I want to extend a warm thanks for the information you share on forums such as this. I am a new convert to photography with a bias toward astrophotography and made a recent purchase of an entry level DSLR (D3500) together with lenses etc.Until the last couple of nights I had only managed to take 5 or 6 photos (in full auto) of my car but with the aid of Photopills and tutorials such as yours set off to a class 1 bortel location that I found on the light pollution map. To say that I was blown away by the images I returned with would be an understatement, all shot in manually using the experience you have shared in your tutorials. Whilst Im sure a Pro would / could be able to find a lot of faults in the end result I would have to say that regardless I myself am over the moon and as expressed as a (very) new and somewhat naive photographer I feel I am already hooked.
I'm so pleased to hear that you enjoy the videos Brian. It's always my desire to inspire people to get out and discover the amazing night sky and landscape .. and that's exactly what you've done .. great work.
Hello Richard. I really appreciate your willingness to pass on your profound knowledge. Quite a number of pros do not share your enthusiasm to help us, the lesser snappers. I gain hugely from your experience; no desire to turn pro only want to improve my skills. Full marks.
Thanks again John. In my experience there is very little difference between an enthusiastic amateur and a professional when it comes to skill level. Perhaps a skilled professional has the advantage of practice but many times that time is spent on making money rather than creating art. Appreciate your thoughts.
My wife and I set out a month ago to shoot Neowise. It was so bright around our city that the shots didn't look good in the camera. Weeks went by, and I was working on another project and discovered the frames still in my camera. Using the techniques you have taught me, I applied them to these shots just for practice. The sky darkened, the stars began to pop out, and there on the left third of the frame was Comet Neowise. Thanks for your continued lessons, and continued inspiration. I still look forward to taking your class. 120 days until retirement. Thanks, and keep up the great work. Your friend in Arkansas.
As always, a great video. I wish I could be out shooting like you. We are so smoked out in California. It is terrible. I have so many great shots planned.
Hi Richard, thank you so much for this very educative video! It brightened a number of shadows of my skills as regards shooting and editing nightscapes :). All the best from Serock in Poland!
Thanks yet again for your continued inspiration Richard :) A little Ninja Trick for the mask in Sequator; Check the box named "Auxillary highlight" (under "Irregular mask") and you will get at red / green overlay showing where your mask is. Makes it a whole lot easier to se what you are doing. Finally dark nights again here in Norway, starting this month, so now I'm going all in to practise every little bit I have learned from you during our summer months
Hello, what an excellent flow in this editing tutorial...! Thank You again, for making these videos, layers of inspiration. PS: You have to "keep this Richard fellow" around...He's a great narrator...!
Thanks Richard, another sensational video tutorial, I have got a lot out of your videos and love the post processing techniques. They have been a great help with my own editing. Thank you :)
Great video Richard. What a great tutorial and I don’t think I’ve ever seen the southern cross look so good. Hope you sell a million calendars mate, they look fantastic! Thanks for sharing the video 👍🙏
thanks Richard I have learn so mush and such inspiration I'm looking forward to getting a calendar. It maybe sometime before we shoot night sky or any sky with the fires now. thanks again.
WoW 🤩! This is awesome 👏 and very informative... I’ve learned so much things listening to it! And I will listen to it many times so it gets incorporated. What a wonderful teacher you are! Thank you 🙏 so much !
Fantastic video & super good tips also. I was going to purchase the MSM tracker but i will try these teckniques 1st. Absoutely love the finished image Richard 👏👏. Keep up the brilliant work & videos 🙏
Hi Richard, Hope you, Glenys and family are all doing well. We can't get enough of your tutorials. Just love your zest teaching and making these videos for all of us to enjoy. Take care and hope to have a refresher outing course with you soon 😘
Another great lesson Richard, post processing is my main interest, I liked the star reduction at the end, have not tried that yet. Had a great meeting last Tuesday, really enjoyed it, even thought I am a regular viewer of this site. You received great response with more members looking to get out and try. And there was a lot of requests for a future invite back to you. Thanks for the Zoom.
Fantastic video Richard so helpful IF I ever get my computer back over 2 mths now ( this one would does not cope ) I will be putting some that I did not know into practice Many thanks
Hi Richard. I've just recently come to retirement age here in NZ and have decided to put my hard earned cash into capturing the stars and Milky Way over here. I loved your videos, it's made learning so much easier. We are lucky here in NZ as we can travel around to some amazing spots to capture the stars. Not that I'm doing a great job yet at that part.....but it is sure great to look up into that amazingly clear sky. Thanks again.
