Out of all the astro videos I've seen regarding lense choices, yours is the best, by FAR. You don't simply regurgitate technical specs from the manufacturer, but instead, you give personal experience and lessons learned. I love your channel. Bravo, sir!
Thank you for such an informative video. I received a 50 mm sigma art Lens for Christmas and I am trying to get a plan together to use it this weekend! Thank you so much
been a long time since I watched his videos. I just wanted to say that I love this person. you can hear the joy and enthusiasm in his voice in each video he makes. always so eager to help others by sharing all his knowledge. I know Richard you've heard it many times, but I'll say it again. You are a wonderful person. I just admire your work, each one of your photos looks so peaceful. and you've been my inspiration and indeed taught me a lot. thank you for your awesome content❤️❤️
I really appreciate your comment about the foreground being your subject matter, with the milky way framing it. That puts a whole new outlook on my nightscapes. Thanks so much. You are an inspiration.
Hi. ive just subscribed . this video was just ace. been using a Samyang 14 mm on a d7100 . now ive acquired the d750 and 20mm1.8 .not had the chance to use this combo for night sky but after watching this particular video I,m very excited to get out and give it a shot . thanks for sharing Richard
Hey Richard, if you ever get board and feel like experimenting and want to really challenge yourself, some night, try using a combination of lenses for the same shot! Say, put on a wide 14mm and take a few shots of the sky to stack, then swap on a 35mm for the foreground. Good luck with anything lining up though haha but I wonder is there's a combination of lenses out there where that might yield some sort of interesting results.......probably not. Then again if someone has some fast glass but it distorts and they don't want that but they had a kit lens, they could shoot at f3.5+ with it all easy for their foreground. I dunno why I'm thinking about such thing but hey. Who knows maybe the idea will lead to someone trying something and coming up with some new cool method for some reason, who knows.
Wouldn't it be neat for example to be able to shoot, say a 4 row 25% overlap square pano with a 50mm lens for the background. Set another camera on the tripod or just swap lenses and take the shot somehow knowing you're still within the same square of sky you just took, then take your whole foreground with say a 20mm with your light painting shots. Now you have the 50mm pulled in Milky Way that looks massive in all the shots you want, so long as you master and mark some sort of fixed marked out rigged pano setup, where all you had to do was swap on the pano head and nodal slide and fix your first shot, then one left, swing so many degrees, click for the bottom right, so many degrees up and snap the upper right, then the upper left. Even 5 shots each at 10 seconds wouldn't take too long and you can stack for high quality. Then bam, there's your big, pulled in 50mm sky for a 35mm foreground composition to easily fit inside of. Crazy idea or it might just work? I don't have any idea why it wouldn't....after some trial and error. Of course you'd need your rig well marked to set the camera when the 35mm is on it too but just imagine. I think you should try it.
Of course a layer mask on the foreground of the big sky shot so nothing weird bleeds through. Oh of course you'd have to make sure you aimed and took your square of the sky, well anywhere you want I guess, then take whatever portion of the sky you want out to put in back of your foreground. Just for that ability will be worth doing too as you could shoot anything you wanted and place your Milky Way core behind it haha.
It's an interesting concept but I'm generally not into composites with nightscapes. I've done something similar before when using a star tracker but I don't like spending huge amounts of time post processing these type of shots. PS: I've never got nothing to do either ..!!!
Great job. Your explanations are clear and much-appreciated. I shoot MFT and I was just getting ready to order a Laowa 7.5mm (= 15mm full frame equivalent). But after watching your video, I've decided to get the 9mm version instead. Note that I already own a manual 15mm for a more zoomed-in effect. I now believe that using these two lenses might be my best starting point for night photography.
20 Minutes of great value. Love your passion to not only create amazing images but your passion to share your image journey. Love your work. Truly inspiring
Thanks again Richard, you put some structure around the 'what' and 'why' to use different lenses. I liked using the longer focal lengths but didn't quite understand what it did to the outcome. You have made this so much easier to understand.
I'm so pleased to hear that Helen. Yes it does take a bit of "Brain Power" to work all this stuff out and that takes time. Looking forward to NZ in a few weeks.
Hello I started shooting the Milky Way with the kit lens of my Sony Nex6 16-50mm then when I bought the Samyang 12mm, it happened that I watched one of your videos shooting with different focal lengths so I gave it a try and shoot with a Helios 58mm and the results were just amazing as you said that you could touch the Milky Way since a focal length will bring it to you and you can see more details. I appreciate your work. I've learned a lot from videos. Many thanks from Algeria.
Thank You very much for your explanation! I have the Zeiss Batis 2.8/18mm and absolutely love it. I have used my Sony 1.8/55mm for pano's of the milky way (wished it was 50mm). Looking to purchase the Sigma 1.8/24mm art lens for my happy medium. Your explanation with visual confirmation of compression with longer lens's has helped greatly.
Very informative vlog Richard with a thorough explanation on when to use what lens and some wonderful images to back this up. I got out for a short while under the stars in Margaret River but I forgot to take a torch so was really annoyed at myself.
Thanks Richard, for a beginner like me this explains so much and so clearly. Convinced me to hold off with buying the Tokina 11-20 for my d5600 and just put in more effort with the kit 18-55 and 70-300 that I already have. 👍🏻
Even though I've been following you for a little while now, this video just popped up in my feed. I really enjoyed this video. I just purchased the 14mm Art and am really looking forward to using it. But I definitely agree that the larger focal lengths are really neat to play with. Like you said, when you get that 50mm shot right, it's REALLY good. Anyways, I know it's an older video, but I just wanted to let you know how much I enjoyed it. I also agree 100% with you. Which means I'll probably have to buy ANOTHER lens 😂. Thanks for making these video's. I can't wait for warmer weather to try out all the things I've learned from you. Thanks from Colorado.
Thanks so much for watching Brian. It's always good to hear what people think about these issues. There are certainly many variables and not one size fits all that's for sure. Appreciate your comments.
Thanks Richard. Came across your videos a few weeks back. Love your common sense approach and your passion. Currently deciding on the 20mm or the 14-24. Your observations have helped.
very informative Richard - I am looking forward to having a dabble with a variety of lenses just to see the different results without worrying. Always worth experimenting I reckon.
Generally, I don't do a night shoot unless I have a good foreground subject. Unfortunately, most of Texas is too light polluted to get good milky way imagery. I typically have to drive at least a hundred miles or more. On the subject of lenses, I shoot with a Tokina 12-24mm to get dramatic foreground subjects. However when I want to push my foreground back and capture more overall vista, my trusty Nikon 18-105mm kit lens.
hi mate this is another outstanding insight of what you can do i know i am a bit slow but you have taught me so much with how to do things so the seasons dont bother me here anymore yep we are spoiled downunder just so luvky keep am comin buckaroo cheers bobby j.
