Should I Use Anti-Seize When Installing Spark Plugs? Teaching Apprentice Dave!
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- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2024
- Should I Use Anti-Seize When Installing Spark Plugs? Teaching Apprentice Dave!
Dave brought up a common question that I get from a lot of viewers. Should I use anti-seize when installing spark plugs on my outdoor power equipment?
Watch as I answer this question in this video!
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Easy to follow and thorough step by step tutorials do it yourself (DIY) to help you with your broken lawn and garden equipment including snowblowers.
I do my best to teach you how to easily diagnose problems the fastest, quickest and most efficient way with real repairs beyond just replacing a spark plug. These tips are for both the homeowner and shop owner.
Whether it be a handheld, two stroke, two cycle engine like a chainsaw, weed eater, weed wacker, string trimmer, grass trimmer, line trimmer, hedge trimmer, strimmer, brush cutter, leaf blower, or four stroke, four cycle units like a lawnmower, wood splitter, lawn tractor, snowblower, pressure washer, generator or a ride on mower that needs parts installed or replaced, I’m your go-to guy.
My favorite brands of spark plugs are NGK and Champion and are the ones I recommend.
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FYI: NGK doesn't recommend the use of anti seize on any of their spark plugs. A special coating applied at their factories negate the need for any additional user applied coatings.
good to know!
Yes Toyota expressly says do not use antisieze with NGK plugs.
Don't get the anti seized confused with electric grease. That's what you use in the rubber boot. To keep water out and lubes it from sticking breaking the spark plug or tip
@@d.brownjr.4845 I've been using the electric light bulb grease when changing automotive bulbs after a royal pita destroyed the bulb socket.
Use anti seize often around small farm. Cheap box of nitrile gloves keeps from staining fingers.
From NGK site
Anti-seize
NGK spark plugs feature trivalent plating. This silver or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize.
Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Thread breakage can sometimes involve removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and can result in serious engine damage caused by pre-ignition. Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental.
Yep, I always put just a tiny dab on the threads and washer. Been doing that for decades, never had a plug stuck in or any other issues (and that includes NGK plugs).
Use the copper anti-seize (not silver). Better heat rating and better electrical contact for the ground
Copper Anti-Seize protects metal parts against rust, corrosion, galling and seizure at temperatures up to 1800° F. It is electrically conductive and does not compromise the integrity of soft metals.
I use the copper too but the heat rating is actually a little lower than the nickel based.
I agree with using COPPER antiseze for ALUMINUM heads...but not due to thermal nor electrical properties. Instead, the COPPER based stuff is more suitable for aluminum than the silver colored stuff.
Graphite in the silver anti-seize Corrodes aluminum! I do think they make Nickle based anti seize that’s silver that should be ok! Graphite and aluminum is a big no-no ask any aircraft mechanic
Copper anti-seize between stainless steel and aluminum can cause inter-crystalline corrosion which can cause parts to fail/break under pressure.
Henkel-Adhesives (Loctite) states this themselves.
They recommend Nickel Anti-Seize instead of Copper.
I'm sure Aluminum would be fine on Aluminum Heads as well.
Exhaust bolts, high temp anti seize works well as they are prone to heat seizing. Not on small engine 2T sparkplugs, it's just not necessary, you don't want to overtighten sparkplugs....that can be expensive and really annoying when stripping threads. Antisieze can make the correct plug torque feel looser than it is & promote over tightening. Just keep your plug threads clean. Automotive is different.
Get a torque wrench
I don't use a torque wrench for ANYTHING on OPE small 2 stokes. Do enough of them and your hands are your torque wrench. Antisieze just changes the 'feel' of what correct tension should be & messing up spark plug threads on cylinders is easier than many expect.
Thanks 👍
Used it for years on plugs along with so many other things exposed to heat or as said before the elements. Wheel studs are another one that definitely gets a coating.
