When I had the solenoid fail for a 2nd time I took it out, cleaned it, then put 12v through it to see if it was working ok, the piston wasn’t moving very well but as I continued to put the 12v through it it spat out a whole bunch of fluid then started working smoothly again, so for me it looked like it was blocked. I then went back to my 1st solenoid that I still had and did the same thing and same result, spat out some fluid and started working. My cleaned solenoid has been working now for 5+ years.
Fascinating. This reminds me a lot of what's called the Rear Wheel Steering delete for the Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4, where you cut off the power steering to the rear wheels, remove the now unnecessary and heavy power steering parts, and add some small adjustable aftermarket control arms to the mechanical steering rack/components keep them straight because of age, only nowhere near as easy as this.
Perfect timing. I needed this. Just ordered one, see how it goes. Also, just saw your other video about the fire! Omg I hope everyone in the area stays safe and can save what yall can if it really does get farther! I cant imagine..😢
@matthewgoodrichrealestateb9943 If you have constant E-DIFF issues, then the best option is to permanently disable the E-DIFF and replace the hydraulic parts with our blanking plugs kit.
@matthewgoodrichrealestateb9943 Thank you, you ordered the right one since your E-DIFF is toast and it would get only worst. We see a lot of these exact symptoms when the internals of the E-DIFF start to fail by blocking the transmission (that's the sound you hear). The SEB ECU will totally fix that.
the main thing about this SEB device (i had it on my F430) is that when you're attacking a corner you really feel that the car is more mechanical, less computer driven, if you seewhat I mean. the driving experience in corners is more raw
hmm. I think that if I wanted to buy this car, I'd rather have the actual problem fixed rather than just turn off the thing that's broken? Maybe anyway! Not a criticism, just trying to understand. Seems like this part is $500 or so, and the actual FIX for the problem is $1k.
Fair point and would agree, but the other reason people buy this part is that it is one less thing for the F1 pump to have to do so in theory less wear on the F1 pump which is already a source of owner anxiety on these cars.
@@js3602 the F430 was designed with the F1 concept plus E-Diff. The car won’t go faster with a 3 pedal. I guess one thinks he’s cool rowing through the gears but the Ferrari standard gated shifter is a POS especially in the F430. Even going after market in the shifter probably just somewhat minimizes the difficult 1-2 shifts. Some experience issues with 5-6. And before you say it I already have a manual 3 pedal other car. It was originally engineered and designed with the 6 speed manual in mind.
Correct me if im wrong, but isnt it a bad choice to disable warning system(e diff), why not fixing the triggering problem, like acumulator or f1 pump. Or am I missing something?
When I had the solenoid fail for a 2nd time I took it out, cleaned it, then put 12v through it to see if it was working ok, the piston wasn’t moving very well but as I continued to put the 12v through it it spat out a whole bunch of fluid then started working smoothly again, so for me it looked like it was blocked. I then went back to my 1st solenoid that I still had and did the same thing and same result, spat out some fluid and started working. My cleaned solenoid has been working now for 5+ years.
You know why I love watching you? It's because you are always honest about everything
Fascinating. This reminds me a lot of what's called the Rear Wheel Steering delete for the Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4, where you cut off the power steering to the rear wheels, remove the now unnecessary and heavy power steering parts, and add some small adjustable aftermarket control arms to the mechanical steering rack/components keep them straight because of age, only nowhere near as easy as this.
That's a great gold nugget right there !!! Seems to eliminate a number of potential headaches.....
Perfect timing. I needed this. Just ordered one, see how it goes. Also, just saw your other video about the fire! Omg I hope everyone in the area stays safe and can save what yall can if it really does get farther! I cant imagine..😢
Great video, thank you very much Dan for explaining and demonstrating the SEB ECU!😀
Thanks for making a great product! 😁👍
@matthewgoodrichrealestateb9943 If you have constant E-DIFF issues, then the best option is to permanently disable the E-DIFF and replace the hydraulic parts with our blanking plugs kit.
@matthewgoodrichrealestateb9943 Thank you, you ordered the right one since your E-DIFF is toast and it would get only worst. We see a lot of these exact symptoms when the internals of the E-DIFF start to fail by blocking the transmission (that's the sound you hear). The SEB ECU will totally fix that.
I have this for mine, one less thing to go wrong!
the main thing about this SEB device (i had it on my F430) is that when you're attacking a corner you really feel that the car is more mechanical, less computer driven, if you seewhat I mean. the driving experience in corners is more raw
Yeah
Update, I just installed this on my 430 and it made a huge difference on so many levels. Plug & play and really fast shipping. 👍👍
Nice! Glad to hear it's working for you too. :)
Very interesting Dan,very intresting.Hope you and your family are doing well.
When the E-diff is disabled in race mode, is the differential locked or unlocked?
So there are two double seals inside the e-diff plate, I got them replaced (produced at a local factory) and now the pressure issue has been fixed.
Oh nice! That's good to know.
hmm. I think that if I wanted to buy this car, I'd rather have the actual problem fixed rather than just turn off the thing that's broken? Maybe anyway! Not a criticism, just trying to understand. Seems like this part is $500 or so, and the actual FIX for the problem is $1k.
My sentiments. 👍
Fair point and would agree, but the other reason people buy this part is that it is one less thing for the F1 pump to have to do so in theory less wear on the F1 pump which is already a source of owner anxiety on these cars.
That's why you get the F1 converted to a manual and then you have a proper Ferrari.
@@js3602 the F430 was designed with the F1 concept plus E-Diff. The car won’t go faster with a 3 pedal. I guess one thinks he’s cool rowing through the gears but the Ferrari standard gated shifter is a POS especially in the F430.
Even going after market in the shifter probably just somewhat minimizes the difficult 1-2 shifts. Some experience issues with 5-6.
And before you say it I already have a manual 3 pedal other car. It was originally engineered and designed with the 6 speed manual in mind.
Thank u very much for this Video. This is what i was waiting for!
Just bought this and the relay from them. 👍🏼
Nice 👍
So if you have the car in any other mode besides race there is still an issue with the F1 pressure?
Is this fix also relevant to the Scud? I have been getting this error on and off for some years
Should be the same
As usual, great video! :)
Hi where to buy this ?
SOP should be to disable the e diff in all 6spd conversions.
Don't you miss your F430 or F458 ??
Correct me if im wrong, but isnt it a bad choice to disable warning system(e diff), why not fixing the triggering problem, like acumulator or f1 pump. Or am I missing something?
Not really as it's still a locking differential
But did you slow down?
No
1st