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Trying to FIX: PS3 Fat - No Power & Blocked Disc
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- Опубликовано: 17 мар 2020
- Hi, this 'trying to fix' video shows me trying to repair a broken PlayStation 3. It has no power and no lights, also the disc drive doesn't allow any discs to be inserted. I purchased it on eBay as part of a larger job lot with various other faulty items.
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things.
I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series.
Many thanks, Vince.
I'm fairly certain the drop broke the bridge rectifier, but caused no damage to the disc drive. Since the device could no longer power, the owner or the next in line got the drive open and physically recovered the game, then reassembled without moving the gears back to the open position. Great repair!
The power button on the front doesn't ACTUALLY turn off the PS3. Soooo, you'll never be able to "fix" that. But if you hold it down for a few seconds it will go into standby. :)
God i was screamming to the TV, it doesn't work like that
Sometimes I wish we could turn Vince to stand by! LOL
@GM Kof hard same
@My Mate Vince, this is what we all are screaming at our TV's at you. LMAO! You have to HOLD the button to put it into sleep! XD
Yeah that was bugging me, I haven't touched my PS3 in at least a year, but I'm like "wait, don't you have to hold the button down?" lol
Vince, I really enjoy your enthusiastic curiosity in trying to fix electronic devices. And yes, sometimes I am yelling at you to see the problem. But your basic logic for troubleshooting a device fault is refreshing to watch. For those amongst your audience that have formal training in electronics repair it is very interesting to see you find and fix so many problems. Typically, from my point of view, I would have opened the case, checked for obvious burn marks or other indicators of electrical problems and if nothing is obvious then I would start seeing the device as a group of subsystems (power supply, control circuitry, human interface [buttons] and ect.) then try to localize the problem to a specific area within the device. Circuit Schematics are almost mandatory for all but the simplest repairs, and then try to narrow down the problem to a single component or a sub-circuit.
A piece of advice, all AC to DC power supplies are finicky. Any power supply for anything with electronic circuitry will be, basically, one circuit. So if part of the circuit dies, it has most likely destroyed another part too. Check the small capacitors and resistors on th DC side if the rectifier dies. If you've got a bad AC to DC rectifier then when the rectifier dies it could kill these parts, conversely if these small value capacitors and resistors slowly go bad they will kill other components after the power supply.
Concerning discharging capacitors: I've always used a modified heavy duty power cord to discharge capacitors. The modification is to not connect any of the power leads and only connect the ground lead. Use this with the power leads trimmed off on both the non outlet side and the side you will use to ground out your capacitors, and connect a good quality spring clip to the ground wire. (Be sure to wrap each end of your new cable on each end with green electrical tape (green means ground). This accessory cable is also useful for your Anti ESD wrist strap, a good way to safely ground an ungrounded metallic chassis, or a good insurance when testing new circuit design on a non grounded project board.
I don't want to discourage you in any way, but you need to practice soldering more. The balls of solder on the SIP Bridge Rectifier you reattached to the power board in the PS3 were less than sufficient. The problem your perpetuating is cold solder joints. You must heat the component lead, the board through-hole connection, and the solder. If not, the solder join will eventually break or separate from either the board (most likely) or the component lead.
BE VERY SURE YOUR WALL POWER OUTLETS ARE WELL GROUNDED!
Please keep going, mostly I am not yelling at my computer like a crazy person when I watch your videos. :)
The power quit when the fatigued leads let go, they tore it down and removed the disk and didnt set the correct position for switches before reassembly. The lid was bent while they were messing with it......NOT DROPPED. :)
Inside the power supply part broken off, definitely dropped.
probably both
owner of the ps3 gets the power fault and does not know how to manually eject his disk, so he dismantles the drive to remove disk leaving the drive thinking there is still a disk inside :D love the vids my dude keep it up
Thanks Gooner :-)
That end of the video had me on edge I was like "please keep it pressed.... oh he will do it?! ... Nope" Haha. I live for those moments when Vince gets excited after a seemingly successful repair. I'm quarantined rn and thank you for the entertainment , cheers !
nothing like watching a MyMateVince video while you are quarantined
god bless this channel
Quarantined?! Do you have Corona?
Serban Iordache Nah, even people without the corona are quarantined too. For California at least.
@@comicsanz97 nah but I have some Dos Equis. Stay thirsty my friend.
@@BasicPixell Oh good. I was asking, because in our country we call it "isolation". People already infected are quarantined.
