Today when I was watching you explain how to create time lapse videos, I could feel myself standing beside you in a "workshop" situation. Your videos truly are immersive as so many others have stated... & I was so inspired I went up to my roof & did time lapses... I have a lot to remember when I'm creating.
First of all Thank you very much for this amazing videos. Since I am in the field for almost a decade, but not at all a pro, also not even own a camera ( mostly worked with rented ones). Just now I got an entry level camera, and planning to do some experiments. Am living in a labor camp in Abudhabi, UAE. I hope The desert around me will become a great location for such experiments I hope. Thanks once again for the comprehensive and inspiring tutorial.
Thanks Richard, all your videos are hugely informative, educational and entertaining. This current workshop series however is absolutely stellar ('scuse the pun). Thank you for your generosity - it's hugely appreciated.
Hello Richard, regarding frame rates for video. Computers & smart phones operate at 60 fps, so any video clip created/recorded at 24 fps or 25 fps does not sync with the display of these devices. This causes video playback judder/stutter. For example when 25 fps video clip is played backed, because 25 isn't an even multiple of 60, to make 25 fps fit to 60 fps (25 fps is first converted to 30 fps, by after each 5 frames of video, a 6th frame is added that is a repeat of the 5th frame of video, then each frame is display twice on the monitor to fit 60 fps), Because each 5th frame of the 25 fps video clip is displayed for twice the length of time as each of the other 4 frames, this causes a stuttering effect during playback. So for smooth playback on computers and smart phones etc, the video clip should be created/recorded at 30 fps or 60 fps. Also 24 fps Video causes less stutter than 25 fps Video. Modern TV's, particularly TV's that have high display frame rates (ie 100fps/120fps or higher and that also support "true cinema", 24fps playback), these TV's can sync their display frame rate with the frame rate of any Video clip, thus video playback will be smooth and stutter free. So Video at 24, 25, 30, 50, or 60 fps will playback smooth on these TV's. (also PAL and NTSC has essentially become irrelevant of modern TV's)
Thanks for your very in depth and insightful comments Carl, really appreciate that. There is certainly a lot going on with the technical specs on this stuff that's for sure.
You are the man Richard. Thanks to your brilliant teaching methods, I’m going to try some time lapses. You’ve done all the hard work for me, so it should be easy! Much appreciated! 🙏😀👍
Another professional production full of pro-tips you are getting renowned for providing. I do like to watch a good time lapse, adding in more movement as you did with the car really does add a touch of finesse. I also liked the the time lapse going through daylight to night - great to watch.
Hi Richard, Another informative video tutorial. I would be interested to see a follow up of this tutorial on your post processing methods and techniques. Keep going with these presentations as they are highly appreciated. Cheers Geoff Sharpe.
Excellent video, as always. This has now made me want to go out and have a go at a timelapse. I love the one with the out of focus stars behind the trike, that is a real beauty. This is one of those tutorials that I'll need to watch again, and take notes, as I enjoyed the visual experience of simply watching it this first time!! :-) Thanks again for the excellent content, Richard. You are, without doubt, a master of your craft.
Hi Richard, Awesome and very helpful for me too 👌 I did also some timelapses with my Sony A7R3 and the build in intervalometer. Post processing with LR-Timelapse. Hint: you can use aperture-priority with priority: - fist auto adjust shutter to max. e.g. 15s - adjust ISO to max, e.g. 6400 - slow adjustment sensivity, electronic shutter on Flicker has been removed using LR-Timelpase 👍 Much easier than using QdslrDashboard to adjust exposure!
Thanks a lot for watching Siegfried. I have done a few time lapses using aperture priority but many camera light meters cannot work effectively in very low light conditions. Appreciate your comments.
Super gorgeous! Thank you for the gr8 show! Love how you are doing these episodes. And definitely going to look for a certain print to buy. Hopefully a nice pano.
Another brilliant video Richard i had to laugh about the Possum .I have timelapse plus view in transit to me so really looking forward to that and i already have syrp genie and mini genie and 2 sliders because i love shooting timelapses but never astro so something im going to learn .Keep up your fantastic work Phill
@@nightscapeimages.richard yes i ve done loads in the past but not astro timelapses which will have to wait now because the nights are too light now and milky way invisible till middle of july
Hallo Richard, thank you for the weekly dose of your knowledge and profesionally edited videos. The "how to" of the day to night time change was the most informative part for me. Can,t wait for next week. Thanks a lot for your enthusiasm you share with others. You are a great guy. Greetings Steffen
Hi. I've been fan of your timelapses from before, this is just like a cherry on a cake. Definitely separate images are better than baked in camera movie clip. Hope you can soon go out freely and create more astonishing pictures and timelapses for us- your followers Cheers Mr Richard!!!
Thanks Milorad. Yes the individual raw images will give you a far better result than the inbuilt video version for nightscapes. I do sometimes use the video version for daytime time lapse however.
Awesome video Richard. I love the little trike time lapse and the last one where you can see the stars reflected in the creek, beautiful.👏👏👏 I may have to stop following you though as you're encouraging me to spend money I haven't got. Lenses, lens warmers, panel lights, a torch... now you've got me looking at bloody sliders 😂
You want to try astro photography, I am in the same boat every thing is so expensive, I would like to get an other lens for time laps, would like something a bit better than the standard kit lens. Cheers Robert
A super episode Richard with some beautiful sequences - I love the reflection of the stars in the water at 38:16. Now that we're allowed out and about here in the UK it's time I had a go at one of these myself.... Looking forward to having a play on the computer with the 'Old Ruin' 👍.
Richard, what you are calling interval is the dark time. Interval is from one shutter opening to the next shutter opening. The interval has two parts, shutter time when the shutter is open and dark time when the shutter is closed. a 15 second exposure with 5 seconds of dark time has a 20 second interval. Great Job as always
Thanks for your insight Steve. Yes and that's the way the internal camera intervalometers work .. but they often don't actually explain that very well.
Like them. I felt like one of them tiny little bright stars was me looking back at you with the biggest smile thinking this is so Fantastic, you made me feel emotional seeing that we all are just a speck of light in this big beautiful universe. I LOVE THEM. I know you are a professional but really really well done. some of your pictures and videos just tear down my stone walls and until seeing your pics and videos the only thing that gets to me is seeing my kids learn and grow so from the bottom of my strange feeling heart right now I say thank you again.
