2004-2014 Ford F-150 & Expedition 5.4L 3v: Engine Oil Pan Gasket Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Come along as we show you how to replace the oil pan gasket on the 5.4L 3v engine found in the Ford Expedition and F-150!
These are the Parts needed to complete the job:
Ford oil pan gasket-
amzn.to/2pzS8KU
Engine Sealant-
amzn.to/2qfcK7o
Medium Strength Threadlocker-
amzn.to/2oMxu61
Oil pan tightening sequence-
i1292.photobuck...
Tighten the oil pan bolts in the sequence shown in 3 stages.
Stage 1: Tighten to 2 Nm (18 lb-in).
Stage 2: Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
Stage 3: Tighten an additional 60 degrees.
Front axle mounting bolts- 85ft lbs
Frame Crossmember Bolts- 66ft lbs
Stabilizer Bar Link nut- 59ft lbs
Stabilizer Bar bracket nuts- 41 ft lbs
Wheel Lug Nuts- 150ft lbs
My Company BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
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Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.
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These are the Parts needed to complete the job:
Ford oil pan gasket-
amzn.to/2pzS8KU
Engine Sealant-
amzn.to/2qfcK7o
Medium Strength Threadlocker-
amzn.to/2oMxu61
Oil pan tightening sequence-
i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b576/makuloco2000/N0040536_250_zpsubeccdyq.jpg
Tighten the oil pan bolts in the sequence shown in 3 stages.
Stage 1: Tighten to 2 Nm (18 lb-in).
Stage 2: Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
Stage 3: Tighten an additional 60 degrees.
Front axle mounting bolts- 85ft lbs
Frame Crossmember Bolts- 66ft lbs
Stabilizer Bar Link nut- 59ft lbs
Stabilizer Bar bracket nuts- 41 ft lbs
Wheel Lug Nuts- 150ft lbs
Do you have any experience with the 2017 3.5 motor? Just got a 2017 Raptor and the oil pan is leaking on the passenger side rear. Bunch of guys are reporting the same leak. Is this a big job for the dealer?
Had one of these come in to our dealer in about the same area. Wound up being a cracked oil pan since they're plastic on the 2017 Raptor.
FordTechMakuloco sir, how are you? I always watch your videos related to ford. I just wondering have you ever encountered a problem related to a/c that is turning on and off whenever its hot outside. I soon realized that its happening when I turned off my recirculation then the ac intermittently shutting on and off about 4sec intervals. I tried to check the ac pressures and its good. I also did alter my evap sensor. Like what you showed in your video. Even my private Mechanic cannot figured it out, i tried to bring it to the dealer and it did not show any signs of the problem. So I just dunno anymore what to do with the car. Is there any connection with the a/c and the recirculation? Maybe software problems? Thank you so much. My car is a ford escape 2014 2.5L.
Nonito Badong check relay under your hood ...little black box infront of ur brake fluid reservoir mounted to the side wall open it up and there will be a few relays in there. look in ur owners manual for ac clutch and or ac clutch diode replace both one or both is faulty u can check by wiggling them around while engine and ac are on and listen for ac clutch to engage/disengage when you wiggle it.. there about 13$ each
adam alloway but would it be possible that air recirculation has something to do with it? Coz compressor shuts on and off whenever I turned off recirculation button.
I’m not very mechanically inclined when it comes to the deeper jobs, but your videos were PERFECT! You showed every last little screw, every single part I’d need, how long I need to let stuff sit... literally every single little thing I’d need! I’m so glad folks like you exist to help less-experienced folks, like me, out!
I have watched the Cam Phaser 5.4l 3v, Timing Belt, coolant upgrade, brake fluid replacement and now this oil pan gasket replacement video. And every one of them have shown me something that i would have stumbled on or overlooked. I subscribed in 2015 and these videos have helped me with my '09 and '17 F150s. This channel has saved me HOURS of trial and error.
You are straight up awesome! I used your 4 part series and this to fix my timing chains, broken guides, oil pump and to get the ridiculous amount of junk off of my pickup tube screen. Just for a reference, I called a local dealer to ask what they charge for this job.
