Good one Mucker. A lot of people are allergic to grease guns. By running your finger over the end of a grease nipple you can also see which way it is facing, that allows you to put the coupler on straight. Greasing a machine also is a good opportunity to run your eye over everything. It is amazing what you can pick up when you have the grease gun in your hand. How much grease to give something is a trick too. We bought a tractor once that had a greasable thrust bearing in the clutch. When I had to put a new clutch in it because it had never been adjusted I found the bell housing was half full of grease. See a grease nipple and give it 20 pumps is not always the clue. Try explaining that one to a neanderthal. Jeff
My Favorite subject!!!!! different greases for different applications for me I like to use different greases for the same machine.on my balers I use three types of grease in the auto greaser I use a quality lithium wheel bearing grease because if I use the moly (clay base) they will plug the lines.on the drive lines I use a heavy duty coupler grease (Moble XTC) its almost a super thick oil. on the pins and bushings is where I use the moly grease. I used to use sig 3000 anti pound out grease on the drivelines but that's just lithium grease with a stiction agent added. that's good for your pins on the boom of that machine.
oh and if you plug a line there is usually a grease Zerk on the main divider block and that will put a bunch more pressure through the lines and help clear out the line. the best way to prevent a blocked line on the auto system is to run it when the machine in not running about 30 minutes. that will allow you to inspect the bearings and bushings that are fed by this unit. they will show a small amount or dark grease at the seals. sent go home and forget its on it will make a fuckall mess out of the unit its greasing.
I bought a sealey grease gun and couldn't get round half the machine before the battery died. Quickly ditched that and bought a milwaukee. I go through 2 tubes of grease with only using half the battery. Serious bits of kit. Worth every penny. Such a time saver. Only problem i have is sometimes not getting the right angle and it coming out the nipple. Ive seen some lock on ends for the grease gun but not sure if they are a gimic
Great to see you again Lord Muck,must admit its taken a while to respond due to me getting flustered over the word nipples. Another great vid,thanks very much best wishes to you,your team and most of all your lovely Collie dogs. Thanks for the entertainment . Best wishes Muckers👍
Only you can make a video about greasing a machine enjoyable to watch mucker 👌 Spot on buddy. Mundane task but an absolute necessity, same with track tension and clearing top rollers/iders before a hard freeze overnight 👌
The lock n lube quick couplers are awesome in my opinion. I bought one and it comes with a rebuild kit in the package. I Have had it for several years and never had to rebuild it. It’s good quality stuff.
Another great video Mucker thanks for sharing, I didn't realise that the bushes had a spiral for the grease to travel down. And when it comes to any work and the basics it is surprising how many people forget. It maybe basic so do it.
Great vid! As for my two cents…. I grease at noon every day, two reasons #1 grease and machine has time to warm up (of course summertime it doesn’t matter) #2 sometimes quitting time comes late, you are tired, gates on site will be locked… Next I’d have to say that not all grease is equal, I use 3% moly only. I have seen bushings last as much as 2000 hours longer with the simple use of 3% moly grease. Always carry a small assortment of spare zerks aka nipples, and if you ever hear a squeaky part, stop work and grease it. The big problem with this type of maintenance is it is seen as optional, it is not, It’s mandatory, a good daily inspection of the machine is not optional. On a backhoe I don’t always grease the loader and backhoe for example, I grease what got the most use. Front axle and driveline fittings are more of a weekly/ monthly schedule. Some days the loader gets the bulk of work, some the backhoe, and of course there are days when the whole machine needs grease, some fittings that are small get 1 pump, larger ones get 3-5, experience and some observations will help with the amounts and intervals each part needs. Do well!
Cracking video thanks for sharing Not a digger but our scammell explorer needs it's transmission props greased every 50 mile and that's what REME say in the manual as some of the prop yolks dry out quickly we tend to use good quality high temperature grease from smith and Alan's from Darlington for the transmission then we use cheaper general purpose grease for all the rest on the suspension ,steering , winch and crane We tried counting all the grease points once but give up after 200 😂 Some old boys with scammells told us not to use grease on the axle and suspension points but use old gear oil instead this seems to help if you've got a blocked one but its a proper messy job 🤠
It's not just about lubrication, greasing also pushes out dirt and moisture. As a retired aircraft engineer seeing people lubricate equipment gives me a warm feeling. One of our guys retired and got a part time job at the local plant hire firm cleaning and greasing returned equipment.
Yea ! Always use good quality grease and oil, It keeps things working . I use an air greaser on my machine after a few hours work. Also carry a hand pump greaser when out away from my workshop. Excellent video , Explains things well to people who are new to this sort of work. All the best .
