I know that feeling all too well. "I'm more happy about fixing the lead than I am the NES." It's the same way I felt when after 4 years (I'm a complete novice in the repair sector); figured out that the LCD display for my ACER Aspire 15.6" is an actual Samsung LCD and would work on my Samsung V3 (these are laptops by the way, just for clarification sake). Saved $250 (Parts & Labour) from a local store which would have taken them 10 minutes to fix and they would have told me to come back in a couple of days. It is thanks to people such as yourself whom are passionate to share and semi-educate people on what worked for them for a certain situation. Keep doing what you're doing and thank you. Side Note: from one of your other videos, I dislike ribbon wire as well. Second Note: I know this is an old video that I'm commenting on but I saw what you went through with this system and I wish I knew back then what I know now.
I love these type of long un edited for the most part videos of people who just learn. Its very educational and make great background sound! Keep up the great work!
28:30 Double-sided boards of that time almost always have vias in them. Basically small copper tubes, so it doesn't matter if the solder goes all the way through-it will, anyway, because it creeps along the inside of the via. That makes it hard to unsolder ICs, but PCBs are also very sturdy. 41:50 This is just a classic transformer (AC in, AC out). It can't hold voltages, only capacitors do. And they're only a concern in switchmode PSUs. Says smartass me ;), but if anybody out there isn't sure what type of power supply it is, do check. 43:00 The continuity you're testing there is going through the copper wire inside the transformer. It's normal, not a short.
Here is a Tip to see where to cut the damaged cable. Pull out a single piece a wire and if it's coming out you will see the length, and that length tells you where is the problem and thus where to cut.
Just as a preface, you're a good dude and I don't at all mean to come off ill spirited if I happen to. First off, the port on the bottom was meant for the disc system that Japan had (Famicom disc system, for games like metroid, zelda, Mario 2, etc). Secondly, I've repaired dozens of these, and disabling the lockout chip is absolutely worthless if all you are trying to do is solve the flashing light issue. 100% of the time that issue is fixed by giving the 72pin a vinegar bath, or replacing it entirely. I know you weren't the one who cut the chip lead, just letting you know. Thirdly you didn't hurt anything by reflowing the solder there, but it would have been much faster and cleaner if you used a knife tip, threw down flux and just dragged the iron across. Fourth, fussing with the RF is a waste of time in 2019. It was pretty much a waste in 1989 lol. The composite leads are all you need worry about, as long as you have good picture there you're right as rain. Fifth and final, if you're using 91% IPA you really need not worry about things being dry. Before I even open an NES I completely wet the board in the cartridge, run it in and out of the 72pin a few times, and power straight on. There's so little water in it you should never need to wait on it to dry. Sorry for the novel, hope the read is helpful. Keep up the good work mate! ✌😄
@@Mymatevince I pretty much agree with James Buress,but with the power supply you cut too much"good" wire off,99.9% of the time the "break"in the "cable"as you call it is at the "strain relief"itself & a fast,simple way to find it is to pull on the wire until the other wire breaks !!!! Before soldering back on tie a knot behind the"strain relief"so that the "cable"can't pull out of the "strain relief" and undo all your hard work and possibly wreck the transformer leads rendering the unit irreparable !!!!!
@@richardanderson5109 The old SNES power brick had cables that were way too long anyways, that's one of the reasons these tend to break. So cutting off "too much good cable" really isn't an issue on them. They go faulty way more often than the older NES bricks do.
While I do agree with the RF being a waste of time I was practically yelling at the screen "Check the channel selector!" I remember mine in the US could switch between channel 3 and 4. Channel 4 always came in the clearest for me and 3 would "snow".
Just love to see when Vince says some device is well and lovely made. That’s when you understand that the joy of watching this videos is not the end result, but the process and the whole videos themselves
Good result Vince, well done. Just a couple of points: 1) You should be testing transformers in Resistance mode (Ohms) rather than continuity. The transformer coils are of low resistance which your meter will give a false indication (beep) of a short. (although, when it beeps, your meter will probably also display the resistance) 2) If a cable is tight fit in the strain relief, smearing the cable with a little bit of soap will help slide it through.
If I remember correctly my friend had to say a little prayer before starting a game to get it to work. He also used to have some OCD-stuff going on like knocking the cartridge three times against the table etc :-). Thanks for your interesting videos. It's always nice to see how someone else is going about their repairs. I must admit, you seem to have a lot more patience than I do :-).
It's nice seeing someone trying to fix things instead of throwing it out and getting another one. Good job, means there is another working classic out there :)
Using the RF in 2019 is pure love. I am doing it still. Also, I have manage to clean my 72 pin to that point that you do not even need to put the game down for it to work. :) Keep up the good work mate!
Great job sir! Glad to see the additional exploration on the power supply, and that this repair was done so thoroughly. It makes me want to pull my old NES down from it's cardboard home and do the same! I also like that working mat you have, might have to look into one for myself.
I loved this. It reminded me of what my dad used to do. You're probably my age but I used to watch my dad do stuff like this and it inspired me. I became the fix-it guy when at my house.
Another fantastic video with a charming soundtrack. Thanks, Vince! I wish you lived closer, I got an Arkanoid cocktail arcade table that's having issues and I could use a hand!
Glad you got both the nes and the psu fixed as these classics are always great to keep on working and show what the great granddaddy of all the Nintendo consoles is like compared to the switch. The really cool thing about the old Nintendo consoles is that many of the power and av leads are completely interchangeable with each console - ie the nes and snes use practically the same psu's and the snes, n64 and gamecube all use the same av lead.
