Hi Richard! Great video, very informative. A lot of good, practical advice. I’m so happy that i’d actually bumped on your channel here on RUclips sometimes ago! A pitty Australia is so far from where I live. Especially now. Stay in good health! Best from Poland.
Another great video, Richard, and I think I'm getting into it now. One thing that still intrigues me is how, in the case of a multi-row panorama, does the software align and stack the images and then merge with a fixed foreground, when during the course of taking those individual images, the stars have "moved"? Is it just the magic of the software? In Starry Landscape Stacker (for example), you have to delineate the sky from the foreground so the software knows what to align the stacked stars with. In LR or PS, merging panoramas doesn't seem to do this step. Is it just the software being very clever, and me being stupid (it wouldn't be the first time, let's be honest)? Great content, as always, and thank you so much for sharing it.
Thank you so much for the clarity of your videos Richard. You would make an excellent teacher (coming from a retired teacher myself). How are you dealing with star movement and their subsequent alignment in the panoramas? Is Lightroom able to compensate or is it not an issue if you take the images quickly enough? Thanks again.
Nicely presented and in an easy to understand format - the Lightroom software certainly has a lot of functionality to it, it would be interesting at some point to learn what hardware you utilise for running the software and how well it performs in your eyes. Certainly seems a bit power hungry when looking at the requirements.
Hey Three-phase. I've not found Lightroom to be too hard on the computer .. certainly not as bad as photoshop and others. I use a HP Omen laptop for editing.
Hi Richard, great content as always. I have tried multi row pano a few times both with landscape and nightscape. Unfortunately I have encountered stitching issues more often than not. I think it ia because of paralax but not entirely sure. Structures and Horizon fails a lot so I have had to give up on what I thought was a good composition. Do you have any advice for that in terms of how to get around that? Thanks in advance. Bikram
Thanks for this excellent video/tutorial, I have been taking panos forever but have always fought shy of trying multi row ones believing that it would be a far too complicated process, you have taken the mystery out of it. Keep up the good work Richard and I hope that you are out of lockdown soon.
Hello Richard, it must be frustrating not being able to go out and do what you enjoy so much. Hopefully this will all be gone, once they get a vaccine by early next year. Thanks for a great tutorial on panoramas, your instructions are easy to follow along which should give a lot of people the confidence to go out and make their own panorama. Hope your lockdown ends soon so you can get back out there!! Stay safe and I'm looking forward to your next video!!
Hi Richard! Thanks for another great tutorial. I thoroughly enjoy watching your channel. I had a question regarding your first example with the 3 shots. You mentioned that the foreground lighting was all from passing cars, and therefore inconsistent, and you can see that in the 3rd shot the tree is much more evenly lit than in the other 2. When you merged the three in LR the tree seems to have retained the lighting of the first or second shot. Is there a way to control which image it uses for specific areas in LR? Is it like a focus stacked image where you can reveal/hide different layers? Can you do that in LR, or does it have to be done in PS? Thanks.
Thanks for watching Robert. Lightroom selects what it thinks will be the best images to blend. There is more control in programs such as PTgui but of course they are expensive. It may be possible to merge those shots more in photoshop but I usually don't do that. In this video I wanted to keep it very simple.
Thank you Richard for that tutorial, I am hoping to go out Friday night so looking forward to putting this into practice. Thank you again for all your hard work, look after yourselves down in Victoria.
Fun to watch your workshop. Is there a reason why you keep the camera in a horizontal position when you want to get much of the milkyway in the frame? You gain height if you tilt the camera into vertical. It doesn't matter much if you have to make the pano from a few frames more.
I suppose it's a bit easier to shoot in landscape mode when the camera is lower to the ground. I do often shoot in portrait orientation as well. Thanks so much for watching.
great video Richard once the skies clear i will shoot panos having a leveller base on my tripod will make it easy to get it level real quick .great images and easily explained thx very much Phill
curious if you have had issues with the motion of the Milky Way through the sky? Ever ran into images that didn't align right due to the earths motion?
Yes that's generally correct. I find that sharpening increases the noise and especially when I'm doing light painting on my foregrounds the sharpness is very good anyway.
Thanks for the info Richard, we will be going out in a few days time and I will put your principle to the test. Thank you so much for the time and effort you put into these tutorials.
Hi Richard, can you please clarify for me. My understanding is if any light painting needs to be done, it needs to be done multiple times (ie: for every one of the photos that is included in the pano), even if a particular shot is only marginally affected by that light. Is that correct? One other quick query if I could - do you see (m)any circumstances where a 135 1.8 lens would be useful for nightscape photography (without a tracker)? Thanks in advance!
