I have just installed this exact system in my pole garage. I was amazed at how many obstacles I encountered while doing the project. First, after building the proper thimble box inside, n moving to the outside, that where the problems began. We installed the outer wall thimble mount, then proceeded to mount the pipe shelf bracket. (No overhang to work around, just straight shot up.) It's good we pre-fit these with the base 3 way pipe. We discovered, in order to get the 3 way into position, the shelf had to be loose from the wall. Those bolt were behind the outer wall thimble! So everything had to be loose n it was a royal bitch to tighten everything down. After that, we fit 2, 3' sections together. After locking into place, they were still able to pull away from other pipe. Next, we went to screw the upper pipe bracket fast to the top of shop. These holes were not big enough to accommodate the fasteners we had to use to withstand the wind we get here. Lastly, the chimney cap that just snaps into place, would have blown off the 1st wind storm we got. So, we re-enforced all connected pipe with self tapping screws. And the chimney cap, we installed 1" spacers with self tapping screws. Still not sure it will withstand the wind we get here. Make sure you are not planning on a breeze install. If you want it done right, you need to know what you are doing, and the way this stuff goes together is not what it seems. There was more work involved than people make it out to be. I might be petty, but this deals with fire, so proceed with caution.
Very timely video for me! I bought an Ember Hearth fireplace insert that I will install in my pole barn shop as free standing. Every step, including the square-to-round transition is exactly what I want to do! Thanks! Excellent video!
Thanks brother, I appreciate it. That was my exact situation, pulling out the old 80’s wood burning stove from my fireplace and reusing it in my garage.
Thank you for posting your install. Very much!! Dealing with issues with our installer. Figured from day one I'd be installing it myself but good grief. Our soffets do stick out on all for sides of dwelling more than yours do. Hoping I can figure this out and safely as that is all that counts. You did excellently. Appreciate your sharing!
Very cool! Especially so because that's MY Buck Stove. It was here when I moved in in 1990. 33+ years of use & no problems. It'll cook u right out of the house. Only difference i see is your's is free-standing & mine was installed as an insert in the original fureplace (home built in 1951). Not sure if yours has the 2 speed fan. If so, you're gonna love it.
Good looking install. If you don't mind my asking, why did you set the stove right on the floor instead of elevated a bit? I know if that was originally a fireplace insert it wouldn't have legs. We bought a farm where everything was heated with wood. The older gentleman who owned it elevated all of his stoves to waist level. It was great. No bending down to the floor to load, tend, or clean. I know that was a little extreme, but it sure was nice. You're not young forever.
I love this video they're fixing to tear a big barn across the Road from me thank you very very much I love the outcome it's absolutely beautiful and the product information is very good thank you so much😊
Very nice, thanks for posting... I have the same stove. To make it cheaper and easier, I'm just going to put my stove outside on the deck and blow the warm air indoors...
Is there not a code for a specific distance above roof line the cap needs to be? Or, since this building being metal does it not matter? nvm, he answered it right around 6:30
had one unlock once and dam near burned down my building... lol i now use high temp silicone with the lock haha... love them but be aware they can unlock over time... at least with vibration.
Would it be best to screw them together, then unscrew it to clean, then put back? This is why I would rather go through the roof. Fir easier cleaning without having to dismantle it every time to clean it which I believe would cause issues long term and this exterior pipe is expensive.
This is so awesome! I'm interested in installing one of these in my home. It seems like the most economical, natural and comfortable kind of heat source that exists. Just need to figure out how to tie it in to the in-place ventilation system to spread the heat around...
Thank you for doing this video! I need to do the same with my woodstove setup, and you answered a lot of questions I had. I was really pulling my hair out trying to figure the best, and safest way to go through the wall. You are a God-send!
unfortunately Patriot did not follow the NFPA211 recommendations for code compliant installation. Wood behind the cement board. no vertical air space, shield not wide enough for compliance, and a few other issues..
Looks good . I need to get my stove installed at some point. I would recommend installing a simple damper in the stove pipe . It will help control the draft and heat loss .
