Don't blame the resistor for your poor mount. It is stated that they need to be mounted to metal and away from plastic or anything that can short out. It was your poor choice in where you mounted them.
That may be true but do you really want those things in your vehicle that can cause a lot of damage or even a fire? I don’t think so. Do it the right way and be safe.
I'ma just go ahead and say it as I'm an automotive accessories installer of over 20years. That is a Ballist resistor with heatsink "the metal housing" it's designed to get hot that's how it work. It turns excess load into heat. Think of it as your radiator. It needs air flow most importantly and would you cable tie wires to your radiator?. Point is installed in the correct way with airflow, screwed to the vehicle properly and with sufficient air flow then they will live a happy life for ever. I'm by no means having a dog but I watch you to learn what you do and in turn this is what I do. Hope it helps. Having said that it is still worth the extra money but honestly it is doing the same thing but with no heat. Doesn't mean it won't release the white man's magic white smoke either lol.
Just to add with that flasher module upgrade you retain you fast flash circuit indicating a blown globe 'led' unlike Ballist resistor s you lose the fast flash blown globe indication. That's why I would spend my hard earned.
@@charliemagoo7943 Trouble with that is your installing in the wrong location then. Common sense. Again if your new radiator said install in the trunk in its packaging, would you? Difference between DIY and Professional.
Philip Perry I have a 2012 Duramax and I don’t have a flasher relay. Is there a module to change or I have to stick with the resistors? But I screwed my resisters to metal to dissipate the heat
@@jamesbatdorf1665 the flashers are controlled by body control module. The module can be programmed with an added vci to delete bulb outage detection. Our dealership does it for about $150. Dont have to worry about resistors overloading module then. Have seen several boards melted from resistors especially if 4 way flashers are used
Someone already said it in your comments but I did the same thing. Customer came in with those ballast resistors on their 14 RAM. Well they melted the headlight assemblies where they were wired in at lol. I remote mounted them on the core support so they got the airflow and they could dissipate their heat into surrounding metal of the core support. The vehicle comes in pretty frequently at the shop, next time it comes in I'mma peek at it and see if it's still holding up lol
Hello, thanks for advice. I have a 2002 ford taurus and I have so far replaced my back up lamps and head lights with LEDs. I would like to go for front turn signals. Not sure if it will hyper flash with them. Is that part you installed available at any autoparts store or did you have to special order it?
Thanks for the information.. I like your video...Thank you for taking the time. Like you said, you live and learn... Just one question on a slightly different topic. I don't know if you have a video for this. I want to install LED bulbs for my daytime running lights. 2000 Silverado and they are 3157 bulbs. I had a friend say that they are not going to last long. Would these need some type of resistor? What would you recommend?
I'm not expert , I got LED lights on my 08 chevy silverado. WhT do you suggest to install as resistor ? Or what relay . My lights flash like crazy when turn signal is flashing 😅
Is there an option/lighting control module for the Hyper flash for a 2018 Chevy Colorado? I only see 2 fuses for left and right rear blinker…it’s like the light control module doesn’t even exist…
Makes sense .... they came with my DRLS for my Q50 and I've already bought 2 sets of lights and they start flashing by themselves (like strobes) I just bought some Morimoto load resistors so hopefully this helps?!
Or just stick with less powerful but still enough to prevent hyperflash, sylvania - load equalizer resistor. Instead of of 50W they shoved on the little one. The sylvania is 27.5W. The little 50W resistors operate about 5 minutes, and the heat gets up to 330 degrees Fahrenheit. That’s why the mini 2” gold resistors get super hot. But the 27.5W sylvania - load equalizer resistors gets hot for around 180. So that’s way better and more efficient. Mine has led flasher relay by novita LM449. For my 2015 lifted Scion xB. And it works beautifully.
If I have two options between buying the bulbs with a chip like the Lastif or installing the resistance, what is the best option? I think that if the resistor gets hot is better than the bulb.