I feel like you're supposed to hold down the power button to turn it off.
Yeah i own 2 of these and yes thats how you turn them off
But he did hold it down the two firs times right?
@@andersmmvfc.8376 no he kept tapping it expecting it to work like an on off switch when it's a pressure sensitive switch
Yes
Its the same on all ps3 you have to hold the botton down to trun off
You should usually remove the dead legs on a component like that, and for a temporary fix, you tightly wrap wire around the base of each of the rectifier legs, solder them, so you get a good physical connection to the rectifier, and then push those through the holes in the board and solder it well on the bottom. That guarantees a good solid permanent connection w/o potential for things go off later. Love the videos, keep em coming!
Thanks for the tip Phil :-)
Hey Vince, I have fixed alot of PS3 consoles and the answer your questions, 1. The power button is tap to turn on, and hold for 3-5 seconds to turn off. 2. The fan is loud caused by dry thermal paste or an overheating APU chip.
These long videos are actually perfect for those who are in quarantine and that's literally everyone, nice video,
The power button doesn’t work like that. (One tap, off.) you have to hold the button down for a few seconds. As for the cooling fan, you might want to try replacing the thermal paste on the gpu/cpu since it’s been sitting for some time. Remember there was dust there upon disassembly so either the fan is full of it or the heat sink fins are being blocked due to dust. If there is the fan has to work harder to keep itself cool. Whenever I repair one of these I take it All apart so there is no “revisit”..
I love watching your videos, I get just as excited as you when you fix it, and get frustrated when you dont lol. Keep up the great work bud
More like the white nub is to stop you putting a disc in when theres one already in there
Waiting for "Trying to FIX: Coronavirus" knowing Vince's luck he'd probably find a cure 😀
No luck for Vince everything but not luck
Really you want to see that wow.
"remember, i'm not a trained professional. This might not be the optimal way to do it. But it works"
Britain who made a Covid vaccine while Trump wanted people to drink bleach:
We are so much smarter
My guess: it got a sharp knock, dislodged the component and when they couldn't power it on to remove the game they opened it, took out the disk and the drive was left in the 'disc in' state.
i second that idea Sam. Exactly what i thought. I was given my first ps3 by a friend...it needed a new power supply,and also needed the drive resetting,let me tell ya i felt like jimmy neutron when i got that puppy back together all working-talk about pandoras box! nice video1
I'm about to start fixing a ps3 just like this one and your videos are why i don't throw things away until a least taking a few hours trouble shooting and taking apart.
"Nothing, nothing, nothing, something, something, something" - good enough ;)
Something something dark side no it’s nothing nothing and nothing
LOL!
The power button is working fine you just need to hold it for 2 or 3 seconds and it will shutdown like normal
Fan noise seems normal to me. My fat PS3 fan seemed to run high non-stop. It eventually even overheated and I had to reseat the APU. Good work Vince!
Try to avoid wearing watch / ring when you work with PSU's specifically, that's how I burned my finger once.
Yes, press Eject button 55 more times, maybe it will reconsider at some point :D
SIL = single in-line. It's the components package type.
Yeah just means the pin are in a row.
@@GigsVT yes as opposed to dil - dual in line, ie normal ic's say with eight pins.
Old TV animation "Pat & Mat" always comes to mind when I'm watching your videos.
My guess is it was dropped and that regulator broke off, and no power and the original owner panic and pry out a disc and damage the drive so that explain the bent and that it was "a disc in the drive position" , good vid
they took the drive apart to get their game disk back after it lost power which was why the drive stop was still up because it still had a disk in it when it lost power
It’s much louder than my ps3 and mine has new paste, I would replace the thermal paste
When I had a PS3 a while ago I can’t recall being able to turn it off with a single press... I think you hold the power button down it goes into standby???
yep
in the fat model yes.
It depends on the model. I've got CECH2002a or b, and it turns of with a simple tap, but I also have CECH3003B that takes 10-15 seconds of pushing to turn off and almost always ends up corrupting the data.
Hi Vince, thanks for your videos. Here in Italy we are forced to stay at home. Help me get distracted and always learn something new! Sorry for my basic english..a hug!
I hope you and your family are well.
It looks like someone drop that ps3, thus knocking out the bridge rectifier and for that bluray they opened it to remove the disc without set it to normal position. I recommend you to change the thermal paste and clean the fan.