Excellent video as usual. I remeber reading online about ideal lenses and focal lengths for landscape and astro photography and there seems to be a consensus around the 21mm being the "sweet spot", in terms of some of the better quality lenses having almost no distortion, very little falloff, and sharpness corner to corner, still retaining a lot of field of view to capture both a lot of foreground and background in the scene, to make for a compelling image. I think the 20mm Nikon lens you are using was described as one of the best for the job, so i guess kudos to you for using it to produce your stunning images :)
Nightscape Images i was recently looking into some of the Zeiss glass, but it's too expensive and i can't justify the cost. Maybe i will get the 35mm you mentioned.
Hi Richard having watched most if not all your vlogs.. I’m just starting out with photography & what you have shown really excites me & this vlog has helped me in choosing a lens.. thanks
Great information well put together and timely as MW season begins for the Northern hemisphere. Thanks Richard for another great asset for the community.
Recently I have shot with my vintage Leica 35mm f2.8 and I have been pleasantly surprised at the quality of the images. Moreover, I can only agree with what you're saying about the different perspective and overall vibe the images get from using a longer focal length.
That's a great video, Richard. It explains perfectly the whys, hows and whens of using different focal lengths. I have an old 50mm f1.4 AFD lens, and after the comments you made regarding this focal length, and the low angle etc, I have a lone tree in mind for a night shot. Just need to work out my angles for the stars!! Thanks again for a great video, and a great channel.
Thank you your informative videos. Enjoy your enthusiasm for this subject. Will definitely be trying your suggestions. For cropped sensor cameras, what would you recommend as the maximum focal length?
Thank you so much for watching. I think anything between 11 - 16mm will be ok for APS-C sensor cameras. Maybe 18mm if it's a fast lens like the Sigma 18-35 f1.8
Very informative Richard. Nice to see the different range lens not alot of people would go for some of these focal lengths but you illustrate how awesome they look. And those timelapse were out of this world any chance you could make a video on how to do them and the gear you use? Thanks as always mate 🙏👍👍
Thanks a lot Gavin, really appreciate your comments. I feature time lapses in a few videos. See here: ruclips.net/video/7xXRZXiQndY/видео.html and here: ruclips.net/video/ZgkIigQJX6c/видео.html
Also liking the extra reach with the 35mm, glad I watched this video because after watching some of your others I was on the hunt for the 20mm . I'll see what i can come up with on my 50 f/1.8 after my amazon order for the flashlight and remote shutters arrive before I decide . Thank you for another informative video.
i could listen to you all day ,i have the nikon 20mm 1.8 which i use a lot for landscapes and also samyang 24mm 1.4 which ive just purchased and nikon 50mm 1.4 g which im going to use also for astro .keep up the good work and already looking forward to your next video Phill
I was a little jealous about your 20 mill since I watch your videos. Sony did listen to my prayers 😉 and came out with a 20 1.8. will See how this thing performs. Thanks for sharing!
I am looking forward to trying some night photography and recently purchased two lenses which I think will come in handy, the new Sigma 40f1.4 Art and its big brother the 105f1.4 Art. They are without doubt the sharpest primes I've ever owned, and I've owned a few. Will let you know how I get on.
Yes I've heard really good things about the Sigma 40mm f1.4 for nightscapes. A friend of mine has that lens and absolutely loves it. Of coarse the 105 f1.4 is a beast as well. Thanks heaps for watching.
Very informative once again Richard, I haven't used my 14mm for so long once I started with my 20mm, your right its the leaning that turned me off using it. I have the 50mm I carry it out every shoot I just keep forgetting to have a go at using it, looking at your images I really like the compression of the 35mm and 50mm. If I don't get clouded out again next shoot 50mm for sure. Thanks again for you content.
This is my favorite astro channel! Am wanting to get the Sigma 28mm 1.4 Art for night sky photography, and your discussion settles it for me. Plus it's more versatile for regular photography. I don't like distortion in the foreground, and so I think that'll be a perfect focal length. Plus can still use my 14mm for timelapse like you suggested. Another great video, thanks Richard. And by the way, your images are fantastic here as always!
Nicely explained Richard 👍 I've stopped using 11mm on my Tokina and instead use 14mm as I didn't like how small the milky-way was at 11mm and 14mm doesn't sound like much but it makes a big difference on my D7500, it's 21mm full frame equivalent I'm pretty sure.
Thanks Richard, as always very useful information. Besides the different apertures do you see any difference in the image quality results when using the the NIKKOR 14-24mm f/2.8G set at 20mm and the NIKKOR 20mm F/1.8G set at f2.8? I mean your preference for the NIKKOR 20mm is just a matter of having a wider aperture?
Thanks a lot for watching Gilson. Yes you are correct, I like to stop down the 20mm f1.8 often to f2.8 anyway but that is mainly to both sharpen the lens and also to lessen any coma that may be present in the lens wide open. That is of coarse the big advantage of using a faster aperture lens. The Nikon 14-24 f2.8 is a wonderful lens but it is operating wide open at f2.8 so I'd expect the 20mm f1.8 stopped down to f2.8 to be a little better and I think it is.
Another phantastic video! Thank you Richard! Will you be one of the first in Australia to buy the z20mm 1.8 when it hits the shops this month? I have the z35mm 1.8 and I love it. Cannot wait for the new z20mm....
Awesome video Richard. I'll put my hand up and say, yes I think you always have to shoot wide for astro. But seeing your amazing videos and results has opened my eyes. The compression you get from the 50mm is just awesome. I have the 50mm F1.8G lens. I'm definitely going to try different focal lengths this milky way season. Thanks so much for sharing your experience and knowledge mate, cheers. PS. Bet your new 20mm F1.8S lens on order will be the sweet spot.
Thanks heaps again Adrian, the 50mm f1.8G is a great all round lens and extremely light weight so it fits easily in the camera bag. Always appreciate your comments mate.
Very informative video Richard! For us DX folk, what would be the longest length lens you'd recommend? I've got the Tokina 11-20 f2.8, but haven't yet tried shooting the night sky at 20mm. I think my 50mm f1.4 would be way too long at 75mm FX equivalent. Is the 20mm f1.8 compatible with DX Cameras?
Hey Mick, all the full frame nikon lenses are compatible with DX. I think anything up to 35mm would be ideal for the DX. Obviously the 14-20 range is great.
Another great video Richard. Apologies if this question has been asked before. I also have the 20mm 1.8 lens which I find great and not only for night-scape photography. My question is I noticed in other videos that you shoot this lens a lot at 2.8, is this for coma reasons. Cheers
Thanks a lot for watching Jim. No problem asking this question. Yes I am pretty conservative with the lens and that's why I really like these fast aperture lenses .. if it was a native f2.8 I'd have no choice other than shooting it wide open .. yes you are correct by stopping it down the coma is very much reduced.
Hi Richard, thanks for yet another inspiring video. I'm currently considering adding a Fujifilm X100V to my kit primarily for making travelling a bit easier. Would this 35 mm equivalent f2.0 be able to add some decent nightscapes to the travel photos in your opinion?
Thanks so much for watching Thilkjer. That X100V looks like a very interesting camera. I can't see why it wouldn't work for nightscapes. I'd be keen to see how you go with it.