You saved me about $5,000! 😀
Damn, that's whatsup
@@emmanueloluga9770 Si.. pero necesitas tener experiencia de mecanico para hacer todo el trabajo de cambiar la cadena y camshafts del 5.4... pero si que si me propongo lo puedo hacer en mi LOBO 2005
Si no quieres pagar mecánico puedes hacerlo tu mismo y vas aprender por que te están cobrando ese dinero
A couple of tips for Expedition owners here (6R80) (4x4 Models)
The Transmission cooler lines and starter wiring harness will run above the Oil Pan Bolts, making it hard to reach, with out a flex-head wrench, in some places.
The Transmission Cooler Lines will also block your way partially of dropping the pan, so the lines have to be unbolted from the bracket up front and the bracket that is attached to the Transmission Bell Housing
All 3 Bolts for the Front Differential need to be removed, in order to get it to where the CV touches the Lower Control Arm. Unfortunately, the top bolt ends up running into the steering shaft when trying to slide out, so you'll have to unbolt the steering rack, so it can move and then the bolt can come sliding out. NOTE: Steering Rack Bolts are 26mm and are torqued to 200 LBS-FT.
Thanks for this tip! I was stuck wondering what I was doing wrong when my oil pan wouldn’t drop down far enough.
Thanks I just did mine. To get that pesky top bolt I was able to just disconnect the intermediate steering shaft and pop it out of the way. Gives you just enough clearance to remove that top front diff bolt.
Your comment was very helpful!
How did this man know I was here because a timing job💀.
Same here 😅 I started laughing when I started the video 😂
Well. I’m here because I’m in the middle of a timing job and have to put the oil pump on and clean out the chain guide
i’m here cause i dropped the last bolt of the oil pump into the pan and there’s no other way for me to get it out from the timing job video💀
Dude, i have to say that whole process was a major pain in the butt. Thanks for the video. Without it i don't think i could have done it.
It was more in the butt because the process of removing the oil pan was a huge Pain, putting it back was easier. He didnt displayed the removal....not good
You know exactly why I’m here! Lol! Seriously, thank you so much for making this video and all the ones related to doing a timing job on the 5.4 3 valve’s. So helpful!
Exactly why I’m here 😂😂😂
Guides broke apart. Thanks for your expertise!
I just want to thank you for this video. I picked up a stupid clean 2005 expedition King Ranch they had just had phasers timing chain guides etc. all replaced. It still ran like crap and was having issues but I bought it anyhow. I ended up replacing one of the VCT solenoid's and it started running awesome, and on our maiden voyage into town it lost oil pressure and left me stranded. After watching your video I drop the pan with help from a buddy, and it was completely full of plastic from chunks the size of my thumb or bigger, down to itty bitty flakes. The screen on the pickup tube was packed. I clean the pan out completely with gasoline and then compressed air, installed a new pick up tube and filter/screen, and she runs like a champ! God bless you and thank you for the video
Thank you to the Ford engineers that designed this nightmare.
Don’t lie, I know why you’re here 🤣
This guy is good!
FordTechMakuloco, Your videos absolutely rock. You are great at showing detail, and not skipping the hard parts in your videos like most people do. Doing this by the service manual would have been much harder. Thank you for all your tips, and making my life a little easier.
This is awesome!! Watched it 15 times today as I replaced mine. Thanks!
Dude you rock. I couldn't find this video for a 5.4 f150 anywhere thanks!!
When I did my 05 Expy 4x4, it has no skid plate. But the cross-member had been hit by something with the previous owner, tweaking it and needing a porta-power jack to press it out after a lot of cursing getting the bolts out from that extra pressure on them from the member being bent. I left the sway bar links in and only removed the two main brackets and swung the bar down. I also only removed the one bolt on the outer side of the axle, pried the axle down with a crowbar till it touched the A-arm below it. Measured that space and cut a piece of wood 2x4 to place in there so that constant prying to maintain that space was no longer needed. In the video above the axle doesn't completely touch the A-arm, and that is why the extra room is needed by totally taking out the sway bar. The axle being pressed down as far as it can allows easy slippage past the hanging sway bar. Your choice on which method to use. I'm just saying how I did it since there were no videos available back then for this series Ford with 4x4, only could find some for 2 wheel drive and they weren't the help Brian's video will be to others in the future.