Ive been a mechanic for years. I use anti seize on anything exposed to elements alot or on people's stuff who I know don't do regular maintenance. It just helps when that day comes and they pick you to work on it again!
That's a BIG 10-4!
Won't that interfere with the ground to the block?
@@Fireinahorn never had a problem nor did my dad for the 40+ yrs he did it before
I use anti-seize (carefully) all the time on spark plugs. No harm so far and I use plugs forever without changing them.
i also suggest if you have a snowblower remove the wheels and anti - seize the axles so is you ever need to take the tires off you can
dony why don't you do a video explaining a reed valve
Thank you 👍
When I was a Volkswagon mechanic in the late 60s and early 70s we used this when installing new spark plugs. And I still use it when working on outboard motors, lawn tractors and other small engines including whatever automobile we have at the time. I even use it on lug nuts and bolts which helps get a smooth torque pressure. Great stuff and it lasts forever.
@@boots7859 thanks I'll have to remember this and do a before and after just to see the difference. I do this mostly on older mag wheels that don't torque smoothly.
Hey Don...I use an extra small toothbrush dedicated to the task which works pretty good...I don't torque it to the max as the threads are wet and I'm not having any issues
I use just a little bit on spark plugs.
Most spark plug manufacturers do not recommend use of anti-seize on new spark plugs as the zinc or nickel coating provides enough anti-seize properties. Only on new black oxide coated plugs should you use anti-seize. If reusing a plug then a small amount of anti-seize can be used, but the torque should be reduced by 20-25% to prevent overtightening and plug distortion. Champion makes an anti-seize specifically made for spark plugs which is graphite based providing a good ground.
I watched aviation mechanics use it on aircraft recip engines, probably a protocol on them. I used it on the plugs of my long ago Datsun 510 as they were feeling 'bindy' on removal.
Back in the day... on alloy volkswagen heads antiseize was a must
Good to know 🤝👍
Good to know, checked valve lash literally yesterday and was thinking about putting antiseize on the plug!? I didn't but will next time
The debate exists mainly for torqued items as anti seize affects those numbers. I always use it on plugs and wheel studs regardless of what 'experts' may counter with. Having a wheel lug nut break off and then having to extract and or replace the studs in the hub just one time will put you in the anti seize fan club.
Beware of sparkplugs that already have a coating on the threads from factory. If you put anti seize on those you may find out the hard way when the plug ossifies over time ( pretty much weld to the head). Also you may think you are loosening the plug however you are actually shearing the plug off flush with the sparkplug hole. I've seen so many nightmares on Stihls and huskys like this before. The reason behind also why you don't add anti seize to precoated plugs is that the anti seize will react with the pre existing coating and will actually seize the plug into the head.
NGK spark plugs are pre-coated. They do not recommend anti-seize but it still doesn't stop many using it. I removed NGK plugs from my car which had only been in there for around 1 year. It took a lot of breakaway torque before they shifted (crush washer?) but then they came out, although, they squealed on the way out. Not sure if that's a bad thing!
Good day My chevy truck 6 cyl had 5-6 break. Thanks
Thanks for the tips Don!
Champion plugs are steel with zinc plating.
Zinc and aluminium react and can "weld" themselves together.
So when you go to take a plug out the strong steel of the spark plug tears the thread out of the aluminum cylinder head.
Bosch plugs are nickle plated and don't suffer from the "welding" problem.
But use anti seize on all plugs, it just makes it easier.
Never happened here. All our plugs are champion
@@boots7859 problem is that zinc is less than a thousandth of a inch thick. If corrosion starts a thousandth of a inch of zinc won't last long and seizing will result.
The powderd metal and grease base of anti seize provides better protection.
The zinc plating is really there just to make them look pretty in the box.
@@alexstromberg7696 your on a lucky streak. Buy a lottery ticket.
@@Hydrogenblonde yeah Lucky streak since 2003?
