The flashing is facing the wrong side of the slope. That's why you ended up with a big gap under the storm collar, and ended up with not enough pipe clearance on the lower side of the roof. Also, you forgot to seal your nails and the bracing you installed only supports the pipe in one direction. To all those watching this video: this is not a professional installation.
@@pierreverdoni The softer slope would make the water flow nicely indeed, but that softer slope also puts the collar closer to the roof, which will allow for some water (or snow melt) to flow unto the collar, thus increasing chances for leaks. If the higher side with a near 90 degree angle, as you pointed out, is on the top side of the slope, this puts the collar further away from the roof, and because the flashing is a single piece of welded metal it wont leak at the 90 degree angle. Water will just go around it. Look at large bridges and how they build the bases with sharp concrete blades that break up the flow of the water. You don't want an easy slope for the water to run through. You want a sharp yet waterproof angle to make your water go around your flashing and away from any joints that may be more susceptible to leaks.
Could someone please explain what several commenters have stated regarding the placement of the roof flashing? "The flashing is facing the wrong side of the slope" and "omg....upside down?" Are they seeing something I'm not? His installation isn't "upside down." What am I missing here?
I think the "'up-side' down" comment(s) is referencing that the flashing's seam is facing downhill vs facing upward. This particular chimney pipe flashing's seam, seems to have been manufactured to face uphill(?).
Nice job. You made it look so easy. Did you renail those shingles that you took out on the upper side of flashing, or did you just caulk the shingles back down. How many nails are you putting in flashing. And are they 1" roofing nails. I never did this type of job, but i know i can do it. I been looking at different videos. Some guys i seen dont put a beed of caulk on the bottom of the flashing. Im just not sure about that also. Im in a high wind, and i do get heavy rain from time to time. What type of caulking are you using, I installed a furnace in my garage, and this is the last thing i have to do. My stove pipe parts are coming this week. Do you have any other video of you doing more of these. Thank you. If you could just answer a few of my questions, i would appreciate it.
I live in CT when I put a pellet stove in my garage/workshop the code here was that the bottom of the firebox had to be a minimum of 18" off the floor in case of fumes. that was with the "exhaust pipe" through the side wall. Pellets were way to expensive, so now putting a wood stove in and just to make sure I will build it up on cinder blocks,, oh and my floor is concrete and that's what the building inspector told me to do to pass code
Yes I do! Nail or screw down both sides and the bottom. Don't nail the top of the flashing, and you can't use to much roof tar! Rember to use High Temp silicone for the pipe collar. Thanks for your comment!
Thick roof cement will dry up and crack like a mud flat. Seen many cases of a cracked thick cove of tar burying the siding/step flashing interface. It has to be removed to roof over. We used to joke that you should need a license to apply roof cement.
Oh BTW that is a really great video,, thank you so much, I've got all the pipes and fittings ready,,My concern was cutting the hole in the roof and you are a GREAT help , thanks again for taking the time to make the video
Thanks mrEnergy for putting up your vids. I installed the ceiling support box, now I need to go up in the attic and plumb bob for the center where I will put the screw through and out the roof. I made a cardboard template for the hole in the roof to trace out. My roof is pretty steep so I made it elliptical so the clearances will be right on top and bottom.*One thing though is that the strapping you did won't work because the wind will still blow it down. I'm gonna use a metal strap and rods all bolted everywhere so it won't ever go anywhere.
Super helpful. Getting ready to install a wood stove and chimney. Two questions: 1) think I can use a chainsaw instead of a reticulating saw to cut my roof hole? 2) how do you line up your roof hole to the stove pipe coming up to the chimney?
I need to make sure that I do this right. I can't pay anyone to do it. So I'm just gonna watch more viedos . For a little shop shed/tiny house wouldn't mind having it a little off if I did but I still aim for perfection. Just gonna keep watching vids. Some of the commenters who say they can do it better should post some vids
Thank you! Thats how you do it with class 'A' chimney pipe, run it straight through your roof and flashing, seal it up and put a chimney cap on it. You will be ready to go! On your single wall black stove pipe there are connector parts that are crimped on both ends. Use one of these and push it into the Chimney pipe.
What happened @7:07 like how do you get the pipe in there? Can you do it from the top of the roof or does it require going into the attic "cringe". I'm a woman and the inspector told me my furnace termination is wrong and it needs to be 12" it's currently 6 inches. I need to find a way to make this longer without having to go into the attic.
