This tool is not really meant to sharpen ceramic and concrete bits. You will totally wreck it if you are trying to sharpen a carbide insert like the one on the concrete bit. This tool is for sharping wood and metal bits. But it was funny to watch you try and drill a nice hole with the ceramic tile drill bit. lol
Left hand chuck is to sharpen "left hand" drill bits or those that turn counter clockwise. They still sell those types of bits. You just use the "reverse" function on your drill (if you have one) for bits that cut counter clockwise. Sometimes can drill into a broken bolt and get 'er out if the bit grabs hold of it. Righty tighty, lefty loosey bolts.
I was laughing when he implied the left hand one was for left handed people. I'm glad you said something. That and the "mote" misspelling on the bottom of the screen was bugging me.
If one wishes to drill a hole down the center of one's workpiece on a typical CNC lathe, one will generally need a left-hand twist bit unless the lathe's headstock rotation is reversible. That is typically not the case. The headstock of a CNC lathe usually turns clockwise when viewed from the tailstock, which is the right way when applying a cutting tool from "above" the work (or "away" from the operator) like the tool turret of a Mazak or Mori Seiki, but the wrong wrong way for a right-hand twist bit held in the turret by a chuck adapter. For extracting broken bolts, one gets the best result by using either a right-hand or left-hand twist bit to drill a hole in the bolt fragment and then by using an easy-out.
Went to buy one and found out the 240v ones are $500-700 and not in USD but i can get a 120v shipped to me for $160nzd (to run an adapter or to not)...such a difference in price for no real change
I bought one and it didn't work. I sent it back. The replaced it. It took a long time to do a scraggly bit. This is because the motor is feeble. I don't use it any more. I bought the "Ask Woodman" jig. It takes some practice to get speedy but the bench grinder @ 1/2 or 3/4 horse power takes care of biz.
I noticed that you held the bit in for an extended amount of time. Like on a standard grinding wheel, here too it can overheat and tempering the metal too much.
the first step setting the depth, you skipped aligning it to the corisponding angle in the seccond step, the first only has one marking, the seccond step only has 2 markings, still not enoufgh but better than the One 118 marking you missed.
Good video TRZ! It looks like it really works! Although I think it looks pretty confusing and takes a lot of time to sharpen a bit. At more than $130 I don't think I would buy it as new bits are cheap enough and don't require a ton of time to sharpen lol. Keep up the good work Clint!
What's up Brandon! Yeah I can understand that. I would say if you were in masonry or something that uses a lot of bits on a days basis this would be a great investment, but definitely not for everyone
I just bought a new Irwin 3/4" bit. It was $24. The 11/16" was $22. 5/8 was $19. There is nothing cheap about drill bits. I have the 750 and I sharpen a bit in 3 minutes or less. That $130 was well worth it to me. Would do it again in a heartbeat if my machine died.
I. Like I also have an attachment that plugs into your drill sharpen drill bits I still got my old corded Black & Decker I can use for that might just picked me one of these up soon own too many drill bits if you need to join a group drill bits anonymous lol
watched all the videos on how to use this crap machine and still found it to be a waste of time and money, even if it worked it takes so long to sharpen 1 drill bit, can buy a lot of new bits with the money i wasted buying the rubbish machine
Yes it does works great. Sharpened bits today drilled right through 1/2 inch steel
Concrete bit in wood????
I was coming to comment this as well...this didn't show me anything lol
"look how dull this bit is" Hahahaha!
Not clear why you used a concrete carbide drill bit to sharpen and then drill a hole in wood.
What other angles than 118 and 135 do you need? And why are you drilling wood with masonry bits?
because, why not?
This tool is not really meant to sharpen ceramic and concrete bits. You will totally wreck it if you are trying to sharpen a carbide insert like the one on the concrete bit. This tool is for sharping wood and metal bits. But it was funny to watch you try and drill a nice hole with the ceramic tile drill bit. lol
concrete bits your suppose to plunge and not put in the alignment side... use the detents on the chuck its self
Left hand chuck is to sharpen "left hand" drill bits or those that turn counter clockwise. They still sell those types of bits. You just use the "reverse" function on your drill (if you have one) for bits that cut counter clockwise. Sometimes can drill into a broken bolt and get 'er out if the bit grabs hold of it. Righty tighty, lefty loosey bolts.