@@alexstromberg7696 yeah you're definitely on a roll. I've been doing it since 1972 and I've come across a few. If one is seized in first thing you think is "God I wish people used anti seize"
Still buy that lottery ticket though, you never know. Keep away from the virus. Stay well.
I have had problems with spark plugs seizing in BMW N5x engines. Taking them out when hot, using penetrating lube, and VERY carefully working them back and forth usually does the trick. I've had to re-tap a few. I always put anti-seize on these. Usually don't bother on others. I had an instructor from California (I'm in Minnesota) who insisted this is not a problem and that anti-seize would cause heat and electrical conductivity problems. Never been a problem for me. Whatevs.
Bmw typically uses NGK or Bosch plugs.
50 Years ago when I was learning the mechanics trade, I saw someone remove a spark plug from an L-88 427 Chevy Aluminum head. As the spark plug came out, with much difficulty, the threads in the head came with it. At that point anti-seize became our friend. Especially with dissimilar metals. The silver is better for heat and stainless steel. That's all I ever use now.
Mean, mean engine that one.
Would love to have an L-88 427. I had a friend who owned one in a Medium blue '69 Stingray (steel bumpers all around) and he'd take me for rides on the freeway. It was fun watching other drivers go backwards so fast. My love of cars started then and there.
I'm a diesel mechanic and I love it 👍🤝🔧🚜
Thanks for the video
Great video as alwais 👍🤠
I've seen people try and put it in spark plug boots thinking they will release easier in the future. Talk about a potential short to ground lol.
Dielectric grease
Use silicone (dielectric) grease
Sounds like ol "Mowers&Blowers" to me !
I own a 2010 mustang V6. At 50k miles I was going to change them out. With the engine cold I could not get any of them to break free. I talked to a mechanic that told me when that happens warm the engine up to operating temp and then they should come right out. That worked like a charm.
I’m going to age myself. Anti seize is like Brylcream in that a little dad will do ya. (I said this to a young mechanic one time and the old mechanic he was working for started laughing and said he has no clue what you are talking about.) The threads will carry the dab in and around. A small can should last the average individual a lifetime. Do not apply antisieze to any threads you want to seize together regardless of coatings.
Cut the bristles on the brush to half their length for better control of application and use a popsicle stick or similar to push the anti seize up against the can wall to prevent your brush from being covered like Don’s. A new can may need to dry out a little before it stays against the can walls.
And make sure to use it on stainless fasteners that are to be taken apart and put back together. Stainless has a nasty habit of seizing and gauling as the male and female threads are worked back and forth. Don’t bother to look it up in Machinery’s Handbook. There is no mention of it.
I don't know if they still make brylcream? I sure used alot of it, most guys did.
"A little dab"ll do ya" Haha...old times.
You night try a small artists paint brush 🖌️ if you want to do so it's just suggeston
Hey Guys. Remember that anti- seize reduces the friction on the threads, so use as little as you can and be careful to avoid over-torquing. Last Year John Cadogan make a video about the torque reduction necessary to properly use anti - seize.
Personally I like to use anti - seize to protect against rust.
Keep the Good Work
Greetings from Costa Rica
The other worst thing that can happen is that you might strip out the spark plug threads particularly if they're aluminium,I had to spray some diesel in around the spark plug threads in my mothers Corolla as they were starting to grab on a couple of cylinders & I worked them backwards and forwards to remove them without stripping the threads in the cylinder head.
I applied the Nickel based anti seize compound onto the threads,note that I replace the platinum spark plugs in my Holden VY SS Commodore which runs the 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine once every 100,000 kilometres despite Holdens recommendation of 120,000 kilometres because they're a bit worn by then & the engine does go better afterwards.
I know that Infini recommends changing them once every 160,000 kilometres in their cars but I think that's a bit too excessive.
I use a nickel based anti seize compound on all of the spark plugs in the engine !