Just finished tonight. I absolutely had to pull all 3 axle bolts out to drop oilpan. Removing the two only gained me an inch+ on the RH side. It physically won't clear. The CV shaft bottomed out and fully compressed on the driver's side, and didn't leave enough room. To pull the difficult one on the front left, below the steering shaft....I had to pull the steering shaft binding bolt and pop the top of the steering shaft off. That's the only way that particular 18mm will come out--and the Ford FSM confirms. Just a heads up for anybody else if you run into a similar instance. No doubt there were minor variances. Mine was on 2010 F150 4x4.
What engine was yours?
@@HETPEZB 5.4 3V
Jeff Leimer just did my 5.0. Also all 3 bolts were the must, but third one cleared around steering shaft.
I have a 2010 f150 4x4 and had to remove all 3 axle bolts as well for clearance. However did not have to remove the steering shaft to get the bolt out. If you spin the left hand wheel while its lifted off ground the shaft will spin. If you line it up right, the axle bolt has just enough room to come out. Pan and pick up full of debris..
Without your videos I would be in serious trouble in so many ways.
YOU SIR! ARE A SAVIOR! BEEN FOLLOWING AND WATCHING YOUR VIDEOS ON ALL 5.4 STUFF , THANK YOU AND GREAT JOB
Did this on my gen one Raptor with a lift kit (previous owners doing) and it was hell after a few days, many trips to different stores and new tools... but got it done.
Well, you made it look easy, but we could make it even easier. I just went through this with a older, much older ... 351M. Take two "same thread as pan bolts" hardware bolts, cut the heads off, even saw a slot for a screw driver, now you have two "studs" with screw driver slots. Pick two opposing side pan bolt holes, thread the studs in a few turns, then when you put the pan up to the block, no sliding around while trying to start bolts with a third hand. I pick two near the rear that are easier to access to remove when all the others are started. Replace those two "studs" with bolts. Really will help when lying on your back reaching up.
My '07 has 77K miles, engine is grave yard quiet at idle, but I might pull the pan next oil change just to look? This video is great.
This video is such a big help. Now it's time to change the oil pan gasket lol thank you for taking the time to show everyone how to get the JOB done
FordTechMakuloco. Thank you for leaving the dip stick in. It was easier to distinguish where it was at. Now I can complete both the gasket and replace a broken dip stick tube.
Hey Randy, how difficult was it to remove the broken dipstick tube with the oil pan off? Have any hints/pointers for me? I will be doing the two jobs at the same time also.
All your videos are in detail to get the job done. 👍👍👍👍 Thank you soo much, helps me out everytime.
Wow, perfect timing!! I'm doing the whole timing job this weekend. I've been watching all your videos over and over, taking lots of lots of notes... last night I realized there wasn't a video on how to drop the oil pan and was really wishing one existed. Today, BOOM! You the man!!
Brian !!! You need to be praised for all the hard work in sharing your knowledge / Thank you so much.. I might say the Haynes manual dosen't cover any of what you've shared.
You are a great Credit to the profession of making these vehicles last and watching your vids has gotten me up to speed in maintaining my F250 SD 2008 truck.
Brian you are a true genius this video made my repair on 07 fx4 much easier and faster this go around thank you for taking the time to make these videos keep them coming
Another great video just when I needed it. Although in my case my 2010 F150 has a leaking oil pan from rust through. Looks like the previous owner buried the truck in mud at some time and damaged the oil pan (no skid plate). A couple of points on my experience:
1. There was no way I could remove the pan without loosening the third bolt holding the front axle. you know, the one that's impossible to get at! You don't have to remove it but it has to be partially extracted to loosen the mount enough to get the axle to drop far enough.
2. You have to remove a couple of bolts to get the trans coolant lines and starter wire loom out of the way.
3. Be careful removing the pan bolts under the steering rack. You can easily gall the threads in the aluminum timing cover which can lead to cross threading on reinstall.
4. This job is a major pain on jack stands. I used big 5 ton ones raised high and it was still quite frustrating. It really needs to be done on a lift!
