud for years and have always wondered why the RUclips drywallers don't do it. It makes it so much easier to see what you're doing. Most of the time they say "well, you probably can't see this on camera but this side is different than that side..." Or something like that. Kudos for doing things different and making sense.
.........one of my favorite channels. These guys are good. FWIW about mud and paint....I once drove from Montana to Chicago with a truck full of tools to remodel a daughter's new (old) condo kitchen. I had two weeks to go from bare studs (after demo) to finished Ikea cabinets. In the last two days I put three coats of mud and three coats of paint on the walls and then drove home. Those walls stayed jelly-like for half a year. But finally hardened up.
I'm a novice mudder that just started working for a company that renovates apartments and I've been doing this for three days now without any real proper instruction, these videos I've watched so far are going to make my life so much easier tomorrow. thank you so much for this. what a real pro you are. I appreciate you . I'm going to use these techniques first thing in the morning.
Love all the tips and tricks, including things I've already learned the hard way. Appreciate you guys incorporating user suggestions too - love that you guys share all your knowledge and are humble about it at the same time - great job SP!
Your butt end joint tip is how I mudded my walls and ceilings smooth with a full coat over the entire surface as if I was using plaster veneer (we dont have it here in arizona so I had to use joint compound). I also do same thing as you on the inside corners. So much better to let one side dry and then do the other side. Love this channel. I have learned a lot from you guys and ive been doing this for over 20 years.
You give me the motivation to finish the basement. All the sheet rock is done. But I’ve been scared to try the finishing (tape/bed). But the concept here was pretty easy to understand… I’ll let ya know how it turns out. Thanks guys.
Hey friend, it's your house, right? Experiment with it! If something doesn't work, rip it out and try again later. I'm the second owner of my 1950's farmhouse, and the previous owner built it - and rebuilt it - and added on... I guess he liked to tinker. Now it's my turn, and I've got a lot of things I want to try.
Lookup; the Vancouver Carpenter or Laurier Desormeaux here on youtube. You will find all the info, tips, tricks and motivation. Thats how I learned to tape and my joints are seamless, I am just not the fastest, I need more practice.
@@garyrosie9475 Definition of seamless from Merriam-Webster 1: having no seams 2a: having no awkward transitions, interruptions, or indications of disparity b: PERFECT, FLAWLESS a seamless performance Maybe its not the best word? I meant to say that you can't see the joints at all, it looks like a pro did it.
When I do my drywall work with the premade buckets I've always added a little bit of water to my pan. I found it easier to apply and feather. Another tip I have used for repair work is to use a flashlight or shop light and lay it against the wall when its dry to look for high spots or potential areas that need more mud.
Where I'm at in Hawaii I never see painters or dry wall guys using lights, it blows my mind and frustrates me. When I asked about it an older guy said the older lights would get too hot and dry out the material too fast, I was like ok but there's new technology now...
@@ziggybender9125 My father would use a two tube 48" shop light when taping. He would pull the fixture that hangs from chains off the garage ceiling and bring it inside the house. Now with plastic LED tube fixtures, my fear of breaking the glass tubes if I knock over the lamp is gone.
@@ziggybender9125 It should be a law. In fact we need a system that shines every direction up down and across the ceiling and walls. I sand with a light and the guys that don't are leaving a mess.
I've already commented once before a while back but I just want to reinforce this comment don't stop what you're doing you are doing what the reality of working on a house is and even better I love it that you're working with your son which is what I always do with my son 👊👊👊
Awesome fix gang. 👊👏 One little recommendation, on the missed screw instead of taking a hammer to the screw and banging it in try taking a Philips screw driver and putting it on screw and using the hammer to hit end of Philips to avoid pulling out the screw and leaving a possible future blister from damaged rock from hammer head. It’s faster then pulling missed screws and saves the rock from getting damaged. You guys are an awesome team.
Although a better solution, the best idea would be to actually remove the screw. Without it be secured into a substrate (wood/metal) it will eventually turn into a screw pop with movement or expansion/contraction. Easier to fix it now then do more work later 👍
From a painter's point of view, cutting into the ceiling corner with your knife while mudding, leaves a nice channel for your brush bristles to fall into while cutting in.
My Grandfather was a Master at this for over Fifty years. He had company that employees over twenty men you Guys would have made him Proud….. I wish there was a portal to send all you’re videos to Heaven for him to watch…. He’d be your biggest fan.
