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G7se should still be ok, but I do need to test this myself. Eswap will only overclock on pc as it’s the usb overclock method and not the controller.

@@thephototechy can i ask when you test that the g7se mate for the 1000hz let you us know you are the best

@@thephototechy how much use eswap on xbox 250 or 500 hz

Hey bro do the calibration again but keep the triggers at full length. Also check out my new video as we now have software options to reduce trigger deadzones, so this workaround is not needed anymore.

@@thephototechyYeah, I wish I watched that video first! 😂 Will give that a try thanks for the quick reply! Useless at this stuff!

Bro not gonna lie, I only tested the audio output and wasn’t happy with the result, but that’s something on most cheaper third party controllers. Only the stealth ultra, EswapX and Raikiri come close to elite series 2. Will check for mic though and see if it’s an issue in mine as well. What firmware you on? Also did you use T4k app or manual method?

@@thephototechy i used the the t4k app. i also need to recalibrate the controller if you can help with that for the kaleid

@@GHOSTZVKES hey recalibration is exactly like the G7se, you can do a manual one or thought the app. I’ve done a few times and the manual one works perfectly just like before. Check the link below for instructions. www.gamesir.hk/pages/tutorial-how-to-use-gamesir-g7-se

Hey bro, there’s an update for the app as well with a lot of new features. I’ve made a video covering this if you are interested. The additional features are nice to have for the controller for sure.

Bro it’s a torx driver I believe, I had one laying around in a kit that fit but don’t k ow exactly what size it is 🤦🏽‍♂️

trying to figure this out myself lol lmk how it goes for you

Ah man that’s frustrating bro. Honestly the app is way overdue now, this whole thing of connecting to a pc to do any change gets really frustrating.

I figured it out. You have to uninstall any other remapping programs for it to work. Found it on reddit

Great tutorial tho, one of the best I've seen. You have a new follower

Hey so you have to pry open the back top cover which then shows all the hidden screws. Be careful opening the thing as my trigger assembly moved a bit, so I need a bit larger min deadzone on one trigger to not have a slight register at rest.

@@thephototechy you were able to pry off the back after removing only those two screws in the weights compartments?

@@aghilesabdesselam9070 yeah so the top back part is a cover only, once you get that off, you’ll see more screws to take out, then you can open it.

Hey bro the Xbox sticks are a good idea if you find the aim response a bit slow, or if you have some Xbox Kontrolfreeks you’d like to use. But I do believe with in game settings, the normal G7/G7se sticks can work well too. I’m using the normal sticks right now, as they keep the drift number a bit low, so I can play with only a 1-2% deadzone, instead of 3-5% I’d need on Xbox tops.

Hey bro, raw mode would be good if you find the aim response sluggish. It just increases register per increment. One downside could be the minimum deadzones needed for your copy, as that’ll depend on the amount of drift you have and how much deadzone you need to avoid it.

Also i have the g7 controler the white one is that good

Hey so they can auto update the app, but I don’t think they can force a firmware update on the controller. I have the updated app and still has the 1000hz working on my G7se. If they do make a force removal, it’ll be on the Xbox end and that could be through a system update. Hopefully wont happen but it’s a possibility, as Microsoft apparently mentioned competitive fairness being a reason as well for its removal.