Excellent video Lord Muck :) what my late Father taught was use high pentriotion on fluid on grease with 2 squirts on grease tip , grease to is High Temperatures or Quality Heavy Equipment Tractor and Truck Moly grease type pump in 4 pumps worth each too! If grease tip don't take take tip and use pentriotion and clean up too! Then install back on try again too and gun do hand grip ones! Also hold tip fitting on and hand pump also do grease every month or on oil change time ! If heavy duty equipment weekly best bet and helps lots!
Great video done correctly , so many people even if they bother to grease, do it WRONG !!!😢 So important to clean all debris from around grease nipple & wipe clean grease nipples with a rag, also keeping the grease gun end wiped clean is important, saves dirt & crud from entering grease lines 😊😊👍👍I use MOBIL XHP 222 lithium based grease, it’s a more sticky grease,excellent on hot temperatures, doesn’t just melt out & run away.That was a great down to earth video, hopefully inspired other people in the art of maintenance 😊😊😊👍👍👍
The best thing I ever bought was a Lock-n-Lube . Every machine has 1 or 2 fittings that you cant reach or you have to hold the tip on the zerk at an angle . That cures it.🍻
My handy tip is to buy a selection of new grease nipples and keep them in the machine. That way you can instantly replace any rusted/blocked/damaged ones and keep greasing. The blocked/damaged ones always get ignored until the point that they run bone dry. You can usually tell a blocked one by the half tube of grease built up around it that never actually went in.
Good video Mucker, the single biggest bit of advice I give boys as a plant trainer is check your machines lubrication chart, espeically if its a new machine. I have seen new machine over greased as you touched on pushing the seals out, then you will become greasing man every day, a lot of new machines will tell you grease the bucket evrey 40/50hrs rest of the machine might be 150/200hrs but always worth checking every manufacturer may be different.
Lovely little bit of kit that Milwaukee grease gun 😁 I had to get myself one too a few months back, it saves so much time & trouble. Highly recommend to any other muckers second guessing whether or not to get one !
👍👍👍right on feller... you're indeed spot on... Years ago bought a used excavator with an auto lube system,.not gonna say the brand,but couldn't get it function properly, don't know if it ever did...but not everything had been getting sufficient lube...pins and bushings got worn as a result.. removed the system and greased with battery gun ever since... down the road i learned that particular lube system had issues on any machine they were installed... anyway,ill never buy a machine with an auto lube..im sure some systems are better than others...idk ..but anyway, thanks for another video 👍👍👊🍻🤘
Same as the boys that run steam engines, you can't skimp on the basics when it comes to lubrication unless you want very big repair costs further up the line! Great Video.
Rotek swing bearing and swing gear and pinion . Bucket hinge pin and dipper stick high wear areas and expensive. I grease every time i use machine. Planetary track drive unit oil rarely checked changed. And swing motor planetary gearbox oil as well. Dont pressure wash swing bearing area or pins bushings pushes sand dirt into grease . If you don't grease alot zerk fittings clog and channel so no gease can get in bushing pins . Lincoln makes a impact tool to clear clogged zerk fitting s. Nice channel Thank you. Cheers
I've learnt, the hard way to ALWAYS carry a new tube of grease the correct socket and driver for the track tension and a side lever grease gun. At base I use an air powered gun, and when not so close to an air line, I use a pistol grip grease gun. Also carry shims(Washers) so when it starts to shake, you can tighten that joint up. Always grease every day its working. I concur with carrying grease nipples in the shop.
Use a marine grade grease and a trigger pull gun is my preference. I used to drive a 20T Hyundai on a water borne barge, tricky work when you have water under you. I had the use of a 20T Hitachi which I skidded a track off when the grease nipple failed on the track tensioner. I went to work and put it back together but used a marine grade grease.. Once got the us of a 3T little Tackeuchi from a neibour and the main ram groaned like an old man, so I cleaned it with acetone and replaced the nipple and regrease it, noise gone. Always do your engine checks, looking for oil levels but also loose belts, bolts and all your ancillarys. Probably some spelling mistakes.
I operated for a company that the rule was one pump on every fitting every day. A wise old mechanic once told me “the cheapest thing you can buy is oil and grease “ Just happened to be my father.
For more info from my occupation which is running older farm equipment a lot of the equipment has no auto lube systems for drive chains. My round baler is a lot of chains getting covered in dirt and dust so lube often. Have used all different kinds of lube over the years but seems to be cheaper to just use what New Holland recommends to use 30w oil. Also when about to use the old New Holland 1915 or 1900 forager expect to use about a full tube of grease to lube the machine.
on my grandads old kobelco when we use it on long days we the main pins every second day the rest about once a week the pins have lasted 36 years! and shes still a great old digger and we use a hand gun
Great video. Back in the day when i was in the seat full time I'd grease first thing whilst she warms up. Only takes 10mins when you keep on top of it. I used to hate being a relief operator on someones elses machine or one thats been on self drive - that could take an hour. I still swear by my manual Cat grease gun. You can feel when things were last greased!