Hi, Richard. I enjoy your videos very much! I have a comment about Sequator, and a couple of suggestions on your editing process. I recently photographed the night sky with a dead tree which had many branches. When I tried to erase the sky in Sequator, I found that I could not get between the branches with the eraser tool, and thought those areas would show star movement. However, when I inspected the result, there was no movement! I think Sequator must have an algorithm that accounts for this, and you need not worry about obtaining a perfect sky mask. In Photoshop, rather than duplicating a mask for each of the light-painted images, I find it easier to use the Quick Select or Magic Wand tool on the Sequator image to select the foreground. This is usually pretty easy, since the foreground on that image is usually darker than the sky. I then create a group for the light-painted images, and create a mask for the group from this selection. The sky is eliminated from all of the light-painted images, and all I have to worry about is masking out the unwanted portions of each image. Rather than eliminating hot pixels from each image, you might try creating a stamped layer (CTL-ALT-SHIFT-E) when finished editing, and eliminating the hot pixels from that stamped layer. Thanks again for your videos!
Upon further thought, I've realized that in Sequator the base image is used for the unmasked area of the image. If stars exist in that area, they are the base image stars, and will have noise around them, just as the rest of the unmasked foreground.
All good suggestions ..I'll take that on board. I often like to take the longer road when doing these editing videos as it helps people understand the principles for themselves rather than fast tracking certain parts. But of course when editing our own images speed is always a good thing.
That's pretty cool. Not many old trucks and such sitting around these parts but I've been thinking about getting some lobster traps sitting on a dock. Got a nice one from last night, need to process. Always nice to see more tips and tweaks that can be done. Keep these coming. I didn't know mirrorless camera's had more hot pixel issues than DSLR but no matter, I only recently upgraded to a full frame and older D610 at that, so I'll be behind the times for a while haha. Very slick how easy they are to remove though.
As always, amazing content Richard! Thank you so much for sharing all this with the audience and for your passion and dedication to nightscape photography. Just wanted to comment on the hot pixels you mentioned, those are actually dust particles and water droplets lit by you torch, look at the dark areas behind your torch light - there's no hot pixels there! If there were any hot pixels they'd appear randomly throughout the frame.
Loved the complete guide on how to stack and post-process these images, Richard. Although I check your channel regularly as it is one of the channels where there is no BS but genuine information and knowledge, I also get to learn something new in every video. That truck resembled the truck used in Jeeper Creepers 1 though :D (just saying)
I think you need to do a video on shooting nightscapes from your apartment window in Melbourne !! Bound to be a big hit! (autocorrect keeps trying to turn nightscapes into night-caps - starting to need those too)
Very cool! I have been waiting since the last video to see how you did this. I don't have light room but I think I can use Gimp and the Sequator app. I appreciate it!
Great video Richard, really like your processing skills , kept it simple and easy to understand , the star reduction looks good, have you seen Alyn wallace star glow filter, would work a dream in the southern hem sky with the core, unfortunatly us northern hem dont get to see the full beuty of the core. look forward to your next video.
Hi Richard, always great to see your workflow and comparing it to the own one and always little bit of new info for myself. Two points that came in my mind: You concern quite a lot about the hot pixels. When tkeing the light paint shots I always use the internal noise reduction of the cam (whoch means the dark frame after the actual one). That kills all the hot pixels. And I dont see a reason not to do it. Because time is not a problem in this. Or are there other reasons to not use the internal noise reduction? Well just another minor point/hint: As I wanted to buy the LED Lenser P7.2 it was not in the portfolio in spring this year. It was the P7 which has the same features, but it took me whule because I desperately tried to get the 7.2. Maybe you can adjust that to not confuse people. I also think about buying one of your calendars. In germany we have the IBAN and BIC System for internationality. Your account does not seem to have that system. So not sure about the payment problem. But I dont want spam that problem here in the public discussions. Maybe a short video about that ould help that you dont have too much trouble with people asking the same question over an over again. Greetings Steffen
Hey Steffen, thanks again for watching. Firstly for international payments I'll send out a paypal invoice for the calendars. All you need do is fill out the form showing all your details on my website as linked above. I think the long exposure noise reduction will work but it is very time consuming and I'd prefer to deal with it simply in post. The LED Lenser P7 series are all very good. I believe the P7.2 model is now discontinued.