My question is, did installing the chimney pipe in front of your cable, Dish Network, sat dish interfere with your TV reception? I want to install one on my roof as well and I wanted to know if it'll cause problems with my sat dish.
"very well done when you added the extension flue pipe to the existing flue pipe -did you just slip the extension over the existing flue pipe =just a slip on and push down: thanks PJP
What is your plan with the blown insulation you left with no insulation shield? Insulation also carries a 2 inch clearance and loose blown in tends to not stay put
Lol, thnx dude. I did ALOT of measuring last night. Do you know what code is for how far the firebox must be from the ground in a detached garage and for just a workshop? Im concerned now due to my low ceiling and stove stating 55" clearance. ....ugh, lol. Thank you Mr. E!
hey, i have a question. my roof is made only with a panel of two aluminum boards and polyoritan beween them, without shingles. im planning on installing my chimnney ,if i'll use the roof flashing can i glue it stright to the aluminum ? i figured it has to be strong but screwing it will create a possible leak problem... my apologies for any spelling mistakes, english is a second language to me
I love hearing the kids terrorizing the neighborhood in the background. LOL I am going to do this soon. I have watched this vid like 10x. I should be able to do it thanks to you.
I always use a support box when installing chimney pipe for a wood stove! This install is actualy a built in pre-fab fireplace. The Chimney pipe connected directly to the Fireplace and went up from there. The Fireplace supported the Chimney pipe. Thanks for your kind words.
DUDE! When you slide the flashing under the shingles lar the hell out of it and put extea roof tar under the shingles you pulled up. If you really want to nail the top lift the top layer of shingles and just go up under the shingle a 1/2 inch so when it lays down the nail will be covered by the top shingle then pot some tar under that and press it down. Hope that helps your balls drop! LOL
I am doing this up on a cabin that doesn't have an attic space. What can I use on the inside to stabilize it? I'm thinking something to attach to the 2 x 4's. Thanks
I am a professional fireplace installer and you could of put the roof flashing under 2 more rows of shingles. The strapping will not hold under high winds, use ridged pipe supports. You don't need the red RTV any 100% silicone will work. The hearth pad you built will crack as the base is on top of carpeting. Remove the carpeting lay cement board down then go ahead with the hearthstones. Make sure you have enough front protection, usually 16"-18".
How much would you typically charge for a job like this and what part of the country are you in? Also I see some people continue the shingles all the way down to the bottom so only the bottom middle is exposed it seems like that would work too.
@@mrEnergy511 I’m in Ky (2021 dec) was quoted 2500.00 for 1/2 stove pipe and half class A dbl, plus 1500.00 labor, straight up from stove, total ten feet, ceiling, attic, roof, so here I am diy, thanks for the great info 👍
How come the top flashing doesnt get nailed down by through the shingles and then through the flashing? Do you ever put an extra layer of flashing down like the flashing sheet for your "though the wall" support box install video? Sorry for all the questions posted here, i may just hafta send you a donation if I do this myself, lol. Thx
I have a similar installation to do next weekend. My problem is I am going through my eave and it is shallower than yours and I want to include some sort of flashing. Typical flashing would hang over the side. The other part of this that may create an issue is that it is a steel roof. Any suggestions would be great.
I have a question for you....Did you use a ceiling support box or did you just go right through the sheet rock in the ceiling and use a strap attached to the rafters? If you just went through the ceiling did you use some sort of "beauty ring" on the ceiling around the pipe? Good helpful video! Thanks!
All these flashing videos I have watched show just silicon caulking the storm collar. Although you should caulk it as a backup, that is not the recommended way to do that. There should be a larger diameter pipe that slips over that chimney and rests on the storm collar. This way NO water ever comes in contact with the seam between the storm collar and the chimney.
Chris Layton .... yes..... but I noticed he didn't use nails with a washer to prevent leaks and he didn't seal the nails used with the roofing tar.... Better off using roofing screws.... more secure and they come with rubber washers attached to metal washers....
You should of put the roof flashing under 2 more rows of shingles so you don't see the flashing so much. Throwing nails in the attic is sloppy. You need solid chimney support rods not plumbers straping. Who trained you? This is my field of expertise.
tonymarony1 it bothered me that the pipe wasn't centered in the flashing.. I've been watching these vids for a few weeks planning my personal installation...seems like less risk of leaking from the storm collar if it was all centered up evem..is that wrong ?