I've been doing this remodeling work for 25 years. I do like the 45-degree cut on the tape in the corners. As for the finishing mud for the inside corners, I love the corner knife and I can make corners look great with it. IMO, it's fast, easy and does a great job for me. I have tried your 6 inch knife method several times and I can never get a good clean corner doing that. I won't try it again. But with a corner knife, perfect every time. Some people say the tri corner ending at the ceiling is the big problem with the corner knife. Yes, it's a challenge there but you can still get it pretty good and after that, here's the trick at that tri corner. Do the best you can at the tri corner, then let it set up where it starts to get hard later that day. Then you can go back and easily shave off any high ridges with a scraper knife to make that tri corner flat. And if needed, the mud is hard enough you can add some new mud with the 6 inch knife on anything that might be low. This works for me. Pro corners every time.
I am a retired GC in residential for over 40 years, love your videos nice to see someone still have a conscience when it comes to craftsmanship. Miss my work and enjoy watching your videos, keep them coming. God bless and stay the course your quality of work is now a endangered species. KUDOS
👍🏻👍🏻 My mentor did 45° tape corners & taught them to me... but we usually used a bazooka to put the tape on, then cut our angle with a razor knife (so the edges lined up exactly). Got the bazooka cheap from a rental place that was getting new ones. I prefer using hot mud (45 min or 90 min) when I'm screeding butt joints, mudding corners, and doing end walls: mix a bucket, do 1/2 of each side of a room (or two), another bucket... more rooms, then when it's all done, start back over at the beginning and do the other sides of all the corners... one house, one day of doing mudding, & done. (Of course, I'm not messing with all the YT footage y'all do... kudos for all the awesomeness.) I've also used a 14" flat box (took off the wheels) to do stripes (similar to skreeded butt joints) across entire ceilings... to put a level five finish over raw concrete ceilings in apt bldgs & condos (after scraping off the popcorn).
OMG, as a DIY-er, when I had a whole house of re-piping and thus a 3" width strip of drywall patching the length of the entire house, all butt joints, I got my grinder out and actually sanded down the drywall more than the width of the tape. The tape was below the surface of the wall, but everything in my house got covered in gypsum dust LOL. It looked great, but it took me about a week of vacuuming to get that dust off everything. That said, at least the place was clean when I got done! 😃
When your in a rush, try using Perfect 90 tape as you can typically skip the 3rd coat, just bed with setting compound and then a quick skim with finishing compound, no reason to go all the way into the corner with compound. The tape is expensive in comparison to regular paper, but it has worked well for me in the right situation.
Thanks SP. True measure of a professional is not how they act when things go right, but how they act when things go sideways. Love the channel and tips.
I just shimmed 3-4 ceiling joists with a piece of half inch drywall to flatten a really bad ceiling. Sometimes you do what you have to to make it right. I work in mostly high end renovations and repair work so leaving a ceiling wavy is not an option. Great work guys. 👍
We called 4 different tapers and they were all too busy. Instead of letting our kitchen and bath renos stall, we are tackling the taping and mudding ourselves. While we've both done this before, it was without any instruction, and very painful. Your videos have been a HUGE help and I'm sure will go a long way to making this next step a LOT easier, and with better results. You are a great teacher, sir! Thank you!
I wouldn’t use miter cuts on the tape because inside corners tend to crack. overlapping makes it stronger. Regarding the tip on the joints, Try doing the opposite. Float the middle first, then do the 2 sides. Less guessing on how much mud to add on the 2 sides. Thanks for sharing!
@@ziggybender9125 15+ years. I learned that trick from a seasoned taper who also had success with it. Don’t knock until you try it. I’ll stick with the crisp clean corners over the old method.
@@ziggybender9125 15 yr span. If the tips of your miters touch there really is no where for it to form the crack channel because the tape(despite thinning to nothing at the point) is making it a continuous surface.
Little details like how you load the mud on the blade for pre-fill and screw dents. I have watched tons of videos and always wondered, “wtf am I doing wrong?” I didn’t taper the mud off of each side of the blade first. Thank you so much for that tip as well as all of your others!
As always you guys really do help with the process you are demonstrating and I, even a veteran contractor, can pick up on and appreciate all of the tips. One other trick... I use fast setting mud, fifteen or thirty minute set, and can get multiple coats on in a day and if the job is small can actually complete the job in well over half the time, sometimes in one day! I mix mine directly into the mud pan using a metal cake beater attached to a drill, use up the whole pan and clean in between batches to remove any debris and repeat the process. This takes a little time but by far it accelerates the overall job and leaves time to do other parts of the project.
I really enjoy your videos and tricks. I've been doing plastering for about 20ish years and I still enjoy watching your videos as if I've never done this before. Lol thank you for the tips & tricks. Peace brotha. ✌️😎
I watch because you CARE, I have picked up several tips from you, non today though . a buddy of mine showed me mitered tape several years ago and I was the same as you. Brilliant!!
10:55 😄 Man I always get a kick out of you zooming in on your pops like that. I'd give anything to have videos of me and my ol man kickin it and getting stuff done.
