How To Decant Spray Paints For Airbrushing - Easy !!
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- Опубликовано: 2 авг 2024
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Don’t shake the can. Let it sit for a few hours. Put a small hole in the can towards the top. Let all the gas out, then tape the hole shut and shake it up. Now expand the hole and cut the top off with snips. Pour out the paint. That easy.
Did this to an Army Painter primer can, whose spray cap was broken. Worked like a charm.
Thanks for the tip I brought a can of primer I sprayed it one time & the spray nozzle stopped working and it's a full can I wanted to know how to get the paint out so I can use the rest in my airbrush👍
How long does the paint last if put in one of those air tight jars?
Am I understanding correctly, am I to puncture the can itself? Or the nozzle?
@@SergeCruso the can! When it was sit for long, paint stays on the bottom, propellant at the top. Puncture the can, and only propellant is expelled, leaving only paint inside.
in the 80s my mother worked for Krylon, long story short i painted my whole truck with gloss black Krylon paint.. lol
A brother-in-law taught me to spray into a 7” funnel cot it to your liking and let it drip in your jar works great for me and cover the top with a rag while spraying
Thanks for such a great tip. I've seen other people drill into the can to release the compressed air, but that pretty much means I have to decant the whole can all at once. I like your method of "decant-what-you-use". No drills, no fuss. Actually, no jars either if you're not inclined to decant a whole lot.
Hi, I found that a lid with a built in straw from an empty WD40 can will fit straight on some aerosol cans and you can slightly press the button to control the flow. I managed to fill some Vallejo dropper bottles using this method, you will still need to use the rag to prevent blow back though.
Dude gimme a gundam build video! lol I wanna see the Barbatos Rex Customs!
I have a Iwata Neo TR1 trigger airbrush. I love it. I haven't used an airbrush in three years and it's been so easy relearning with it.
I love the Kevin Costner style Intros of this guy
Me too 😉
Fantastic idea! I was having issues with the Molotow Chrome spray. Was successful with the 1st batch I sprayed, but had issues with the 2nd batch. Going to try this out for my 3rd batch of parts!
i never would've thought of this on my own, ill have to try it soon because i have a bunch of spray pain. Great video
Always good to see another vid on this. So many ways to achieve the same result. It is the staying clean that is hard. Tks for the vid.
What a great video to show all the thinning of the paints for someone like me that’s new to airbrushing and I love how you showed us how to take the paint from paint cans and thin it out amazing. Thank you Barbatos Rex , I watch your videos every day, and save a lot of them to have as knowledge to help me start out and I can always go back and look at them to make sure !!!!
Thank you my friend
How convenient this video was uploaded. Just decided to switch to decanting my primers and clears so they don't only last 3 models.
I 3d printed a hood with a built in funnel and button that covers the top of the can outside of the crimp ring. It works great and I don't have to get splatters of paint everywhere.
When I get a chance, I will post it to thingiverse, and put a link here to the file.
Do you have the link?
Link????
This is a great tutorial! Thx for putting the time in to make it! Awesome!
I decant spraycans once they are near empty. I first flip the can upside down and press on the nozzle to release all the gas; then I hold down the can with my foot (with a large rock between the can and my foot) and then puncture the side near the top (on the flat wall side, not the dome) with an ice pick to let any remaining gas out. Once the gas is out I use some heavy duty scissors to cut the spraycan in half and pour the remaining paint into a jar. I was using small empty Gerber bottles to pour the paint into but i guess the seal wasnt as air tight as the paint dried in a few months, so i may have to try those mason jars.
tin opener on the base of the can, should be a little safer than the scissors. ;)
Try plastic wrap under the cap. Those food jars are vacuum sealed but don't seal as good after. Try a thrift store for used mason jars. A lot cheaper than new
Great idea!!! I've been doing the exact same messy method with the cut down plastic droppers for years and hated every minute of it!
Great tutorial! Just tried this with a local brand paint today and it came out very nicely. This will sure help me save a ton of money since each 400cc can is only like 1.5$ a pop. Thanks for video, Rex.
Dang, how do you get spray paint so cheap? Over where I'm at uts 8.99 per 16 Oz can
I really enjoy your channel. Keep up the good work I’m looking into getting into the hobby of airbrushing, but I love the soap in style airbrush because since I’m disabled, it is hard for me to clean with needles. Keep up the good work and I really really enjoy your channel.
thank you so much for sharing these great tips and tricks! theyre super useful
Enjoyed this video Makes it look so much easier and cleaner than anything else I have seen or tried I had good success with stretching a glove over the jar but still struggled with the connection of the straw and the nozzle always leaks to some degree so this should be a lot easier and cleaner Thanks for sharing Truly appreciate all you do and share for the modeling hobby 👍🏽👍🏽
By the way,that rattle is kids baby teeth, sold to the paint companies by tooth fairies. Hey, would I lie?