Great video. How do you get both headlamps to come on? I installed a ISSYAUTO flasher in my 2003 and everything works great. The LM487 wouldn't work. I have a 2017 2500HD and I'm trying to figure out how to do a full LED swap without resistors. It doesn't seem to be easy to just change a flasher swap? I bought CANBUS ERROR FREE bulbs but the still Hyper Flash.
@RustbeltMechanic I was actually lookin forward to swap all the halogens and incandescent bulbs from interior and exterior for my family’s 2017 Toyota sienna LE, especially the led bulb turn signal lights as well. I want to installed the sylvania zevo 3157 front and 7440 rear. I have the Novita led flasher relay LM449. But here’s the sucks part, Toyota made a very stupid idea to move the oem relay somewhere else. Instead of under the steering wheel which is a nice spot, they moved behind the gauge panels and it’s the worse thing they ever did. So I got two options. Either get the ultra bright auxito with a built in resistors. Or just get not only just a load equalizer resistors, but as a plug and play version. Which I prefer those for now. I will use those, and for the front under the hood of the sienna. It has nice room full of sheet metal frame to mount the resistor with 50 watts. So I prefer those with 3157 socket connectors as a plug and play that it came with. And I’m also gonna get but not installed with a 7440 for the rear, and see if it’s enough power to mount just the front to get rid of the hyperflash and not needing the resistors for the rear 7440. I just wish Toyota shouldn’t move that relay in the first place. That would save my time for that. What are ur thoughts on that? And just for the heck of it, how much is it to have some mechanic installed the led flasher relay for us for 2017 Toyota sienna LE, and the relay is behind the gauge cluster, that needs to remove the plastics panels and gauge clusters for that?
Digital flashers are good if they are an option. But your resistor failure was user error. Resistors get hot, there's tabs to mount it for a reason, you should have had it mounted to something metal, maybe even with some heat sink compound. I like to start with the flasher if it's available, if it's not, resistors properly mounted are more than adequate.
It seemed fine but if you look at the rear it would flash both the lights like my hazerds where on when I turned my right blinker on but was fine in the cab and front of truck
I just did this to my 2006 Silverado. When I plugged mine in for the first time, everything seemed like it worked as it should. I did a full walk around and did great. Then I unplugged it and plugged it back in to make sure it was seated correctly then tried the lights again and it did what you mentioned. My from signals works like it should my rear lights flash like hazards, even my license plate lights. However, when I turn on my headlights, no turn signal or hazards work. Did you get this resolved?
07-13 doesn’t have flasher, turn signals are controlled by BCM. Heard reprogramming bcm doesn’t fix hyper flash on front turn signals. So resistor is kinda the only option
I did all JDM astar blubs, and I also ordered that flasher module. I still can’t put in my rear turn signal led blubs because one side or the other stays on. After doing alittle experimenting, resistors are the only thing that would allow me to use leds in the front and rear. All that being said I was not comfortable putting them on in the front just because of the high amount of heat, 120-150 degrees( I shot them with my heat gun). Any idea how to get around this? All stock head and tail light housings
I wired one side of my rogue with that style resistor, turned on the lights and turn signal and let it blink for like 2 - 3 mins it got so hot I took that shit out and said no way, I knew it would possibly melt something, at least you caught it before it really destroyed something.
The problem is not the resistor. In that application Watts = voltage squared divided by ohms. The heat has to go somewhere. Mount it on metal with heat sink compound to let the heat out. Alternatively use a higher ohm resistor. I bet that most modules would work with a 25 ohm or higher resistor, which generates much less heat. It’s math.
JUST LEAVE THE FA@@ING BLINKERS ALONE... DONT USE EM! a tap or two is enough been driving with this in vag bmw and benz for years, just ease of the blinkerlever,...
Excuses my ignorance but don't most new cars not have relays anymore? I did this on my 97 Celica but my 2018 civic most definitely does not have a flasher relay.