May I ask a question tonymarony1.. Is having a Chimney :Stucco & frame covered 3 wall pipe good material. I'm in process of purchasing a home. This came on report and Inspector says it was a good thing..?
This guy still knows everything about everything yet doesn't put his own video out, but comes home from installing stove pipes all day and then sits in front of the computer to analyze everyone else. Look all I'm saying is, if your so much better then shut up and show us. Trust me I want the best video but not a know it all who is too scared to make a great video for us like he claims he's the best pipe installer in the states
Let me explain from another angle. I know that I'm great at my profession so there's no need for me to watch people trying to do my job better. I don't need to that reassurance because I just know. So Why are you? maybe you're not as confident as you want people to believe. Maybe your secretively lacking on your side and want to be Mr. Know it all on the computer on your wife's couch
Go under two more rows...all that water coming down the valley...gutter that close to the bottom of the flange. Hole might have been a bit big. Reason I say that is because your so close to the gutter. Heavy rain with back up in that gutter plus a ton of water coming down the valley and no-where to go. Could back up the roof from the gutter and get in under the bottom of that flange.
***** Your're confused. I'm not talking about the shingles going two more rows under the flange. I'm talking about the flange going two more rows under the shingles. In other words he has to many rows going under the flange and not enough rows going over top of the flange. In this case it's really important because the flange/pipe is real close to the gutter and the valley. Water can back up quickly in a non-functional gutter, non-functional gutter could be as simple as a leaf clogged gutter, therefor the water backing up the valley just enough for water coming down the valley hitting the pond/backed-up water then running around the pond water and in under the flange. Seriously though if you don't understand this your're not really shingle/roofer. If you are a roofer I bet you would be surprised how many leaks you have behind you.
we get a itty bitty drip coming down our stove pipe (in our living room)....and its random, sometimes nothing when its really raining...sometimes we get the drip on very little rain...it drips onto the base of the double wall stove pipe on top of the woodstove. The flashing looks correct (looking from the ground)...can we try the roof tar, first before swapping out shingles or flashing? The house (and roof and woodstove) is 8 years old. Thanks!
I know what you mean! It's a hard thing to cut a large hole in your roof not knowing if it will leak or be damaged! Just keep in mind you can allways hire a guy if you mess it up too bad!!!
Where do I purchase the Chimney Pipe? There are several wholesale Chimney suppliers out there. However you do need to be a licensed contractor to purchase from those places. The big box stores will have Chimney Pipe available online or special order desk... They DON'T KNOW HOW IT GOES TOGETHER so they won’t be able to tell you what you need to purchase. Find an Installation manual and study it so you are clear on ALL parts needed for a safe Installation. Thanks for the comment
If your Wood Stove is set on concrete ZERO clearance! You will need to be 24" off the back to a combustable wall... Also you may want to build a heat sheild wall... Good luck!!!
Thank you for your video? i am looking for someone install chimney pipe to replace my old chimney, i do not know if is possible .I am living in lowell MA.If anyone knows someone can do it and of course have license will be better.By the way my house is two family units.I have 2 steam boiler and 2 water heaters,thanks
NO, Your wrong. 30+ years its right! the flashing is large and has an odd shape cone to allow for air flow at the top. This flashing is also made to adjust to various roof pitches... Not your standard roof flashing, it looks different.
Hope you have millions in general liability insurance. Capped ,strapped and ready to burn the house down. You get paid to do this? Wow! In a word (Unbelievable) in two words (Court Room!)
I agree the roof flashing looks like it is backwards in the video. If you go to the end of the stove install video you will see that the pipe is level. If the flashing was backwards than the stove pipe would not be level.
My dad told me to not put the roof caulk underneath of the flashing towards the bottom end so if any water does get in it could drain out.
Always honor your father and mother but the hope is to not get any water in at all.
The flashing is facing the wrong side of the slope. That's why you ended up with a big gap under the storm collar, and ended up with not enough pipe clearance on the lower side of the roof. Also, you forgot to seal your nails and the bracing you installed only supports the pipe in one direction. To all those watching this video: this is not a professional installation.
