I've shifted from rtw shirts to mtm by Maximilian Mogg, since his style in terms of cuffs and collars as well as his nicely curated fabric choices are fantastic. Long cuffs, longer, more dramatic collars... I don't look back.
I nailed down my collar size and slim fit, but in picking a shirt for a work presentation I was aghast to find out I had some shirts that were way too long in the sleeve. The look was very wrinkled and baggy above the elbow.
@ James Smith. When I was a young Banker, 60 years ago Tellers were not allowed to take off their suit coat. Because the paper based money that you had to count was often very dirty, and stained the cuffs of a shirt, many tellers wore stylish armbands to shorten the length of the sleeve under the suit coat I thought that you may consider wearing armbands as astylish solution, seeing you have already bought the shirt. I have seen ones with a woven finish in major Department Stores, and metal ones similar to watch bands for sale in the Jewelry section of Charity Shops. They look real swish. Phil.
I think a hidden benefit of OTR shirts is that they're the easiest to shop for used. I don't think I'll ever feel comfortable buying a bespoke or a MTM shirt off of Ebay because they're made to fit a person's peculiarities.
2:40 In high school we had a uniform, that everyone hated and we all tried to get around wearing it. It was a white shirt that had the school logo, but the feel of the shirt was like wearing a plastic bag. Really low quality, badly fitting and overpriced. I think that my hatred of shirts is partly because of that uniform. In order to be let in school you had to be wearing it, we were checked at the front entrance. One classmate cut around half of the sleeve of the shirt and would put it on his arm. When it was winter and he had a thick jacket, in order to show that he had the shirt, he would pullout just the tip of the sleeve from under all his other clothes and that is how he got passed security.
Great video. I have seen this slippers now a lot of times. I would really like to geh them, are they quite an old prototype or are they going to come in the shop?
MTM is the perfect compromise as they fit way better than Off the rack and are more customisable but just a bit under bespoke. However some bespoke shirts are 210-250€, so I would always go with that as good MTM also cost 150-180€.
Something not quite mentioned here, is that, depending on the off-the-rack shirt, you can get better quality (in terms of material and make) with an off-the-rack shirt than some MTM or even bespoke shirts. For example, Simon Crompton at Permanent Style sells OTR/RTW shirts that are made by Luca Avitable atelier in Italy (or at least the collar, sleeve, buttons, and button holes are all handmade). I found that even the armhole was noticeably higher than my bespoke shirts from Camisería Burgos. My bespoke shirts are handmade, fit absolutely amazing, and I'd say still fit better and are as good in terms of quality, but the RTW shirt is very close. However, I'd argue that the Permanent Style shirt is better than my Proper Cloth shirts (I also love my Proper Cloth shirts btw). All that to say that comparing products based on how they're made (OTR, MTM, Bespoke) is very complicated. You all did a wonderful job in this video, just wanted to throw in my two cents from a recent experience. Look forward to the rest of the series.
At 5'6 and weight of 126, I have to dig to find any OTR shirt that gets close to my fit. I've given up on stores and started a new wardrobe with online made to measure.
