This worked for me! And the best part is you described the history with this tool and I felt like you were describing my experience exactly! Had it for 10 yrs, never worked right, tried it every so often, and just about to toss it. Now I can get a sharp bit so many thanks.
Thank you for the time you've invested in making this very informative video. I could never understand why some of my split point drill bits didn't work after sharpening, although I did realize the clamping points of the Drill Doctor are off when you try to align these bits. I had a look at my problem bits and they were all either 90 deg or beyond (positive angle). It took me only a couple of minutes to correct them and they now drill better than new. I also agree with you that some split points are just not suitable when re-doing them on the split point side of the machine, unless you remove a lot of material. Thanks again, and never mind the negative comments, it is the content that matter, which came through very clearly. People must rather take the positive out of other people's time and effort in stead of complaining. Well done mate! Just a last comment from my side, I have the smaller 500X-model, and the motor is definitely under-powered if you do split points on larger drill bits.
Wow! This worked very well on my basic no extra optiona drill doctor! I just marked the drill in relation to the holder and rotated the drill slightly. Went from impossible through 1/8 plate, to fairly well!
Thank you so much for the time and effort you put into this vid! It answered so many of my questions. I, too, have shelved my DD750X until today because of every item you mention. Armed with this info, I’m ready to go forth and conquer
Good Job figuring this out!!! Saved me the headache of figuring out the fix myself!!! I appreciate the time you took to gather information, figure out the issue and the fix, as well as the time to make this video. There is a lot of useful information here!
I’ve had the drill doctor for years and never knew about adjusting the plus and minus and you solve the problem my head. I was getting perfectly sharp drill bits that did not work. Thank you thank you thank you! I must’ve watched 20 video showing me how to do it the way I was already doing it but yours solve the problem.
Best thing I did initially was to wrap some amalgamation tape around the drill bit holder collar for grip as it’s hard and uncomfortable to use. Reduces thumb joint fatigue. Made all the difference on multiple sharpens. A light wipe of lubrication around the contact areas also smooths things out when turning the bit holder.
I am so happy. Like you, I've had the thing for at least 10 years. I could fiddle with it and get a usable point after a few minutes each drill for most drill bits, not all. I just sharpened 10 drills in less than 10 minutes. Chisel point angle is the key I've been missing.
Sorry that anyone was critical of your performance! You answered my confusion in a way that nobody else has. I’m a 40 year career builder and I use drill bits in all materials. I bought the drill doctor five years ago and have been plagued by the inconsistent results. I never stopped to check the chisel angle. I also carry a job site standard twist drill kit in my drill box that I frequently replace broken or lost bits so the bits have different manufacturers and of course different flutes. One will be sharp and the next useless! The only part of your video I didn’t grasp was visualizing the alignment. Maybe when I start sharpening and correcting I’ll see it. Thanks for taking the time to figure this out. Drill doctor should thank you and consider providing a professional how to video titled” why this tool sometimes sucks!”
Thank you so much! I bought my Drill doctor about the same time you did. Your video showed me what to look for! I just sharpened several solid carbide bits. Awesome!
I believe your solutions are so important so as a new video is very important as soon as you can do it. Just try to be more organized, have a script to help you - and show far more closeups of the guide Jaws, the notches - and the tips of the drill bits. Showing the drill tips against a white paper seems to work very well. Looking forward to that video. I'm sure many people have run across the same problems you have and would like to know EXACTLY how to correct them. Like I said, tell your viewers that, if the drill bit looks like 'this' - then do this to correct. If the drill tip looks like 'that' - then do that to correct it. I can see several problems as you point out. You'll help a LOT of people with your knowledge. Please let me know when I can see your updated video. Thanks again - I hope you don't wait long! 😁😁😁😁😁
I agree! I loved the easy going presentation. It landed 100% with me. I will look to see if you made an updated video but that would simply be icing on the cake. Great job!
Wow! Great detective work. I have all the same problems you mentioned. I never considered the split point throwing off the alignment when "clocking" the bit in the metal tabs. That certainly has to be my issue. I'm going to align to the virtual flutes as you did. I'm certain that will fix my issues. Thanks!
I have a 10 year + old Drill Doctor that I've never used. After watching your video I might attempt to use it, thanks. I've been using a General/Craftsman that attaches to the bench in front of the wheel/belt in my case. It works like a charm AFTER I figured out how to set it up. The relief angles are set in notches so you can't adjust them. The lip stop was a pain so I removed it. I replaced all the adjusters with 1/4 - 20 L bolts. The DD is overly complicated and looks sloppy in the sharpening mode, not a precision machine. JMO.
When I got my drill Dr. in 2012 it came with a Dvd. (It's now on youtube also). I watched the video, and sharpened a bit. I was happy as hell & did them all. The setup is different to what it "seems" like it should be so the directions are very important to watch. I only sharpen bits for metal drilling.
Great video. I spent a few hours on mine a year or so ago and figured out the same problems/fixes that you have documented. For the angle - I position the cutting edges and 3 and 9 o'clock and shoot for the tip angle between 1 and 2 o'clock (1:30 would be 45 degrees). I can remember the clock setup easier than thinking in degrees.
Thank you, using this “understanding” of the drill doctor and how drill bits actually work I was able to successfully re-sharpen all the bits I had initially tried to sharpen on the drill doctor. Thank you for taking the time to explain how bits should look when sharpened.
Dude this work for me thank you so much. Did exactly like you said it and imagining if the flute was still there rather than the split point and it works every time
correct, it is really all about the combination of the depth of the grab (amount of material to be removed to reach the correct relief ) and on what rotation position we started at, for that, any of the following does compensate, 1. how deep the stop is, 2. the relief angle choice, 3. over or under rotating the drill position
I have fought my unit for years. It was obvious I had lack of relief issues but always blamed myself for some improper technique. Never considered the chisel angle as I couldn't past relief angle problems. While there are many videos about the use of these machines, at best they're limited to rudimentary function. The Darex videos are joke and a disservice to customers in their resolution, lack of detail and non-existant display of process. Your video was just what I needed in terms of affirmation of the alignment system being flawed. Thanks to you I'm now on the road to recovery!! Good luck with your tremors. Same here, bonafide head bobber.