Don't blame the resistor for your poor mount. It is stated that they need to be mounted to metal and away from plastic or anything that can short out. It was your poor choice in where you mounted them.
That may be true but do you really want those things in your vehicle that can cause a lot of damage or even a fire? I don’t think so. Do it the right way and be safe.
WHY WOULD U WANT AN ITEM THAT WILL GET THAT HOT IN THE FIRST PLACE, IF THE LM47 WORKS GET THE BETTER PRODUCT.
I'ma just go ahead and say it as I'm an automotive accessories installer of over 20years. That is a Ballist resistor with heatsink "the metal housing" it's designed to get hot that's how it work. It turns excess load into heat. Think of it as your radiator. It needs air flow most importantly and would you cable tie wires to your radiator?. Point is installed in the correct way with airflow, screwed to the vehicle properly and with sufficient air flow then they will live a happy life for ever. I'm by no means having a dog but I watch you to learn what you do and in turn this is what I do. Hope it helps. Having said that it is still worth the extra money but honestly it is doing the same thing but with no heat. Doesn't mean it won't release the white man's magic white smoke either lol.
Just to add with that flasher module upgrade you retain you fast flash circuit indicating a blown globe 'led' unlike Ballist resistor s you lose the fast flash blown globe indication. That's why I would spend my hard earned.
Trouble with resistors is there is no air flow where they are used.
@@charliemagoo7943 Trouble with that is your installing in the wrong location then. Common sense. Again if your new radiator said install in the trunk in its packaging, would you? Difference between DIY and Professional.
Philip Perry I have a 2012 Duramax and I don’t have a flasher relay. Is there a module to change or I have to stick with the resistors? But I screwed my resisters to metal to dissipate the heat
@@jamesbatdorf1665 the flashers are controlled by body control module. The module can be programmed with an added vci to delete bulb outage detection. Our dealership does it for about $150. Dont have to worry about resistors overloading module then. Have seen several boards melted from resistors especially if 4 way flashers are used
You was suppose to mount the resistor to the metal away from anything because it gets hot...I’ve used these for years with not one issue
Someone already said it in your comments but I did the same thing. Customer came in with those ballast resistors on their 14 RAM. Well they melted the headlight assemblies where they were wired in at lol. I remote mounted them on the core support so they got the airflow and they could dissipate their heat into surrounding metal of the core support. The vehicle comes in pretty frequently at the shop, next time it comes in I'mma peek at it and see if it's still holding up lol
flasher modules is the preferred way but a lot of modern vehicles do not have flasher modules as the flasher is controlled by the BCM
Hello, thanks for advice. I have a 2002 ford taurus and I have so far replaced my back up lamps and head lights with LEDs. I would like to go for front turn signals. Not sure if it will hyper flash with them. Is that part you installed available at any autoparts store or did you have to special order it?
Can you tell what one to use for 2012 4Runner 5gen hyperflash ?
Thanks for the information.. I like your video...Thank you for taking the time. Like you said, you live and learn...
Just one question on a slightly different topic. I don't know if you have a video for this. I want to install LED bulbs for my daytime running lights. 2000 Silverado and they are 3157 bulbs. I had a friend say that they are not going to last long. Would these need some type of resistor? What would you recommend?
I use the zero sylvania 3057 led in my 2005 Chevy Tahoe 3 or 4 months ago and still working with no problems
So I have a 2013 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 and I can't seem to find that Relay on my Truck?? I've had the truck since brand New
I'm not expert , I got LED lights on my 08 chevy silverado. WhT do you suggest to install as resistor ? Or what relay . My lights flash like crazy when turn signal is flashing 😅
Exactly but where is the flasher on a 2009 Chevy Silverado? I can't seem to locate it. Please help!
Is there an option/lighting control module for the Hyper flash for a 2018 Chevy Colorado? I only see 2 fuses for left and right rear blinker…it’s like the light control module doesn’t even exist…
it is possible the colorado is like my nissan frontier and does not have that module as it is controlled by the BCM
Why are your 4ways jacked up?one side blinks on and off, the other dim and bright.