Hi Richard, I'm very new to photography and night photography. I really enjoed this video, so much detail but easily to follow. I do have a question though, what was that filter you mentioned on you LED Lenser torch? Cheers mate, crackin video.
Thanks a lot for watching. I'm using a 1/2 cto gel on the torch to help balance out the natural blue colour tone of LED lights. See here: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/44201-REG/Rosco_RS340811_3408_Filter_RoscoSun.html
Wow! Great Tutorial Richard! Dust & Scratch filter, Color-Range Selection, Star Reduction, Just super! Can't wait to put these into my workflow. I was wondering, could you comment on how long you light-paint during an exposure? Do you use a wireless remote, or a tablet or smartphone when adjusting exposure for light-painting, and foreground shots, so as to keep the tripod from moving? I'm jacked! Getting ready to go out west and shoot some Night sky's in dark places! Once again Richard very inspiring!
I really appreciate you watching Leon, thanks so much for the comments. I do use a wireless remote for all my shots. It's really hard to be exact regarding how long I light paint as it varies with all my images.
Great video Richard, dust and scratch filter... l learn something new everyday 🤔 When printing images do you prefer to use AdobeRGB over SRGB? I have been wondering whether it's worth switching to get a more vibrant print? Thanks for taking the time to produce the video and such a great subject, the sky colours really compliment it 😊
Wonderful video as usual Richard. I’ve been learning so much from you. I tried doing some light painting on some trees in a Milky Way photo I just shot using iso 500 f5.6 for 15 seconds (20mm lens) on the foreground. They came out very dim and barely noticeable. I think the trees were just too far away from the camera with those setting. Approximately, how far away was the truck from your camera using the light painting setting you used? I’m learning but need a lot more practice. You make it look so easy. Thanks for sharing so much of your knowledge with us.
Thanks for watching Tom. There are 3 parameters to consider when lighting. Distance from subject, intensity of light source and how long the light is shining for. All 3 of these will impact on your end result. I do like to get pretty close to my subjects if I can.
Hi Richard, thank you for another great tutorial and reminder of the post-process steps in LR, PS and Sequator. I want to know do you, or does the farm, regularly cut/trim the grass around your foreground objects, like the old vehicles, etc? I was out at a pioneer era themed tourist attraction near my town earlier this week and they have old farm machinery there too, but the tall grasses have grown through the equipment and it looks a bit messy. In a year or two, things can get overgrown and may not be as appealing for your images. What do you do?
MY Sony A7RIII also has hot pixels issues when doing long exposure too. especially when using high ISO. By the way, Thanks for an awesome tutorial as always.
@@nightscapeimages.richard exposure is just about 30 sec something , the hot pixels start appearing already :s . Anyway, I need a tedious job to delete them in post process or Dust and scratch will do too.
Hi. Great Video. thanks for all the details. Personally, I directly stack the raw in sequator. Does it change a lot to increase the exposure and use tiff as you do? cheers from France
Thanks a lot David. I'm not sure to be honest as I've never used the raw files. But in general I like to apply various lens corrections etc before editing my shots.
Great video Richard. Ive noticed you have tweaked your work flow in PS when it comes to blending sky layer into foreground specifically not having to carefully run around the trees anymore. When it comes to light painting do you do all your lighting in one 15 sec exposure or is it multiple passes/exposures around the object?
Thanks for looking Tony. The method I prefer to use is what I've shown here where you don't need a fine selection of the foreground subjects. I usually shoot more than one layer for the foreground .. lit from different angles.
Loved the session Richard, as others have said, I'll have to try the star reduction. Could you comment on adjusting images before or after pano merging or stacking. It seems like you prefer to adjust, then stack or merge. With your calendar did you have to do a proof before your bulk order, and did you have to make adjustments between proof and order? Any tips on screen to print adjustments would be appreciated. Thanks for the always great content!
Thanks a lot Josh. Yes I edit a bit then stitch then edit again. I did do a proof which went off to the printer and they checked all the margins etc. I usually lighten the images up a bit for print.
I assume you mean the sky images before stacking in Sequator. If so I export them from Lightroom as tiff files. Lightroom doesn't work as a PSD format.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thanks. The reason I ask is because at 8:46 in your video, right before clicking export, the File setting shows PSD as the export file format. You had been talking about tiffs so I assumed that's what you meant but the actual video was just a little confusing. I used this method this past weekend to capture a milky way shot with a foreground object. It turned out great and the method was fairly easy to use. One thing I'm to experiment with is using luminosity masks to mask out the sky. It seems like it might be quick and accurate and would work great for complex objects like trees overlapping the sky.
