The amount of $$$ you must spend on all this stuff to show us and test out is truly mind blowing. Thank you so much for doing this for all of us out there in the community! I'm a HUGE fan of the Tamiya spray cans!
I painted my Tamiya S15 Coppermix body with PS47. The body set uses plastic parts for the wing and side mirrors. I sprayed the plastic pieces with Tamiya gray primer (not the super fine version), then TS29 semi gloss black, and then used the PS47 over it. I did a couple very light coats of PS47 over, and it went on fine. Was actually really smooth. I did also top it off with TS13 gloss clear. It came out really well.
This comment helps me. I painted my Nissan GT-R body PS-18 metallic purple, but there was no matching TS paint for the plastic pieces, so I was wondering if I could use it. I talked with a couple people from AMain Hobbies and they said you could do it if you apply a clear gloss over it (like you said). I am probably going to try with grey primer over the plastic pieces, then the PS-18 that I have left, then the clear gloss. Looking forward to a beautiful purple with no adverse side effects.
I think it eats into the plastic, because it is designed to paint the lexan bodies from the inside, and adhere to the lexan, so it would eat into it a bit. And being painted on the inside, you would never see any blemishes like on the spoons, from the outside of the body.
@BR Man your like the Q (from james bond) of the youtube model channels, tirelessly working behind the scenes to figure out important info for the rest of us. cheers mate.
Tamiya ps paints are amazing on polycarbonate. A light first coat wait till solvents flashed and not glossy(sub 15mins). Then hammer down 1 to 2 heavy coats again waiting Till solvents flashed off. It eats into plastic and absolutely does not need primer. Lexan is painted from inside. Ps flat clear is nice cause you can then use any other paint on top of lexan. I put the cans in warm water first.
The ps55 is a very cool product. I tend to use it on the outside if the body. I score the protective covering over the fenders and stuff like it and spray then flat for a more scale affect. I also have been known to spray the inside of the body with PS55 and then your able to paint with the other line of paints not made for polycarbonate.
Tamiya PS Polycarbonate Spray Paint is a (synthetic) lacquer & requires a lacquer base coat...not acrylic or latex base coat. Lacquer paints have strong solvents (VOC's) & etches/melts plastic. Spraying PS paints on bare plastic or plastic without the correct/compatible primer causes wrinkling. A trick that can sometimes work is to spray "very light tack coats" that dry 'rapidly' before the PS lacquer attacks/melts the plastic. Each successive coat insulates the plastic after it dries. Lot to be said about spraying light sweeping coats...works best every time.
Thanks for this, I accidentally bought the ps-36 can instead so I was worried it might not work on plastic but thanks to your video I now know it works with lacquer primer!
I paint 1/24 scale POLYCARBONATE slot car bodies on the OUTSTIDE. As you say it is hard to get into the nooks and crannies of an LMP car with a rattle can and the finish starts getting heavy. I use SEM 39133 Flexible Primer Surfacer - LET it dry and sand it down and color coat with PS paints. These cars take a lot of abuse this has worked well for me.
@@barbatosrex9473 Thanks. Order placed. Since 12 year olds will be using this, I decided to just get the Genie 2 mixer from Typhoon because of the on/off switch on the front...
The part yall are missing here is lexon paint is designed to be painted backwards . Meaning on a model you put a base say silver down then paint your pearl over the top . With RC bodies you put your Pearl down then what ever color your base would be . Then when your done you need to seal it with a clear coat most of the time just dull clear coat to seal it all .
Thanks for the thorough review. Can any paint expert chime in: 1) is this safe for the plastic on gun pla? I’ve heard it cracks, I’ve heard it eats the plastic. I can’t get a specific color and it runs in PS Tamiya. So if the Mr hobby Laq primer is sufficient to protect it, I’ll use that. 2) can I still use tamiya TS flat/gloss coats over these?
I accidentally bought polycarbonate sprays instead of for plastic sprays and I was told it would eat the plastic so I wanted to know exactly how that worked and if I should just return and replace if I'm using them on gunpla. 🤔
If you ever get your hands on Bosny KT Gold Effect spray can, I would love to see your review on that. Always love your videos specially on spray cans 😊
only used flat clear once and i sprayed it on the inside of the rc body then the paint over it it came out more like a semi gloss than a flat i have also used ps46 on the spoilers and mirrors of rc car spraying in reverse of the body so i put the black down first then the ps46 over it for the colour shift effect then used a cheep clear from the local auto shop to go over it
Love your videos. Is there an additive you can add normal acrylic paint to work on Lexan. I mainly pain RC cars and want to get into airbrushing. Thanks for sharing.