Another stonker of a video tutorial Richard. I learnt so much during this. Definitely will be trying this along with your star trails tutorial. Mate, well done and thank you so much for sharing the video and your valuable knowledge. Cheers 👍🙏
Very informative, Thanks. And, you know who I am going to blame when I am tired and cranky after being out all night again - assuming weather in western Canada improves.:):):):):)
Very interesting video, I really want to start experimenting with time lapse, but I now realize that it is far more complex than what I first thought. I have so much on my to do already, I will have revisit this again at a later time. Thanks again for another excellent tutorial.
you don't fail to inspire with every episode of yours ,it would be helpful if you could also make a small part regarding the editing of these time lapses
Thanks so much for the excellent content found in this series as well as the rest of your videos! I've learned so much from them and can't wait to start applying what I've learned here out in the field. Keep it up! 😊
Hi Richard, There is a comment down below, a chap is going broke on photography equipment, I know exactly how it is, astro photography is expensive also, you can spend thousands on telescopes and ccd, cmos deep sky cameras for taking pics of nebulea star clusters and so on, then there's the mount to cary the scopes and the cameras etc. The audio plug on the warmers are common, we use warmers also on our scopes. Any way I just wanted to say an other fantastic video, I will probably view it again, along with some of the others, time laps is on my to do list while I am out shooting the the night sky, but I am waiting for clear skies. ha ha Cheers Robert
Lovely time lapse sequences Richard, and congratulations on another superb tutorial! The movement from the clouds and motion rails is quite mesmerising and looks very professional. Have recently purchased LR Timelapse and am very impressed with it. Will have a close look at the Timelapse+ offerings also. Many Thanks!
Wow!! Very interesting way to create time lapse. I need to watch couple times more this tutorial workshop along with your other videos about it. Love these subject. Thank you very much for share it with us.
Wow that was brilliant, I'm not quite to tackle something this cool But one day I'll try it. Love your work mate. I love the stars reflecting on the water looks amazing.
I’m going to get a motorised slider for time lapses. Not sure to go with the Edelkrone or try out the new Rhino which is a lot cheaper & doesn’t require a finicky app or a constant firmware update every time you turn it on. 👍😀 Thankyou for the review Richard!
Thanks for the great series! I took my first night image a few days ago, and it wouldn't have been remotely possible without your tutorials. (Even used an ancient micro 4/3rd's camera, and it came out pretty solid.) Proper stuff, Mr. Tatti!
@@nightscapeimages.richard Also, (though you might not *actually* care) to answer your rhetorical question about the US/world frame rate differences, it's because the USA's power runs on a 60hz frequency and Europe/Australia run on 50hz. In the 1930's all the way up to the mid-2000's, the power in home TV sets and their broadcast towers were all analogue, so that made it impossible to use anything that didn't fit in the 60hz power frequency evenly. Hence, 30fps in the US and 25fps in Aus/England.
@@coolkabe Yes that makes a lot of sense Adam. We run 240 volt power over here also. But even so .. why doesn't the world standardize these things ..???
I truly enjoyed every minute of this 40 minute video. Very informative, easy to follow full of knowledge. At minute 29:51 i got freaked out, when you moved the light and that branch looks like a snake. Lol. All the best to you.
Not into video yet, but thanks so much for sharing the amazing video clips and the subject knowledge. I know I'll always have a resource should I need it.
Hi Richard. Thanks for another excellent video tutorial regarding timelapse. Could you please advise as to the type of battery that you use to power the lens warmers ?? and how long in time might a battery last ?? Cheers & many thanks mate.
Hey Michael, thanks again for watching. For the usb one I use jusrt a standard powerbank, similar to a phone charger. For the 12 volt one I use one of those small portable jump starters. The batteries last a few hours of continuous use.
Thanks for the series of videos on Nightscape Photography and post processing. I have made leaps& bounds in my understanding of the importance of the latter. I have been chasing the lens warmers and can't seem to obtain a supplier. Where do you suggest I look to find something as dew is a major problem as you discussed.?
Thanks so much for your comments Geoff, really appreciated. I buy lens warmers on ebay or amazon. www.amazon.com.au/Compatible-Fujifilm-Telescopes-Condensation-Prevention/dp/B0873BTV6J/ref=sr_1_2?adgrpid=90113368794&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwr32BRD4ARIsAAJNf_2SmoXxK5GQ3JsRmP8iLty3tBYSX1xlIrwV8Z_H18uo1TliQmmS8O0aAiMqEALw_wcB&hvadid=414047100881&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9071496&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=7197078332433748293&hvtargid=kwd-648181607999&hydadcr=7914_13401&keywords=usb+lens+warmer&qid=1590672072&sr=8-2
Hello Richard, Thanks for your generous sharing of your videos and the Handbook PDF. I've done a bit of astrophotography but had not considered trying a timelapse. Now that I've watched this video I'm ready to give it a go. Or ready when I can get out of Chicago and into the dark. I have a question and a suggestion. In this video you show one of the lens warmers that you use but don't list them in your equipment list. From your comment in the video, sounds like you are more pleased with the one you don't show. Please list the details for that lens warmer and power supply. In some of your earlier videos, you spend more time with the post-processing for kind of photo you're working on and less time "in the field". In this video, you spend most of the video in the field and go through the post-processing rather quickly. I wonder whether you'd consider publishing an Episode 7B to go into the post processing steps and the various apps you use in greater detail? Thanks again. I'm learning a lot from each of your episodes during our "off season".
Thanks so much for watching Donald. I try to mix up the post processing videos as they take a lot of time to produce. Therefore the video's are quite long ... some like that others don't. The 2 lens warmers are similar its just that one is usb powered and the other isn't. I do show them both in detail in my first Q&A video from back in January. Post processing timelapse is the same as single shots its just that there are lots off them. Rendering the video is a different process however.
Love the shoot move shoot I have the ShooTools slider does an amazing job, Richard are you able to do a quick tutorial on the Timelapse + view in settings and how you set it up for a day to night Timelapse please.
Thanks so much for watching Vikki. No I haven't really taken any nightscapes with the G9 .. I usually use it for video. I actually will do a video about using that camera one day though. Thanks for reminding me.
that was brillant mate what can i say everyone below has said it but with the possum you should have used that DAME EDNA saying HELLO POSSUM he thought your lead was licorise cheers mate.
Thanks for another excellent video , gives me some inspiration for my upcoming trip ( Vic and SA ). I have had some success with the Z6 on Aperture priority , Auto ISO and exposure smoothing . Not so lucky with the Fuji's though they give a lot of flickering .
Hello Richard!! Another fantastic video!! I really enjoyed watching you timelapses they were awesome. I never did a timelapse before, but with the examples you showed and how to use the motion control devices I'm ready to give it a go. What's your opinion on using a star tracker to make a timelapse? Thank you again for your hard work!!! Looking forward to the next video!
Thanks so much for watching Gary. I have used a star tracker to create a timelapse on a couple of occasions. Check these videos. ruclips.net/video/gdmE2mRuH3c/видео.html ruclips.net/video/RUc5xHEnqeM/видео.html
Hi Richard, thans for another great episode. As usual, I learnt a few new things. I had never heard of the Timelapse+ View and Studio. I had a look at the webpage for these and here are my feelings. The View Intervalometer looks great but costs 400$. I use and can recommend an App called dlsrdashboard, it costs 10$ and connects over wifi to canon, sony and nikon and can completely control camera. t has a special feature for night to day and does this automatically. It works perfectly with D750, Z6, Z7 but the wifi on D850 is flakey at best. There are workarounds for cameras without wifi ( like D600 ). Personally this is a better / cheaper way to go. The Studio program looks similar to LRTimeapse and costs about the same. In Europe this program is more or less the standard and much used, maybe the Studio program has advantages, as it is a plugin in Lightroom ? Keep up the good work, looking forward to your next video.