@@nightscapeimages.richard thanks for posting my friend. I for one truly look forward to your videos Richard. Great stuff. Very calming and always informative and entertaining.
Very informative video about your choice of lens in different circumstances. Is there a scenario where you would consider going longer than a 50mm focal length?
Thanks a lot mate. I have shot with the 85mm f1.8 but it's usually when I'm looking for something a little special .. like a bokeh star look and portrait.
I am wanting to purchase a lens for my D500 to do astro work, so this was very timely and informative. Per your recommendation I am thinking in the 16mm range? I think a good companion video(s) to this would be how and why you stack your exposures then followed by processing. As always your videos are very informative and take us to places we may never get to. Keep up the great work.
Thanks so much Vincent, really appreciated. I highly recommend the Tokina 14-20 f2 or the Sigma 14mm f1.8 for your D500. Both very good lenses. I have done a few videos comparing stacking and not. Check these: ruclips.net/video/dllp7BBvmPg/видео.html or this: ruclips.net/video/3uXHTmwcaFM/видео.html
Thank you very much for taking the time and making these videos. I truly do learn from them. I bought a Panasonic S1 kind of as my entry level camera and been learning, LOTS. Bought way more then I should have. But in another 5 or 6 years I should have a handle on it. My next move is to pick up a Sigma ART lens for it but just am not sure which one to get. I was really looking hard at the 18-35 f1.8 but now am seeing you really like the primes. I have the Panasonic 24-105 and a sigma 150-600. But am really excited about the milky way and stars. Whats your thoughts? And no I wont hold you to it LOL Again Thank you for the excellent content you put out. Maurice
Thanks so much for watching Maurice. The Sigma 18-35 f1.8 is a crop sensor lens and not suitable for your S1. I'd be looking at the Sigma 14mm f1.8 or the 20mm f1.4. I'd hardly call the Panasonic S1 an entry level camera though ...!!! Hope that helps.
@@nightscapeimages.richard holy cow Thank you. I am not sure why I had not realized that or just did not pay enough attention. Just stumbled across that lens today and thought now that could be fun. Thank you a million times!! Back to the sigma 20mm f1.4 ART for sure. Wow I am embarrassed now. See like I said. Learning LOTS. Thank you again.
The 20mm is my favourite Astro lens as well I’ve recently moved over to the Z6 myself and I’m holding out for the 20mm S lens I hope it’s as good as the DSLR version
Yes I'm with you there Craig. I've loved your night shots from the Great Ocean Road. I have the 20mm f1.8S on pre-order so I'll find out soon enough. Thanks heaps for watching mate.
Thank you Richard, I'm going for my first nightscape photography this weekend. With the M50, what you'll sugest for me to use? the kit lens (15-45mm f3.5) or the other lens I've the Yongnuo 50mm 1.8? Regards and keep up the good work!
As a general rule I'd go for the fastest aperture lens, but that 50mm on your M50 will be about 75mm full frame equivalent which makes it really hard to frame up a foreground. You can certainly use both lenses though.
Great video Richard! I have Samyang 24mm t1.5 for astro and iam going for samyang 14mm f2.8 (laowa 15mm f2 is expensive). For social media (instagram) 14mm is perfect because of crop factor on post. If i shoot panorama with 14mm will be ok? Using panorama i will avoid the soft edges and vignette from ultra wide lens. Star tracker is the best option for clean and detailed milky way shots. Why you dont use one?
Thanks for the comment. Yes you'll be fine using the Samyang 14mm especially if you're shooting with a crop sensor camera. I do have a star tracker and the sky images are very good from it .. but, for my particular method of creating my nightscape images which relies heavily of multiple light painted foreground shots the workflow is so much easier by using stacking rather than tracking. When tracking the camera is moving to follow the rotation of the stars, therefore the foreground will be blurred. So you need to be very good at photoshop to blend everything back together again to look like it should. This is a very understated part of using a star tracker that many people don't even mention in the conversation. It's easy enough with nice flat and hard surfaces but once you start adding trees and complicated foregrounds it becomes a nightmare.
Richard, this is fantastic. I’ve really been impressed with your images. The combination of Milky Way and light painting is beautiful. I just started doing a bit of landscape last summer, and am looking forward to trying this in my spring and fall (in Canada and don’t do much outdoor photography in the winter). I really had no idea what lens to use. I don’t have anything ideal. I have the Z6 but nothing wide and fast - I own the 24-70 F4 and 50 1.8S. Don’t think I can afford a 20 1.8 for a while, so at least now I have an idea of when, where and how I might use the 50. I appreciate the time and energy that you put into making these. You are informative and interesting. You have the image to show that you know what you’re doing. I’m looking forward the hearing and seeing more.
Well done Richard. I’m in the beginning phase of night photography so I’ve been using 14mm exclusively. Of course longer focal length mean shorter shutter speeds and generally higher ISO. I’d love to see a video discussing ISO and how much you do in post to reduce noise. Maybe the Nikon sensor handles noise better than my 5dmiv. As always, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
Thanks a lot for watching Dave. ISO is a very interesting subject but I have found that the Canon's generally like to be shot at higher iso's in camera rather than raising the exposure too much in post. The 5Dmk4 is one of the better sensors though. The Sony and Nikon are easier to shoot at a lower iso and raise it in post without a lot of noise gain. I probably prefer to stack for noise reduction now and in that case I'll generally shoot at the higher iso in camera.
Nightscape Images yes I don’t like to recover deep shadows in post because it just makes a mess of the image. Sequator is my go to app now after watching your videos. Just a brilliant piece of software.
@@dav14pawest Yes Sequator is brilliant Dave. My observation is that it's better to add light during capture as that helps to minimise the visible noise in shadow areas. A long exposure (or multiple long exposures) of the foreground will help with that also.
Fantastic video! Just wondering, how would your usual Bracket/Stack look like with the 50mm since you have such a shallow depth of field on your subject?
Your videos are great. Instead of saying what's right or wrong, u just shared what u does, shared ur experience. Not many people shot astro with a 50mm but u showed us it's possible and shared ur excellent photos as example. U just got another subscriber. ❤️
Thanks for this Richard. I have a Sony crop sensor camera and my widest lens is a Sigma 28mm 2.8, I also have a native Sony 35mm 1.8 which I actually prefer although it must be about 50mm full frame equivalent. However most things that are of interest are very low in the sky in the UK at this this of year so maybe I am just getting away with it at the moment! Also it has dawned on me that although a narrower field of view I will get longer star trails with the 35mm in a given time period. I don't think I can justify splashing out on a better full frame camera until I have got better in terms of skill. However for when when I do if you were starting out now and had to chose would you go with your DSLR or the mirrorless ? ( or will Nikon lock you up if you answer!)
Thanks for watching Ann. I'd go mirrorless if you can afford it. Nothing wrong with the DSLR's but they are going to be a dying breed soon enough. And from my experience the mirrorless lenses are far superior. I love the Nikon Z6, but the Canon R6 or Sony A7 series are wonderful also.