For your spark plugs, consider using heat conductive paste in lieu of traditional anti-seize compound. Heat conductive paste provides all of the anti-seize protection of traditional anti-seize compounds without having any abrasive properties of traditional anti-seize to cause wear to the threads on you engine's heads, and it helps to conduct heat away from the spark plug and into the head where it can be dissipated away more readily. This will prevent premature failure of your spark plugs from heat buildup, pre-detonation etc. Heat conductive paste is readily available on-line. Among other manufacturers, Rotax Aircraft recommends using heat conductive paste and strongly cautions against using automotive anti-seize.
I always put a little grease or oil on the threads and so far so good.
The shop manual for my Honda vehicle states to torque the spark plugs and not to use lube or anti seize as that will affect the torque reading
glad you said copper never -seize , been a car , truck , and bus mechanic for years till l I retired , had a lot of trouble with the silver stuff , went to copper ever since and no problems , great stuff for motorcycle plugs because of aluminum heads
Never use copper anti-seize on aluminium. These are dissimilar metals and the galvanic reaction will cause corrosion of the parts.
That's strange cause aluminum bronzes are known for their strength and corrosion resistance. I'm with you dude no way am I trusting those chemistry nerds who formulate and test this stuff for a living.
One of the worst things one can do is to OVER TIGHTEN a spark plug into an aluminum cylinder head. I also highly recommend using nitrile gloves when using anti-seize because this stuff can get everywhere and it’s not good to absorb into your skin.
ALWAYS on the Snapper Rear Engine Rider (RER) use Anti-Seize when reinstalling the wheel hubs on the axles
I had a '65 Chevy Impala with a 283ci V8 and one of the Champion plugs snapped off and left its threads in the spark plug hole. Finally got it out by wedging a tap into the threads and spinning them out.
Me also 67 Caprice 327 once or twice they broke off → The 409 they back out so you want the opposite of anit-sieze I guess … Mine did not 'snap off' the Porcelain broke Above ↑ James Last says NGK has factory applied for the question
283 A Great Engine
65' Impala was all the rage back then. Sweet vehicle. We had one for a short time, White exterior and Red interior. Reason we got rid of it, brand new it used to overheat at 4500ft elevation and 100+ degree days.
I have always used anti seize but I dilute it with solvent to make it easier to apply and spread. Usually have to take about half of container and transfer to another container so I can agitate it easily.
Yeah, good tips. I guess most small engines have their plugs removed from time to time..... storage spray, etc. Probably helps them from seizing as well.
Thanks guys great advise! Have a great day.
Great video guys! I've always been wondering the same thing👍
Plus you have steel to aluminum dissimilar metals
Canadian Tire used to sell an anti seize crayon next to the spark-plugs specifically for that purpose, it worked well as it was a solid and wouldn’t get on the electrode.
Earlier Ford pick up were notorious for having seized plugs. A friend of mine at one time broke 7 out of 8! Those were factory plugs too!
Good info - thanks Dave and Don
Cheers!
Wanna really start an anti seize battle, ask whether to use it on lug nuts, and what the torque specs should be if you use it.... I've never had a problem pulling a plug on small engines, but all mine are "garage princesses" or at least not left outside.
In the army, we used axle grease as anti seize. Too many years to remember if I applied it to lug nuts. As for torque value, my calibrated arm knows just when to stop.
Do not use anti-seize on lugs They will loosen
My question is: Loctite produces a "Copper" anti-seize also. Can this be used on aluminum small engines for plugs, screws, bolts, and nuts for assembly and disassembly?
I'm enjoying all of your videos. Thanks for sharing. ~Rick in N.H.
I use dielectric grease on all electrical connection.
I never use the copper based antiseize on very hot areas as I have had it dry out and go to powder causing it to seize. I always use the silver/nickel type hight temp antiseize on exhaust bolts etc.
I have used it in my cars but I have never used it in my small engines.