Thanks a lot David. Yes I've seen dslrdashboard. I wasn't aware it did automatic ramping, I thought you had to keep changing the exposure. I don't trust wifi either on most cameras .. not to mention the battery drain. I think overall Lrtimelapse is more fully featured but I love the simplicity of the Studio program.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Yes, dlsrdashboard does everything automatically and works great, particularly at the price of 10$. You take a test shot at dusk, tell it the maximum exposure, iso and aperture and it does all changes itself, but you can override and tweak inbetween. The app can also control almost everything on the camera, auto focus, manual focus, you can zoom in, have zebras, focus peaking etc. Also does a nice focus stacking where you define the start and end focus points. The wifi works well if not crippled on the camera. The d750 and z's are fully open and work great. A mate has a d850 and this was a disaster. I can't speak for canon or sony, but believe they work ok. I forgot to ask, on your timelapse with 700 shots, was this on one battery or do you have external power ? How do you find the Z6 in this respect ?
Hi Richard, just having an other look at the time laps video, I am thinking about getting a faster lens for my camera, f2 or f2.8 I have the standard kit lens @ f3.5. I have an idea for you, with your slide, you could have one of the legs of the tripod under the motor this should give the system a bit more stability. "Waiting For Clear Skies" Robert
This is class! Thanks for all the info. How do you use the slideshow part of lightroom to make a timelapse? It seems to only allow one frame per second. Perhaps you've already done a video on this?
Thanks so much for watching. The slider has a standard 3/8 inch thread on the bottom. So I simply threaded it straight onto the tripod. I'm using a ball head on top of the slider to mount the camera.
I heard somewhere, and believe it could be throuth, that the frame rate is adjusted to fit the frequency used in the country. In Europe we use 50Hz, and they use 60Hz in the states. This helps the camera to get an even exposure when shooting indoors. (No flickering)
@@nightscapeimages.richard That's because of peoples pride and the cost of standardisation. For example you "Great Brittain nuts" drive on the wrong side of the road. Imagine the cost to standardise such a simple thing. Half of the cars in the world would had to be scrapped! And if the desition was made, because of the pride, it would probably end in a world war to decide what side to ride on !
As always, amazing videos Richard, a couple of days ago I went to the country side with no light pollution to capture the Milky Way, was a little hard to get the permission of the government to get there (for the covid) and I took pictures trying to apply all your recommendations and techniques 😁 and also took several pictures to make a time lapse. I have a couple of questions 1. There’s another way to warm the lenses? Here in the Andes the weather is very cold (at night it frost) I used a sock but it doesn’t work. 2. I’m just wondering if you will make a video talking about Milky Way panoramas, will you? Thanks for all your effort making Amazing videos, my best regards from Cusco Peru 👍🏽
Thanks so much for watching my friend. Lots of people use hand warmers wrapped in a sock over the lens. They work but in extreme cold weather may not last long. I am actually doing a video on milky way panoramas this week so hopefully you'll get something out of that one.
Love your work. Ive been looking for something to cast low level light during night time-lapses you mention the z96, Im curious to know how long you can run one for? I typically run a shoot between 6 to 8 hours.
Thanks for watching. You'll have no trouble running a Z96 all night and longer on a decent size Sony NPF battery. On that low level they last for days.
@@allaneastcoast Well it you use a very wide angle lens most of the foreground will be in focus. I've not ever used a static foreground image to focus stack and blend in with a timelapse. It could be done but a lot more difficult than a single exposure for sure.
Thanks for such a quick reply. I will research more and better yet experiment. That's part of it all. Also interested in the exposure ramping in camera capability and quality of the z6 Cheers from Canada 🇨🇦
Hey mate awesome video, been doing the googles and I can't seem to find any timelapse plus views. Looks like they don't make them any more? Any ideas on alternatives?
No I think it's been discontinued. I don't use mine anymore because the new mirrorless Nikon cameras are awesome without it. Happy to sell you mine if you want one.
Hi Richard, another brilliant tutorial. I can’t overstate how helpful these are to me, thank you! I have used LRTimelapse for editing daytime and day to night sequences for quite awhile although I have not yet shot a nightscape sequence. For video assembly and editing I prefer After Effects then Premiere Pro if I have multiple timelapse sequences for my video project. I visited the Timlapse+ Studio website but can’t make out what their product would add to my timelapse workflow. You obviously use both plug-ins, what are your thoughts?
Hey Tim, thanks for watching. I think LRTimelapse is a little more fully featured than Studio but Studio is a lightroom plugin so it makes the ramping process easy from within the lightroom program. I do render the video out via LRTimelapse however from Lightroom. I actually use Grass Valley Edius to do my video editing. I did used to use After Effects many years ago but mainly for compositing etc. Appreciate your comments.
That was really informative Richard thank you. Am not having much luck with panoramas of the arc of the milky way, mini panoramas or vertoramas work, but have only managed one successful full panorama. So maybe I will try a timelapse in the summer, because the arc is too high then. According to photopills the milky way core is now not visible until mid july
@@nightscapeimages.richard Southampton, uk, my friend said because we dont have true darkness, photo pills doesn't register it as viewable, if I want to photograph it, I will need to stack pictures. Which means I have to try and master sequator and Photoshop
Thanks very much for watching. With these time lapses I edited everything in Lightroom. I use LRTimelapse simply to render out the video file. There are lots of videos on youtube about LRTimelapse. The other software I mentioned in the video which is a plug-in to Lightroom is called Timelapse Plus Studio. This I use when doing day to night time lapses. See here: timelapseplus.com/pages/studio
I’ve seen most of your videos and how you use Sequator but my question is; do you always use the same steps in the program or do you change the procedure on different occasions?
Another great video thanks Richard, something to consider for later on . Quick question. When shooting time lapse do you still shoot in RAW ? 700 odd images must take an age to download to a laptop . Thanks again mate. Merv.
Thanks a lot for watching Merv. Yes I still shoot in raw as it gives the best results in post processing. It takes a little while to download but not too bad. Better than a couple of thousand wedding photos.
Awesome Richard! I've just done my first timelapse, I only have the Adobe basic package, can I get the lr timelapse to use with it, is it super complicated?
That's great Suzanne. You can download a free version of LRTimelapse but it's limited to 400 images. The paid version is expensive. You can use other software to render a timelapse sequence.
I know it’s a bit off topic but your camera slider sparked my memory. Do you ever use or have you ever experimented with star tracking mounts? They look easy enough to align with the Pole Star and then track the right assertion path usually getting trail free stars with 4 min exposures. Many have a half speed mode that lets you expose longer than not moving your camera at all while not moving enough to blur the foreground landscape. Just curious of your thoughts on these types of devices.