If you flip it upside down and puncture it with a can opener, the gas comes out in a bow a minute and a 1/2. And then you open the whole thing up and drain the whole can and do anything you want so much easier.
This is super exciting, going to try it today. I have found the perfect color spray paint for a model I have built, however when I paint it with the rust oleium can it builds way too thick just like you said. I am going to give this a go and see if I can avoid burying all of my nice details. Thanks!
Great content, and I love that Grex. Same one I use as my go to
thanks for this, really helpful due to the hobby paint shortage in the online stores.
I have been doing this for 25 years. Didn't think we needed a vid on it LOL. Great job anyways.
There are always new ppl coming to the hobby bro not every one has 25 years of knowledge in the hobby so I genuinely think you should make a channel to share some of the 25 years worth of knowledge to help all the new ppl bud 👍
I like the grey primer as a finished color on certain projects.
Thanks for the decanting tip - will definitely try that one.
That's quite the Gundam gam! I've underpainted minis with zenithal metallics and overcoated with transparent paint to achieve that effect.
Cheers, I always come away from watching these videos with a smile on my face, because I’m always learning stuff.
First video I ever saw was painting spoons with acrylic paint, for beginners, to learn how to use my airbrush. If I don’t know I know you do. Always watching, that sounds creepy, sorry. Thanks for sharing
Thank you for the kind words Karl
Great minds and all that.
Been using the rag method for a long time. I was surprised when you did it. I half expecred some contraption.
The way I decant paint is to take a new wd-40 straw and cut it up in 3 equal length pieces... Then I'll pop out the spray tip from the button and insert one of the straw pieces.... Makes life a little easier when decanting.... Give it a try....😉
If I have a can with a broken nozzle or I want to transfer an entire can, I just puncture the top of the can with a drywall screw, leaving a very tiny hole and let the can out gas. I then open the top of the can using a Swiss army knife can opener and pour out the contents into whatever canister I use to store it in. Plastic bottles with dispenser nozzles work quite well. I add a few ball bearings to the storage bottle to help with mixing. No spraying involved.
I might have to paint a gunpla the way you did that one piece. Awesome content as usual.
Yep, that simple way has always seemed to be the best way, great vid!!
I was just thinking if this could be done today....scary thought, but now I have the answer, thank you
That red and preshade looks amazing!
Your videos are awesome, Thorough. I always learn a few things and I build models for a living, 28 years fulltime! Your accent is a hoot. I'm from the south so I speak with a slight southern draw. Where would you say your accent originates? What accent? Yes, I say the same thing. Thank you for your dedication.
Man I'm going to get one of those for sure I saw your video on that Badger it was a nice review. This is an informative video for sure thanks for share and yes paint is fixing to hit the roof. 🙂Thomas over at The Model Hobbyist
oh man this is going to open a whole new world of colors for me to use! Thanks for the guide Rex!
Yes but your problem is mixing various types of paint on something that arent compatible! Just stop all this bs screwing around and buy a set of Wicked Air airbrush paints and be done with it! By the time you buy all these cans and extras, its a waste of time, money, and your painted item may not hold up to well with mixing different chemical paints together.
If you are going to decant a whole can, turn can upside down press on nozzle only air comes out. When no more air put a hole in the top and pore out paint.
The way I do it now is to wrap a rag around the can and then place it under a piece of timber and lay the can flat. I then use a 1mm drill bit and drill through the timber into the bottom end of the can and expel the air out of the can. Once the air has all gone I then pour the paint into a jar and you end up with a fair bit of paint.
Very helpful and can’t wait for the next vid
Thanks for the info I have been doing something like that for a while, made more of a mess than you did, I even tried water colors in my airbrush on top of automotive paint then when it dried thoroughly I cleared over it with no problem, worked great, been good for years. gotta keep the enamels and the lacquers apart they don't play well with each other. Rustoleum seems to be all enamel , I used one Rustoleum that said on the label it was Lacquer over a known Lacquer base and ruined a job (butter milk), it was not lacquer, my fault should have tested first, live and learn. Thanks again.
This tip is very useful.
Thank you very much👍
I do the same for most projects.I’ve noticed it’s best to use only flats.Gloss clogs etc.I’ll My projects get clear anyway,cool video.
Heck Yeah!!!! That Makes Life Easier!!!! Thanks Man!!!! Your Awesome!!!!!