I like your blogs greasing up every day is a good thing to do I am not a operator of these type of machines but enjoy watching your blogs from alison sadler England
Always carried a grease gun in my tractor and when I got in to demolition it was a gun and a case of grease easier than explaining why it broke to the boss
Working with agriculture n earthmoving machinery I take pride in greasing n keep it clean. 1. Machinery manual or sometimes make up one counting grease nipples, recording nipples size. 2. Tools i am fortunate to have 3 grease guns but basic one with long extended hose is good start Battery, flex hose n long straight gun 3. I made box which contains Paper towel roll, i hate rags Box of allsorts of nipples Grease fitting unblocker Grease couples Cleaning tools like screw piece, pick, wire, brush Nipple guage as i come across different types of nipples. Anyone who just started in agriculture or plant machinery n your job is grease everything, if cant get grease into the fitting, don't put dob of grease on end of fitting n leave it. ASK someone with experience to find solution to the problem as its not just costly issue but safety issue especially if wheel comes off on main road at fair speed. As for type of grease use what is required, i dont swap different grease around as some greases have different tolerance n adds like powders.
I carry a short length of fence wire and rag to clean around the grease fittings especially around the bucket, coupler and knuckle. 1x pump of grease every 8 hours religiously (depending on age of machine I may add more). I grease at the end of the day when the pins are warm and therefore grease in location is already warm and easy apply extra grease. Dry grease can block fittings hence while the machine is warm I apply. Allows the operator to start a fresh pre-start first thing which usually coincides with trucks being loaded etc. I like to knock off early to grease the machine for the next day.
i run flatbed trucks and haul equipment and for slow moving pins and bushings a grease high in molybdenum and graphite works well. on high speed u joints and in dusty conditions i push a bit of great out of each hex with a lithium complex. Grease needles work well too for a blocked fitting or narrow access point.
I just put my hedge cutter on yesterday, and today I was greasing it, in general it ok but there always grease point what will not take grease. Sadly it has to sit outside as well and is a big heavy machine but a good machine.
For general use, pumping out track adjusters and the like, a decent Lithium EP2 grease is plenty. For high wear applications - dipper end pins and bushes, kingposts, boom/dipper joint - we tend to think it is worth paying the extra for Lithium Complex EP2 grease. It was a higher temperate range and also better resistance to washout.
I’ve put a few hours on diggers but mostly hire ones for a day or 2. I always been told to leave the extra on the grease nipples when you’ve put grease in, keeps water and muck out of the nipple end and ball bearing in it 🤷♂
Have a Milwaukee Battery grease gun with G coupler . On the main pins i will give a few pumps when the boom is down , lift the boom to top and give a few pumps , means you get grease right around the pins .
Good show sir I work as a mechanic for a garage company in the US. Boy oh boy the way new machines die in the wost ways in a refuse landfill 😢 everything that has to go up there. on and in everything that gets tossed out
Good video your Lordship. Some say that the best way is to get a hire machine, that way all the maintenace, greasing and daily checks are done for you... 😅🙃 At the farm we use two grease guns; one is a pistol grip with a flexi pipe, and the other is a lever type with a solid pipe. Just so if you can't get onto a nipple with one you can with the other, particually if they're in a hard to reach place, or a bit old/worn.
Am I right in thinking that the dry hard grease is a sign of lack of regular greasing in the past? I don't have experience of this type of procedure so it's a genuine question Nice video LM
I’m not big on the auto lube stuff. On more than one occasion I’ve caught a problem early because I’ve seen it while going round doing the daily grease. Other thing I’ve found a couple times now normally on a cultivator or rolls rather than the digger, is that a fracture will start from where the hole for the grease nipple is. Get a decent battery grease gun, it doesn’t feel such a chore to do, but they can be a bit expensive.
Bit like the contractors john deere 7400 I'm servicing at mo 🙄😬🙄, so many grease points but not a drop to see, it's ruined, got the rear steering shaft stripped out this morning as it's screwed on the bush ... sorry, no bush...
They actually make a tool or “stuck” grease zircs that don’t take more grease and it works by having a piston you fill with oil that locks on the zirc and hit it with a hammer and force the oil in and frees up the little ball
Always prefer a grease gun myself instead of auto lube so you can visually see the grease coming out around the bushings and pin, as a regular driver of machines between 0.8 and 3 ton i also make habit myself and tell young lads just starting out on machines to visually check any welds and the actual boom and dipper for any cracks while greasing, especially if its an older machine or been used on a tough application. Equally check the teeth on the bucket while your greasing the bucket pins, catching a problem early is always better than the problem catching you out.
I just use what the manufacturer recommends for grease and oil and a battery operated grease gun makes it so much easier so it will more likely get used.