@@ronawood Yes there are always many ways to achieve the same results. Luminosity masking is certainly a good option as well. Once again I appreciate you watching.
after participating in your workshop October 2023, it was easy following your edits on one of my images. Love it. Thanks Richard
That's fantastic Wayne, really pleased it was useful.
Each of your videos simply amazes me!
I'm really pleased you like the videos Walter
it is never enough of watching your awesome tutorials
I'm very glad you like it.
Another great video Richard.Thank you so much.
Thanks very much for watching Gintas, I appreciate it.
FANTASTIC!
Thanks a lot Bret
Great job Richard, an entire course in a 40 minute video. Thanks for the lesson.
I'm glad you like it Steve, thanks for watching.
I want to extend a warm thanks for the information you share on forums such as this. I am a new convert to photography with a bias toward astrophotography and made a recent purchase of an entry level DSLR (D3500) together with lenses etc.Until the last couple of nights I had only managed to take 5 or 6 photos (in full auto) of my car but with the aid of Photopills and tutorials such as yours set off to a class 1 bortel location that I found on the light pollution map. To say that I was blown away by the images I returned with would be an understatement, all shot in manually using the experience you have shared in your tutorials. Whilst Im sure a Pro would / could be able to find a lot of faults in the end result I would have to say that regardless I myself am over the moon and as expressed as a (very) new and somewhat naive photographer I feel I am already hooked.
I'm so pleased to hear that you enjoy the videos Brian. It's always my desire to inspire people to get out and discover the amazing night sky and landscape .. and that's exactly what you've done .. great work.
26:12 is my favorite bit :) beautiful
Ok . .but I hope you like the rest of it. Thanks for watching.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Your videos are a great help. Thank you
Thanks again for your video and helping others to enjoy the night sky with a camera Richard
Really appreciate that Dave
Finally got time to watch your video. There is always plenty to learn from you. Thanks Mr Richard. Cheers!!!!!!
I'm glad you got to watch it my friend.
Absolutely fabulous!!! Your teaching skills are top notch as you keep everything simple and easy to understand!! Thank You !
I'm so pleased you like the videos James, really appreciate that.
Thank you for sharing your post processing. This was one of the best layer blending tutorials on the net. Thank you. That is an amazing photo,
Thank you so much for watching Frank. I have quite a few nightscape processing videos on my channel. More to come.
Hello Richard. I really appreciate your willingness to pass on your profound knowledge. Quite a number of pros do not share your enthusiasm to help us, the lesser snappers. I gain hugely from your experience; no desire to turn pro only want to improve my skills. Full marks.
Thanks again John. In my experience there is very little difference between an enthusiastic amateur and a professional when it comes to skill level. Perhaps a skilled professional has the advantage of practice but many times that time is spent on making money rather than creating art. Appreciate your thoughts.
Another great video! thanks so much for all love you put in your video here!
My pleasure Fernando, thanks for watching.
Love this composition!
Thanks so much Marcos
Thankyou Richard. Highly informative as usual. I'm learning a lot from your tutorials.
I'm really pleased you liked it Peter. Thanks heaps for watching.
My wife and I set out a month ago to shoot Neowise. It was so bright around our city that the shots didn't look good in the camera. Weeks went by, and I was working on another project and discovered the frames still in my camera. Using the techniques you have taught me, I applied them to these shots just for practice. The sky darkened, the stars began to pop out, and there on the left third of the frame was Comet Neowise. Thanks for your continued lessons, and continued inspiration. I still look forward to taking your class. 120 days until retirement. Thanks, and keep up the great work. Your friend in Arkansas.
I'm really pleased the videos have been helpful Jim, thanks so much for the comments.
This never gets old. I absolutely appreciate every one of your video's. Always so informative. Thanks for posting Richard.
I'm really pleased you like it my friend.
👍👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏👏👏 great!!!!!!!!! Это очень технично и эстетично !!!!!!
Thank you. I very much appreciate your comments.
Well done Richard, one of your very best video's. I learn so much from your efforts.
I'm so pleased you enjoyed it Francis.
Thank you for perfect video and explanation. I love your channel.