Thank you for all your testing. It is a great help! from Judy in Nova Scotia, Canada
Thank you for sharing, I use a lot of paint and your idea will save me a lot of money thank you :)
lovely video as always. great stuff
To get krylon foil red here in the UK is £41, crazy prices.
Love your shows my go to when need I looking for information
I just cut the cap on so there is only the nip u can push it and it pushes more paint out faster and less airmixing so it doesn't dry out
Personally I take an old nyquil cap(works great for mixing paint too). Just spray it into the bottom and it builds up then either use a pipe tre or pour it in
I always heard you need to let the decanted paint outgas for 8-10 hours. The way I was shown was to cover a jar with seran wrap and then puncture a small air hole for the outgassing pressure.
I never let to paint gas out when decanting I decant into a shot glass and the right in to the airbrush and have no problems
Yea have to try that this weekend
I just went through this yesterday for the first time. I used a rag but didn't completely cover the nozzle. Got paint all over my hands and arms. But I will do it correctly the next time. Thanks for the tip
quite timely. i've been using the army painter rattle cans to prime my minies and have not been happy with them. been considering switching to an airbrush to, if nothing else, prime stuff. with this, i'd be able to put those AP primers to use
Thats the same way I've been decanting for a few years, unfortunately some folks think it needs to be more complicated lol !
Well that was easy!!! Thank you!
Love your work man😊
I do something very similar, but with a tight sponge, when I need a little and have no empty jars, but most of the time i empty the can with a hole at the top.
You should try to remove the white orifice in the spray nozzle and replace it with a suitable size of tubing. You can decant paint very easily then with the can upright, it doesn't spray, it's more like a water hose then. I've been doing it that way for years
Yep! I like to use the WD-40 straws....
I took a piece of 1/2 styrene tube . Cut it in half . Hold the one end over the paint nozzle and other end in the jar or cup. Press down an paint runs out the end of the tube into jar. No rag , no mess of paint everywhere ect . The tube is about 12 inches long .
Keep a can of compressed air on hand I have one that’s used for cleaning out keyboards and PC fans when finished with the can take the nozzle off the can and use the compressed air to blow out the nozzle. You should be able to clip it onto the can. I keep all of my nozzles as sometimes I’ve had issues where I have gotten a can with a defected nozzle or it’s not one that’s easy to hold I just swap them out.
I made a rig from a saddle valve in the plumbing section....it works perfectly for decanting paint and it's safe and clean... I even made a video on how the make the rig and use it.
How can I get to your video?
Great video.
One thing I did notice watching your videos. If switching to 1080p quality setting I get a better idea of how strong the metallic flakes are. Some are very out of scale for kits.
most spray can paints say on the back to turn upside down to clear the internal feed tube and knosell right? Well vent the propellent from can the same way and then pop a hole in the can and pore contense in sealable container, label and ur done.
I used Rustoleum Flat White for my 1/144 Saturn V rocket and using the can was awful(you'd think I'd figure it out by now). I have the little Testors enamel bottles and used that flat white and it was easier. I have the Iwata Neo with a .35 needle/nozzle and it does ok for large areas. I may try this, but I like the small Testor's enamel paints.
Awesome tutorial! Thanks for sharing this : )
You're welcome buddy 👍
The metal flakes in the Krylon Foils and the Montana Silverchrome look to be in scale for our uses, but the Behr Dark Steal and some of the others do not. Some might not be too fussed about that, but I would be.
I put a pinhole in the can using a sharpened trim nail to remove the propellant, then make the hole larger and pour into the jar.
Great tips! 👍🏼
I had a spray can full of paint but no air, I put 2 big nail holes, on its side, one at the top and bottom. Used a condiment bottle to push air in the top hole. I used a brush ( didn't have an air brush at the time) try at your own risk!
Hold the can upside down and let all the gas out....puncture a hole in top of can and allow paint to drain out into a mason jar you buy from some discount grocery store. Losely put the lid on, don't tighten down. rig up one of the cheap harbor freight pressure paint pots at harbor freight and put a vacuum fitting.....connect to vacuum pump. Put the jar down in pot, seal pot, and pull vacuum for a few minutes, this will pull all of the atmosphere out of the jar and seal it. Tighten cap and it will be good forever. Whenever you need some, shake it up, open it, get what you need, pull vacuum again and store it. BTW, pulling the vacuum on it will degass it automatically.
A very interesting video. Just getting back into modelling . Was unable to get Mr Hobby 1500 in a jar so ended up with a spray can . Learning to airbrush with a procon Boy WA .,am as good with the airbrush as a spray can . Can I just decant & spray or do I need to thin. A big learning curve ,using Mr Hobby Aqueous on AFV's,, but do enjoy your video's .Thank you .