Hello thank you so much for showing this I need to know if this works on a wooden building and it's not as big as your shop the shop I have has concrete floors but it is wooden built any information you can give me I would be greatly thankful for and thank you again because I have shingles on the top also I have All wood with LP siding on top of plywood of course any help again would be greatly appreciated😊
Is that a buck stove? I have a 26000 being used as a fireplace insert rn. I have a Wonderluxe wood circulator for my primary wood heat. But I love my buck stove. We use it every day. And man does it push some heat. Replacement parts are expensive but definitely worth the money. Looks terrific too
Great video, thanks! I am looking to do almost the same setup but probably going 15 feet higher. Does anyone have a good resource for what angles and vertical rise is acceptable for stove chimneys? I had assumed that having a 90° bend was not to code...maybe I am wrong. Also, there must be some limit on vertical rise. Any help would be appreciated.
I watched your video because I was a little worried about the situation you ran into clearing the roof overhang soffit. About how far does your shop roof come out from your outside wall? I'm pretty sure I'll be ok because you had to go through alot more wall material.
Looks great I want one but I don’t know if I could pull this off as not very diy minded. Really want one though . I think it’s crazy money to have a proffesional in to do, perhaps there is a middle ground, someone skilled enough who I could pay.
Great video! When you installed the Clean Out Tee through the outside wall thimble... Did you use a cauking between the Tee and the Circular hole of the thimble? (to fill the small gap) Much Thanks!!
Love your video! Just started following your channel. I’d like to ask why did you go through the wall versus the roof? My wife and I just started making RUclips videos (Off-Grid on Friday) to chronicle our journey on developing our property. I am hoping to have similar success with my project. Any info on why you went through the wall would be great. Thank you!
we live in nw Montana. Unless you are going through the roof at the peak, the snow will wipe it off the roof when it slides down. Hence, go through the wall for us.
Take the glass window out (glass cannot be within 3 ft of the stove pipe). Put Cement board (with a hole cut for the thimble in it) in the window opening. Then proceed like on the video.
Love your channel, awesome content! I’m about to install a wood stove in my metal building and was going to use the same kit you used. What did you use to attach the duravent kit to your single wall pipe coming off the stove?
Whats the difference between the $299.99 "DuraPlus 6 in. Diameter Chimney Pipe, 36 in., 6DP-36CF" And the $139.99 "DuraVent DuraPlus 36 in. Triple-Wall Stainless Steel Chimney Pipe, 6DP-36SS" What's the "cf" and "ss"? Then maybe il know which I need.
I think it's just the finish but I'm not positive. My kit came with stainless, but the extra section I bought was galvanized. I havnt seen any difference other than looks, both are holding up great...the stainless is shinier....
Good video. When going through the wall with single wall pipe did you use the adapter the kit came with? My kit the adapter is loose on the triple wall side. Just doesn't seem right or am I too paranoid?
If you don’t mind me asking? I’m installing the same kit with a 24” pipe. It’ll put the platform out about 26”. What size and gauge slotted angle iron did you use? I’m thinking I’ll need at least 36” lengths going out to support the weight. Any suggestions?
I saw another video where the guy offset the pipe from the wall quite a bit, and he just sank two 4x4s into the ground to support the bracket. That seems like a pretty good option instead of building a big bracket and bolting it to the wall.
@@deanosmarhebert4258 I ended up building the platform with angle iron, project came out nice and looks great. Saw that video. Thought about the 4x4’s for added stability. But honestly it’s solid the way it is, so probably be overkill.
@@frankcrow4594 Nice! I'm going to be building mine through my house wall and I need to be about 18" out to clear the eave, so I'm thinking I'll do the 4x4 just to give myself something super sturdy to attach to without worrying about the vinyl siding. I won't need a lot of vertical chimney, so it isn't a ton of weight, but I want to be sure that when the T is in place that nothing is going anywhere. This'll be my third chimney install, but the first time I'm going through a wall.
Any issues with the 6 inch pipe? I have a near identical buck stove with the same rectangular 8inch connection. I ran it for a winter with 6 inch pipe (like your set-up) with no issues. im wondering if this is a good idea or not?
Did your single wall just connect to the duravent double wall or did you have to get adapter for it ? I am trying to figure out how to install the non duravent single wall to the duravent double wall. Any advise would be much appreciated 👍
Good point about the heat. More single wall, means more heat " escaping" into the room, which is a good thing in this case. I was gonna go thru the wall, but may switch it up now.
"I installed fireproof rockboard then put a piece of flammable wood behind it." 😆 "Then I sealed it with fireproof spray foam." 😂 Rockwood is your friend, son. Utilize it!