Thank you so much for watching and for your very encouraging comments.
As always, a great video. I wish I could be out shooting like you. We are so smoked out in California. It is terrible. I have so many great shots planned.
Thanks so much for watching Sharyn. Yes I know what you mean about the smoke . .we had it last summer here as well. Not good at all.
A very good review of material covered before. I need continual reviews. Thanks.
Thanks a lot for watching Guy
impressive!!!
Thanks a lot for watching Chris
Another great session
Many thanks indeed Spence
Fantastic video, always appreciate seeing your process. Beautiful photo as well!
Thanks a lot my friend.
Always really interesting to see other people’s editing workflow! Cheers! 👍
Thanks mate, really appreciated.
Hey Richard, thank you so much for this comprehensive and very instructional video. This is one of the best informative videos out there.
You're very welcome Brian, thanks heaps for watching. Hope you're going well.
Hi Richard, thank you so much for this very educative video! It brightened a number of shadows of my skills as regards shooting and editing nightscapes :). All the best from Serock in Poland!
Thank you so much for watching my videos Julis, I really appreciate that.
Thank you Richard lots of great Information .
Thanks heaps for watching Jeff
Richard, what a good video, thank you very much for sharing ... I hope the calendar can be sent to Chile, greetings!
Thanks very much Marco. I've had problems with India and Cyprus so far.
Thanks yet again for your continued inspiration Richard :)
A little Ninja Trick for the mask in Sequator; Check the box named "Auxillary highlight" (under "Irregular mask") and you will get at red / green overlay showing where your mask is. Makes it a whole lot easier to se what you are doing.
Finally dark nights again here in Norway, starting this month, so now I'm going all in to practise every little bit I have learned from you during our summer months
Thanks very much for watching Torbjorn. I really appreciate your comments.
Hello, what an excellent flow in this editing tutorial...!
Thank You again, for making these videos, layers of inspiration.
PS: You have to "keep this Richard fellow" around...He's a great narrator...!
Haha, thanks so much for watching again Jakob
Thanks Richard, another sensational video tutorial, I have got a lot out of your videos and love the post processing techniques. They have been a great help with my own editing. Thank you :)
Thanks so much for watching Alan
Great video Richard. What a great tutorial and I don’t think I’ve ever seen the southern cross look so good. Hope you sell a million calendars mate, they look fantastic! Thanks for sharing the video 👍🙏
Thanks heaps as always Adrian mate.
Looking forward to opening my calendar Richard! It arrived last week 👍
Fantastic Carl, thanks for the purchase.
Nightscape Images great to see the editing story behind the image too this morning 👍
Good Onya Richard, lets hope Daniel lets you out soon 👍
Thanks a lot Paul. Thankfully I'm not in Melbourne .. they have the curfew to worry about.
Yet another great video and super location. Hoping all's well down there in Aus
I really appreciate that David, yes I'm going ok thanks.
Wow, brilliant video and photo Richard, quite a few tips and tricks.
I really enjoy these videos.
Thanks heaps Brad, I hope your Bunnings shopping was a success ...!!!
@@nightscapeimages.richard lol all good mate.
thanks Richard I have learn so mush and such inspiration I'm looking forward to getting a calendar. It maybe sometime before we shoot night sky or any sky with the fires now. thanks again.
Hey Brandi, those fires are terrible. I'll send your calendar out tomorrow. I'll reply to your other email. Thanks heaps.
WoW 🤩! This is awesome 👏 and very informative... I’ve learned so much things listening to it! And I will listen to it many times so it gets incorporated. What a wonderful teacher you are! Thank you 🙏 so much !
You're very kind as always Carole. Thanks so much for your encouraging words.
G'day Richard. Just ordered three calendars, money in your account. Now to watch your video :). Thanks mate...... Terrific lesson once again.
Thanks so much John
Fantastic video & super good tips also. I was going to purchase the MSM tracker but i will try these teckniques 1st. Absoutely love the finished image Richard 👏👏. Keep up the brilliant work & videos 🙏
Once again I very much appreciate your comments my friend.
Great to see the process you went through to create the final image, certainly amazing what can be achieved with the software out there in the market.
Yes you're right there mate, thanks again for watching.
Amazing, as ever.
Thanks so much Jose
Hi Richard, Hope you, Glenys and family are all doing well. We can't get enough of your tutorials. Just love your zest teaching and making these videos for all of us to enjoy. Take care and hope to have a refresher outing course with you soon 😘
Thanks so much for your encouraging comments Jenny, really appreciate that as always.