Cesar Cervantes why don't you make a video. This wont leak
LOOK at the videotop slope is soft lower slope has a 90% angle ....water will not flow nicely with the bottom side on top!! ...get it NOW??
@@pierreverdoni The softer slope would make the water flow nicely indeed, but that softer slope also puts the collar closer to the roof, which will allow for some water (or snow melt) to flow unto the collar, thus increasing chances for leaks. If the higher side with a near 90 degree angle, as you pointed out, is on the top side of the slope, this puts the collar further away from the roof, and because the flashing is a single piece of welded metal it wont leak at the 90 degree angle. Water will just go around it. Look at large bridges and how they build the bases with sharp concrete blades that break up the flow of the water. You don't want an easy slope for the water to run through. You want a sharp yet waterproof angle to make your water go around your flashing and away from any joints that may be more susceptible to leaks.
Could someone please explain what several commenters have stated regarding the placement of the roof flashing? "The flashing is facing the wrong side of the slope" and "omg....upside down?" Are they seeing something I'm not? His installation isn't "upside down." What am I missing here?
looks installed correctly to me.
I think the "'up-side' down" comment(s) is referencing that the flashing's seam is facing downhill vs facing upward. This particular chimney pipe flashing's seam, seems to have been manufactured to face uphill(?).
The flashing is installed backwards. Seriously
Nice job. You made it look so easy. Did you renail those shingles that you took out on the upper side of flashing, or did you just caulk the shingles back down. How many nails are you putting in flashing. And are they 1" roofing nails. I never did this type of job, but i know i can do it. I been looking at different videos. Some guys i seen dont put a beed of caulk on the bottom of the flashing. Im just not sure about that also. Im in a high wind, and i do get heavy rain from time to time. What type of caulking are you using, I installed a furnace in my garage, and this is the last thing i have to do. My stove pipe parts are coming this week. Do you have any other video of you doing more of these. Thank you. If you could just answer a few of my questions, i would appreciate it.
This is an example of what not to do.
I live in CT when I put a pellet stove in my garage/workshop the code here was that the bottom of the firebox had to be a minimum of 18" off the floor in case of fumes. that was with the "exhaust pipe" through the side wall. Pellets were way to expensive, so now putting a wood stove in and just to make sure I will build it up on cinder blocks,, oh and my floor is concrete and that's what the building inspector told me to do to pass code
Yes I do! Nail or screw down both sides and the bottom. Don't nail the top of the flashing, and you can't use to much roof tar! Rember to use High Temp silicone for the pipe collar. Thanks for your comment!
Thick roof cement will dry up and crack like a mud flat. Seen many cases of a cracked thick cove of tar burying the siding/step flashing interface. It has to be removed to roof over. We used to joke that you should need a license to apply roof cement.
Hey no problem! I love installing Fireplaces and wood stoves! I'm glad I can help people save money by DIY.
Oh BTW that is a really great video,, thank you so much, I've got all the pipes and fittings ready,,My concern was cutting the hole in the roof and you are a GREAT help , thanks again for taking the time to make the video
Thanks mrEnergy for putting up your vids. I installed the ceiling support box, now I need to go up in the attic and plumb bob for the center where I will put the screw through and out the roof. I made a cardboard template for the hole in the roof to trace out. My roof is pretty steep so I made it elliptical so the clearances will be right on top and bottom.*One thing though is that the strapping you did won't work because the wind will still blow it down. I'm gonna use a metal strap and rods all bolted everywhere so it won't ever go anywhere.
Super helpful. Getting ready to install a wood stove and chimney. Two questions: 1) think I can use a chainsaw instead of a reticulating saw to cut my roof hole? 2) how do you line up your roof hole to the stove pipe coming up to the chimney?
he used a screw threw the inside of the roof as his center
Howd that chainsaw work? 😉
@@koolbeans8292 awesome actually. LOL. For real. Just had to air out the house real well! Been burning this stove hot for 5 years now!
What a perfect how to video. Thank you for posting this.
Glad it was helpful!
I need to make sure that I do this right. I can't pay anyone to do it. So I'm just gonna watch more viedos . For a little shop shed/tiny house wouldn't mind having it a little off if I did but I still aim for perfection. Just gonna keep watching vids. Some of the commenters who say they can do it better should post some vids
Thank you! Thats how you do it with class 'A' chimney pipe, run it straight through your roof and flashing, seal it up and put a chimney cap on it. You will be ready to go! On your single wall black stove pipe there are connector parts that are crimped on both ends. Use one of these and push it into the Chimney pipe.