The PS3 runs loud normally, DO try to replace the thermal compound and it will improve somewhat.
I cant believe I watched 42 mins of this, vince mate youre incredible!
Just to shed some light on the disc issue ...the reason why it thought the disc was in there is because when it was dropped it no longer would boot on. The previous owner opened up the dvd drive and removed their game from the top. In doing so, they likely bent the case in the process. So when you fixed the power issue, they system still thought the disc was still there. By manually winding the gear, it lowered the retainer clip allowing the system to now accept a new disc. Hope that makes sense. Great video!! Keep them coming! New subscriber here. Thx!
that pin in the front of the disc drive is to stop people from putting in another disc in while there's one already inside
Lovely fault finding and fixes, easier to leave top covers off for testing, later ps3 fat models are easier to work on than the cech c03, worth thoroughly cleaning dust out, new thermal pads and paste, cr2032 battery 👏
Very simple fix for the off button:
You just need to hold it down for 3 seconds haha
Be careful about swapping whole power supplies though ! Not all are compatible between fat models.
CECHA - CECHG used the first generation of the CPU + GPU, which used a lot of power, and had a beefy power supply to cater for that (as you noticed, 23amps !).
Later model fat ps3s had revised chips that used much less power, so they had weaker power supplies accordingly.
An easy way to tell if the powersupply is compatible , is which side of the PS3 the ports are on.
Early PS3s had the ports on the right, next to the power switch. These use the high power supplies.
Later PS3s had ports on the left, away from the power switch, these used the weaker power supplies.
But the best way to tell is to simply make sure the power ratings themselves match. It's written on the bottom.
12V rail: 23.2amps
5V rail: 0.6amps
If the new power supply matches these, it should work just fine
Thank you :-)
I can finaly rest in peace he saw one of the comments
And please what can i do if my ps3 fat keeps going off and sometimes it won't come just keeps showing a blinking red light each time i put it on
@@Solution-630 what model it is? CECH A - CECH G?
or CECH H - CECHK
@@Solution-630 it sounds like the NEC Tolkien capacitors are dying, you can fix your PS3 by replacing one or two of the Tolkien capacitors with Tantalum capacitors.
There's many videos on how to do this, it is rather easy repair if you can use a soldering iron.
I would not recommend using a heat gun to remove the NEC caps, they're nearly impossible to remove without destroying them anyway, it's better to just tear them apart to remove them.
Jesus you got shocked once? Didn’t think that was possible. Goodness.
it's able to deliver 282W on the 12V line and 2.5W on the 5V line. Watts =Volts x Amps. The wattage is high on the 12V line because it has to power the fan, Hard drive and Disc drive. It takes more power to generate the magnetic fields required to move the motors than it does to operate the rest of the ps3 circuitry. On another note SIL stands for single in line, which simply means there is one row of pins.
Nice fix! I do get a kick out of the ads that are playing in the video. There for Porsche. The Utube admen must figure with all the money we’re saving fixing our own Playstations , we can afford a Cabrera😊
All that amperage would be for the Cell CBE wickedly underated little beasty that one..
Very. All architecture being the same, it could probably outpace the 8-core Jaguar in the base PS4.
The thing holding it back was RAM and the GPU, so much so that most of the major exclusives used the CELL as a second GPU. Uncharted 2&3 famously did this, as did GOW3 & Killzone 2&3 using CELL to do normal GPU tasks like Antialiasing, light geometry and such.
So it ran the base code AND worked as a GPU on most AAA titles that gen. That's how strong it was.
I should add that it was also why multiplats were so bad on PS3 for the first half of that gen: devs only used the main CPU core on CELL (3.2ghz, iirc) due to having zero idea how the SPUs worked in unison within CELL. They just ignored them lmao
The Orange Box famously did this and why Gabe/Steam hated the PS3 at first. Yet, even that one main core was enough to produce a fairly equal but slightly gimped copy. CELL was a beast.
absolutely
Nice job Vince, get that re-visit done ASAP
You fix so many different things
I learn with your videos
Thnx my mate vince
1 love the choice of music lol 2 when you show the stuff on paper I see WTF as you explain what you wrote ROFL god love you for trying to make me understand
For once, some unexpected (and easy-to-fix) problems. But the bridge rectifier was definitely an unlucky victim.
Bonus Info: The bridge rectifier is only capable of inverting the negative half of the AC voltage. The big, fat capacitors are generally there to smooth out this bumpy DC voltage coming out of the bridge rectifier. They store a charge, and as long as they hold a charge, the voltage in the rails they’re connected to will stay high.
