Yeah gotta let that R.T.V. set... I let mine cure for 2 years lmao...car is running now though and I gotta say this channel for sure pushed me to get the swap running.
When using a straight edge your not supposed to push down on it it will give you the wrong reading it needs to have gravity only you can support the sides so it stands up but no downward force when checking with the feelers
The waterpump and diverter plug issue is common with mix and match k20 pump on k24 block. Your homies are all on point. Def remove the diverter. Some people just swap the headgaskets to the K24A1 gasket. And call it a day. But for us california people, our summers are stupid hot, def remove the plug.
Hey static don't know if you read your comments or not but the junkyard videos are the flex man I'd say if you did a few more every now and again you'd get more subs and all just my opinion , I love the content can't wait to see you get an ef sedan
Im running 08 k24a2 with a k20a2 crank pulley and k20a2 (gates) water pump with the matching water pump housing and the oil cooler. The head has never been removed from my engine. Granted ive only put a few hundred miles of drive time on my car, plus lots of idling, but ive never had an overheat issue. I could see an issue with running a k24 crank pulley on a k20a2 water pump, as the larger diameter k24 pulley will cause the water pump to spin too fast to the point of cavitation. Running a crank pulley that matches the water pump will ensure the water flows at the proper speed through the motor. Also I like to avoid half size radiators. I know options are limited with crx. But on my k24 swapped integra I run normal stock rsx radiator and both fans which do excellent keeping the temperature in check.
It's probably overheating because of that ktuned style swivel thermostat that you're running. I've built and rebuilt plenty of k24a2/a4/a8; some with k20a2 water pump housing and others with the stock k24 pumps and they've all ran fine with the diverter valve and k24a2 head gaskets.
I’ve had that on since the rebuild. Ran hundreds of miles fine, been on a full dyno session fine. Ran at the track fine. But I am switching it over to oe. I have k20 water pump house, k20 water pump and k20 pulley with a shorter t7 belt.
@YoungStatic My uncle and I chased almost the same exact issue that you're having for a good month or two on his ef k24 turbo. When we first finished the swap. Car would run kinda warm but nothing too extreme, drove fine for a whole year. Then out of no where Car would get hot while sitting in traffic but cool down when driving. Then it got progressively hot and wouldnt cool down even while driving. Re-bled the coolant, nothing. New bigger radiator, nothing. We even swapped in a different motor and it was still doing the same thing. Finally after all that, swapped out the ktuned thermostat for an oem one and what do you know? Fixed it right up. Lol
@@MoneyBuiltCyT Was it an actual Ktuned thermostat housing or a cheaper knock-off? Real Ktuned seems to have the proper thermostat that blocks off the recirculation port wheras the cheap ones do not. I have had issues with overcooling on my ktuned thermo housing. But I wonder if its just because the included thermostat was rated too low of a temperature.
If that Bone Thugs beanie could talk.
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🤣🤣🤣🤣
😅😅😅😅
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Love the asmr style tear downs you do. So relaxing to listen to after a long work day
Yeah gotta let that R.T.V. set... I let mine cure for 2 years lmao...car is running now though and I gotta say this channel for sure pushed me to get the swap running.
When using a straight edge your not supposed to push down on it it will give you the wrong reading it needs to have gravity only you can support the sides so it stands up but no downward force when checking with the feelers
Nice flow. Editing is perfect. Good progress
Great video man and love the detail on what and why it needs to be changed
Your time spent is of benefit to us, because we know to apply those lessons on our projects.
👍✌🍺
The waterpump and diverter plug issue is common with mix and match k20 pump on k24 block. Your homies are all on point. Def remove the diverter. Some people just swap the headgaskets to the K24A1 gasket. And call it a day. But for us california people, our summers are stupid hot, def remove the plug.
Hell yea another great video keep them coming and we will be here to watch them
Hey static don't know if you read your comments or not but the junkyard videos are the flex man I'd say if you did a few more every now and again you'd get more subs and all just my opinion , I love the content can't wait to see you get an ef sedan
fyi, use of the divertor plate depends on the head you use. k24/k20z3 style heads use a divertor, k20A and k24a1 style heads do not use it.
Great video keep grinding before your next adventure 💪 like the shirt
It's been hella chilli at night in East San Jose this past week
Remember to wash those TIckTock Tactical whackers. 😂
to be continue........ great video. cant wait to see part 2
Im running 08 k24a2 with a k20a2 crank pulley and k20a2 (gates) water pump with the matching water pump housing and the oil cooler. The head has never been removed from my engine. Granted ive only put a few hundred miles of drive time on my car, plus lots of idling, but ive never had an overheat issue. I could see an issue with running a k24 crank pulley on a k20a2 water pump, as the larger diameter k24 pulley will cause the water pump to spin too fast to the point of cavitation. Running a crank pulley that matches the water pump will ensure the water flows at the proper speed through the motor. Also I like to avoid half size radiators. I know options are limited with crx. But on my k24 swapped integra I run normal stock rsx radiator and both fans which do excellent keeping the temperature in check.
Kinda sad I didn’t get to see the krx in person at the cruise, hopefully next year
The video cuality is better.saludos desde Mexicali México
Good stuff man⚡️⚡️⚡️⚡️
Hi could you help me with a problem in am having with my Honda Civic
It's probably overheating because of that ktuned style swivel thermostat that you're running. I've built and rebuilt plenty of k24a2/a4/a8; some with k20a2 water pump housing and others with the stock k24 pumps and they've all ran fine with the diverter valve and k24a2 head gaskets.
I’ve had that on since the rebuild. Ran hundreds of miles fine, been on a full dyno session fine. Ran at the track fine. But I am switching it over to oe. I have k20 water pump house, k20 water pump and k20 pulley with a shorter t7 belt.
@YoungStatic My uncle and I chased almost the same exact issue that you're having for a good month or two on his ef k24 turbo. When we first finished the swap. Car would run kinda warm but nothing too extreme, drove fine for a whole year. Then out of no where Car would get hot while sitting in traffic but cool down when driving. Then it got progressively hot and wouldnt cool down even while driving. Re-bled the coolant, nothing. New bigger radiator, nothing. We even swapped in a different motor and it was still doing the same thing. Finally after all that, swapped out the ktuned thermostat for an oem one and what do you know? Fixed it right up. Lol
@@MoneyBuiltCyT OEM all the way
@@MoneyBuiltCyT Was it an actual Ktuned thermostat housing or a cheaper knock-off? Real Ktuned seems to have the proper thermostat that blocks off the recirculation port wheras the cheap ones do not. I have had issues with overcooling on my ktuned thermo housing. But I wonder if its just because the included thermostat was rated too low of a temperature.
@@AcuraLvR82 it was a genuine v1 ktuned thermostat. Not sure if the new v2 is any good, but Oem is all i go with on all my builds now.
what engine mounts are those?
Let's goo!!!
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Great job dana nice to see the progres. 💪🏻🇳🇱
Curious on which one my homies sold this man a hood from Moreno Valley.
Blessings
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Yo I’m in Moreno Valley stop by if you need anything food water or just stop by and say wassup 🤙🏽
Fk yea.👍
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d16a6 bro.. screw the K