Cheers to the creator of this vid for working this out for lots of owners of the DD, but I think this fault has been corrected. I bought my DD just last year(the big one) and sharpened 20 years worth of collected dril bits. After seeing this vid I went out to check all the bits and the angle looks greater than 90deg off the zero setting. It's not 135deg (on the zero setting), it's looks to be about 110-115deg off zero. If you turn it +1 it looks to be a bit more like 145deg . I absolutely love this thing. Never had any experience with other brands but this is definitely worth buying.
Thanks Grevo for this information!! I´ve stored my 500X for 5 yrs since I never understood why it wasn´t consistent. I have had all the problems that you described, and it was well worth 40 minutes to be able to understand Drill Doctor flaws. I have tested several bits and I can handle it now. This saved me $300+ since I was just about to throw DD in the garbage bin and buy a Vevor MR-13B.
Considering that Grevo has useful information NOT FOUND elsewhere, I suck up my frustration with his rambling presentation - and watch, listen and learn. Thank you Grevo!
Thanks man. I'm not a film director and have a narrow base of things I'm good at so I apologize for the production quality but appreciate the feedback.
This video helped me save a lot of headaches trying to figure out what I would do wrong and I would definitely have messed up without this advice. After watching this, I took off using mine the first time going in and got perfect results.
You were spot on and wasn’t bored at all. This taught me what was actually required to sharpen a drill bit regardless of the method. Armed with that information, I knew how to approach the Drill Doctor. Thank you.
You obviously did a lot of work in analyzing what was wrong and how to fix it. However, the presentation was awful because you weren't organized AND without closeups of the drill bits, the viewers couldn't see what you're talking about. Also, your hands moved so fast back and forth, the viewer had no time to focus on the points you were trying to make. I would really like to see this tutorial done over again because your information is of enormous value. Please try again - your analysis deserves it. Thank you for the effort.
Thank you for the feedback! I not much of a vidographer and am working in that area. Maybe once I have some better skills and equipment I will try and re shoot the video. I still need more practice in that area first.
Very good video really helps clarify the sharpening process! Another way which may help simplify the thinking about it is to think about looking at them as the 9:00-1:30ish positions on a clock face.
I spent 3 days becoming pissed off about ready to return it. Finally some good info on this- THANK YOU! I'm shaking my for the fact drill doctor can't explain the process better with their own product! That's sad
Thanks for doing this video, I haven't use my Drill Doctor in years, I will give it a try again, after watching your video. Mine is of the first generations DD
I am working at vocational school in Finland and have had issues w/ Drilldoctor. Even I have worked as CNC-machinst +10years, I havent learned to sharpen drill bits by handwork. With your experiences and guiding I may be able to solve Drilldoctor issues. But after problem is solved, anorher one comes ahead. Who will sharpen all dull drill bits. Because there is hundreds of them. 😂 I have been focused to drill's center which has been round. And thought that splitting would solve main issues. I also has been thinking that those grippers may be reason but havent really focused to that issue so sharp as you. I got some results by first doing very aggressive splitting and then sharpening drill bit with that main slot. I got some ideas. Maybe those drill bit grippers needs kind of "socks" or "gloves" to follow shape. Maybe they would be printed with 3D printer. Also linening would be possible if drill bit is turned 90⁰ and lined with other mark on drill bit holder. Or new 3D printed equipment would be created.
How, a very educational video. Your illustrations and sample bits are a valuable resource for understanding the angles and terminology for beginners and old hands alike. A great tool for this type of work is a bench top, illuminated magnifying glass (the type with a stand) to better see the cutting edges and chisel tip, especially when doing smaller bits.
There is one other thing that you didn’t mention and that is there are two marks on the bit point holder that should be in line with the chisel point angle to help you eyeball the correct angle. Mine is new and maybe they didn’t have that on the older ones.
Essentially the grinding end grinds a sort of mitre-shaped profile, and the purpose of the setup jig is to position the drill in the collet so the top of the mitre (which forms the chisel point) has the correct angle relative to the flutes. There will be a certain zone down either side of the mitre shape that produces the correct relief angle, and if the drill is in the collet correctly, these zones end up at the leading edge of the flute where the cutting edge is. If the drill is not in the collet properly you get either too much or too little relief angle at the cutting edge. The angular relationship between these correct-relief zones and the chisel tip are fixed by the geometry of the cams on the side of the collet, so you cannot adjust the relief angle without changing the chisel point angle and vice versa. Both of your methods (eyeballing the position of the continuation of the back edge of the flute, or placing the collet in a different notch of the setup hole) rotate the angle of the chisel edge, and by placing the chisel edge at near the correct angle, you also arrange that the relief angle is near the correct one. Also, as you chose to grind more or less off the end of the drill, the orientation of the chisel point does not change relative to the collet, but where the flutes meet the ground surface does rotate because of the helix angle of the flutes. As you grind deeper the chisel point angle (as you define it) decreases.
Impressive analysis, but I have no clue what the conclusion is. Is his method wrong? I’m still halfway into this loooooooooooooooooong video, so maybe it’ll all make sense when I’m done watching.
@@henrikm4657 Until I actually try it out for real, I would not venture to say anything is right or wrong. The positioning mechanism in the Drill Doctor will definitely be fooled by split points, especially if you are trying to grind off just a bit, so it would be necessary to adjust for this somehow.
Kevin had the right idea. In short terms the reason a drill doctor isn't working for you comes down to positioning in the collet. That positioning affects more then the cut quality but the overall geometry of the bit. Without placing in the collet correctly the bit will not have the correct geometry to cut properly
Just purchased the Drill Doctor because it is the best ever Ha! I've been spending several hours with mixed results. I'm finding the relief angle & chisel angle have a relationship, unfortunately the inconsistency is making me crazy 🙂Awesome video & very helpful.
I have two Drill Doctors. Thanks very much that explained a lot of the problems ive seen. As far as splitting the point mine seems to be off to one side about .003" when i roll it over to cut the other side. Like the chuck is holding the bit off center but it centers the cutting edges fine. Within.0001".
