Thank you for watching! Recharge Kit: amzn.to/3ycMH6V OBD2 Scanner: amzn.to/3PHRplS A great car repair manual: www.gopjn.com/t/SENKTklLS01DSE1NS0lOQ0dKRk9LTw (Use code AD10VA for 15% off one-year subscriptions for any US Order) Have car-related questions? Check out JustAnswer! They have verified auto mechanics that are available as live help 24/7: justanswer.9pctbx.net/qndBon Check out my merch: easyautofix.creator-spring.com/ Buy a new AC pressure switch here: advanceautoparts.rt8x.net/DV4a7q Here are some of my favorite items that you might like: Tools: amzn.to/3xNDb8g Car Vacuum: amzn.to/3EjhPSJ Cleaning Tools: amzn.to/3El7dCG Water Repellency Wiper Blade: amzn.to/3utvK50 Cleaning Gel For Cars: amzn.to/36NIiMr Portable Air Pump for Car Tires: amzn.to/3uBuPzA Headlight Restoration Kit: amzn.to/3qDpOVH Amp Jump Starter: amzn.to/3pMd0vx
Hey boss.....great video.... can a bad AC pressure switch ALSO cause the compressor to keep cycling on and off.....hooked up gauge and refrigerant reading is very high / in the red...system just blows warm air....no cooling at all.... what do you think?
Thank you 1st and foremost. I had all these symptoms except codes. Off and on etc. I tried the paperclip trick and it worked a few times then just stopped working. Do I now need to replace the pig tail or the switch or both?? Plz and thanks again.
I took my 2004 F150 to so called "experts" near me to get fixed. They said my compressor was leaking and replaced it to the tune of just under a grand. When i picked the truck up they were raving about how they were getting 25 degrees at the vents. On the way home the air stopped coming out my vents, then i started to think " 25 degrees? I bet the damned evap coil is freezing solid " I researched the system, and saw that the truck had both a low pressure switch, and a high pressure switch. I replaced both. That solved my problem. The high pressure switch was not disengaging the compressor. This, and a problem I had where i bought new tires is why i still do all my own work at 78 years old. At 153k miles i did a complete timing job, including roller followers and lash adjusters. The only mechanics I would trust are Eric O of SMA, and Ivan of PHAD. We are in a perfect storm of crap Chinese parts, morons that think they are mechanics, and unnecessarily complex module laden vehicles with mouse loving wire insulation that im sure people will eventually have had enough. I own two F150 trucks, one is 30 years old, the "new" one is 20 years old. I will not upgrade, or I should say DOWNGRADE to a newer vehicle.
Older systems use simple on/off sensors that switch between closed and open circuit when refrigerant is out of operating pressure. Newer vehicles may use sensors that signal to the VCM/PCM the exact pressure by variable resistance. I'll talk about the older on/off sensors. The high pressure cut-off switch typically mounted at the compressor is normally closed, so the request for AC from the cabin controls goes thru the high pressure cut-off and to the VCM so the VCM receives the AC request and will activate the clutch relay to engage the compressor. When this sensor detects abnormally high pressures (~380psig) it will open and block the AC request signal to the VCM so the clutch will not energize. The clutch cycling switch typically mounted to the accumulator is closed at operating pressure (24psig-44psig). When the compressor is activated, it pulls refrigerant gas from the suction line and compresses it to a high temperature high pressure gas (~150psig), which passes thru the condenser and condenses to a liquid. The liquid travels to the orifice/txv which has a tiny opening to restrict flow. On the other side - suction side the pressure is between 24psig and 46 psig so refrigerant flashes to a gas and the conversion absorbs heat so the gas is instantly cold ~33F. When the compressor first activates, the pressure on the low side is around 44psig and drops as the compressor pulls gas from the suction side faster than the liquid discharges from the orifice. This causes a steady drop in pressure on the suction side from 44psig to 24psig. When the clutch cycling switch detects 24psig, it opens and signals to the VCM to de-energize the clutch relay and the compressor stops working. The evaporator is still cold so the blower motor blowing air heats the evaporator, increasing the pressure of the suction side. As it rises to 46psig the clutch cycling switch closes, signals to the VCM to re-energize the clutch relay. This process repeats as long as you have the AC on. The 3rd sensor is the recirculation sensor. It's typically just after the condenser and activates when the high side is too high - but not high enough to activate the compressor high pressure cut-off switch. The only thing this sensor does is tell the VCM to activate the recirculation feature (same as the button in your car) in case the button is set to "fresh air intake" which is typically warmer. This is done to ease the load on the compressor by blowing cooler cabin air over the evaporator instead of hotter outside air. This sensor typically should only activate in very hot weather and with low air flow over the condenser so the condenser is unable to reject enough heat. A faulty clutch cycling switch does not open in the desired low pressure of 20-24psig OR doesn't close in the desired high pressure of 42-46psig. A switch that opens too low (~16psi) will cause evaporator freezing. A switch that closes too high (~65psi) will have reduced cooling since the compressor does not engage before the evaporator warms up. The vents will throw cold air, then warm air, then cold air as the compressor cycles. A switch that opens too high (~30psig) OR closes too low (~34psig) OR both will cause short cycling - the compressor will only be engaged briefly before it shuts off. The vents will only blow coolish air out of the vents perhaps 65F instead of the desired 50F.