A pal of mine often paints styrene bodies with Tamiya PS paints , to get a different look - no primer. The colours are good but come out a very semi gloss.
Hey there, I couldn't find it among your vids, maybe you've done before, but have you tested Ammo by MIG acrylics? (The non-metalic versions)? I've seen you test some metalixs by them though
Can you spray outside in cold weather, like around 0 degrees to maybe 10 degrees? If so what would be your advice in achieving optimal results this way?
I was wondering if you could try some different topcoats over some candy coats. Like go from gloss to flat, then satin, and then a matte. My thinking is that you might get an almost anodized look with matte. Unfortunately,I have no way of testing it right now as I can't afford an airbrush right now.
@@barbatosrex9473 That's awesome dude. I can't wait to see your paint lineup. When I get my airbrush, I would prefer to buy from hobbyists like yourself instead of name brands. Also, thank you for your in depth reviews. I like to know all there is to know about an item before I buy it, and you go over everything I would ever need to know about. Great work buddy.
I understand Re the airbrush comment you made, i have an idea though, check out the reviews on this channel of the super entry level air brushes Mr Rex has tested, the results will surprise you and the price is dirt cheap. Just trying to help, take it easy. jv.
Mr Barbatos I love youre skills with the spraycans, when I use a primer spray can on gunpla pieces I sometimes mess it up with too much paint or too little paint. Then I use Tamiya paint remover I recomend that you can test it and the Revell paint remover, Mr paint remover, Gaia notes paint remover, E7 paint remover and Modo paint remover. It would be interesting to know what is best, I have only tried Revell and Tamiya and I prefer Tamiya's because it has low odor and it has never destroyed any parts like the Revell that destroyed many gunpla parts even tho I was just carefully removing it with a brush and I did not soak it or anything like that.
Thank you for this video. I am researching using this paint in close proximity to hot lights. Do you know where I can find technical data regarding what temperature extremes the PS-5 black will withstand after curing?
I wonder if it was reacting with the thinner used in the airbrushed primers? Not sure what they use in the spray cans to thin it but that's a possibility.
But isnt the thinner evaporeted already by that time? Thinners are solvents like Acetone, N butyl acetate, Xylene and Toluene witch will evaporate quite fast.
I have a Tootsie Toy red Ferrari I am trying to repaint white. I tried the Tamiya TS spray and it flaked off. It’s a flexible plastic like a car bumper. Had to strip the paint off. Was thinking of using the PS white on it. Would you recommend priming it first with Mr. Surfacer 1500 the airbrush or just spray the PS on directly? Not sure if it will melt the plastic. What would you recommend?
@@barbatosrex9473 would you recommend priming or just spraying it straight on the bare plastic! Do you thing a polyurethane paint like Vallejo Premium or a Lexan paint would work better? Thanks.
Sure, I found them to stick fairly well. But I still like their standard spray cans for Gunpla if you don't have an airbrush. Mr Color Spray cans are great too
Anyone know of a cream colored polycarbonate paint? I am making a herbie the love bug rc replica, and all I see is white polycarbonate paint which is too bright.
I'm not sure if these would hold up for that. I tested Vallejo Premium Airbrush Paints recently here and with those I painted rubber balls and they held up great on those. I'd check those but there airbrush only. You might want to look into sneaker paints also, there's a few line ups of sneaker paint on the market
@@barbatosrex9473 yeah dont have airbrush setup at the moment. Right now want to refresh my previously white band that turns yellowish due to wear and tear. Thanks a lot for info.
I didn't buff them but I did use a primer. You can use them on plastic models as I've shown in the video but I still feel you will get better results with Tamiya's regular spray paints
Im using the ps anodized metralic blue on my latest project and it came out great. It sprayed thin and required many coats but other than that i didnt have any problems with it. I used the spoons first to test it and sprayed it over tamiya primer and then used tamiya clear. It dries matt so a clear was needed. Thanks for the test. Forgot to mention my latest project is a styrene kit. ruclips.net/p/PLbcIW8ECKWgPM1Ynjq3My3CVndnxSOfzm
To my understanding the PS paints don't have a good surface finish that's why they rely on the plastic of the body to create that smooth clear texture... And also to my understanding PS paints don't do well with it to me a primer they're not meant to go on top of each other...