These are designed to go through regular house walls with 2x4s and plywood... The Pipe on the inside is single wall which is the reason for the cement board, the Pipe going through the wall is double wall with an 18in surrounding thimbal...I'm sure the wood behind the cement board is just fine!!! Thanks for your concern and "constructive" comment though🤔🤦♂️!!
I've honestly always been a little skeptical about installing through a wall, can anyone tell me how the draft works through the wall versus through the ceiling/roof? Or is it all 6 to 1 ---- half to the other.
Looks great however idk why these manufacturers don’t tell you that the crimp should go up with the direction of the air flow. So many videos I’ve seen with people installing the small end in the wrong direction. I’ve been doing HVAC for over 25+ years and it makes me cringe when I see people install chimney and dryer vents like this.
Certified Chimney Sweep here- male crimps should always face down so that creosote falls into the piece below and not outside the joint running down the pipe. It has nothing to do with flow of combustion gases.
sorry no thumbs up for you @PatriotDIY that vintage woodstove requires 48" clearance all around its body as per Code Compliance The rear cement board does not constitute a clearance reducing shield if you do not have air movement all around and when you installed the wood cross braces yuo negated the air flow vertically and put a combustible material behind the cement board which will transfer heat. this means the rear wall shield MUST be a minimum of 3" off the floor and 3" off the ceiling [north south flow]and be also mounted 1" off the wall to allow for east west airflow and the shield requires to be 18 - 20" wider than the stove on both sides READ YOUR NFPA211 section 13.6 and the chimney must be a minimum of 36" above the roof surface to be code compliant !!!!! And did you put in three screws per single wall joint and install and expansion joint???
If you watch later videos in the series you will see that I added a heat shield and a fire-rated stone wall, I also mentioned in the video that the chimney would be raised 24" higher as soon as the required parts arrived......did you say 3' off the floor?????? really??? ALSO my building is metal with a concrete floor, I'm not sure 48" clearance all the way around is quite accurate in these conditions.
@@PatriotDIY 3 INCHES off the floor for proper air movement. and 48" all around the stove for clearances to combustibles. Left/ Right Rear and Front RE the second video which shows a short rear heatshield . refer to NFPA211 section 13.6 for the proper installation methods and its great that your building is metal but what are the interior walls made of?? Looks like a combustible material and again you put a combustible material [wood] behind the cement board and blocked the vertical flow of air, which is required for cooling and 50% reduction of clearances
I agree with JBiz180, a better more efficient install would have been straight through the roof. That stove pipe and chimney system is undersized for that stove and will not work optimally, and might smoke when you open the doors. That stove is a dinosaur and very inefficient, you will be going through a significantly more wood than if you had one that was built in the last decade. Also its too short, the chimney doesn't meet the 3-2-10 rule as described in the IRC. Nice install otherwise. I do like the bracket.
I realize the stove is old! That's why I like it! It's been working great! Also i mentioned in the video that the kit didn't come with enough chimney pipe to get the correct hight and that I would be adding another 2 feet of chimey, which I've done now! Thanks for watching!
@@PatriotDIY Haha i kinda skipped through the video. As certified chimney sweep ill tell you honestly, you actually did a great job. If diy homeowners installed as well as you did, id have to find a new job. I was just in a bad mood earlier. :)
No, Scott, your comments were spot on. The installation is good for clearances (assuming the additional triple wall is added on top). But there are slip joints to use for the single wall so you don't cut the pipe. Necking down to 6" may work, but if the stove is meant to have 8" pipe, it usually needs that volume to draw. There are ways to go straight vertical without fear of leaks. Adding the tee and bracket adds cost. Overall a good self-install.
This fire pit is one of a few covered pits that is on the list ruclips.net/user/postUgkxAU9pOCSV9Y5JprooHvfxTpOrt4hx8uRM of approved products for Disney Fort Wilderness. The product served its purpose well and provided excellent fires throughout the evening. We were able to open the door and do s'mores, but I had to be careful because the handle was a bit hot on occasions. Additionally, I wish they had replaced some of the standard nuts with lock nuts in some places. We lost the door handle after just a couple of days of usage. Not a deal breaker, just a recommendation. I still give it 5 stars.