NO!!! They do NOT use the same cables! SNES/N64/GameCube use a "multiout" connector on the console side and yes they are the same "connector" on all SNES/N64/GameCube. BUT there are changes in pinout for example using a ntsc cable on pal console will most likely lead to in best case tv/monitor/reciver have a burnt input but more likely the macigsmoke escaping. pinouts.ru/Game/n64video_pinout.shtml *CSYNC/Composite Sync is replaced by +12V on PAL SNES and PAL Gamecube consoles (But not the PAL N64)
You could have measured the voltage from the adapter after cutting off the wires. So that you would have been sure that only the wire has gone faulty. Of course you always have to be extremely careful because you're working with high voltages.
The outcoming cable is obviously bad as there is no continuity on the outer casing of the connector and the other end. Also search google how transformers work, it's quite interesting and this one you have seems to be working ok.
Yep, the windings reads as a short because they are effectively a short for DC. You WANT to see a short when ohming the windings, as if you dont, it means the winding has a break. The transformer is perfectly fine, the wire is the one being bad. Replace the wire, and this would be a working power supply. It's a simple transformer, no electronics at all, so there's very little that can go wrong with these..
You can buy replacement 'pin' sets for the NES. They're not very expensive and given how old, oxidized, and worn out they get after almost 40 years in makes sense to replace them.
Hey Vince, hoping all is well. I’m not sure if someone has already mentioned this to you in the comments, but what usually happens with these units is actually due to a flaw. When you insert the cartridge, and lock the cartridge into place with the mechanism, it puts pressure on those pins. Over time, they start to lose a bit of their “spring”. That’s why all future cartridge systems from Nintendo are just a simple friction fit type connector without that push-down mechanism. Best remedy would be to buy a replacement connector. But as someone who fixed several of these, you can actually get them to work again, by sticking a very thin object under the pins and bending them back into place ever so slightly. You don’t want too much force as to dislocate them but just enough to the point that you see a slight difference between s treated and untreated pin. Did this with my unit, and my pins are so tight that I don’t even need to push down on the locking mechanism to get them to play.
i remember when i was young , ive found a way to see thru walls in mario bros 2 , by shorting randoms contacts of the '' expantion port' with a wire , that was badass
Vince thanks for making this video.i have now fixed my nes after 10 years of it not working.new sub.whatched so many of your videos over the weekend great channel keep up the great work.Richie
Hi Vince! Going through some of your older videos just to get more of your content. It's been quite a while since you made this video so you've probably learned this by now, but in case you haven't I feel I should mention it. When you test for residual voltage, regardless if the device is AC or DC, you want to check with your meter set to DC since only DC can be stored. The only occasion I can think of where you would want to test for AC on something that has been disconnected from the mains is if there is a Fan or Pump that is still moving due to air or water flow. In those cases, the spinning motor is a generator, and if they are AC motors, AC is what they will generate.
Yet another legendary fix from a legendary RUclipsr! That power adapter fix also highlighted your profession extremely well! I am running out of specific titles to give you... I may just simply call you "Jack of All Trades" from now on!
I remember it being inconsistent right out of the box back in the day...LOL. Lots of putting the game cartridges underneath my shirt and blowing into it to make it work. Nice video and great job!!
Be careful of just adding solder to a joint. Unleaded solder mixed with leaded solder will have the properties changed and go very soft, watched it on Ipad Rehab. Love your vids and keep them coming.
This was a great video, I love it when a repair goes this well! Maybe you should take a look at "retrobrighting" and get the NES looking as good as new by de-yellowing it. It's a really simple process, you just need a bottle of peroxide creme, a clear plastic bag (vaccum bags work well) and an afternoon of sunshine. The last bit I know is a push for us Brits 😂.
"I just want it to work every single time" - You're asking a lot of the NES there, my friend :D I do think you got it about as good as it gets without modification/replacement though!
so much this the NES zero force slot is not very reliable because of its design, asking it to work everytime is indeed asking way too much for such a faulty slot design
VINCENT this is going to be a good one. 1am here in Australia and I should be getting to bed but a new episode of the MMV show has come out and it's sure to be a banger. Mad lad!
Safety tip, if you see any huge capacitors, make sure you take a screwdriver with a non-conductive handle and touch the leads of the capacitor to discharge them, that removes the charge so it removes any chance of you getting zapped by it
Amazing video vince i used to love playing duck hunt and the old mario on this when i was younger i can't even remember what happened to my NES i had not a clue but it was well loved epic video mate keep it up! :D
Retro repairs rulez!! Vince, you shold get some speccy from eBay and give them love, it's a really simple machine to understand and to fix, not to say a piece of history of UK and Europe, you could show your kids that not only USA and Japan where once leaders on home entertainment! :D
Haha, I have, I got one form the same seller, a Spectrum 128k. I got it the same time as an Atari 2600 back in 2018. I haven't even tried turning it on yet....I will save that for the video to see what is wrong with it :-)
@@Mymatevince A toastrack?? Man, those nowadays cost a fortune!! Hope to see it working someday!! It's the only one I miss on my collection, I have the 48k, +, +2, +2A and +3, but the toastrack is extremely expensive, a broken one is about 150€ and a good working one can cost up to 500€...
No....sorry, Spectrum +2 128K I think it is. It is not a rare one which may be just as well if I am fixing it lol. I only ever had the 48K when I was young so I don't know much about the newer ones :-)
@@Mymatevince Ok, that's the one I had when I was young, the grey one (the +2 is grey and the datasette controls are printed in the keys, the +2A is black(ish) and has the datasette controls printed on top of the keys). Nice machines also :D
Thanks, I can't remember whether it was grey or black. I can't even remember what the fault was on it. What I do remember though is that I bought one of my favourite games for it.....Bruce Lee....I used to love that game :-)
Great video Vince =D Regards the cart slot issue, the problem is they kind of bend a bit over time so the edge connections don't join very well. You can have success using very fine sand paper in and out of that slot there. Some people boil the connector for 5 or 10 minutes too and that seems to work. You can replace them with new ones! There are some modern replacements for that cart connector too! You measured continuity on both contacts on the transformer there because a transformer winding is almost a short. It will be a low resistance between both contacts. The connectors (or cable) fail on these very frequently! I've fixed several of them that have had a damaged cable or connector! One of the main reasons the wires break is people tightly fold and bind the wires for storage (ie. almost 90 degress back on itself).