What happened @7:07 like how do you get the pipe in there? Can you do it from the top of the roof or does it require going into the attic "cringe". I'm a woman and the inspector told me my furnace termination is wrong and it needs to be 12" it's currently 6 inches. I need to find a way to make this longer without having to go into the attic.
Thank you for the very informative video.I have a roof window 2 feet at 2 o’clock direction from my stack. How high does the stack need to be?
Sorry for the late reply...playing catch up! The rule is 2' above anything 10' away.
Do you cover nails with tar/sealant?
Great vid...,, looks identical to my situation on garage roof so very helpful.., thank you for taking time.
I like how your being careful with the roofing. Excellent video
My question is, did installing the chimney pipe in front of your cable, Dish Network, sat dish interfere with your TV reception? I want to install one on my roof as well and I wanted to know if it'll cause problems with my sat dish.
So there is no need to screw the flash onto the shingles?
"very well done when you added the extension flue pipe to the existing flue pipe -did you just slip the extension over the existing flue pipe =just a slip on and push down: thanks PJP
Not sure exactly what you asking. Each brand of pipe has a distinct connection.
When you nail the flashing down, do you nail the exposed bottom half and do you need to put roof tar over the nails? Thanks for the great vid!!!
Flashing tape is recommended for the top. A little added security to keep the rain out. Caulk the exposed nail heads too.
Also a good way to make the roof flashing water proof.
What is your plan with the blown insulation you left with no insulation shield? Insulation also carries a 2 inch clearance and loose blown in tends to not stay put
Ryan Fifield a
Finished product ?
Lol, thnx dude. I did ALOT of measuring last night. Do you know what code is for how far the firebox must be from the ground in a detached garage and for just a workshop? Im concerned now due to my low ceiling and stove stating 55" clearance. ....ugh, lol. Thank you Mr. E!
How long would it take a beginner to do this ???
hey, i have a question. my roof is made only with a panel of two aluminum boards and polyoritan beween them, without shingles. im planning on installing my chimnney ,if i'll use the roof flashing can i glue it stright to the aluminum ? i figured it has to be strong but screwing it will create a possible leak problem... my apologies for any spelling mistakes, english is a second language to me
Should we re-nail the shingles at all?
How did you seal the roof straps? Also how did you seal the nails on the flashing? thanks
Do you put the flashing underneath the underlayment aswell? Or just the shingles?
Thanks for this video Mr. E! You are giving me the balls to possibly do this.
I love hearing the kids terrorizing the neighborhood in the background. LOL I am going to do this soon. I have watched this vid like 10x. I should be able to do it thanks to you.
Awesome! I love hearing this! I hope it goes smoothly. We live in Utah....there are kids everywhere.
@@mrEnergy511 I did it thanks to your help. No leaks yet. X fingers
The positioning of the flashing was ideal in my opinion, 1/2 way up most any flashing.
Is their a code#or code reference #for this installation procedure
I always use a support box when installing chimney pipe for a wood stove! This install is actualy a built in pre-fab fireplace. The Chimney pipe connected directly to the Fireplace and went up from there. The Fireplace supported the Chimney pipe. Thanks for your kind words.
Great job. What did you strap the straps onto?
DUDE! When you slide the flashing under the shingles lar the hell out of it and put extea roof tar under the shingles you pulled up. If you really want to nail the top lift the top layer of shingles and just go up under the shingle a 1/2 inch so when it lays down the nail will be covered by the top shingle then pot some tar under that and press it down. Hope that helps your balls drop! LOL
I am doing this up on a cabin that doesn't have an attic space. What can I use on the inside to stabilize it? I'm thinking something to attach to the 2 x 4's. Thanks
I am putting in a chimney support box. It is square and penetrates the roof. My flashing is round. Do I cut the hole in the roof round or square?
I am a professional fireplace installer and you could of put the roof flashing under 2 more rows of shingles. The strapping will not hold under high winds, use ridged pipe supports. You don't need the red RTV any 100% silicone will work. The hearth pad you built will crack as the base is on top of carpeting. Remove the carpeting lay cement board down then go ahead with the hearthstones. Make sure you have enough front protection, usually 16"-18".
Where did you find that storm collar for a big pipe like that?