I may be wrong here but your single wall looks to be installed backwards. Each section of pipe should be set over the preceding section, not into it when building off the stove.
If you watch the video you'll know that I said that in the video. The kit only came with 2 sections of the chimney pipe. I added another 2ft section beyond whats shown here to meet suggested clearances and I explained all that in the video! Thanks
I add music so you dont have to sit and watch 8 minutes of timelapse footage in silence lol. What exactly are you asking for more detail on and ill try to help? Each piece of pipe slides and twist locks into the one before it. The kit also comes with very thorough instructions that you can reference, I would not reccomend relying on the RUclips video alone.
You really should not have the horizontal piece at the top going through the wall………that should be a vertical angle….that would be illegal in this country..
Sooooo what would be the point of a "through the wall kit" if you can't have the angle at the top? "Vertical" would be a "through the roof kit" Straight up is certainly more efficient.. but then you have to worry about roof leaks....through the wall works just fine!
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Wood stove update! ruclips.net/user/shorts9gmwm9A9b_4?si=JO8NCGz-gWFuPJrq
I have just installed this exact system in my pole garage. I was amazed at how many obstacles I encountered while doing the project. First, after building the proper thimble box inside, n moving to the outside, that where the problems began. We installed the outer wall thimble mount, then proceeded to mount the pipe shelf bracket. (No overhang to work around, just straight shot up.) It's good we pre-fit these with the base 3 way pipe. We discovered, in order to get the 3 way into position, the shelf had to be loose from the wall. Those bolt were behind the outer wall thimble! So everything had to be loose n it was a royal bitch to tighten everything down. After that, we fit 2, 3' sections together. After locking into place, they were still able to pull away from other pipe. Next, we went to screw the upper pipe bracket fast to the top of shop. These holes were not big enough to accommodate the fasteners we had to use to withstand the wind we get here. Lastly, the chimney cap that just snaps into place, would have blown off the 1st wind storm we got. So, we re-enforced all connected pipe with self tapping screws. And the chimney cap, we installed 1" spacers with self tapping screws. Still not sure it will withstand the wind we get here. Make sure you are not planning on a breeze install. If you want it done right, you need to know what you are doing, and the way this stuff goes together is not what it seems. There was more work involved than people make it out to be. I might be petty, but this deals with fire, so proceed with caution.
Very timely video for me! I bought an Ember Hearth fireplace insert that I will install in my pole barn shop as free standing. Every step, including the square-to-round transition is exactly what I want to do!
Thanks! Excellent video!
Glad you pointed out the pipe needed another section still. Should be 2 feet above any roof point within 10 feet of the penrtration, if I recall.
Thanks brother, I appreciate it. That was my exact situation, pulling out the old 80’s wood burning stove from my fireplace and reusing it in my garage.
Thank you for posting your install. Very much!! Dealing with issues with our installer. Figured from day one I'd be installing it myself but good grief. Our soffets do stick out on all for sides of dwelling more than yours do. Hoping I can figure this out and safely as that is all that counts. You did excellently.
Appreciate your sharing!
Thanks and good luck!
The flue getd hotter with elbows !! Strait up through the roof is best
Great video!! Liked and subscribed!! Getting ready to do this in our 40x30 shop we just finished out! Thanks for the detailed video. Super helpful!!
Great video!
We'll be purchasing this kit in the near future. Thank you for uploading this video.
Very helpful I agree.
Very cool! Especially so because that's MY Buck Stove.
It was here when I moved in in 1990. 33+ years of use & no problems. It'll cook u right out of the house.
Only difference i see is your's is free-standing & mine was installed as an insert in the original fureplace (home built in 1951). Not sure if yours has the 2 speed fan. If so, you're gonna love it.
Thanks, I have to install one in my cinder block garage asap. It really helps to visualize it going up, thanks
IAM doing a 8 inch stove pipe Thur the wall just because I have had a few roof leaks in the past
Verry nice, you do have a long flue pipe inside so all should be well, but in general two 45's are better than one 90.
Yeah I hadn't thought of doing 2 45s, may change it eventually
Good looking install. If you don't mind my asking, why did you set the stove right on the floor instead of elevated a bit? I know if that was originally a fireplace insert it wouldn't have legs. We bought a farm where everything was heated with wood. The older gentleman who owned it elevated all of his stoves to waist level. It was great. No bending down to the floor to load, tend, or clean. I know that was a little extreme, but it sure was nice. You're not young forever.