I'm actually jealous of the reliability you have with the games working there. I remember we would sit down and attempt to make it work by any kind of means necessary for however long it took for us to just change our mind about playing a game on that console lol. Sometimes we were lucky, and when we were, someone would stomp on the ground and all our efforts were gone XD
24:30 On a double sided board, you may see traces jumping from one side to the other. Those 'dots' are called vias. [Edit: A via is a tiny barrel-like object that protrudes through the board itself, is a connecting 'hole'. Nowadays, they do not have solder on them, but before they put them there due to the difficulty of ensuring continuity, or to ensure electrical stability by adding conductive mass.]
change the pin. I use to refurbusb these 15 years ago and resell them on ebay. The one's I use to get all had power, i would clean and change pin worked no problem sold. that was great will you be reselling it now that it is working again. EXCELLENT!!!!
Just a tip normally you will find when a cable breaks it's nearly always near where it goes into the device where the strain relief is. The reason why it read on both ends near the transformer is that the transformer winding are a low resistance and so it beeps on both sides when just connected to the good end of the cable. Good repair great job.
Thankyou very much for the tip at 39:23 about how to get the disk holder to seat. Was trying to reassemble my nes and was having trouble at that step!!
I learned something new watching your video. I never knew what that rubber casing on the power supply was called. "Strain Relief" huh? Well, in the US, our NES power supplies were a bit different. The power supply brick went right into the outlet. I think that design caused the wire to be more vulnerable to movement, because I remember going through a few AC adapters when I was a kid. The issue usually starts with a loss of power, which goes away if you jiggle the cable. Then it progressed needing to position the cable a certain way and taping it to the brick so it wouldn't move. Eventually, it would just fail completely due to total breakage.
Yesss finally the Good old NES Made an appearance in your video’s. Loved this one. Keep to this old stuff and switches mate, leave the HDMI consoles to Steve hahaha.
@@etiennevanharen3893 I never said old things didn't provide new knowledge, it's just that his scope would be limited, because he'll be stuck with old boards.
Thanks for this video Vince, I'm considering stripping my working NES and doing some Retro Bright (once I work out the best way to do that) on it and this may help me out.
believe me , you dont need small fingers to get zapped with those plugs , i have hands like shovels and I`ve been zapped by them many times . I`m an electronics engineer that restores reel to reel tape recorders and many of them come with those plugs on and I`m way too lazy to remove them before I repair the decks . lol . Be careful Vince , you will get zapped by one eventually if you keep using them !
A tip: If you want to slide something inside something, use soap. It will allow it to go inside and once it dries it's ok (instead of using oil as an example). That's used for example to mount new grips on a bicycle or motorbike.
Back in the day I used to repair these as part of my job. You did great! How about a follow up video getting rid of the yellowing from the plastic. Seen some other retro repair vids doing this. Hydrogen peroxide or other commercial products seem to work
I always get a smile on my lips when I see you work. Do you not have no table to sit at instead of on the floor? Like you're stubborn as a Siberian husky and rarely gives up.
Vince. I know everyone is yelling about getting a workbench. But the way you make your videos is unique. I personally really enjoy how you do them. Keep it up my friend! Also. Have you considered trying to fix a faulty N64? Thatd be sweet
To each their own. Yes it might void the authenticity, but I'm keeping my system till it dies or I die. I understand though that there are people who want to keep things 100%.
I used to clean the connectors on these NES systems all the time. You don't need to take it apart or anything. All you need is a pencil. Shave the pencil tip to a flat edge so it's the width of the cartridge edge connector. The lead should be in the center with some wood on either side. Stick it in the NES connector pins and run it site to side for a while and test your cart. That is it, beats any other method.
Awesome! I have the NES mini and it looks just like this one except it does not take cartridges as the games are built into the board. You can download more games to it through your computer which is neat. A+ video:)
Wonderful fixes, Vince! I was way more surprised that you got the power supply working!!! Nintendo sure get the award for the worst cartridge design when it comes to the NES!! I have never had problems with Atari 2600 and other older systems and the NES systems were failing within the first year of release! I remember me and my buddies trying to clean the carts with alcohol and blowing in the cart and it was awful! I'm glad they learned their lesson with going forward!!! Trying to make something more fancy doesn't mean it will work well!
Thanks Jim, I really liked the power supply fault. I like it when you can see a fault and then you know it is fixed. I hate intermittent faults because you are never really sure if it is fixed or if it will reoccur :-)
Great job. With all due respect to your effort on the NES, but I think the fixing of the PSU is more enjoyable. Your background in telecomm is highly respected.
Mine was damaged by some previous "repairer" and all I got was a grey screen. When I took the carriage out to work on the socket, I found a wire had been added to the board, then I noticed a cut track. On closer inspection an adjacent track had also been cut. I added a second wire to bridge that break. I used my SNES power supply as the NES didn't come with one. Yes, NES and SNES used the same power supply. The secondary (low voltage winding) has a low resistance so a continuity tester will show a short. Usually the primary (240V) fails and a short in the secondary can cause the primary to fail.
the intermittent problem is most likely being caused by the slot-contacts being bent out of shape, preventing them from properly gripping the cartridge-contacts
Its an NES. It'll NEVER work EVERY time. if you want it to work every time, buy a Blinking Light Win. its a replacement for the cartridge tray that works much more reliably, and removes the "locking" part of the tray (which is the main cause of degradation for the original cart slot).