Good Video Mucker you can't place enough importance on proper lubrication of equipment and the older the piece is the more important it is and replacing pins and bushings is neither Fun or cheap
Bit of wire brush poke down nipple removed or blow tourch heat and burn 🔥 off old grease......... try leave with rams in so it protects pitting on the rods I like my manual grease gun simple less to go wrong..... old scats dapper grease gun terrible got a different flex pipe from a local tool shop better locking tip on nipple and easy to bleed 😉 at beginning
Mucker great video very interesting and informative I've never been on any plant machinery just find it fascinating to watch. Do they fit any kind of warning lights or systems to these machines to warn the operator that the joints need lubrication? Sorry to anyone if that sounds daft ❤️
Didnt OLF have a issue on his big baler where the tube carrying the grease from the auto lube to the crank was broken and went unnoticed and he then had to do major surgery to replace parts..
We use Fuchs renolit Mo2 on digger/loader pins , love my Screw on cartridge grease gun for EP2/ blue high temp , but the Mo2 comes in the old cartridges so it's a trusty old JCB grease gun for that. Its a shame as the screw on cartridges are bigger to start in all
New home operator here (Cat 301.7). So I Have a Ryobi sprayer that you can attach A 2 liter of water too. It has this turbo head swirls around in a circle. Takes about two minutes and 3/4 of the water to spray off all the fittings. Doesn’t seem like Water can go in because it really sprays around it more than in it. I do it at the end of every day so it’s clean and dry in the morning and ready to be greased. i’ve never heard of anyone doing this, so I’m hoping it’s not a bad idea. I would guess that if water is getting in it can’t be more than a drop. Is this a good idea or a bad idea
I can remember the days 1965 class mercury combine 8foot 6 cut Perkins p4 on the side at least 50 grease nipples sum twice a day and a 1 gallon castrol pressure gun. You were covered in crap before you started and to lithargic at night to do it. Onley 200 acres to do in a season.
The biggest problem with today's operators is that it's not there machine and they are lazy and don't give a fuck But with that been said there are some that do and they take very good care of that machine In western Australia they have a summer grease and a winter grease get them mix around and it can cause all kinds of trouble Keep up the good work mucker 👍
nice one I learnt so much I have a small question what is the difference between the black and red Greece? what is your opinion and what is the best one.
No notification from Loob Tube 🤬🤬 routine lubrication made a lot simpler if fortunate enough to get a machine from new and carry out daily maintenance which doesn't take so much time, and also just prefer a manual grease with a quality end on it 👌
No, you're right. Grease is cheaper than metal work and it's a good idea to do that and keep it going. Although a lot of people, don't they just look at it? I'll just get a new one that's up to them. They must like spending their money.
Oil & Grease is always costs less than pins, bushings, line boring and mechanic`s labor charges. Better machine operators know to check grease points, fluids & oils before the start of each machine use. We know not everyone is one of those "better operators".
Good one Mucker. A lot of people are allergic to grease guns. By running your finger over the end of a grease nipple you can also see which way it is facing, that allows you to put the coupler on straight. Greasing a machine also is a good opportunity to run your eye over everything. It is amazing what you can pick up when you have the grease gun in your hand. How much grease to give something is a trick too. We bought a tractor once that had a greasable thrust bearing in the clutch. When I had to put a new clutch in it because it had never been adjusted I found the bell housing was half full of grease. See a grease nipple and give it 20 pumps is not always the clue. Try explaining that one to a neanderthal. Jeff
Simple, but absolutely essential!
Bit of grease doesn't cost the world but saves you a lot in the long run.
Nice one M'lod 👌
Cheers, Mike
My best tip, if you don't regularly grease your machine, there's always Olly Snowball who will do your repairs on bushes and pins
Excellent video Mucker on a bit of greasing. We are never to old learn different ways of doing maintenance. Well done Mucker 👍 🔧 🚜
Same as changing engine oil really oil is inexpensive compared to a rebuild good video 👍
My Favorite subject!!!!! different greases for different applications for me I like to use different greases for the same machine.on my balers I use three types of grease in the auto greaser I use a quality lithium wheel bearing grease because if I use the moly (clay base) they will plug the lines.on the drive lines I use a heavy duty coupler grease (Moble XTC) its almost a super thick oil. on the pins and bushings is where I use the moly grease. I used to use sig 3000 anti pound out grease on the drivelines but that's just lithium grease with a stiction agent added. that's good for your pins on the boom of that machine.
oh and if you plug a line there is usually a grease Zerk on the main divider block and that will put a bunch more pressure through the lines and help clear out the line. the best way to prevent a blocked line on the auto system is to run it when the machine in not running about 30 minutes. that will allow you to inspect the bearings and bushings that are fed by this unit. they will show a small amount or dark grease at the seals. sent go home and forget its on it will make a fuckall mess out of the unit its greasing.