Another great lesson Richard, post processing is my main interest, I liked the star reduction at the end, have not tried that yet. Had a great meeting last Tuesday, really enjoyed it, even thought I am a regular viewer of this site. You received great response with more members looking to get out and try. And there was a lot of requests for a future invite back to you. Thanks for the Zoom.
I really appreciate that Gary. It was a very good night.
Fantastic video Richard so helpful IF I ever get my computer back over 2 mths now ( this one would does not cope ) I will be putting some that I did not know into practice Many thanks
I appreciate you watching Kym
Another great tutorial! I must try that star minimisation technique, it looks great. Thanks again for such excellent content!
I really appreciate that Simon.
Hi Richard. I've just recently come to retirement age here in NZ and have decided to put my hard earned cash into capturing the stars and Milky Way over here. I loved your videos, it's made learning so much easier. We are lucky here in NZ as we can travel around to some amazing spots to capture the stars. Not that I'm doing a great job yet at that part.....but it is sure great to look up into that amazingly clear sky. Thanks again.
Good on you John. I'm really pleased to hear you're motivated to get out under the stars. Thanks so much for your kind words.
Great video as always thank you Richard.
Thanks lot for watching Gavin
Excellent video and explanation.
Thanks so much Jason
Once again you did it - great lesson very constructive - I like it
I'm really glad you like it Svend
Absolutely amazing.I have been searching for such a detailed tutorial since quite some time.Keep up the good work🙂
I'm really pleased you like it my friend.
Hi, Richard. I enjoy your videos very much! I have a comment about Sequator, and a couple of suggestions on your editing process.
I recently photographed the night sky with a dead tree which had many branches. When I tried to erase the sky in Sequator, I found that I could not get between the branches with the eraser tool, and thought those areas would show star movement. However, when I inspected the result, there was no movement! I think Sequator must have an algorithm that accounts for this, and you need not worry about obtaining a perfect sky mask.
In Photoshop, rather than duplicating a mask for each of the light-painted images, I find it easier to use the Quick Select or Magic Wand tool on the Sequator image to select the foreground. This is usually pretty easy, since the foreground on that image is usually darker than the sky.
I then create a group for the light-painted images, and create a mask for the group from this selection. The sky is eliminated from all of the light-painted images, and all I have to worry about is masking out the unwanted portions of each image.
Rather than eliminating hot pixels from each image, you might try creating a stamped layer (CTL-ALT-SHIFT-E) when finished editing, and eliminating the hot pixels from that stamped layer.
Thanks again for your videos!
Upon further thought, I've realized that in Sequator the base image is used for the unmasked area of the image. If stars exist in that area, they are the base image stars, and will have noise around them, just as the rest of the unmasked foreground.
All good suggestions ..I'll take that on board. I often like to take the longer road when doing these editing videos as it helps people understand the principles for themselves rather than fast tracking certain parts. But of course when editing our own images speed is always a good thing.
I always enjoy your processing videos Richard and this detailed run through was no exception :]
Take care down there mate 👍.
Thanks so much Paul. Really do appreciate your kind support.
Very nice Tutorial
Thanks as always for watching Rodolfo
Thx, excellent tutorial
Thanks so much for watching Ton
That's pretty cool. Not many old trucks and such sitting around these parts but I've been thinking about getting some lobster traps sitting on a dock. Got a nice one from last night, need to process. Always nice to see more tips and tweaks that can be done. Keep these coming. I didn't know mirrorless camera's had more hot pixel issues than DSLR but no matter, I only recently upgraded to a full frame and older D610 at that, so I'll be behind the times for a while haha. Very slick how easy they are to remove though.
Thanks as always for watching, really appreciated.
excellent vid kinda filled in some of the areas i was struggling with on the last trip ..cheers
Thanks for watching. Glad you liked it.
More fantastic content 👏
Thanks very much for watching.
Wonderful video Richard. I believe you meant "Z mount" at 5:33. All the best.
Yes that's the 20mm f1.8S . .Z mount lens.
As always, amazing content Richard! Thank you so much for sharing all this with the audience and for your passion and dedication to nightscape photography. Just wanted to comment on the hot pixels you mentioned, those are actually dust particles and water droplets lit by you torch, look at the dark areas behind your torch light - there's no hot pixels there! If there were any hot pixels they'd appear randomly throughout the frame.