Thanks for watching Andrew. Yes I do have a star tracker and they work quite well but blending backgrounds and foregrounds is a challenge . .especially when there are lots of tree branches etc.
Hi Richard, thanks for this video, I’m just confused with regard to the foreground subjects and the trees. If the camera is focused to infinity for the night sky, how do you bring the foreground and trees etc into focus for the final time lapse? Are you shooting these separately then combining them? I’d love to understand this better..Many thanks
Thanks a lot for watching Sunny. I am shooting the whole scene at infinity focus. No blending at all. With a wide angle lens infinity focus is quite close. See this video. ruclips.net/video/lqYf2w_BAQ8/видео.html
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thanks so much for this. Honestly your channel is absolutely amazing, found it around a year ago and haven’t looked back. You are a very lovely gentleman and I thank you for sharing with us all. Hopefully I’ll be able to afford contributing some money toward this channel some day. Thanks again !
Super stuff. One question if I may with the slider. Assuming the slider takes 2hrs from end to end and that equates to say 300pics, are you limited to those many pics? I mean if you had planned 400pics what happens with the 100 balance pics for which the slider is now not moving
I have a couple of questions about the use of a lens warmer. I am somewhat unsure and nervous about a lens warmer over-heating my lens. How high should the heat setting be? Is there a time limit for use? Obviously a lens warmer is only used when required, however is there any possibility of over-use might damage the lens?
Hey Ivan, I don't use any sort of regulator on mine. I just plug it straight in to the battery. However If you put your hand on it, it's never very hot. Just imagine your lens in direct sunlight on the seat of your car . .I'm sure it would get a lot hotter in that environment.
Richard, have you tried doing a time-lapse using the time-lapse capability of the Z6? The only time-lapses I've done were done this way but I can see the benefit of editing each photo in lightroom too. When I let the Z6 create a time-lapse, it gives me a estimated movie length based on the time-lapse settings I chose but when the time-lapse is done, it makes a lot shorter video. I wonder if the Z6 doesn't take into account the longer exposure times?
Thanks a lot for watching Cory. No I haven't used the built in timelapse of the Z6. As I mentioned I usually like to do some post editing to enhance the individual images. Maybe your frame rate was set to 30 fps ..??? Just a thought.
Thank you for this weeks video on Time Lapse Photography. Great tutorial.
Thanks so much for watching Robert.
Beautiful work. I felt nature as I watched all your time lapses Thank you for all your work loving nature, John
Many thanks again John
Excellent video Richard, I really enjoyed that, hope you are keeping well!
Thanks so much for watching Martin. I'm doing ok.
Amazing !!! as always your generosity is truly appreciated... thank you for sharing your knowledge and beautiful art...
I'm really pleased that you like it my friend.
Today when I was watching you explain how to create time lapse videos, I could feel myself standing beside you in a "workshop" situation. Your videos truly are immersive as so many others have stated... & I was so inspired I went up to my roof & did time lapses... I have a lot to remember when I'm creating.
Excellent video Richard, many thanks for the fantastic tips!!
Thanks a lot for watching Thanos, really appreciated.
Superb work Richard, thank you.
Really appreciate you having a look.
Nice one. Really enjoying all these videos. Thanks!
Liked before I watch! Thank you for your great work to help us!
I very much appreciate that my friend.
Nice work Richard, loved the reflections in the creek, brilliant. Please keep this ongoing, I'm loving it and learning so much.
I'm really pleased you like it Francis, thanks for watching.
I've lost count on how many times I've rewatched your videos!
That's the great thing about youtube Kevin . .it's always there to look at again and again. Appreciate your support.
First of all Thank you very much for this amazing videos. Since I am in the field for almost a decade, but not at all a pro, also not even own a camera ( mostly worked with rented ones). Just now I got an entry level camera, and planning to do some experiments.
Am living in a labor camp in Abudhabi, UAE. I hope The desert around me will become a great location for such experiments I hope.
Thanks once again for the comprehensive and inspiring tutorial.
Thank you so much for watching Amesh. I'm sure you'll get some wonderful images out there in the desert.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thank you so much for the reply. I will try my level best.
Thanks Richard, all your videos are hugely informative, educational and entertaining. This current workshop series however is absolutely stellar ('scuse the pun). Thank you for your generosity - it's hugely appreciated.
I'm really pleased you're getting something out of the videos Richard, I really appreciate the feedback.
Hi Richard. Yet another awesome video. As always, I really enjoyed it. Thanks mate.
Really appreciate your comments as always Ivan, thank you.
Hello Richard, regarding frame rates for video.
Computers & smart phones operate at 60 fps, so any video clip created/recorded at 24 fps or 25 fps does not sync with the display of these devices. This causes video playback judder/stutter. For example when 25 fps video clip is played backed, because 25 isn't an even multiple of 60, to make 25 fps fit to 60 fps (25 fps is first converted to 30 fps, by after each 5 frames of video, a 6th frame is added that is a repeat of the 5th frame of video, then each frame is display twice on the monitor to fit 60 fps), Because each 5th frame of the 25 fps video clip is displayed for twice the length of time as each of the other 4 frames, this causes a stuttering effect during playback.
So for smooth playback on computers and smart phones etc, the video clip should be created/recorded at 30 fps or 60 fps. Also 24 fps Video causes less stutter than 25 fps Video.
Modern TV's, particularly TV's that have high display frame rates (ie 100fps/120fps or higher and that also support "true cinema", 24fps playback), these TV's can sync their display frame rate with the frame rate of any Video clip, thus video playback will be smooth and stutter free. So Video at 24, 25, 30, 50, or 60 fps will playback smooth on these TV's. (also PAL and NTSC has essentially become irrelevant of modern TV's)
Thanks for your very in depth and insightful comments Carl, really appreciate that. There is certainly a lot going on with the technical specs on this stuff that's for sure.
You are the man Richard. Thanks to your brilliant teaching methods, I’m going to try some time lapses. You’ve done all the hard work for me, so it should be easy! Much appreciated! 🙏😀👍
Haha, thanks a lot Nash ... I think you'll still have to jump a few hurdles but I'm happy to have helped.
WOW JUST WOW
Richard come on just WOW
So does that mean you like the video Jeff ...!!! Thanks for watching.
I appreciate your clear explanations and all the work you put into creating images with a strong impact.
I really appreciate your comments John, thanks so much for watching.
Thanks Richard for the Video, your time lapses are great, thanks for the lens warming detail
All good Dave
Another professional production full of pro-tips you are getting renowned for providing. I do like to watch a good time lapse, adding in more movement as you did with the car really does add a touch of finesse. I also liked the the time lapse going through daylight to night - great to watch.
Thanks heaps as always Three-phase. Your comments are very much appreciated.
Magic another very enjoyable vlog thank you Richard...😊👍🏻
Thanks so much for your comments James, really appreciated.
Hi, Richard. Another great tutorial, loving this series, please keep them coming. Great to see you published in NPhoto magazine too.