@@mikeprice8307 your high pressure cut-off switch is at the same fitting as your discharge service port on the line. Your AC works a lot different, there's a TXV at the firewall where the evaporator fittings are. You have a clutch connection engages the clutch, but instead of a low pressure clutch cycling switch, the clutch stays engaged, and an internal valve (on back side of compressor) controls refrigerant flow, and instead of cycling the clutch on and off, the refrigerant flow is bypassed to stop compressing gas until the valve senses high or low pressure and then restores flow of refrigerant so compressor can compress again. So you won't hear the CLICK that we do when the clutch turns on and off.
So if you have no leaks and have refrigerant, but not operating correctly, I'd look at replacing the valve on the back edge of the compressor. Or the thermal expansion valve at the firewall. Need to make sure you have a full charge, not too little not too much.
@@thebluelunarmonkey I have a brand new compressor. I replaced a compressor that was leaking from front seal, but it worked. I installed the new compressor after vacuum and I saw the clutch engage while charging freon. The system made knocking noises doing so because of my bad belts, so I turned off ac. After new belts, while charging freon, I'm getting high pressure and clutch will not engage. They say every car has 2 switches, low & high side.
@@easyautofix2011 Ford Fiesta. Air conditioner has always been cold. I replaced the cabin air filter and since then the air condition blows cold as it use too but now fluctuates. Sometimes at a stop and even sometimes going down the highway at 60 mph. It can be 5-15 mins apart or longer?..
Thanks for the awesome Video AC works perfect on idle and lower speeds But Blows hot air on high speeds 120kmph Changed compressor, got the Condenser and Evaporator checked, got the freon pressures checked. All seems to be good Some AC Tech said that the Compressor Clutch Sensor might be causing the issue. Any suggestions plz?
Changed my cabin air filter from standard (factory) to HEPA 4stage(more retrictive air flow) May be why my compressor is clicking on and off several times a minute... Will update once i swap to factory filter
Very helpful video just to the target. One question please How diagnose blowing hot air with correct amount of refrigerant and compressor engaged. Pressure 56 / 150 on a hot day and cond. fans are working
I have a 2011 F250 that I bought used in 2018. I never had any AC problems and I've never added any refrigerant. Recently it quit cooling. If I put it on max cool it will eventually come on after 10 or so miles of continuous driving. I thought maybe it needed charging so I bought a can of refrigerant and connected it to the low pressure side. I DIDN'T ADD ANY REFRIGERANT, but the gauge read nearly 90. The ambient temperature was about 78 degrees F.
This is a late response, but just for info... my 02 ranger did this and I found the clutch gap was too wide. Removed 1 shim from clutch plate and eliminated the sporadic start and run problem. Figured it out one day looking at the compressor with motor running and just touched the magnetic plate with a screwdriver. A tiny nudge was all it took to draw it in. After it cycled off, repeated the tap maneuver. Reducing the air gap that had gotten larger due to plate wear over 140k was all it needed. Over 210k now, and all is cool.
We're trying to figure out why the AC works up until we accelerate hard. When we accelerate to about 3,500 RPMs, the air switches from blowing cold to blowing warm air, and when we stop accelerating, it still blows the warm air. If we turn the AC off, wait a few seconds, then turn it back on, it will start blowing cold again. Still on the hunt for a video that may help explain this exact issue. We are thinking that it might be a faulty sensor or a leak in the refrigerant line and low refrigerant, but still unsure. Thanks for helping us get one step closer.
I have a 2002 ml that ac sometimes works and sometimes it doesn’t. Especially if i turn on the heat and go back to cold, it won’t work before i try like 35 times going back and forth warm cold. And then it works again 😅
I have a 2012 Jeep grand cherokee limited 5.7 . I went through 5 radiators before I realized that using the ac crack them. I talked to a few mechanics and they keep telling me that that shouldn't happen. I don't know what to do.
C5 corvette a/c problems.... car has a new compressor and last year replaced the pressure switch. Last few months had several instances of a/c not working intermittently. After two days of no cold air, we verify there is accurate pressure in the system and my bet is on the switch is faulty. Let's see what the shop says.
I have requested about my AC. And my 2013 Mercedes-Benz the AC is blowing cool then as it gets warmer through the day, it starts blowing hot air here and my compressor is coming on and it’s not shut off cause it blow cool. and it is full of Freon.!
What could be the problem of my ac when the pressure of the low pressure decrease the air turn cold and when is night but normally the air of the vent are not so cold
I have a question, my condenser fan only works on high temp. My compressor works fine but since the condenser fan does not work on normal temp, it just keeps on rotating. My AC works fine when the car moves. Is the condenser fan related to pressure switch? I checked all the relays and they are all working fine.
What would cause my check engine light to flash every so often and when it starts flashing my AC goes warm and then when it stops flashing, it goes back cold
How do you know what pressure sensor is the bad one? Low or high? I do not have a high end scanner but it did pick up a code (B1079) and most common fixes says "Replaced A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor" but doe snot tell me high or low? Any ideas? It is on a 2013 Lancer
My a.c. compressor comes on only while I'm driving...if I'm parked and idling, compressor will come on if I rev the engine.. Is it the pressure switch or it could be something else ?
I have a 97 Honda CRV AC works colder at night than during the day recharged it but now the pressure too high and you can hear it blowing through a blow off valve is system clock somehow or did I overcharge it any help or what to diagnose and check-out would be helpful thanks
Hi, the AC of my 2011 Jetta sometimes works fine but after 10 minutes starts below hot air, just switch the car off and remove the key for 30 sec. then start the car and the AC works fine for 5 min. and go back to below-hot air again. Any suggestion pls.? Thanks in advance.