I do the one-corner-at-a-time method and my corners are super sharp. In a basement suite, most owners don’t care about it but if it’s for a discerning customer, I do the third method. The two inside corner method of mitre-ing the corners work out really well.
We did that mitering with tape with some wall / window overhang and it worked like a charm. Hardest part about it is remembering to bring some scissors
Mistakes aren't necessarily mistakes. They are a tool to learn how to do it better. I just don't like learning how to do it better time after time.😉. Great drywall video. I'm self taught and nice to see I'm in the ballpark. Awesome miter tip.
Thanks for another great video guys. I would like to share with you a tip that a seasoned drywall taper showed me years ago when doing the inside corners using the 2 coat method. He loaded the knife with mud heavily favouring the edge that goes into the corner. The last 1/4 or so of the knife opposite the corner had no mud. That way the mud is usually feathered out automatically on the first pass. He also used a four inch knife for less sanding.
Yup, came to say this exactly. I still use a 6". Load 2/3 and you end up with a 4-5" finished taper. Can also coat the first side while taping, saves a day drying.
I remember a project where I had to replace some drywall behind a cabinet due to H2O damage. I had to tape and mud a butt joint behind a counter top that was tightly scribed to the original wall. I did not want to lose the original fit of the counter top. My solution was to cut the drywall paper right where the tape edge would be. Then I pealed the outer layer of paper off leaving a depression for the tape to lay in. The finish coat was just barely above the surface of the wall board. It took a little time but the result was worth it.
Common practice where you cannot add thickness, if you can, always prime the bare drywall when you make the cutout. We use trimtex buttboard where we have full access… check it out sometime.
When you feather the edges, you can't truly feather unless you thin down the mud more. That butt joint tip was awesome. I might try that later if i get the chance
"Back in the day" I used an 18" concave (called "flex" today) trowel for butt joints. If I had made a clean joint all I needed was one pass to bury it. Being old school I couldn't abide using a knife except to apply the mud. To my knowledge, the longest available today are 16"? Also; the gold standard for checking a tape job is to shine a flood light nearly parallel to the work. It will surprise you, as it often did me.
Good tip I picked up from some other drywall videos on youtube is to let those ridges dry and then just scrape them off the next day. A lot easier than trying to feather that ridge
Good advice my friend. I am from Pennsylvania and for years we didn't have to have a contractor's license so I was able to learn electrical plumbing and carpentry. And I have been doing this kind of work going on 42 years. But I am kind of amazed how many people are making money off RUclips here. Which has been working out very well for those making the videos
You guy are great . You have more interest plastering then a guy in Hervey Bay Queensland that did my house that did not have experience in plastering I wish I had you guys in the bay
I use a trimtex tear-away bead for mudding up to windows where I'm doing a drywall return. Keeps the window clean of mud and finishes the transition without caulk.
I've done some of this stuff on my own and didn't know if anyone else did it, but you solidified that I'm doing what it takes. I love it. Appreciate your videos guys!!
All I can say is “Wow double rainbow all the way”. You have truly just blown my mind 🤯 I am totally using that technique. 💪💪💪 to the subscriber that suggested that technique
If you guys ever run into a situation where a customer wants a dishwasher installed where there isn’t one I would love to see you approach on modifying that space to make it happen hopefully without needing new cabinets. Love the tips and trick guys. Long time subscriber right here.
Good stuff! Instead of shears, your 6" knife is exactly that; a knife. Fold your tape, place it against a convenient place on the wall, press your 6" knife on the tape (perpendicular to the wall) and at a 45, and tear quickly. I I use my taping knife to cut all tape. Also, use food coloring (yellow is great) for offsetting tones when doing multi room repair/patches. For the corner trowel, I've never seen it used 2nd coat but often seen it used skim coat when you go by the standard coating of the two joining walls. The corner trowel just gives that inside fillet the nice radial look in the finish, assuming that over sanding doesn't happen. I stand by the single side coat method that you showed. The sharp corners makes the paint and finish carpentry look very clean.
A old boss of mine use to try to make me use the corner trial, i always hated it and would ALWAYS revert back to doing 1 side at a time. I would get creative with heaters, fans and heat guns to help with the drying time he complained about me adding to the process. Truth be told my corners took me a lot less concentration and no stress.
Just a DIYer learning to do drywall, but I've been having luck sanding down my butt joints creating my own taper with some low grit sand paper. Saves a lot of mud build up and time.
I came for the miter.. I stayed for the tearaway bead. I do some things differently as I'm rather autodidactic in most disciplines, but I enjoy and find good tips in your videos. Great work btw...