It'd be cool if some OTR companies offered some kind of MTM option. There's one company I really like the fabrics they use, and some of the ways they make their shirts. But they don't have my collar and arm size. Either I have the right arms, shoulders, and chest, but too small a collar, or I get the right collar, but everything else is too big. I still like their shirts though
What an interesting presentation. My Mother's family were working in the heart of the Fahion Manufacturing Industry,, in Richmond Victoria, with the first photograph taken of me, when I was about nine months was outside of the Australian Knitting Mill in Tanner St, where my Uncle was the Chief Engineer. It was next door to famous stocking and lingerie manufacture Kayser, where my mother had been the M.D.'s secretary. Behind those two factoriess, facing onto the Richmond Railway Station was the Shirt Factory, that started Henry Buck's who are still the premium Menswear store in Australia. Tim Cecil, a memer of the Family that founded Henry Buck's and still operates it operates a custom shirt manufacturing business under the brand name Cecil. I thought that you may enjoy using Google to look at what is being done by Tim Cecil in what is still the Fashion Centre of Australia, namely Melbourne. That is not a biased opinion because I still claim to be a Sydneysider. But I know how well the $250-300 shirts are made, because I have seven of them, all beatifully ironed, hanging in my wardrobe, that I bought in the Salvation Army Charity Shop in South Melbourne, where the waterside city, that was the heart of Organised Crime in Australia is in the process of becoming "Gentrified" and the world class brands of prestige mens clothing, sold by Henry Bucks can be found. Before COVID closed the Salvo's Shop, I bought two suits made in American by premium firms, with pices in the order of $3,000-3,500 for $28 each. They both had the customers names emroided inside the coats, and the custom Order Numbers inside the coat pockets. They fitted me perfectly, so I did not have to take my usual trip to the Tailor. I looked up both of the names emboided inside the jacket and found that they were high profile Businessmen who had recently shifted their homes into the prestigous Docklands area. And the professionally washed and ironed shirts, still on their hanges, cost me $A7.00 each, the price of having them sent to a quality Dry Cleaner. So I am now dressed in the same quality of Recycled Vintage Clothes that are featured on GG, but these are current fashion and appear to have never been worn. So now that the COVID Shopping Ban has been lifted this month in Melbourne, I am off to see what wealthy people got bored in the very long Lockdown, then threw out their existing clothes in order to find an excuse to go shopping again. And I really enjoyed the History Lesson. Phil.
Having breezed out of Europe it’s nice to see some “British” shirt makers becoming established in the USA. Unfortunately one thing that didn’t quite make the transition was the pronunciation of one of the makers. Charles Tyrwhitt should be pronounced “Charles Tirit” so as to rhyme with “Spirit” I hope this saves you being accosted by irate Viewers from this side of the pond. Thanks so much for another enlightening video. You maintain a superb balance of historical and modern day content. Keep as healthy as you possibly can in these challenging times, all the best, Al.
For whatever reason, I'm more a TM Lewin guy, and I'll gladly visit one of their shops as soon as we can take the Eurostar freely again.. But most of my shirts are German brands, mainly Olymp and Eterna, with some Seidenstickers thrown in. The extra sleeve length on a size 45-46 is just what I need... I'm still hoping to be able to get a tweed ensemble next time I'm up in Scotland, I didn't have the means to go entirely wild last time in Inverness, but there was one that I really wish I had bought...
For good off the rack shirts may I recommend Mason & Sons, the price might be a little high but the quality and fit are amazing. If you wanted to look like sean connery they have the cocktail cuff shirts.
Can somebody help. I love Charles Tyrwhitt button up shirts. But I’m looking for this brands equivalent in a polo with left pocket? I’m heard the CT has polos but some people don’t recommend? What are some other companies like them that are known for decent price point and quality for polo shirts?
I think OTR are the best for men under 30. Any alteratioms can be made by tailor. I think OTR are the best overall because pf the price and convenience for 99% of men.
The detachable collar at least, goes back to 1827 apparently. Very popular with the middle class since they could not afford to launder their clothes as much.
Yeah I know they are not good in quality but I like the convenience of using them without need to iron everytime your wear as they get very less wrinkles definitely not good for winter season as material is thin but good for summers and their fit is really modern fit so moral of the story is every brand has some pros and cons
If the “dress shirt” was underwear, what was the clothes item that Clark Gable ruined the market thereof when he removed it in “It Happened One Night”?
Not even going to watch the video before commenting, will edit if I think it is needed. But I have long arms and a size 14 neck. My arm length is about a large, and my neck is small. Off the rack is a nightmare for me. Most of the coats I buy, I tend to get custom made, Just so that they fit me well. Why: I have yet to invest in a proper suit, Though I do enjoy old fashion tailcoats, so meh. Got a lot of them.
Those loafers look absolutely ridiculous Edit: I owe you an explanation. I think the material looks a bit cheap and the fact that there is a huge logo on it doesn’t seem very gentlemanly to me. I would find them acceptable as an indoor slipper if it didn’t have the logo. Anyway, love the videos
You old folks need to get over yourselves about seeing logos, it has literally nothing to do with being "gentlemanly" or being in poor taste. Those cord trousers are nasty however.