Yes that's how I do it Peter, I'm always trying to get the lighting as even as possible. I think it would be difficult to have any foreground interest in a 135mm lens for nightscape unless it was a very long way away from the camera. This requires quite a bit of planning to get something to line up but it can certainly be done.
I'm so happy that i found this channel. Been following you for a while now. You have made all this understandable for an old guy. Thanks for yet another first class tutorial.
Thanks Richard, wonderful information as usual. I look forward to every episode and am especially enjoying access to your raw files to practice on. The information and quality the information is presented in is far better than video courses that I have purchased from other photographers. I did send a little thru PayPal from your website and recommend all that can to do so as well. I have a question if you don't mind. I'm shooting a Nikon D810 with either the Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 or the Nikon 50mm F/2.8D. The Rokinon is a little wider than I care for and distorts but is what I use most of the time. I use the 50mm for panoramas and I'm happy with the results. But, when stacking and blending images, one set for sky and a set for the light painted foreground, as you teach, I get black outlines around the main foreground element. Only thing that I can think of is focus breathing. I've been considering a new lens to fix, the Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm F/1.8G ED in particular. Do you have an opinion on this lens for nightscapes and if so I'd like to hear them?
Thank you so much for your generous support of the channel Jerry, much appreciated. Yes focus breathing can be a real problem. It's hard to avoid .. especially with longer focal lengths. I tend to try and hide it by leaving some dark shadows near some of the edges. It helps when the lighting is angles from the side to achieve this. The Nikon 20mm f1.8G lens is awesome. I've been using it for years.
I really look forward to your videos. I get something out of every one. I used to shoot huge panos with pano heads that were motorized and programmable and before that with mechanical pano heads, straining to get nodal point exactly in the center of rotational axis. I had some images that were over 400 images and approaching 1 gigapixel in size. Too much work though it was amazing how far you could zoom in and see incredible detail. In the end the only ones that could enjoy the end product were those looking at it digitally and could appreciate the process. Now I prefer to keep things much simpler and printable as you have done here. You are a fantastic teacher and break things down to their simplest elements so everyone can grasp and do themselves. On the lock downs, I hope enough people are making sure the village isn't being burned to the ground in order to save it. Not looking for a contentious engagement with anyone but throughout human history poverty has killed far more people than all pandemics, wars and all other causes combined by a wide margin. Hopefully this is understood by those in power and tempers the rush to allow economies destroyed by sometimes absurd lock down rules. There is no ultimate safety and anyone promising it is being less than honest. Regardless, stay safe everyone and use your own common sense when navigating this virus wherever you may be. Hopefully with a little luck and sensible prevention we will emerge from it soon.
A question Sir Richard. What tripod head were you using when you tilted the camera up for the two-row pano? I'm asking because it's not easy to do that accurately with a ballhead.
I am using a standard ball head Barry. You are correct that it isn't extremely accurate but I've never had any issues using it that way. That's one of the reasons I prefer a lot of overlap.
Great video. None the less, I always have problems stiching ! Sometimes PS works, sometimes ICE, and I usually end up playing around with the parameters. I'll send you a PM with a recent 5x4 pano. Nomatter what I did, it simply would stich, the problem seemed to be in the top row were there were only stars. In the end I left these out and it worked, but the final pano seemed to be cut short. By the way, I will send you a second pic, just out of interest - I just bougtht a z50 with 16-50 kit lens and tried it for nightscapes. I was pleasantly surprised at how well it coped. In terms of handling, focusing etc it is almost identical to the z6.
Hey David, I'd be interested in how much overlap you have in your images, also if you're able to keep the camera level .. especially in that top row ..?? Good to hear about the Z50
@@nightscapeimages.richard Hi Richard, thanks for such a quick reply. As far as I know, I did everything ok. I use a Sirui L20S on tripod to ensure the rotation axis is horizontal and instead of a ballhead, a Kinjoy LB60 which has scales in both vertical and horizontal movements. I was using the Z20mm f1.8 in landscape ( 80° x 60° ). First row horizontally with 30° between each shot, then 30° upwards and second row return, each with 30° horizontally and so on. I triied stiching with PS and ICE and treied all combinations of setup parameters, but all were totally distorted. When I left the top row our, it then worked quite well. When I have time, I'll try to stich only the last row or do it manually and see how it looks.
One problem I have with lr cc, its so much more complicated than lr 3. It doesn't import pictures in order of capture, it mixes them up which means I cant then merge to a pano. I then had to use Microsoft ice, so much simpler
That's interesting Suzanne. I don't have any of those issues with mine. I'm wondering why it mixes them up ..I'll see if I can find out what's causing that.