Right in time. We are new to DIY home stuffs. We are planning on upgrading our bathroom wall and this would definitely help! Thanks for sharing. Love your videos ❤️
I like this video. I have a corner trial, but I used it once and it takes to long so I do one side at a time, but the but joint trick I never thought of i really like that, I have been doing mud work all day and them but joints are a pain
You guys are so lucky in the US with modifications. We have to battle concrete and brick walls in EU/UK. Modifications are a little more complex. Keep up the great work and Greetings from The Grand Duchy of Luxembourg!
The wall I'm working now is a thin coat of crumbling plaster over cement and brick. Since I know nothing about doing plaster all I can think to do with it is roll mud and skim coat over it.
And I'm in the U.S., but this is like a 200 year old building. It has strange combinations of stone, cinder block, brick, cement, horsehair plaster, and drywall. lol
Too cold up here in Chicagoland to get started on new projects but glad I subscribed. Gonna have to reach watch some stuff in the Spring. Really digging your vids - keep em' comin'!
I've always been in the habit of putting up one drywall panel so that it abuts the opposing studs, then when the other piece goes up, the only gap is between its edge and the piece that goes all the way in, so it only needs to be taped and mudded on one side. I always cut a groove right on the corner line so that if there is any movement the crack is perfectly straight and have never noticed any conspicuous cracks in the rooms I've done that way.
You guys are awesome. No one else on RUclips is dying drywall mud to make a super informative instructional video. You guys are ELITE!
me and my dad had the idea when texturing because is sometime hard to see if you have an even spread but I'm not sure if the idea would thrive
Jeff Thorman (from Canada) colored his mud a few years back in his drywall mudding videos. I think I've seen someone else on RUclips do it as well, but they used a much lighter color. They said to stay away from black or red. Blue and beige or other light colors are fine. I do wonder if the chalk will effect the chemical reaction at all and overall stability of the mud.
That said, this is still very cool and helpful.
Mistakes and how to solve them is the best part of construction and finishing videos.
Dude is living the dream,doing man's work with your son and sharing old tricks of the trade.
Rare breed of old dog that can learn new tricks,therefore he has yet to peak.
The kid is going to be the ultimate tradesman.
Both keep making priceless memories.
Working with my son doing drywall when he was younger kept him in school, then college and now runs two charter fishing boats. He knew right away he didn't want to do drywall for a living and I don't blame him.
Glad to see someone else is mudding half a corner and letting it dry. Do it first in the morning, and usually the second side is ready in the afternoon (depending on humidity and temp). I would trust SP to do any work for me because your integrity and commitment to excellence are obvious. Thanks for doing the right thing right! It seems integrity is in short supply in our culture these days. 🙏🏻
Pro's will add 30, 60, 90 minute dry patch to the mud and do one side ,,, by the time their done with the left side where they started is set and ready to go! But remember I said PRO'S!!! They know from experience!! This guy gives very good DIY tips!! Good day!
Yeah adding 45 or 90 minute mud really speeds up your taping i usually pull one side of my tape and skim at the same time ive never had a problem as long as it's a light pull over your tape it saves alot of that damn ladder work walls to ceiling good video thanks
Integrity has always been in short supply. Just read some of the Old Testament or ancient documents from other cultures. Human nature has never really changed. We all appreciate Stud Pack demonstrating what right looks like in the public sphere.
@@stevehamman4465 im able to do all corners at the same time with normal mud
I think you're mixing up integrity with experience. As a general contractor, I don't primarily mud, but I taught myself a simple and effective manner to mud both corners at once. I cut sanding down to a last process (practically unecessary). Integrity has nothing to do with mudding one side or both.
I have been using chalk and food coloring in my mud for years and have always wondered why the RUclips drywallers don't do it. It makes it so much easier to see what you're doing. Most of the time they say "well, you probably can't see this on camera but this side is different than that side..." Or something like that. Kudos for doing things different and making sense.
.........one of my favorite channels. These guys are good.
FWIW about mud and paint....I once drove from Montana to Chicago with a truck full of tools to remodel a daughter's new (old) condo kitchen. I had two weeks to go from bare studs (after demo) to finished Ikea cabinets. In the last two days I put three coats of mud and three coats of paint on the walls and then drove home. Those walls stayed jelly-like for half a year. But finally hardened up.
A good craftsman is always learning. Like the fact you actually are not prideful and read your comments. Thumbs up 👍🏼
Great job explaining the process of coating inside corner guys!
You the real MVP
Stud Pack; the only channel I can hit the like button before even watching the video. So consistently good, informational, and entertaining.
I'm a novice mudder that just started working for a company that renovates apartments and I've been doing this for three days now without any real proper instruction, these videos I've watched so far are going to make my life so much easier tomorrow. thank you so much for this. what a real pro you are. I appreciate you . I'm going to use these techniques first thing in the morning.