_Voltage is really just a difference in potential between two points. The ground is universally referred to as the 0-volt rail._
But the reason the capacitor is able to hold a charge is because a resistor limits the current flowing past it. The capacitor will charge up rapidly, but discharge extremely slowly. And it’s this extremely slow discharge that smooths out this bumpy DC current into an _almost perfect_ DC current.
Almost perfect, because the extremely slow discharge will still deplete the voltage a teeny tiny bit during the AC lows (like, a thousandth of a volt, or something like that... nowhere near enough to cause problems).
Sorry but this is actually not 100% right. The bulk caps on the primary side are _not_ supposed to "perfectly flatten the voltage" and it isn't even a requirement in SMPS's. Basically, having such big caps to transport that amount of power in just a tiny time window of a current burst to bring the voltage 1/1000V up again each half cycle would severely degrade your power factor and you would need loads of caps more to achieve that for a 200W PSU... 😄
The switch mode controller doesn't really care about ripple but it definitely needs a certain minimum voltage to operate. It switches and regulates at very high frequencies (compared to the low 50/60Hz) so that e.g. a 10% LF ripple doesn't matter actually. But these caps have to maintain at least 90% of the voltage during the whole half cycle (10ms) and they need to deliver 200W during that. That is quite a lot of power for quite a long time period. 😉
There is rather a trade-off between power factor (passive power factor correction in this case) and maintenance of minimum input DC voltage (and also the price; big caps are expensive). Usually you want to keep the caps as big as necessary (high PF+minimum DC voltage+margin) and as small as possible (price, space).
Regarding the output voltage, it is perfectly flat (presuming parasitic coupling of HF is properly filtered) as long as the change rate of current (dI/dt) is orders of magnitude lower than the switching frequency. It is just all about the frequency of the controller feedback and the frequencies on the demand side. However, the primary side caps have no effect on the output ripple. What you maybe meant was output caps of linear power supplies? That's another story...
Hi Vince, you need to hold down the power button for a few seconds to put it into standby.
However, if it doesn't go into standby you can bend the top prong up slightly on the switch and this should sort it. It may take some trial and error.
I had the exact same problem with a used fat ps3 I bought second hand.
The noisy fan is normal, that model of ps3 were notorious for having a loud fan. Almost sounded like a rocket taking off some nights.
Well, cleaning it and exchanging the crappy thermal paste Sony used with something decent might actually help. Those PS3s can be relatively silent.
Same as the PS4 Pro then lol.
The problem with the Fan might be because the Thermalpaste may be the Original one out of the Factory. Also maybe the Heatsink might have dust in it. I think putting new Thermalpaste on and maybe clean the Heatsink fins Fixes the Loud Fan noise. ;)
8:49 the fear, tells me that your hands have some stories to tell :)
The fan is definitly too loud. You need to swap the thermal paste BUT you also will have to take off the head spreaders because there is also paste underneath them. BUT I think it was the GPU, one of the headspreaders is very hard to remove and you can easily damage the chip while trying. There is a safe way to do it though. Back in the day you could buy a tool for that but you can`t get it anymore. Pro tip, use a 0,30 fishing line and cut the glue with that. You need to heat the chips up before but not too hot, a hair dryer will do. Cut one or two corners of the glue underneath the chip, just a little bit with something sharp to get a good starting point for the line but be careful. And even with fresh paste put everywhere the PS3 always ran quite loud and hot. The reason is the case it was poorly desingned back in the day. Another tip, drill holes in the back of the case. Some circles of holes 8mm ones, two or three circles above the fan blades will do and put the console veritically, it will run quiet and cool. Another interesting fact, I once thought replacing the harddrive with a ssd would do wonders to my loading times but it didin`t...the fucking IDE cable of the disk drive is the fucking bottle neck this console has! It took me quite a while to figure that out. There is way to mod your PS3 to load games directly from the ssd without using the disk drive. You will have to take the ssd out and connect it to a PC if you want to put new games on there BUT it is worth the effort, you will see a big performance boost in loading times. A game where you will love this, Demon Souls xD....All of this would make a great revisit I think. Have fun and regards.
Maybe they dropped it, realized it stoped working and then opened it up to to take the disc out, hence void sticker off and that white nub still up
@FFirefly 2 I did the same thing
Must admit when i hear the word "rectifier" i do think of ElectroBoom
FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER! Not a puny one diode rectifier.