3. I dropped the rack and pinion a couple inches to reach those bolts.
First off, before I tackle this today, I just want to give thanks. You’re like the Ford Whisperer!
I’ve been watching your videos for literally 7 years or more and I’ve fixed a handful of things on my 2011 F150 for a fraction of the cost. Every time I have an issue you seem to have a video on it. You’re explanations and detail are terrific and you have a great camera presence. Thank you!!! @fordtechmakuloco
Doing this to my 2013 fx2 today. Yours is the only video with detail! Thank you
How did it go? I have 2012 I want to do this on. Did you have any trouble with the axle and getting the pan out? Thanks!
@@parks992 did you end up doing it ? How did it go ?
@@cheizaguirre5494 I ended up paying to get it done
@@parks992 I’m thinking of doing the same lol. How much did it end up being ? Thanks again
@@cheizaguirre5494 I went through a dealer, so probably over paid. Think it was 500ish. Probably cheaper if you go with a private mechanic. You're mostly paying for labor.
This Applies to the 4.6 for 04-08 F-150. Used this video to help guide me in Replacing my 04 F-150 STX 4x4 4.6 Oil Pan Gasket. Great in depth video!
THAT is EXACTLY why I'm here. GREAT videos.
I've been looking for some help (or to be sure of what I'm doing) for a long time now. Thank you!! Helped me ALOT!
😂😂😂 that’s exactly why I’m here😂 damn you’re good. Absolutely love your videos 👍
😂🤣I couldn't stop laughing at that part of the video its exactly what happened to me 🤤
Man, I'm working on the timing replacement watching your videos and I found a lot of plasfic tensioner parts missing and when you mentioned that at the beginning of this video was pretty funny it's like you predicted my next step lol. Amazing videos your are the best 👌.
That lasy bolt was stuck on the cross member because of pressure... it you support it in place it's usually a little easier to get them all out with having to hammer it out... great vid!
Excellent as always!!! I just placed my order for the part. Looks easier than my 98 expedition that required removing the engine mounting bolts and jacking up the engine a few inches. That part was easy compared to getting the pan off with the sump suction pipe in a channel molded to the pan. I wrestled with it for a long time, before removing the suction pipe first. Not easy without ob/gyn hands.
You do a great job on all these vids. The information you provide is so good and your explanations are always so complete and easy to follow. Thank you to the max man!
On a 2004 F-150 FX4 Standard Cab been having Oil slightly leaking at rear of Oil pan. Replaced Oil Filter Adapter, still leaking at rear of oil pan. Took off the plate on Bell housing and didn't see oil leaking from rear Main Seal. Removed Oil pan per your video instructions, found a plastic piece about half the size of the Oil Pick up Screen lodged in the Pick up, no other parts in oil pan. Had planned on doing the timing chain kit, phasers, guides, tensioners which I purchased from Gaudin Ford on Amazon for $625.00 Genuine Ford Parts. Have 24 Ford Rocker Followers 3L3Z-6564-A, the updated ones with smaller hole pointing at roller bearing from Wholesale Direct Parts on Amazon $106.00, Plus Melling M340HV oil Pump. Waiting on 24 Ford Valve Lash Adjusters 3L3Z-6500-BA to do timing job. The plastic piece I found in the Oil Pick up screen was from the Drivers Side stationary Guide 2L1Z-6K297-AA, appears to be the upper Corner where the short bolt goes through, wonder if Factory overtightened the Bolt. Truck has run great with 180,000 miles, considering a restricted Oil Pick up tube, as I do change motorcraft oil 5-20w and motorcraft FL-820S filter every 3000 miles. When oil pan came off noticed a lot of Black soot/Carbon on Crankshaft and bearings that would wipe off with finger, is this normal? One of the cross-member bolts was hard to get out because half of the bolt was worn down in thickness, lot of torque on that member. Thank you for All your Work, Sharing and Caring.
Dude you are a complete life saver, I haven't started on my 06 F150 4x4 so I don't know what if anything is in the pan but wanted to do this right and here you are with a video covering my next thought, oil pan inspection and pick up tube cleaning you rock!
whitey
Did you do the pan gasket replacement? Did it go well? Was there more to remove on the F150 4x4 than in the video of the Expedition?