Anti-Seize on the threads of a spark plug could cause you to have no spark or intermittent spark. I had the end cap on a Maglite get stuck once and had a hell of a time getting it off. So I put anti-seize on it when putting it back on, and it wouldn't work. The anti-seize kept it from making contact at the threads. I had to clean it off, then it worked fine. I realize there's a big difference in the voltage but the possibility is there.
I have been using never seize for years on spark plugs but slathering it on with the brush in the can is just asking for trouble (shorting out the plug). What I do is use a small artist brush and apply it very sparingly where it goes on more like paint. You don't have to worry about it migrating down to the electrode that way.
Thanks once again for an informative video ..
One time I had galled a plug on my Kawasaki KZ1000 and have a shop do a Helicoil....used very light coat of anti-seize since then and no problems. If it's an aluminum head, I'd use it.
If a spark plug in anything is tightened correctly until the compression washer is squeezed and the plug is replaced once a year it should never seize, I've never had one yet ,anti seize compounds have aluminium and copper particles in them to prevent corrosion if they get into a cylinder there would be bigger problems
I would observe the advice of how far to turn the plug after contacting the seat. 1/16 of a turn for taper seat plugs and 3/4 of a turn with the washer seat plugs. If you get the anti seize on the seating area and you get "ham fisted", you can pull the threads right out of an aluminum head.
i change the spark plug on my small engines every 20 years plus
Back in the day, long before 100,000-mile iridium spark plugs were a thing, my friend had a Honda that she had purchased new. One frigid winter morning, at 150,000 miles - 241,000 km - it refused to start. She had it towed to the Honda stealership. They called her later that morning and asked "when was the last time you had your spark plugs changed?" She replied "what do you mean, changed?" The original factory plugs were still in it; the center electrode was effectively gone. It's a wonder it ran at all.
wow lol
Anti-seize, as I remember back in the day, helped immensely with removal of head bolts, intake bolts, exhaust bolts (etc) AND spark plugs. Iron engine blocks and steel/aluminum spark plugs have a different expansion and contraction rate and over time become "seized". With a careful slathering of anti-seize and a few choice words to seal the deal, when removal time comes, you save a few choice words and hopefully your knuckles. Not to forget it helps prevent rust which is another bucket of words.
I think putting anti-seize on any seasonal equipment/seasonal recreational vehicle is unnecessary. My reason is because I always remove the plugs to spray fogging oil at the end of the season. Also DO NOT use anti-seize on NGK plugs. They have a coating in them that act as anti-seize and if you put any form of lubrication on them you risk stripping the threads.
Dr. Don the man
I've tuned-up, repaired & rebuilt lawn mower engines since 1982, and never used anti-seize on any spark plug. I've never had the threads in an aluminum block stick to the threads on a spark plug either.
Lucky you, for sure.
@@SpaceCadet4Jesus Luck has nothing to do with it. It just never did happen, at least with me anyway. But I did install a Heli-Coil insert in some spark plug holes. Don't know if the threads seized on the plug when the customer went to change it, or if someone over-tightened it. Probably someone over-tightened it.
No need on small engine
I've never even found it necessary on cars.
My 03 F150 with 380k miles on it has never had antisieze on the plugs, i do change them about every 75k though.
I had a champion rc12yc break off in a ohv briggs and it was hell had to pound a cheap socket on because the round part was stuck in the head have you ever seen a rc12yc like that before it had glass between the nut and the round thread shell
My shop is in the equipment rental industry and we keep everything outdoors under a car port always. Anti seize is must when we are servicing the machines ...
Great video, guys! Thanks so much! 👍
Yea it ok to use as long as it is not graphite-based anti-seize! Hint hint graphite Corrodes aluminum
Modern car plugs are not to use anti seize on plugs because their torque spec is for dry plugs, and the anti seize changes that. Now if you’ve done plugs for years and generally know how to put them in without under or over torquing without using a torque wrench, no big deal. Do what you want.