This adds a lot of insight Richard. I'm thinking I should try a 45 year old Nikon 50mm 1.8 that I have on my Z6/FTZ. You really have curious now. Awesome video as always.Cheers! Marty
Another great video and makes me want to finally shoot some night sky, perhaps with my 24mm Canon. My question is: what is the Milky Way season like in Australia? I am just west of Melbourne myself so great to see another Victorian here on YT.
Thanks so much for watching. The m,lky way season here in Australia is awesome. You can see the rising milky way core now in the eastern sky after about 2am. As the year progresses the core will rise earlier each day until it's then visible in the western sky from about July to November.
I am big fan of your work, and I wanna say thank you. Give me the suggestion of lens to add my collections, I already have the 14mm for my canon 90d but I’m trying to expand my collections, also, what wireless shutter releaser do you recommend. Thank you, waiting for your response
Thanks so much for your wonderful support. The 14mm is actually 21mm in full frame terms and a great focal length for your 90D. You could try something like a 24mm lens for those occasions when you want to zoom in a bit closer. I use and love the Yongnuo rf603ii wireless remote. www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1096382-REG/yongnuo_rf_603ii_c3_rf603_ii_wireless_remote.html
Lately I've been shooting every day landscape including street with the Tokina Firin 20mm f/2. I'm actually enjoying it much better than the Samyang 14mm f2.8. Maybe is like you said, it feels like the sweet spot.
Thanks for the info Richard, I am thinking about the next time in Australia I may try my hand at some narrower focal lengths for the Magellanic Clouds and your Southern Cross using either 85mm /f1.4 and or 105mm/f1.4 Sigmas using a Sky Tracker just have to figure out how to Polar align in the Southern hemisphere. Have G-day mate!
Thanks a lot Thomas. Yes polar aligning in the South is not as easy as what you are used to .. but I'm sure you'll get some good results with those lenses.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thanks Richard, I was planning for this September but may have to wait until April/May of 2021 but we will see. Thanks again! Tom
Thanks a lot for watching. Yes a lot of people love that lens. I did have it but could never get a sharp image from it . .I think my copy was de-centred. Sadly that's a Samyang/Rokinon issue.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Yes. I had a Rokinon 14mm F2.4 that was quite soft. Fortunately, B&H exchanged it no questions. The second copy is sharp. I'm anxious to try Canon's new R5 with a RF50mm or RF 35mm F1.2 lens for nightscape. (Perk of having a daughter who shoots weddings lol)
im liking the fly by wire, ive just bought a fuji and when you set it to infinity its perfect focus everytime, sometimes you just have to move with the times.
As a landscape photographer, I would use the longer to get the compression. So why not nightscape. Enjoy your channel very much has enhanced my knowledge and photos greatly. Thanks
Most underrated photography channel
I'm really pleased you like the channel Dexter
Out of all the astro videos I've seen regarding lense choices, yours is the best, by FAR. You don't simply regurgitate technical specs from the manufacturer, but instead, you give personal experience and lessons learned. I love your channel. Bravo, sir!
I very much appreciate your comments Ed. I'm not particularly interested in technical specs . .it's all about handling and performance.
Thank you for such an informative video. I received a 50 mm sigma art Lens for Christmas and I am trying to get a plan together to use it this weekend! Thank you so much
That's fantastic, thanks so much for watching.
been a long time since I watched his videos. I just wanted to say that I love this person. you can hear the joy and enthusiasm in his voice in each video he makes. always so eager to help others by sharing all his knowledge. I know Richard you've heard it many times, but I'll say it again. You are a wonderful person. I just admire your work, each one of your photos looks so peaceful. and you've been my inspiration and indeed taught me a lot. thank you for your awesome content❤️❤️
Thank you so much my friend, I really appreciate your very kind words of encouragement.
I really appreciate your comment about the foreground being your subject matter, with the milky way framing it. That puts a whole new outlook on my nightscapes. Thanks so much. You are an inspiration.
I'm really pleased you like the video shastapaul, thanks for watching.
Nice lullaby to my ears listening to your great information ! Very good 👍👍👍😍😍😍
Thank you Carole, really appreciate that.
I am new to night photography so I very much appreciate these videos. Invaluable insights, well taught. Thanks so very much
I'm really pleased you like it, thanks so much.
beautiful photos richard,great video we always hang out to see what comes next,thank you
Many thanks indeed scroopy, really appreciate you watching.
Excellent info as usual mate. I am seriously thinking of picking up a 20mm 1.8 myself now.
Thanks a lot Tim. I love the 20mm
Thanks again for another very informative video. Looking forward to the next one!
Thanks so much for watching Peter, really appreciate it.
Hi. ive just subscribed . this video was just ace. been using a Samyang 14 mm on a d7100 . now ive acquired the d750 and 20mm1.8 .not had the chance to use this combo for night sky but after watching this particular video I,m very excited to get out and give it a shot . thanks for sharing Richard
Thanks a lot Gavin. You'll love the D750 and 20mm .. Take care.
Another fantastic and very informative video Richard, Thank you.
Thanks heaps Brian, really appreciated.
Hey Richard, if you ever get board and feel like experimenting and want to really challenge yourself, some night, try using a combination of lenses for the same shot! Say, put on a wide 14mm and take a few shots of the sky to stack, then swap on a 35mm for the foreground. Good luck with anything lining up though haha but I wonder is there's a combination of lenses out there where that might yield some sort of interesting results.......probably not. Then again if someone has some fast glass but it distorts and they don't want that but they had a kit lens, they could shoot at f3.5+ with it all easy for their foreground. I dunno why I'm thinking about such thing but hey. Who knows maybe the idea will lead to someone trying something and coming up with some new cool method for some reason, who knows.
Wouldn't it be neat for example to be able to shoot, say a 4 row 25% overlap square pano with a 50mm lens for the background. Set another camera on the tripod or just swap lenses and take the shot somehow knowing you're still within the same square of sky you just took, then take your whole foreground with say a 20mm with your light painting shots. Now you have the 50mm pulled in Milky Way that looks massive in all the shots you want, so long as you master and mark some sort of fixed marked out rigged pano setup, where all you had to do was swap on the pano head and nodal slide and fix your first shot, then one left, swing so many degrees, click for the bottom right, so many degrees up and snap the upper right, then the upper left. Even 5 shots each at 10 seconds wouldn't take too long and you can stack for high quality. Then bam, there's your big, pulled in 50mm sky for a 35mm foreground composition to easily fit inside of. Crazy idea or it might just work? I don't have any idea why it wouldn't....after some trial and error. Of course you'd need your rig well marked to set the camera when the 35mm is on it too but just imagine. I think you should try it.
Of course a layer mask on the foreground of the big sky shot so nothing weird bleeds through. Oh of course you'd have to make sure you aimed and took your square of the sky, well anywhere you want I guess, then take whatever portion of the sky you want out to put in back of your foreground. Just for that ability will be worth doing too as you could shoot anything you wanted and place your Milky Way core behind it haha.