Technicians always make it look so easy. lol
Thank you for these videos! Been working on my 2007 Expedition Timing Chain, etc. and this video came right in time. The axle doesn't seem to be the same as what you have. I just see very large bolts, not the 15mm.
Brian, nice to hear you go WOW on a new Milwaukee cordless impact, they are what I have at my shop as I'm a mechanic as well. 1/4", 3/8 and the big half inch drive all Fuel, all brushless all extremely powerful for their drives. They sure do make the job go a lot quicker!
Definitely makes my life much easier.
I couldn't agree more. Anything that makes our job easier is a bonus in my books.
I got the stubby 3/8
I was a big fan of the cordless tools, till I had to replace batteries.. then I remembered shop air is free and switched back to running straight air tools. For impacts anyway I still use my cordless ratchets daily. Everyone complains about having an air line but once I put swivels on all my guns it was a game changer barely even notice the hose,
Took my cordless impacts home no longer spend hundreds of dollars a year on batteries, got 150 psi on tap I wish I had never jumped on the cordless bandwagon lol
Dude love the vids and yes I’m here cause of timing components in pan and quite a few
This video is great. Im following all your videos to repair my 5.4 with broken guides. And yes I am missing parts if the guides. You should make yourself a donate button or something.
I laughed when you nailed it why I'm here. Perfect! I'm doing full timing set on 4wd and 2wd 2005 F-150's.
You always making my life easier
Omg bro. U are a genius. I was searching for this because of your other timing chain series. 😂 my guides were destroyed. So i was wondering if i need to drop pan to check for clogged
On a 2007 Ford Exhibition, I followed your video (which is great of course) but had an issue with the just not quite eneough clearance to remove the oil pan. I ended up loosening the two motor mount bolts on the passenger side. Then using a block of wood and floor jack was able to raise the motor up about another inch and the pan came right off. Whew!
Looks doable but time consuming. I just noticed this leak on my 2007 and will do this job at some point over the next few months. Great video and thank you.
It was like he was staring straight into my soul at the start of the video! Yup im here because of broken guides ;-)
Ty for holding my hand. Idk y I don’t understand the other guys🤣🤷♂️
Some info to add. On my 2010 F150 5.4, I definitely needed to remove all three bolts to the axle housing. The baffles in my oil pan are different and higher up, not allowing the pickup tube to clear unless the axle housing was about an inch lower. So, 09 and 10 might have different pan baffles requiring you to lower axle housing further. Awesome videos!
Did you have a problem with the top axle bolt hitting the intermediate coupler on the steering shaft upon removal ?
@@zachcashour1752 Top axle bolt on drivers or passenger side? Drivers side I did not remove bolt all the way, but just enough to have assembly loosen up and drop the extra inch or so. Passenger side upper bolt came out all the way without a problem. Bear in mind, I am old and I forget more than I remember! Good luck!
@@zachcashour1752 Also, It was still a difficult time getting the pan baffles to clear pickup tube. I cheated when I installed the pan, I bent down the ends of the baffles that stick up just a bit to help me clear when fitting back up. You will see what I mean when you get the pan off.
@@donE37100 I tried today but couldn’t get the axle to drop down low enough, probably less than an inch, I ended up giving up and re assembling everything
Have both bolts out on my 07 and the pan still won’t clear, think I might need to take the 3rd bolt out to drop it down some more
You are friggin' AWESOME, sir! You're dead on right about what lead me to this video, too. I'm doing your 4 part series and it is a masterpiece! God bless you for taking the time and detail on these videos.
did you find remains of your guides in there or anything?
@@adrew1963 I found my guides broken apart and plugging up the oil pickup tube. Unfortunately, a week after I got the truck going again, the new timing chains that I put on their snap. Now the engine is locked up.
@@Metalbass1979 aww man sorry to hear that sucks badare you going to dig into it or what
@@adrew1963 I finally gave up and have a friend who is a certified mechanic pulling it back apart and seeing if it is salvageable. I thought about telling Duralast that their timing chains broke and killed it and seeing if they'd do something about it.