If you use a torque wrench to put plugs in though, which some do, then follow the recommendations and don’t use any anti seize on them.
For me it depends on the car. As cars get more and more complex, I’m reluctant to go against the grain. Some of the euro engines in particular, just go by the book. But on an old ecotec or in the myriad of Tritons I’ve worked on, ya just do what you’ve always done and go by feel.
Make sure no anti-seize gets on the ceramic part of the plug where the spark plugs boot goes on. I did that once on a car and the spark shorted to the cylinder head.
Great info for anti-seize usage. Thanks for the tip!!! 😁
Most manufacturers don't put anti-seize on spark plug threads, why would anybody else do it? I always apply a drop of clean motor oil on spark plug threads before installing them, which seem to work very well.
I use the copper base anti seize , skipping the first couple of threads and a dielectric grease on the boots
Good insurance, especially on Ford engines.
I use it when I do clutch springs to especially on chain saws
I use Anti-Seize on head bolts and exhaust bolts as well .
A better question, gray or copper antiseize?
I always use antiseeze on spark plugs for cars. Never on small engines though.
When I'm putting something together, When do I use anti seize or grease
I don’t but I use a little oil on the threads when I’m putting up the equipment for winter storage. Thanks for the vid, 👍👍
That's what I find is the best option to 👍👍
YAY, Dave is back woohoo! I been missing Dave, no video's on his channel recently, thought it took a trip to Detroit and got lost in the motor city. Anti-seize is a good product, so why don't I use it? Cause I am just too dammed old fashioned I suppose lol. I'd imagine it would make a good battery terminal grease as well to fight back corrosion, since essentially thats what that product is for pretty much right. You guys are pure awesome, love it! :D
Only on black oxide plugs, very small amount if any
Just put in Bosch Platinum on my S10. They specifically stated NOT to apply snti-seize.
I am a stihl repair tech I use it all the time but be careful of it the plug is going into a aluminum cylinder
Great video guys 👍👍
Huge fan of this Chaneel 👍👍🤝🤝
thanks Buddy!
No problem 👍👋
Are use anti-seize on spark plugs that have a gasket. I have found overtime the ones with the gasket even if you torque them they get loose over time on a car. The ant- seize seems to keep them tight till you have to take them out to replace. I’ve never had the tapered seat plugs ever get loose but I usually put a drop of oil on threads when I install them you could probably put ant-seize on them too. I found on the cars they come out somewhat hard when you have anti-seize on the plug but never have pull the threads. I work on a fair number of Hondas and I have found they work loose and it sounds like you have an exhaust leak. Quick check to see if they’re loose start the engine up and put your hand on each coil and you can feel if the plug is loose. My Honda Fit they kept coming loose on it all the time until I put anti-seize on the threads. I’ve driven this car 400,000 km it was starting to get to be a pain with the plugs working loose every 50,000 km
🎆
Hi teacher how are you thank for the video you are the best man congratolations hey man who is your friend Dave
Thank you!
does anti-seize effect grounding?
It definitely doesn't hurt anything, a little dab will suffice.
This video came out the same day as I was fighting some seized plugs in my PWC. Any thoughts on best process to remove seized plugs? Love the video!
Is the anti seize the same as copper slip or copper grease in the UK?
Nice video, thanks. I have a Husqvarna 555, how often should chainsaw spark plugs be replaced?
love form Bangladesh md
Hello from Slovenia 🇸🇮👋
greetings from Canada!
Anti-seize can promote overtighting by changing true flb settings to a false value.
“Yep, right, right, right, yep, right, k, yep, right, right, right, inch pounds, cool, ok, ok, ok, ok, sounds good”
Been doing this for years and haven't had any issues other then taking sh** from my guys at work...
Can I put a 026 piston and cylinder on an 024 saw?
possibly but i'm not exactly sure
You should use anti seize with copper base , it's meant for hot sections .