The amount of $$$ you must spend on all this stuff to show us and test out is truly mind blowing. Thank you so much for doing this for all of us out there in the community! I'm a HUGE fan of the Tamiya spray cans!
Thanks my friend. Any money that I make here on the channel goes right back into it. Got a new vid posting tonight 👍
I painted my Tamiya S15 Coppermix body with PS47. The body set uses plastic parts for the wing and side mirrors. I sprayed the plastic pieces with Tamiya gray primer (not the super fine version), then TS29 semi gloss black, and then used the PS47 over it. I did a couple very light coats of PS47 over, and it went on fine. Was actually really smooth. I did also top it off with TS13 gloss clear. It came out really well.
Cool
This comment helps me. I painted my Nissan GT-R body PS-18 metallic purple, but there was no matching TS paint for the plastic pieces, so I was wondering if I could use it. I talked with a couple people from AMain Hobbies and they said you could do it if you apply a clear gloss over it (like you said). I am probably going to try with grey primer over the plastic pieces, then the PS-18 that I have left, then the clear gloss. Looking forward to a beautiful purple with no adverse side effects.
I think it eats into the plastic, because it is designed to paint the lexan bodies from the inside, and adhere to the lexan, so it would eat into it a bit. And being painted on the inside, you would never see any blemishes like on the spoons, from the outside of the body.
@BR Man your like the Q (from james bond) of the youtube model channels, tirelessly working behind the scenes to figure out important info for the rest of us. cheers mate.
Tamiya ps paints are amazing on polycarbonate. A light first coat wait till solvents flashed and not glossy(sub 15mins). Then hammer down 1 to 2 heavy coats again waiting Till solvents flashed off. It eats into plastic and absolutely does not need primer. Lexan is painted from inside. Ps flat clear is nice cause you can then use any other paint on top of lexan. I put the cans in warm water first.
The ps55 is a very cool product. I tend to use it on the outside if the body. I score the protective covering over the fenders and stuff like it and spray then flat for a more scale affect. I also have been known to spray the inside of the body with PS55 and then your able to paint with the other line of paints not made for polycarbonate.
Lexan paints do not need primer.
That is for TS, X-XF and such.
Love your vids.
Dudeeeee yes! Thanks for doing the Polycarb paint review. Us RC car folks thank you. Hope you do a few more brands esp. the new Traxxas one.
Tamiya PS Polycarbonate Spray Paint is a (synthetic) lacquer & requires a lacquer base coat...not acrylic or latex base coat. Lacquer paints have strong solvents (VOC's) & etches/melts plastic. Spraying PS paints on bare plastic or plastic without the correct/compatible primer causes wrinkling.
A trick that can sometimes work is to spray "very light tack coats" that dry 'rapidly' before the PS lacquer attacks/melts the plastic. Each successive coat insulates the plastic after it dries.
Lot to be said about spraying light sweeping coats...works best every time.
Thanks for this, I accidentally bought the ps-36 can instead so I was worried it might not work on plastic but thanks to your video I now know it works with lacquer primer!
I paint 1/24 scale POLYCARBONATE slot car bodies on the OUTSTIDE. As you say it is hard to get into the nooks and crannies of an LMP car with a rattle can and the finish starts getting heavy. I use SEM 39133 Flexible Primer Surfacer - LET it dry and sand it down and color coat with PS paints. These cars take a lot of abuse this has worked well for me.
I highly recommend Typhoon Paint mixers. They're the only ones that can mix a spray can
@@barbatosrex9473 Thanks. Order placed. Since 12 year olds will be using this, I decided to just get the Genie 2 mixer from Typhoon because of the on/off switch on the front...
The part yall are missing here is lexon paint is designed to be painted backwards . Meaning on a model you put a base say silver down then paint your pearl over the top . With RC bodies you put your Pearl down then what ever color your base would be . Then when your done you need to seal it with a clear coat most of the time just dull clear coat to seal it all .
Thank you for posting this video I'm waiting on my ps translucent paints for my car body. You're as awesome as usual 👍👍👍👍❤️❤️❤️❤️
Thank you that really helped me because I want to paint a plastic model car in a color that is only available as PS spray from Tamiya.