They key is to seat the drill chuck fully into the set-up port. If you are not deep enough the grind will leave a high spot behind the lip. Of course the Drill Doctor will never do as good a job as a commercial drill sharpener. Also if the flutes are damaged behind the LIP the only thing you can do is cut off the damaged portion and grind a new tip.
I had figured also the split tip was causing all the alignment issues, and I wanted to see what youtube had to say, in order of being corrected. You are spot on and I was so impressed on you staying the course to explain all of this. I believe at the just under 32 minute mark is the most important spot on your video for people to understand, you had explained it well but because when you are showing that spot with your awl, we are unable to see that it is a split point. The place you are showing looks like the normal fluting of the bit only because it is hard to see. So if you ever wish to do another Video if somehow you are able to get a different angle with the light or use white paper as the background like someone suggested even though I think it would still be hard to see, just being able to show it in a way that you can make it more visible so that we can see that it does have a split tip, to know exactly what you were pointing at where you were trying to draw an imaginary line across where the edge of the flute would normally have been. May God Bless you and I love you man. This is a video that all Drill Doctor owners should see so that they have an understanding why theirs does not work. I believe so many people give up and either never use it again or send it back for refund.
Unless you absolutely need split points or different angles, just buy a DD350 which is easy to operate. I have both and only use the 750 for large bits, split points or special angles.
Good info. Don't sweat the grief in the comments. If a person is completely ignorant about a drill bit you probably lost them. If they have a clue you didn't. I have been using a drill doctor for awhile and it takes getting used. It will cut the split point ok but it won't be to the same contour as most production bits because they use a large diameter grinding stone.
Thanks for figuring that out and sharing it. The adjustment knob on the amount removed from the bit when sharpening will also affect the heal I believe. That was good observation you noticing the difference in the flutes. The manufacturers video don't even come close to yours. They would be wise to use your video or pay you to make one for them.
Just bought one of these so not experienced…. Didn’t understand a word of this on the first pass. Will pick the bones out with further watching. Comments suggest good results. A simple do this or do that would be far better for non drill nerds 👍.
Liked your video, very interesting and helpful 😊. I borrowed my brother out-law's Drill Doctor and I managed to get my largest bit somewhat okay 😢, 9/16 . . . and the other 100 were destroyed 😮. At this point of time, I absolutely HATE THAT THING, I compare it to Jack the Ripper for drill bits, LoL!. So, now I am going to try it again, but maybe not before the New Year 🎉😂, don't want to completely destroy the last part of this year, 2023🎉. If any when I get over my PTSD from the last time I used the "Drill Doctor", I will be sure to share with you the outcome, or if I decide to trash my brother out-law's Drill Doctor. Take care
I really wanted to learn something from this video, but it was disorganized and lengthy to the point of being unwatchable. This is really a shame, as it appears that you put a lot of work into it.
Nice job ... I think the actual sharpening (turning the chuck) speed should be slower based on the old videos by the company i saw. ... but, I like your explanations on the issues of aligning in the chuck.
A couple of minutes in and I knew he was going to be a rambler. If he was more succinct, stayed on topic and did some editing this video could be 10 minutes … but I’ll never know.
According to another video, after using the align port, then when sharpening the bit, you use the white line on the chuck to the top when sharpening the bit???
Really looking forward to a re-do of this video. I think your information is VERY IMPORTANT for the rest of us to understand! 😁. Don't be concerned about your presenting skills - it's the INFORMATION that's important.....
Well that was very informative- I always thought alinement phase was about depth of cut not the actual alinement on how the bit is feed into the sharpener, though I do feel the depth gauge is very important- so for best results it begins with a combination of depth and the degree alinement of the bit - thanks so much for a very detailed explanation of the bit configuration
Great explanation. Thanks for taking the time to show what's happening with this sharpener. I didn't know about the chisel angle until I watched your video. Drill Doctor should be thanking you for this as I wonder how many folk have launched their 750X across the workshop in frustration because they spent their beer tokens on this thing & ruined their drill bits, all the while cursing Drill Doctor. Would it improve things if Drill Doctor changed the design of the bit clamp arms by making them reach beyond the split point faces? By clamping the drill bit on the original flute grooves, would that allow the correct alignment to create the 135 deg angle between the chisel point & cutting edge? If I'm right, then I'm thinking that the drill bit stop could then be adjusted as designed to control the amount of material that you want to grind off. If anyone thinks I'm not right, please jump in as to why, as I intend to buy one of these units but I'm going to strip the unit down & make longer bit clamp arms. For showing the chisel point & other close-ups, I use a jeweller's magnifier (I'm in Scotland so about £8 on ebay uk). It gets you a 30x & 60x zoom with built-in LED lights & I just set up my iPhone to take a photo. A bit tricky to set up but worth it to show what's going on. Can also get lens attachments for phones.
Having a split point and non split point arm is a great idea. The other issue for the bigger versions like this is that the twist rate is different. So the further out they reach the farther off they are depending on the diameter of the bit.
The 500x model does not have any knob adjustment options on the jig. I think it is in the lowest setting or bottomed out exactly what you suggested. "When sharpening standard 118 drill bits, align in the 118° slot." "For standard 135° drill bits, align 1-notch to the right (-) of the 118° slot" Stated under page 18, LINK of the manual below. (PP50122KF Rev 0 7/18). www.drilldoctor.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/DD500X_and_DD750X_User_Guide.pdf
I am still trying to figure this thing out, but I think you're talking about different angle. Drill dr 118 vs 135 is the tip angle (whatever it's properly called, described on page 16 of the manual you linked. Maybe drill point angle); the video is talking about chisel edge angle
I have the same problem with my 750X. Over the years I have contacted the manufacturer several times and written notes in my manual to correct some of the printing errors in their instructions. It's still a confusing mess and my luck with the machine is hit and miss. Small bits typically sharpen easily, but as I go up in size I find myself grinding endlessly without ever getting the bits properly sharpened.
