Strongly recommend not buying gamesir products. G7 (standard) failed with severe stick drift in just under 6 months, currently in a 2 message per day chat with some jackass that calls me dear at the start of every message who just keeps telling me to update and calibrate the controller no matter how many times I say that didn't work and blatantly ignores my question of how to file a warranty claim for a replacement
Really interested if you could share the amount of register now at rest on your unit. I haven’t put much hours on my G7 but my G7se has over 200 hours of game time, and thankfully still has 3-4% register max at rest. Alps can be a hit or miss at times, as I have a 7 years old elite S1 with so many hours and still under 8% register at rest.
@thephototechy left stick max drift is -42.90 on x and -4.22 on y. Right stick literally just got drift today as I'm typing and is at -2.44 on x and +42.98% on y
I'm starting to think drift has something to do with pressing the sticks in for the l3 and r3 buttons. It was fine till I started playing rdr2 again and had to constantly press both sticks in for dead eye
@@crumpdapmvp I’ve had the tact switch in the sticks go on a couple of controllers, and yes that can possibly make things worse for stick drift as well. I mostly use auto sprint in all multiplayer games, ever since that failure happened so don’t press them in that much. I’m surprised about the G7 as they didn’t cheap out and used Alps in the controller. A lot of cheaper licensed controllers use the Favorunion’s cheapest module available. Still not a good look on Gamesir about return and repair process.
Hey yes thats such an amazing thing we can do with this controller. One issue for me is the face plate has started moving alot when gaming, but I think its only with me and my play style, as no other reviewer has mentioned that at all.
@@GhostMotley I bought xbox scuf on Azn but i tried before ps4 infinite joystick then xbox original joystick on it. You can clearly use every joystick you want because that controller fit with all of it
Thank you for sharing what you know that works for you and don't give up on your channel because sometimes moving up takes time but I'm sure you will get to 100K and beyond.
The issue with the g7se, is the thumb sticks tension spring is very weak, which means it’s easy to move it around. Some people like that some don’t. Think of a weak spring as a weak spine, the looser the tension the weaker the spine, therefore it won’t be able to stay straight/recenter after a little bit of use compared to stronger/higher tension. High tension = better posture.
I still think Ksilver should've gone with higher tension springs, HE sticks feel hollow to use already, so having a bit more tension would've been better in my opinion.
@thephototechy Have you used kontroll freak on g7se could do with raised right stick but don't want it if the nubs that hold the kontroll freak to the stick rubs on the controller when you turn the stick full rotation
@@alfb3912 hey I always use kontrolfreeks, the Ksilver sticks sits a bit lower and it can happen where the kontrolfreeks tabs rub on the face of the controller. Mine’s been fine as it only does it at the very top and so minor that I don’t notice it. I have no damage either on the faceplate on mine.
Like others are saying - we need some explanation why an alleged stick drift immune controller is affected by the same issue. I was seriously interested in buying the new snakebyte hall effect controller and now I'm confused.
Hey so I'm gettin a bit worried about this video now. This isn't the same stick drift like a worn out potntiometer, which'll affect your aiming and make it unplayable , hall effect sticks wont get that at all, but they are still prone to centre spring loosing tension and not recentering properly and causing a bit of drift. If there are no base level deadzones, which alot of manufacturers apply then you'll see this drift in every controller after serious use. My controllers do get a lot of serious use as I only play multiplayer FPS and the sticks end up taking a good amount of beating from me. Don't be worried about the serious stick drift issue that plagues the potentiometer sticks, hall effect are definitely not prone to that.
@@thephototechy Thanks for clarifying. Yeah, you might want to make a follow-up video about that, because most people (including me) assume that hall effect stick will never have any type of drift at all.
Hey I think it does, the game breaking stick drift on a worn out potentiometer makes the controller unusable, where as the recentre issue can be avoided with some deadzones and it doesn't affect once you start moving the stick. I'm making a video on potentiometer sticks and stick drift, in that video I'll be testing a 7 year old controller with alot of game time and a 10 year old conroller with no game time. I'm going to add the hall effect sticks in that video as well now, coz judging by the comments it look slike every one thinks HE will have no drift at all.@@Lukasz3332x
It isnt the sticks on hall effect modules it's the springs. The modules won't break but due to the magnetic modules being so heavy you need a good tough spring and the g7 uses a pretty weak soring.
@@capppehonlock Hall effect sensors also drift due to changes in temperature and current. But realistically when you are measuring such minute changes in a magnetic field, any shifting or warping of materials can cause drift, possibly even the magnets weakening over time. Stuff which pot based sensors aren't as susceptible to. I don't think hall effect sensors are the silver bullet everyone believes them to be. I suspect they aren't suited to thumbstick applications where you need to be able to take really small and precise measurements which is why pot based solutions ultimately won out. But now that they are out in the wild for people to use and abuse, I guess we will find out. So far it seems like they aren't holding up any better than pot based thumbsticks, arguably worse.
There's no such thing as "it'll never occur", nothing lasts forever. It's pretty ironic there still is drift but the only dofference is that this drift didn't occur from one of the components breaking.
I just bought one yesterday 😂. Thinking the gamepad is drift free😂, my problem are the camera movement in mh rise is sometimes is acceration and the ergonomic compare to ds4 is worser. Maybe i used to the shape of ds4 controller
@@nerdstrangler4804wkwkkw but my ds4 not drifting even after many many many year of using. I just purchase g7 se yesterday and just found out that it also can drift😂
Hi - I took one of these controllers apart and the sticks are pretty basic inside, so I'm not surprised they drift, also the triggers have the hall magnets inside which can become dislodged in the older models, and the triggers play up or stop working, the new models seem to have the magnets glued in.
Hey yes I’ve made a video showing the internals of the jh16 modules, mine was a pre order and definitely the first batch and still performs great. Thanks for the info about the triggers I’ll keep an eye on them.
@@thephototechy Cool...mine suffered from a minor rage bashing playing Hell let Loose !...one trigger stopped working, when I got inside I found the magnet had come out and stuck itself to another metal part....bit tricky to see at first, another thing to watch is there are 2 super tiny rubber grommets on the bumpers and the rear extra buttons, if these come out when dismantling they are hard to see .
@@thephototechy Is there any way too tell if you have updated Modules? i just ordered a G7 SE and its on the way. would it technically have them? thanks! great vids and tips btw
Ive had my G7 SE for almost 6 months now and ive noticed the sticks are so sensitive. I went from a 6-6 sens in COD to a 2-2 and even that is getting bad. I loved this controller at first, but now im thinking of trying some new controller's
Personally haven't had any drift. I had to get used to how low the spring tension is and how responsive. Also the update that came out had my triggers messed up until I did a manual recalibration. This is the best controller I've used though even with said issues. I believe this controller proves scuf and other custom controllers are over pricing controllers like crazy
Hey I agree the controller is indeed really good, and having the manual calibration and other options make it that much better. I do believe it’s probably my play style that’s caused that much slop on the sticks, as no one else has made any video showing this. Still I think this’ll help heavy handed people out there who like me might encounter this amount of slop.
@@thephototechy yeah I'm also heavy handed. So I've had to play with a lighter grip. Especially in like games like Halo because I noticed that I was making a lot of micro movements that I was not trying to do on purpose. But since I was gripping it so hard it was happening
Brand new out the box the best center point i could calibrate was around a 3% to 5% deadzone. Once i turned on raw and put a xbox stick on the best i could get was a 5% to 7% i have also noticed that a kontrol freak is somehow enough weight pulling on the stick to throw my deadzone off even more depending on the angle im jolding the controller.
Good video, what I'm curious about the G7se is the fact that the USB-C port is recessed, now I'm not sure if the cable that come with an official Xbox controller will fit.
Hey so it’s something I’ve mentioned in my 1st review of the G7se, the port is small and I don’t have any cables apart from the one came with the G7/G7se that fits it. I don’t have the cable that came with the standard controller, I need to check my house cable box 😂
Last week my controller finally arrived after two months of shipping :D I loved the controller, so much so that I ordered another one hehe, one question, is the manual calibration mode the same as the one done within the Nexus app? Why do you also have those calibration steps, or is it better to do it this way?
Hey so the nexus app is the same, but I've had it twice that my triggers didn't work properly after the calibration through the nexus app, so I use the manual calibration method and it works every time.
Hey you might have some deadzones applied to yours in Gamesir Nexus software, I personally felt the controller performed way better for me with built in deadzones disabled. Out of box there is a 10% deadzone applied to the sticks and it might be perfectly fine for some and others might not like it. The manual calibration option is an amazing tool we have with Gamesir products and like I've shown in the video, it really helps managing this kind of drift which can happen to any controller.
Im thinnking about buying kontrolfreeks for my controller(also g7se). But i have heard people saying the xbox version of kontrolfreeks does not fit. Should i get the ps4/5 version instead ?
it's not a drift issue its a recenter spring tension issue.. Drift is when you moving your sticks and its moving the opposite way or different direction that isn't suppose to do.. IMO
Hey yes that’s absolutely correct, as that’d be a game breaking drift. Hall effect sticks are not prone to that so far it seems, hopefully will stay like that and we don’t encounter some magnet failing issues. The spring slop can cause issues for people like me who like to play with minimal deadzones. This video is meant to showcase an amazing feature on the G7se which helps us maintain long term usability of the controller. Also it seems like others don’t have this much slop on their sticks and it’s probably just my play style and the amount I used this controller.