The storm collar comes with the flashing. Most chimney pipe manufacturers make these large flashings and storm collars.
How much would you typically charge for a job like this and what part of the country are you in? Also I see some people continue the shingles all the way down to the bottom so only the bottom middle is exposed it seems like that would work too.
John Smiith I'm in Utah. I charge $450 for a fireplace or wood stove installation
@@mrEnergy511 I’m in Ky (2021 dec) was quoted 2500.00 for 1/2 stove pipe and half class A dbl, plus 1500.00 labor, straight up from stove, total ten feet, ceiling, attic, roof, so here I am diy, thanks for the great info 👍
How come the top flashing doesnt get nailed down by through the shingles and then through the flashing? Do you ever put an extra layer of flashing down like the flashing sheet for your "though the wall" support box install video? Sorry for all the questions posted here, i may just hafta send you a donation if I do this myself, lol. Thx
I have a similar installation to do next weekend. My problem is I am going through my eave and it is shallower than yours and I want to include some sort of flashing. Typical flashing would hang over the side. The other part of this that may create an issue is that it is a steel roof. Any suggestions would be great.
on a metal roof you could use a High Temp rubber boot. and then you won't need a metal flashing.
They can watch TV... the sat signal comes in from the left of that dish anyway...
Looks like Eagle Mountain, UT!
why didn't you show us how you connected the last piece of chimney piping to the existing coming from the bottom?
Great video, however, it appears the flashing is on backwards, the chimney would center on the opening if you turned it 180
The roof flashing may appear backwards but it is installed correctly. If it wasn't the flashing would not lay flat and the pipe would not be level.
Not much beats an original Milwaukee sawzall
I have a question for you....Did you use a ceiling support box or did you just go right through the sheet rock in the ceiling and use a strap attached to the rafters? If you just went through the ceiling did you use some sort of "beauty ring" on the ceiling around the pipe? Good helpful video! Thanks!
All these flashing videos I have watched show just silicon caulking the storm collar. Although you should caulk it as a backup, that is not the recommended way to do that. There should be a larger diameter pipe that slips over that chimney and rests on the storm collar. This way NO water ever comes in contact with the seam between the storm collar and the chimney.
So do you do the same if you have a tin roof? I need to do this on my shop.
Isn’t the flashing upside down?
Thanks for sharing this video. It’s very informative.
Thank you so much! This is so helpful!
You are welcome!
Thank you. Tomorrow i will do the same.
Your putting it that close to the satellite dish.
Do you nail down the exposed flashing?
Chris Layton .... yes..... but I noticed he didn't use nails with a washer to prevent leaks and he didn't seal the nails used with the roofing tar....
Better off using roofing screws.... more secure and they come with rubber washers attached to metal washers....
You should of put the roof flashing under 2 more rows of shingles so you don't see the flashing so much. Throwing nails in the attic is sloppy. You need solid chimney support rods not plumbers straping. Who trained you?
This is my field of expertise.
tonymarony1 it bothered me that the pipe wasn't centered in the flashing.. I've been watching these vids for a few weeks planning my personal installation...seems like less risk of leaking from the storm collar if it was all centered up evem..is that wrong ?
May I ask a question tonymarony1.. Is having a Chimney :Stucco & frame covered 3 wall pipe good material. I'm in process of purchasing a home. This came on report and Inspector says it was a good thing..?
This guy still knows everything about everything yet doesn't put his own video out, but comes home from installing stove pipes all day and then sits in front of the computer to analyze everyone else. Look all I'm saying is, if your so much better then shut up and show us. Trust me I want the best video but not a know it all who is too scared to make a great video for us like he claims he's the best pipe installer in the states
Let me explain from another angle. I know that I'm great at my profession so there's no need for me to watch people trying to do my job better. I don't need to that reassurance because I just know. So Why are you? maybe you're not as confident as you want people to believe. Maybe your secretively lacking on your side and want to be Mr. Know it all on the computer on your wife's couch
How does the top come off a metal chimney
step 1..... run screw though roof from attic....... step 2....... walk around roof until foot bleeds
I sense some sarcasm here.
Go under two more rows...all that water coming down the valley...gutter that close to the bottom of the flange. Hole might have been a bit big. Reason I say that is because your so close to the gutter. Heavy rain with back up in that gutter plus a ton of water coming down the valley and no-where to go. Could back up the roof from the gutter and get in under the bottom of that flange.
