Review: Anycubic "ABS-Like" pro 2 3D printing UV cured resin
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- Опубликовано: 16 фев 2024
- Amazon Affiliate Link: amzn.to/48nw1Z9
Price as reviewed: $19 (for 500g, $29 for 1kg)
ANYCUBIC 3D Printer Resin, ABS-Like Resin Pro 2 with Enhanced Strength and Toughness, Performance far Superior to ABS-Like Resin, Low Odor, Wide Compatible for All Resin 3D Printers (Grey, 500g)
I tried this resin out on a different brand of 3D printer, so I had to tune in the settings myself. It took me several tries to get it to stop sticking to my FEP film (I had to turn up the exposure time, and also replace my FEP film, as well as stop using "thin" supports). This resin wants to stick to the FEP film more than what I was using previously, and appears to be a little more flexible when printing so that you need to use slightly larger supports to keep fine parts from starting to stick to the FEP film when the built plate lifts.
Eventually I got the settings and support structures dialed in so that I could print parts reliably, but it took more more attempts than I was expecting to need, as it needed almost twice the exposure time as my previous resin.
The parts printed with the "ABS-Like" resin are definitely stronger than what my previous resin (an "Aqua") gave. It took significantly more force to break off small structures, and parts would "give" more before breaking, although you could still snap small pieces by hand if you bent them enough.
The gray color definitely made the IPA I use for rinsing dark and murky at a faster rate than a clear or white would have done, so consider your color choice when buying resin if you care about what your IPA looks like more than the color of the final part. It also appears to be more "sticky" in that I needed to rinse for longer to get it off of the build plate and vat.
Price wise, it is slightly less expensive than other resins I've used if purchased in the 1kg size, and I was happy with the performance of the parts once I got the settings dialed in.
From an odor standpoint, it was MUCH less objectionable than other "low odor" resins I've used, so that is not just marking speak, my IPA gave off more odor than the resin in use. (I'd still recommend ventilation though, but it is better than other low-odor resins I've tested.)
So overall, I recommend this resin for prints that need strength, with the notice that unless you also have an anycubic branded printer, you may need to spend 250g of it to dial in the settings for your specific printer.
On my Phrozen Sonic Mini, I ended up with 4 second exposures & 100mm/min lift speed, combined with thicker support structures and that worked out well for me. 
Хобби
i can tell that when you learn the reasons for all these issues your videos will be god tier. keep up the printing videos!
Thanks for the review!
For the future, the problem with small supports is not just exposure, but also raise speed. Basically, as the part is being raised it's naturally stuck on the FEP and will try to pell off of it. If you set the raise speed too high, it'll pull away with a lot of force and rip the part off from those tiny supports. However, if you slow it down and let it peel off more gently, the smaller supports will have a much better chance of holding onto the parts. Of course you sacrifice print speed for reliability with that, so you gotta find a happy medium.
For testing supports I really recommend The Cones of Calibration - it's the perfect test piece for that. No other calibration file have ever worked as well for me for calibrating specifically for supports. You can get all your dimensional accuracy and small details fidelity, but if your model is spread out on the FEP after 4 hours, it's not gonna do you any good. I always prefer calibrating for supports. I print for tabletop miniatures, so small supports might be more important to me than to you - at any case it's a good tool to have.
I also recommend simply using more of small supports for round or flat pieces like that, as opposed to larger ones. It will hold the piece better while still having a nicer detachment (no pits as it breaks) and an easier separation after printing at the cost of a TIIINY tiny bit more resin. Probably barely noticeable over less but thicker supports.