@@Metalbass1979 OK SO YOU STILL MAY BE ABLE TO GO THAT ROUTE sorry caps hope for the best and good luck let me know how it turns out
Super glad I have a 2 wheel drive for once! Your videos are amazing. Saved me thousands in mechanic fees so far. Thank you so much
Did it work for your 2 wheel drive
@@fernandocid1200 about to do this on my two-wheel drive 2007 F-150 today thanks to this video.
@@salvati0n0rdamnati0n how'd it go on your 2wd? I'm about to do it
@@Boomer21b went good. 2 bolts on oil pan hard to get. Other than that was no problems
Did you have to lift the Motor up or anything?
I also removed two large bolts and moved rack and pinion to more easily get to back 4 pan bolts . seemed to help. it only moved about 2 inches but was just enough.
Lol... That is EXACTLY why I am here... No leaks but changing it anyways since its off... PAN WAS DISGUSTING.!! I changed pump and pick up screen. THANKS
For those with a tenth edition mine being a 2001 f150 4.6L V8 SOHC 4x4. Similar but, unbolted the rear cross member, 4 bolts, I left the cross member connected to the rear of the differential. I loosened the front differential bolt but did not pull it.
*****placed a jack under the front differential to keep it from falling on me or breaking anything ***** Unbolted the passenger side axle mount. Lowered the jack enough for the pan to clear. Done deal, also it’s easier to access the two 8mm bolts to the pick up tube when the pan is off. Furthermore would like to thank FordTechMakuloco for brining me this far.
I wish i should've seen this sooner. If you would've done the oil filter housing gasket. That would've been the cherry on top
I also removed 2 large bolts to rack and pinion to gain easier access to back 4 pan bolts . it only moved an inch or two but was just enough .
On 5.0 (2013) I learned that all 3 bolts needs to be removed to drop the axle low enough to barely take the pan off.
How did you get that top bolt off above the front diff? I can't get ANYTHING in there! Stuck right now.
@@tannerpetrie , I don’t recall particular problems with any of the bolts. Either the swivel extension or regular extension or combination of those.
@@HETPEZB Thanks for replying so quick! I think I need a swivelA
Always clean the pick up!! I did mine last nite after doing timing and melling pump, I wish I could upload a pic it was over 60% plugged.
Here for the oil pan removal and gasket replacement.
I have a 2004 Ford 150 I did all timing work and oil pan with the help of your videos. Very helpful.
Mr problem is with oil pan gasket second one on an it still keeps leaking from right from corner. Any info what thanks Martin. And I did use silicone on 4 corners.
Right on the money!
Please make a video of how you organize your work space.
Hey thank you for taking the time to make these videos!
Thank you for all of your videos. What I didn't see in this one, was how to get the pan bolts above the steering rack on a 2007. I had already removed the sway, and dropped the front axle, but still can't get the front pan bolts above the rack
I love that you guys use Milwaukee tools I swear by the impacts and the ratchets as well
So yes I won't lie, I am doing the Timing on my 2005 F-150, and I did LMAO when you mentioned that! LOL.
However I watched quite a few of your videos and happened to see the one where you fixed a timing job that someone really hacked up prior. That video is where you mentioned that you should check the pan to make sure the pickup is clean and no debris is in it.
I just bought a 2005 F-150 Lariat 4x4 that was dieseling, I figured it was the timing chain and fixable, as I'm going through these steps to remove all the wires I'm finding tel-tale signs someone else was in there prior. I think someone else tried this with some cheap parts? I guess we will see?
BTW if you want to see how your info helps other people check out my RUclips channel where I'm videoing all this, and how I'm utilizing your video for help, and to see if a non mechanic can actually pull this all off...lol. Its Average Joe 4X4, the video should be completed shortly.
Anyways, GREAT VIDEOS! Really detailed. and I wouldn't try this without these as a resource, I'm not a mechanic thats for sure...LOL. Thanks
Had to do this on my 01’ Z71 pickup which was caked in rust/dirt/oil/coolant. I have an 06 F150 2wd now and am going to be changing mine here soon. Will be a lot easier too since it’s got no front dif
Instead of dropping front axle how about removing two motor mount to frame bolts jack up trans close edge front of trans lift motor up from there works out good!