46:00 the testing method won't be different if it's used for AC or DC. The continuity buzz you saw when both active and neutral were connected to the transformer would have been through the transformer winding. The bell function on the multimeter still buzzes if there is a few ohms of resistance. You would need to look at the measurement on the screen to see if it is measuring through the transformer winding (broken conductor will give a non-zero reading) or from a good conductor (near zero reading)
Vince you have mentioned in the past about your BT background, maybe you could do a video detailing your Career why you left & what you do for work now. I for one would be interested to know the background.
Hi Vince thanks for the entertaining vids future help notes: 41:51 never trust test/check against an unknown zero when checking for live voltage/stored voltage(capacitors), good practice for your own safety dude..... use a known zero reference e.g. Earth point. could of still been live if damaged circuit(lightly different circuit with caps): Transformer 42:29 looks like you were reading the small ohmic resistance of transformer secondary winding ....not a short that's why your meter buzzed, set to read lowest ohmic value if you can for a true reading to help fault find, hope this helps, thanks for the great entertainment dude n keep up the good work please.Ellis
Thanks for the advice, so I could use the earth from the screws in a wall power outlet or light switch, basically a separate earth from the actual equipment that I am testing, is this correct?
Hi Vince, Yes but (always a but) Never trust what you think something is, where your life is involved, double check, always pre-prove test Earth Point is a zero potential you are using, (takes two ticks), If you don't check Worst case e.g.....:- wall box/screws may not be earthed, wall box/screws may be live..... and insulated from Ground/Earth, - Say your checking voltage with a meter from Screws to a potential Live 230vac you think you've isolated. They may be /= the same...... so no potential difference/voltage..... meter reads zero volts, (cause they are both the same live same source) so you end up working on a live circuit and don't realise....... due to an unproved/ tested earth point..... (note the above e'g. if circuit had RCD should be picked up leakage, or with a neon screwdriver even could be used to double check no live, you may use different safety equipment to check if circuit is live dependent on scenario, case by case..) Hope the above makes sense, i waffled on a bit.Ellis
@@Mymatevince SCREW all that"hunting earth",grounds,etc,etc,build,buy an"Isolation Transformer" and never have to worry about shorts,electrocution ever again !!!!! If you're still uncertain,use the"one hand rule !!! GOOD LUCK & QUIT GOING DOWN ALL THOSE DEAD ENDS !!!! You'll get done a lot quicker,you are an excellent"tinkerer" !!!! Not to be mean,take a"basic"electronics class,it will help you immensely,check out "Mr. Carlsons Laboratory"an excellent source of tips and detailed explanations of the work being done !!! Follow my suggestions and you'll be beating the pants off the "pro"here in the states . I'm an American but I'm always pulling for the"u derdog",again .....GOOD LUCK !!!! You tell 'em "Handy Andy Pops"said so !!!!!
I know that feeling all too well. "I'm more happy about fixing the lead than I am the NES." It's the same way I felt when after 4 years (I'm a complete novice in the repair sector); figured out that the LCD display for my ACER Aspire 15.6" is an actual Samsung LCD and would work on my Samsung V3 (these are laptops by the way, just for clarification sake). Saved $250 (Parts & Labour) from a local store which would have taken them 10 minutes to fix and they would have told me to come back in a couple of days.
It is thanks to people such as yourself whom are passionate to share and semi-educate people on what worked for them for a certain situation. Keep doing what you're doing and thank you.
Side Note: from one of your other videos, I dislike ribbon wire as well.
Second Note: I know this is an old video that I'm commenting on but I saw what you went through with this system and I wish I knew back then what I know now.
I’m from the USA, about turn 40 and loved the NES as a kid, this video made my day.
I love these type of long un edited for the most part videos of people who just learn. Its very educational and make great background sound! Keep up the great work!
28:30 Double-sided boards of that time almost always have vias in them. Basically small copper tubes, so it doesn't matter if the solder goes all the way through-it will, anyway, because it creeps along the inside of the via. That makes it hard to unsolder ICs, but PCBs are also very sturdy.
41:50 This is just a classic transformer (AC in, AC out). It can't hold voltages, only capacitors do. And they're only a concern in switchmode PSUs. Says smartass me ;), but if anybody out there isn't sure what type of power supply it is, do check.
43:00 The continuity you're testing there is going through the copper wire inside the transformer. It's normal, not a short.
Here is a Tip to see where to cut the damaged cable. Pull out a single piece a wire and if it's coming out you will see the length, and that length tells you where is the problem and thus where to cut.
Just as a preface, you're a good dude and I don't at all mean to come off ill spirited if I happen to.
First off, the port on the bottom was meant for the disc system that Japan had (Famicom disc system, for games like metroid, zelda, Mario 2, etc).
Secondly, I've repaired dozens of these, and disabling the lockout chip is absolutely worthless if all you are trying to do is solve the flashing light issue. 100% of the time that issue is fixed by giving the 72pin a vinegar bath, or replacing it entirely. I know you weren't the one who cut the chip lead, just letting you know.
Thirdly you didn't hurt anything by reflowing the solder there, but it would have been much faster and cleaner if you used a knife tip, threw down flux and just dragged the iron across.
Fourth, fussing with the RF is a waste of time in 2019. It was pretty much a waste in 1989 lol. The composite leads are all you need worry about, as long as you have good picture there you're right as rain.
Fifth and final, if you're using 91% IPA you really need not worry about things being dry. Before I even open an NES I completely wet the board in the cartridge, run it in and out of the 72pin a few times, and power straight on. There's so little water in it you should never need to wait on it to dry.
Sorry for the novel, hope the read is helpful. Keep up the good work mate! ✌😄
Thanks for the advice :-)
He's doing it for the learning and the feels! I'd want the RF working right too.