***** Your're confused. I'm not talking about the shingles going two more rows under the flange. I'm talking about the flange going two more rows under the shingles. In other words he has to many rows going under the flange and not enough rows going over top of the flange. In this case it's really important because the flange/pipe is real close to the gutter and the valley. Water can back up quickly in a non-functional gutter, non-functional gutter could be as simple as a leaf clogged gutter, therefor the water backing up the valley just enough for water coming down the valley hitting the pond/backed-up water then running around the pond water and in under the flange. Seriously though if you don't understand this your're not really shingle/roofer. If you are a roofer I bet you would be surprised how many leaks you have behind you.
Nice work 👍👍
we get a itty bitty drip coming down our stove pipe (in our living room)....and its random, sometimes nothing when its really raining...sometimes we get the drip on very little rain...it drips onto the base of the double wall stove pipe on top of the woodstove. The flashing looks correct (looking from the ground)...can we try the roof tar, first before swapping out shingles or flashing? The house (and roof and woodstove) is 8 years old. Thanks!
I know what you mean! It's a hard thing to cut a large hole in your roof not knowing if it will leak or be damaged! Just keep in mind you can allways hire a guy if you mess it up too bad!!!
A good amount to roof tar will hold it down!
What are you get the pipes
Where do I purchase the Chimney Pipe? There are several wholesale Chimney suppliers out there. However you do need to be a licensed contractor to purchase from those places. The big box stores will have Chimney Pipe available online or special order desk... They DON'T KNOW HOW IT GOES TOGETHER so they won’t be able to tell you what you need to purchase. Find an Installation manual and study it so you are clear on ALL parts needed for a safe Installation. Thanks for the comment
Thank you .
stupid tv is right!! thanks... now get over here and help me do that LOL
nice picture quality, nice sound great job in less time. Thank you.
Thank you sir.
Thanks a bunch for the quick reply!!!
Very helpful, thanks
good instruction thanks!
If your Wood Stove is set on concrete ZERO clearance! You will need to be 24" off the back to a combustable wall... Also you may want to build a heat sheild wall... Good luck!!!
It’s not even installed right on the roof
Are you available for the same installation in NH?
It would have been helpful for the DIY person to see the job through to completion; nails, caulking. etc. until completely done...
You forgot to put Henry on the nails on the flashing
Great video !! very helpful
that was funny when you pointed out there stupid dish at 9:44
"hope there tv doesn't work" lmao
Yeah I won't do it this way it's not very water and wind-driven rain tight. Also shingles not tiles.
Nice Job
hahaha, wow. I was really thinking this was Rocket science.
thank you very detailed video
lol now they have 'searching for satellite' on screen 9:45
Thank you for your video? i am looking for someone install chimney pipe to replace my old chimney, i do not know if is possible .I am living in lowell MA.If anyone knows someone can do it and of course have license will be better.By the way my house is two family units.I have 2 steam boiler and 2 water heaters,thanks
Welcome! Keep warm with your Wood Stove.
I hope it does! We should all un-plug from the matrix as often as we can!!!
Thanks for the great video it was a lot of help.
YOUR MECHANICS WERE GOOD, JUST VERY SLOOPY WITH THE ROOF TAR AND HIGH TEMP SILICONE
The main goal with a roof flashing is NO LEAKS! Mission accomplished...
he said "can't use too much"
You put the roof flashing on upside down! Or backwards, what ever. The longer slope goes on the downhill side.
NO, Your wrong. 30+ years its right! the flashing is large and has an odd shape cone to allow for air flow at the top. This flashing is also made to adjust to various roof pitches... Not your standard roof flashing, it looks different.
seam goes downhill right?
Looks a little too close to the valley for me.
Thank You!
Awesome video man, thanks.
Hope you have millions in general liability insurance. Capped ,strapped and ready to burn the house down. You get paid to do this?
Wow! In a word (Unbelievable) in two words (Court Room!)
DISH NETWORK SUCKS WITH OR WITHOUT THE PIPE INFRONT!! LOL
Looks like flashing is reversed backwards 😲
I agree the roof flashing looks like it is backwards in the video. If you go to the end of the stove install video you will see that the pipe is level. If the flashing was backwards than the stove pipe would not be level.
Helpful. Thnks.