You must choose your 'sort' option. When in Library mode (either grid or loupe) at the bottom right of the panel you will see a downward facing triangle. Click on this and make sure that 'Sort' is checked. Once this is checked look to the left bottom and choose your sort option by clicking on the up/down triangle and choose 'Capture time'. It will now sort and import your files by the time they were taken.
Hi Richard, thank you for putting so much effort in making these videos so simple to understand. I have been binge watching your videos and each one of them is full of information. You make it so easy. As a fellow Victorian I am looking forward to the time when I could attend your workshops in person. Stay safe and thanks heaps.
Hi Richard, thank you for another great video with so many tips I am so inspired with what you have given us I feel very confident in doing astrophotography now. You make excellent videos and they are are always a pleasure to watch. After listening to you I decided to copy your choice of lenses so I bought a 20mm 1.4 and a 35mm 1.4 and after a lot of research into tech stuff I went with sigma lenses that I think will suit my needs. I looked at the Samyang lenses that are reasonably lenses but what put me off was no auto focus and no data as a budget lens for astrophotography they are ok but I rather pay a bit more now than wishing I bought them later. Here in the UK we suffer from high humidity and have a great deal of cloud coverage and light pollution thus making astrophotography challenging but patience is the key and planning. Thanks again Richard a lovely videos
Thanks Richard, after spending hours apon hours watching RUclips videos and reading reviews and your help makes me happy thank you Richard your 1 in million. My only regret I don't live in Australia with those lovely open spaces and dark skies + warm weather, and seeing the centre of the Milky way and your photography is amazing and very inspiring, thank you.
Hey Richard, thanks for this particular lesson. I´ve learned much about panos now. Although we´ve much light polution and bad conditions at newmoon here in west of germany at the time, i´ll go out and try as much i can i learned on your channel. I hope you stay healthy during this sh*t corona-time and i´m happy to see the next videos from you. Greatings from Germany Dennis
Hello Richard, another great video about nightscape photography. 👍 I like the way you explain the techniques. You show, how easy it is to take a panorama. It's no magic or as complicated as I always thought it is. Thank you very much for your explanation, that inspires me to try it on my own. I just have to find a place with fewer light pollution, but that is not easy here in the south of Germany, but I don't give up. 🤞 Stay healthy and kind regards Thomas
Hi Richard, again a great lesson. i normally use Linux on my PC/Laptop but with every video from you, i am more and more thinking to switch to Windows and Adobe for photo editing. thank you for all your work. Sven
@@nightscapeimages.richard I bought creative cloud for a year for when I going to your workshop in July I can now use your videos to go through the images that I took in the backyard. I noticed your light meter image on the video showing two peaks to the left with the right peak just over the the middle point. I have seen a video from Arron King on night photography showing the light meter in the same position for getting the right ISO for the shot also using a square 10x Jeweler Loupe on the screen when focusing the stars, I tried it with a magnifying glass and it works (I wear Bi-focal glasses ) I found it a bit challenging to get focus with a fly by wire lens (17-28 Tamron) even getting it to its smallest point so I thought. Looking foward to meeting you when the Virus has been tamed Thank You Dave
Perfection 👌. Thanks for making me understand, for Panorama shot and solved the mystery behind how the photos seen in online shows foreground and.m background with wide coverage with depth. Also to utilize the available lights. Learned new edit using Lightroom 😇👍
Thanks Richard, you covered that well, despite not being able to get out in the field. Ironically it was your original video on simple panoramas that got me onto your channel. I like how simply you did it. Then I was hooked, lol
Great video. With newest version of lightroom there is so much more you can do with the image without need to process in some other programs. Simple and easy explanation to make our lives easier and dig into panoramas. Thanks Mr Richard. Cheers and keep safe!!!
Thank you for this a very clear introduction to PANOs; one question I do have is that you often stack images when taking a single composition for noise reduction, could you do that with PANOs - ie do 8 images for each camera position in a 3 x 1 PANO, stack to produce 3 cleaner images and then merge to PANO ending up with a much less noisy PANO or would the star movement be to great for the PANO merge to work properly?
Thanks a lot for watching Steve. Yes you can stack each panel of the panorama and get very clean results. You do need to be careful not to waste too much time though as the stars are certainly moving. It's also a very time consuming way of working, both in the field and in editing.
Thanks Richard, another sensational video, I am getting so much out of them and really look forward to the next ones. I have been putting these lessons into practice and starting to see some amazing results. thanks again. Alan
Awesome as always. Sad to hear about the lockdown returning. Keep well and im sure youll be out there again soon. You are as much of the landscape as the milkyway is by now.