It's an interesting concept but I'm generally not into composites with nightscapes. I've done something similar before when using a star tracker but I don't like spending huge amounts of time post processing these type of shots. PS: I've never got nothing to do either ..!!!
Great job. Your explanations are clear and much-appreciated. I shoot MFT and I was just getting ready to order a Laowa 7.5mm (= 15mm full frame equivalent). But after watching your video, I've decided to get the 9mm version instead. Note that I already own a manual 15mm for a more zoomed-in effect. I now believe that using these two lenses might be my best starting point for night photography.
Thanks so much for watching Lang. I'm sure you'll get excellent results with your setup. Take care.
20 Minutes of great value. Love your passion to not only create amazing images but your passion to share your image journey. Love your work. Truly inspiring
Thanks so much for watching Lee, really appreciate it.
Thanks again Richard, you put some structure around the 'what' and 'why' to use different lenses. I liked using the longer focal lengths but didn't quite understand what it did to the outcome. You have made this so much easier to understand.
I'm so pleased to hear that Helen. Yes it does take a bit of "Brain Power" to work all this stuff out and that takes time. Looking forward to NZ in a few weeks.
Your videos are always full of useful information and this one is no exception! Thanks again for all the hard work you put into these video.
Really appreciate your support Bryan, thanks again.
I love your videos, they are a gift to us. Thanks so much Richard! Regards, Marios
I'm really pleased you like them, thanks for watching Marios.
Very detailed telling what lense to be used, why and when... Thumps up!
Thanks so much for watching, really appreciated.
Hello
I started shooting the Milky Way with the kit lens of my Sony Nex6 16-50mm then when I bought the Samyang 12mm, it happened that I watched one of your videos shooting with different focal lengths so I gave it a try and shoot with a Helios 58mm and the results were just amazing as you said that you could touch the Milky Way since a focal length will bring it to you and you can see more details.
I appreciate your work. I've learned a lot from videos. Many thanks from Algeria.
I'm really pleased you are enjoying the videos all the way from Algeria .. thanks so much for the comments.
Another good information video. Right up my alley on what I am trying to do myself with my variety of glass.
As always I appreciate your insight Spence, thanks again.
Very informative and now I’m motivated to buy a 35mm or 50mm for night sky compositions!
Thanks for watching Richard, there are quite a few good ones around.
Thank You very much for your explanation! I have the Zeiss Batis 2.8/18mm and absolutely love it. I have used my Sony 1.8/55mm for pano's of the milky way (wished it was 50mm). Looking to purchase the Sigma 1.8/24mm art lens for my happy medium. Your explanation with visual confirmation of compression with longer lens's has helped greatly.
Thanks so much for watching Ken, really appreciate that.
Very informative vlog Richard with a thorough explanation on when to use what lens and some wonderful images to back this up. I got out for a short while under the stars in Margaret River but I forgot to take a torch so was really annoyed at myself.
Thanks heaps for watching Carl. The torch is probably the last thing you'd want to forget .. never mind.
Thanks Richard, for a beginner like me this explains so much and so clearly. Convinced me to hold off with buying the Tokina 11-20 for my d5600 and just put in more effort with the kit 18-55 and 70-300 that I already have. 👍🏻
Thanks for watching. my friend. I'm glad it's helpful.
Great video once again. Great explanation on how and when to use different focal lengths. Keep up with good with work Mr Richard. Cheers!
Really appreciate you watching again Milorad.
@@nightscapeimages.richard It was pleasure as always!
Thanks for another great video Richard you have me thinking hard on my next lens .
That's always a good thing Steve. We often just do what everyone else does without giving it much thought. Appreciate you watching.
Great video again! Always new things to learn from you.
I'm always pleased to hear that my friend. Thanks for watching.
Even though I've been following you for a little while now, this video just popped up in my feed. I really enjoyed this video. I just purchased the 14mm Art and am really looking forward to using it. But I definitely agree that the larger focal lengths are really neat to play with. Like you said, when you get that 50mm shot right, it's REALLY good. Anyways, I know it's an older video, but I just wanted to let you know how much I enjoyed it. I also agree 100% with you. Which means I'll probably have to buy ANOTHER lens 😂. Thanks for making these video's. I can't wait for warmer weather to try out all the things I've learned from you. Thanks from Colorado.
Thanks so much for watching Brian. It's always good to hear what people think about these issues. There are certainly many variables and not one size fits all that's for sure. Appreciate your comments.
Thanks Richard. Came across your videos a few weeks back. Love your common sense approach and your passion. Currently deciding on the 20mm or the 14-24. Your observations have helped.
I'm pleased to be of assistance, thanks for watching.
Thank you.
Thanks for watching
Outstanding presentation! Thank you 🙏
Thanks so much for watching GaWajn, really appreciate it.
Very interesting and informative video!!! You changed also my mind about what I "need" for nice shoots of the night sky. Thank you so much 😊👍
Thank you so much for watching Luise, I really appreciate that.
Magic,great to see you in Australian Photography magazine well done very much enjoyed.....😊👍🏻
Thanks a lot James, appreciate you watching.
Thanks. Not some things I have tried....yet. Helps with inspiration. Maybe I will try my 24-70 f2.8.
I think that lens will serve you very well Guy. Thanks heaps for watching.
best videos ever ! Thank you Richard for your hard work.
I'm so pleased you like it my friend. Thanks for the comments.
very informative Richard - I am looking forward to having a dabble with a variety of lenses just to see the different results without worrying. Always worth experimenting I reckon.
Yes I think you are right, thanks a lot for watching.
I learned a ton of information from this video! Thank you!
I'm really pleased you found it interesting Ralph, thanks so much for watching.
Generally, I don't do a night shoot unless I have a good foreground subject. Unfortunately, most of Texas is too light polluted to get good milky way imagery. I typically have to drive at least a hundred miles or more. On the subject of lenses, I shoot with a Tokina 12-24mm to get dramatic foreground subjects. However when I want to push my foreground back and capture more overall vista, my trusty Nikon 18-105mm kit lens.
Thanks very much for watching. How do you find the Tokina 12-24 f4 shooting the stars ..???
hi mate this is another outstanding insight of what you can do i know i am a bit slow but you have taught me so much with how to do things so the seasons dont bother me here anymore yep we are spoiled downunder just so luvky keep am comin buckaroo cheers bobby j.
Really appreciate your comments Bob as per usual. Thanks heaps mate.
Excellent tutorial, like always
Thanks very much for having a look Monika
As always .great wisdom in the lens and nightscape images matters.. thank you !!
Thanks again Luis, always very much appreciate your comments.
Excellent video as usual. I remeber reading online about ideal lenses and focal lengths for landscape and astro photography and there seems to be a consensus around the 21mm being the "sweet spot", in terms of some of the better quality lenses having almost no distortion, very little falloff, and sharpness corner to corner, still retaining a lot of field of view to capture both a lot of foreground and background in the scene, to make for a compelling image. I think the 20mm Nikon lens you are using was described as one of the best for the job, so i guess kudos to you for using it to produce your stunning images :)
Thanks for your comments. It's a shame that Canon don't make a fast aperture 20mm. I see that Sony has just released one.