@@Mymatevince I pretty much agree with James Buress,but with the power supply you cut too much"good" wire off,99.9% of the time the "break"in the "cable"as you call it is at the "strain relief"itself & a fast,simple way to find it is to pull on the wire until the other wire breaks !!!! Before soldering back on tie a knot behind the"strain relief"so that the "cable"can't pull out of the "strain relief" and undo all your hard work and possibly wreck the transformer leads rendering the unit irreparable !!!!!
@@richardanderson5109 The old SNES power brick had cables that were way too long anyways, that's one of the reasons these tend to break. So cutting off "too much good cable" really isn't an issue on them. They go faulty way more often than the older NES bricks do.
While I do agree with the RF being a waste of time I was practically yelling at the screen "Check the channel selector!" I remember mine in the US could switch between channel 3 and 4. Channel 4 always came in the clearest for me and 3 would "snow".
Just love to see when Vince says some device is well and lovely made. That’s when you understand that the joy of watching this videos is not the end result, but the process and the whole videos themselves
Good result Vince, well done. Just a couple of points: 1) You should be testing transformers in Resistance mode (Ohms) rather than continuity. The transformer coils are of low resistance which your meter will give a false indication (beep) of a short. (although, when it beeps, your meter will probably also display the resistance) 2) If a cable is tight fit in the strain relief, smearing the cable with a little bit of soap will help slide it through.
Thanks mate, I understand transformers now a little bit better from the comments in this video. Cheers for the tips :-)
Any time I see a Nintendo fix it video, I get excited. One of my favorite consoles.
If I remember correctly my friend had to say a little prayer before starting a game to get it to work. He also used to have some OCD-stuff going on like knocking the cartridge three times against the table etc :-). Thanks for your interesting videos. It's always nice to see how someone else is going about their repairs. I must admit, you seem to have a lot more patience than I do :-).
Good going Vince, watching you succeed is the best feeling. I love hearing the joy in your voice.
It's nice seeing someone trying to fix things instead of throwing it out and getting another one. Good job, means there is another working classic out there :)
man I have been trying to get my orginal nes's to work for 10 years thanks to your video I am not afraid of taking it apart and cleaning it,
Lovely video Vince! That part about shaking game while you play it make me smile :) And that adapter - what a result!
Vince is now a Certified Nintendo Entertainment System Specialist!
All of us are now, because we watched video about repairing one.
You sir are a genius. I couldn’t stop watching.
Using the RF in 2019 is pure love. I am doing it still. Also, I have manage to clean my 72 pin to that point that you do not even need to put the game down for it to work. :) Keep up the good work mate!
Great job sir! Glad to see the additional exploration on the power supply, and that this repair was done so thoroughly. It makes me want to pull my old NES down from it's cardboard home and do the same! I also like that working mat you have, might have to look into one for myself.
Now this era of electronics is what you should do more of! Awesome video!
Absolutely phenomenal repair! I love these videos but especially when you get it all working it just makes it that much sweeter!
Congratulations!
I loved this. It reminded me of what my dad used to do. You're probably my age but I used to watch my dad do stuff like this and it inspired me. I became the fix-it guy when at my house.
Nice repair mate!
Even though I would recommend using flux when reflowing the solder, saves you trouble further down the line.
And use a hot air!
Another fantastic video with a charming soundtrack. Thanks, Vince! I wish you lived closer, I got an Arkanoid cocktail arcade table that's having issues and I could use a hand!
This fix was absolutely amazing. I loved watching this video. Keep up the great content!!
I love that these extremely long nearly unedited videos still get a lot of traktion, somehow better content than the 5 minute 500 cuts talking heads.
My mate Vince: oh yeah I just used some household items just laying around (pulls out a nuclear power core)
@@Chrislee0709 Trash
pulls out a star
Pulls out the internet cable.
Gas
My favourite channel along with theretrofuture could watch you two all day. Keep it up vince!
Glad you got both the nes and the psu fixed as these classics are always great to keep on working and show what the great granddaddy of all the Nintendo consoles is like compared to the switch. The really cool thing about the old Nintendo consoles is that many of the power and av leads are completely interchangeable with each console - ie the nes and snes use practically the same psu's and the snes, n64 and gamecube all use the same av lead.
Cheers Danny, the PSU was particularly satisfying :-)
NO!!!
They do NOT use the same cables!
SNES/N64/GameCube use a "multiout" connector on the console side and yes they are the same "connector" on all SNES/N64/GameCube.
BUT there are changes in pinout for example using a ntsc cable on pal console will most likely lead to in best case tv/monitor/reciver have a burnt input but more likely the macigsmoke escaping.
pinouts.ru/Game/n64video_pinout.shtml
*CSYNC/Composite Sync is replaced by +12V on PAL SNES and PAL Gamecube consoles (But not the PAL N64)
I’m very sick and it’s a soothing to watch these
You could have measured the voltage from the adapter after cutting off the wires. So that you would have been sure that only the wire has gone faulty.
Of course you always have to be extremely careful because you're working with high voltages.
The outcoming cable is obviously bad as there is no continuity on the outer casing of the connector and the other end.
Also search google how transformers work, it's quite interesting and this one you have seems to be working ok.
Yep, the windings reads as a short because they are effectively a short for DC. You WANT to see a short when ohming the windings, as if you dont, it means the winding has a break. The transformer is perfectly fine, the wire is the one being bad. Replace the wire, and this would be a working power supply. It's a simple transformer, no electronics at all, so there's very little that can go wrong with these..
Vince, I don't know how you work on the floor like that, it hurts my lower back to think about it. Can we crowdsource a workbench for you?
I work on the floor to when i repair things
I do to sometimes when I need extra space and it's actually usually a nice change of pace.