To anyone stuck at the part where the axle is suppose to drop but doesn't, I have a 2007 navigator L 4x4 and I was able to get just a touch of clearance AFTER heating the bolt Brian says is too hard get out, and breaking torque on it till about an inch sticks out. The whole front diff will drop ever so slightly. U need to remove the other two bolts all the way. Mine were 18mm...
hey bud, how did you remove the oil pan? Mine has 3 or 4 bolts that seem impossible to get to. I have a fully loaded 2005 navigator. I have several other metal lines all around mine and a metal bracket blocking me.
Excellent video.Quick question though,how do you know for sure if the pan gasket is leaking or if the rear main seal is bad and leaking.Is there a way to tell for sure where the leak is coming from?
I just did this on engine w/o oil pressure and pickup tube was completely blocked with sludge. Thx for the vid.
Cross member bolts. You can use the impact socket onto the nut and use the socket as an impact punch and use the hammer on the socket instead of hammering straight on the nut.
nope....I just KNOW there's garbage down in the pan after both chain guides had no piece larger than 2". This is a MUST DO if you're doing a timing job and had the guides come apart. Got the timing parts and M360Hv pump in already and realized there has to be parts of those guides in the pan. It'd be a shame to have done all that work and spent all the money on Ford parts just to burn it all up due to a clogged up oil pickup tube. Thanks for the videos man....'wish I knew your name.
On my 06 F150 xlt 2wd supercrew I had to lower the rack and pinion to remove the two front inside pan bolts. Noticed you didn’t have to. On the rack and pinion mounts, I removed the 2- 15/16” downward facing nuts, then screwed them back on so that 3-4 threads were holding, then undid the 2 horizontal bolts/ nuts and the R&P dropped a couple inches (held up by the 15/16” nuts) and I was able to reach those inside oil pan bolts easier.
Thanks soo much for the tip about the steering rack. I couldn't get my universals to work it like it was. Will try it tomorrow.
the best comment, has to be pinned to the top
Good guess why I am watching, but not quite right. Found the O-Ring for the oil pick up tube in the box right after I put new oil in and filter on after full timing job. Very glad I have 2 wheel drive right now, just a cross member to remove.
I had plenty of room. I took off the 4 main sway bar bolts and then 1 axle bolt. I had to pry the axle down, with a crow bar and then jam a piece of wood in, until it relaxed. it was actually really easy because this guy told me all the bolts are 15mm exceot for the 18mm that you dont need to take off...
You do amazing work! Currently using your 4-part series to replace timing kit. Found 2 guides and 2 hydraulic tensioners broken, I’m sure oil pan/pickup is full of plastic. TIMING COVER IS CURRENTLY OFF. Question: better to replace timing cover now, use RTV at block/cover/oil pan joint, then do oil pan with more RTV at same joint later? Or should I remove oil pan now and replace it dry, then use RTV in that corner before replacing timing cover?
remove the oil pan, then install the front cover and torque it down with sealant at the upper joints but leave the pan to cover sealant dry. Clean and install new gasket to the pan then apply sealant at the 4 joints as shown in this video, torque to spec.
FordTechMakuloco ahh that makes sense. Thank you.
Just did this on my 2010 Expedition to clean out pan after complete timming job. Had to remove top bolt on front diff and unbolt trans lines from engine, still barely had room to get it out. Suspect my engine is sitting just a little lower.
This is a great video with lots of details. I have a 2012 5L. Crawled under and it looks just like the arrangement in your video. Hoping the procedure is the same. Big Thank You for this.
Update. Tried removing the oil pan but could not get it down. Unbolted the right side os the front axle and lowered it but still not enough clearance. Looks like I will have to drop the front axle to get enough clearance. Very difficult to access the bolt on the left side.
Lou Vaillancourt I have a 2011 5.0L 4x4. I know it’s been awhile but how did it end up going? I assume ours is very similar. Did it ever end up coming out? What was needed to pull it off?
I also have a 2012 FX4 5.0. What was the end result ? I hope to do this myself too.
@@FunThingsInJacksonville I have a 2011 f150 with the electric power steering. Mine oil pan is leaking as well. How did your turn out.