DOES THE LM487 WORK ON A 2002 SILVERADO, I SEE SEVERAL GUYS TRY THIS AND DID NOT WORK MODEL INFO WOULD BE HELPFUL WHEN RECOMMENDING A PRODUCT....
Makes sense .... they came with my DRLS for my Q50 and I've already bought 2 sets of lights and they start flashing by themselves (like strobes) I just bought some Morimoto load resistors so hopefully this helps?!
Or just stick with less powerful but still enough to prevent hyperflash, sylvania - load equalizer resistor. Instead of of 50W they shoved on the little one. The sylvania is 27.5W.
The little 50W resistors operate about 5 minutes, and the heat gets up to 330 degrees Fahrenheit. That’s why the mini 2” gold resistors get super hot.
But the 27.5W sylvania - load equalizer resistors gets hot for around 180. So that’s way better and more efficient.
Mine has led flasher relay by novita LM449. For my 2015 lifted Scion xB. And it works beautifully.
Badass! Can i do this to my 04 gmc yukon?
If I have two options between buying the bulbs with a chip like the Lastif or installing the resistance, what is the best option? I think that if the resistor gets hot is better than the bulb.
What about a 2018 Silverado 1500?
Great video. How do you get both headlamps to come on? I installed a ISSYAUTO flasher in my 2003 and everything works great. The LM487 wouldn't work. I have a 2017 2500HD and I'm trying to figure out how to do a full LED swap without resistors. It doesn't seem to be easy to just change a flasher swap? I bought CANBUS ERROR FREE bulbs but the still Hyper Flash.
Thanks great video and great tips
Above 2007 models it is programmed in BCM so there is no flasher to replace! Use resistors or ger reprogrammed.
@RustbeltMechanic
I was actually lookin forward to swap all the halogens and incandescent bulbs from interior and exterior for my family’s 2017 Toyota sienna LE, especially the led bulb turn signal lights as well.
I want to installed the sylvania zevo 3157 front and 7440 rear.
I have the Novita led flasher relay LM449.
But here’s the sucks part, Toyota made a very stupid idea to move the oem relay somewhere else.
Instead of under the steering wheel which is a nice spot, they moved behind the gauge panels and it’s the worse thing they ever did.
So I got two options. Either get the ultra bright auxito with a built in resistors.
Or just get not only just a load equalizer resistors, but as a plug and play version. Which I prefer those for now.
I will use those, and for the front under the hood of the sienna. It has nice room full of sheet metal frame to mount the resistor with 50 watts.
So I prefer those with 3157 socket connectors as a plug and play that it came with. And I’m also gonna get but not installed with a 7440 for the rear, and see if it’s enough power to mount just the front to get rid of the hyperflash and not needing the resistors for the rear 7440.
I just wish Toyota shouldn’t move that relay in the first place. That would save my time for that.
What are ur thoughts on that?
And just for the heck of it, how much is it to have some mechanic installed the led flasher relay for us for 2017 Toyota sienna LE, and the relay is behind the gauge cluster, that needs to remove the plastics panels and gauge clusters for that?
Any idea what a 2018 F150 equivalent relay part number would be?
Opie from SOA?
Digital flashers are good if they are an option. But your resistor failure was user error. Resistors get hot, there's tabs to mount it for a reason, you should have had it mounted to something metal, maybe even with some heat sink compound.
I like to start with the flasher if it's available, if it's not, resistors properly mounted are more than adequate.
What should I get for my 06silverado 1500?