I always repair stuff on the floor when im fixing more than one thing at once lol!
i also crouch and knee when i do things with my pc like change hardware clean etc
My ex could work on the floor no problem
"Super NES is the SNES, isn't it?" Yes, yes it is Vince.
You can buy replacement 'pin' sets for the NES. They're not very expensive and given how old, oxidized, and worn out they get after almost 40 years in makes sense to replace them.
Hey Vince, hoping all is well. I’m not sure if someone has already mentioned this to you in the comments, but what usually happens with these units is actually due to a flaw.
When you insert the cartridge, and lock the cartridge into place with the mechanism, it puts pressure on those pins. Over time, they start to lose a bit of their “spring”. That’s why all future cartridge systems from Nintendo are just a simple friction fit type connector without that push-down mechanism.
Best remedy would be to buy a replacement connector. But as someone who fixed several of these, you can actually get them to work again, by sticking a very thin object under the pins and bending them back into place ever so slightly.
You don’t want too much force as to dislocate them but just enough to the point that you see a slight difference between s treated and untreated pin.
Did this with my unit, and my pins are so tight that I don’t even need to push down on the locking mechanism to get them to play.
Get a hook pick set and bend each pin down gently, which helps grip the cart better and give a better connection. I've fixed many NES' like that.
Thanks Jay :-)
i remember when i was young , ive found a way to see thru walls in mario bros 2 , by shorting randoms contacts of the '' expantion port' with a wire , that was badass
How can I replicate this
Vince thanks for making this video.i have now fixed my nes after 10 years of it not working.new sub.whatched so many of your videos over the weekend great channel keep up the great work.Richie
Hi Vince! Going through some of your older videos just to get more of your content. It's been quite a while since you made this video so you've probably learned this by now, but in case you haven't I feel I should mention it. When you test for residual voltage, regardless if the device is AC or DC, you want to check with your meter set to DC since only DC can be stored.
The only occasion I can think of where you would want to test for AC on something that has been disconnected from the mains is if there is a Fan or Pump that is still moving due to air or water flow. In those cases, the spinning motor is a generator, and if they are AC motors, AC is what they will generate.
Just say an hour for extra pauses moments
It’s fucked.
Dont touch it
So glad you looked into the adapter further and stripped the sheath back to find the root cause of the problem. Great fix 👍
Nothing better than watching something broken coming back to life.
Very impressive and inspiring work! 😊 You didn't give up until everything was working
Dude that was awesome. The entire time you were fixing the adapter I kept saying "Work, work, work, work" so happy it did :D
Yet another legendary fix from a legendary RUclipsr! That power adapter fix also highlighted your profession extremely well!
I am running out of specific titles to give you... I may just simply call you "Jack of All Trades" from now on!
I remember it being inconsistent right out of the box back in the day...LOL. Lots of putting the game cartridges underneath my shirt and blowing into it to make it work. Nice video and great job!!
Awesome work, Vince!!! You did an outstanding job with all faults!!!
Be careful of just adding solder to a joint. Unleaded solder mixed with leaded solder will have the properties changed and go very soft, watched it on Ipad Rehab. Love your vids and keep them coming.
This was a great video, I love it when a repair goes this well!
Maybe you should take a look at "retrobrighting" and get the NES looking as good as new by de-yellowing it.
It's a really simple process, you just need a bottle of peroxide creme, a clear plastic bag (vaccum bags work well) and an afternoon of sunshine.
The last bit I know is a push for us Brits 😂.
He's done a video on retrobrighting. Its a good video!
"I just want it to work every single time" - You're asking a lot of the NES there, my friend :D
I do think you got it about as good as it gets without modification/replacement though!
"I just want it to work every single time" - Me as a kid from 1990-1994
So true
so much this
the NES zero force slot is not very reliable because of its design, asking it to work everytime is indeed asking way too much for such a faulty slot design
Well I bended the pins in mine and it always works I don't even have to push down and it still has the lockout pin on it
@@glitchenz for how long though? That's the fault of the design
VINCENT this is going to be a good one. 1am here in Australia and I should be getting to bed but a new episode of the MMV show has come out and it's sure to be a banger. Mad lad!
Safety tip, if you see any huge capacitors, make sure you take a screwdriver with a non-conductive handle and touch the leads of the capacitor to discharge them, that removes the charge so it removes any chance of you getting zapped by it
Every time Vince uses that particular speed up music, I think of the song "Are you happy now, somewhere in the crowd".
Just fixed my NES power brick after watching your video (same issue, broken cable) Thanks!!
Amazing video vince i used to love playing duck hunt and the old mario on this when i was younger i can't even remember what happened to my NES i had not a clue but it was well loved epic video mate keep it up! :D
Retro repairs rulez!! Vince, you shold get some speccy from eBay and give them love, it's a really simple machine to understand and to fix, not to say a piece of history of UK and Europe, you could show your kids that not only USA and Japan where once leaders on home entertainment! :D
Haha, I have, I got one form the same seller, a Spectrum 128k. I got it the same time as an Atari 2600 back in 2018. I haven't even tried turning it on yet....I will save that for the video to see what is wrong with it :-)
@@Mymatevince A toastrack?? Man, those nowadays cost a fortune!! Hope to see it working someday!! It's the only one I miss on my collection, I have the 48k, +, +2, +2A and +3, but the toastrack is extremely expensive, a broken one is about 150€ and a good working one can cost up to 500€...
No....sorry, Spectrum +2 128K I think it is. It is not a rare one which may be just as well if I am fixing it lol. I only ever had the 48K when I was young so I don't know much about the newer ones :-)
@@Mymatevince Ok, that's the one I had when I was young, the grey one (the +2 is grey and the datasette controls are printed in the keys, the +2A is black(ish) and has the datasette controls printed on top of the keys). Nice machines also :D
Thanks, I can't remember whether it was grey or black. I can't even remember what the fault was on it. What I do remember though is that I bought one of my favourite games for it.....Bruce Lee....I used to love that game :-)
Maybe... just maybe... your next ebay purchase should be a cheap workbench ;)
GOOD THINKING!