I bought a sealey grease gun and couldn't get round half the machine before the battery died. Quickly ditched that and bought a milwaukee. I go through 2 tubes of grease with only using half the battery. Serious bits of kit. Worth every penny. Such a time saver. Only problem i have is sometimes not getting the right angle and it coming out the nipple. Ive seen some lock on ends for the grease gun but not sure if they are a gimic
Great to see you again Lord Muck,must admit its taken a while to respond due to me getting flustered over the word nipples. Another great vid,thanks very much best wishes to you,your team and most of all your lovely Collie dogs. Thanks for the entertainment . Best wishes Muckers👍
Years ago people not greasing joints kept me in a very good living...!
ATB
Dave
Only you can make a video about greasing a machine enjoyable to watch mucker 👌 Spot on buddy.
Mundane task but an absolute necessity, same with track tension and clearing top rollers/iders before a hard freeze overnight 👌
Glad you enjoyed it 👍
The lock n lube quick couplers are awesome in my opinion. I bought one and it comes with a rebuild kit in the package. I Have had it for several years and never had to rebuild it. It’s good quality stuff.
🎵 GREASE is the word....🎵 😊 Excellent points! 🚜
Another great video Mucker thanks for sharing, I didn't realise that the bushes had a spiral for the grease to travel down. And when it comes to any work and the basics it is surprising how many people forget. It maybe basic so do it.
Great vid! As for my two cents…. I grease at noon every day, two reasons #1 grease and machine has time to warm up (of course summertime it doesn’t matter) #2 sometimes quitting time comes late, you are tired, gates on site will be locked…
Next I’d have to say that not all grease is equal, I use 3% moly only. I have seen bushings last as much as 2000 hours longer with the simple use of 3% moly grease. Always carry a small assortment of spare zerks aka nipples, and if you ever hear a squeaky part, stop work and grease it. The big problem with this type of maintenance is it is seen as optional, it is not, It’s mandatory, a good daily inspection of the machine is not optional. On a backhoe I don’t always grease the loader and backhoe for example, I grease what got the most use. Front axle and driveline fittings are more of a weekly/ monthly schedule. Some days the loader gets the bulk of work, some the backhoe, and of course there are days when the whole machine needs grease, some fittings that are small get 1 pump, larger ones get 3-5, experience and some observations will help with the amounts and intervals each part needs. Do well!
That makes sense Frank 😎👌🏼
Cracking video thanks for sharing
Not a digger but our scammell explorer needs it's transmission props greased every 50 mile and that's what REME say in the manual as some of the prop yolks dry out quickly we tend to use good quality high temperature grease from smith and Alan's from Darlington for the transmission then we use cheaper general purpose grease for all the rest on the suspension ,steering , winch and crane
We tried counting all the grease points once but give up after 200 😂
Some old boys with scammells told us not to use grease on the axle and suspension points but use old gear oil instead this seems to help if you've got a blocked one but its a proper messy job 🤠
It's not just about lubrication, greasing also pushes out dirt and moisture. As a retired aircraft engineer seeing people lubricate equipment gives me a warm feeling. One of our guys retired and got a part time job at the local plant hire firm cleaning and greasing returned equipment.
Yea ! Always use good quality grease and oil, It keeps things working . I use an air greaser on my machine after a few hours work. Also carry a hand pump greaser when out away from my workshop.
Excellent video , Explains things well to people who are new to this sort of work. All the best .
How and when to change a grease nipple. That's good basic instruction
You spoke of some very important reasons why we must lube. I enjoyed a video on the "basics".
Excellent video Lord Muck :) what my late Father taught was use high pentriotion on fluid on grease with 2 squirts on grease tip , grease to is High Temperatures or Quality Heavy Equipment Tractor and Truck Moly grease type pump in 4 pumps worth each too! If grease tip don't take take tip and use pentriotion and clean up too! Then install back on try again too and gun do hand grip ones! Also hold tip fitting on and hand pump also do grease every month or on oil change time ! If heavy duty equipment weekly best bet and helps lots!
Great video done correctly , so many people even if they bother to grease, do it WRONG !!!😢 So important to clean all debris from around grease nipple & wipe clean grease nipples with a rag, also keeping the grease gun end wiped clean is important, saves dirt & crud from entering grease lines 😊😊👍👍I use MOBIL XHP 222 lithium based grease, it’s a more sticky grease,excellent on hot temperatures, doesn’t just melt out & run away.That was a great down to earth video, hopefully inspired other people in the art of maintenance 😊😊😊👍👍👍
The best thing I ever bought was a Lock-n-Lube . Every machine has 1 or 2 fittings that you cant reach or you have to hold the tip on the zerk at an angle . That cures it.🍻
Great presentation regular maintenance will keep things moving smoothly new or old machines
My handy tip is to buy a selection of new grease nipples and keep them in the machine. That way you can instantly replace any rusted/blocked/damaged ones and keep greasing. The blocked/damaged ones always get ignored until the point that they run bone dry. You can usually tell a blocked one by the half tube of grease built up around it that never actually went in.