I tryed to add freon but my compressor won't turn on and pressure is high on the low side..I stopped changed relay no good still think it's pressure swith?
My ac just quit no Air blowing neither is compressor working, I've been checking fuses and relays but nothing is working, only symptoms was battery light came on a few days earlier but it went off, maybe that was a sign of problems
hi mate. I own a bmw x5 2004. I’ve replaced the condenser , compressor, radiator fan, condenser fan, and expansion valve and still don’t have COLD 🥶 air. The most it gets is “cool”. What am I missing?
2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L I have issues with my A/C, will blow air but not cold air, added refrigerant as i thought that was the issue but it was reading full and no leaks as far as i could see, so I went down the RUclips rabbit hole and found out my A/C clutch wasn't spinning, so I checked the relay, that was fine, found out I could jump the low pressure switch to see if it'll spin and it does but still no cold air and when I went to check the pressure it read as low low.. I'm simply stumped... which reading is the right one? And how do I fix this?? Trying to donit myself.
I have a 2010 equinox. I'm curious if my pressure sensor has failed. I believe I overcharged so I went ahead and got it evac'd and refilled and no air still. Would the sensor allow the compressor to work again if the pressure is normal?
How to check high ac pressure switch sensor by multimeter. I had bought 5 sensor a from advance shop other on EBay Check for resistance are 16 k ohms. Blow it by com pressure air. All not change any resistance (Not closed ) any help thanks
Hi brother thanks for your videos I'm a subscriber. Question please... I have a 1995 Lexus LS 400. The radiator fan is not activating. It does work because i tested it. I disconnected the connector that's connected to the receiver drier and the radiator fan turns on and stays on continuously the whole time. But when I reconnect the connector the radiator fan turns off. I'm trying to fix the fan so that it turns on when I turn on my air conditioner but the fan does not turn on when I turn on the AC. I feel like it has something to do with that connection but I'm not sure. Do you think I might have a bad sensor that's connected to the receiver drier? Thanks. Anybody knowledgeable please reply soon.
Why does NOBODY talks about the bad compressor VALVE that needs to be replaced sometimes since it won’t allow you Air to cool properly even with Gas in it. We need more videos about the VALVE replacement.
Good morning easyautofix, am a mechanic working on this customer ac, mitsubishi outlander 2013, the driver complain the compressor trips off after driving for a while, and sometimes when the car is parked in the sun for hours the compressor will not turn on when car is start, i have checked for leaks no leaks, and compressor is working fine, and i have also check the Ac pressure switch still no leaks, what do you think can be faulty in the ac system that makes the ac malfunction that way, and once the ac picks it cools normal. Pls what can i do?
My ac doesn't turn on at all. No power at all. 14 Ram 1500. Any idea what it could be? I did check the fuse looks good. If it was the blower motor I would assume the ac would still light up as if it's on.
Start at the ac relay by switching it out with a good one. If it's not blowing then go to the blower and either take it out or put 12 volts to it to see if it works if it is go to the blower motor resistor.. If that isn't it since it's a dodge I would start looking at loose or corroded wires.. Those are the steps I would start with since you say you checked the fuses already..
@@stonedblaze313 yeah well whenever i run the ac on max ac and come to a stop it cuts on and off on and of on and off about a second apart from each other and this only happens when i come to a dead stop i have a 5 speed 96 honda civic hx too if that helps
I replaced my ac compressor and it blows out really cold air. The issue is when I drive for a long time the air flow decreases and blows very little regardless if it's the heat or ac. What could it be? Driving in the cities is completely fine, this only happens on long road trips.
My mk7 gti does this. If i drive for a while and the fan is on 6 it will sometimes decrease to 3 instead of just staying on 6. Same with the 4 and 5 setting. Sometimes 3 is the highest setting it will blow. This switch was the solution for another mk7 owner so I'm gonna try it out.
I have a 2002 Tahoe. Does anyone know why it makes a loud hissing sound when I turn ac on and accelerate to start driving?? It almost sounds like a big school bus and my truck feels heavy but only when I turn on the ac. When I don’t turn the ac on everything works perfect.
My ac is blowing but nothing air is coming out!!! It work on windshield and legs but not on face I need help!!! I changed the cabin filters and engine air filters but it did nothing 😢
Cabin air filter is 1st thing you should check If it has never been changed or clean depending on whether you're running a stock disposable one or a K&N or other brand reclinable one, it needs to be replaced or cleaned every 10 to 12000 me ish
I have a 2007 Honda Accord four-cylinder but it’s not a hybrid and I have the same problem I know I have plenty of refrigerant in my system but not even the blower will come on and I’ve checked all relays and fuses.
Same thing hsppwned to me. I have all the symptoms this publisher mentioned, but b4, I emptied out all air with ac regular ac recharge hose, then I connected the can and barely put a little in and it redlined.... bought another can and same thing. So I jumped the switch with a paper clip and it worked the clutch but then it stopped so I'm puzzled. Usually you can jump it and that means you confirmed it's the switch bit now I think I need the pig tail . Might of done something to it idk.
@@scottlanier5133what toyotas? I have a 14 corrolla. 2500 for new compressor and fan but little did they know Im not an idiot. Replaced condensor bc rock chip. Refilled by 2 shops but told me diff things. Blows hot than cold. Maybe moisture when replacing condensor?? Feel like sensor/electrical bugging out. Plza help!!!!!