Nightscape Images i was recently looking into some of the Zeiss glass, but it's too expensive and i can't justify the cost. Maybe i will get the 35mm you mentioned.
@@aerozg It's a good lens. Sigma also make a 20mm f1.4 for Canon
Hi Richard having watched most if not all your vlogs.. I’m just starting out with photography & what you have shown really excites me & this vlog has helped me in choosing a lens.. thanks
Thanks so much for the comments Kev, really pleased you like the videos.
Great information well put together and timely as MW season begins for the Northern hemisphere. Thanks Richard for another great asset for the community.
I'm really pleased you like the video Steve, thanks also for the comment.
Recently I have shot with my vintage Leica 35mm f2.8 and I have been pleasantly surprised at the quality of the images. Moreover, I can only agree with what you're saying about the different perspective and overall vibe the images get from using a longer focal length.
Thanks a lot Matt. Yes I love those lenses.
Thanks again Richard
Thank you for watching Trevor.
That's a great video, Richard. It explains perfectly the whys, hows and whens of using different focal lengths. I have an old 50mm f1.4 AFD lens, and after the comments you made regarding this focal length, and the low angle etc, I have a lone tree in mind for a night shot. Just need to work out my angles for the stars!! Thanks again for a great video, and a great channel.
Thanks so much for your kind comments Simon. The 50 f1.4 will be great.
Thank you your informative videos. Enjoy your enthusiasm for this subject. Will definitely be trying your suggestions. For cropped sensor cameras, what would you recommend as the maximum focal length?
Thank you so much for watching. I think anything between 11 - 16mm will be ok for APS-C sensor cameras. Maybe 18mm if it's a fast lens like the Sigma 18-35 f1.8
Very informative Richard. Nice to see the different range lens not alot of people would go for some of these focal lengths but you illustrate how awesome they look. And those timelapse were out of this world any chance you could make a video on how to do them and the gear you use? Thanks as always mate 🙏👍👍
Thanks a lot Gavin, really appreciate your comments. I feature time lapses in a few videos. See here: ruclips.net/video/7xXRZXiQndY/видео.html and here: ruclips.net/video/ZgkIigQJX6c/видео.html
@@nightscapeimages.richard thanks mate il check them out shortly 👍👍
I love the look of the long (35 and 50mm) images! Really an appealing part of your portfolio; they stand out from the "usual" for sure.
Thanks so much for watching, really appreciate your comments.
Also liking the extra reach with the 35mm, glad I watched this video because after watching some of your others I was on the hunt for the 20mm . I'll see what i can come up with on my 50 f/1.8 after my amazon order for the flashlight and remote shutters arrive before I decide . Thank you for another informative video.
I'm really pleased to help Tammy.
What a great video! I have learned so much and your images are inspiring! Thank you!
Thanks so much for watching Robin
i could listen to you all day ,i have the nikon 20mm 1.8 which i use a lot for landscapes and also samyang 24mm 1.4 which ive just purchased and nikon 50mm 1.4 g which im going to use also for astro .keep up the good work and already looking forward to your next video Phill
Really appreciate that Phill, I'm not sure I could listen to myself all day ...!!! It looks like you're well setup for the milky way months ahead.
I was a little jealous about your 20 mill since I watch your videos. Sony did listen to my prayers 😉 and came out with a 20 1.8. will See how this thing performs. Thanks for sharing!
I think the new Sony 20mm f1.8 will be a wonderful lens.
I am looking forward to trying some night photography and recently purchased two lenses which I think will come in handy, the new Sigma 40f1.4 Art and its big brother the 105f1.4 Art. They are without doubt the sharpest primes I've ever owned, and I've owned a few. Will let you know how I get on.
Yes I've heard really good things about the Sigma 40mm f1.4 for nightscapes. A friend of mine has that lens and absolutely loves it. Of coarse the 105 f1.4 is a beast as well. Thanks heaps for watching.
Another useful tips on choice of lenses. I must try using my other longer lenses one of these days. Thanks!
Thanks a lot for watching Raymond
Very informative once again Richard, I haven't used my 14mm for so long once I started with my 20mm, your right its the leaning that turned me off using it. I have the 50mm I carry it out every shoot I just keep forgetting to have a go at using it, looking at your images I really like the compression of the 35mm and 50mm. If I don't get clouded out again next shoot 50mm for sure. Thanks again for you content.
Thanks so much for watching Brett. Yes I love the compression also.
As always very well explained. Thanks a lot!
You're welcome my friend.
Another awesome video! I'm now going to look into getting a 20mm lens for this years Milky Way season! Next year; I'm going to get 35mm lens.
Good on you George, you won't be disappointed with the 20mm.
This is my favorite astro channel! Am wanting to get the Sigma 28mm 1.4 Art for night sky photography, and your discussion settles it for me. Plus it's more versatile for regular photography. I don't like distortion in the foreground, and so I think that'll be a perfect focal length. Plus can still use my 14mm for timelapse like you suggested. Another great video, thanks Richard. And by the way, your images are fantastic here as always!
Thanks so much for watching Steve. I really appreciate your support.
*Another great film! Thanks for sharing ! like Natalya*
Thanks heaps for watching Natalya, really appreciate it.
I am wondering about this exact question now, this video is very useful 👍👍
I'm really pleased you found it useful Ken, thanks so much for watching.
Nicely explained Richard 👍 I've stopped using 11mm on my Tokina and instead use 14mm as I didn't like how small the milky-way was at 11mm and 14mm doesn't sound like much but it makes a big difference on my D7500, it's 21mm full frame equivalent I'm pretty sure.
Yes that's correct Keith. I think it's good to try new things, appreciate you watching as usual.
Great videos as always, just ordered the Sony fe 20mm f1.8, cant wait to get out with it this April when the milky-way is visible here in the UK.
That looks like a wonderful lens Stephen, I'm sure you'll go well with it.
Thanks Richard, as always very useful information. Besides the different apertures do you see any difference in the image quality results when using the the NIKKOR 14-24mm f/2.8G set at 20mm and the NIKKOR 20mm F/1.8G set at f2.8? I mean your preference for the NIKKOR 20mm is just a matter of having a wider aperture?
Thanks a lot for watching Gilson. Yes you are correct, I like to stop down the 20mm f1.8 often to f2.8 anyway but that is mainly to both sharpen the lens and also to lessen any coma that may be present in the lens wide open. That is of coarse the big advantage of using a faster aperture lens. The Nikon 14-24 f2.8 is a wonderful lens but it is operating wide open at f2.8 so I'd expect the 20mm f1.8 stopped down to f2.8 to be a little better and I think it is.
Hi Richard, Great video, mate. I must say, I love my 12mm f1.4.
Thanks so much Ivan. I'm guessing you may be using micro 4/3rds system ..??