Nice, I've done a few following your instructions. I agree with you on the white balance. I prefer a not so blue sky most of the time. Sometimes looks as if I arrived at the blue hour. The mask overlay is going to help a lot. My favorites at the end is the winding road, and the waterfall.
I can do the panos, and I have several, it's the editing that gets me hung up. I did have a question about the double stack, I noticed you did the bottom left to right but then the top was done right to left. I've always done left to right. does it matter?
It doesn't seem to matter which direction you go. I do a zig zag. So start at say bottom left and when I get to the end of the bottom row I simply angle the camera up and then go along from the right. If I do a third row I'll angle the camera up again at the left end and then start going right.
Great lesson Richard. I was out last night and was trying to do a single shot when I remembered your previous videos. Set it up like you explained and got an awesome shot I would not have been able to get otherwise, easy peasy. Thanks so much!
Hi Richard nice to see you back on again. I thought you may have gone for good, stay well, stay safe......................................
Thanks a lot Andrew. No, I'm still hanging around.
Hi Richard! Great video, very informative. A lot of good, practical advice. I’m so happy that i’d actually bumped on your channel here on RUclips sometimes ago! A pitty Australia is so far from where I live. Especially now. Stay in good health! Best from Poland.
Thanks very much for watching Julis, I do appreciate your comments.
Another great video, Richard, and I think I'm getting into it now. One thing that still intrigues me is how, in the case of a multi-row panorama, does the software align and stack the images and then merge with a fixed foreground, when during the course of taking those individual images, the stars have "moved"? Is it just the magic of the software? In Starry Landscape Stacker (for example), you have to delineate the sky from the foreground so the software knows what to align the stacked stars with. In LR or PS, merging panoramas doesn't seem to do this step. Is it just the software being very clever, and me being stupid (it wouldn't be the first time, let's be honest)? Great content, as always, and thank you so much for sharing it.
Thanks a lot Simon. Yes I think it is just the software being clever as you say. It's way beyond my intellect to work it out.
Thank you so much for the clarity of your videos Richard. You would make an excellent teacher (coming from a retired teacher myself). How are you dealing with star movement and their subsequent alignment in the panoramas? Is Lightroom able to compensate or is it not an issue if you take the images quickly enough? Thanks again.
Thanks so much Kevin. It is always good to take the images closely together but the software just seems to work it out.
Nicely presented and in an easy to understand format - the Lightroom software certainly has a lot of functionality to it, it would be interesting at some point to learn what hardware you utilise for running the software and how well it performs in your eyes. Certainly seems a bit power hungry when looking at the requirements.
Hey Three-phase. I've not found Lightroom to be too hard on the computer .. certainly not as bad as photoshop and others. I use a HP Omen laptop for editing.
Hi Richard, great content as always. I have tried multi row pano a few times both with landscape and nightscape. Unfortunately I have encountered stitching issues more often than not. I think it ia because of paralax but not entirely sure. Structures and Horizon fails a lot so I have had to give up on what I thought was a good composition. Do you have any advice for that in terms of how to get around that? Thanks in advance. Bikram
Than ks for watching. I would say the most important things are keeping each shot level and making sure you overlap a lot .. I suggest about 50%
Thanks for this excellent video/tutorial, I have been taking panos forever but have always fought shy of trying multi row ones believing that it would be a far too complicated process, you have taken the mystery out of it. Keep up the good work Richard and I hope that you are out of lockdown soon.
Thanks so much Bill, always appreciate your comments.
Hello Richard, it must be frustrating not being able to go out and do what you enjoy so much.
Hopefully this will all be gone, once they get a vaccine by early next year.
Thanks for a great tutorial on panoramas, your instructions are easy to follow along which should give a lot of people the confidence to go out and make their own panorama.
Hope your lockdown ends soon so you can get back out there!! Stay safe and I'm looking forward to your next video!!
Thanks very much for your comments Gary. I'm hoping for better circumstances soon.
Hi Richard! Thanks for another great tutorial. I thoroughly enjoy watching your channel. I had a question regarding your first example with the 3 shots. You mentioned that the foreground lighting was all from passing cars, and therefore inconsistent, and you can see that in the 3rd shot the tree is much more evenly lit than in the other 2. When you merged the three in LR the tree seems to have retained the lighting of the first or second shot. Is there a way to control which image it uses for specific areas in LR? Is it like a focus stacked image where you can reveal/hide different layers? Can you do that in LR, or does it have to be done in PS? Thanks.