Hello, I have a 2019 Chrysler Pacifica that barely blows air out of the driver and front passenger A/C vents unless the fan is set to max. On low setting, barely any air comes out.. and when set on max it’s as if the blower had to build up strength and progressively blows air out until it does. The A/C is cold, that’s no problem, but barely any air comes out the vents on the low fan setting. What could this be? Maybe a bad blower??
@@intelin123 Actually, I was able to figure out and fix most of the problem I think. The cabin air filter was super dirty, blocking most of the air passage and the HVAC blend door actuator was bad. I replaced both and the A/C air finally rushes out the vents 100% better. It still takes time for the air mass to build up speed but is definitely 100% better. I’ll look into the fan blower resistor as well. Thanks!
I might classic BMW 2004 it's indicates AUC is my problem supposedly the dealership says I would need a new compressor but I'm not going that route there's nothing wrong with the rotating clutch a clutch still moves once in awhile I would feel cold air plus hot air what would be the problem
@@rashaadswanson how do you remove it off of a 325xi I don't want to drop the subframe I was doing a catalytic converter swap how to remove the line that goes to the compressor not saying that code ever come up but I'm okay I'm not planning on using AC
@@isrealperez9069 I'm not familiar with that car... Generally speaking the compressor valve is easy to take off on most cars because the compressor is easily accessible. I personally wouldn't pay to have another compressor put in before checking that valve. I wouldn't let them sell me a compressor job when all it is just the valve is going out/broke.
For a 2017 Honda civic touring sedan do I need to add refrigerant to it or no ? And how would I knw I need it. Anybody care to answer 🤷♂️🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 come on be nice 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Thank you for watching!
Recharge Kit: amzn.to/3ycMH6V
OBD2 Scanner: amzn.to/3PHRplS
A great car repair manual:
www.gopjn.com/t/SENKTklLS01DSE1NS0lOQ0dKRk9LTw
(Use code AD10VA for 15% off one-year subscriptions for any US Order)
Have car-related questions? Check out JustAnswer! They have verified auto mechanics that are available as live help 24/7: justanswer.9pctbx.net/qndBon
Check out my merch: easyautofix.creator-spring.com/
Buy a new AC pressure switch here: advanceautoparts.rt8x.net/DV4a7q
Here are some of my favorite items that you might like:
Tools: amzn.to/3xNDb8g
Car Vacuum: amzn.to/3EjhPSJ
Cleaning Tools: amzn.to/3El7dCG
Water Repellency Wiper Blade: amzn.to/3utvK50
Cleaning Gel For Cars: amzn.to/36NIiMr
Portable Air Pump for Car Tires: amzn.to/3uBuPzA
Headlight Restoration Kit: amzn.to/3qDpOVH
Amp Jump Starter: amzn.to/3pMd0vx
Hey boss.....great video.... can a bad AC pressure switch ALSO cause the compressor to keep cycling on and off.....hooked up gauge and refrigerant reading is very high / in the red...system just blows warm air....no cooling at all.... what do you think?
does this have to do with low cooling while in idle
Thank you 1st and foremost.
I had all these symptoms except codes. Off and on etc.
I tried the paperclip trick and it worked a few times then just stopped working.
Do I now need to replace the pig tail or the switch or both?? Plz and thanks again.
Thank you very much. My mechanic just told me for $50 what you just told me for free. Keep up the good work!
😂😂😂😂😂 this so funny
Well replacing a his switch was my issue for the past 5 years I didn’t have ac because of this lol. Thanks
im also going on 5 years and i swear if i made myself suffer this long for a $85 fix i'll be mad at myself
I took my 2004 F150 to so called "experts" near me to get fixed. They said my compressor was leaking and replaced it to the tune of just under a grand. When i picked the truck up they were raving about how they were getting 25 degrees at the vents. On the way home the air stopped coming out my vents, then i started to think " 25 degrees? I bet the damned evap coil is freezing solid " I researched the system, and saw that the truck had both a low pressure switch, and a high pressure switch. I replaced both. That solved my problem. The high pressure switch was not disengaging the compressor. This, and a problem I had where i bought new tires is why i still do all my own work at 78 years old. At 153k miles i did a complete timing job, including roller followers and lash adjusters. The only mechanics I would trust are Eric O of SMA, and Ivan of PHAD. We are in a perfect storm of crap Chinese parts, morons that think they are mechanics, and unnecessarily complex module laden vehicles with mouse loving wire insulation that im sure people will eventually have had enough. I own two F150 trucks, one is 30 years old, the "new" one is 20 years old. I will not upgrade, or I should say DOWNGRADE to a newer vehicle.
Older systems use simple on/off sensors that switch between closed and open circuit when refrigerant is out of operating pressure. Newer vehicles may use sensors that signal to the VCM/PCM the exact pressure by variable resistance. I'll talk about the older on/off sensors. The high pressure cut-off switch typically mounted at the compressor is normally closed, so the request for AC from the cabin controls goes thru the high pressure cut-off and to the VCM so the VCM receives the AC request and will activate the clutch relay to engage the compressor. When this sensor detects abnormally high pressures (~380psig) it will open and block the AC request signal to the VCM so the clutch will not energize.
The clutch cycling switch typically mounted to the accumulator is closed at operating pressure (24psig-44psig). When the compressor is activated, it pulls refrigerant gas from the suction line and compresses it to a high temperature high pressure gas (~150psig), which passes thru the condenser and condenses to a liquid. The liquid travels to the orifice/txv which has a tiny opening to restrict flow. On the other side - suction side the pressure is between 24psig and 46 psig so refrigerant flashes to a gas and the conversion absorbs heat so the gas is instantly cold ~33F.