Also keep in mind that resin viscosity plays a role in making small supports work. If you have a temperature controlled room to print in, that won't be a problem - calibrate once and you're done. However, if the temperature changes (say, you have a 10 hour print going from mid afternoon to the middle of the night) then as the temperature cools your resin will become more viscous, and your supports will grow stronger. Conversely, as it warms up your supports will grow weaker. So calibrate when the temperature is a little higher so the worst you can be surprised with is a print that's a little harder to remove from the supports. Not sure how this ABS-Like Pro 2 reacts to heat (Anycubic claims it's much less viscous to begin with so maybe it doesn't change much) but it's good to know that even this can play a role. Especially when you're not printing ABS-Like - the brittle "standard" resins have a more catastrophic reaction to changing temperatures when calibrated for perfection, as opposed to stability. Of course with enough heat or cold no amount of calibration will help lol
That's all I got, hope some of this was useful to somebody! Don't be afraid to shop around for the best resins - it's a lot to take in, but once you get the concepts down it'll be easy enough to calibrate for a new one. The hardest part is being patient enough to wait for the test pieces to finish, lol
i also found lift hight to be a major issue for some prints, the base layer will print but as soon as it tries to print suppports not enough resin may flow into the center layer unless the resin is very warm but that messes with exposure times since warm resin needs less exposure and may over expose it but this does have the benifit of stronger supports. i printed a file on a 4k anycubic printer at high speed and because it slightly over exposed it had no support failures while the same file on my 8k phrozen on the same layer hight with much slower speeds had a tone of support failures but more accurate details do to the lack of over exposure. i got my perfect exposure settings through the cones of calibration.
I use this for most of my prints, boughr about 15kg in various colors. The benefit of the toughness is that you can get away with much thinner walls and infill for prints so you save resin. If ypu print around 30c it flows very easily nd can handle fast print speeds, especially when combined with the appropriate vat sheet.
what printing settings do you run with? I have a M5s and keep getting fail prints due to the settings
On my Phrozen Sonic Mini I'm doing: 4 sec exposure time per layer, (40 seconds on the bottom layers), 0.5s light off delay, 6mm lift distance, 80mm/min lifting speed. Plus I'm using the "medium" sized supports to keep things from flexing and sticking to the film.
Thanks. That's useful information. I've had several partial and couple complete print failures with this new resin. The viscosity IS a problem, despite ANYCUBIC saying it shouldn't be. I was disappointed with Pro 2 after having good success with other ANYCUBIC resins.
@@discoveringancienthistoryw5246 Yes, I was able to make it work, but it did take a few tweaks to my default settings.
Have you tried any of the rapid resins or fast print resins. I'm curious if they are worth the price increase.
Sorry, I have not.
I almost only use the High-speed resin on the M5s. My main resins are the high-speed resin and the ABS-like pro 2 resin.
I have loved the high speed resin because I can print something 7.5 inches tall in 4 hours and 30 minutes (at .5 layer height). Something like that would take closer to 20/30 hours on my previous printer.
I can get more prints done faster, leading to me having a lot more fun with the hobby. It's also more forgiving on print failures since I don't lose as much time.
Prob is phrozen printer, not for setting or resin, phrozen is worst brand with other compng resin, even sonic mini 4k series is worst product, they sold separate upgrade parts aftr selling worst printer, sonic mini 4k is full scam production, I faced so many issues with sonic mini 4k printer..
What were your actual/full settings?
I used the default Anycubic settings example on their website, and only changed exposures to 4 seconds & lift speed to 100mm/min, combined with the "thick" support structures settings.
Is this water washable?
No, isopropyl alcohol preferably 95%.
Dude, first of all u knw about phrozen printer, its worst brand printer, phrozen can work onky with phrozen resin, and worst on other resin..
I hv same phrozen sonic mini 4k, its good with only compny own brand phrozen resin, but worst in other brand resin, i sold my phone with garbage price..
Now i hv 3 anycubic printer and working smooth witj all brand resin.. so here is not issues with ur setting, prob is ur phrozen printer..
My Phrozen Sonic Mini is definitely at the low end of the market, but after tweaking the settings I was able to get it to work with this Anycubic resin, as well as two other 3rd party resins from FunCreCol.
@@summetj u can say it's temporary solution with too much struggle, which I did with my phrozen,
But if u want 99% smooth accuracy then anycubic printer is best, my all result going so smooth, aftr 1 n half Yr, my anycubic mono 4k working like butter, without any struggle in settings..
Rite now I hv two mono 4k and one MONO 2, total 3 anycubic printer with I hv , fully satisfied ..
@@summetj and cost wise, anycubic far low budget printer with low cost resin, which is good for printer community