Love all the tips and tricks, including things I've already learned the hard way. Appreciate you guys incorporating user suggestions too - love that you guys share all your knowledge and are humble about it at the same time - great job SP!
Your butt end joint tip is how I mudded my walls and ceilings smooth with a full coat over the entire surface as if I was using plaster veneer (we dont have it here in arizona so I had to use joint compound).
I also do same thing as you on the inside corners. So much better to let one side dry and then do the other side.
Love this channel. I have learned a lot from you guys and ive been doing this for over 20 years.
I thoroughly enjoy Stud Pack’s videos because you guys are show how to do it right, but with a bit of humor.
Keep up the great work.
Thx 👊👍
You give me the motivation to finish the basement. All the sheet rock is done. But I’ve been scared to try the finishing (tape/bed). But the concept here was pretty easy to understand… I’ll let ya know how it turns out. Thanks guys.
Hey friend, it's your house, right? Experiment with it! If something doesn't work, rip it out and try again later. I'm the second owner of my 1950's farmhouse, and the previous owner built it - and rebuilt it - and added on... I guess he liked to tinker. Now it's my turn, and I've got a lot of things I want to try.
Lookup; the Vancouver Carpenter or Laurier Desormeaux here on youtube. You will find all the info, tips, tricks and motivation.
Thats how I learned to tape and my joints are seamless, I am just not the fastest, I need more practice.
Also Russ Olinatz painting has great tutorials.
@@okkrom Seamless? What does that even mean?
@@garyrosie9475
Definition of seamless from Merriam-Webster
1: having no seams
2a: having no awkward transitions, interruptions, or indications of disparity
b: PERFECT, FLAWLESS
a seamless performance
Maybe its not the best word? I meant to say that you can't see the joints at all, it looks like a pro did it.
When I do my drywall work with the premade buckets I've always added a little bit of water to my pan. I found it easier to apply and feather. Another tip I have used for repair work is to use a flashlight or shop light and lay it against the wall when its dry to look for high spots or potential areas that need more mud.
Where I'm at in Hawaii I never see painters or dry wall guys using lights, it blows my mind and frustrates me. When I asked about it an older guy said the older lights would get too hot and dry out the material too fast, I was like ok but there's new technology now...
@@ziggybender9125 My father would use a two tube 48" shop light when taping. He would pull the fixture that hangs from chains off the garage ceiling and bring it inside the house. Now with plastic LED tube fixtures, my fear of breaking the glass tubes if I knock over the lamp is gone.
@@ziggybender9125 It should be a law. In fact we need a system that shines every direction up down and across the ceiling and walls. I sand with a light and the guys that don't are leaving a mess.
I've already commented once before a while back but I just want to reinforce this comment don't stop what you're doing you are doing what the reality of working on a house is and even better I love it that you're working with your son which is what I always do with my son 👊👊👊
Awesome fix gang. 👊👏
One little recommendation, on the missed screw instead of taking a hammer to the screw and banging it in try taking a Philips screw driver and putting it on screw and using the hammer to hit end of Philips to avoid pulling out the screw and leaving a possible future blister from damaged rock from hammer head. It’s faster then pulling missed screws and saves the rock from getting damaged. You guys are an awesome team.
Although a better solution, the best idea would be to actually remove the screw. Without it be secured into a substrate (wood/metal) it will eventually turn into a screw pop with movement or expansion/contraction. Easier to fix it now then do more work later 👍
From a painter's point of view, cutting into the ceiling corner with your knife while mudding, leaves a nice channel for your brush bristles to fall into while cutting in.
My Grandfather was a Master at this for over Fifty years. He had company that employees over twenty men you Guys would have made him Proud….. I wish there was a portal to send all you’re videos to Heaven for him to watch…. He’d be your biggest fan.
I've been doing this remodeling work for 25 years. I do like the 45-degree cut on the tape in the corners. As for the finishing mud for the inside corners, I love the corner knife and I can make corners look great with it. IMO, it's fast, easy and does a great job for me. I have tried your 6 inch knife method several times and I can never get a good clean corner doing that. I won't try it again. But with a corner knife, perfect every time. Some people say the tri corner ending at the ceiling is the big problem with the corner knife. Yes, it's a challenge there but you can still get it pretty good and after that, here's the trick at that tri corner. Do the best you can at the tri corner, then let it set up where it starts to get hard later that day. Then you can go back and easily shave off any high ridges with a scraper knife to make that tri corner flat. And if needed, the mud is hard enough you can add some new mud with the 6 inch knife on anything that might be low. This works for me. Pro corners every time.