When the compressor first activates, the pressure on the low side is around 44psig and drops as the compressor pulls gas from the suction side faster than the liquid discharges from the orifice. This causes a steady drop in pressure on the suction side from 44psig to 24psig. When the clutch cycling switch detects 24psig, it opens and signals to the VCM to de-energize the clutch relay and the compressor stops working. The evaporator is still cold so the blower motor blowing air heats the evaporator, increasing the pressure of the suction side. As it rises to 46psig the clutch cycling switch closes, signals to the VCM to re-energize the clutch relay.
This process repeats as long as you have the AC on.
The 3rd sensor is the recirculation sensor. It's typically just after the condenser and activates when the high side is too high - but not high enough to activate the compressor high pressure cut-off switch. The only thing this sensor does is tell the VCM to activate the recirculation feature (same as the button in your car) in case the button is set to "fresh air intake" which is typically warmer. This is done to ease the load on the compressor by blowing cooler cabin air over the evaporator instead of hotter outside air. This sensor typically should only activate in very hot weather and with low air flow over the condenser so the condenser is unable to reject enough heat.
A faulty clutch cycling switch does not open in the desired low pressure of 20-24psig OR doesn't close in the desired high pressure of 42-46psig.
A switch that opens too low (~16psi) will cause evaporator freezing.
A switch that closes too high (~65psi) will have reduced cooling since the compressor does not engage before the evaporator warms up. The vents will throw cold air, then warm air, then cold air as the compressor cycles.
A switch that opens too high (~30psig) OR closes too low (~34psig) OR both will cause short cycling - the compressor will only be engaged briefly before it shuts off. The vents will only blow coolish air out of the vents perhaps 65F instead of the desired 50F.
Can you tell me anything about 05 pontiac gto? Does it only have 1 switch?
@@mikeprice8307 your high pressure cut-off switch is at the same fitting as your discharge service port on the line. Your AC works a lot different, there's a TXV at the firewall where the evaporator fittings are. You have a clutch connection engages the clutch, but instead of a low pressure clutch cycling switch, the clutch stays engaged, and an internal valve (on back side of compressor) controls refrigerant flow, and instead of cycling the clutch on and off, the refrigerant flow is bypassed to stop compressing gas until the valve senses high or low pressure and then restores flow of refrigerant so compressor can compress again. So you won't hear the CLICK that we do when the clutch turns on and off.
So if you have no leaks and have refrigerant, but not operating correctly, I'd look at replacing the valve on the back edge of the compressor. Or the thermal expansion valve at the firewall. Need to make sure you have a full charge, not too little not too much.
Looks like by design, even if you've leaked out all refrigerant, the clutch will still engage and spin the compressor.
@@thebluelunarmonkey I have a brand new compressor. I replaced a compressor that was leaking from front seal, but it worked.
I installed the new compressor after vacuum and I saw the clutch engage while charging freon. The system made knocking noises doing so because of my bad belts, so I turned off ac.
After new belts, while charging freon, I'm getting high pressure and clutch will not engage.
They say every car has 2 switches, low & high side.
dang this guys so awesome such a good video just watched like 3 videos back to back
Very down to the point video. Professional!!!
Very nice, thank you!
@@easyautofixever seen a car like 05 pontiac gto have only 1 pressure switch bear the high side?
@@easyautofix2011 Ford Fiesta. Air conditioner has always been cold. I replaced the cabin air filter and since then the air condition blows cold as it use too but now fluctuates. Sometimes at a stop and even sometimes going down the highway at 60 mph. It can be 5-15 mins apart or longer?..
is this Chris fix?
😂😂
I think so
Chris fix on Sunday with hangover.
Hey guys!
He’s lost brother
Its also quite possible that yhe pressure switch is doing what it's supposed to do not allowing the system to work because there's low pressure.
Thanks for the awesome Video
AC works perfect on idle and lower speeds
But Blows hot air on high speeds 120kmph
Changed compressor, got the Condenser and Evaporator checked, got the freon pressures checked. All seems to be good
Some AC Tech said that the Compressor Clutch Sensor might be causing the issue.
Any suggestions plz?
YOU MAKE THE BEST VIDEOS BRO YOU'VE HELPED ME SO MUCH THANK YOU
I appreciate you!
Changed my cabin air filter from standard (factory) to HEPA 4stage(more retrictive air flow) May be why my compressor is clicking on and off several times a minute... Will update once i swap to factory filter
Very helpful video just to the target.
One question please
How diagnose blowing hot air with correct amount of refrigerant and compressor engaged.
Pressure 56 / 150 on a hot day and cond. fans are working
I have a 2011 F250 that I bought used in 2018. I never had any AC problems and I've never added any refrigerant. Recently it quit cooling. If I put it on max cool it will eventually come on after 10 or so miles of continuous driving. I thought maybe it needed charging so I bought a can of refrigerant and connected it to the low pressure side. I DIDN'T ADD ANY REFRIGERANT, but the gauge read nearly 90. The ambient temperature was about 78 degrees F.
This is a late response, but just for info... my 02 ranger did this and I found the clutch gap was too wide. Removed 1 shim from clutch plate and eliminated the sporadic start and run problem. Figured it out one day looking at the compressor with motor running and just touched the magnetic plate with a screwdriver. A tiny nudge was all it took to draw it in. After it cycled off, repeated the tap maneuver. Reducing the air gap that had gotten larger due to plate wear over 140k was all it needed. Over 210k now, and all is cool.