Thanks for watching Robert. Lightroom selects what it thinks will be the best images to blend. There is more control in programs such as PTgui but of course they are expensive. It may be possible to merge those shots more in photoshop but I usually don't do that. In this video I wanted to keep it very simple.
Awesome work mate, I haven't tried a panorama yet but it will happen soon as I get my new camera organised.
Beautiful photos they look fantastic.
Thanks so much for tuning in again Brad, also really appreciate your generous support of the channel.
Hello Richard - Thanks for this it was most helpful. Tried one Saturday night and I am stunned by the results!
That's great to hear .. well done.
Thank you Richard for that tutorial, I am hoping to go out Friday night so looking forward to putting this into practice. Thank you again for all your hard work, look after yourselves down in Victoria.
I really appreciate you having a look Helene, thanks heaps.
Fun to watch your workshop. Is there a reason why you keep the camera in a horizontal position when you want to get much of the milkyway in the frame? You gain height if you tilt the camera into vertical. It doesn't matter much if you have to make the pano from a few frames more.
I suppose it's a bit easier to shoot in landscape mode when the camera is lower to the ground. I do often shoot in portrait orientation as well. Thanks so much for watching.
Thanks again Richard for another very informative tutorial. Do you have another hidden talent with a guitar?
Thanks so much Darren. I haven't played for a long time.
Thank you very much for putting on these videos. They are helping sooooo much.
I really appreciate you watching Sharyn, thank you.
Hi Richard! Thank you very much for your valuable tips🙂
Thanks so much for watching Janusz
Great tutorial Richard. Take care mate and hope the lock down in Victoria lifts soon. Greg
Thanks heaps for watching Greg. Yes it's a pain but we are all good here.
Thank you Richard, very enjoyable video. Your videos are a good start to my working day
Thanks so much Phillip
Hey Rick,What's the story with the les paul on the wall behind you?
Hey Geoff, I used to play many years ago . .and it's been mounted there on the wall ever since.
Richard I love watching your videos!!
Thank you so much for watching, I really appreciate it.
Very informative.
I've noticed that your videos are not monetized. Please change your settings to monetize all your videos.
Hey Gary, all my videos are monetized.
Thank you from Canada for sharing all this. If one day you wish to come here for Nightscape you will love it. Let me know.
Thanks very much for watching Gin, I'd love to visit Canada one day.
Thanks mate!!! and good morning from Greece!
Really appreciate you watching my friend.
Great video Richard a good breakdown, have a good week 👍
Thank you Leigh, I'm really pleased you liked it.
great video Richard once the skies clear i will shoot panos having a leveller base on my tripod will make it easy to get it level real quick .great images and easily explained thx very much Phill
Yes those levelling bases are great for panos Phill. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video as always Richard.
Thank you, I'm glad you liked it.
curious if you have had issues with the motion of the Milky Way through the sky? Ever ran into images that didn't align right due to the earths motion?
Thanks for watching Paul. No this has never been a problem. That's the beauty of panorama stitching programs . .they just work it all out for you.
Richard, I notice on your PP in LR on all your edits, you don't do sharpening. Any reason?
Yes that's generally correct. I find that sharpening increases the noise and especially when I'm doing light painting on my foregrounds the sharpness is very good anyway.
Good advice there Richard, thanks for the video.
Thanks heaps for having a look Patrick
Thanks for this informative video.
I'm very pleased you like it Phyllis, thanks so much for watching.
Thanks for the info Richard, we will be going out in a few days time and I will put your principle to the test. Thank you so much for the time and effort you put into these tutorials.
I'm really pleased you're getting something out of the videos Francis, thanks for watching.
Hi Richard, can you please clarify for me. My understanding is if any light painting needs to be done, it needs to be done multiple times (ie: for every one of the photos that is included in the pano), even if a particular shot is only marginally affected by that light. Is that correct? One other quick query if I could - do you see (m)any circumstances where a 135 1.8 lens would be useful for nightscape photography (without a tracker)? Thanks in advance!
Yes that's how I do it Peter, I'm always trying to get the lighting as even as possible. I think it would be difficult to have any foreground interest in a 135mm lens for nightscape unless it was a very long way away from the camera. This requires quite a bit of planning to get something to line up but it can certainly be done.
Thanks Richard, much appreciated
Really well done I hope lock down ends soon so you can get back to your adventures.
Thanks again for watching Joesph, really appreciate it.
Thanks Richard, stay safe mate.