Hey bro, you think they’ll put out any more firmware updates for the se? The tracking of enemies is the only thing I have a problem with. Also my fusion pro 3 is giving me so many problems after updating the firmware. It played better before I updated it. 😢
Bro for FP3 they reduced the minimum deadzones to only 1% after update, so with its twitchy response I'd advise use some in game minimum deadzones and see if you feel ok with that. G7se should get the update with the 1000hz, but I think Gamesir has to wait for Microsoft on that. My thoughts are Microsoft banning non licensed third party accessories is for that major 3rd party wireless support that'll also make the series consoles to support more than 250hz.I think thats their way of competing with PS5 which seems to be able to support more than 250hz, as evident by Razer wolverine V2 pro being 500hz, and when I tested the Dualsense edge on PC with DS4, it showed 1000hz response time without any overclocking. One thing I'll say about the G7se is to check your sticks centre point like I showed in this video, if your springs are also a bit loose like mine, then definitely get that centre point adjusted. Using linear response curve I find the G7se to be very good for tracking, btu I still have to increse sensitivities in COD for normal aiming and ADS as well.
@@thephototechy hey bro, you know I just realized. I think the fusion pro 3 feels bad to me because it feels like it has more than a 1% dead zone for some reason. When someone’s close range, I have to force my stick to them with way too much force. It’s almost as if, there’s too much dead zone.
@@kyrenrowe461 bro can you try gamepad tester and see how much movement breaks centre? Also if it’s linear all the way to the end? I have a video on a manual calibration for FP3 as well, I think if you find things a bit off in gamepad tester then definitely do the calibration. After the update there was a calibration needed, I myself did one more after that as I too felt it a bit different. One thing for sure the deadzones changed after the update and were made smaller.
@@thephototechy hey bro, I tried to calibrate it, but it made no difference. I noticed that when I first bought the fp3, that it would sometimes get “stuck” during random gunfights. Only now after doing the update+calibration, it happens way more often. I’ve sent an email to support and hopefully they can swap out my controller. For a little more context, I have my sens turned up to 5 accel, 10 horizontal, 10 vertical on halo infinite, which I guess would be equivalent to max sens on cod. I will definitely try the game pad tester real quick.
@@kyrenrowe461 hey so I read somewhere about axial deadzones in halo. I played a lot of infinite when it first came out, but I only had the turtle beach recon and my elite series 1 at the time. I’m going to get back into it and try other controllers on that game. What you are describing feels like the sticks missing inputs at times, definitely not a normal behaviour.
Yea i see you are replying the same thing to all these guys saying "i thought it couldnt get drift?" I think a follow up video explaining this would be a good idea lol Keep up the good work, thanks!
Hey yes, I'm actually worried about this video now lol. I made it to highlight a very good and amazing option Gamesir has given us for the longecity of the controller, but the reaction seems to be a negative one. The amount of drift I got at rest is probably more than anyone else, as I haven't seen anyone else talking abou this at all. I'm currently planning on making a video about potentiometer sticks and stick drift so I 'm going to add a whole section of hall effect sticks in that video.
I noticed you Revolution X Pro controller in the background. I own the Revolution X and the G7 SE, I'd like to hear your thoughts. Will you have a review of the Nacon Revolution Pro X?
Hey so I've done all the testing on the revolution pro X and should be shooting the review soon. It's using alps sticks which are the higher quality potentiometer sticks, combining the different response curve options one can really dial in their preferred aim feel. I think I perform way better with potentiometer sticks still, the HE sticks feel hollow to me even now. Also the shape of the Nacon is actually good for medium to larger hands and I do prefer it, not to forget 4 back buttons. If the controller had trigger stops I'd say it'd be such n easy recommendation. Still at £100 4 back buttons it's only competitor is the PowerA Fusion Pro3.
Hey! Thanks for you videos. Please, what about XBOX blocking controllers 'Designed for Xbox' will this Gamesir G7 SE be affected by the block? Thanks in advance.
Hey so these are licensed Xbox controllers and they won’t be affected at all. I shot this video today 31/10/2023 and didn’t get that message at all. All the affected accessories are getting an error message with November 12 as the block date.
i have a question, please help me, I did an update for the controller and now the light flashes white really fast and is wierdly responding can’t find anything on the topic
Hey this has happened to others as well, the manual calibration can fix that. I have a video on how to do that, I’ve pasted the link below. ruclips.net/video/9G-0R0iAo3k/видео.htmlsi=LiOVfUtUU-_jNAMJ
I might sound picky but a 3-4% drift is unacceptable for a potentiometor joytick Now for a hall effect i expect atleast double the quality 200% for a jh16 hall effect sensor A jh13 i would expect around 150% quality The jh16 is the brand new hall effect sensors while the jh13 is the older ones wich are totally broken/outdated The g7 uses jh16 btw Fun fact dramcast controller was the first to implement hall effect sensors in controllers and they sold the patent to gullikit rather recent
Hey with absolute 0 deadzones every stick with a little play time will have 2-4% drift. The controllers that show perfect centre are using base level deadzones to eliminate that. Springs loose tension and develop slop, some more than others. What’s game breaking is the potentiometer wearing out as that won’t just affect centre but will affect aiming as well. My G7se sticks have more slop compared to my Snakebyte gamepad pro, which also use Ksilver modules. So I think it’s probably my unit having this much issue, as others haven’t complained about this. I even have comments from people saying they have alot of game time on their G7se and it’s perfect. I can only show what’s happening to my unit and I do thing the manual calibration is a really good tool to combat the issue.
@@Gixron_yt hey my G7se has developed slop on the spring so I get a fair amount of drift at rest on Hall effect sticks. I did make a video on how to manage the drift on G7se, as Gamesir have given us the most amazing tool in the manual calibration option.
My g7se had a very small amount of stick drift out the box on siege I have it on 2 deadzone and that got rid of all stick drift on apex if I play linear with no dead zone I have small amount of stick drift if I play classic response curve with no dead zone I have no stick drift what so ever I don't think you can get a controller that has no stick drift at all but as long as it dosent get any worse I'm more then happy with the performance of the controller this Is my 1st controller with hall effect sticks so just going to have to see if it survives the test of time my last controller was razer wolverine ultimate had it for over 5 years best controller I ever owned when everything is working right id say its the best controller for competitive gaming but most buttons ended up braking in the end but that controller I used to run 6 deadzone on siege and still had a quite a bit of stick drift the g7se you could get away with using 0 deadzone just have a slight bit of drift
@@alfb3912 so you are spot on, any controller with true 0 deadzone will have a drift at rest. Tbh I don’t class that as drift coz that’s just the recentre spring not being perfect centre, which is normal for springs. I personally love when there is no baked in deadzones, what’s happening now is manufacturers using baked in deadzones to give that perfect centre position and I think there should be options for us to disable them. Gamesir is giving such options through the nexus software. I’ve used my G7se for well over 100 hours now and the sticks lose fair amount of tension, so if someone loves a firm feeling stick, they’d either need to use precision rings or maybe stick with normal potentiometer sticks. I’ll be making a video on HE sticks longevity at some point, as I think it’ll be interesting to see how they’ve held up with serous game time.
I kinda feel like the weak springs inside the joysticks could be a dealbreaker for me because I really like how the sticks on the oem controller feel. Any opinions on that?
Hey so it's not just the weak springs, the HE sticks at first will feel hollow as well to use. I did get used to them quickly but going back to normal sticks I do find myself liking them more. The issue I have is that difference going between HE and poyentiometer sticks. I wish this wasn't the case as years of using potentiometer sticks I do prefer their feeling. To date the best feeling for me are the Favorunion highest potentiometer model and the C&K ones used by thrustmaster, but C&K look and feel very much like the favorunion ones.
Hello. I think I have a problem with my g7se. I was messing around too much and now I can't seem to hear audio. Everything else works fine. I can speak into my mic but all I can hear is myself speak. I can't hear any gameplay or anyone else speaking. Can you tell me how to fix it. The audio and stuff worked perfectly fine at first but I don't know what I did wrong and I managed to do it on all of the profiles lol. I've tried resetting the profiles with the xbox app version but it didn't work. It's a shame because I do kind of like this controller.. you know besides the dpad not respond much lol and select not working
Hello friend, I'm planning to get the G7 SE (I play on Xbox Series S), is it necessary to update the controller as soon as it arrives? And how do I update it?
Hey so there is an app on xbox called Gamesir Nexus, you use this to set the controller and different profiles. The most recent firmware is 6.25, if your controller is below that then you'll have th eoption to update it. Id say just set the controller up first and use it to see if you like the resonse and aim feel. The reason being there is no way to revert back to the older firmware and all the 6.25 did was to fix the raw mode. For me personally the 10% minimum deadzone is a bit too much to I completely disable them in Nexus software and use the in game deadzones of my liking. Hope you have some free time bro and I recommend do a lot testing and trywhat you like, this is an amazing aspect of the gamesir controller, have fun!
Bro I just got a comment it’s coming out this week, I got so excited I started playing with the G7se last night, I’m hoping the information is correct and we get that asap.
Dear host, I have one more question regarding G7 SE. Do you have any battlefield? Like BF1 or BF5 or 2042? I'm wondering if you would get stick drift on G7 Se if you would set center deadzone at minimal values. Of course I'm talking about normal mode not the raw mode.