Thanks very much Jeff, really appreciate you watching. I haven't actually seen the NPhoto article yet.
A lot of time invested to set up/shoot/process these time lapses, but the payoff is dramatic! Thanks Richard!
Thanks so much for watching Bob, really appreciate it.
Hi Richard, Another informative video tutorial. I would be interested to see a follow up of this tutorial on your post processing methods and techniques. Keep going with these presentations as they are highly appreciated. Cheers Geoff Sharpe.
Thanks so much Geoff, I really do appreciate your encouragement and support.
brilliant as usual Richard
Thanks so much Phil
Excellent video, as always. This has now made me want to go out and have a go at a timelapse. I love the one with the out of focus stars behind the trike, that is a real beauty. This is one of those tutorials that I'll need to watch again, and take notes, as I enjoyed the visual experience of simply watching it this first time!! :-) Thanks again for the excellent content, Richard. You are, without doubt, a master of your craft.
You are very kind as always Simon, thanks again for watching.
Hi Richard,
Awesome and very helpful for me too 👌
I did also some timelapses with my Sony A7R3 and the build in intervalometer. Post processing with LR-Timelapse.
Hint: you can use aperture-priority with priority:
- fist auto adjust shutter to max. e.g. 15s
- adjust ISO to max, e.g. 6400
- slow adjustment sensivity, electronic shutter on
Flicker has been removed using LR-Timelpase 👍
Much easier than using QdslrDashboard to adjust exposure!
Thanks a lot for watching Siegfried. I have done a few time lapses using aperture priority but many camera light meters cannot work effectively in very low light conditions. Appreciate your comments.
True artist and a great teacher . I have learnt a lot from you. Much love 💌
Thank you so much for watching my friend.
Brilliant as always Richard !
Thanks so much for watching Mario.
This series is amazing great content your teaching skill is awesome thank you for beautiful photography content.
I'm so pleased you like the videos, thanks heaps for watching.
Super gorgeous! Thank you for the gr8 show! Love how you are doing these episodes. And definitely going to look for a certain print to buy. Hopefully a nice pano.
Thanks so much for watching my friend, really appreciated.
Another excellent video tutorial. I've shot a few nightscape timelapses, I've learned some new pointer, thanks much.
Really appreciate you watching William.
Very useful tutorial Richard. Thanks
Many thanks for watching.
Thanks for this inspiring tutorial
I'm really pleased you like it my friend.
Another brilliant video Richard i had to laugh about the Possum .I have timelapse plus view in transit to me so really looking forward to that and i already have syrp genie and mini genie and 2 sliders because i love shooting timelapses but never astro so something im going to learn .Keep up your fantastic work Phill
Thanks as always Phill. Wow, you have lots of good timelapse gear there.
@@nightscapeimages.richard yes i ve done loads in the past but not astro timelapses which will have to wait now because the nights are too light now and milky way invisible till middle of july
Hallo Richard,
thank you for the weekly dose of your knowledge and profesionally edited videos.
The "how to" of the day to night time change was the most informative part for me.
Can,t wait for next week.
Thanks a lot for your enthusiasm you share with others. You are a great guy.
Greetings Steffen
Thank you so much Steffen, really appreciated.
Hi. I've been fan of your timelapses from before, this is just like a cherry on a cake. Definitely separate images are better than baked in camera movie clip. Hope you can soon go out freely and create more astonishing pictures and timelapses for us- your followers Cheers Mr Richard!!!
Thanks Milorad. Yes the individual raw images will give you a far better result than the inbuilt video version for nightscapes. I do sometimes use the video version for daytime time lapse however.
Awesome video Richard.
I love the little trike time lapse and the last one where you can see the stars reflected in the creek, beautiful.👏👏👏
I may have to stop following you though as you're encouraging me to spend money I haven't got. Lenses, lens warmers, panel lights, a torch... now you've got me looking at bloody sliders 😂
Thanks for watching Ian, but I must apologise for sending you broke ... join the club.
You want to try astro photography, I am in the same boat every thing is so expensive, I would like to get an other lens for time laps, would like something a bit better than the standard kit lens. Cheers Robert
A super episode Richard with some beautiful sequences - I love the reflection of the stars in the water at 38:16. Now that we're allowed out and about here in the UK it's time I had a go at one of these myself....
Looking forward to having a play on the computer with the 'Old Ruin' 👍.
Good on you Paul, really appreciate you watching.
Richard, what you are calling interval is the dark time. Interval is from one shutter opening to the next shutter opening. The interval has two parts, shutter time when the shutter is open and dark time when the shutter is closed. a 15 second exposure with 5 seconds of dark time has a 20 second interval. Great Job as always
Thanks for your insight Steve. Yes and that's the way the internal camera intervalometers work .. but they often don't actually explain that very well.
Unbelievably beautiful 👌📸🏆
Thanks so much for watching Tony.
Another great video Richard, your passion is contagious and I'm glad Mr. Possum didn't wreck your slider shot
Thanks so much for watching mate, really appreciated.
Like them. I felt like one of them tiny little bright stars was me looking back at you with the biggest smile thinking this is so Fantastic, you made me feel emotional seeing that we all are just a speck of light in this big beautiful universe. I LOVE THEM. I know you are a professional but really really well done. some of your pictures and videos just tear down my stone walls and until seeing your pics and videos the only thing that gets to me is seeing my kids learn and grow so from the bottom of my strange feeling heart right now I say thank you again.
I'm really pleased you like the videos Darren, thanks so much for your very kind words.
I'm not a big timelapse guy, but i really enjoyed the lesson and will definetly give it a go some time. Thanks
Thank you so much for watching Patricia.
Another stonker of a video tutorial Richard. I learnt so much during this. Definitely will be trying this along with your star trails tutorial. Mate, well done and thank you so much for sharing the video and your valuable knowledge. Cheers 👍🙏
Really appreciate that Adrian, thanks heaps mate.
Amazing sequences Richard, love the one over the river and your older one with the trike was beautiful. No photo of the possum? Cheeky thing 😉
Thanks a lot for watching Kerry, the possum was well gone by the time I got to the camera.
Very informative, Thanks. And, you know who I am going to blame when I am tired and cranky after being out all night again - assuming weather in western Canada improves.:):):):):)
Thanks heaps Guy, sorry for putting you out into the cold again ...!!!
that is amazing video, i love it. i do love the old three wheels bike with out of focus milky way. Thank you for sharing :)
I'm really pleased you like it Patrick, thanks again for watching.
Very interesting video, I really want to start experimenting with time lapse, but I now realize that it is far more complex than what I first thought. I have so much on my to do already, I will have revisit this again at a later time. Thanks again for another excellent tutorial.
Good on you Todd. Timelapse can be quite complex but it doesn't always need to be. Appreciate you watching.
you don't fail to inspire with every episode of yours ,it would be helpful if you could also make a small part regarding the editing of these time lapses
Thanks a lot for watching. I edit these images in Lightroom the same as I would for single shots. Then I export them out of Lightroom as a video file.