It's not directly on the floor, it's on blocks
I love this video they're fixing to tear a big barn across the Road from me thank you very very much I love the outcome it's absolutely beautiful and the product information is very good thank you so much😊
Very nice, thanks for posting...
I have the same stove. To make it cheaper and easier, I'm just going to put my stove outside on the deck and blow the warm air indoors...
Finally! A good vid on this install!
Is there not a code for a specific distance above roof line the cap needs to be? Or, since this building being metal does it not matter? nvm, he answered it right around 6:30
had one unlock once and dam near burned down my building... lol i now use high temp silicone with the lock haha... love them but be aware they can unlock over time... at least with vibration.
Would it be best to screw them together, then unscrew it to clean, then put back? This is why I would rather go through the roof. Fir easier cleaning without having to dismantle it every time to clean it which I believe would cause issues long term and this exterior pipe is expensive.
The kit should be designed with the top plate to be ajustable. 2" max from wall is just rediculous.
Great video!
This is so awesome! I'm interested in installing one of these in my home. It seems like the most economical, natural and comfortable kind of heat source that exists.
Just need to figure out how to tie it in to the in-place ventilation system to spread the heat around...
Thank you for doing this video! I need to do the same with my woodstove setup, and you answered a lot of questions I had. I was really pulling my hair out trying to figure the best, and safest way to go through the wall. You are a God-send!
unfortunately Patriot did not follow the NFPA211 recommendations for code compliant installation. Wood behind the cement board. no vertical air space, shield not wide enough for compliance, and a few other issues..
Good job but should consider flue shouldn’t be 90 degrees bend and where is fresh air intake for fire triangle ❤
Glue a stick onto that dimple in the metal and pull it out, then scrape off the glue.
Best video I’ve seen!! Thank you
Awesome video - that is what I was looking for.
Looks good . I need to get my stove installed at some point. I would recommend installing a simple damper in the stove pipe . It will help control the draft and heat loss .
Thanks! The stove does have its own damper though!
Man love your channel. You keep it so simple and you explain it well. Thank you keep up the great work. Happy Nee Year
Thanks! Glad I can help!
Hello thank you so much for showing this I need to know if this works on a wooden building and it's not as big as your shop the shop I have has concrete floors but it is wooden built any information you can give me I would be greatly thankful for and thank you again because I have shingles on the top also I have All wood with LP siding on top of plywood of course any help again would be greatly appreciated😊
Proper job guys! Thanks, from England!
Nice work !
Isn't the 90 degrees turn something to be concerned about ? It will most likely get very messy very quickly right ?
@@lustucrugf5591 ruclips.net/user/shorts9gmwm9A9b_4?si=JO8NCGz-gWFuPJrq
@@PatriotDIY Damn even the smoke was staying, that's impressive !
Thanks for the explanations sir
What type of pipe goes through the wall and how? Does it connect to the black pipe? Is it a bracket? How thick of a wall could I use this on?
It's a triple wall pipe through the wall with a larger thimbal that separates it from the wall material. The link for the kit is in the description.
Is that a buck stove? I have a 26000 being used as a fireplace insert rn. I have a Wonderluxe wood circulator for my primary wood heat. But I love my buck stove. We use it every day. And man does it push some heat. Replacement parts are expensive but definitely worth the money. Looks terrific too
It sure is!
Great video, thanks! I am looking to do almost the same setup but probably going 15 feet higher. Does anyone have a good resource for what angles and vertical rise is acceptable for stove chimneys? I had assumed that having a 90° bend was not to code...maybe I am wrong. Also, there must be some limit on vertical rise. Any help would be appreciated.
I'd use two 45's to reduce the angles going through a wall.
I watched your video because I was a little worried about the situation you ran into clearing the roof overhang soffit. About how far does your shop roof come out from your outside wall? I'm pretty sure I'll be ok because you had to go through alot more wall material.
Where do the T-Bolts go?
How high does the pipe have to go up inside before you can do a 90 degree angle out the wall?
No clue honestly, I just went as high as I could...about 12 ft
Looks great I want one but I don’t know if I could pull this off as not very diy minded. Really want one though . I think it’s crazy money to have a proffesional in to do, perhaps there is a middle ground, someone skilled enough who I could pay.