Hey so if I keep the centre deadzone to 0 in 2042 I do get a fair bit of drift, that’s if I’ve kept the minimum deadzones to 0 in nexus software. Before the 6.25 I was also reducing the maximum modem to 90 in 2042, after the 6.25 I don’t need to do that. If I keep the minimum to 5 in 2042 then there is no drift.
Hey the method shown in this video actually works for G7 as well, I should've mentioned that specially when mine was sitting under the monitor the whole time.
Ah man FP3 has 4 back buttons and feels way better in hand, also for a potentiometer controller it has the manual calibration capability. We can’t ignore the 2 years warranty of PowerA either. If you only need 2 back buttons then definitely you can save a bit of money and G7se would be a perfect controller with 2 back buttons. The lack of trigger stops on G7se is a bit of a let down as well, FP3 only cuts 70% travel but still I prefer that over G7se. For me personally if I could only have one between them and FP3 higher price wasn’t a concern, the id opt for FP3 definitely.
Is there any way to overcome the spring tension loss because i play with the lowest deadzone on every game because it feels more responsive thay way but stick drift is really bothering me,i tried manual calibration many times before but eventually i end up getting drift again and again
I have the lt trigger that only waits for 240 and some or 250 unless I force a little on the triggers it waits for 255 in the Nexus application. Is this normal? 🙏
Hey the triggers should reach the maximum without pushing too hard on them. It’s happened to me before where the triggers were playing up after the calibration, definitely try the manual calibration method, and press the triggers slowly when calibrating. I think it’s not a faulty controller, just the calibration as I myself have experienced some issues.
Thank you very much for taking the time to answer me, the problem solved itself after 15 minutes that I stop clicking and replicating hope to make a break-in to the trigger and it works, the only thing that the left trigger and too sensitive as soon as I put my fingers on the trigger it activate so I changed the settings of trigger in the application nexus I put (5-100) instead of (0-100). The rest works very well, I really like the feel of the stick when you move it, it's too soft, probably the best I've tested. Can you tell me that I made a good choice in buying the gamesir g7 se to replace the basic xbox series controller? For info I'm on Xbox series s and I regularly play FC 24 , FORZA HORIZON 5 AND COD . 🙏🙏🙏🙏❤️❤️❤️
Bro the G7se is an amazing controller and like I showed in the video, it has some really useful options when it comes to longevity and usability. I think the controller will last you a long time and it's definitely worth it's price and more. One thing I'd recommend is to reduce the minimum deadzones in the nexus app for your sticks, as standard they are at 10% which is a bit high imo, so definitely bring them down to 5%. I myself keep the minimum deadzones to 0 in nexus and use the in game deadzones if needed.@@filalitv7491
Thanks for the answer 🙏🙏🙏, I'm a basic PlayStation player and I switched to Xbox series s 2 years ago because the ps5 was nowhere to be found. Since I bought the Xbox, every 6 or 8 months at the most I have to buy a new controller. I always have drift problems with the left joystick. Once I bought a new red Xbox controller after 3 months of use I had drift in the left joystick. The problem is that all the xbox controllers I bought except the red one and the one that came with the Xbox series I had the same problem from the first time I used the new controller. The problem is that when I press one of the buttons it does it twice, for example, if I'm writing a message and I tap on the word play, one or two alphabets will be written twice, or if I'm playing FIFA 24 and I do a normal pass by pressing the A button once, it counts twice, so I get another type of pass out of another, and to do it normally you have to press A twice. I hope this controller will work perfectly for at least 1 year without any problems. If it does, I'll only buy gamesir controllers.
Hi man, anyway to calibrate a standard series X/s controller? If you do it on PC would then still be calibrated on Xbox ? Or can you do it directly from the Xbox? And is the standard series X/s controller always been using raw mode? Anyway to change this? Thanks
Hey that’s the biggest issue I have that we can’t recalibrate the standard and series controller. I’ve read that there are some softwares used by repairers that can recalibrate sticks, but haven’t seen anything we can use ourselves to do it. One of the biggest advantages of third party controllers is the recalibration option they provide. My series 2 is so badly calibrated and there is nothing I can do to remedy that.
Bro thanks for sharing, I’ve seen comments where people are saying their sticks are 100% fine even after serious use, has me thinking if they haven’t disabled the 10% deadzone that’s applied out of box. If you do end up changing the spring, any chance you could make a video and share on RUclips? That’d be amazing!
Hey yes that’s how I’ve kept mine, it introduces a bit of drift at rest with 0 deadzones, in my experience using the in game deadzones works better for me, then using the nexus deadzones for some reason. I’d recommend play around with the raw mode as well, see if you prefer the 100max with out raw and 100max with raw. One good way is to create one profile with raw enabled and one without. Play with the in game sensitivity options, the idea is to make you feel totally connected with your aim on screen. I personally think the options Gamesir have given us are amazing, we can really dial in the feel of the controller to our liking.
Okay thank you, so I should put the outside to 100% no matter if it’s on raw or not and just mess around with raw on and off to see which is better?. Also would you change the trigger dead zone or just leave them as they are
@@Brendan14 hey yes keep the 100 and try a profile with raw and one without raw. I have a video on sticks calibration which has a section on trigger settings and what’s worked best for me, I’ve pasted the link below to the video m, hope this helps. ruclips.net/video/9G-0R0iAo3k/видео.htmlsi=ic-UML2ZF64NCLIK
Hey I’m using the normal G7 sticks on my SE. You can actually use any after market xbox thumbsticks in the G7 and G7se thanks to the manual calibration option.
Hey you can do a manual calibration and that should fix that, this seems to have happened to others as well. I have a video showing the manual calibration process, link is below thanks. ruclips.net/video/9G-0R0iAo3k/видео.htmlsi=UjE_9JR6OpBlluEN
Hey have you tried the manual calibration? Also when you do the calibration press the triggers in slowly and a bit firm toward the end. Happened to me once and was able to fix it doing a manual calibration.
Hi phototechy, I like you’re videos a lot, what is faster in use these triggers or the ones from the power a fusion pro3? The power a fusion pro has trigger stops but the gamesir has software to change the deadzone of the triggers. And also how easy are the paddles to press (how muchforce needed) compared to the fusion pro?
Mate this is so crazy, I’m playing with the fusion pro 3 right now. Trying to make a video talking about 1000hz vs others on Xbox. Fusion pro3 also has Hall effect triggers but they don’t auto adjust max deadzones at the shortest trigger stop, I did make a video showing a way to do that with manual calibration. So if max deadzone adjusted on PowerA with manual calibration the triggers are ok. Between the G7se with hair trigger option and FP3 I wouldn’t say I’d but the fusion for triggers. Saying that the 4 back buttons on fusion is a big plus, honestly changes how I play the game. Actuation wise G7se back buttons requires a bit less force, it FP3 has a nice texture on the back buttons, so usage wise both perform really well. If you are ok with only 2 back buttons, then definitely go for the G7se, honestly with the recent update it has really blown the competition away. I’ll be shooting a video talking about the response and feel on Monday, basically a bit of sharing the experience of G7se with 1000hz vs Gambit, FP3, Raikiri, Nacon rev X and EswapX. It’s not a full blown comparison but a general talk and what I feel the difference with 1000hz update.
Hey so this is what the industry is calling the HE sticks (drift proof). As you can see in the video, the spring can lose tension and develop slop which in turn causes drift at rest. This typer of drift is not game breaking as it's only at rest and some deadzones can help eliminate that. What happens to the magnets after some use or if we see these developing other issues where they miss inputs, we just don't know that yet. One thing for sure they won't have the potentiometer failing stick drift. Potentiometer sticks are rated for 2 million cycles and K-silver hall effect sticks are rated for 5 million cycles. One thing has me worried is they haven't given a number for the tact switch in the stick. Alps rate their's 500k minimum Favorunion has 2 models, cheap one is 100k and higher one has 1 million press rating. So which one Ksilver is using we don't know.
@thephototechy Regarding the switches that are in the sticks that you mention being worried about them wearing out. To mitigate the situation, I don't use them. I have both stick buttons mapped to the rear buttons.
@@tcrviper hey that’s a good idea if you don’t need the back buttons doing any other function. The rear buttons used here are normal tact switches and they usually have a lifespan of 1m presses, some are even shorter than that like 500k, so they can be a point of failure as well. Of course will depend on our play style and how much we use them. From experience my elite series 1 lasted well over 6 years of serious game time and back buttons even the sticks were fine, it was actually the button in the left stick that gave out.
Hey the method I’ve shown in the video really helps to distribute the drift equally. How much drift do you have? If it’s more than 10% I’d say reach out to gamesir as that’d be too much deadzone needed to counter.
@@Javggoat did you check if it’s all in one direction? Or is equally distributed? Having the perfect centre point will mean only 5%-6% deadzones will eliminate that. 10% in my opinion is a lot and will harm game play.
my controller joystick is broken but i don’t know how to fix it and they joystick feels stick everytime i move it also the joystick moves up and left and i just bought it to
Hey yes these should never get the potentiometer failing drift but centre spring, however, is a different story. Not having it perfectly centred is not game breaking drift at all and like i showed in the video, G7se has the amazing feature of manual calibration, through which we can select a centre point. Also its getting very rare to get a true 0 deadzone now a day as people want to see a perfect centre. I think its a downgrade for performance as I find having true 0 deadzones and using in game deadzones works better.