Yep, those storehouse packs from harbor freight are like $9 each.
Good video Mucker, the single biggest bit of advice I give boys as a plant trainer is check your machines lubrication chart, espeically if its a new machine. I have seen new machine over greased as you touched on pushing the seals out, then you will become greasing man every day, a lot of new machines will tell you grease the bucket evrey 40/50hrs rest of the machine might be 150/200hrs but always worth checking every manufacturer may be different.
Good video. Nice and simple does it. Cheers from NZ🇳🇿.
Lovely little bit of kit that Milwaukee grease gun 😁 I had to get myself one too a few months back, it saves so much time & trouble. Highly recommend to any other muckers second guessing whether or not to get one !
Really good back to basics.
👍👍👍right on feller... you're indeed spot on... Years ago bought a used excavator with an auto lube system,.not gonna say the brand,but couldn't get it function properly, don't know if it ever did...but not everything had been getting sufficient lube...pins and bushings got worn as a result.. removed the system and greased with battery gun ever since... down the road i learned that particular lube system had issues on any machine they were installed... anyway,ill never buy a machine with an auto lube..im sure some systems are better than others...idk ..but anyway, thanks for another video 👍👍👊🍻🤘
Good stuff Kurt and Puppo, great tutorial, well covered👌👍🙏🙂
Good lesson for any mechanic or operator, no matter what machine they have. ❤
Same as the boys that run steam engines, you can't skimp on the basics when it comes to lubrication unless you want very big repair costs further up the line!
Great Video.
Rotek swing bearing and swing gear and pinion .
Bucket hinge pin and dipper stick high wear areas and expensive.
I grease every time i use machine.
Planetary track drive unit oil rarely checked changed.
And swing motor planetary gearbox oil as well.
Dont pressure wash swing bearing area or pins bushings pushes sand dirt into grease .
If you don't grease alot zerk fittings clog and channel so no gease can get in bushing pins .
Lincoln makes a impact tool to clear clogged zerk fitting s.
Nice channel Thank you.
Cheers
I’ve got a Milwaukee m18 grease gun with a G coupler on the end .. G coupler is a must in my eyes brilliant little add on !
Great entertainment as always and fantastic advice.
I've learnt, the hard way to ALWAYS carry a new tube of grease the correct socket and driver for the track tension and a side lever grease gun. At base I use an air powered gun, and when not so close to an air line, I use a pistol grip grease gun. Also carry shims(Washers) so when it starts to shake, you can tighten that joint up. Always grease every day its working. I concur with carrying grease nipples in the shop.
Really enjoyed this video! Just purchased a Milwaukee grease gun and then came onto RUclips to see this. 🤣👍
Use a marine grade grease and a trigger pull gun is my preference. I used to drive a 20T Hyundai on a water borne barge, tricky work when you have water under you. I had the use of a 20T Hitachi which I skidded a track off when the grease nipple failed on the track tensioner. I went to work and put it back together but used a marine grade grease.. Once got the us of a 3T little Tackeuchi from a neibour and the main ram groaned like an old man, so I cleaned it with acetone and replaced the nipple and regrease it, noise gone. Always do your engine checks, looking for oil levels but also loose belts, bolts and all your ancillarys. Probably some spelling mistakes.
I operated for a company that the rule was one pump on every fitting every day. A wise old mechanic once told me “the cheapest thing you can buy is oil and grease “
Just happened to be my father.
He knew his stuff 😉
Grease is cheap insurance!
For more info from my occupation which is running older farm equipment a lot of the equipment has no auto lube systems for drive chains. My round baler is a lot of chains getting covered in dirt and dust so lube often. Have used all different kinds of lube over the years but seems to be cheaper to just use what New Holland recommends to use 30w oil. Also when about to use the old New Holland 1915 or 1900 forager expect to use about a full tube of grease to lube the machine.
Highly educational Mr Muck Man.
on my grandads old kobelco when we use it on long days we the main pins every second day the rest about once a week the pins have lasted 36 years! and shes still a great old digger and we use a hand gun
Great video. Back in the day when i was in the seat full time I'd grease first thing whilst she warms up. Only takes 10mins when you keep on top of it. I used to hate being a relief operator on someones elses machine or one thats been on self drive - that could take an hour. I still swear by my manual Cat grease gun. You can feel when things were last greased!
I like your blogs greasing up every day is a good thing to do I am not a operator of these type of machines but enjoy watching your blogs from alison sadler England
Always carried a grease gun in my tractor and when I got in to demolition it was a gun and a case of grease easier than explaining why it broke to the boss
Working with agriculture n earthmoving machinery I take pride in greasing n keep it clean.