People must have smelled disgusting back in those days. Bathing one once a week, wearing the same clothes every day, no deodorant, women not shaving or waxing.... Yeecchhh!!!
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Without a doubt, the BEST men’s style channel on RUclips. Thanks for everything you do GG!
Thank you so much for the shout out, Boss! 😁 That was a lovely surprise!
Now we have a new cool channel to subscribe to.
Can you please do an "Is it worth it" on Turnbull and Asser shirts?
What about Budd?
they are worth it. And it is Turnbull...
Turnbull and Asser are worth every penny
*I've seen things I never wanted too, looks like the lockdown is getting to Raphael too*
No, he has shown his balls multiple times, and it is as scaring every time
Mans is packing🔥
It's getting worse. Gentlemen, we must stop this madness.
@@tunay2k But he does obviously not have good taste
@@adrianostberg2337 Your not wrong.
Off the rack shirts are great as long as you find a brand, size, and fit within that brand that fits your body type perfectly and stick to it.
... and then you dispair when you expand like cake dough because of lock-down and stress eating. *sigh*.
Perfect timing on this. I just ordered an MTM shirt myself. Looking forward to it. Cheers.
My kids spotted you reading “The Italian Gentleman”! Great read!
I've slightly shorter arms so I wear the arm garters when the shirt is a bit long.
4:12 - I always wait for the money b-roll shots. I swear they are in every video. My personal favorite is the close up of the counting of the bills.
Love this channel you guys always help me out!!!!
I've shifted from rtw shirts to mtm by Maximilian Mogg, since his style in terms of cuffs and collars as well as his nicely curated fabric choices are fantastic. Long cuffs, longer, more dramatic collars... I don't look back.
I nailed down my collar size and slim fit, but in picking a shirt for a work presentation I was aghast to find out I had some shirts that were way too long in the sleeve. The look was very wrinkled and baggy above the elbow.
@ James Smith. When I was a young Banker, 60 years ago Tellers were not allowed to take off their suit coat. Because the paper based money that you had to count was often very dirty, and stained the cuffs of a shirt, many tellers wore stylish armbands to shorten the length of the sleeve under the suit coat I thought that you may consider wearing armbands as astylish solution, seeing you have already bought the shirt. I have seen ones with a woven finish in major Department Stores, and metal ones similar to watch bands for sale in the Jewelry section of Charity Shops. They look real swish. Phil.
I think a hidden benefit of OTR shirts is that they're the easiest to shop for used. I don't think I'll ever feel comfortable buying a bespoke or a MTM shirt off of Ebay because they're made to fit a person's peculiarities.
2:40 In high school we had a uniform, that everyone hated and we all tried to get around wearing it. It was a white shirt that had the school logo, but the feel of the shirt was like wearing a plastic bag. Really low quality, badly fitting and overpriced. I think that my hatred of shirts is partly because of that uniform.
In order to be let in school you had to be wearing it, we were checked at the front entrance. One classmate cut around half of the sleeve of the shirt and would put it on his arm. When it was winter and he had a thick jacket, in order to show that he had the shirt, he would pullout just the tip of the sleeve from under all his other clothes and that is how he got passed security.
So crazy true! The struggle is real. Large neck shoulders then slim waste. It's a time consuming for sure. Still have not found mine yet.
Great video. I have seen this slippers now a lot of times. I would really like to geh them, are they quite an old prototype or are they going to come in the shop?
MTM is the perfect compromise as they fit way better than Off the rack and are more customisable but just a bit under bespoke.
However some bespoke shirts are 210-250€, so I would always go with that as good MTM also cost 150-180€.
5:56 - Oooh, a new counting money b-roll shot! Burning money!
Something not quite mentioned here, is that, depending on the off-the-rack shirt, you can get better quality (in terms of material and make) with an off-the-rack shirt than some MTM or even bespoke shirts.
For example, Simon Crompton at Permanent Style sells OTR/RTW shirts that are made by Luca Avitable atelier in Italy (or at least the collar, sleeve, buttons, and button holes are all handmade). I found that even the armhole was noticeably higher than my bespoke shirts from Camisería Burgos.