@@stevenpeterman I got it done. I could not get my oil pan out by just lowering just one side of the front axle though. I had to lower the entire front axle. I then used a floor jack to raise it back into place. Not fun. I also discovered that the gasket that most of the auto parts stores give you is the wrong gasket. I tried 3 of the major chains. I did not realize this until after I had lowered the oil pan. Luckily I had another vehicle I could use to return it. I eventually got the correct gasket from a dealer. It's a pretty big job to do in your driveway. All said and done I have no more oil leaks. Good luck to you.
Fordtechmakuloco (hope i spelt it right) is the man. Thanks for all the great videos :)
Thanks!!
You are my ford goat 🐐 working on my 4.6L knocking so hard in bottom of oil pan sounds like a diesel. Or a piston fell down!!!
@Smoking With 98 Slim Hi there! yes it was actually my flywheel that was broken, the center part was still bolted to the engine while the outer mass of it was completely sheared off. It still started which was scary to think. aAnew flywheel can cost you $50.00 to $500.00 just for the part alone based on the quality of coarse.
However the trany has to come down. If your Pulling the Trany i was have it serviced completely before putting it back up...
wysetech2000 -- Aloha's bud. I just had to "like" your comment. Right-on!
I am 62, and sometimes I feel older than dirt. I'm retired and like many others like you and I support Brian's channel and what he does for people he doesn't know or ever gets to meet. I too been around just about every mechanical monster 45 years.
Us old guys learned a long time ago that when some mouths are moving - they just ain't listening and learning really helpful information.
Perhaps we should donate a few of our old brain cells and maybe even a can or two of patient tolerance to Jay K - we wouldn't want anyone to starve come Winter.
By the way -- some (a lot) of us old farts are still waiting for some of those video's from the real Lone Ranger ;)
Thanks!
This procedure is also an easy way to pop out a broken dipstick tube from below.
Another incredible video! You have saved me thousands for repairs I have performed myself! What would be different on an F250 with. the 5.4 3V as I believe my pan gasket is leaking from the passenger rear (by the transmission bell housing). Flywheel and inspection cover are dry so I don't think the rear main seal is leaking. Thank you again!
So glad I got rid of my 5.4 3v at 80k miles. I had no idea how junky and problematic this engine was for most people.
I appreciate you making a helpfull vidoe for some. Unfortunately your video does not work for a 2010 F-150 as your video title indicates.
The f 150 control arms are different so the 18 mm off set wrench is useless. I only see two bolts for the axle and the one you are suppose to remove is 18 mm not 15 mm. The biggest issue is that with the F150 you have transmission lines, wireing, and the power steering rack in the way of oil pan bolts. So this vidoe was not heplfull. I would suggest to you to actually do a job on a F150 (mine is a 2010). If you end up reading my comment maybe you can provide guidance for me and other F 150 owners.
Im so glad I don't have to deal with rust
nice video and very good explanation thanks.
Ugh you make those cross member bolts look easy. I still can't get mine off, I have half inch impact on them and they just won't budge!!!!!
pen oil and then heat from a torch are you using a quality impact?
Great video, very thorough.
Is this procedure to use for the F150 4.6L as well?
We had to unexpectedly do this procedure on a 2010 F-150. Unfortunately, it didn't work for us because the drive axle wouldn't drop as far as in the video. In that year, the bolts were 18mm & 21mm and when taken out, the axle would drop about half as far as the video, and you could hear the pumpkin hitting something that I couldn't see. So we could get the pan down far enough to fish out the pickup tube bolt we dropped, but not far enough to change the gasket. I'm hoping that the gasket is durable enough to seal back up, but we'll find out tonight...
Oh dang. Did it work ? I have a 2012 5.0 FX4...how to change that gasket ?!?
Good video you should link it to your four-part series on timing component replacement
Sorry, but you’re wrong. I don’t even own a F-150 or
Expedition. I’m watching because I enjoy your videos that much. Keep making
videos and I’ll keep watching, regardless of the content.
Very helpful , Thank You !!
Sonnnna of bitch ! Your right ! That’s why I’m here. Dude you are the f-ing Mack! Just in case no one has mentioned that to you in a while... I’ve been watching for about two years thanks brother !
Also a good time to replace the sway bar links and sway bar bushings.