Thanks bro! That's what it was ❤️
We're trying to figure out why the AC works up until we accelerate hard. When we accelerate to about 3,500 RPMs, the air switches from blowing cold to blowing warm air, and when we stop accelerating, it still blows the warm air. If we turn the AC off, wait a few seconds, then turn it back on, it will start blowing cold again. Still on the hunt for a video that may help explain this exact issue. We are thinking that it might be a faulty sensor or a leak in the refrigerant line and low refrigerant, but still unsure. Thanks for helping us get one step closer.
It can be low freon in your ac system.
@@mocnyjakniedzwiedz That's what it turned out to be. A seal was worn which caused a small leak.
My AC is blowing out hot heat. Where are you located? I need help getting my AC back working.
Bring it to a shop…
I have a 2002 ml that ac sometimes works and sometimes it doesn’t. Especially if i turn on the heat and go back to cold, it won’t work before i try like 35 times going back and forth warm cold. And then it works again 😅
Hi can you do some videos on OBD2 drive cycles and how to diagnose why the monitors won't set ready
thanks so much. I think this is the problem with my 2018 mustang.
I have a JKUR 2008, that the A C is always on. I know the AC clutch is not stuck be cause I have seen the compressor turn and the clutch not turn.
What is the number for the air conditioning switch on a 2011 chevy equinox
I have a 2012 Jeep grand cherokee limited 5.7 . I went through 5 radiators before I realized that using the ac crack them. I talked to a few mechanics and they keep telling me that that shouldn't happen. I don't know what to do.
Thanks so much it's very helpfully
Which switch , control's A/C fans , HIGH OR LOW ?
Either the compressor circuit to a relay or the high pressure switch to relay
C5 corvette a/c problems.... car has a new compressor and last year replaced the pressure switch. Last few months had several instances of a/c not working intermittently. After two days of no cold air, we verify there is accurate pressure in the system and my bet is on the switch is faulty. Let's see what the shop says.
So what did they say
@@Baddonation22 the connector to the compressor fried itself. No explanation as to why.
@@HardwiredZ06 thanks for replying
@@HardwiredZ06does your vette have both low side and high side pressure switches?
I have requested about my AC. And my 2013 Mercedes-Benz the AC is blowing cool then as it gets warmer through the day, it starts blowing hot air here and my compressor is coming on and it’s not shut off cause it blow cool. and it is full of Freon.!
That was very informative video . thanks very much
What could be the problem of my ac when the pressure of the low pressure decrease the air turn cold and when is night but normally the air of the vent are not so cold
Had this issue happen to my truck. Today is the first day after I replaced the switch. Should I have anymore issues with this? Intermittently? Thanks
I have a question, my condenser fan only works on high temp. My compressor works fine but since the condenser fan does not work on normal temp, it just keeps on rotating. My AC works fine when the car moves. Is the condenser fan related to pressure switch? I checked all the relays and they are all working fine.
What would cause my check engine light to flash every so often and when it starts flashing my AC goes warm and then when it stops flashing, it goes back cold
Can the switch be reset? if the switch is triggered off, does it require replacement or does it reset itself?
Should reset itself
I heard that a faulty pressure switch will keep your engine fan on even when the car is turned off? Is this true?
Sounds like the same symptoms as an orifice tube without the engine light basically throw money at it till it works ?
How do you know what pressure sensor is the bad one? Low or high? I do not have a high end scanner but it did pick up a code (B1079) and most common fixes says "Replaced A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor" but doe snot tell me high or low? Any ideas? It is on a 2013 Lancer
Can this also make both cooling fans not working at all?
My problem is my air conditioner won’t turn off. It still blows cold air even when the switch is turned off any ideas?
My a.c. compressor comes on only while I'm driving...if I'm parked and idling, compressor will come on if I rev the engine..
Is it the pressure switch or it could be something else ?
I hope this fix my problem....
I have a 97 Honda CRV AC works colder at night than during the day recharged it but now the pressure too high and you can hear it blowing through a blow off valve is system clock somehow or did I overcharge it any help or what to diagnose and check-out would be helpful thanks
Hi, the AC of my 2011 Jetta sometimes works fine but after 10 minutes starts below hot air, just switch the car off and remove the key for 30 sec. then start the car and the AC works fine for 5 min. and go back to below-hot air again. Any suggestion pls.? Thanks in advance.
I tryed to add freon but my compressor won't turn on and pressure is high on the low side..I stopped changed relay no good still think it's pressure swith?
Yes
My ac just quit no Air blowing neither is compressor working, I've been checking fuses and relays but nothing is working, only symptoms was battery light came on a few days earlier but it went off, maybe that was a sign of
problems
I’m having issues with my car overheating unless I run the AC then it is fine
So what what would cause the switch to go bad?
Something internal my friend
Well all and good. But Does the high or does the low control compressor. You never specified.
My truck has two, if either one is disconnected the pump turns off. Most all OBD2 vehicles are that way.
When I connected the recharge kit to my low pressure valve the pressure read 95 PSI... it's supposed to be around 30. What could be the cause of this?
it will read high if your compressor is not running while your attempting to fill it
make sure the compressor clutch is working
hi mate.
I own a bmw x5 2004.
I’ve replaced the condenser , compressor, radiator fan, condenser fan, and expansion valve and still don’t have COLD 🥶 air. The most it gets is “cool”.
What am I missing?