My bespoke shirts are handmade, fit absolutely amazing, and I'd say still fit better and are as good in terms of quality, but the RTW shirt is very close. However, I'd argue that the Permanent Style shirt is better than my Proper Cloth shirts (I also love my Proper Cloth shirts btw).
All that to say that comparing products based on how they're made (OTR, MTM, Bespoke) is very complicated. You all did a wonderful job in this video, just wanted to throw in my two cents from a recent experience. Look forward to the rest of the series.
Details! Yes they are important!
At 5'6 and weight of 126, I have to dig to find any OTR shirt that gets close to my fit. I've given up on stores and started a new wardrobe with online made to measure.
I love your channel it’s far superior to other RUclips clothes and style channels.
This channel is fantastic
It'd be cool if some OTR companies offered some kind of MTM option. There's one company I really like the fabrics they use, and some of the ways they make their shirts. But they don't have my collar and arm size. Either I have the right arms, shoulders, and chest, but too small a collar, or I get the right collar, but everything else is too big. I still like their shirts though
6:20 - There's the classic. Nervously counting money shot.
What an interesting presentation. My Mother's family were working in the heart of the Fahion Manufacturing Industry,, in Richmond Victoria, with the first photograph taken of me, when I was about nine months was outside of the Australian Knitting Mill in Tanner St, where my Uncle was the Chief Engineer. It was next door to famous stocking and lingerie manufacture Kayser, where my mother had been the M.D.'s secretary. Behind those two factoriess, facing onto the Richmond Railway Station was the Shirt Factory, that started Henry Buck's who are still the premium Menswear store in Australia. Tim Cecil, a memer of the Family that founded Henry Buck's and still operates it operates a custom shirt manufacturing business under the brand name Cecil.
I thought that you may enjoy using Google to look at what is being done by Tim Cecil in what is still the Fashion Centre of Australia, namely Melbourne. That is not a biased opinion because I still claim to be a Sydneysider. But I know how well the $250-300 shirts are made, because I have seven of them, all beatifully ironed, hanging in my wardrobe, that I bought in the Salvation Army Charity Shop in South Melbourne, where the waterside city, that was the heart of Organised Crime in Australia is in the process of becoming "Gentrified" and the world class brands of prestige mens clothing, sold by Henry Bucks can be found. Before COVID closed the Salvo's Shop, I bought two suits made in American by premium firms, with pices in the order of $3,000-3,500 for $28 each. They both had the customers names emroided inside the coats, and the custom Order Numbers inside the coat pockets. They fitted me perfectly, so I did not have to take my usual trip to the Tailor. I looked up both of the names emboided inside the jacket and found that they were high profile Businessmen who had recently shifted their homes into the prestigous Docklands area. And the professionally washed and ironed shirts, still on their hanges, cost me $A7.00 each, the price of having them sent to a quality Dry Cleaner.
So I am now dressed in the same quality of Recycled Vintage Clothes that are featured on GG, but these are current fashion and appear to have never been worn. So now that the COVID Shopping Ban has been lifted this month in Melbourne, I am off to see what wealthy people got bored in the very long Lockdown, then threw out their existing clothes in order to find an excuse to go shopping again. And I really enjoyed the History Lesson. Phil.
Hello Raphael, I’d like to ask it’s OK wear beige suit with black and White spectator shoes?
Love this channel
Omg the GG what do you think about lacoste polo shirts
Looking forward to the series! Excellent video.
Having breezed out of Europe it’s nice to see some “British” shirt makers becoming established in the USA. Unfortunately one thing that didn’t quite make the transition was the pronunciation of one of the makers.
Charles Tyrwhitt should be pronounced “Charles Tirit” so as to rhyme with “Spirit”
I hope this saves you being accosted by irate Viewers from this side of the pond.
Thanks so much for another enlightening video. You maintain a superb balance of historical and modern day content.
Keep as healthy as you possibly can in these challenging times, all the best, Al.