@@thephototechy Thanks for the reply , I got the point now , I must had a misconception about what stick drift really means , I'm learning more through your videos very informative , keep it up 👌
I wouldn't recommend Snakebyte. Their customer service wouldn't help with the controller randomly disconnecting during gsmeplay and told me to talk to Amazon. Amazon was telling me to talk to the manufacturer. So I returned both of our controllers because both of them kept disconnecting randomly less than a month after we bought them.
Hey this isn't the same stick drift like a worn out potentiometer. this is due to the centre srping getting loose after use, in my case its a bit more as other reviewers havent had this issue. Like I mentioned the manual calibration helps alot in managing this and if this is the maximum amount of drift after 70 hours of serious multiplayer gaming, then this is actually a very good result for a controller that has no built in deadzones.
Hey check how much drift you have, also try the manual calibration. I personally don’t keep any minimum deadzones in nexus app and use in game deadzones to avoid drift at rest.
Hey not yet, I have a feeling it’s being delayed due to Microsoft. The recent blocking of non licensed third party controllers might be an indication that Xbox will open 1000hz after the November 12 at some point, but that’s just my guess let’s see when we get that 1000hz option.
Only problem I’ve had with this controller is just getting used to the way the sticks feel especially on a game like COD. I had no drift at all and even put a tall kontrol freek on my right stick and the aiming just felt weird, wobbly and fast once I did get out of the deadzone area. Hall effect sticks definitely take a whole to get used to. And this controller is tiny, I like to use bumpers to aim and shoot I cannot use triggers for some reason, and this controller makes it so I can’t use the bumpers and the back buttons at the same time. Definitely worth the $40-45 price but takes a while to get used to and find the right set up with the app. Also being able to swap sticks is really nice and will probably help one of my issues so far. Im using a DS4 with the Sony back button for right now and the latency on it isn’t the best but it’s close to what the G7 SE can get to. But stick drift and playing games like COD that go hard on your controller in general is why I decided to try it out.
Hey that difference when playing HE sticks is in every HE controller I’ve tried so far. The best thing about the sticks is definitely the longevity, specially when we have options like manual calibration given to us.
Hey so if wireless is a must then Xbox own controller for sure, but if you can deal with a wire then G7se is better than Xbox controller when it comes to performance for sure.
Hey bro this isn't the drift like the worn out potentiometer, which'll leave the controller unusable as it'll affect aiming. This type of drift is caused by the centre spring loosing its strength after use. The video is meant as a showcase of the amaing manual calibration Gamesir has for its controllers, which really helped me to rectify the problem. The controller was still usable without this method, just needed a bit larger deadzone then I'd like to use. So please bare this in mind that it's not the same kind of drift as the worn out potentiometers.
Hey they keep it at 10% as standard but in my case the controller felt very sluggish with those deadzones. I keep them at 0 in nexus and use in game deadzones for COD and BF2042, doing this way the controller feels way more responsive. I’d say if you are fine with the out of box experience then definitely don’t reduce the deadzones in nexus. The whole reason I reduced them was feeling inconsistent and sluggish response which improved for me a lot after making them 0.
Hey if it’s the plastic thumbstick top then you can replace it with a Xbox replacement ones, if it’s actual Ksilver module then you’ll need to go through Gamesir as the controller should be under warranty. I made a short on changing to the Xbox ones if that’s what needs replacing, hope this helps. ruclips.net/user/shortslJ6g-DCWuBc?si=RxhNFr9Ul69j5-EL
G7 was much better with mechanical switches and 2 face plates. But they said SE was drift free. Now we see it's not. And no, not because of different reasons. Still the same reason; low quality cheap material whether it's a spring or a potentiometer. Better to hold on to our good old Xbox X and PS5 controllers. I am using them for 2 years and still no problems.
I already burned through 3 "good old" PS5 controllers. So yeah, at least for PC I'll be switching to either Gamesir or Snakebyte Hall-Effect stick gamepad soon. I never had stick drift on PS2, PS3, PS4 or Xbox 360 controllers though. May just be bad luck? I dunno. All I know is that I'm very frustrated about trash-quality 70€ gamepads.
@@StoneyWoney I assure you that you'll burn your brand new hall effect controllers much sooner than that. Actually they will burn themselves up without much help from you too.
@@mkatakm 1. I don't believe any word you just said. 2. I'll just get the 35€ Snakebyte Gamepad. Even if your vague "assurance" should be right, then at least they'll break within the warranty time, and not like the Dualnonsense controllers shortly after. And even if they should last just long enough to get past the warranty and then break...well then that's 35€ less wasted than on the Dualnonsense.
@@StoneyWoney why should I lie to you? To get what? Please go on, burn your money, nobody is holding you back. And read my comment carefully, I don't mention snake whatever at all. It may be better or worse. Also this guy himself says that "this is the maximum amount of drift after 70 hours of serious multiplayer gaming" as a response to lizardon7096. Read it yourself if you don't believe me. So perhaps there is no problem as long as you won't play seriously. Or, if 70 hours of serious gameplay is enough warranty time for your money.
Hey man I’ve used this a good few times on my G7se and G7, just how I showed the numbers in the video I’ve been able to select a new centre point every time. Just now we got a new 1000hz update and I calibrated both my controllers in the same manner with the slop equally distributed.
The drift that can happen is from the springs giving out, there's really not a way to combat that. They can't get drift due to natural wear and tear of the potentiometers grinding down.
Hey so this is just due to the centre spring being loose after serious use, this isn't the same as the worn out potentiometer which will be a game breaking drift. Also the manual calibration method I've shown in the video is an amazing option for users to maintain this issue. I know hall effect are being praised as anti stick drift but they are still prone to centre spring drift which isn't a big problem, it's something every controller has if they don't have built in deadzones to hide it.
@@JavggoatI've been trying to reduce the drift as much as I can by calibrating it with the website showed in the video, tbh it's not the controller fault, I gave it an "accidental" smack in the joystick while playing and it's been with an insane drift since then lmao
Plss someone tell me, do i need to do Calibration on new Controller, i bought this controller 🎮 Yesterday.. and what is the RAW mode for sticks..?? What it does..??
1000 Hz update today for the g7 se. If you're a competitive f p s gamer, this is the update you were waiting for. Holy shit!!!!! Best controller on the market for the money by far. What a beast of a controller.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Strongly recommend not buying gamesir products. G7 (standard) failed with severe stick drift in just under 6 months, currently in a 2 message per day chat with some jackass that calls me dear at the start of every message who just keeps telling me to update and calibrate the controller no matter how many times I say that didn't work and blatantly ignores my question of how to file a warranty claim for a replacement
Really interested if you could share the amount of register now at rest on your unit. I haven’t put much hours on my G7 but my G7se has over 200 hours of game time, and thankfully still has 3-4% register max at rest. Alps can be a hit or miss at times, as I have a 7 years old elite S1 with so many hours and still under 8% register at rest.
@thephototechy left stick max drift is -42.90 on x and -4.22 on y. Right stick literally just got drift today as I'm typing and is at -2.44 on x and +42.98% on y
@@crumpdapmvp my days bro, these are huge numbers. Don’t think any calibration can fix this.
I'm starting to think drift has something to do with pressing the sticks in for the l3 and r3 buttons. It was fine till I started playing rdr2 again and had to constantly press both sticks in for dead eye
@@crumpdapmvp I’ve had the tact switch in the sticks go on a couple of controllers, and yes that can possibly make things worse for stick drift as well. I mostly use auto sprint in all multiplayer games, ever since that failure happened so don’t press them in that much.
I’m surprised about the G7 as they didn’t cheap out and used Alps in the controller. A lot of cheaper licensed controllers use the Favorunion’s cheapest module available. Still not a good look on Gamesir about return and repair process.
I LOVE the fact that you're still covering the G7 SE! Keep up the great content!
🙏🙏🙏
I added 2 scuf joystick, it’s feel so nice with. It’s very nice to be free to add any joystick you want on it
Hey yes thats such an amazing thing we can do with this controller. One issue for me is the face plate has started moving alot when gaming, but I think its only with me and my play style, as no other reviewer has mentioned that at all.
What type of thumbsticks did you buy that were compatible? There's lots of options on their site.
@@GhostMotley I bought xbox scuf on Azn but i tried before ps4 infinite joystick then xbox original joystick on it. You can clearly use every joystick you want because that controller fit with all of it
I didn't think of that. The G7 SE sticks are just far to sensitive. There is almost no resistance.
Thank you for sharing what you know that works for you and don't give up on your channel because sometimes moving up takes time but I'm sure you will get to 100K and beyond.
Hey bro thanks for the support, really appreciated man!
The issue with the g7se, is the thumb sticks tension spring is very weak, which means it’s easy to move it around. Some people like that some don’t. Think of a weak spring as a weak spine, the looser the tension the weaker the spine, therefore it won’t be able to stay straight/recenter after a little bit of use compared to stronger/higher tension. High tension = better posture.
I still think Ksilver should've gone with higher tension springs, HE sticks feel hollow to use already, so having a bit more tension would've been better in my opinion.
Can't this be open and replaced with a higher tension one?
@thephototechy Have you used kontroll freak on g7se could do with raised right stick but don't want it if the nubs that hold the kontroll freak to the stick rubs on the controller when you turn the stick full rotation
@@alfb3912 hey I always use kontrolfreeks, the Ksilver sticks sits a bit lower and it can happen where the kontrolfreeks tabs rub on the face of the controller. Mine’s been fine as it only does it at the very top and so minor that I don’t notice it. I have no damage either on the faceplate on mine.