Thanks so much for the excellent content found in this series as well as the rest of your videos! I've learned so much from them and can't wait to start applying what I've learned here out in the field. Keep it up! 😊
Really appreciate that Ryan, thanks so much for watching.
Hi Richard, There is a comment down below, a chap is going broke on photography equipment, I know exactly how it is, astro photography is expensive also, you can spend thousands on telescopes and ccd, cmos deep sky cameras for taking pics of nebulea star clusters and so on, then there's the mount to cary the scopes and the cameras etc. The audio plug on the warmers are common, we use warmers also on our scopes.
Any way I just wanted to say an other fantastic video, I will probably view it again, along with some of the others, time laps is on my to do list while I am out shooting the the night sky, but I am waiting for clear skies. ha ha
Cheers Robert
Thanks so much for watching Robert. I guess we have to spend our money somewhere .. lots of other things are more of a waste.
Lovely time lapse sequences Richard, and congratulations on another superb tutorial! The movement from the clouds and motion rails is quite mesmerising and looks very professional. Have recently purchased LR Timelapse and am very impressed with it. Will have a close look at the Timelapse+ offerings also. Many Thanks!
Thanks as always Jeff, very much appreciate you watching.
Excellent tutorial Richard.. only had time to get to 29 mins but can't wait to see the rest later.. brilliant
Thanks so much for watching Noel.
Perfect, as usual.
Thanks a lot Andrew
Wow!! Very interesting way to create time lapse. I need to watch couple times more this tutorial workshop along with your other videos about it. Love these subject. Thank you very much for share it with us.
I'm very pleased you like it Luis, thank you.
Wow that was brilliant, I'm not quite to tackle something this cool But one day I'll try it. Love your work mate. I love the stars reflecting on the water looks amazing.
Thanks a lot Brad, it looks a bit daunting but after a while you get the hang of it.
@@nightscapeimages.richard when I try it you'll be the first to know about it.
New intro, ripper mate!
Good on you Rodd . .that intro is just for my workshop lessons.
저두 타임랩스 좋아합니다.
정보 감사합니다.
I'm so glad you like it my friend.
I’m going to get a motorised slider for time lapses. Not sure to go with the Edelkrone or try out the new Rhino which is a lot cheaper & doesn’t require a finicky app or a constant firmware update every time you turn it on. 👍😀 Thankyou for the review Richard!
Hey Nash, in all honesty I wouldn't recommend the Edelkrone at all. There are just too many app drop outs for my liking . .and it's really expensive.
Nightscape Images Thankyou for your feedback Richard, I really appreciate your honesty. 🙏😀👍
@@nashhall694 All good mate
Thanks for the great series! I took my first night image a few days ago, and it wouldn't have been remotely possible without your tutorials. (Even used an ancient micro 4/3rd's camera, and it came out pretty solid.) Proper stuff, Mr. Tatti!
I'm so pleased to hear that Adam, really appreciate you watching.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Also, (though you might not *actually* care) to answer your rhetorical question about the US/world frame rate differences, it's because the USA's power runs on a 60hz frequency and Europe/Australia run on 50hz. In the 1930's all the way up to the mid-2000's, the power in home TV sets and their broadcast towers were all analogue, so that made it impossible to use anything that didn't fit in the 60hz power frequency evenly. Hence, 30fps in the US and 25fps in Aus/England.
@@coolkabe Yes that makes a lot of sense Adam. We run 240 volt power over here also. But even so .. why doesn't the world standardize these things ..???
I truly enjoyed every minute of this 40 minute video. Very informative, easy to follow full of knowledge.
At minute 29:51 i got freaked out, when you moved the light and that branch looks like a snake. Lol.
All the best to you.
Thanks for watching Khajak. It was too cold for snakes that night.
i am hooked on your content now buying more gear
Sorry to break your bank Grant .. appreciate you watching though.
Not into video yet, but thanks so much for sharing the amazing video clips and the subject knowledge. I know I'll always have a resource should I need it.
Thanks very much for watching Rory
Absolutely stunning images and video, a great tutorial, thanks for sharing. One question (if you see it) what bortle sky are you shooting from?
Thanks so much for watching. I mostly shoot in Bortle 2-3 skies.
Hi Richard. Thanks for another excellent video tutorial regarding timelapse. Could you please advise as to the type of battery that you use to power the lens warmers ?? and how long in time might a battery last ?? Cheers & many thanks mate.
Hey Michael, thanks again for watching. For the usb one I use jusrt a standard powerbank, similar to a phone charger. For the 12 volt one I use one of those small portable jump starters. The batteries last a few hours of continuous use.
great work.....
Thanks so much for watching, really appreciate it.
Thanks for the series of videos on Nightscape Photography and post processing. I have made leaps& bounds in my understanding of the importance of the latter. I have been chasing the lens warmers and can't seem to obtain a supplier. Where do you suggest I look to find something as dew is a major problem as you discussed.?
Thanks so much for your comments Geoff, really appreciated. I buy lens warmers on ebay or amazon. www.amazon.com.au/Compatible-Fujifilm-Telescopes-Condensation-Prevention/dp/B0873BTV6J/ref=sr_1_2?adgrpid=90113368794&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwr32BRD4ARIsAAJNf_2SmoXxK5GQ3JsRmP8iLty3tBYSX1xlIrwV8Z_H18uo1TliQmmS8O0aAiMqEALw_wcB&hvadid=414047100881&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9071496&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=7197078332433748293&hvtargid=kwd-648181607999&hydadcr=7914_13401&keywords=usb+lens+warmer&qid=1590672072&sr=8-2
So good mate 🤙
Thanks heaps Rob, glad you like it.
Outstanding sequences Richard really enjoyed watching them. The CTO gel you refer to could you post a link please.
Thanks heaps Carl, really appreciate you watching. www.ccslightsound.com.au/clear-color-205-filter-sheet-half-ct-orange
Nightscape Images thanks very much Richard!
Hello Richard, Thanks for your generous sharing of your videos and the Handbook PDF. I've done a bit of astrophotography but had not considered trying a timelapse. Now that I've watched this video I'm ready to give it a go. Or ready when I can get out of Chicago and into the dark. I have a question and a suggestion. In this video you show one of the lens warmers that you use but don't list them in your equipment list. From your comment in the video, sounds like you are more pleased with the one you don't show. Please list the details for that lens warmer and power supply.
In some of your earlier videos, you spend more time with the post-processing for kind of photo you're working on and less time "in the field". In this video, you spend most of the video in the field and go through the post-processing rather quickly. I wonder whether you'd consider publishing an Episode 7B to go into the post processing steps and the various apps you use in greater detail?
Thanks again. I'm learning a lot from each of your episodes during our "off season".
Thanks so much for watching Donald. I try to mix up the post processing videos as they take a lot of time to produce. Therefore the video's are quite long ... some like that others don't. The 2 lens warmers are similar its just that one is usb powered and the other isn't. I do show them both in detail in my first Q&A video from back in January. Post processing timelapse is the same as single shots its just that there are lots off them. Rendering the video is a different process however.