I did maybe kind of same way than you. Writed very long comment with mobile phone and then phone wanted to update program while I was writing very end characters of my message. I have to return this video further and share my ideas.
I completely disagree with where you start your grinds, by not starting on the white alignment marker. Do you also hold a chisel to a grindstone before turning it on?? Never had any problems following the instructions from the guy who designed it. That being said, I liked your explanation of the effects of setup on the chisel angle, and will be using that advice going forward...
@@grevo7229 Nah, I don't think so. Liked how you describe how to use the setup clamps on the side, but disagree with how you use the sharpening port on the top. Two different animals...
I've also done a lot of head scratching trying to get consistent chisel angles with the older 750SX model. There is even less adjustability with the older model. The tighter helix angle drills you mention here are difficult to get good point geometry because the drill doctor struggles to set the bit satisfactorily on the grabber fingers.
@@grevo7229 The only effective solution I could find was twisting the drill further around in the spring fingers similar to what you have demonstrated. The main problem I experienced was smaller drills (under 7 mm dia) always came out with a negative clearance angle on the front cutting faces. I had hoped the later 750X model design improvements had resolved all these setting geometry issues but looking at your video it seems there are some improvements to the design but flaws in geometry setting still exist.
This was 40 minutes of my time that I will never get back! It would help if you practiced rapidly moving your hands around more. I own the Model 500 and the Model 750 and have sharpened thousands of drill bits. Make another video when you have sharpened a few hundred more bits.
You need to place the drill into the chuck before you place it in the machine.. Then when its in position ...pull it out then tighten the chuck up..Then place into the grinder ...you must start with the white line....at the top...then rotate it to the right.. you are doing it wrong...
Not trying to brag but I actually got really good at just free handing them on my belt grinder after giving up on the drill doctor. My advise is watch the free hand video's with the back cut for the split point and then go spend a hour or so just practicing and trying them out on a drill press. I really wasn't that hard at all.
I certainly wish I could understand how to correct the problems with the Drill Doctor that you discovered. Any chance you could make that happen? What model Drill Doctor are you using to demonstrate?
But the manual says to move to the RIGHT slot from 118° to get the 135° angle. It's right in the book. BTW, I returned my drill doctor. It didn't work at all. Instead I found a RUclips video that explained exactly how to sharpen a drill bit on a benchtop grinder. A machinist with 33 years of experience made it. That worked.
Great info but at times impossible to follow. Often you are discussing some possible critical point and the bit you are showing is moving much too much for me to see what I should be looking for. Often you were looking for a bit to show and you had to hunt through the bits trying to find it. I suggest that before you start lay your bits out in the order you will be discussing them This of course requires that you have several bits at different stages. When you encounter a video problem, resolve the problem off camera and then remake that section. It will be necessary for you to have several sessions and you glue them together in the correct order. I'm looking forward to your remake. I'm trying not to be critical and blow you out of the water, I really appreciate your efforts. I will understand the video issues. I've been trying to do some video work and it has been a huge learning for me and it is difficult to teach an old dog new tricks. I'm having troubles with the 750X and have exchanged numerous emails with Drill Doctor support. I still have a long way to go, some of your info has been super helpful in understanding the problems I'm having. I will rewatch your video several times.
That is the point of the whole video. The instructions do not help you make this tool work. You have to figure out the tool and then use that knowledge to make it work
That is not what the 135 degree is, that is the offset of the chisel point. Those marks allow you to adjust the chisel point. The 135 degree is the included angle of the cutting lips. This is adjusted by loosing the clamp that holds the sharpening port and selecting 135, you can rotate it from 115 - 140 degrees. The other part is to let the grinding stone grind, not jam the bit into it. I also use dry silicon spray between the chuck and the grinding port to reduce the wear on the plastic contact parts. Also take one of the white lines and make it longer so that you can always stop and start at the same reference point to keep the grinding equal. Only use a dry spray not the attract grinding dust.
i took you ten years to figure this out? If you read the manual, examine the machine and how it works, it’s not complicated. i’ve used theirs for years and is way faster than hand grinding.
If you do watch the video you will see that's the point of the video is the manual is wrong. I will try and get a better more compressed version done to make it more clear without the long video
This worked for me! And the best part is you described the history with this tool and I felt like you were describing my experience exactly! Had it for 10 yrs, never worked right, tried it every so often, and just about to toss it. Now I can get a sharp bit so many thanks.
Bought a Drill Doctor over a year ago and couldn't get bits to sharpen correctly. Until today. Thank you!
Awesome!!! I have had mine forever till I figured this out
Thank you for the time you've invested in making this very informative video. I could never understand why some of my split point drill bits didn't work after sharpening, although I did realize the clamping points of the Drill Doctor are off when you try to align these bits. I had a look at my problem bits and they were all either 90 deg or beyond (positive angle). It took me only a couple of minutes to correct them and they now drill better than new. I also agree with you that some split points are just not suitable when re-doing them on the split point side of the machine, unless you remove a lot of material. Thanks again, and never mind the negative comments, it is the content that matter, which came through very clearly. People must rather take the positive out of other people's time and effort in stead of complaining. Well done mate!
Just a last comment from my side, I have the smaller 500X-model, and the motor is definitely under-powered if you do split points on larger drill bits.
Wow! This worked very well on my basic no extra optiona drill doctor! I just marked the drill in relation to the holder and rotated the drill slightly. Went from impossible through 1/8 plate, to fairly well!
Thank you so much for the time and effort you put into this vid! It answered so many of my questions. I, too, have shelved my DD750X until today because of every item you mention. Armed with this info, I’m ready to go forth and conquer
Good Job figuring this out!!! Saved me the headache of figuring out the fix myself!!! I appreciate the time you took to gather information, figure out the issue and the fix, as well as the time to make this video. There is a lot of useful information here!
I’ve had the drill doctor for years and never knew about adjusting the plus and minus and you solve the problem my head. I was getting perfectly sharp drill bits that did not work. Thank you thank you thank you! I must’ve watched 20 video showing me how to do it the way I was already doing it but yours solve the problem.