Really appreciate that John
Great info my Dear!!! 🤩🥰🤩
Thank you as always Carole
👏👏👏👏👍👍👍👍🙌
I'm so happy that i found this channel. Been following you for a while now. You have made all this understandable for an old guy.
Thanks for yet another first class tutorial.
Thanks heaps for watching Rino, I try to do my best to keep it simple.
Thanks Richard, wonderful information as usual. I look forward to every episode and am especially enjoying access to your raw files to practice on. The information and quality the information is presented in is far better than video courses that I have purchased from other photographers. I did send a little thru PayPal from your website and recommend all that can to do so as well. I have a question if you don't mind. I'm shooting a Nikon D810 with either the Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 or the Nikon 50mm F/2.8D. The Rokinon is a little wider than I care for and distorts but is what I use most of the time. I use the 50mm for panoramas and I'm happy with the results. But, when stacking and blending images, one set for sky and a set for the light painted foreground, as you teach, I get black outlines around the main foreground element. Only thing that I can think of is focus breathing. I've been considering a new lens to fix, the Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm F/1.8G ED in particular. Do you have an opinion on this lens for nightscapes and if so I'd like to hear them?
Thank you so much for your generous support of the channel Jerry, much appreciated. Yes focus breathing can be a real problem. It's hard to avoid .. especially with longer focal lengths. I tend to try and hide it by leaving some dark shadows near some of the edges. It helps when the lighting is angles from the side to achieve this. The Nikon 20mm f1.8G lens is awesome. I've been using it for years.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thank you for the reply. Your opinion is appreciated and valued.
I really look forward to your videos. I get something out of every one. I used to shoot huge panos with pano heads that were motorized and programmable and before that with mechanical pano heads, straining to get nodal point exactly in the center of rotational axis. I had some images that were over 400 images and approaching 1 gigapixel in size. Too much work though it was amazing how far you could zoom in and see incredible detail. In the end the only ones that could enjoy the end product were those looking at it digitally and could appreciate the process. Now I prefer to keep things much simpler and printable as you have done here. You are a fantastic teacher and break things down to their simplest elements so everyone can grasp and do themselves.
On the lock downs, I hope enough people are making sure the village isn't being burned to the ground in order to save it. Not looking for a contentious engagement with anyone but throughout human history poverty has killed far more people than all pandemics, wars and all other causes combined by a wide margin. Hopefully this is understood by those in power and tempers the rush to allow economies destroyed by sometimes absurd lock down rules. There is no ultimate safety and anyone promising it is being less than honest. Regardless, stay safe everyone and use your own common sense when navigating this virus wherever you may be. Hopefully with a little luck and sensible prevention we will emerge from it soon.
Thanks so much for your insight and encouragement. I really do appreciate you watching.
You cant stack with panos can you?
Yes you certainly can stack each panel, but it takes a lot more time.
Always a pleasure to watch!
Thanks as always for watching Matthias.
Loved it, thankyou
Thanks a lot for watching Jon. Really appreciate it.
So simple even a POME can understand it! Big tick from me.
Haha, I'm glad you like it my friend. Thanks for watching.
Richard is so good at what he does, this Pome understands all his videos perfectly well ;--)
A question Sir Richard. What tripod head were you using when you tilted the camera up for the two-row pano? I'm asking because it's not easy to do that accurately with a ballhead.
I am using a standard ball head Barry. You are correct that it isn't extremely accurate but I've never had any issues using it that way. That's one of the reasons I prefer a lot of overlap.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thanks for that Richard. But can you tell me - coz no-one else can - what exactly is 50 percent overlap?
Well I keep it very simple. I try to make sure I'm capturing approx half of the previous image in my current shot.
Great video. None the less, I always have problems stiching ! Sometimes PS works, sometimes ICE, and I usually end up playing around with the parameters. I'll send you a PM with a recent 5x4 pano. Nomatter what I did, it simply would stich, the problem seemed to be in the top row were there were only stars. In the end I left these out and it worked, but the final pano seemed to be cut short. By the way, I will send you a second pic, just out of interest - I just bougtht a z50 with 16-50 kit lens and tried it for nightscapes. I was pleasantly surprised at how well it coped. In terms of handling, focusing etc it is almost identical to the z6.
Hey David, I'd be interested in how much overlap you have in your images, also if you're able to keep the camera level .. especially in that top row ..?? Good to hear about the Z50
@@nightscapeimages.richard Hi Richard, thanks for such a quick reply. As far as I know, I did everything ok. I use a Sirui L20S on tripod to ensure the rotation axis is horizontal and instead of a ballhead, a Kinjoy LB60 which has scales in both vertical and horizontal movements. I was using the Z20mm f1.8 in landscape ( 80° x 60° ). First row horizontally with 30° between each shot, then 30° upwards and second row return, each with 30° horizontally and so on. I triied stiching with PS and ICE and treied all combinations of setup parameters, but all were totally distorted. When I left the top row our, it then worked quite well. When I have time, I'll try to stich only the last row or do it manually and see how it looks.