Thanks for the thorough review. Can any paint expert chime in:
1) is this safe for the plastic on gun pla? I’ve heard it cracks, I’ve heard it eats the plastic. I can’t get a specific color and it runs in PS Tamiya. So if the Mr hobby Laq primer is sufficient to protect it, I’ll use that.
2) can I still use tamiya TS flat/gloss coats over these?
I accidentally bought polycarbonate sprays instead of for plastic sprays and I was told it would eat the plastic so I wanted to know exactly how that worked and if I should just return and replace if I'm using them on gunpla. 🤔
If you ever get your hands on Bosny KT Gold Effect spray can, I would love to see your review on that. Always love your videos specially on spray cans 😊
thank you so much for the video. I'm getting into the hobby and really had to see a video like yours! :D
only used flat clear once and i sprayed it on the inside of the rc body then the paint over it it came out more like a semi gloss than a flat i have also used ps46 on the spoilers and mirrors of rc car spraying in reverse of the body so i put the black down first then the ps46 over it for the colour shift effect then used a cheep clear from the local auto shop to go over it
Great vid, thanks for sharing!
Love your videos. Is there an additive you can add normal acrylic paint to work on Lexan. I mainly pain RC cars and want to get into airbrushing. Thanks for sharing.
A pal of mine often paints styrene bodies with Tamiya PS paints , to get a different look - no primer. The colours are good but come out a very semi gloss.
Hey bro, does this work on Mini4wd Tamiya cowls? I have used TS on them, but I just purchased the PS version (I didn't see the tag)
Yes you can use these. Just keep in mind these are a little bit thicker so go with light layers
@@barbatosrex9473 thank u brother for the quick response. Much appreciated.
Hey there, I couldn't find it among your vids, maybe you've done before, but have you tested Ammo by MIG acrylics? (The non-metalic versions)? I've seen you test some metalixs by them though
Not yet but I will. I have a full set of them
I'm looking for blue colours wondering you do video showing all the blues they did and test on plastic spoons
Can you spray outside in cold weather, like around 0 degrees to maybe 10 degrees? If so what would be your advice in achieving optimal results this way?
I was wondering if you could try some different topcoats over some candy coats. Like go from gloss to flat, then satin, and then a matte. My thinking is that you might get an almost anodized look with matte. Unfortunately,I have no way of testing it right now as I can't afford an airbrush right now.
Good idea. I'll let you in on a secret, my paint line up out soon is anodized metal colors
@@barbatosrex9473 That's awesome dude. I can't wait to see your paint lineup. When I get my airbrush, I would prefer to buy from hobbyists like yourself instead of name brands. Also, thank you for your in depth reviews. I like to know all there is to know about an item before I buy it, and you go over everything I would ever need to know about. Great work buddy.
I understand Re the airbrush comment you made, i have an idea though, check out the reviews on this channel of the super entry level air brushes Mr Rex has tested, the results will surprise you and the price is dirt cheap. Just trying to help, take it easy. jv.
What do you use to prepare the surface of the polycarbonate prior to using the Tamiya (color) paint?
Mr Barbatos I love youre skills with the spraycans, when I use a primer spray can on gunpla pieces I sometimes mess it up with too much paint or too little paint. Then I use Tamiya paint remover I recomend that you can test it and the Revell paint remover, Mr paint remover, Gaia notes paint remover, E7 paint remover and Modo paint remover. It would be interesting to know what is best, I have only tried Revell and Tamiya and I prefer Tamiya's because it has low odor and it has never destroyed any parts like the Revell that destroyed many gunpla parts even tho I was just carefully removing it with a brush and I did not soak it or anything like that.
Great idea for a test. Thanks
Great idea for a test. Thanks
@@barbatosrex9473 No problem I am always up for suggestions!
Thank you for this video. I am researching using this paint in close proximity to hot lights. Do you know where I can find technical data regarding what temperature extremes the PS-5 black will withstand after curing?
The translucent white... if you shine a light on it will it glow?
can you paint glass with it?
Mr Barbados is there any difference in the electroplating ps paint and the normal ps paint? (ps 51-52)
Have you ever tried inspire airbrush paints? I'd love to know what you think of them.
If I using mr black gloss spray how many hours do I need to let it cure so I can paint it over
I wonder if it was reacting with the thinner used in the airbrushed primers? Not sure what they use in the spray cans to thin it but that's a possibility.