@thephototechy which kontroll freakz do you use and dose the rubbing not effect the calibration of the sticks?
Like others are saying - we need some explanation why an alleged stick drift immune controller is affected by the same issue. I was seriously interested in buying the new snakebyte hall effect controller and now I'm confused.
Hey so I'm gettin a bit worried about this video now. This isn't the same stick drift like a worn out potntiometer, which'll affect your aiming and make it unplayable , hall effect sticks wont get that at all, but they are still prone to centre spring loosing tension and not recentering properly and causing a bit of drift. If there are no base level deadzones, which alot of manufacturers apply then you'll see this drift in every controller after serious use. My controllers do get a lot of serious use as I only play multiplayer FPS and the sticks end up taking a good amount of beating from me. Don't be worried about the serious stick drift issue that plagues the potentiometer sticks, hall effect are definitely not prone to that.
@@thephototechy Thanks for clarifying. Yeah, you might want to make a follow-up video about that, because most people (including me) assume that hall effect stick will never have any type of drift at all.
@@thephototechy does it matter what causes the drift? If the result is that same then it does not.
Hey I think it does, the game breaking stick drift on a worn out potentiometer makes the controller unusable, where as the recentre issue can be avoided with some deadzones and it doesn't affect once you start moving the stick. I'm making a video on potentiometer sticks and stick drift, in that video I'll be testing a 7 year old controller with alot of game time and a 10 year old conroller with no game time. I'm going to add the hall effect sticks in that video as well now, coz judging by the comments it look slike every one thinks HE will have no drift at all.@@Lukasz3332x
@@thephototechy is it possible to have zero deadzone and no drift?
Wait, drift? Aren't Hall effect joysticks supposed to not suffer from drift?
It isnt the sticks on hall effect modules it's the springs. The modules won't break but due to the magnetic modules being so heavy you need a good tough spring and the g7 uses a pretty weak soring.
@@capppehonlock Hall effect sensors also drift due to changes in temperature and current. But realistically when you are measuring such minute changes in a magnetic field, any shifting or warping of materials can cause drift, possibly even the magnets weakening over time. Stuff which pot based sensors aren't as susceptible to.
I don't think hall effect sensors are the silver bullet everyone believes them to be. I suspect they aren't suited to thumbstick applications where you need to be able to take really small and precise measurements which is why pot based solutions ultimately won out. But now that they are out in the wild for people to use and abuse, I guess we will find out. So far it seems like they aren't holding up any better than pot based thumbsticks, arguably worse.
There's no such thing as "it'll never occur", nothing lasts forever. It's pretty ironic there still is drift but the only dofference is that this drift didn't occur from one of the components breaking.
I just bought one yesterday 😂. Thinking the gamepad is drift free😂, my problem are the camera movement in mh rise is sometimes is acceration and the ergonomic compare to ds4 is worser. Maybe i used to the shape of ds4 controller
@@nerdstrangler4804wkwkkw but my ds4 not drifting even after many many many year of using. I just purchase g7 se yesterday and just found out that it also can drift😂
Hi - I took one of these controllers apart and the sticks are pretty basic inside, so I'm not surprised they drift, also the triggers have the hall magnets inside which can become dislodged in the older models, and the triggers play up or stop working, the new models seem to have the magnets glued in.
Hey yes I’ve made a video showing the internals of the jh16 modules, mine was a pre order and definitely the first batch and still performs great. Thanks for the info about the triggers I’ll keep an eye on them.
@@thephototechy Cool...mine suffered from a minor rage bashing playing Hell let Loose !...one trigger stopped working, when I got inside I found the magnet had come out and stuck itself to another metal part....bit tricky to see at first, another thing to watch is there are 2 super tiny rubber grommets on the bumpers and the rear extra buttons, if these come out when dismantling they are hard to see .
@@thephototechy Is there any way too tell if you have updated Modules? i just ordered a G7 SE and its on the way. would it technically have them? thanks! great vids and tips btw
Ive had my G7 SE for almost 6 months now and ive noticed the sticks are so sensitive. I went from a 6-6 sens in COD to a 2-2 and even that is getting bad. I loved this controller at first, but now im thinking of trying some new controller's
Hey have you checked that the calibration is on point? I-e active area is what its supposed to be and not smaller?
Personally haven't had any drift. I had to get used to how low the spring tension is and how responsive. Also the update that came out had my triggers messed up until I did a manual recalibration. This is the best controller I've used though even with said issues. I believe this controller proves scuf and other custom controllers are over pricing controllers like crazy
Hey I agree the controller is indeed really good, and having the manual calibration and other options make it that much better. I do believe it’s probably my play style that’s caused that much slop on the sticks, as no one else has made any video showing this. Still I think this’ll help heavy handed people out there who like me might encounter this amount of slop.
@@thephototechy yeah I'm also heavy handed. So I've had to play with a lighter grip. Especially in like games like Halo because I noticed that I was making a lot of micro movements that I was not trying to do on purpose. But since I was gripping it so hard it was happening
Brand new out the box the best center point i could calibrate was around a 3% to 5% deadzone. Once i turned on raw and put a xbox stick on the best i could get was a 5% to 7% i have also noticed that a kontrol freak is somehow enough weight pulling on the stick to throw my deadzone off even more depending on the angle im jolding the controller.
Good video, what I'm curious about the G7se is the fact that the USB-C port is recessed, now I'm not sure if the cable that come with an official Xbox controller will fit.
Hey so it’s something I’ve mentioned in my 1st review of the G7se, the port is small and I don’t have any cables apart from the one came with the G7/G7se that fits it. I don’t have the cable that came with the standard controller, I need to check my house cable box 😂
Last week my controller finally arrived after two months of shipping :D I loved the controller, so much so that I ordered another one hehe, one question, is the manual calibration mode the same as the one done within the Nexus app? Why do you also have those calibration steps, or is it better to do it this way?
Hey so the nexus app is the same, but I've had it twice that my triggers didn't work properly after the calibration through the nexus app, so I use the manual calibration method and it works every time.
Damn 2 months?
I have this controller and I bought it because of the hall sticks. How are you having stick drift w/ this? Mines perfect.
Hey you might have some deadzones applied to yours in Gamesir Nexus software, I personally felt the controller performed way better for me with built in deadzones disabled. Out of box there is a 10% deadzone applied to the sticks and it might be perfectly fine for some and others might not like it. The manual calibration option is an amazing tool we have with Gamesir products and like I've shown in the video, it really helps managing this kind of drift which can happen to any controller.
I was wondering the same, it's not supposed to happen this on magnetic sticks.
Im thinnking about buying kontrolfreeks for my controller(also g7se). But i have heard people saying the xbox version of kontrolfreeks does not fit. Should i get the ps4/5 version instead ?
Hey yes xbox ones are too tight. PS4/PS5 fits them perfectly.
@@thephototechy thanks alot
is there any way to add stick drift to the left stick only for rotational aim assist?
it's not a drift issue its a recenter spring tension issue.. Drift is when you moving your sticks and its moving the opposite way or different direction that isn't suppose to do.. IMO
Hey yes that’s absolutely correct, as that’d be a game breaking drift. Hall effect sticks are not prone to that so far it seems, hopefully will stay like that and we don’t encounter some magnet failing issues. The spring slop can cause issues for people like me who like to play with minimal deadzones. This video is meant to showcase an amazing feature on the G7se which helps us maintain long term usability of the controller. Also it seems like others don’t have this much slop on their sticks and it’s probably just my play style and the amount I used this controller.
Hey bro, you think they’ll put out any more firmware updates for the se? The tracking of enemies is the only thing I have a problem with. Also my fusion pro 3 is giving me so many problems after updating the firmware. It played better before I updated it. 😢
Bro for FP3 they reduced the minimum deadzones to only 1% after update, so with its twitchy response I'd advise use some in game minimum deadzones and see if you feel ok with that. G7se should get the update with the 1000hz, but I think Gamesir has to wait for Microsoft on that. My thoughts are Microsoft banning non licensed third party accessories is for that major 3rd party wireless support that'll also make the series consoles to support more than 250hz.I think thats their way of competing with PS5 which seems to be able to support more than 250hz, as evident by Razer wolverine V2 pro being 500hz, and when I tested the Dualsense edge on PC with DS4, it showed 1000hz response time without any overclocking.
One thing I'll say about the G7se is to check your sticks centre point like I showed in this video, if your springs are also a bit loose like mine, then definitely get that centre point adjusted. Using linear response curve I find the G7se to be very good for tracking, btu I still have to increse sensitivities in COD for normal aiming and ADS as well.
@@thephototechy hey bro, you know I just realized. I think the fusion pro 3 feels bad to me because it feels like it has more than a 1% dead zone for some reason. When someone’s close range, I have to force my stick to them with way too much force. It’s almost as if, there’s too much dead zone.
@@kyrenrowe461 bro can you try gamepad tester and see how much movement breaks centre? Also if it’s linear all the way to the end? I have a video on a manual calibration for FP3 as well, I think if you find things a bit off in gamepad tester then definitely do the calibration.
After the update there was a calibration needed, I myself did one more after that as I too felt it a bit different. One thing for sure the deadzones changed after the update and were made smaller.