@@dhg1960 PTGUI is good for manual stitching .. but it comes at a cost.
Super one Richard
Thank you so much Chetan
Such a fantastic tutorial Richard, really easy to follow. Great work mate. Beautiful results.
Thanks again Adrian, always appreciate your support mate.
Great video Richard!! -- I am actually going out tonight to shoot the night sky and I am going to use this information tonight!
That's fantastic to hear Gary, I hope you do really well.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Well -- high clouds moved in and too much light pollution -- need to get further out of town! Keep on trying!!!
You're a scholar 👍
You're a champion mate .. all the best.
One problem I have with lr cc, its so much more complicated than lr 3. It doesn't import pictures in order of capture, it mixes them up which means I cant then merge to a pano. I then had to use Microsoft ice, so much simpler
That's interesting Suzanne. I don't have any of those issues with mine. I'm wondering why it mixes them up ..I'll see if I can find out what's causing that.
You must choose your 'sort' option. When in Library mode (either grid or loupe) at the bottom right of the panel you will see a downward facing triangle. Click on this and make sure that 'Sort' is checked. Once this is checked look to the left bottom and choose your sort option by clicking on the up/down triangle and choose 'Capture time'. It will now sort and import your files by the time they were taken.
@@bobsheridan6692 Thank you, I use Microsoft image composite editor now, much easier
Hi Richard, thank you for putting so much effort in making these videos so simple to understand. I have been binge watching your videos and each one of them is full of information. You make it so easy. As a fellow Victorian I am looking forward to the time when I could attend your workshops in person. Stay safe and thanks heaps.
Thank you so much for watching Atif, I really appreciate your comments.
Hi Richard, thank you for another great video with so many tips I am so inspired with what you have given us I feel very confident in doing astrophotography now.
You make excellent videos and they are are always a pleasure to watch.
After listening to you I decided to copy your choice of lenses so I bought a 20mm 1.4 and a 35mm 1.4 and after a lot of research into tech stuff I went with sigma lenses that I think will suit my needs.
I looked at the Samyang lenses that are reasonably lenses but what put me off was no auto focus and no data as a budget lens for astrophotography they are ok but I rather pay a bit more now than wishing I bought them later.
Here in the UK we suffer from high humidity and have a great deal of cloud coverage and light pollution thus making astrophotography challenging but patience is the key and planning.
Thanks again Richard a lovely videos
Thanks very much for your comments David. I think those lenses are very good choices.
Thanks Richard, after spending hours apon hours watching RUclips videos and reading reviews and your help makes me happy thank you Richard your 1 in million.
My only regret I don't live in Australia with those lovely open spaces and dark skies + warm weather, and seeing the centre of the Milky way and your photography is amazing and very inspiring, thank you.
@@GOTOHOBBIES You're very welcome David. I'm always happy to help anytime.
Thanks again.
My pleasure, thanks for watching.
Hey Richard, thanks for this particular lesson. I´ve learned much about panos now. Although we´ve much light polution and bad conditions at newmoon here in west of germany at the time, i´ll go out and try as much i can i learned on your channel. I hope you stay healthy during this sh*t corona-time and i´m happy to see the next videos from you.
Greatings from Germany
Dennis
Thank you so much for your comments Dennis, and for watching my channel.
Hello Richard, another great video about nightscape photography. 👍
I like the way you explain the techniques. You show, how easy it is to take a panorama. It's no magic or as complicated as I always thought it is. Thank you very much for your explanation, that inspires me to try it on my own. I just have to find a place with fewer light pollution, but that is not easy here in the south of Germany, but I don't give up. 🤞
Stay healthy and kind regards
Thomas
Thank you very much for watching my friend, I really appreciate your comments.
Hi Richard, again a great lesson. i normally use Linux on my PC/Laptop but with every video from you, i am more and more thinking to switch to Windows and Adobe for photo editing.
thank you for all your work.
Sven
Thanks a lot for watching Sven
Excellent again Richard, that shot at 2.50 over the paddocks to Mt Hope (I think) is mind blowing. Thanks again for these tutorials.
Thanks so much mate, always appreciate your comments.