Good job
thank you simple and easy , very clear
How did u anchor stove pipe to roof going out the wall, please
So why can't you use the cheaper black stove pipe outside for the external section of your chimney?
@@divorce-split mainly because it will rust, but also it's not insulated and more likely to cause fire
Great video!
When you installed the Clean Out Tee through the outside wall thimble...
Did you use a cauking between the Tee and the Circular hole of the thimble? (to fill the small gap)
Much Thanks!!
Yes! Fire block caulk
So the outside pipe has to be 4ft or 6 ft from the roof
How do you cut cement board?
How many feet off the ground to be leagal
(Gas fumes)
How did you attach the rectangular part to the stove with those screws? I have the same part for my stove that just came in. Thanks for your help!
You attach it from the inside
Can I do that in a mobile home?
how is this working out combined with the insulation? I have a monster wood stove in my 30x30 and it does very little to heat the shop
I've had it up to 76 in the shop on 32 degree nights.
Do you have a link for the black pipe? Does the kit come with this black inside pipe?
Love your video! Just started following your channel. I’d like to ask why did you go through the wall versus the roof? My wife and I just started making RUclips videos (Off-Grid on Friday) to chronicle our journey on developing our property. I am hoping to have similar success with my project. Any info on why you went through the wall would be great. Thank you!
Thanks! really the only reason was because through the wall is less likely to have water leak issues.
we live in nw Montana. Unless you are going through the roof at the peak, the snow will wipe it off the roof when it slides down. Hence, go through the wall for us.
Is it single black pipe in the wall to outside of triple insulation pipe
@@ImOutdoorzManTv no, the kit has a triple wall peice that goes through the wall
How did u create the hearth with pavers? Do they need to b grouted, or can u just lay them next to each other?
I didn't grout them or glue them, just layied them in place!
Awesome video! Helps me a ton on my upcoming first time install!
I am thinking about going through and existing basement window for a stove downstairs. Any suggestions about how to go about it?
Take the glass window out (glass cannot be within 3 ft of the stove pipe). Put Cement board (with a hole cut for the thimble in it) in the window opening. Then proceed like on the video.
Where do you find the bracket material to extend the pipe out? Thanks!
Lowes and home depot have it
What bout existing wall studs? Are you cutting the hole in between studs?
between the studs
Love your channel, awesome content! I’m about to install a wood stove in my metal building and was going to use the same kit you used. What did you use to attach the duravent kit to your single wall pipe coming off the stove?
I have the same stove need that rectangle part on top don’t see the link for it thanks
The link is in the description. It's called something like rectangle to round buck stove stack
@@PatriotDIY
Thanks
I was shocked to find that stainless insulated duravent costs $80/ft
Insulated pipe is only required when going through a ceiling/wall(combustible).
Whats the difference between the $299.99 "DuraPlus 6 in. Diameter Chimney Pipe, 36 in., 6DP-36CF"
And the $139.99 "DuraVent DuraPlus 36 in. Triple-Wall Stainless Steel Chimney Pipe, 6DP-36SS"
What's the "cf" and "ss"? Then maybe il know which I need.
Just the galvanized material? That's a big price difference. Wonder if I need the galvanized? Last longer?
I think it's just the finish but I'm not positive. My kit came with stainless, but the extra section I bought was galvanized. I havnt seen any difference other than looks, both are holding up great...the stainless is shinier....
@@PatriotDIY thanks. The difference in price is double. And we have no one around here in the Rockies, guess the more affordable will work 👍
Is the flue tee piece made from foil
No
Good video. When going through the wall with single wall pipe did you use the adapter the kit came with? My kit the adapter is loose on the triple wall side. Just doesn't seem right or am I too paranoid?
I used the one from the kit
I have exactly the same as you installed how did it work out with going to 6" from the 8" stack?
No problems!
very informative , thank you !!
If you don’t mind me asking? I’m installing the same kit with a 24” pipe. It’ll put the platform out about 26”. What size and gauge slotted angle iron did you use? I’m thinking I’ll need at least 36” lengths going out to support the weight. Any suggestions?
I saw another video where the guy offset the pipe from the wall quite a bit, and he just sank two 4x4s into the ground to support the bracket. That seems like a pretty good option instead of building a big bracket and bolting it to the wall.