Thanks for confirming my but joint method. I figured that out after getting tired of seeing humps in harsh light. You guys do awesome work. Good job
I am a retired GC in residential for over 40 years, love your videos nice to see someone still have a conscience when it comes to craftsmanship. Miss my work and enjoy watching your videos, keep them coming. God bless and stay the course your quality of work is now a endangered species. KUDOS
👍🏻👍🏻 My mentor did 45° tape corners & taught them to me... but we usually used a bazooka to put the tape on, then cut our angle with a razor knife (so the edges lined up exactly). Got the bazooka cheap from a rental place that was getting new ones.
I prefer using hot mud (45 min or 90 min) when I'm screeding butt joints, mudding corners, and doing end walls: mix a bucket, do 1/2 of each side of a room (or two), another bucket... more rooms, then when it's all done, start back over at the beginning and do the other sides of all the corners... one house, one day of doing mudding, & done. (Of course, I'm not messing with all the YT footage y'all do... kudos for all the awesomeness.)
I've also used a 14" flat box (took off the wheels) to do stripes (similar to skreeded butt joints) across entire ceilings... to put a level five finish over raw concrete ceilings in apt bldgs & condos (after scraping off the popcorn).
OMG, as a DIY-er, when I had a whole house of re-piping and thus a 3" width strip of drywall patching the length of the entire house, all butt joints, I got my grinder out and actually sanded down the drywall more than the width of the tape. The tape was below the surface of the wall, but everything in my house got covered in gypsum dust LOL. It looked great, but it took me about a week of vacuuming to get that dust off everything. That said, at least the place was clean when I got done! 😃
When your in a rush, try using Perfect 90 tape as you can typically skip the 3rd coat, just bed with setting compound and then a quick skim with finishing compound, no reason to go all the way into the corner with compound. The tape is expensive in comparison to regular paper, but it has worked well for me in the right situation.
Thanks SP. True measure of a professional is not how they act when things go right, but how they act when things go sideways. Love the channel and tips.
I just shimmed 3-4 ceiling joists with a piece of half inch drywall to flatten a really bad ceiling. Sometimes you do what you have to to make it right.
I work in mostly high end renovations and repair work so leaving a ceiling wavy is not an option.
Great work guys. 👍
You are saving so much time and frustration. Thank you for the tips.
We called 4 different tapers and they were all too busy. Instead of letting our kitchen and bath renos stall, we are tackling the taping and mudding ourselves. While we've both done this before, it was without any instruction, and very painful. Your videos have been a HUGE help and I'm sure will go a long way to making this next step a LOT easier, and with better results. You are a great teacher, sir! Thank you!
Thanks SP for great drywall mud tips and tricks!
Hey guys, I've been a renovator for 25 years but I still learn alot from your videos. Great work!
You answered all of the questions I had in mind, plus several I wasn't even aware of! Great stuff.
I wouldn’t use miter cuts on the tape because inside corners tend to crack. overlapping makes it stronger. Regarding the tip on the joints, Try doing the opposite. Float the middle first, then do the 2 sides. Less guessing on how much mud to add on the 2 sides. Thanks for sharing!
I agree! I don't cut 45 on tape either. I overlap them
I’ve never had a corner crack with mitered tape joints; they meet at the very tip. Outside corner joints are also mitered; they don’t crack.
@@straight_to_finish What time line are you referencing when you say you've never had a corner crack, 5 year span? 10 year span?
@@ziggybender9125 15+ years. I learned that trick from a seasoned taper who also had success with it. Don’t knock until you try it. I’ll stick with the crisp clean corners over the old method.
@@ziggybender9125 15 yr span. If the tips of your miters touch there really is no where for it to form the crack channel because the tape(despite thinning to nothing at the point) is making it a continuous surface.
A true skilled craftsman not only does the big things right, they are just as skilled at the little details too.
No shit?
Little details like how you load the mud on the blade for pre-fill and screw dents. I have watched tons of videos and always wondered, “wtf am I doing wrong?” I didn’t taper the mud off of each side of the blade first. Thank you so much for that tip as well as all of your others!
As always you guys really do help with the process you are demonstrating and I, even a veteran contractor, can pick up on and appreciate all of the tips. One other trick... I use fast setting mud, fifteen or thirty minute set, and can get multiple coats on in a day and if the job is small can actually complete the job in well over half the time, sometimes in one day!
I mix mine directly into the mud pan using a metal cake beater attached to a drill, use up the whole pan and clean in between batches to remove any debris and repeat the process. This takes a little time but by far it accelerates the overall job and leaves time to do other parts of the project.
Do you use the setting mud for all the coats? I've heard it's very difficult to sand.