@@thephototechy hey bro, I tried to calibrate it, but it made no difference. I noticed that when I first bought the fp3, that it would sometimes get “stuck” during random gunfights. Only now after doing the update+calibration, it happens way more often. I’ve sent an email to support and hopefully they can swap out my controller. For a little more context, I have my sens turned up to 5 accel, 10 horizontal, 10 vertical on halo infinite, which I guess would be equivalent to max sens on cod. I will definitely try the game pad tester real quick.
@@kyrenrowe461 hey so I read somewhere about axial deadzones in halo. I played a lot of infinite when it first came out, but I only had the turtle beach recon and my elite series 1 at the time. I’m going to get back into it and try other controllers on that game. What you are describing feels like the sticks missing inputs at times, definitely not a normal behaviour.
Yea i see you are replying the same thing to all these guys saying "i thought it couldnt get drift?"
I think a follow up video explaining this would be a good idea lol
Keep up the good work, thanks!
Hey yes, I'm actually worried about this video now lol. I made it to highlight a very good and amazing option Gamesir has given us for the longecity of the controller, but the reaction seems to be a negative one. The amount of drift I got at rest is probably more than anyone else, as I haven't seen anyone else talking abou this at all. I'm currently planning on making a video about potentiometer sticks and stick drift so I 'm going to add a whole section of hall effect sticks in that video.
I noticed you Revolution X Pro controller in the background. I own the Revolution X and the G7 SE, I'd like to hear your thoughts. Will you have a review of the Nacon Revolution Pro X?
Hey so I've done all the testing on the revolution pro X and should be shooting the review soon. It's using alps sticks which are the higher quality potentiometer sticks, combining the different response curve options one can really dial in their preferred aim feel. I think I perform way better with potentiometer sticks still, the HE sticks feel hollow to me even now. Also the shape of the Nacon is actually good for medium to larger hands and I do prefer it, not to forget 4 back buttons. If the controller had trigger stops I'd say it'd be such n easy recommendation. Still at £100 4 back buttons it's only competitor is the PowerA Fusion Pro3.
@@thephototechy it's my favorite controller, but it's not perfect, I have my issue with it. I can't wait to see your full review. Thanks!
Hey! Thanks for you videos. Please, what about XBOX blocking controllers 'Designed for Xbox' will this Gamesir G7 SE be affected by the block? Thanks in advance.
Hey so these are licensed Xbox controllers and they won’t be affected at all. I shot this video today 31/10/2023 and didn’t get that message at all. All the affected accessories are getting an error message with November 12 as the block date.
Thanks alot! @@thephototechy Keep it up with the content.
i have a question, please help me, I did an update for the controller and now the light flashes white really fast and is wierdly responding can’t find anything on the topic
Hey this has happened to others as well, the manual calibration can fix that. I have a video on how to do that, I’ve pasted the link below.
ruclips.net/video/9G-0R0iAo3k/видео.htmlsi=LiOVfUtUU-_jNAMJ
I might sound picky but a 3-4% drift is unacceptable for a potentiometor joytick
Now for a hall effect i expect atleast double the quality 200% for a jh16 hall effect sensor
A jh13 i would expect around 150% quality
The jh16 is the brand new hall effect sensors while the jh13 is the older ones wich are totally broken/outdated
The g7 uses jh16 btw
Fun fact dramcast controller was the first to implement hall effect sensors in controllers and they sold the patent to gullikit rather recent
Hey with absolute 0 deadzones every stick with a little play time will have 2-4% drift. The controllers that show perfect centre are using base level deadzones to eliminate that. Springs loose tension and develop slop, some more than others. What’s game breaking is the potentiometer wearing out as that won’t just affect centre but will affect aiming as well.
My G7se sticks have more slop compared to my Snakebyte gamepad pro, which also use Ksilver modules. So I think it’s probably my unit having this much issue, as others haven’t complained about this. I even have comments from people saying they have alot of game time on their G7se and it’s perfect. I can only show what’s happening to my unit and I do thing the manual calibration is a really good tool to combat the issue.
Hello, can you please clarify what you write? G7 controller uses hall sensor jh16, Did you mean the regular version g7 or g7 SE?🙏
@@Gixron_yt hey my G7se has developed slop on the spring so I get a fair amount of drift at rest on Hall effect sticks. I did make a video on how to manage the drift on G7se, as Gamesir have given us the most amazing tool in the manual calibration option.
My g7se had a very small amount of stick drift out the box on siege I have it on 2 deadzone and that got rid of all stick drift on apex if I play linear with no dead zone I have small amount of stick drift if I play classic response curve with no dead zone I have no stick drift what so ever I don't think you can get a controller that has no stick drift at all but as long as it dosent get any worse I'm more then happy with the performance of the controller this Is my 1st controller with hall effect sticks so just going to have to see if it survives the test of time my last controller was razer wolverine ultimate had it for over 5 years best controller I ever owned when everything is working right id say its the best controller for competitive gaming but most buttons ended up braking in the end but that controller I used to run 6 deadzone on siege and still had a quite a bit of stick drift the g7se you could get away with using 0 deadzone just have a slight bit of drift
@@alfb3912 so you are spot on, any controller with true 0 deadzone will have a drift at rest. Tbh I don’t class that as drift coz that’s just the recentre spring not being perfect centre, which is normal for springs. I personally love when there is no baked in deadzones, what’s happening now is manufacturers using baked in deadzones to give that perfect centre position and I think there should be options for us to disable them. Gamesir is giving such options through the nexus software.
I’ve used my G7se for well over 100 hours now and the sticks lose fair amount of tension, so if someone loves a firm feeling stick, they’d either need to use precision rings or maybe stick with normal potentiometer sticks. I’ll be making a video on HE sticks longevity at some point, as I think it’ll be interesting to see how they’ve held up with serous game time.
Please tell me the manual stick calibration method of q300 ps4 type controller
Quick question. Why do I get stick drift and stuck triggers when enabling the 1000mhz polling rate?
Hey just replied to your comment
I kinda feel like the weak springs inside the joysticks could be a dealbreaker for me because I really like how the sticks on the oem controller feel. Any opinions on that?
Hey so it's not just the weak springs, the HE sticks at first will feel hollow as well to use. I did get used to them quickly but going back to normal sticks I do find myself liking them more. The issue I have is that difference going between HE and poyentiometer sticks. I wish this wasn't the case as years of using potentiometer sticks I do prefer their feeling. To date the best feeling for me are the Favorunion highest potentiometer model and the C&K ones used by thrustmaster, but C&K look and feel very much like the favorunion ones.
Hello. I think I have a problem with my g7se. I was messing around too much and now I can't seem to hear audio. Everything else works fine. I can speak into my mic but all I can hear is myself speak. I can't hear any gameplay or anyone else speaking. Can you tell me how to fix it. The audio and stuff worked perfectly fine at first but I don't know what I did wrong and I managed to do it on all of the profiles lol. I've tried resetting the profiles with the xbox app version but it didn't work. It's a shame because I do kind of like this controller.. you know besides the dpad not respond much lol and select not working
Hey I’ll have a look, I haven’t played with it for a while as currently working on other reviews.
@@thephototechy thanks bro. Appreciate it.
Hello friend, I'm planning to get the G7 SE (I play on Xbox Series S), is it necessary to update the controller as soon as it arrives? And how do I update it?
Hey so there is an app on xbox called Gamesir Nexus, you use this to set the controller and different profiles. The most recent firmware is 6.25, if your controller is below that then you'll have th eoption to update it. Id say just set the controller up first and use it to see if you like the resonse and aim feel. The reason being there is no way to revert back to the older firmware and all the 6.25 did was to fix the raw mode. For me personally the 10% minimum deadzone is a bit too much to I completely disable them in Nexus software and use the in game deadzones of my liking. Hope you have some free time bro and I recommend do a lot testing and trywhat you like, this is an amazing aspect of the gamesir controller, have fun!
@@thephototechy Ok and thank you, I already saved your videos regarding the control, excellent content and congratulations on the quality 👍
When is the 1000 hz polling rate update out?
Bro I just got a comment it’s coming out this week, I got so excited I started playing with the G7se last night, I’m hoping the information is correct and we get that asap.
Dear host, I have one more question regarding G7 SE. Do you have any battlefield? Like BF1 or BF5 or 2042? I'm wondering if you would get stick drift on G7 Se if you would set center deadzone at minimal values. Of course I'm talking about normal mode not the raw mode.
Hey so if I keep the centre deadzone to 0 in 2042 I do get a fair bit of drift, that’s if I’ve kept the minimum deadzones to 0 in nexus software. Before the 6.25 I was also reducing the maximum modem to 90 in 2042, after the 6.25 I don’t need to do that. If I keep the minimum to 5 in 2042 then there is no drift.
G7 OG is 👑
Mechanical ⚙️ Savage Buttons 🏆🧟♂️
Hey the method shown in this video actually works for G7 as well, I should've mentioned that specially when mine was sitting under the monitor the whole time.
Do you think the g7 se or fusion pro 3 is better ?
Ah man FP3 has 4 back buttons and feels way better in hand, also for a potentiometer controller it has the manual calibration capability. We can’t ignore the 2 years warranty of PowerA either. If you only need 2 back buttons then definitely you can save a bit of money and G7se would be a perfect controller with 2 back buttons. The lack of trigger stops on G7se is a bit of a let down as well, FP3 only cuts 70% travel but still I prefer that over G7se. For me personally if I could only have one between them and FP3 higher price wasn’t a concern, the id opt for FP3 definitely.