Best thing I did initially was to wrap some amalgamation tape around the drill bit holder collar for grip as it’s hard and uncomfortable to use. Reduces thumb joint fatigue. Made all the difference on multiple sharpens. A light wipe of lubrication around the contact areas also smooths things out when turning the bit holder.
I am so happy. Like you, I've had the thing for at least 10 years. I could fiddle with it and get a usable point after a few minutes each drill for most drill bits, not all. I just sharpened 10 drills in less than 10 minutes. Chisel point angle is the key I've been missing.
Sorry that anyone was critical of your performance! You answered my confusion in a way that nobody else has. I’m a 40 year career builder and I use drill bits in all materials. I bought the drill doctor five years ago and have been plagued by the inconsistent results. I never stopped to check the chisel angle. I also carry a job site standard twist drill kit in my drill box that I frequently replace broken or lost bits so the bits have different manufacturers and of course different flutes. One will be sharp and the next useless! The only part of your video I didn’t grasp was visualizing the alignment. Maybe when I start sharpening and correcting I’ll see it. Thanks for taking the time to figure this out. Drill doctor should thank you and consider providing a professional how to video titled” why this tool sometimes sucks!”
Thank you so much! I bought my Drill doctor about the same time you did. Your video showed me what to look for! I just sharpened several solid carbide bits. Awesome!
I believe your solutions are so important so as a new video is very important as soon as you can do it. Just try to be more organized, have a script to help you - and show far more closeups of the guide Jaws, the notches - and the tips of the drill bits. Showing the drill tips against a white paper seems to work very well. Looking forward to that video. I'm sure many people have run across the same problems you have and would like to know EXACTLY how to correct them. Like I said, tell your viewers that, if the drill bit looks like 'this' - then do this to correct. If the drill tip looks like 'that' - then do that to correct it. I can see several problems as you point out. You'll help a LOT of people with your knowledge. Please let me know when I can see your updated video. Thanks again - I hope you don't wait long! 😁😁😁😁😁
I laughed through the entire video. One of the best demonstrations ever. Don’t change a thing. I would never have figured this out on my own. Thanks!
I agree! I loved the easy going presentation. It landed 100% with me. I will look to see if you made an updated video but that would simply be icing on the cake. Great job!
Wow! Great detective work. I have all the same problems you mentioned. I never considered the split point throwing off the alignment when "clocking" the bit in the metal tabs. That certainly has to be my issue. I'm going to align to the virtual flutes as you did. I'm certain that will fix my issues. Thanks!
I have a 10 year + old Drill Doctor that I've never used. After watching your video I might attempt to use it, thanks. I've been using a General/Craftsman that attaches to the bench in front of the wheel/belt in my case. It works like a charm AFTER I figured out how to set it up.
The relief angles are set in notches so you can't adjust them. The lip stop was a pain so I removed it. I replaced all the adjusters with 1/4 - 20 L bolts. The DD is overly complicated and looks sloppy in the sharpening mode, not a precision machine. JMO.
When I got my drill Dr. in 2012 it came with a Dvd. (It's now on youtube also).
I watched the video, and sharpened a bit. I was happy as hell & did them all. The setup is different to what it "seems" like it should be so the directions are very important to watch. I only sharpen bits for metal drilling.
Great video. I spent a few hours on mine a year or so ago and figured out the same problems/fixes that you have documented. For the angle - I position the cutting edges and 3 and 9 o'clock and shoot for the tip angle between 1 and 2 o'clock (1:30 would be 45 degrees). I can remember the clock setup easier than thinking in degrees.
Thank you, using this “understanding” of the drill doctor and how drill bits actually work I was able to successfully re-sharpen all the bits I had initially tried to sharpen on the drill doctor. Thank you for taking the time to explain how bits should look when sharpened.
Dude this work for me thank you so much. Did exactly like you said it and imagining if the flute was still there rather than the split point and it works every time
Boom!
correct, it is really all about the combination of the depth of the grab (amount of material to be removed to reach the correct relief ) and on what rotation position we started at, for that, any of the following does compensate, 1. how deep the stop is, 2. the relief angle choice, 3. over or under rotating the drill position
I have fought my unit for years. It was obvious I had lack of relief issues but always blamed myself for some improper technique. Never considered the chisel angle as I couldn't past relief angle problems. While there are many videos about the use of these machines, at best they're limited to rudimentary function. The Darex videos are joke and a disservice to customers in their resolution, lack of detail and non-existant display of process. Your video was just what I needed in terms of affirmation of the alignment system being flawed. Thanks to you I'm now on the road to recovery!!
Good luck with your tremors. Same here, bonafide head bobber.
Cheers to the creator of this vid for working this out for lots of owners of the DD, but I think this fault has been corrected. I bought my DD just last year(the big one) and sharpened 20 years worth of collected dril bits. After seeing this vid I went out to check all the bits and the angle looks greater than 90deg off the zero setting. It's not 135deg (on the zero setting), it's looks to be about 110-115deg off zero. If you turn it +1 it looks to be a bit more like 145deg . I absolutely love this thing. Never had any experience with other brands but this is definitely worth buying.
Thanks Grevo for this information!! I´ve stored my 500X for 5 yrs since I never understood why it wasn´t consistent. I have had all the problems that you described, and it was well worth 40 minutes to be able to understand Drill Doctor flaws. I have tested several bits and I can handle it now. This saved me $300+ since I was just about to throw DD in the garbage bin and buy a Vevor MR-13B.
Considering that Grevo has useful information NOT FOUND elsewhere, I suck up my frustration with his rambling presentation - and watch, listen and learn. Thank you Grevo!
Thanks man. I'm not a film director and have a narrow base of things I'm good at so I apologize for the production quality but appreciate the feedback.
This video helped me save a lot of headaches trying to figure out what I would do wrong and I would definitely have messed up without this advice. After watching this, I took off using mine the first time going in and got perfect results.
Glad you enjoyed! Hopefully I got the concepts across without boring you too much. It is just a lot of information that goes against the "book"
You were spot on and wasn’t bored at all. This taught me what was actually required to sharpen a drill bit regardless of the method. Armed with that information, I knew how to approach the Drill Doctor. Thank you.