So easy and quick rather than the straw attached to the nozzle method. I've had trouble using Rustoleum straight out of the can being too hot and damaging the plastic, so will be interested to see if putting it through the airbrush with finer layers may stop this. Surely a lot more economical way of sourcing paints. Thanks for the great tips Robert.
Prime the plastic with Tamiya fine surface primer and it should give you a barrier between the hot paint and the plastic, I’ve used it on hard RC bodies with no issues.
@@agoodballet thanks Andy
@@allanlowe9346 no problem, also lighter coats till you reach full coverage, usually takes me 3-4 light coats until I can’t see the base color.
You could try adhesion promoter it's great for plastic and automotive abs plastics to and it stops hot paint from damaging plastic.
I never thought about doing this. I will from now on whenever possible. 👌
Do you prime all your models before painting them?
Thanks for another helpful video. I've seen modelers use a decanting sprays for years, often using this same approach just with out the rag which is messy. Sometimes the simplest method is the best.
For those that haven't heard, in May of this year(2022) Rustoleum, owners of Testors, announced they where raising the price of all Testors paints by 45%!! Not very hobbyist friendly. So the price on the item depends on the amount of back stock your suppler has. Current Retail in the 1/4 ounce (little square) bottle is $3.95, what the 1/2 ounce bottles where a couple years ago.
The intent, as reported by an "anonymous" RPM International employee, is to kill off Testors.
@@KevinJohnson-ge5xs I wouldn't be too surprised. It is a common practice in some industries, raise prices until sales drop enough to justify dropping a product line.
You need to store that mask in a sealed bag, large feeezer ziplock works. IIRC it will filter constantly that it’s exposed to the elements. The secondary foam pads need to be changed more frequently then the charcoal filters.
Excellent video. Thanks.
You are awesome! Thank you!
Love your videos. Great tip!!
Fyi, i just received My casubaris kit, it's awesome. Regards from Perú.
Hello from the US, enjoy the airbrush, it's a good one
I drill a small hole in the top of an unshaken can to let the pressure out, then make the hole bigger & pour the paint into a jar. Just be careful because the paint is like soda, there is gas dissolved in the liquid. If you shake it up it will spray everywhere.
This is how I do it, but I suggest using a tool to puncture instead of drilling. You don't really want little bits of the can getting in your paint and going through your brush.
Just Awesome and thanks for this video. Best wishes from AR Diecast.
I fish mouth cut a fat straw and super glue it to the nozzle...tape the top of jar , slice a little x in the tape and insert the straw ...works very well and no mess ....I will try the rag method though might save on straws that way..
Interesting method...I am going to try it....after you decant the paint do you have to dilute it for the air brush or is it ready to go
Thank you for your videos
Another informational video! I never even thought about this.
I tried this in the past but I didn't use a shirt or anything. This opens up a bunch of options. Thanks for this!!
Update. Rustoleum hasn't bleed into the primer with this method and the enamel gloss melts through the paint with the can, there's no such issue when decantinized through with the airbrush
Thanks for the great information
again...nice trick...I will try that
Thx,....
Another great video.
Cool tip going have to try it out. Quick question Rex did try the Plaid FX paint?
Whoa....nice I think I'm going to try this ...by the way where can I get the clear bottles to store the paint from ?
Do you have a recommendation for the ratio of Mr levelling thinner to paint as I’ve been told it’s 1 to 1 and that’s what I’ve been doing but I also don’t want to waste my products if it’s wrong thoughts? Also do you add normal thinner as Wellers Mr levelling thinner to the paint or not? Cheers
Thanks, I have some spray cans that are the accurate tone used on TV filmibg sets, but need to use an airbrush for scale dioramas of them.
Great technique!
I've found that it helps degas the decanted paint faster by dropping a small object with somewhat rough texture and/or sharp edges into the cup you've finished decanting into. This helps liberate the propellant gas dissolved into the paint faster.
Just make sure that the object you're using is inert with respect to the type of paint.
We aren't all scientists.
I'd suggest just venting the propellant from the can- inverting it and holding down the button. I tend to get some "dead" cans sometimes with paint in them and no propellant left. Then using a punch tool, I just punch the side of the can and pour out the paint. I once used an oil filter cutter and just cut off the bottom of a paint can... worked great but took more time.
I have been removing pain from spray cans for over eight years now. I can remove all the paint in about one minute without a rag. It's fast and clean. And you don't need to spray it out the nozzle.
Please share.