@@deanosmarhebert4258 I ended up building the platform with angle iron, project came out nice and looks great. Saw that video. Thought about the 4x4’s for added stability. But honestly it’s solid the way it is, so probably be overkill.
@@frankcrow4594 Nice! I'm going to be building mine through my house wall and I need to be about 18" out to clear the eave, so I'm thinking I'll do the 4x4 just to give myself something super sturdy to attach to without worrying about the vinyl siding. I won't need a lot of vertical chimney, so it isn't a ton of weight, but I want to be sure that when the T is in place that nothing is going anywhere. This'll be my third chimney install, but the first time I'm going through a wall.
@@deanosmarhebert4258 👍🏻 sounds like a good plan.. Have fun with the project!
Was there any issues with reducing from 8 in to 6 in?
No
@@PatriotDIY thanks.. very helpful
What is the rough opening through the wall for the kit?
Its been a while but Off the top of my head I think 14-16in
Any issues with the 6 inch pipe? I have a near identical buck stove with the same rectangular 8inch connection. I ran it for a winter with 6 inch pipe (like your set-up) with no issues. im wondering if this is a good idea or not?
I havnt had any problems, only run it for 1 winter also but havnt had any issues
Did your single wall just connect to the duravent double wall or did you have to get adapter for it ? I am trying to figure out how to install the non duravent single wall to the duravent double wall. Any advise would be much appreciated 👍
Mine fit into the double wall
What that in the corner of your shop black barrel ?
Dust collection system for woodworking
How is that wall thimble holding up? I’m doing a wood stove but am apprehensive about the thimble not having enough space between combustibles.
Holding up well!
After a year, how do ya like it??
Love it!
Thanks! very nice video
Where did you get the angle iron? I have to do something similar.
Lowes
Any issues going 8 to 6 inch?
I didn't have any
Through the roof is a way better option. Better draft more single wall which means more heat easier to clean and cheaper option.
Good point about the heat. More single wall, means more heat " escaping" into the room, which is a good thing in this case. I was gonna go thru the wall, but may switch it up now.
I noticed right away it's not high enough.
Hmm. Didn't know concrete could catch on fire? What are the pavers made out of, not concrete!?
The pavers are just to raise it off the ground a little more and mostly because it looks cool
Where is your damper?
On the front of the stove, handle near the top
That dang rectangular to round transition isn't showing up!
@Cephous67 Thanks for letting me know, here's an updated link! bit.ly/4e20TBW
@@PatriotDIY I went back & noticed it appeared. Thanks for the video.
@PatriotDIY where did you find the piece that drops the stove adaptor from 8" to the 6" pipe?
wheres the fire test?
Great video. I am planning on an installation in my shop very similar. This helped allot.
Link for the adapter
In description
"I installed fireproof rockboard then put a piece of flammable wood behind it." 😆 "Then I sealed it with fireproof spray foam." 😂 Rockwood is your friend, son. Utilize it!
These are designed to go through regular house walls with 2x4s and plywood... The Pipe on the inside is single wall which is the reason for the cement board, the Pipe going through the wall is double wall with an 18in surrounding thimbal...I'm sure the wood behind the cement board is just fine!!! Thanks for your concern and "constructive" comment though🤔🤦♂️!!
I've honestly always been a little skeptical about installing through a wall, can anyone tell me how the draft works through the wall versus through the ceiling/roof? Or is it all 6 to 1 ---- half to the other.
Through the roof draws better but I didn't wanna worry about water leaks
I can tell you my manufacture of stove pipe says that all horizontal installed pipe has to slope 1/4” per foot of pipe
Looks great however idk why these manufacturers don’t tell you that the crimp should go up with the direction of the air flow. So many videos I’ve seen with people installing the small end in the wrong direction. I’ve been doing HVAC for over 25+ years and it makes me cringe when I see people install chimney and dryer vents like this.