You obviously did a lot of work in analyzing what was wrong and how to fix it. However, the presentation was awful because you weren't organized AND without closeups of the drill bits, the viewers couldn't see what you're talking about. Also, your hands moved so fast back and forth, the viewer had no time to focus on the points you were trying to make. I would really like to see this tutorial done over again because your information is of enormous value. Please try again - your analysis deserves it. Thank you for the effort.
Thank you for the feedback! I not much of a vidographer and am working in that area. Maybe once I have some better skills and equipment I will try and re shoot the video. I still need more practice in that area first.
Very good video really helps clarify the sharpening process! Another way which may help simplify the thinking about it is to think about looking at them as the 9:00-1:30ish positions on a clock face.
I spent 3 days becoming pissed off about ready to return it. Finally some good info on this- THANK YOU! I'm shaking my for the fact drill doctor can't explain the process better with their own product! That's sad
Thanks for doing this video, I haven't use my Drill Doctor in years, I will give it a try again, after watching your video. Mine is of the first generations DD
I am working at vocational school in Finland and have had issues w/ Drilldoctor. Even I have worked as CNC-machinst +10years, I havent learned to sharpen drill bits by handwork.
With your experiences and guiding I may be able to solve Drilldoctor issues. But after problem is solved, anorher one comes ahead. Who will sharpen all dull drill bits. Because there is hundreds of them. 😂
I have been focused to drill's center which has been round. And thought that splitting would solve main issues. I also has been thinking that those grippers may be reason but havent really focused to that issue so sharp as you. I got some results by first doing very aggressive splitting and then sharpening drill bit with that main slot.
I got some ideas. Maybe those drill bit grippers needs kind of "socks" or "gloves" to follow shape. Maybe they would be printed with 3D printer. Also linening would be possible if drill bit is turned 90⁰ and lined with other mark on drill bit holder. Or new 3D printed equipment would be created.
How, a very educational video. Your illustrations and sample bits are a valuable resource for understanding the angles and terminology for beginners and old hands alike.
A great tool for this type of work is a bench top, illuminated magnifying glass (the type with a stand) to better see the cutting edges and chisel tip, especially when doing smaller bits.
U did way better then the drill dr company did in explaining how to use there product ...thanks was very helpful
There is one other thing that you didn’t mention and that is there are two marks on the bit point holder that should be in line with the chisel point angle to help you eyeball the correct angle. Mine is new and maybe they didn’t have that on the older ones.
Essentially the grinding end grinds a sort of mitre-shaped profile, and the purpose of the setup jig is to position the drill in the collet so the top of the mitre (which forms the chisel point) has the correct angle relative to the flutes.
There will be a certain zone down either side of the mitre shape that produces the correct relief angle, and if the drill is in the collet correctly, these zones end up at the leading edge of the flute where the cutting edge is. If the drill is not in the collet properly you get either too much or too little relief angle at the cutting edge. The angular relationship between these correct-relief zones and the chisel tip are fixed by the geometry of the cams on the side of the collet, so you cannot adjust the relief angle without changing the chisel point angle and vice versa.
Both of your methods (eyeballing the position of the continuation of the back edge of the flute, or placing the collet in a different notch of the setup hole) rotate the angle of the chisel edge, and by placing the chisel edge at near the correct angle, you also arrange that the relief angle is near the correct one.
Also, as you chose to grind more or less off the end of the drill, the orientation of the chisel point does not change relative to the collet, but where the flutes meet the ground surface does rotate because of the helix angle of the flutes. As you grind deeper the chisel point angle (as you define it) decreases.
Impressive analysis, but I have no clue what the conclusion is. Is his method wrong? I’m still halfway into this loooooooooooooooooong video, so maybe it’ll all make sense when I’m done watching.
@@henrikm4657 Until I actually try it out for real, I would not venture to say anything is right or wrong. The positioning mechanism in the Drill Doctor will definitely be fooled by split points, especially if you are trying to grind off just a bit, so it would be necessary to adjust for this somehow.
Kevin had the right idea. In short terms the reason a drill doctor isn't working for you comes down to positioning in the collet. That positioning affects more then the cut quality but the overall geometry of the bit. Without placing in the collet correctly the bit will not have the correct geometry to cut properly
Just purchased the Drill Doctor because it is the best ever Ha! I've been spending several hours with mixed results. I'm finding the relief angle & chisel angle have a relationship, unfortunately the inconsistency is making me crazy 🙂Awesome video & very helpful.
I have two Drill Doctors. Thanks very much that explained a lot of the problems ive seen. As far as splitting the point mine seems to be off to one side about .003" when i roll it over to cut the other side. Like the chuck is holding the bit off center but it centers the cutting edges fine. Within.0001".
I been using your way since the first time I watched your video a year ago, and I never have problems
I enjoyed this video ! I did notice how some drill bits were cutting differently, and I sat down and tried to figure it out
They key is to seat the drill chuck fully into the set-up port. If you are not deep enough the grind will leave a high spot behind the lip. Of course the Drill Doctor will never do as good a job as a commercial drill sharpener. Also if the flutes are damaged behind the LIP the only thing you can do is cut off the damaged portion and grind a new tip.
You clearly didn't watch the video
I had figured also the split tip was causing all the alignment issues, and I wanted to see what youtube had to say, in order of being corrected. You are spot on and I was so impressed on you staying the course to explain all of this. I believe at the just under 32 minute mark is the most important spot on your video for people to understand, you had explained it well but because when you are showing that spot with your awl, we are unable to see that it is a split point. The place you are showing looks like the normal fluting of the bit only because it is hard to see. So if you ever wish to do another Video if somehow you are able to get a different angle with the light or use white paper as the background like someone suggested even though I think it would still be hard to see, just being able to show it in a way that you can make it more visible so that we can see that it does have a split tip, to know exactly what you were pointing at where you were trying to draw an imaginary line across where the edge of the flute would normally have been. May God Bless you and I love you man. This is a video that all Drill Doctor owners should see so that they have an understanding why theirs does not work. I believe so many people give up and either never use it again or send it back for refund.