@@nightscapeimages.richard Definitely. I have an Olympus EM1 MK2. A brilliant camera.
Very informative. I love to see you working or just talking. very
inspiring. Thank you Richard
Very kind of you to say Tobi, thanks heaps for the comments.
Another phantastic video! Thank you Richard! Will you be one of the first in Australia to buy the z20mm 1.8 when it hits the shops this month? I have the z35mm 1.8 and I love it. Cannot wait for the new z20mm....
Yes I hope so Torsten, I have it on order as we speak. Thanks again for watching.
That was a very interesting video,
I have always wondered why you use the lenses you use for each photo.
Awesome video mate I got a lot out of it.
Thanks heaps Brad, really pleased you liked it.
Great video Richard!
Thanks so much for watching Adrian
Awesome video Richard. I'll put my hand up and say, yes I think you always have to shoot wide for astro. But seeing your amazing videos and results has opened my eyes. The compression you get from the 50mm is just awesome. I have the 50mm F1.8G lens. I'm definitely going to try different focal lengths this milky way season. Thanks so much for sharing your experience and knowledge mate, cheers. PS. Bet your new 20mm F1.8S lens on order will be the sweet spot.
Thanks heaps again Adrian, the 50mm f1.8G is a great all round lens and extremely light weight so it fits easily in the camera bag. Always appreciate your comments mate.
Very informative video Richard! For us DX folk, what would be the longest length lens you'd recommend? I've got the Tokina 11-20 f2.8, but haven't yet tried shooting the night sky at 20mm. I think my 50mm f1.4 would be way too long at 75mm FX equivalent. Is the 20mm f1.8 compatible with DX Cameras?
Hey Mick, all the full frame nikon lenses are compatible with DX. I think anything up to 35mm would be ideal for the DX. Obviously the 14-20 range is great.
Another great video Richard.
Apologies if this question has been asked before. I also have the 20mm 1.8 lens which I find great and not only for night-scape photography. My question is I noticed in other videos that you shoot this lens a lot at 2.8, is this for coma reasons. Cheers
Thanks a lot for watching Jim. No problem asking this question. Yes I am pretty conservative with the lens and that's why I really like these fast aperture lenses .. if it was a native f2.8 I'd have no choice other than shooting it wide open .. yes you are correct by stopping it down the coma is very much reduced.
Great information, and beautiful images! Thank you!
Thanks so much Veronica, really appreciate that.
Hi Richard, thanks for yet another inspiring video. I'm currently considering adding a Fujifilm X100V to my kit primarily for making travelling a bit easier. Would this 35 mm equivalent f2.0 be able to add some decent nightscapes to the travel photos in your opinion?
Thanks so much for watching Thilkjer. That X100V looks like a very interesting camera. I can't see why it wouldn't work for nightscapes. I'd be keen to see how you go with it.
Thanks ,grabbed my m50 and tried different focal length on loungewall , l learnt something
Great video cthanks
Thanks a lot Phillip
Whoa - new setup alert!
Thanks heaps for watching my friend.
@@nightscapeimages.richard thanks for posting my friend. I for one truly look forward to your videos Richard. Great stuff. Very calming and always informative and entertaining.
Very informative video about your choice of lens in different circumstances. Is there a scenario where you would consider going longer than a 50mm focal length?
Thanks a lot mate. I have shot with the 85mm f1.8 but it's usually when I'm looking for something a little special .. like a bokeh star look and portrait.
I am wanting to purchase a lens for my D500 to do astro work, so this was very timely and informative. Per your recommendation I am thinking in the 16mm range? I think a good companion video(s) to this would be how and why you stack your exposures then followed by processing. As always your videos are very informative and take us to places we may never get to. Keep up the great work.
Thanks so much Vincent, really appreciated. I highly recommend the Tokina 14-20 f2 or the Sigma 14mm f1.8 for your D500. Both very good lenses. I have done a few videos comparing stacking and not. Check these: ruclips.net/video/dllp7BBvmPg/видео.html or this: ruclips.net/video/3uXHTmwcaFM/видео.html
Thank you very much for taking the time and making these videos. I truly do learn from them. I bought a Panasonic S1 kind of as my entry level camera and been learning, LOTS. Bought way more then I should have. But in another 5 or 6 years I should have a handle on it. My next move is to pick up a Sigma ART lens for it but just am not sure which one to get. I was really looking hard at the 18-35 f1.8 but now am seeing you really like the primes. I have the Panasonic 24-105 and a sigma 150-600. But am really excited about the milky way and stars. Whats your thoughts? And no I wont hold you to it LOL Again Thank you for the excellent content you put out. Maurice
Thanks so much for watching Maurice. The Sigma 18-35 f1.8 is a crop sensor lens and not suitable for your S1. I'd be looking at the Sigma 14mm f1.8 or the 20mm f1.4. I'd hardly call the Panasonic S1 an entry level camera though ...!!! Hope that helps.
@@nightscapeimages.richard holy cow Thank you. I am not sure why I had not realized that or just did not pay enough attention. Just stumbled across that lens today and thought now that could be fun. Thank you a million times!! Back to the sigma 20mm f1.4 ART for sure. Wow I am embarrassed now. See like I said. Learning LOTS. Thank you again.
@@mauriceaustin3442 No need for embarrassment .. it's a mine field out there.
The 20mm is my favourite Astro lens as well
I’ve recently moved over to the Z6 myself and I’m holding out for the 20mm S lens I hope it’s as good as the DSLR version
Yes I'm with you there Craig. I've loved your night shots from the Great Ocean Road. I have the 20mm f1.8S on pre-order so I'll find out soon enough. Thanks heaps for watching mate.
Thank you Richard, I'm going for my first nightscape photography this weekend. With the M50, what you'll sugest for me to use? the kit lens (15-45mm f3.5) or the other lens I've the Yongnuo 50mm 1.8? Regards and keep up the good work!
As a general rule I'd go for the fastest aperture lens, but that 50mm on your M50 will be about 75mm full frame equivalent which makes it really hard to frame up a foreground. You can certainly use both lenses though.
Great video Richard! I have Samyang 24mm t1.5 for astro and iam going for samyang 14mm f2.8 (laowa 15mm f2 is expensive). For social media (instagram) 14mm is perfect because of crop factor on post. If i shoot panorama with 14mm will be ok? Using panorama i will avoid the soft edges and vignette from ultra wide lens.
Star tracker is the best option for clean and detailed milky way shots. Why you dont use one?
Thanks for the comment. Yes you'll be fine using the Samyang 14mm especially if you're shooting with a crop sensor camera. I do have a star tracker and the sky images are very good from it .. but, for my particular method of creating my nightscape images which relies heavily of multiple light painted foreground shots the workflow is so much easier by using stacking rather than tracking. When tracking the camera is moving to follow the rotation of the stars, therefore the foreground will be blurred. So you need to be very good at photoshop to blend everything back together again to look like it should. This is a very understated part of using a star tracker that many people don't even mention in the conversation. It's easy enough with nice flat and hard surfaces but once you start adding trees and complicated foregrounds it becomes a nightmare.