For whatever reason, I'm more a TM Lewin guy, and I'll gladly visit one of their shops as soon as we can take the Eurostar freely again.. But most of my shirts are German brands, mainly Olymp and Eterna, with some Seidenstickers thrown in. The extra sleeve length on a size 45-46 is just what I need... I'm still hoping to be able to get a tweed ensemble next time I'm up in Scotland, I didn't have the means to go entirely wild last time in Inverness, but there was one that I really wish I had bought...
Thx for that vid.
Good start to a shirt guide.
Waiting for part 2
Greatings
13:23 - Shot number 4 and 5 of currency. The video editor at Gentlemen's Gazette must have a folder on his desktop titled "Money Shots."
For good off the rack shirts may I recommend Mason & Sons, the price might be a little high but the quality and fit are amazing. If you wanted to look like sean connery they have the cocktail cuff shirts.
Can somebody help. I love Charles Tyrwhitt button up shirts. But I’m looking for this brands equivalent in a polo with left pocket? I’m heard the CT has polos but some people don’t recommend? What are some other companies like them that are known for decent price point and quality for polo shirts?
Lol I screamed too when I saw the underwear 🩲! Awesome video keep up the good work!
I been watching this channel heavy. And now im start to notice peoples suits and features. Lol
Keep making these great educational videos, I’m learning something everyday! 😁👍
I like to buy my shirts at H&M because it is a good fit and they are not expensive. Also at BizzBee (better fabrics). I am very slim with long arms.
2:14 Sind Buxen anwesend?
Is that a Turnbull and Asser in the lineup at the beginning?
I think OTR are the best for men under 30. Any alteratioms can be made by tailor. I think OTR are the best overall because pf the price and convenience for 99% of men.
nice tips, thanks Raphael
After long time, 😲 Great video 👌👌
The detachable collar at least, goes back to 1827 apparently. Very popular with the middle class since they could not afford to launder their clothes as much.
So people would wear a jacket even if its 41 degrees centigrade and humid??
Well I like H and M easy iron shirts they are affordable and less to maintain or take care of
I don't like H&M
H&M is unsustainable fast fashion.
Yeah I know they are not good in quality but I like the convenience of using them without need to iron everytime your wear as they get very less wrinkles definitely not good for winter season as material is thin but good for summers and their fit is really modern fit so moral of the story is every brand has some pros and cons
I love this channel too.
Well I have always worn off the rack shirts
If the “dress shirt” was underwear, what was the clothes item that Clark Gable ruined the market thereof when he removed it in “It Happened One Night”?
I did not expect to see that xD
Not even going to watch the video before commenting, will edit if I think it is needed. But I have long arms and a size 14 neck. My arm length is about a large, and my neck is small. Off the rack is a nightmare for me. Most of the coats I buy, I tend to get custom made, Just so that they fit me well.
Why: I have yet to invest in a proper suit, Though I do enjoy old fashion tailcoats, so meh. Got a lot of them.
I had no idea that the young man from the antique menswear channel writes for GG!
Paul Fredrick used to have great variety; I don't know what happened.
Omg a neeeeeeeeewwwwwwww video
Those loafers look absolutely ridiculous
Edit: I owe you an explanation.
I think the material looks a bit cheap and the fact that there is a huge logo on it doesn’t seem very gentlemanly to me. I would find them acceptable as an indoor slipper if it didn’t have the logo.
Anyway, love the videos
You old folks need to get over yourselves about seeing logos, it has literally nothing to do with being "gentlemanly" or being in poor taste. Those cord trousers are nasty however.
@@user-iu1ru1qz7u Those pants are definitely nasty though
Raphael: No one wants to see your hairy calf.
Also Raphael at 04:01 :
Look it up in the dictionary under "humor".
I been to saks fifth avenue to see the eton, but I am not impressed at all...
I don't pay any less than £500 for a shirt
Did you just say teer-Witt? Didn’t you do a whole episode on the pronunciation of label names?
Preston did a video on the brand
Lol if course you screen writer is Vintage menswear
Online mtm does not work
Dude. Speak up!
First
No I was first
People must have smelled disgusting back in those days. Bathing one once a week, wearing the same clothes every day, no deodorant, women not shaving or waxing.... Yeecchhh!!!
Are you wealthy?