Is there any way to overcome the spring tension loss because i play with the lowest deadzone on every game because it feels more responsive thay way but stick drift is really bothering me,i tried manual calibration many times before but eventually i end up getting drift again and again
I have the lt trigger that only waits for 240 and some or 250 unless I force a little on the triggers it waits for 255 in the Nexus application. Is this normal? 🙏
Hey the triggers should reach the maximum without pushing too hard on them. It’s happened to me before where the triggers were playing up after the calibration, definitely try the manual calibration method, and press the triggers slowly when calibrating. I think it’s not a faulty controller, just the calibration as I myself have experienced some issues.
Thank you very much for taking the time to answer me, the problem solved itself after 15 minutes that I stop clicking and replicating hope to make a break-in to the trigger and it works, the only thing that the left trigger and too sensitive as soon as I put my fingers on the trigger it activate so I changed the settings of trigger in the application nexus I put (5-100) instead of (0-100). The rest works very well, I really like the feel of the stick when you move it, it's too soft, probably the best I've tested. Can you tell me that I made a good choice in buying the gamesir g7 se to replace the basic xbox series controller? For info I'm on Xbox series s and I regularly play FC 24 , FORZA HORIZON 5 AND COD . 🙏🙏🙏🙏❤️❤️❤️
Bro the G7se is an amazing controller and like I showed in the video, it has some really useful options when it comes to longevity and usability. I think the controller will last you a long time and it's definitely worth it's price and more. One thing I'd recommend is to reduce the minimum deadzones in the nexus app for your sticks, as standard they are at 10% which is a bit high imo, so definitely bring them down to 5%. I myself keep the minimum deadzones to 0 in nexus and use the in game deadzones if needed.@@filalitv7491
Thanks for the answer 🙏🙏🙏, I'm a basic PlayStation player and I switched to Xbox series s 2 years ago because the ps5 was nowhere to be found. Since I bought the Xbox, every 6 or 8 months at the most I have to buy a new controller. I always have drift problems with the left joystick. Once I bought a new red Xbox controller after 3 months of use I had drift in the left joystick. The problem is that all the xbox controllers I bought except the red one and the one that came with the Xbox series I had the same problem from the first time I used the new controller. The problem is that when I press one of the buttons it does it twice, for example, if I'm writing a message and I tap on the word play, one or two alphabets will be written twice, or if I'm playing FIFA 24 and I do a normal pass by pressing the A button once, it counts twice, so I get another type of pass out of another, and to do it normally you have to press A twice.
I hope this controller will work perfectly for at least 1 year without any problems. If it does, I'll only buy gamesir controllers.
Hi man, anyway to calibrate a standard series X/s controller? If you do it on PC would then still be calibrated on Xbox ? Or can you do it directly from the Xbox? And is the standard series X/s controller always been using raw mode? Anyway to change this? Thanks
Hey that’s the biggest issue I have that we can’t recalibrate the standard and series controller. I’ve read that there are some softwares used by repairers that can recalibrate sticks, but haven’t seen anything we can use ourselves to do it. One of the biggest advantages of third party controllers is the recalibration option they provide. My series 2 is so badly calibrated and there is nothing I can do to remedy that.
Yeah my sticks are sloppy now too. Pondering looking at replacing the springs but really don’t want to rip them open.
I think that is a destructive process.
Bro thanks for sharing, I’ve seen comments where people are saying their sticks are 100% fine even after serious use, has me thinking if they haven’t disabled the 10% deadzone that’s applied out of box. If you do end up changing the spring, any chance you could make a video and share on RUclips? That’d be amazing!
did the g7 se get an update to it's polling rate?
Hey not yet, T4 kalied has the option in its software but Nexus has no option for 1000hz yet.
I just got the normal g7 not the se, what should I have the stick dead zones at? Should I put it to 0% initial and max for the outside?
Hey yes that’s how I’ve kept mine, it introduces a bit of drift at rest with 0 deadzones, in my experience using the in game deadzones works better for me, then using the nexus deadzones for some reason. I’d recommend play around with the raw mode as well, see if you prefer the 100max with out raw and 100max with raw. One good way is to create one profile with raw enabled and one without. Play with the in game sensitivity options, the idea is to make you feel totally connected with your aim on screen. I personally think the options Gamesir have given us are amazing, we can really dial in the feel of the controller to our liking.
Okay thank you, so I should put the outside to 100% no matter if it’s on raw or not and just mess around with raw on and off to see which is better?. Also would you change the trigger dead zone or just leave them as they are
@@Brendan14 hey yes keep the 100 and try a profile with raw and one without raw. I have a video on sticks calibration which has a section on trigger settings and what’s worked best for me, I’ve pasted the link below to the video m, hope this helps.
ruclips.net/video/9G-0R0iAo3k/видео.htmlsi=ic-UML2ZF64NCLIK
Thank you very much
@@Brendan14yo how is it working now ?
where do you get your joysticks from
bc i couldnt find any gamesir g7 se accessories
Hey I’m using the normal G7 sticks on my SE. You can actually use any after market xbox thumbsticks in the G7 and G7se thanks to the manual calibration option.
@@thephototechySo I can't just change sticks without calibration?
What about the audio issue for wired controllers?
My control led it's flashing after an update...do you know how to fix it?
Hey you can do a manual calibration and that should fix that, this seems to have happened to others as well. I have a video showing the manual calibration process, link is below thanks.
ruclips.net/video/9G-0R0iAo3k/видео.htmlsi=UjE_9JR6OpBlluEN
@@thephototechy thanks dude. i followed the steps and it's going well..thanks
my trigger button doesn't work anymore (the RT) anything i can do to fix that???
Hey have you tried the manual calibration? Also when you do the calibration press the triggers in slowly and a bit firm toward the end. Happened to me once and was able to fix it doing a manual calibration.
@@thephototechyi already try, but the light don't turn on, and i did that 4 5 times and it still not work
@@TamTran-vf9zf hey so pressing and holding the Xbox,menu and view buttons in and plugging the controller in doesn’t start manual calibration?
@@thephototechy yes
@@TamTran-vf9zf hey what about the nexus software? Can you do a calibration through that?
How long do you think G7se will last?
Hi phototechy, I like you’re videos a lot, what is faster in use these triggers or the ones from the power a fusion pro3? The power a fusion pro has trigger stops but the gamesir has software to change the deadzone of the triggers.
And also how easy are the paddles to press (how muchforce needed) compared to the fusion pro?
Mate this is so crazy, I’m playing with the fusion pro 3 right now. Trying to make a video talking about 1000hz vs others on Xbox.
Fusion pro3 also has Hall effect triggers but they don’t auto adjust max deadzones at the shortest trigger stop, I did make a video showing a way to do that with manual calibration. So if max deadzone adjusted on PowerA with manual calibration the triggers are ok. Between the G7se with hair trigger option and FP3 I wouldn’t say I’d but the fusion for triggers. Saying that the 4 back buttons on fusion is a big plus, honestly changes how I play the game. Actuation wise G7se back buttons requires a bit less force, it FP3 has a nice texture on the back buttons, so usage wise both perform really well.
If you are ok with only 2 back buttons, then definitely go for the G7se, honestly with the recent update it has really blown the competition away. I’ll be shooting a video talking about the response and feel on Monday, basically a bit of sharing the experience of G7se with 1000hz vs Gambit, FP3, Raikiri, Nacon rev X and EswapX. It’s not a full blown comparison but a general talk and what I feel the difference with 1000hz update.
i have xbox serie if i buy this controler are you sure 100% i will never have problem with stickdrift with this ?
Hey so this is what the industry is calling the HE sticks (drift proof). As you can see in the video, the spring can lose tension and develop slop which in turn causes drift at rest. This typer of drift is not game breaking as it's only at rest and some deadzones can help eliminate that. What happens to the magnets after some use or if we see these developing other issues where they miss inputs, we just don't know that yet. One thing for sure they won't have the potentiometer failing stick drift. Potentiometer sticks are rated for 2 million cycles and K-silver hall effect sticks are rated for 5 million cycles. One thing has me worried is they haven't given a number for the tact switch in the stick. Alps rate their's 500k minimum Favorunion has 2 models, cheap one is 100k and higher one has 1 million press rating. So which one Ksilver is using we don't know.
@thephototechy Regarding the switches that are in the sticks that you mention being worried about them wearing out. To mitigate the situation, I don't use them. I have both stick buttons mapped to the rear buttons.
@@tcrviper hey that’s a good idea if you don’t need the back buttons doing any other function. The rear buttons used here are normal tact switches and they usually have a lifespan of 1m presses, some are even shorter than that like 500k, so they can be a point of failure as well. Of course will depend on our play style and how much we use them. From experience my elite series 1 lasted well over 6 years of serious game time and back buttons even the sticks were fine, it was actually the button in the left stick that gave out.
This fixed the issue i was having. 🙏🏾
I have this controller for 3weeks now I’m getting stuck drift how I fix it ?
Hey the method I’ve shown in the video really helps to distribute the drift equally. How much drift do you have? If it’s more than 10% I’d say reach out to gamesir as that’d be too much deadzone needed to counter.
@@thephototechy I have it at 10%
@@Javggoat did you check if it’s all in one direction? Or is equally distributed? Having the perfect centre point will mean only 5%-6% deadzones will eliminate that. 10% in my opinion is a lot and will harm game play.