Certified Chimney Sweep here- male crimps should always face down so that creosote falls into the piece below and not outside the joint running down the pipe. It has nothing to do with flow of combustion gases.
you didn't show the through the wall
Love your hat! 👍🏻
Music too loud
You dented the base tee, ooops
Yep
❤
sorry no thumbs up for you
@PatriotDIY that vintage woodstove requires 48" clearance all around its body as per Code Compliance
The rear cement board does not constitute a clearance reducing shield if you do not have air movement all around
and when you installed the wood cross braces yuo negated the air flow vertically and put a combustible material behind the cement board which will transfer heat.
this means the rear wall shield MUST be a minimum of 3" off the floor and 3" off the ceiling [north south flow]and be also mounted 1" off the wall to allow for east west airflow
and the shield requires to be 18 - 20" wider than the stove on both sides READ YOUR NFPA211 section 13.6
and the chimney must be a minimum of 36" above the roof surface to be code compliant !!!!!
And did you put in three screws per single wall joint and install and expansion joint???
If you watch later videos in the series you will see that I added a heat shield and a fire-rated stone wall, I also mentioned in the video that the chimney would be raised 24" higher as soon as the required parts arrived......did you say 3' off the floor?????? really??? ALSO my building is metal with a concrete floor, I'm not sure 48" clearance all the way around is quite accurate in these conditions.
@@PatriotDIY 3 INCHES off the floor for proper air movement. and 48" all around the stove for clearances to combustibles. Left/ Right Rear and Front
RE the second video which shows a short rear heatshield . refer to NFPA211 section 13.6 for the proper installation methods
and its great that your building is metal but what are the interior walls made of?? Looks like a combustible material and again you put a combustible material [wood] behind the cement board and blocked the vertical flow of air, which is required for cooling and 50% reduction of clearances
I agree with JBiz180, a better more efficient install would have been straight through the roof. That stove pipe and chimney system is undersized for that stove and will not work optimally, and might smoke when you open the doors. That stove is a dinosaur and very inefficient, you will be going through a significantly more wood than if you had one that was built in the last decade. Also its too short, the chimney doesn't meet the 3-2-10 rule as described in the IRC. Nice install otherwise. I do like the bracket.
I realize the stove is old! That's why I like it! It's been working great! Also i mentioned in the video that the kit didn't come with enough chimney pipe to get the correct hight and that I would be adding another 2 feet of chimey, which I've done now! Thanks for watching!
@@PatriotDIY Haha i kinda skipped through the video. As certified chimney sweep ill tell you honestly, you actually did a great job. If diy homeowners installed as well as you did, id have to find a new job. I was just in a bad mood earlier. :)
No, Scott, your comments were spot on. The installation is good for clearances (assuming the additional triple wall is added on top). But there are slip joints to use for the single wall so you don't cut the pipe. Necking down to 6" may work, but if the stove is meant to have 8" pipe, it usually needs that volume to draw. There are ways to go straight vertical without fear of leaks. Adding the tee and bracket adds cost. Overall a good self-install.
This fire pit is one of a few covered pits that is on the list ruclips.net/user/postUgkxAU9pOCSV9Y5JprooHvfxTpOrt4hx8uRM of approved products for Disney Fort Wilderness. The product served its purpose well and provided excellent fires throughout the evening. We were able to open the door and do s'mores, but I had to be careful because the handle was a bit hot on occasions. Additionally, I wish they had replaced some of the standard nuts with lock nuts in some places. We lost the door handle after just a couple of days of usage. Not a deal breaker, just a recommendation. I still give it 5 stars.
Well your lucky. This is illegal in my county. It had to go through the roof.
all well and good until you have to clean the pipes for that mess, you can't use a brush so you'll have to take it all apart.
I may be wrong here but your single wall looks to be installed backwards. Each section of pipe should be set over the preceding section, not into it when building off the stove.
It's too short.....
If you watch the video you'll know that I said that in the video. The kit only came with 2 sections of the chimney pipe. I added another 2ft section beyond whats shown here to meet suggested clearances and I explained all that in the video!
Thanks
you need less music and more detail on putting the pipe in
I add music so you dont have to sit and watch 8 minutes of timelapse footage in silence lol.
What exactly are you asking for more detail on and ill try to help?
Each piece of pipe slides and twist locks into the one before it. The kit also comes with very thorough instructions that you can reference, I would not reccomend relying on the RUclips video alone.
You really should not have the horizontal piece at the top going through the wall………that should be a vertical angle….that would be illegal in this country..
Sooooo what would be the point of a "through the wall kit" if you can't have the angle at the top? "Vertical" would be a "through the roof kit"
Straight up is certainly more efficient.. but then you have to worry about roof leaks....through the wall works just fine!