Had the same thoughts 🤣
Personally, I think of Clive, but damn is ElectroBoom a legend
@@wsketchy ElectroBOOM looks terrifying, yet he is funny at the same time. What a hilarious whackjob that is worthy of a sub.
Rectifier makes me think of an enema.
Another good fix video never comented before quick tip hold down the round playstation button untill option come up then choose shutdown console now it does not matter that the off button dont work
This model ps3 has some thermal issues usually caused by dried up thermal compound between the gpu, cpu and the IHS. I would ‘delid’ both the cpu and gpu and replace the thermal compound all around. Thanks for the video!
This video spurred me on to try to fix my UK launch 60gb ps3 that has ps2 and ps1 compatability. It was suffering from the YLD i had tried previously to bake it on the oven but it didnt work so today I disassembled it and took a heat gun to the main components that cause YLD. To my surprise after re assembly it worked so now i have a choice keep it for nostalgia as i rarely play console games anymore or sell it on with the relevant disclaimers that it has been a victom of YLD in the past.
SIL means single in line. The pins are aligned in a single row. If pins are aligned in 2 rows, they are categorized as DIL (dual in line)
The number of people that were probably screaming “press and hold! Press and hold!” 😂
Two MEAN lookin capacitors, "Capacitors: Am i joke to you?"
Well done on the blue ray disc stuck issue! - you were lucky, usually that front locking issue is due to a faulty laser lens, so goes into auto lock mode. The front metal connectors for power and eject just need buffering up so the contacts works - also look at the plastic casing, the sometimes bend out of shape so there is not contact from top to bottom. Also you have to hold it down, some ps3 models are not instant off
as far as the disc tab being up I think someone has been inside and removed the disc to get there disc back after the power supply went faulty
Hi, great vid 👍 and I think the SIL on the bridge rectifier is Single In-line for the pin lay out 😏
The original PS3 was certainly not efficient though it did save me needing to use the central heating. With that on there was no need for radiators!
Vince dude your videos rock man keep up the great work
An easier way to fix that bridge - take some resistors, cut the legs off, wrap them around each pin - solder those legs then onto the bridge. Because they are wrapped its a more secure connection. Then unblock the old pins, and fit the bridge again - provided you dont heat for ages on the underside and the wrapping is tight, they wont come loose and it will be easy to secure from the underside. Great job - really mysterious failure though - normally that type of break would only happen from wobbling the bridge back and forwards. I wonder if it was sat on top of a washing machine or something that vibrates like mad - that "may" cause that type of failure imo (since it was top heavy due to the heat sink). Just a drop on its own cannot have sheared that off. Maybe the disc got jammed in there after a drop, and it then sat on top of a washer for months on end... Before I forget - never run the screwdriver around like that to try and sort random stuff out, because if one cap IS charged, you may send that voltage into something next to it that doesn't like that voltage ;)
Him dragging the screw driver around sent shivers down my spine. Not the best way to handle sensitive components.
Cheers for the advice Chris. I like the tip on wrapping the pins for strength, I will use that :-) It was a clean break all at the same height, I don't think that power supply had been opened before because the stickers were still in place, really weird!!!!
@@Mymatevince Hehe =D I think on top of washing machine or drier for months!!!
There are two options for a disc drive in that position and thinks there is a disc.
1: Open the drive as you did and just put a disc on the spindle then close4 it then eject it,
2: you could use a manual eject via paper clip which will put the disc drive into the empty position;
The reason it was like this? after a simple deduction I would presume someone has had the drive apart after power failure then removed the disc. They may not have been able to find the small hole for a paper clip.
Thus for anyone, even if the drive is empty, but not sure, just use a paper clip for the small hole on the drives, there is ALWAYS a manual eject. If that doesn't work or budge the mechanism, then take apart and put in a disc, onto the spindle, without turning the cogs, remembering the drive THINKS there is a disc due to it's internal position, then power on and eject.
Vince's beloved TV comes out of retirement, during the time of the COVID-19 pandemic.
Thanks for your Video’s Vince...By learning as you go, it’s a journey for all of us.. Thank you for sharing your learned knowledge...