Excellent video, so well explained with so many issues solved. I have just sent this link to my friend who has just bought one. 👍👍👍👍👍
Unless you absolutely need split points or different angles, just buy a DD350 which is easy to operate. I have both and only use the 750 for large bits, split points or special angles.
I have never got a good result from drill Dr . I will give it another shot
Good info. Don't sweat the grief in the comments. If a person is completely ignorant about a drill bit you probably lost them. If they have a clue you didn't. I have been using a drill doctor for awhile and it takes getting used. It will cut the split point ok but it won't be to the same contour as most production bits because they use a large diameter grinding stone.
Thanks for figuring that out and sharing it.
The adjustment knob on the amount removed from the bit when sharpening will also affect the heal I believe.
That was good observation you noticing the difference in the flutes.
The manufacturers video don't even come close to yours. They would be wise to use your video or pay you to make one for them.
Great video! Thank you very much, very useful for me because I've purchased that machine.
Just bought one of these so not experienced…. Didn’t understand a word of this on the first pass. Will pick the bones out with further watching. Comments suggest good results. A simple do this or do that would be far better for non drill nerds 👍.
I'm drinking the Coors Light right along with you as I'm watching ... makes complete sense to me ...
Very good addition to standard how to videos.. thx
As a point of interest the pilot drill should be slightly bigger than the width of the web but if its too big the drill will wander.
thank you for sharing your findings. You put a lot of time in, and I am very grateful.
Glad it helped!
I appreciate the effort, hard to follow at times but I'm not sure if I could have done any better myself.
Liked your video, very interesting and helpful 😊.
I borrowed my brother out-law's Drill Doctor and I managed to get my largest bit somewhat okay 😢, 9/16 . . . and the other 100 were destroyed 😮.
At this point of time, I absolutely HATE THAT THING, I compare it to Jack the Ripper for drill bits, LoL!.
So, now I am going to try it again, but maybe not before the New Year 🎉😂, don't want to completely destroy the last part of this year, 2023🎉.
If any when I get over my PTSD from the last time I used the "Drill Doctor", I will be sure to share with you the outcome, or if I decide to trash my brother out-law's Drill Doctor.
Take care
Wow! Long video with a lot of information. But I don't believe I would have understood it without your explanation. So THANK YOU!!
I really wanted to learn something from this video, but it was disorganized and lengthy to the point of being unwatchable. This is really a shame, as it appears that you put a lot of work into it.
Thank you. That is years of use and figuring stuff out put into 40 minutes.
Nice job ... I think the actual sharpening (turning the chuck) speed should be slower based on the old videos by the company i saw. ... but, I like your explanations on the issues of aligning in the chuck.
A couple of minutes in and I knew he was going to be a rambler. If he was more succinct, stayed on topic and did some editing this video could be 10 minutes … but I’ll never know.
According to another video, after using the align port, then when sharpening the bit, you use the white line on the chuck to the top when sharpening the bit???
Really looking forward to a re-do of this video. I think your information is VERY IMPORTANT for the rest of us to understand! 😁. Don't be concerned about your presenting skills - it's the INFORMATION that's important.....
Mine works great and I’m happy with it. Price was high but it’s worth it
I watched the whole video! 😃
Well that was very informative- I always thought alinement phase was about depth of cut not the actual alinement on how the bit is feed into the sharpener, though I do feel the depth gauge is very important- so for best results it begins with a combination of depth and the degree alinement of the bit - thanks so much for a very detailed explanation of the bit configuration
Great explanation. Thanks for taking the time to show what's happening with this sharpener. I didn't know about the chisel angle until I watched your video. Drill Doctor should be thanking you for this as I wonder how many folk have launched their 750X across the workshop in frustration because they spent their beer tokens on this thing & ruined their drill bits, all the while cursing Drill Doctor.
Would it improve things if Drill Doctor changed the design of the bit clamp arms by making them reach beyond the split point faces? By clamping the drill bit on the original flute grooves, would that allow the correct alignment to create the 135 deg angle between the chisel point & cutting edge? If I'm right, then I'm thinking that the drill bit stop could then be adjusted as designed to control the amount of material that you want to grind off. If anyone thinks I'm not right, please jump in as to why, as I intend to buy one of these units but I'm going to strip the unit down & make longer bit clamp arms.
For showing the chisel point & other close-ups, I use a jeweller's magnifier (I'm in Scotland so about £8 on ebay uk). It gets you a 30x & 60x zoom with built-in LED lights & I just set up my iPhone to take a photo. A bit tricky to set up but worth it to show what's going on. Can also get lens attachments for phones.
Having a split point and non split point arm is a great idea. The other issue for the bigger versions like this is that the twist rate is different. So the further out they reach the farther off they are depending on the diameter of the bit.
My collet is .012” off center so, split points are .012” off center, plus it cuts more on one side.
Finally! This solved my issues!
The 500x model does not have any knob adjustment options on the jig. I think it is in the lowest setting or bottomed out exactly what you suggested.
"When sharpening standard 118 drill bits, align in the 118° slot."
"For standard 135° drill bits, align 1-notch to the right (-) of the 118° slot"
Stated under page 18, LINK of the manual below. (PP50122KF Rev 0 7/18).
www.drilldoctor.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/DD500X_and_DD750X_User_Guide.pdf
I am still trying to figure this thing out, but I think you're talking about different angle. Drill dr 118 vs 135 is the tip angle (whatever it's properly called, described on page 16 of the manual you linked. Maybe drill point angle); the video is talking about chisel edge angle
Dang is it that simple when sharpening the split point 135 degree bits align it one hole to the right of 118 degrees? just ordered a 500, thanks
Also, if you do it again, please incluse plenty of close-up - especially where aligning the drill point in the chuck. Great work on your part!! 😁😁😁😁😁
You could say: If this happens, do this. If that happens, do that.
I have the same problem with my 750X. Over the years I have contacted the manufacturer several times and written notes in my manual to correct some of the printing errors in their instructions. It's still a confusing mess and my luck with the machine is hit and miss. Small bits typically sharpen easily, but as I go up in size I find myself grinding endlessly without ever getting the bits properly sharpened.