Richard, this is fantastic. I’ve really been impressed with your images. The combination of Milky Way and light painting is beautiful. I just started doing a bit of landscape last summer, and am looking forward to trying this in my spring and fall (in Canada and don’t do much outdoor photography in the winter). I really had no idea what lens to use. I don’t have anything ideal. I have the Z6 but nothing wide and fast - I own the 24-70 F4 and 50 1.8S. Don’t think I can afford a 20 1.8 for a while, so at least now I have an idea of when, where and how I might use the 50.
I appreciate the time and energy that you put into making these. You are informative and interesting. You have the image to show that you know what you’re doing. I’m looking forward the hearing and seeing more.
Thanks a lot for watching Matt. I have used the 24-70 f4S for nightscapes. See this video: ruclips.net/video/dllp7BBvmPg/видео.html
Excellent explanation
Thanks very much Mario
Well done Richard. I’m in the beginning phase of night photography so I’ve been using 14mm exclusively. Of course longer focal length mean shorter shutter speeds and generally higher ISO. I’d love to see a video discussing ISO and how much you do in post to reduce noise. Maybe the Nikon sensor handles noise better than my 5dmiv.
As always, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
Thanks a lot for watching Dave. ISO is a very interesting subject but I have found that the Canon's generally like to be shot at higher iso's in camera rather than raising the exposure too much in post. The 5Dmk4 is one of the better sensors though. The Sony and Nikon are easier to shoot at a lower iso and raise it in post without a lot of noise gain. I probably prefer to stack for noise reduction now and in that case I'll generally shoot at the higher iso in camera.
Nightscape Images yes I don’t like to recover deep shadows in post because it just makes a mess of the image. Sequator is my go to app now after watching your videos. Just a brilliant piece of software.
@@dav14pawest Yes Sequator is brilliant Dave. My observation is that it's better to add light during capture as that helps to minimise the visible noise in shadow areas. A long exposure (or multiple long exposures) of the foreground will help with that also.
Fantastic video! Just wondering, how would your usual Bracket/Stack look like with the 50mm since you have such a shallow depth of field on your subject?
Thanks so much for watching. It works just the same but I have to be very careful to focus correctly on the foreground.
Your videos are great. Instead of saying what's right or wrong, u just shared what u does, shared ur experience. Not many people shot astro with a 50mm but u showed us it's possible and shared ur excellent photos as example. U just got another subscriber. ❤️
I'm really pleased you like the video my friend, thanks so much for your support.
Thanks for this Richard. I have a Sony crop sensor camera and my widest lens is a Sigma 28mm 2.8, I also have a native Sony 35mm 1.8 which I actually prefer although it must be about 50mm full frame equivalent. However most things that are of interest are very low in the sky in the UK at this this of year so maybe I am just getting away with it at the moment! Also it has dawned on me that although a narrower field of view I will get longer star trails with the 35mm in a given time period. I don't think I can justify splashing out on a better full frame camera until I have got better in terms of skill. However for when when I do if you were starting out now and had to chose would you go with your DSLR or the mirrorless ? ( or will Nikon lock you up if you answer!)
Thanks for watching Ann. I'd go mirrorless if you can afford it. Nothing wrong with the DSLR's but they are going to be a dying breed soon enough. And from my experience the mirrorless lenses are far superior. I love the Nikon Z6, but the Canon R6 or Sony A7 series are wonderful also.
Yeah 🥳 Love your videos. Im diving right into this one now 👍
Thanks heaps Torbjorn, really appreciate your support.
This adds a lot of insight Richard. I'm thinking I should try a 45 year old Nikon 50mm 1.8 that I have on my Z6/FTZ. You really have curious now. Awesome video as always.Cheers!
Marty
Good on you Marty, really appreciate you watching mate.
Your images are beautiful! Loved seeing them.
Thank you so much for watching Arlene
Another great video and makes me want to finally shoot some night sky, perhaps with my 24mm Canon. My question is: what is the Milky Way season like in Australia? I am just west of Melbourne myself so great to see another Victorian here on YT.
Thanks so much for watching. The m,lky way season here in Australia is awesome. You can see the rising milky way core now in the eastern sky after about 2am. As the year progresses the core will rise earlier each day until it's then visible in the western sky from about July to November.
I am big fan of your work, and I wanna say thank you. Give me the suggestion of lens to add my collections, I already have the 14mm for my canon 90d but I’m trying to expand my collections, also, what wireless shutter releaser do you recommend. Thank you, waiting for your response
Thanks so much for your wonderful support. The 14mm is actually 21mm in full frame terms and a great focal length for your 90D. You could try something like a 24mm lens for those occasions when you want to zoom in a bit closer. I use and love the Yongnuo rf603ii wireless remote. www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1096382-REG/yongnuo_rf_603ii_c3_rf603_ii_wireless_remote.html
Lately I've been shooting every day landscape including street with the Tokina Firin 20mm f/2. I'm actually enjoying it much better than the Samyang 14mm f2.8. Maybe is like you said, it feels like the sweet spot.
Thanks a lot Oscar, I've heard very good things abaut that Firin lens . .as I've often mentioned I love the 20mm focal length.
Thanks for the info Richard,
I am thinking about the next time in Australia I may try my hand at some narrower focal lengths for the Magellanic Clouds and your Southern Cross using either 85mm /f1.4 and or 105mm/f1.4 Sigmas using a Sky Tracker just have to figure out how to Polar align in the Southern hemisphere.
Have G-day mate!
Thanks a lot Thomas. Yes polar aligning in the South is not as easy as what you are used to .. but I'm sure you'll get some good results with those lenses.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thanks Richard,
I was planning for this September but may have to wait until April/May of 2021 but we will see. Thanks again!
Tom
I enjoy your videos! Another excellent all-round lens for nightscapes is the Rokinon 24mm F1.4.
Thanks a lot for watching. Yes a lot of people love that lens. I did have it but could never get a sharp image from it . .I think my copy was de-centred. Sadly that's a Samyang/Rokinon issue.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Yes. I had a Rokinon 14mm F2.4 that was quite soft. Fortunately, B&H exchanged it no questions. The second copy is sharp. I'm anxious to try Canon's new R5 with a RF50mm or RF 35mm F1.2 lens for nightscape. (Perk of having a daughter who shoots weddings lol)
@@djack4125 Yes those new Canon's look really good. Nothing wrong with cashing in a few favours with the daughter ..!!!
im liking the fly by wire, ive just bought a fuji and when you set it to infinity its perfect focus everytime, sometimes you just have to move with the times.
Yes I agree with you Craig, the new lenses are very good. It just takes time for some people to change I guess.
As a landscape photographer, I would use the longer to get the compression. So why not nightscape.
Enjoy your channel very much has enhanced my knowledge and photos greatly. Thanks
Thanks so much Stephen. Yes it's exactly the same as landscape .. or portrait, or sport etc.