2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L
I have issues with my A/C, will blow air but not cold air, added refrigerant as i thought that was the issue but it was reading full and no leaks as far as i could see, so I went down the RUclips rabbit hole and found out my A/C clutch wasn't spinning, so I checked the relay, that was fine, found out I could jump the low pressure switch to see if it'll spin and it does but still no cold air and when I went to check the pressure it read as low low.. I'm simply stumped... which reading is the right one? And how do I fix this?? Trying to donit myself.
The refrigerant kept leaking out of point where my high pressure switch is located. It happened again even after installing a new one. What to do?
Thanks
Jeep Tj 4.0 I checked pressure switch with a volt meter and its bad, will replacing it cause any damage to the A/C system?
I have a 2010 equinox. I'm curious if my pressure sensor has failed. I believe I overcharged so I went ahead and got it evac'd and refilled and no air still. Would the sensor allow the compressor to work again if the pressure is normal?
What if not air at all is coming through and after like 5 minutes it kicks on and works and blows cold air even?
I second that question
I third that question
I took my Volvo too the shop too check mines and my car is sluggish and rpm aren’t going up I believe they messed my car up
Hey what if a ac compressor doesn’t turn on n off like supposed to because im kinda havin a issue with getting to cold in truck
Could it also be blowing my AC fuse ??
How to check high ac pressure switch sensor by multimeter. I had bought 5 sensor a from advance shop other on EBay Check for resistance are 16 k ohms. Blow it by com pressure air. All not change any resistance (Not closed ) any help thanks
Thanks sir
Hi brother thanks for your videos I'm a subscriber.
Question please...
I have a 1995 Lexus LS 400.
The radiator fan is not activating.
It does work because i tested it.
I disconnected the connector that's connected to the receiver drier and the radiator fan turns on and stays on continuously the whole time.
But when I reconnect the connector the radiator fan turns off.
I'm trying to fix the fan so that it turns on when I turn on my air conditioner but the fan does not turn on when I turn on the AC.
I feel like it has something to do with that connection but I'm not sure.
Do you think I might have a bad sensor that's connected to the receiver drier?
Thanks.
Anybody knowledgeable please reply soon.
I don’t think my problem would be a AC switch but my AC light does not come on not allowing my AC to get cold please help
I just installed a new compressor, and it has blown hot air again
I had recharged it and vacuumed it as well any idea what i can do?
Check the wire. .
Check if there is a power..
Check fuses and relay.
Toyota camry 2011 model air conditioner off when I shift gate?
Why does NOBODY talks about the bad compressor VALVE that needs to be replaced sometimes since it won’t allow you Air to cool properly even with Gas in it.
We need more videos about the VALVE replacement.
Thank you. How to fix if the ac compressor clutch always run never stop?
Don’t you just love it when they never answer your questions?🙄
Could this cause the fan to not blow ether?
Good morning easyautofix, am a mechanic working on this customer ac, mitsubishi outlander 2013, the driver complain the compressor trips off after driving for a while, and sometimes when the car is parked in the sun for hours the compressor will not turn on when car is start, i have checked for leaks no leaks, and compressor is working fine, and i have also check the Ac pressure switch still no leaks, what do you think can be faulty in the ac system that makes the ac malfunction that way, and once the ac picks it cools normal. Pls what can i do?
Check the fuses sounds electical
Can this switch be also responsible for a fan running nonstop when every other reason has been eliminated?
Thats what I have heard. I have tried everything. I am going to change the pressure switch.
@@MrFahadaziz1980have you changed the switch?
Did you try to replace AC clutch relay?
My 2006 Ford Explore compressor turns on with the control in the off position, I replaced the control module but it’s doing the same thing. Any advice
I have a 2011 Acadia doing the same thing, you find out why your explorer ac compressor turning on by itself?
What about a compressor that never turns off?
My relay works my compressor works switch works and it has cold free on i dont know why my car ac stop working just hot air
What if the ac clutch stays on
That's what is happening to my Honda Odyssey 2005
My ac doesn't turn on at all. No power at all. 14 Ram 1500. Any idea what it could be?
I did check the fuse looks good. If it was the blower motor I would assume the ac would still light up as if it's on.
Start at the ac relay by switching it out with a good one. If it's not blowing then go to the blower and either take it out or put 12 volts to it to see if it works if it is go to the blower motor resistor.. If that isn't it since it's a dodge I would start looking at loose or corroded wires.. Those are the steps I would start with since you say you checked the fuses already..
Hi, I have the same issue in my dodge caravan, did you fix the problem on your Ram ?
@@alfredocardenas506 Could be a resistor on blower motor
Hey i have a quick question my ac will turn off and on off and on off and on when im just idling sitting still is this due to a bad switch
No, the a/c cycles on and off when you use heat to avoid damage to the compressor. It should cycle on and off about 10 seconds at a time.
@@stonedblaze313 yeah well whenever i run the ac on max ac and come to a stop it cuts on and off on and of on and off about a second apart from each other and this only happens when i come to a dead stop i have a 5 speed 96 honda civic hx too if that helps
I'd suggest to check the refrigerant levels. If they're good I'd look towards a vacuum or wiring issue.
@@stonedblaze313 ok thank you for the help ill let you know if it works
Did you find the solution
That's fine but blowing hot and the clutch is spinning then what ?
Omg my Honda civic blows hot and then sometimes blows cold and it’s summer time hopefully this is it 😭
it could just be its low if its low it will sometimes blow warm and cold
Recharge your ac system. Ad some freon.