Great Video, thanks for sharing your experience.
So gettin a buzz on is the key to operating The Doc?
Sorry, but why not just use the split point part of the drill doc on the side?
I did maybe kind of same way than you. Writed very long comment with mobile phone and then phone wanted to update program while I was writing very end characters of my message.
I have to return this video further and share my ideas.
Thanks for making this.
Absolutely hope you learned some things.
I completely disagree with where you start your grinds, by not starting on the white alignment marker. Do you also hold a chisel to a grindstone before turning it on?? Never had any problems following the instructions from the guy who designed it. That being said, I liked your explanation of the effects of setup on the chisel angle, and will be using that advice going forward...
You just contradicted yourself by my explanation
@@grevo7229 Nah, I don't think so. Liked how you describe how to use the setup clamps on the side, but disagree with how you use the sharpening port on the top. Two different animals...
I've also done a lot of head scratching trying to get consistent chisel angles with the older 750SX model. There is even less adjustability with the older model. The tighter helix angle drills you mention here are difficult to get good point geometry because the drill doctor struggles to set the bit satisfactorily on the grabber fingers.
Did this help? Or was there something different you had to do with the older models?
@@grevo7229 The only effective solution I could find was twisting the drill further around in the spring fingers similar to what you have demonstrated. The main problem I experienced was smaller drills (under 7 mm dia) always came out with a negative clearance angle on the front cutting faces. I had hoped the later 750X model design improvements had resolved all these setting geometry issues but looking at your video it seems there are some improvements to the design but flaws in geometry setting still exist.
Dude keep it up. I enjoyed your toolbox tour too.
This was 40 minutes of my time that I will never get back!
It would help if you practiced rapidly moving your hands around more.
I own the Model 500 and the Model 750 and have sharpened thousands of drill bits. Make another video when you have sharpened a few hundred more bits.
You need to place the drill into the chuck before you place it in the machine.. Then when its in position ...pull it out then tighten the chuck up..Then place into the grinder ...you must start with the white line....at the top...then rotate it to the right.. you are doing it wrong...
You know why Doctor's offices are called "Practices" now, don't you?
Not trying to brag but I actually got really good at just free handing them on my belt grinder after giving up on the drill doctor. My advise is watch the free hand video's with the back cut for the split point and then go spend a hour or so just practicing and trying them out on a drill press. I really wasn't that hard at all.
I think he said his hands shake so free hand gave him trouble.
Great info and run down on the DD issues and how to correct them. But... you really need a script to stay on track addressing each item in order.
@9:55 you’re turning a cobalt bit into high-speed steel? Didn’t know the drill doctor was capable of alchemy!
Dude, this video is 40 minutes long. Make it shorter and show us the result.
i might hate drill dr, but i definitely hate videos that cant freaking get to the point... jeebus
Working on a re shoot. Like I say sorry I suck at youtube
I certainly wish I could understand how to correct the problems with the Drill Doctor that you discovered. Any chance you could make that happen? What model Drill Doctor are you using to demonstrate?
Looks like a 750 x
But the manual says to move to the RIGHT slot from 118° to get the 135° angle. It's right in the book. BTW, I returned my drill doctor. It didn't work at all. Instead I found a RUclips video that explained exactly how to sharpen a drill bit on a benchtop grinder. A machinist with 33 years of experience made it. That worked.
Please make a 5 minute version.
Less beer 🍺 equals fewer years figuring it out...🙄 Hey an A for effort though 🅰️😬
Thanks 👍🏼
How do you get positive relief
I found it easier to put them in a vise and use angle grinder on them
Very good explanation, thank you
Great info but at times impossible to follow. Often you are discussing some possible critical point and the bit you are showing is moving much too much for me to see what I should be looking for. Often you were looking for a bit to show and you had to hunt through the bits trying to find it. I suggest that before you start lay your bits out in the order you will be discussing them This of course requires that you have several bits at different stages. When you encounter a video problem, resolve the problem off camera and then remake that section. It will be necessary for you to have several sessions and you glue them together in the correct order. I'm looking forward to your remake. I'm trying not to be critical and blow you out of the water, I really appreciate your efforts. I will understand the video issues. I've been trying to do some video work and it has been a huge learning for me and it is difficult to teach an old dog new tricks. I'm having troubles with the 750X and have exchanged numerous emails with Drill Doctor support. I still have a long way to go, some of your info has been super helpful in understanding the problems I'm having. I will rewatch your video several times.
Great feedback. Still new at this but I have some ideas and a re shoot in progress. It will be a bit, but I think it will help. Thanks!
Get a camera that can do closeups.
The ultimate unconvincing.
Never have mine work. Watched videos and follow them to the T. Never sharpen my bits.
I don't think 135 degrees is right. Darex says in their video that the chisel should point to 1:30. 135 would point at 2:00.
That is the point of the whole video. The instructions do not help you make this tool work. You have to figure out the tool and then use that knowledge to make it work
That is not what the 135 degree is, that is the offset of the chisel point. Those marks allow you to adjust the chisel point. The 135 degree is the included angle of the cutting lips. This is adjusted by loosing the clamp that holds the sharpening port and selecting 135, you can rotate it from 115 - 140 degrees. The other part is to let the grinding stone grind, not jam the bit into it. I also use dry silicon spray between the chuck and the grinding port to reduce the wear on the plastic contact parts. Also take one of the white lines and make it longer so that you can always stop and start at the same reference point to keep the grinding equal. Only use a dry spray not the attract grinding dust.
Good information and entertaining. My wife calls me a dumbass too. I think it's a gender thing.
i took you ten years to figure this out?
If you read the manual, examine the machine and how it works, it’s not complicated.
i’ve used theirs for years and is way faster than hand grinding.
If you do watch the video you will see that's the point of the video is the manual is wrong. I will try and get a better more compressed version done to make it more clear without the long video
My drill doctor came with a video tape (VHS) that explained it very well in 15 minutes
@markman63 while that works for some bits. It will not work for most, especially split point bits.