Same exact part
So what do I do when there is no seperate flash relay ,its part of the dash panel
Where is that relay on a 2011 Silverado
I have resistors in my headlights because without them I get an error on the dash, will the flasher work for headlights too?
wow never heard of that what car.. usually they are plug and play for headlights which brand did you get
Newer Silverados don’t have a regular flasher relay so you have to use the resistors or expense non hyper flash bulbs
what i should i get for my 2015 silverado 2500
Thanks for this I didn’t know they made a special flasher for leds 🙄😂😂 I will now get this and not look stupid for fast flashing
It seemed fine but if you look at the rear it would flash both the lights like my hazerds where on when I turned my right blinker on but was fine in the cab and front of truck
I just did this to my 2006 Silverado. When I plugged mine in for the first time, everything seemed like it worked as it should. I did a full walk around and did great. Then I unplugged it and plugged it back in to make sure it was seated correctly then tried the lights again and it did what you mentioned. My from signals works like it should my rear lights flash like hazards, even my license plate lights. However, when I turn on my headlights, no turn signal or hazards work.
Did you get this resolved?
07-13 doesn’t have flasher, turn signals are controlled by BCM. Heard reprogramming bcm doesn’t fix hyper flash on front turn signals. So resistor is kinda the only option
I'm having the same issue. I guess our options are to only buy the resistors or buy a bulk with built in resistors.
My 2003 Saturn doesn't have a flasher box like that so I'm just going to use those hot resisters.....
there are some LEDs now with built in ones
Did you lose your cruise control when you took out your resistors? They is supposed to fix that crazy glitch.
Thanks for the led flasher relay tip. Great video!
the problem im having on my 94 chevy truck is ive tried the led relay and it still hyper flashes
Than get the Novita led flasher relay. Look and find which part number for ur specific Chevy application.
👍
I did all JDM astar blubs, and I also ordered that flasher module. I still can’t put in my rear turn signal led blubs because one side or the other stays on. After doing alittle experimenting, resistors are the only thing that would allow me to use leds in the front and rear. All that being said I was not comfortable putting them on in the front just because of the high amount of heat, 120-150 degrees( I shot them with my heat gun). Any idea how to get around this? All stock head and tail light housings
Hmmm...I run leds in front and rear and do not have that issue
buy led bulbs no hyper flash... they sell too..
HI. There is a solution for xenon?
I wired one side of my rogue with that style resistor, turned on the lights and turn signal and let it blink for like 2 - 3 mins it got so hot I took that shit out and said no way, I knew it would possibly melt something, at least you caught it before it really destroyed something.
“Just save yourself the headache in the long run” and run factory lights lol
LED’s are way to go. They last longer and brighter. Doesn’t produce that much heat an gets brighter.
First on the comments. Can't believe it!
The problem is not the resistor. In that application Watts = voltage squared divided by ohms. The heat has to go somewhere. Mount it on metal with heat sink compound to let the heat out. Alternatively use a higher ohm resistor. I bet that most modules would work with a 25 ohm or higher resistor, which generates much less heat. It’s math.
Nobody can put a resistor into the led unit. Wtf
Never say nobody
Seen the dirty max claim some blood lol.
She almost ALWAYS requires a little bit of that lol
@@RustbeltMechanic just like a jeep lol
Tried that flasher in my 04 Silverado and it didn't work at all
First you have to spend almost 4 minutes watching a hood cable replacement...? sheesh, why? Put it in a separate video. Please.
The aftermarket B\S will cost you every time
9 I 9
JUST LEAVE THE FA@@ING BLINKERS ALONE... DONT USE EM! a tap or two is enough been driving with this in vag bmw and benz for years, just ease of the blinkerlever,...
I tried to tell ya resistors were a bad idea brother.
Yep, quite a few people did, it’s of my own doing👍🏻
How would you fix for a 2015 Silverado?
You suppose to install them right, TO THE METAL. I haven't had and issue in 8 years.
Your intro is so annoying and a waste of valuable time. Just jump into the fix..
Stop whining and get over it lil
@@toyotabrony KMA
@@kasb58 English dude lol
The question is does that work for all vehicle?
Excuses my ignorance but don't most new cars not have relays anymore? I did this on my 97 Celica but my 2018 civic most definitely does not have a flasher relay.
How do they flash then?