I really appreciate your insights Yevhen. Thanks so much for watching
Loved the complete guide on how to stack and post-process these images, Richard. Although I check your channel regularly as it is one of the channels where there is no BS but genuine information and knowledge, I also get to learn something new in every video. That truck resembled the truck used in Jeeper Creepers 1 though :D (just saying)
Haha, thanks so much for watching Nikhil, really appreciate your comments.
I think you need to do a video on shooting nightscapes from your apartment window in Melbourne !! Bound to be a big hit! (autocorrect keeps trying to turn nightscapes into night-caps - starting to need those too)
Haha, thanks for watching Duncan. I don't have an apartment in Melbourne and at the moment it's the last place I want to be visiting.
Very cool! I have been waiting since the last video to see how you did this. I don't have light room but I think I can use Gimp and the Sequator app. I appreciate it!
Thanks heaps for watching, really appreciate that.
Great video Richard, really like your processing skills , kept it simple and easy to understand , the star reduction looks good, have you seen Alyn wallace star glow filter, would work a dream in the southern hem sky with the core, unfortunatly us northern hem dont get to see the full beuty of the core. look forward to your next video.
Thanks very much Rav, yes I've seen Alyn's star glow filter . .seems really nice.
Great post procesing details video. In my country we still in lockdown. Its really hard to get out to shot nightscape.
Thanks for looking again Luis
Hi Richard,
always great to see your workflow and comparing it to the own one and always little bit of new info for myself.
Two points that came in my mind:
You concern quite a lot about the hot pixels.
When tkeing the light paint shots I always use the internal noise reduction of the cam (whoch means the dark frame after the actual one). That kills all the hot pixels.
And I dont see a reason not to do it. Because time is not a problem in this.
Or are there other reasons to not use the internal noise reduction?
Well just another minor point/hint:
As I wanted to buy the LED Lenser P7.2 it was not in the portfolio in spring this year. It was the P7 which has the same features, but it took me whule because I desperately tried to get the 7.2. Maybe you can adjust that to not confuse people.
I also think about buying one of your calendars.
In germany we have the IBAN and BIC System for internationality.
Your account does not seem to have that system.
So not sure about the payment problem.
But I dont want spam that problem here in the public discussions.
Maybe a short video about that ould help that you dont have too much trouble with people asking the same question over an over again.
Greetings Steffen
Hey Steffen, thanks again for watching. Firstly for international payments I'll send out a paypal invoice for the calendars. All you need do is fill out the form showing all your details on my website as linked above. I think the long exposure noise reduction will work but it is very time consuming and I'd prefer to deal with it simply in post. The LED Lenser P7 series are all very good. I believe the P7.2 model is now discontinued.
Hi Richard, I'm very new to photography and night photography. I really enjoed this video, so much detail but easily to follow. I do have a question though, what was that filter you mentioned on you LED Lenser torch? Cheers mate, crackin video.
Thanks a lot for watching. I'm using a 1/2 cto gel on the torch to help balance out the natural blue colour tone of LED lights. See here: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/44201-REG/Rosco_RS340811_3408_Filter_RoscoSun.html
@@nightscapeimages.richard thats great, thankyou for the reply . Cheers mate.
Wow! Great Tutorial Richard! Dust & Scratch filter, Color-Range Selection, Star Reduction, Just super! Can't wait to put these into my workflow. I was wondering, could you comment on how long you light-paint during an exposure? Do you use a wireless remote, or a tablet or smartphone when adjusting exposure for light-painting, and foreground shots, so as to keep the tripod from moving? I'm jacked! Getting ready to go out west and shoot some Night sky's in dark places! Once again Richard very inspiring!
I really appreciate you watching Leon, thanks so much for the comments. I do use a wireless remote for all my shots. It's really hard to be exact regarding how long I light paint as it varies with all my images.
Great video Richard, dust and scratch filter... l learn something new everyday 🤔 When printing images do you prefer to use AdobeRGB over SRGB? I have been wondering whether it's worth switching to get a more vibrant print? Thanks for taking the time to produce the video and such a great subject, the sky colours really compliment it 😊
Thanks so much Leigh. With printing most people would suggest SRGB but to be honest I've not really noticed any difference.