😁 Vince : "XBox turn off"
Relais on Board (with tears in its eyes): "NOOO ! Took me so much work to turn this damn thing on - now live with it"
Vince I'm going to get you a desk for Christmas as you always appear to be doing things on the floor lol. Mick 👍🤣🍻
You help all of us the ps3 fans thanks mate
That was lovely! Always enjoy your videos, Vince! I wonder if you could fix one that got the dreaded 'Yellow Light of Death'. There are MANY non-functional PS3's sitting idle because of that. Would be an interesting vid for the future if you could find one! Many repair people REFUSE to try to repair a YLoD PS3 - or a Red Ring of Death Xbox 360!
He has! In fact he's repaired maybe 3 or 4 PS3 systems who had suffered from the YLOD!
@@televisionandcheese Oh really? Cool! I'll search for them! Thanks for the heads up!
I know it's a late reply, but easy answer for the BluRay drive.
Device lost power mid-game. Favourite game is now seemingly stuck in device. Having come to the realization of this, previous owner decides the console is already broke, might as well open it and try and retrieve my game. Opens everything, gets disc. Re-assembles, with the drive still believing it has a disc.
The PS3 fat models get hot so it's normal for the fan to ramp up. Also a lot of people mentioned that you can't turn off the PS3 by holding the power button it just isn't a feature.
You are the man....nice job...my ps3 is dead and i want to fix it...😭
Great video as always Vince, keep up the great work.
Thanks Danny :-)
the last owner "bob" , when it ps3 failed to power on, removed the disc from the drive. so the disc tray was in the "cd in mode" when it died.
When you hold it down it can go into standby. Youre supposed to shutdown in the main system menu and shut down by pressing the ps button on the controller, select shutdown
23:30 Pro tip.. Plug in the mains plug to a switched (and trip protected) wall socket, with the switch *off*, then power on from the wall.
Use the wall socket switch not the device switch. If it doesn't power up first time, power off at the wall, toggle the device switch, power back on at the wall. That way you are not next to the explosion. Furthermore the wall socket switch is safety rated for more than the full surge current, so it is far less likely to weld itself shut if there is a bang. Plugging in the kettle end next to the device with the power on is a recipe for brown trousers.
24:27 NO!!! Just no.. never poke anything metal in to anything that has mains on it with the power cord connected... just don't. You don't need to ask why. It is a terrible habit.
That includes fishing toast out of the toaster... in fact most particularly fishing toast out of the toaster... you *WILL* kill yourself.. maybe not the first time, but certainly the last time.
BTW before the trolls wake up and tell me I'm a pussy, I used to do this sort of stuff for a living. Mainly switch mode PSU stuff and CRT based equipment. I've had more whacks from my own stupidity than I care to mention.
Not a pussy, Just sensible.
Better safe than sorry/DEAD!!!
With the BDrive it’s that little motor that causes the drive to get stuck in one position. Sensors you are looking for are on that little pcb board on rhs - little grey mechanical switches. With the power button ...well we were expecting more of you.
Man, the PS3 FAT was a beast, especially the decked out ones that had all the card readers and had real PS2 hardware rather than emulating it like the European FAT models did, the CELL which could do real time ray tracing and made games like The Last Of Us possible, the amazing XMB interface, sick Blu Ray Drive which made it the cheapest Blu Ray Player in 2005 and if you downgrade the firmware to anything bellow 3.21 you could get Linux running on this system. Seriously, this console is beast and one of the last interesting consoles I've seen so far, every other console after that has seemed to be either terrible pre-built PC or an under-powered 2014 android tablet (Looking at you Nintendo Switch). The CELL CPU just made it so special.
yeah i think this is done, long press to turn it off and for sound its normal, i think that version of playstation is emulating sound of car engine to give you immersive experience while playing gt or flying jet engine
The blu ray drives is in its play position when you insert a disc the sled drops down the disc onto the spindle motor and that top magnetic peace keeps the disc tight to the spindle motor. The white little plastic peace that sticks up is a disc blocker it’s so you can’t put another disc in why’ll it’s playing a disc. When you hit eject the sled pops up and the roller arms push the disc out. There’s a little motor that works the sled makes it go up and down and another little motor that takes the disc in and ejects it. The other motor spins the disc and a fourth motor moves the laser. Lots of moving parts either the motor that works the sled is broken so it’s stuck in the play position or the little contact switches that get pressed to tell the the motors to turn on are dirty or could be worn out witch would cause nothing to work.
thanks a lot dude you helped me a lot, for a long time I could not assemble the drive
1. The peg in the optical disc drive is to prevent another disc from being forced into the drive when a disc is already loaded.