Hey mine is doing same thing what was it?
I replaced my ac compressor and it blows out really cold air. The issue is when I drive for a long time the air flow decreases and blows very little regardless if it's the heat or ac. What could it be? Driving in the cities is completely fine, this only happens on long road trips.
I've got the opposite problem. Mine gets colder when running ling uninterrupted distances, but in town it blows cool, non conditioned muggy air
My mk7 gti does this. If i drive for a while and the fan is on 6 it will sometimes decrease to 3 instead of just staying on 6. Same with the 4 and 5 setting. Sometimes 3 is the highest setting it will blow. This switch was the solution for another mk7 owner so I'm gonna try it out.
This might be the problem of my ford pick -up. Sensor switch not working.. does it need replacement or can it be repaired? Thanks
Replacement
@@easyautofix thank you for your prompt reply & guidance.
Do you have to empty freon out first ?
My account doesn't work when I turn it on high HELP ME!!!
I have a 2002 Tahoe. Does anyone know why it makes a loud hissing sound when I turn ac on and accelerate to start driving?? It almost sounds like a big school bus and my truck feels heavy but only when I turn on the ac. When I don’t turn the ac on everything works perfect.
My ac is blowing but nothing air is coming out!!! It work on windshield and legs but not on face I need help!!! I changed the cabin filters and engine air filters but it did nothing 😢
Cabin air filter is 1st thing you should check
If it has never been changed or clean depending on whether you're running a stock disposable one or a K&N or other brand reclinable one, it needs to be replaced or cleaned every 10 to 12000 me ish
It can be A switch.
Check fuses for blower.
What about in a hybrid system? Will it affect fan not coming on? I have b1423
I have a 2007 Honda Accord four-cylinder but it’s not a hybrid and I have the same problem I know I have plenty of refrigerant in my system but not even the blower will come on and I’ve checked all relays and fuses.
Not all compressors have a clutch
Amen 🙏
Thank you
Do you measure pressure when compressors off and goes up?
On
would bad pressure switch make it so that you could barely add any refrigerant without overcharging?
Did you find an answer to this?
Same thing hsppwned to me. I have all the symptoms this publisher mentioned, but b4, I emptied out all air with ac regular ac recharge hose, then I connected the can and barely put a little in and it redlined.... bought another can and same thing. So I jumped the switch with a paper clip and it worked the clutch but then it stopped so I'm puzzled. Usually you can jump it and that means you confirmed it's the switch bit now I think I need the pig tail . Might of done something to it idk.
hi, i have lexus es350 2008 and my ac compresoor is continously switched on even if the blower fan is on 1. please if you can explain. thanks
Maybe a stuck relay...not sure tho
So I changed my pressure switch and my ac compressor engages but I still get hot air. Could the temperature control unit be bad?
Sounds like there may be a possible fault elsewhere in the system
If toyota they may have flow sensor and common problem electric control valve that goes bad
@@scottlanier5133what toyotas? I have a 14 corrolla. 2500 for new compressor and fan but little did they know Im not an idiot. Replaced condensor bc rock chip. Refilled by 2 shops but told me diff things. Blows hot than cold. Maybe moisture when replacing condensor?? Feel like sensor/electrical bugging out. Plza help!!!!!
@@itsanthonyb663 newer siennas...usually those with v6
Hello, I have a 2019 Chrysler Pacifica that barely blows air out of the driver and front passenger A/C vents unless the fan is set to max. On low setting, barely any air comes out.. and when set on max it’s as if the blower had to build up strength and progressively blows air out until it does. The A/C is cold, that’s no problem, but barely any air comes out the vents on the low fan setting. What could this be? Maybe a bad blower??
Fan blower resistor
@@intelin123 Actually, I was able to figure out and fix most of the problem I think. The cabin air filter was super dirty, blocking most of the air passage and the HVAC blend door actuator was bad. I replaced both and the A/C air finally rushes out the vents 100% better. It still takes time for the air mass to build up speed but is definitely 100% better. I’ll look into the fan blower resistor as well. Thanks!
I might classic BMW 2004 it's indicates AUC is my problem supposedly the dealership says I would need a new compressor but I'm not going that route there's nothing wrong with the rotating clutch a clutch still moves once in awhile I would feel cold air plus hot air what would be the problem
It may be the compressor valve on the compressor itself. Easy job taking it off but you have to empty the system, vac it down and recharge it.
@@rashaadswanson how do you remove it off of a 325xi I don't want to drop the subframe I was doing a catalytic converter swap how to remove the line that goes to the compressor not saying that code ever come up but I'm okay I'm not planning on using AC
@@isrealperez9069 I'm not familiar with that car... Generally speaking the compressor valve is easy to take off on most cars because the compressor is easily accessible. I personally wouldn't pay to have another compressor put in before checking that valve. I wouldn't let them sell me a compressor job when all it is just the valve is going out/broke.
My Chevy Cruze AC turns off from time to time, but I just changed my switch, and it’s still happening.
Do you have a clue?
I changed it and still not working
Auhh my ac takes FOREVERRRRR to get cold😢😢
I tested my switch ohms and it's at 54k ohms
Why is my car kinda hissing when it's off and it hasn't stopped??
It just needs some more ac gas (refregerant)
For a 2017 Honda civic touring sedan do I need to add refrigerant to it or no ? And how would I knw I need it. Anybody care to answer 🤷♂️🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 come on be nice 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
bro my ac is not working no i am not having a phenomenal day
Ah ok
Ez auto