I was laughing when he implied the left hand one was for left handed people. I'm glad you said something. That and the "mote" misspelling on the bottom of the screen was bugging me.
If one wishes to drill a hole down the center of one's workpiece on a typical CNC lathe, one will generally need a left-hand twist bit unless the lathe's headstock rotation is reversible. That is typically not the case. The headstock of a CNC lathe usually turns clockwise when viewed from the tailstock, which is the right way when applying a cutting tool from "above" the work (or "away" from the operator) like the tool turret of a Mazak or Mori Seiki, but the wrong wrong way for a right-hand twist bit held in the turret by a chuck adapter.
For extracting broken bolts, one gets the best result by using either a right-hand or left-hand twist bit to drill a hole in the bolt fragment and then by using an easy-out.
Went to buy one and found out the 240v ones are $500-700 and not in USD but i can get a 120v shipped to me for $160nzd (to run an adapter or to not)...such a difference in price for no real change
Do it. The 750 is well worth it. I have it and am really glad I do.
Yes it works I use one at work and it makes my job easier
It’s my understanding that when you do 135° you need to originally set up the bed by putting in the chuck Holder one night to the right
I wouldn't trust this guy's review of any tool.
How do you determine the angle if you no longer have this information?
Try metal drilling bits , you can drill wood even with dull bits
I bought one and it didn't work. I sent it back. The replaced it. It took a long time to do a scraggly bit. This is because the motor is feeble. I don't use it any more. I bought the "Ask Woodman" jig. It takes some practice to get speedy but the bench grinder @ 1/2 or 3/4 horse power takes care of biz.
I noticed that you held the bit in for an extended amount of time. Like on a standard grinding wheel, here too it can overheat and tempering the metal too much.
"sharpening" masonry bits 🤣🤣🤣🤣
the first step setting the depth, you skipped aligning it to the corisponding angle in the seccond step, the first only has one marking, the seccond step only has 2 markings, still not enoufgh but better than the One 118 marking you missed.
I just bought mine from Runnings for $100 . They aren’t selling so are being discontinued 👍🏻
I have the original drill doctor. Honestly it is still in the box
I’m in the market for one, would you sell it?
Masonry bits typically arent very sharp being that they typically rely on the hammer functions of the drill... but thanks for the demo!
Good video TRZ! It looks like it really works! Although I think it looks pretty confusing and takes a lot of time to sharpen a bit. At more than $130 I don't think I would buy it as new bits are cheap enough and don't require a ton of time to sharpen lol. Keep up the good work Clint!
What's up Brandon! Yeah I can understand that. I would say if you were in masonry or something that uses a lot of bits on a days basis this would be a great investment, but definitely not for everyone
I just bought a new Irwin 3/4" bit. It was $24. The 11/16" was $22. 5/8 was $19. There is nothing cheap about drill bits. I have the 750 and I sharpen a bit in 3 minutes or less. That $130 was well worth it to me. Would do it again in a heartbeat if my machine died.
@@marcbroussard2433 That's why I'm here 2 years later looking at the Drill Doctor. Excellent comment.
The original version works just fine
Yeah I did not see you sharpen a mason bit Kenneth said you would what did I miss it was it so fast
The original version works just fine
I. Like I also have an attachment that plugs into your drill sharpen drill bits I still got my old corded Black & Decker I can use for that might just picked me one of these up soon own too many drill bits if you need to join a group drill bits anonymous lol
I'm sure there is a support group somewhere for those with punctuation phobias. Reach out to them when you are ready.
this one looks pretty nice had a cheap version and it that great!
Yeah actually works much better than I thought It would, and not hard to use either
Don't rotate your your masonary bit in yhe Drill Doctor 750 Cinton... Just align and oish Only 😬
BS on the SDS
The split point did the cutting ffs
Please never sharpen a drill for stone.. You can kill the sharpeningwheel.
Get a green grit wheel for carbide
You’re pushing to hard to drill wood with the resharpen bit…
Bsharpening
Lousy explanation.
Lousy comment....do better
Amateur reviews are not a good look.
watched all the videos on how to use this crap machine and still found it to be a waste of time and money, even if it worked it takes so long to sharpen 1 drill bit, can buy a lot of new bits with the money i wasted buying the rubbish machine