When the system broke the original owner probably disassembled the optical disc drive and manually removed the disc.
2. The capacitive power button was functioning correctly.
You have to press and hold the power button until it beeps to shut it off. Tapping the power button will not do anything.
Hello Vince, I think the fan is because of the chip needing new thermal paste so youll have to remove it without damaging it. I would really love it if you did this ,also for yourself so you know you can do it without failing!! Love the vids, keep it up.
Someoe removed the Disc and reasambled the Drive. If you do this the Mechanism on the Top is in the Ejected Position and the Botom Part in the Inserted Position. If you have try to Calibrate your next PS3 you just need to remove the Top Part, Turn the ps3 on and Press Eject, after that just Screw the Drive Back together.
The Power Button needs to be hold down for 3 seconds to prevent exidently power down
The fan noise is fairly normal for that version of the PS3. You can buy a new fan for it but it won’t make much difference. You can buy external fans that go under the PlayStation that cool it down so it doesn’t trigger that fan. It’s just a noisy console all together to be honest. Looking forward to the revisit
Shops that repair these games have a big advantage over us because they have all the spare parts sitting about.
I think the rectifier is too weak and has become too hot and melt solder
The fan noise isn't normal, the PS3 needs new thermal paste, and if still noisy you'll need to remove the heat spreaders, which is no easy task, and replace what is now dried up crap. I got lucky on my first attempt, I exposed some copper on the CPU die but thankfully didn't cut any traces. My console is the first unit which runs hotter than your model, and for it to be quieter definitely means you'll benefit from new paste. Love your videos, always look forward to the PS3 ones especially.
@17:45 Watching you try to solder that bridge rectifier back on with the snapped leads, only thought in my head was 'spend the 2 quid mate, it's not worth the effort!'
Nice vid like always :) You should get Casio DG 20 for repair project. Would be damn interesting, well worth of repair and its damn fun thing to play around with. As not working, they should not cost to much.
nice ive Done ps 3s for over ten years you ever need parts will just charge ya Shipping From Dublin Great Vid
That's very generous. i hope Vince sees this.
Good foking lad
There really isn't any need to replace the bridge rectifier or the power supply. The best way to make a neat repair would be to extend the legs by soldering stiff wires to each leg ( you can use component leads for this, off new resistors for example ), you will probably want to trim a little off the existing legs too so the assembly sits flush. Then clear the holes in the PCB, and solder the whole thing back into place. I've often had to do similar when using reclaimed transistors with short leads.
Thanks Michael :-)
The most likely cause for the disc player to be in that state is for the previous owner opened the system, retrieved the disc without resetting the drive mechanism.
As for the fan, two things that could improve it if there is nothing wrong with the fan. Applying new thermal paste and make sure the fan blades are free from debris.
This PS3 had clearly been taken apart before. That rectifier was bent forward then broken off, the legs were stressed in one direction. By that, I figured the person may have dropped it after it was apart (the top lid of the power supply was off), broke the rectifier off when trying to straighten it out, then had to take the Blu-ray drive apart because a disc was still inside with no power to eject it, which is why the spindle/laser deck were all in the up position and the drive lock engaged. They never reset the drive to "open" position after removing the disc. A simple mistake during a clean/repair can completely render a unit inoperable, it's sad but it happens.
Also, like others have mentioned, the touch sensor requires a 3-5 second long press to turn it off (standby mode).
I also thought the power supply came originally with thermal paste on the copper heat spreaders in the power supply, yours was clean.
the fat ps3s power supplies are notorious for over heating. i mean the PSU sits literally above the cpu so when these start overheating they also heat the cpu, which in turn will make your ps3 sound like a jet engine. i tried this with my ps3 and the replacement PSUs were never fixed. so the only way is to somehow make your own ps3 power supply or find out which component inside the psu is causing it to overheat and replace it. perhaps a great follow up video for this? Id love to know what component overheats inside the PSU.
0:49 bro really gave his ps3 a check up😂
I think the console was dropped - knocking the bridge rectifier off the board - ps3 wouldnt turn on so someone opened it up and removed the disk by dismantling the drive - put it back together with the drive still in the 'disk in' position.
Solder a 100k potentiometer to the fan and adjust it to where it's audible but still blowing enough air.
Brilliant fix mate!
Also, that sound is normal for older phat models. A thermal paste change wouldnt go a miss.