@@thephototechy so out at 5% dead zone & see if it stick drift?
@@Javggoat yes try at 5% to see how much register you have at rest, you can also check at 0 deadzone and see how much input is being register.
my controller joystick is broken but i don’t know how to fix it and they joystick feels stick everytime i move it also the joystick moves up and left and i just bought it to
I had drift cause I caused it but it was about .7 x and 1.7 y and I just reset the controller well drifting like you said works fine now
I'm now so confused , doesn't it have hall effect thing , shouldn't have any drift whatsoever !??
Hey yes these should never get the potentiometer failing drift but centre spring, however, is a different story. Not having it perfectly centred is not game breaking drift at all and like i showed in the video, G7se has the amazing feature of manual calibration, through which we can select a centre point. Also its getting very rare to get a true 0 deadzone now a day as people want to see a perfect centre. I think its a downgrade for performance as I find having true 0 deadzones and using in game deadzones works better.
@@thephototechy Thanks for the reply , I got the point now , I must had a misconception about what stick drift really means , I'm learning more through your videos very informative , keep it up 👌
I only play fps and need a new controller. My Elite 2 keeps having problems... What would you recommend? G7 SE or Snakebyte Gamepad Pro?
I wouldn't recommend Snakebyte. Their customer service wouldn't help with the controller randomly disconnecting during gsmeplay and told me to talk to Amazon.
Amazon was telling me to talk to the manufacturer. So I returned both of our controllers because both of them kept disconnecting randomly less than a month after we bought them.
So the anti stick drift controller got stick drift?!?! I literally bought this thing!Thats very frustrating…
Hey this isn't the same stick drift like a worn out potentiometer. this is due to the centre srping getting loose after use, in my case its a bit more as other reviewers havent had this issue. Like I mentioned the manual calibration helps alot in managing this and if this is the maximum amount of drift after 70 hours of serious multiplayer gaming, then this is actually a very good result for a controller that has no built in deadzones.
its the springs bro not the sticks
Second replacement they keep giving controllers with defective thumb stick and back button does a weird sound not normal
How do i update to 1000hz pulling rate? i saw that they had introduced it but i cannot find it in the gamesir app
Bro where did you see they introduced it? I can’t find it anywhere. It’s definitely not on the 6.25 update.
I bought this controller from Amazon and loved it until it just started randomly drifting like 1 hour after it came
Hey check how much drift you have, also try the manual calibration. I personally don’t keep any minimum deadzones in nexus app and use in game deadzones to avoid drift at rest.
did it get th 1000hz polling rate?
Hey not yet, I have a feeling it’s being delayed due to Microsoft. The recent blocking of non licensed third party controllers might be an indication that Xbox will open 1000hz after the November 12 at some point, but that’s just my guess let’s see when we get that 1000hz option.
Only problem I’ve had with this controller is just getting used to the way the sticks feel especially on a game like COD. I had no drift at all and even put a tall kontrol freek on my right stick and the aiming just felt weird, wobbly and fast once I did get out of the deadzone area. Hall effect sticks definitely take a whole to get used to. And this controller is tiny, I like to use bumpers to aim and shoot I cannot use triggers for some reason, and this controller makes it so I can’t use the bumpers and the back buttons at the same time. Definitely worth the $40-45 price but takes a while to get used to and find the right set up with the app. Also being able to swap sticks is really nice and will probably help one of my issues so far. Im using a DS4 with the Sony back button for right now and the latency on it isn’t the best but it’s close to what the G7 SE can get to. But stick drift and playing games like COD that go hard on your controller in general is why I decided to try it out.
Hey that difference when playing HE sticks is in every HE controller I’ve tried so far. The best thing about the sticks is definitely the longevity, specially when we have options like manual calibration given to us.
got one and the entire right stick does nothing
so , g7se or xbox one controller?
Hey so if wireless is a must then Xbox own controller for sure, but if you can deal with a wire then G7se is better than Xbox controller when it comes to performance for sure.
thx Sir! one more question pls, Is there a way to power off/turn off the GameSir G7 SE without unplugging it from the USB port?
Wtf hall effect got stick drift also?
Hey bro this isn't the drift like the worn out potentiometer, which'll leave the controller unusable as it'll affect aiming. This type of drift is caused by the centre spring loosing its strength after use. The video is meant as a showcase of the amaing manual calibration Gamesir has for its controllers, which really helped me to rectify the problem. The controller was still usable without this method, just needed a bit larger deadzone then I'd like to use. So please bare this in mind that it's not the same kind of drift as the worn out potentiometers.
I have g7 se drift too I'm gonna try this fix
you are the man
Thanks bro!
So don’t lower past 10%
Hey they keep it at 10% as standard but in my case the controller felt very sluggish with those deadzones. I keep them at 0 in nexus and use in game deadzones for COD and BF2042, doing this way the controller feels way more responsive. I’d say if you are fine with the out of box experience then definitely don’t reduce the deadzones in nexus. The whole reason I reduced them was feeling inconsistent and sluggish response which improved for me a lot after making them 0.
My controllers thumb stick broken
Hey if it’s the plastic thumbstick top then you can replace it with a Xbox replacement ones, if it’s actual Ksilver module then you’ll need to go through Gamesir as the controller should be under warranty. I made a short on changing to the Xbox ones if that’s what needs replacing, hope this helps.
ruclips.net/user/shortslJ6g-DCWuBc?si=RxhNFr9Ul69j5-EL
cant back recenter quickly and drift is most problem😂
G7 was much better with mechanical switches and 2 face plates. But they said SE was drift free. Now we see it's not. And no, not because of different reasons. Still the same reason; low quality cheap material whether it's a spring or a potentiometer. Better to hold on to our good old Xbox X and PS5 controllers. I am using them for 2 years and still no problems.
I already burned through 3 "good old" PS5 controllers. So yeah, at least for PC I'll be switching to either Gamesir or Snakebyte Hall-Effect stick gamepad soon.
I never had stick drift on PS2, PS3, PS4 or Xbox 360 controllers though. May just be bad luck? I dunno. All I know is that I'm very frustrated about trash-quality 70€ gamepads.
God told me to get the G7 😂
Listening to God has worked out very well for me 💫
The mechanical Face buttons alone are reason to go with the original.
@@StoneyWoney I assure you that you'll burn your brand new hall effect controllers much sooner than that. Actually they will burn themselves up without much help from you too.
@@mkatakm
1. I don't believe any word you just said.
2. I'll just get the 35€ Snakebyte Gamepad. Even if your vague "assurance" should be right, then at least they'll break within the warranty time, and not like the Dualnonsense controllers shortly after. And even if they should last just long enough to get past the warranty and then break...well then that's 35€ less wasted than on the Dualnonsense.
@@StoneyWoney why should I lie to you? To get what? Please go on, burn your money, nobody is holding you back.
And read my comment carefully, I don't mention snake whatever at all. It may be better or worse.
Also this guy himself says that
"this is the maximum amount of drift after 70 hours of serious multiplayer gaming"
as a response to lizardon7096. Read it yourself if you don't believe me.
So perhaps there is no problem as long as you won't play seriously.
Or, if 70 hours of serious gameplay is enough warranty time for your money.
bro this doesn’t work
Hey man I’ve used this a good few times on my G7se and G7, just how I showed the numbers in the video I’ve been able to select a new centre point every time. Just now we got a new 1000hz update and I calibrated both my controllers in the same manner with the slop equally distributed.
👍
Massive stick drift after three weeks of moderate use.
Thanks so much
Danke sehr sehr informativ
You are most welcome bro!
@@thephototechy good job
I thought stick drift wasnt possible on hall effect and you already have it.
The drift that can happen is from the springs giving out, there's really not a way to combat that. They can't get drift due to natural wear and tear of the potentiometers grinding down.
I thought it doesn't get drift
Hey so this is just due to the centre spring being loose after serious use, this isn't the same as the worn out potentiometer which will be a game breaking drift. Also the manual calibration method I've shown in the video is an amazing option for users to maintain this issue. I know hall effect are being praised as anti stick drift but they are still prone to centre spring drift which isn't a big problem, it's something every controller has if they don't have built in deadzones to hide it.
lol and people saying is not possible
My "anti drift" controller got drift in only one month 🤣🤣🤣
Lol me too have u fix it ?
@@Javggoatthere's no way of solving it, follow the video instructions, it helps to make it a little less agressive
@@ElMerz18 what u go on to fix it ?
@@JavggoatI've been trying to reduce the drift as much as I can by calibrating it with the website showed in the video, tbh it's not the controller fault, I gave it an "accidental" smack in the joystick while playing and it's been with an insane drift since then lmao
Controller is pretty cheap just buy another
Just blow it bruh
edge?! eww, brother eww 😂
Plss someone tell me, do i need to do Calibration on new Controller, i bought this controller 🎮 Yesterday.. and what is the RAW mode for sticks..?? What it does..??
1000 Hz update today for the g7 se. If you're a competitive f p s gamer, this is the update you were waiting for. Holy shit!!!!! Best controller on the market for the money by far. What a beast of a controller.
Hey yes I’ve been using it since yesterday and what an update for sure!
i have a drift if i use 1000hz whys that?
@@1905dgkndo you have a drift in fortnite?
@@khalaf8086yea i have it
Yet another quality video