I was wondering that too.
But isnt the thinner evaporeted already by that time? Thinners are solvents like Acetone, N butyl acetate, Xylene and Toluene witch will evaporate quite fast.
@@statoilbensin2190 Good question.
how long do the fluorescent paints last before fading??
so you can mix products? like, use tamiya paint over mr. hobby primer/surfacer?? 🤔🤔🤔
Yes
I have a Tootsie Toy red Ferrari I am trying to repaint white. I tried the Tamiya TS spray and it flaked off. It’s a flexible plastic like a car bumper. Had to strip the paint off. Was thinking of using the PS white on it. Would you recommend priming it first with Mr. Surfacer 1500 the airbrush or just spray the PS on directly? Not sure if it will melt the plastic. What would you recommend?
I would test spray it on the back side but if it's a flexible type of plastic it should stick to it just fine
@@barbatosrex9473 would you recommend priming or just spraying it straight on the bare plastic! Do you thing a polyurethane paint like Vallejo Premium or a Lexan paint would work better? Thanks.
@@johnblack9885 early testing shows that the Vallejo paints are better. I will post a video on them very soon
Where did you find the airbrush stand?
has anybody tried mixing the ps46 with ps47 to see if you get pink to gold to green to purple it could be a fab colour
Maybe that can of primer is not made for polycarbonate?
What about the purple dude
Out of curiosity, would the Tamiya translucent colors work on plexiglass?
Yes they will. Light coats will do the trick
@@barbatosrex9473 awesome, thank you so much for the quick response! 👍
Would those paints work on gunpla parts directly without a primer?
Sure, I found them to stick fairly well. But I still like their standard spray cans for Gunpla if you don't have an airbrush. Mr Color Spray cans are great too
Anyone know of a cream colored polycarbonate paint? I am making a herbie the love bug rc replica, and all I see is white polycarbonate paint which is too bright.
Want to ask if there is a spray for gshock watch bands? Whether this type of spray is suitable?
I'm not sure if these would hold up for that. I tested Vallejo Premium Airbrush Paints recently here and with those I painted rubber balls and they held up great on those. I'd check those but there airbrush only. You might want to look into sneaker paints also, there's a few line ups of sneaker paint on the market
@@barbatosrex9473 yeah dont have airbrush setup at the moment. Right now want to refresh my previously white band that turns yellowish due to wear and tear. Thanks a lot for info.
What happened to the translucent purple?
this spray are suitable for military scale ?
I would go with Tamiya's AS line of sprays, they're specifically made for military kits
did you buff the surface of the spoons and use a primer ?
I didn't buff them but I did use a primer. You can use them on plastic models as I've shown in the video but I still feel you will get better results with Tamiya's regular spray paints
@@barbatosrex9473 thank you
old school lacquer lol
What type of pre filter are you using in your
extractor?
I used a standard home air filter that I get at the hardware store. I then cut them to fit
i have a questions will it work on my gundam?
It will but it is pretty thick
Did you show the purple?
I didn't, I forgot for some reason and that's something I normally don't do. I might show it in the community section on my channel
Amigo me podrias decir cual es azul mas parecido a el de subaru?
Can I use this on 1/24th scale model cars without primer?
You can. Just be sure to use several light coats. But I feel you'd be better off using there regular line of spray paints for 1/24 Scale car kits
@@barbatosrex9473 I actually made a purchase mistake because this is my first time buying a tamiya spray paint and yes thanks! I'll keep it in mind.
Do they have Tamiya metallic purple
Yes PS-18
33:07 G paints!! And the Christmas package that newtype released I know they sent you 😜
Im using the ps anodized metralic blue on my latest project and it came out great. It sprayed thin and required many coats but other than that i didnt have any problems with it. I used the spoons first to test it and sprayed it over tamiya primer and then used tamiya clear. It dries matt so a clear was needed. Thanks for the test. Forgot to mention my latest project is a styrene kit. ruclips.net/p/PLbcIW8ECKWgPM1Ynjq3My3CVndnxSOfzm
I'll let you in on a secret, my new paints out in about a week are anodized colors 😀
To my understanding the PS paints don't have a good surface finish that's why they rely on the plastic of the body to create that smooth clear texture... And also to my understanding PS paints don't do well with it to me a primer they're not meant to go on top of each other...
Scratch test.
You’re using these paints totally wrong that’s why they don’t look good lol