That's floorist.
It would have to be a faulty workbench....
Corp0ralPunishment good thinking.
Great video Vince =D
Regards the cart slot issue, the problem is they kind of bend a bit over time so the edge connections don't join very well. You can have success using very fine sand paper in and out of that slot there. Some people boil the connector for 5 or 10 minutes too and that seems to work. You can replace them with new ones! There are some modern replacements for that cart connector too!
You measured continuity on both contacts on the transformer there because a transformer winding is almost a short. It will be a low resistance between both contacts. The connectors (or cable) fail on these very frequently! I've fixed several of them that have had a damaged cable or connector!
One of the main reasons the wires break is people tightly fold and bind the wires for storage (ie. almost 90 degress back on itself).
Thanks for the top tips Chris :-)
Nice fault finding on the power supply Vince... another good video... keep them coming
I'm actually jealous of the reliability you have with the games working there. I remember we would sit down and attempt to make it work by any kind of means necessary for however long it took for us to just change our mind about playing a game on that console lol. Sometimes we were lucky, and when we were, someone would stomp on the ground and all our efforts were gone XD
24:30 On a double sided board, you may see traces jumping from one side to the other. Those 'dots' are called vias.
[Edit: A via is a tiny barrel-like object that protrudes through the board itself, is a connecting 'hole'. Nowadays, they do not have solder on them, but before they put them there due to the difficulty of ensuring continuity, or to ensure electrical stability by adding conductive mass.]
change the pin. I use to refurbusb these 15 years ago and resell them on ebay. The one's I use to get all had power, i would clean and change pin worked no problem sold. that was great will you be reselling it now that it is working again. EXCELLENT!!!!
Bloody genius - 1 on the RF to phono adaptor and another on the AC adaptor.
Well done Vince
Great job with fault finding! Congrats from arkansas, US
Just a tip normally you will find when a cable breaks it's nearly always near where it goes into the device where the strain relief is. The reason why it read on both ends near the transformer is that the transformer winding are a low resistance and so it beeps on both sides when just connected to the good end of the cable. Good repair great job.
Thankyou very much for the tip at 39:23 about how to get the disk holder to seat. Was trying to reassemble my nes and was having trouble at that step!!
I learned something new watching your video. I never knew what that rubber casing on the power supply was called. "Strain Relief" huh? Well, in the US, our NES power supplies were a bit different. The power supply brick went right into the outlet. I think that design caused the wire to be more vulnerable to movement, because I remember going through a few AC adapters when I was a kid. The issue usually starts with a loss of power, which goes away if you jiggle the cable. Then it progressed needing to position the cable a certain way and taping it to the brick so it wouldn't move. Eventually, it would just fail completely due to total breakage.
Yesss finally the Good old NES Made an appearance in your video’s. Loved this one. Keep to this old stuff and switches mate, leave the HDMI consoles to Steve hahaha.
But then Vince wouldn't learn new things. He's always on the hunt for new knowledge, and that comes with trying to fix new things.
zhaquiri you have a Good point with one flaw: you CAN gain new knowledge from fixing old things. 👍
@@etiennevanharen3893 I never said old things didn't provide new knowledge, it's just that his scope would be limited, because he'll be stuck with old boards.
The solder balls as you called them are through-hole plated via's and do not require solder, they have solder in them as the board was wave soldered.
Vince thought this was a great video. I used it to help trouble Why it my nes and it helped loads. Many thanks 👍👍
Thanks for this video Vince, I'm considering stripping my working NES and doing some Retro Bright (once I work out the best way to do that) on it and this may help me out.
believe me , you dont need small fingers to get zapped with those plugs , i have hands like shovels and I`ve been zapped by them many times . I`m an electronics engineer that restores reel to reel tape recorders and many of them come with those plugs on and I`m way too lazy to remove them before I repair the decks . lol . Be careful Vince , you will get zapped by one eventually if you keep using them !
A tip: If you want to slide something inside something, use soap. It will allow it to go inside and once it dries it's ok (instead of using oil as an example). That's used for example to mount new grips on a bicycle or motorbike.
Nice! i love to see old tech get fixed up working good!
Back in the day I used to repair these as part of my job. You did great! How about a follow up video getting rid of the yellowing from the plastic. Seen some other retro repair vids doing this. Hydrogen peroxide or other commercial products seem to work
I always get a smile on my lips when I see you work. Do you not have no table to sit at instead of on the floor? Like you're stubborn as a Siberian husky and rarely gives up.
I think you need some retro brightening on that case. Keep up the great work. 👍🏻👍🏻
About that, it was just discovered that all you need is to leave it under the sun, no chemical;
ruclips.net/video/8P1OVj0IcqY/видео.html
Vince. I know everyone is yelling about getting a workbench. But the way you make your videos is unique. I personally really enjoy how you do them. Keep it up my friend!
Also. Have you considered trying to fix a faulty N64? Thatd be sweet
Lol, I love how proud you are of yourself, and rightly so ! :D
FYI: When you disable the lockout chip, you dont have to press the cart down anymore bending the pins down. :)
True. Yet I am not a big fan of disabling the lockout chip. It voids the authenticity of the console.
Disabling the lockout chip is a bad idea. Best to leave it alone.
To each their own. Yes it might void the authenticity, but I'm keeping my system till it dies or I die. I understand though that there are people who want to keep things 100%.
I used to clean the connectors on these NES systems all the time. You don't need to take it apart or anything. All you need is a pencil. Shave the pencil tip to a flat edge so it's the width of the cartridge edge connector. The lead should be in the center with some wood on either side. Stick it in the NES connector pins and run it site to side for a while and test your cart. That is it, beats any other method.