You guys rock. Love how you credit viewers. Always open to ideas. Wish you were up north, like near Lake Ontario🥶🥶💕💕
I really enjoy your videos and tricks. I've been doing plastering for about 20ish years and I still enjoy watching your videos as if I've never done this before. Lol thank you for the tips & tricks. Peace brotha. ✌️😎
Fix the cause not the symptom! Thats why I love your channel! Love corner trowels! use it all the time, a huge timesaver!
Love the tips and tricks. When I tape my corners I also go ahead and pull one side. It works great and speeds up the process.
I watch because you CARE, I have picked up several tips from you, non today though . a buddy of mine showed me mitered tape several years ago and I was the same as you. Brilliant!!
10:55
😄 Man I always get a kick out of you zooming in on your pops like that. I'd give anything to have videos of me and my ol man kickin it and getting stuff done.
I just bought a house and I keep coming to your channel! Thanks for the tips!
I do the one-corner-at-a-time method and my corners are super sharp. In a basement suite, most owners don’t care about it but if it’s for a discerning customer, I do the third method. The two inside corner method of mitre-ing the corners work out really well.
Studpack Thursday!! Thank You..Keep up the good work!!
We did that mitering with tape with some wall / window overhang and it worked like a charm. Hardest part about it is remembering to bring some scissors
Mistakes aren't necessarily mistakes. They are a tool to learn how to do it better. I just don't like learning how to do it better time after time.😉.
Great drywall video. I'm self taught and nice to see I'm in the ballpark. Awesome miter tip.
Thank you very much for your clear and simple teaching, and for all your tips, I am learning a lot from you.
Straight to finish awesome tip!
That inside miter is 100% gold.
Mitered tape tip was genius!!
Thanks for another great video guys. I would like to share with you a tip that a seasoned drywall taper showed me years ago when doing the inside corners using the 2 coat method. He loaded the knife with mud heavily favouring the edge that goes into the corner. The last 1/4 or so of the knife opposite the corner had no mud. That way the mud is usually feathered out automatically on the first pass. He also used a four inch knife for less sanding.
Yup, came to say this exactly. I still use a 6". Load 2/3 and you end up with a 4-5" finished taper.
Can also coat the first side while taping, saves a day drying.
Wow tinting the mud is a fantastic idea.Great video God bless you
Making masters of the masses. Handing out great tips here, and not too proud to relay a tip and give the credit
I remember a project where I had to replace some drywall behind a cabinet due to H2O damage. I had to tape and mud a butt joint behind a counter top that was tightly scribed to the original wall. I did not want to lose the original fit of the counter top. My solution was to cut the drywall paper right where the tape edge would be. Then I pealed the outer layer of paper off leaving a depression for the tape to lay in. The finish coat was just barely above the surface of the wall board. It took a little time but the result was worth it.
Common practice where you cannot add thickness, if you can, always prime the bare drywall when you make the cutout. We use trimtex buttboard where we have full access… check it out sometime.
Stud Pack is Awsome!!! Thanks for doing what you do!!! I love all of your tips and I am learning so much from you!!!
Wow you love what you do!!! Thanks for sharing it !!!!
I used Perfect 90 for all inside corners. It works great. Easy to apply and fast to finish.
The ceiling solution was inspired. Love it. Thank you.
Another video loaded with great tips. Thanks
Great tips guys... After watching your videos I'm no longer apprehensive about trying jobs I'd never think of tackling.
You are a cool and humble guy. Keep it up. Fellow contractor.
Thx Thomas 👊👍
That is brilliant, thanks for the great video!
When you feather the edges, you can't truly feather unless you thin down the mud more. That butt joint tip was awesome. I might try that later if i get the chance
"Back in the day" I used an 18" concave (called "flex" today) trowel for butt joints. If I had made a clean joint all I needed was one pass to bury it. Being old school I couldn't abide using a knife except to apply the mud. To my knowledge, the longest available today are 16"? Also; the gold standard for checking a tape job is to shine a flood light nearly parallel to the work. It will surprise you, as it often did me.
Good tip I picked up from some other drywall videos on youtube is to let those ridges dry and then just scrape them off the next day. A lot easier than trying to feather that ridge
Wrong.
I like how you explain the way you apply pressure. For someone who doesn’t know there is a lot more than dragging a knife on the wall to know
Very cool how you take information you find so positively. That can't be faked. I enjoy the lessons and the attitude.
I always did the 2 day method. It actually saves you time and it comes out great.
These videos are telling me I need to make some videos. 43 years experience should make it easy.
Good advice my friend.
I am from Pennsylvania and for years we didn't have to have a contractor's license so I was able to learn electrical plumbing and carpentry.
And I have been doing this kind of work going on 42 years.
But I am kind of amazed how many people are making money off RUclips here. Which has been working out very well for those making the videos
No way. Never thought about chalk line power. Great idea.