Another fantastic video Richard but couldn't find the Callander link. Could you please forward. Gary
Hey Gary, here's the Calendar Link: www.nightscapeimages.com.au/2021-calendars.html
Wonderful video as usual Richard. I’ve been learning so much from you. I tried doing some light painting on some trees in a Milky Way photo I just shot using iso 500 f5.6 for 15 seconds (20mm lens) on the foreground. They came out very dim and barely noticeable. I think the trees were just too far away from the camera with those setting. Approximately, how far away was the truck from your camera using the light painting setting you used? I’m learning but need a lot more practice. You make it look so easy. Thanks for sharing so much of your knowledge with us.
Thanks for watching Tom. There are 3 parameters to consider when lighting. Distance from subject, intensity of light source and how long the light is shining for. All 3 of these will impact on your end result. I do like to get pretty close to my subjects if I can.
Still on lockdown? After the hot pixel comment I may just use my D750 a bit longer. Love these vids Richard.
Really appreciate that Bruce. There is a lot of lock down still in Victoria . .worse in Melbourne than anywhere else though. I'm not in Melbourne.
Hi Richard, thank you for another great tutorial and reminder of the post-process steps in LR, PS and Sequator. I want to know do you, or does the farm, regularly cut/trim the grass around your foreground objects, like the old vehicles, etc? I was out at a pioneer era themed tourist attraction near my town earlier this week and they have old farm machinery there too, but the tall grasses have grown through the equipment and it looks a bit messy. In a year or two, things can get overgrown and may not be as appealing for your images. What do you do?
Thanks for having a look Bob. They have sheep on the property so the long grass is usually not an issue.
MY Sony A7RIII also has hot pixels issues when doing long exposure too. especially when using high ISO. By the way, Thanks for an awesome tutorial as always.
Thanks for looking. The A7 series are bad for hot pixels.
@@nightscapeimages.richard exposure is just about 30 sec something , the hot pixels start appearing already :s . Anyway, I need a tedious job to delete them in post process or Dust and scratch will do too.
Hi. Great Video. thanks for all the details. Personally, I directly stack the raw in sequator. Does it change a lot to increase the exposure and use tiff as you do? cheers from France
Thanks a lot David. I'm not sure to be honest as I've never used the raw files. But in general I like to apply various lens corrections etc before editing my shots.
@@nightscapeimages.richard thanks. I il te but since i am doing all dark shots, that might not work Well.
Great video Richard. Ive noticed you have tweaked your work flow in PS when it comes to blending sky layer into foreground specifically not having to carefully run around the trees anymore. When it comes to light painting do you do all your lighting in one 15 sec exposure or is it multiple passes/exposures around the object?
Thanks for looking Tony. The method I prefer to use is what I've shown here where you don't need a fine selection of the foreground subjects. I usually shoot more than one layer for the foreground .. lit from different angles.
Loved the session Richard, as others have said, I'll have to try the star reduction. Could you comment on adjusting images before or after pano merging or stacking. It seems like you prefer to adjust, then stack or merge. With your calendar did you have to do a proof before your bulk order, and did you have to make adjustments between proof and order? Any tips on screen to print adjustments would be appreciated. Thanks for the always great content!
Thanks a lot Josh. Yes I edit a bit then stitch then edit again. I did do a proof which went off to the printer and they checked all the margins etc. I usually lighten the images up a bit for print.
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When ordering a calendar would be nice to get feedback if Richard got his money and whent sent to know of its on it way or not
Hey Andrew, your calendar went out today in the post. No payment received as yet.
When you export the background images before stacking them, do you export in Tiff Format or PSD. Your video showed PSD before you hit enter.
I assume you mean the sky images before stacking in Sequator. If so I export them from Lightroom as tiff files. Lightroom doesn't work as a PSD format.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thanks. The reason I ask is because at 8:46 in your video, right before clicking export, the File setting shows PSD as the export file format. You had been talking about tiffs so I assumed that's what you meant but the actual video was just a little confusing. I used this method this past weekend to capture a milky way shot with a foreground object. It turned out great and the method was fairly easy to use. One thing I'm to experiment with is using luminosity masks to mask out the sky. It seems like it might be quick and accurate and would work great for complex objects like trees overlapping the sky.
@@ronawood Yes there are always many ways to achieve the same results. Luminosity masking is certainly a good option as well. Once again I appreciate you watching.
Where do you get the gell sheets
Depends where you are in the world. See here: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/44201-REG/Rosco_RS340811_3408_Filter_RoscoSun.html