Thanks again for your video Richard
I really appreciate you watching Dave
@@nightscapeimages.richard I bought creative cloud for a year for when I going to your workshop in July I can now use your videos to go through the images that I took in the backyard. I noticed your light meter image on the video showing two peaks to the left with the right peak just over the the middle point. I have seen a video from Arron King on night photography showing the light meter in the same position for getting the right ISO for the shot also using a square 10x Jeweler Loupe on the screen when focusing the stars, I tried it with a magnifying glass and it works (I wear Bi-focal glasses ) I found it a bit challenging to get focus with a fly by wire lens (17-28 Tamron) even getting it to its smallest point so I thought. Looking foward to meeting you when the Virus has been tamed Thank You Dave
@@davelong6727 Yes it can be very difficult to get the focus right, especially with glasses.
Perfection 👌. Thanks for making me understand, for Panorama shot and solved the mystery behind how the photos seen in online shows foreground and.m background with wide coverage with depth. Also to utilize the available lights. Learned new edit using Lightroom 😇👍
Thanks a lot for watching
Thanks Richard, you covered that well, despite not being able to get out in the field. Ironically it was your original video on simple panoramas that got me onto your channel. I like how simply you did it. Then I was hooked, lol
I really appreciate your support my friend.
Great video. With newest version of lightroom there is so much more you can do with the image without need to process in some other programs. Simple and easy explanation to make our lives easier and dig into panoramas. Thanks Mr Richard. Cheers and keep safe!!!
Thanks as always Milorad, always appreciate your comments.
Thank you for this a very clear introduction to PANOs; one question I do have is that you often stack images when taking a single composition for noise reduction, could you do that with PANOs - ie do 8 images for each camera position in a 3 x 1 PANO, stack to produce 3 cleaner images and then merge to PANO ending up with a much less noisy PANO or would the star movement be to great for the PANO merge to work properly?
Thanks a lot for watching Steve. Yes you can stack each panel of the panorama and get very clean results. You do need to be careful not to waste too much time though as the stars are certainly moving. It's also a very time consuming way of working, both in the field and in editing.
Thanks Richard, another sensational video, I am getting so much out of them and really look forward to the next ones. I have been putting these lessons into practice and starting to see some amazing results. thanks again. Alan
I'm really pleased to hear that Alan, thanks heaps for watching.
Awesome as always. Sad to hear about the lockdown returning. Keep well and im sure youll be out there again soon. You are as much of the landscape as the milkyway is by now.
Thanks so much for watching Simon. Yes it's not as bad here as Melbourne ... we'll just have to wait.
Thank you again Richard for putting this series together, it has both given me a few pointers, and confirmed some of what I have been doing.
You're welcome Todd. Thanks again for watching.
Many thanks for all the effort you put into these, Richard. Great work and much appreciated. 👍
I'm really pleased you like them Peter, thanks so much.
Great video! Your videos have really inspired me. Now, I just have to find the time.
Thanks so much for watching.
Nice, I've done a few following your instructions. I agree with you on the white balance. I prefer a not so blue sky most of the time. Sometimes looks as if I arrived at the blue hour. The mask overlay is going to help a lot. My favorites at the end is the winding road, and the waterfall.
Thanks very much for watching again Bruce. Also I really appreciate your support of the channel ..Thank you.
Happy to be in front of my laptop when pop out the video. Really enjoy it.. so thank you a lot for those videos..love night panoramas.
Thanks for watching again Luis
I can do the panos, and I have several, it's the editing that gets me hung up. I did have a question about the double stack, I noticed you did the bottom left to right but then the top was done right to left. I've always done left to right. does it matter?
It doesn't seem to matter which direction you go. I do a zig zag. So start at say bottom left and when I get to the end of the bottom row I simply angle the camera up and then go along from the right. If I do a third row I'll angle the camera up again at the left end and then start going right.
Great timing. I was wondering how to do this. As I want to give this ago. Thanks Richard
I'm really pleased you got something out of it. Appreciate you watching.
Great lesson Richard. I was out last night and was trying to do a single shot when I remembered your previous videos. Set it up like you explained and got an awesome shot I would not have been able to get otherwise, easy peasy. Thanks so much!
I'm really pleased to hear that, thanks heaps for the encouragement.
Thanks for posting this, you have really cleared up some mysteries for me in regards to panoramas! Great images as well!
Thanks a lot for watching. I'm glad it was helpful.
You are the best, you always teaching us, thank you for your work :D
I'm really pleased you like it Fernando
Such a great tutorial again Richard. Love learning from you
I'm so pleased you enjoy the videos Heather, thanks so much for watching.
Спасибо Ричард !!!
Thank you so much for watching Kella