1. Machinery manual or sometimes make up one counting grease nipples, recording nipples size.
2. Tools i am fortunate to have 3 grease guns but basic one with long extended hose is good start
Battery, flex hose n long straight gun
3. I made box which contains
Paper towel roll, i hate rags
Box of allsorts of nipples
Grease fitting unblocker
Grease couples
Cleaning tools like screw piece, pick, wire, brush
Nipple guage as i come across different types of nipples.
Anyone who just started in agriculture or plant machinery n your job is grease everything, if cant get grease into the fitting, don't put dob of grease on end of fitting n leave it. ASK someone with experience to find solution to the problem as its not just costly issue but safety issue especially if wheel comes off on main road at fair speed. As for type of grease use what is required, i dont swap different grease around as some greases have different tolerance n adds like powders.
Locking coupler is a must have, can't get into to some holes but is so much less hassle than a standard push on coupler
Can't use it at all on the Q-hitch but I love them
I carry a short length of fence wire and rag to clean around the grease fittings especially around the bucket, coupler and knuckle. 1x pump of grease every 8 hours religiously (depending on age of machine I may add more). I grease at the end of the day when the pins are warm and therefore grease in location is already warm and easy apply extra grease. Dry grease can block fittings hence while the machine is warm I apply. Allows the operator to start a fresh pre-start first thing which usually coincides with trucks being loaded etc. I like to knock off early to grease the machine for the next day.
i run flatbed trucks and haul equipment and for slow moving pins and bushings a grease high in molybdenum and graphite works well. on high speed u joints and in dusty conditions i push a bit of great out of each hex with a lithium complex. Grease needles work well too for a blocked fitting or narrow access point.
I just put my hedge cutter on yesterday, and today I was greasing it, in general it ok but there always grease point what will not take grease.
Sadly it has to sit outside as well and is a big heavy machine but a good machine.
For general use, pumping out track adjusters and the like, a decent Lithium EP2 grease is plenty. For high wear applications - dipper end pins and bushes, kingposts, boom/dipper joint - we tend to think it is worth paying the extra for Lithium Complex EP2 grease. It was a higher temperate range and also better resistance to washout.
There's lots of info at www.digbits.co.uk/technical.html
I think I have a couple brass bushings like what you’re showing in my shop. Had no idea what they were. They were in my grandads stuff.
Great advice as always. Thanks for the video. 👍
I’ve put a few hours on diggers but mostly hire ones for a day or 2. I always been told to leave the extra on the grease nipples when you’ve put grease in, keeps water and muck out of the nipple end and ball bearing in it 🤷♂
You must have been told that by a lazy C**t
Have a Milwaukee Battery grease gun with G coupler . On the main pins i will give a few pumps when the boom is down , lift the boom to top and give a few pumps , means you get grease right around the pins .
Good show sir I work as a mechanic for a garage company in the US. Boy oh boy the way new machines die in the wost ways in a refuse landfill 😢 everything that has to go up there. on and in everything that gets tossed out
well explained again man. matt ireland.
Good video your Lordship.
Some say that the best way is to get a hire machine, that way all the maintenace, greasing and daily checks are done for you... 😅🙃
At the farm we use two grease guns; one is a pistol grip with a flexi pipe, and the other is a lever type with a solid pipe. Just so if you can't get onto a nipple with one you can with the other, particually if they're in a hard to reach place, or a bit old/worn.
Am I right in thinking that the dry hard grease is a sign of lack of regular greasing in the past?
I don't have experience of this type of procedure so it's a genuine question
Nice video LM
Yes or a sign that it's been stood for several years
Great video mate I haven't forgot about your box of haribo I not been to the factory lately 😊
I’m not big on the auto lube stuff. On more than one occasion I’ve caught a problem early because I’ve seen it while going round doing the daily grease. Other thing I’ve found a couple times now normally on a cultivator or rolls rather than the digger, is that a fracture will start from where the hole for the grease nipple is. Get a decent battery grease gun, it doesn’t feel such a chore to do, but they can be a bit expensive.
Hi very slick presentation 👍🐝🙃
Bit like the contractors john deere 7400 I'm servicing at mo 🙄😬🙄, so many grease points but not a drop to see, it's ruined, got the rear steering shaft stripped out this morning as it's screwed on the bush ... sorry, no bush...
They actually make a tool or “stuck” grease zircs that don’t take more grease and it works by having a piston you fill with oil that locks on the zirc and hit it with a hammer and force the oil in and frees up the little ball
Always prefer a grease gun myself instead of auto lube so you can visually see the grease coming out around the bushings and pin, as a regular driver of machines between 0.8 and 3 ton i also make habit myself and tell young lads just starting out on machines to visually check any welds and the actual boom and dipper for any cracks while greasing, especially if its an older machine or been used on a tough application. Equally check the teeth on the bucket while your greasing the bucket pins, catching a problem early is always better than the problem catching you out.