One of my favourite videos so far, I still don't understand why your back to working on the floor.
Awesome job, Vince! It makes me want to dust off my original NES and try to get it working.
Do it
I am very impressed! Thank you for sharing this footage.
Awesome! I have the NES mini and it looks just like this one except it does not take cartridges as the games are built into the board. You can download more games to it through your computer which is neat. A+ video:)
Vince is on a roll!
Great video. Nice to see one of these on the channel.
Thanks :-)
@@Mymatevince You're welcome.
7:21 I did exactly this, trying to pry a plug out of an outlet using a butter knife when I was about six years old. Gave myself a good wallop.
Wonderful fixes, Vince! I was way more surprised that you got the power supply working!!! Nintendo sure get the award for the worst cartridge design when it comes to the NES!! I have never had problems with Atari 2600 and other older systems and the NES systems were failing within the first year of release! I remember me and my buddies trying to clean the carts with alcohol and blowing in the cart and it was awful! I'm glad they learned their lesson with going forward!!! Trying to make something more fancy doesn't mean it will work well!
Thanks Jim, I really liked the power supply fault. I like it when you can see a fault and then you know it is fixed. I hate intermittent faults because you are never really sure if it is fixed or if it will reoccur :-)
Great job. With all due respect to your effort on the NES, but I think the fixing of the PSU is more enjoyable. Your background in telecomm is highly respected.
Mine was damaged by some previous "repairer" and all I got was a grey screen. When I took the carriage out to work on the socket, I found a wire had been added to the board, then I noticed a cut track. On closer inspection an adjacent track had also been cut. I added a second wire to bridge that break. I used my SNES power supply as the NES didn't come with one. Yes, NES and SNES used the same power supply. The secondary (low voltage winding) has a low resistance so a continuity tester will show a short. Usually the primary (240V) fails and a short in the secondary can cause the primary to fail.
the intermittent problem is most likely being caused by the slot-contacts being bent out of shape, preventing them from properly gripping the cartridge-contacts
Its an NES. It'll NEVER work EVERY time. if you want it to work every time, buy a Blinking Light Win. its a replacement for the cartridge tray that works much more reliably, and removes the "locking" part of the tray (which is the main cause of degradation for the original cart slot).
Exactly. Blinking Light Win for the win.
VINCE: *looks at stuff from over 30 years ago* WOW!!
ME: ?
Very good Video. This is the best "How to fix"-Channel i know. Please try more :-) Best Greetings from Berlin / Germany
46:00 the testing method won't be different if it's used for AC or DC. The continuity buzz you saw when both active and neutral were connected to the transformer would have been through the transformer winding. The bell function on the multimeter still buzzes if there is a few ohms of resistance. You would need to look at the measurement on the screen to see if it is measuring through the transformer winding (broken conductor will give a non-zero reading) or from a good conductor (near zero reading)
Vince you have mentioned in the past about your BT background, maybe you could do a video detailing your Career why you left & what you do for work now. I for one would be interested to know the background.
You r a genius 👍 now you have two good working nes systems 😎 that's impressive
To top it all off u fixed the adaptor! Wow that's unreal.... What talent... Good stuff mate that's real tech work for sure 👍
All this time watching vince's videos and still learning something new everytime, in this case it's that vince has freckled arms lol
It’s good to reuse and restore retro consoles. Good job👍
Hi Vince thanks for the entertaining vids future help notes: 41:51 never trust test/check against an unknown zero when checking for live voltage/stored voltage(capacitors), good practice for your own safety dude..... use a known zero reference e.g. Earth point. could of still been live if damaged circuit(lightly different circuit with caps): Transformer 42:29 looks like you were reading the small ohmic resistance of transformer secondary winding ....not a short that's why your meter buzzed, set to read lowest ohmic value if you can for a true reading to help fault find, hope this helps, thanks for the great entertainment dude n keep up the good work please.Ellis
Thanks for the advice, so I could use the earth from the screws in a wall power outlet or light switch, basically a separate earth from the actual equipment that I am testing, is this correct?
Hi Vince, Yes but (always a but) Never trust what you think something is, where your life is involved, double check, always pre-prove test Earth Point is a zero potential you are using, (takes two ticks),
If you don't check Worst case e.g.....:- wall box/screws may not be earthed, wall box/screws may be live..... and insulated from Ground/Earth,
- Say your checking voltage with a meter from Screws to a potential Live 230vac you think you've isolated.
They may be /= the same...... so no potential difference/voltage..... meter reads zero volts, (cause they are both the same live same source)
so you end up working on a live circuit and don't realise....... due to an unproved/ tested earth point.....
(note the above e'g. if circuit had RCD should be picked up leakage, or with a neon screwdriver even could be used to double check no live, you may use different safety equipment to check if circuit is live dependent on scenario, case by case..)
Hope the above makes sense, i waffled on a bit.Ellis
Thanks Ellis, yes that makes sense :-)
@@Mymatevince SCREW all that"hunting earth",grounds,etc,etc,build,buy an"Isolation Transformer" and never have to worry about shorts,electrocution ever again !!!!! If you're still uncertain,use the"one hand rule !!! GOOD LUCK & QUIT GOING DOWN ALL THOSE DEAD ENDS !!!! You'll get done a lot quicker,you are an excellent"tinkerer" !!!! Not to be mean,take a"basic"electronics class,it will help you immensely,check out "Mr. Carlsons Laboratory"an excellent source of tips and detailed explanations of the work being done !!! Follow my suggestions and you'll be beating the pants off the "pro"here in the states . I'm an American but I'm always pulling for the"u derdog",again .....GOOD LUCK !!!! You tell 'em "Handy Andy Pops"said so !!!!!