Love the shoot move shoot I have the ShooTools slider does an amazing job, Richard are you able to do a quick tutorial on the Timelapse + view in settings and how you set it up for a day to night Timelapse please.
Thanks a lot Rav. I will feature the Timelapse plus view in a future episode for sure.
Hi Richard, another great informative video, thank you. I was wondering if you have taken any Astro photos with your Panasonic G9?
Thanks so much for watching Vikki. No I haven't really taken any nightscapes with the G9 .. I usually use it for video. I actually will do a video about using that camera one day though. Thanks for reminding me.
Very impressive as always! Just wondered if you noticed much difference between using continuous movement and move-shoot-move.
Cheers! g
Thanks very much for your comments Graham. To be honest no I haven't really noticed any difference in the two methods.
that was brillant mate what can i say everyone below has said it but with the possum you should have used that DAME EDNA saying HELLO POSSUM he thought your lead was licorise cheers mate.
Haha, yes that's for sure Bobby .. thanks again.
Thanks for another excellent video , gives me some inspiration for my upcoming trip ( Vic and SA ). I have had some success with the Z6 on Aperture priority , Auto ISO and exposure smoothing . Not so lucky with the Fuji's though they give a lot of flickering .
Yes the Nikon Z camera's are excellent for timelapse. Have you seen this video ..??? ruclips.net/video/vgIUBKWjWI8/видео.html
Hello Richard!! Another fantastic video!! I really enjoyed watching you timelapses they were awesome. I never did a timelapse before, but with the examples you showed and how to use the motion control devices I'm ready to give it a go. What's your opinion on using a star tracker to make a timelapse? Thank you again for your hard work!!! Looking forward to the next video!
Thanks so much for watching Gary. I have used a star tracker to create a timelapse on a couple of occasions. Check these videos. ruclips.net/video/gdmE2mRuH3c/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/RUc5xHEnqeM/видео.html
Awesome tutorial
Thank you so much for watching.
Great video...question for you. Do you ever adjust the sky background and apply to all 500 frames as you do in your still shots?
thanks!
Thanks a lot for watching Andy, yes I do that all the time .. same as singles and just copy the settings across to all the images.
Hi Richard, thans for another great episode. As usual, I learnt a few new things. I had never heard of the Timelapse+ View and Studio. I had a look at the webpage for these and here are my feelings. The View Intervalometer looks great but costs 400$. I use and can recommend an App called dlsrdashboard, it costs 10$ and connects over wifi to canon, sony and nikon and can completely control camera. t has a special feature for night to day and does this automatically. It works perfectly with D750, Z6, Z7 but the wifi on D850 is flakey at best. There are workarounds for cameras without wifi ( like D600 ). Personally this is a better / cheaper way to go. The Studio program looks similar to LRTimeapse and costs about the same. In Europe this program is more or less the standard and much used, maybe the Studio program has advantages, as it is a plugin in Lightroom ?
Keep up the good work, looking forward to your next video.
Thanks a lot David. Yes I've seen dslrdashboard. I wasn't aware it did automatic ramping, I thought you had to keep changing the exposure. I don't trust wifi either on most cameras .. not to mention the battery drain. I think overall Lrtimelapse is more fully featured but I love the simplicity of the Studio program.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Yes, dlsrdashboard does everything automatically and works great, particularly at the price of 10$. You take a test shot at dusk, tell it the maximum exposure, iso and aperture and it does all changes itself, but you can override and tweak inbetween. The app can also control almost everything on the camera, auto focus, manual focus, you can zoom in, have zebras, focus peaking etc. Also does a nice focus stacking where you define the start and end focus points. The wifi works well if not crippled on the camera. The d750 and z's are fully open and work great. A mate has a d850 and this was a disaster. I can't speak for canon or sony, but believe they work ok.
I forgot to ask, on your timelapse with 700 shots, was this on one battery or do you have external power ? How do you find the Z6 in this respect ?
@@dhg1960 Thanks for that info Dave. Yes I took the 700 shots on one battery. The D750 has a better battery life than the Z6.
Hi Richard, just having an other look at the time laps video, I am thinking about getting a faster lens for my camera, f2 or f2.8 I have the standard kit lens @ f3.5. I have an idea for you, with your slide, you could have one of the legs of the tripod under the motor this should give the system a bit more stability.
"Waiting For Clear Skies"
Robert
Yes I think it's a very good idea to distribute the weight of the slider. Thanks heaps for watching.
Hey Richard, great video! How do you make the timelapse after clicking the pictures, which software to use?
I do the initial edits in Lightroom and then render out as a video from Lightroom by using LRTimelapse. lrtimelapse.com/
This is class! Thanks for all the info. How do you use the slideshow part of lightroom to make a timelapse? It seems to only allow one frame per second. Perhaps you've already done a video on this?
Thanks so much Michael. I actually downloaded a 25fps template from somewhere .. sorry I can't find the link at the moment.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thanks Richard I'll give that a go!
Brilliant video !!!! What mount did you use for mounting the slider to your tripod ?
Thanks so much for watching. The slider has a standard 3/8 inch thread on the bottom. So I simply threaded it straight onto the tripod. I'm using a ball head on top of the slider to mount the camera.
I heard somewhere, and believe it could be throuth, that the frame rate is adjusted to fit the frequency used in the country. In Europe we use 50Hz, and they use 60Hz in the states. This helps the camera to get an even exposure when shooting indoors. (No flickering)
Yes I believe you are correct Bob .. but I still wonder why the whole world can't have the same standards ..!!
@@nightscapeimages.richard That's because of peoples pride and the cost of standardisation. For example you "Great Brittain nuts" drive on the wrong side of the road. Imagine the cost to standardise such a simple thing. Half of the cars in the world would had to be scrapped! And if the desition was made, because of the pride, it would probably end in a world war to decide what side to ride on !
@@sidekickbob7227 Very true ..!!!
As always, amazing videos Richard, a couple of days ago I went to the country side with no light pollution to capture the Milky Way, was a little hard to get the permission of the government to get there (for the covid) and I took pictures trying to apply all your recommendations and techniques 😁 and also took several pictures to make a time lapse. I have a couple of questions 1. There’s another way to warm the lenses? Here in the Andes the weather is very cold (at night it frost) I used a sock but it doesn’t work. 2. I’m just wondering if you will make a video talking about Milky Way panoramas, will you? Thanks for all your effort making Amazing videos, my best regards from Cusco Peru 👍🏽
Thanks so much for watching my friend. Lots of people use hand warmers wrapped in a sock over the lens. They work but in extreme cold weather may not last long. I am actually doing a video on milky way panoramas this week so hopefully you'll get something out of that one.
Love your work. Ive been looking for something to cast low level light during night time-lapses you mention the z96, Im curious to know how long you can run one for? I typically run a shoot between 6 to 8 hours.