I just use what the manufacturer recommends for grease and oil and a battery operated grease gun makes it so much easier so it will more likely get used.
Good Video Mucker you can't place enough importance on proper lubrication of equipment and the older the piece is the more important it is and replacing pins and bushings is neither Fun or cheap
Bit of wire brush poke down nipple removed or blow tourch heat and burn 🔥 off old grease......... try leave with rams in so it protects pitting on the rods I like my manual grease gun simple less to go wrong..... old scats dapper grease gun terrible got a different flex pipe from a local tool shop better locking tip on nipple and easy to bleed 😉 at beginning
Good points, Sadly my little Benford Me 130, needs a lot of TLC. I need a calamity Kim rebuilder.
Great video , keep them greased 👍🏼👍🏼. Good advice. Enjoyed watching. 👍🏼👍🏼
When I was at school my dad had a digger and every Sunday it was my job to grease up for him so on it was all checked ready to go on Monday
That would be an interesting one to watch. You re bushing that excavator
Not much different to doing the Kubota we've already done
Mucker great video very interesting and informative I've never been on any plant machinery just find it fascinating to watch. Do they fit any kind of warning lights or systems to these machines to warn the operator that the joints need lubrication? Sorry to anyone if that sounds daft ❤️
Some larger equipment have lube monitors fitted
A good operator will pick up on any sound or squeak then stop and grease.
Some drivers have a built in warning system to grease the machine..it’s usually when they know the boss is making a site visit 😅
Interested to hear your thoughts on what you think the best 13 ton 360 is on the market now. Thanks
Didnt OLF have a issue on his big baler where the tube carrying the grease from the auto lube to the crank was broken and went unnoticed and he then had to do major surgery to replace parts..
When I grease equipment I go till I see fresh grease that way I know for sure I have grease in everywhere that needs it
Great video!
Hey Lord Muck what do have for us today and I was just watching Matt on Diesel Creek also.
Well interesting to watch...and im a plumber 👍🏻
A great video thanks
Battery powered guns and g-couplers make it so easy these days to grease up.
We use Fuchs renolit Mo2 on digger/loader pins , love my Screw on cartridge grease gun for EP2/ blue high temp , but the Mo2 comes in the old cartridges so it's a trusty old JCB grease gun for that. Its a shame as the screw on cartridges are bigger to start in all
New home operator here (Cat 301.7). So I Have a Ryobi sprayer that you can attach A 2 liter of water too. It has this turbo head swirls around in a circle. Takes about two minutes and 3/4 of the water to spray off all the fittings. Doesn’t seem like Water can go in because it really sprays around it more than in it. I do it at the end of every day so it’s clean and dry in the morning and ready to be greased. i’ve never heard of anyone doing this, so I’m hoping it’s not a bad idea. I would guess that if water is getting in it can’t be more than a drop. Is this a good idea or a bad idea
Just love your channel Lord Muck. ❤❤ you and George are fkn classics 💪🏻👍
Might get lucky and have an grease chart sticker In the cab.
Unfortunately I don't get to pull levers anymore. Sure miss it sometimes!
I can remember the days 1965 class mercury combine 8foot 6 cut Perkins p4 on the side at least 50 grease nipples sum twice a day and a 1 gallon castrol pressure gun. You were covered in crap before you started and to lithargic at night to do it. Onley 200 acres to do in a season.
The biggest problem with today's operators is that it's not there machine and they are lazy and don't give a fuck
But with that been said there are some that do and they take very good care of that machine
In western Australia they have a summer grease and a winter grease get them mix around and it can cause all kinds of trouble
Keep up the good work mucker 👍
nice one I learnt so much I have a small question what is the difference between the black and red Greece? what is your opinion and what is the best one.
It all depends on the application as to what grease to use
We have a small digger here on the farm, do keep it well greased.
Better grease than broken parts.
No notification from Loob Tube 🤬🤬 routine lubrication made a lot simpler if fortunate enough to get a machine from new and carry out daily maintenance which doesn't take so much time, and also just prefer a manual grease with a quality end on it 👌
Thanks Kurt loved the vid .... Take care sir....
Cheers Kev 👍
Looks like you could use a few shims. Next episode, shims 102?
No.
No, you're right. Grease is cheaper than metal work and it's a good idea to do that and keep it going. Although a lot of people, don't they just look at it? I'll just get a new one that's up to them. They must like spending their money.
Love the Snap-On joke!
We use an orapi product a silver grease very expensive but you grease once a week and if conditions are really bad twice well worth it
6:57 can you put a link to the £2 grease Mukka please I can’t buy it anywhere near that price.🙏
Buy it in bulk
Oil & Grease is always costs less than pins, bushings, line boring and mechanic`s labor charges. Better machine operators know to check grease points, fluids & oils before the start of each machine use. We know not everyone is one of those "better operators".