You guy are great . You have more interest plastering then a guy in Hervey Bay Queensland that did my house that did not have experience in plastering I wish I had you guys in the bay
I use a trimtex tear-away bead for mudding up to windows where I'm doing a drywall return. Keeps the window clean of mud and finishes the transition without caulk.
Great idea thx Evan 👊👍
I've done some of this stuff on my own and didn't know if anyone else did it, but you solidified that I'm doing what it takes. I love it. Appreciate your videos guys!!
Great video! Small tip; mix the chalk with a bit of water before adding to the mud. Makes it much easier to blend together.
All I can say is “Wow double rainbow all the way”. You have truly just blown my mind 🤯 I am totally using that technique. 💪💪💪 to the subscriber that suggested that technique
If you guys ever run into a situation where a customer wants a dishwasher installed where there isn’t one I would love to see you approach on modifying that space to make it happen hopefully without needing new cabinets. Love the tips and trick guys. Long time subscriber right here.
Good stuff! Instead of shears, your 6" knife is exactly that; a knife. Fold your tape, place it against a convenient place on the wall, press your 6" knife on the tape (perpendicular to the wall) and at a 45, and tear quickly. I I use my taping knife to cut all tape. Also, use food coloring (yellow is great) for offsetting tones when doing multi room repair/patches. For the corner trowel, I've never seen it used 2nd coat but often seen it used skim coat when you go by the standard coating of the two joining walls. The corner trowel just gives that inside fillet the nice radial look in the finish, assuming that over sanding doesn't happen. I stand by the single side coat method that you showed. The sharp corners makes the paint and finish carpentry look very clean.
Wow... So many amazing tips. Thank you
Bless the process. Thank you for skill trade sharing. 🏆🤝
I’m diy’er. I caulked my inside corners with a premium paintable caulk. It was very quick and has held up the past 6 years can’t tell
A old boss of mine use to try to make me use the corner trial, i always hated it and would ALWAYS revert back to doing 1 side at a time. I would get creative with heaters, fans and heat guns to help with the drying time he complained about me adding to the process. Truth be told my corners took me a lot less concentration and no stress.
GREAT! video. Really appreciate Jordan. It's like I'm in the room. I wish you both much success.
Just a DIYer learning to do drywall, but I've been having luck sanding down my butt joints creating my own taper with some low grit sand paper. Saves a lot of mud build up and time.
I came for the miter.. I stayed for the tearaway bead.
I do some things differently as I'm rather autodidactic in most disciplines, but I enjoy and find good tips in your videos. Great work btw...
Thanks for sharing the tips that you have learn. Respect an from jamaica
Loved that fix for the crowned joist. I'll have to remember that one.
I thought you saw caraway bead at first. Good tips, thanks.
Love all the tips brother as a GC my self you can’t never stop learning new things. Keep the videos coming our way.
Learned some new tricks, well worth a subscription 👍🏻
Butt joints - I was taught to shim the studs on each side of the butt joint when hanging the drywall to create the divot at the seam.
[Québec, Canada ]
Mans best friend...duck tape. no need for drywall tape, mud or even gyprock sheets for that matter ;P
Love your video.
Right in time. We are new to DIY home stuffs. We are planning on upgrading our bathroom wall and this would definitely help! Thanks for sharing. Love your videos ❤️
I like this video. I have a corner trial, but I used it once and it takes to long so I do one side at a time, but the but joint trick I never thought of i really like that, I have been doing mud work all day and them but joints are a pain
I learned this trick several months back for drywall, Call Stud Pack.
I learn so much from your videos. Thank you Paul and Jordan.
You guys are so lucky in the US with modifications. We have to battle concrete and brick walls in EU/UK. Modifications are a little more complex. Keep up the great work and Greetings from The Grand Duchy of Luxembourg!
The wall I'm working now is a thin coat of crumbling plaster over cement and brick. Since I know nothing about doing plaster all I can think to do with it is roll mud and skim coat over it.
And I'm in the U.S., but this is like a 200 year old building. It has strange combinations of stone, cinder block, brick, cement, horsehair plaster, and drywall. lol
Too cold up here in Chicagoland to get started on new projects but glad I subscribed. Gonna have to reach watch some stuff in the Spring. Really digging your vids - keep em' comin'!
I've always been in the habit of putting up one drywall panel so that it abuts the opposing studs, then when the other piece goes up, the only gap is between its edge and the piece that goes all the way in, so it only needs to be taped and mudded on one side. I always cut a groove right on the corner line so that if there is any movement the crack is perfectly straight and have never noticed any conspicuous cracks in the rooms I've done that way.
you are amazing, an encyclopedia thankfully sir.