Thanks for watching. You'll have no trouble running a Z96 all night and longer on a decent size Sony NPF battery. On that low level they last for days.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Big thank you for the response.
Great video thanks !
Thanks a lot Allan
Interested if you have ever used a static foreground for DOF purposes??
@@allaneastcoast Well it you use a very wide angle lens most of the foreground will be in focus. I've not ever used a static foreground image to focus stack and blend in with a timelapse. It could be done but a lot more difficult than a single exposure for sure.
Thanks for such a quick reply. I will research more and better yet experiment. That's part of it all. Also interested in the exposure ramping in camera capability and quality of the z6
Cheers from Canada 🇨🇦
@@allaneastcoast I love the Z6 . .best camera I've owned.
Hey mate awesome video, been doing the googles and I can't seem to find any timelapse plus views. Looks like they don't make them any more? Any ideas on alternatives?
No I think it's been discontinued. I don't use mine anymore because the new mirrorless Nikon cameras are awesome without it. Happy to sell you mine if you want one.
Hi Richard, another brilliant tutorial. I can’t overstate how helpful these are to me, thank you! I have used LRTimelapse for editing daytime and day to night sequences for quite awhile although I have not yet shot a nightscape sequence. For video assembly and editing I prefer After Effects then Premiere Pro if I have multiple timelapse sequences for my video project. I visited the Timlapse+ Studio website but can’t make out what their product would add to my timelapse workflow. You obviously use both plug-ins, what are your thoughts?
Hey Tim, thanks for watching. I think LRTimelapse is a little more fully featured than Studio but Studio is a lightroom plugin so it makes the ramping process easy from within the lightroom program. I do render the video out via LRTimelapse however from Lightroom. I actually use Grass Valley Edius to do my video editing. I did used to use After Effects many years ago but mainly for compositing etc. Appreciate your comments.
That was really informative Richard thank you. Am not having much luck with panoramas of the arc of the milky way, mini panoramas or vertoramas work, but have only managed one successful full panorama. So maybe I will try a timelapse in the summer, because the arc is too high then. According to photopills the milky way core is now not visible until mid july
Thanks for watching Andy, where are you located again ...???
@@nightscapeimages.richard Southampton, uk, my friend said because we dont have true darkness, photo pills doesn't register it as viewable, if I want to photograph it, I will need to stack pictures. Which means I have to try and master sequator and Photoshop
@@andysuzierawlins5462 So are you saying that you don't get darkness in your UK summer ..???
@@nightscapeimages.richard not true darkness, look on clear outside for the uk
Is there is guide to the software you use doing the timelapse video with !
Thanks very much for watching. With these time lapses I edited everything in Lightroom. I use LRTimelapse simply to render out the video file. There are lots of videos on youtube about LRTimelapse. The other software I mentioned in the video which is a plug-in to Lightroom is called Timelapse Plus Studio. This I use when doing day to night time lapses. See here: timelapseplus.com/pages/studio
Hi Richard! Really an interesting episode. Are you goding to talk about Sequator in the near future?
Thanks so much for watching. I have discussed Sequator a fair bit in previous videos. Is there anything specific you'd like to know ..??
I’ve seen most of your videos and how you use Sequator but my question is; do you always use the same steps in the program or do you change the procedure on different occasions?
I would say i pretty much always use the same steps.
Another great video thanks Richard, something to consider for later on . Quick question. When shooting time lapse do you still shoot in RAW ? 700 odd images must take an age to download to a laptop . Thanks again mate. Merv.
Thanks a lot for watching Merv. Yes I still shoot in raw as it gives the best results in post processing. It takes a little while to download but not too bad. Better than a couple of thousand wedding photos.
Awesome Richard! I've just done my first timelapse, I only have the Adobe basic package, can I get the lr timelapse to use with it, is it super complicated?
That's great Suzanne. You can download a free version of LRTimelapse but it's limited to 400 images. The paid version is expensive. You can use other software to render a timelapse sequence.
I know it’s a bit off topic but your camera slider sparked my memory. Do you ever use or have you ever experimented with star tracking mounts? They look easy enough to align with the Pole Star and then track the right assertion path usually getting trail free stars with 4 min exposures. Many have a half speed mode that lets you expose longer than not moving your camera at all while not moving enough to blur the foreground landscape. Just curious of your thoughts on these types of devices.
Thanks for watching Andrew. Yes I do have a star tracker and they work quite well but blending backgrounds and foregrounds is a challenge . .especially when there are lots of tree branches etc.
Hi Richard, thanks for this video, I’m just confused with regard to the foreground subjects and the trees. If the camera is focused to infinity for the night sky, how do you bring the foreground and trees etc into focus for the final time lapse? Are you shooting these separately then combining them? I’d love to understand this better..Many thanks
Thanks a lot for watching Sunny. I am shooting the whole scene at infinity focus. No blending at all. With a wide angle lens infinity focus is quite close. See this video. ruclips.net/video/lqYf2w_BAQ8/видео.html
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thanks so much for this. Honestly your channel is absolutely amazing, found it around a year ago and haven’t looked back. You are a very lovely gentleman and I thank you for sharing with us all. Hopefully I’ll be able to afford contributing some money toward this channel some day. Thanks again !
@@sunnyrana4248 Thanks so much for your support Sunny
I think the frame rates were based on AC mains frequency. 50hz in pal countries and 60hz in ntsc countries.
Yes you are correct Andrew.
Super stuff. One question if I may with the slider. Assuming the slider takes 2hrs from end to end and that equates to say 300pics, are you limited to those many pics? I mean if you had planned 400pics what happens with the 100 balance pics for which the slider is now not moving
Thanks a lot Chetan. That has happened to me quite a bit. If that happens you'll have a segment of the sequence stationery.
@@nightscapeimages.richard so do you still process the stationary ones in the app along with the others or you discard these?
I have a couple of questions about the use of a lens warmer. I am somewhat unsure and nervous about a lens warmer over-heating my lens. How high should the heat setting be? Is there a time limit for use? Obviously a lens warmer is only used when required, however is there any possibility of over-use might damage the lens?
Hey Ivan, I don't use any sort of regulator on mine. I just plug it straight in to the battery. However If you put your hand on it, it's never very hot. Just imagine your lens in direct sunlight on the seat of your car . .I'm sure it would get a lot hotter in that environment.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Hey Richard, that puts my mind at rest, thank you. Cheers mate
Richard, have you tried doing a time-lapse using the time-lapse capability of the Z6? The only time-lapses I've done were done this way but I can see the benefit of editing each photo in lightroom too. When I let the Z6 create a time-lapse, it gives me a estimated movie length based on the time-lapse settings I chose but when the time-lapse is done, it makes a lot shorter video. I wonder if the Z6 doesn't take into account the longer exposure times?
Thanks a lot for watching Cory. No I haven't used the built in timelapse of the Z6. As I mentioned I usually like to do some post editing to enhance the individual images. Maybe your frame rate was set to 30 fps ..??? Just a thought.