I use a $6 needle file set from Harbor Freight. It has various shapes and requires no maintenance. It also comes in a nice storage package so I can see when one is missing.
Reminds me of an old cartoon from a long time ago. It was a “handyman’s tip” to draw the outline of your tools on the pegboard where you hang them so you’ll know what to buy when you lose something.
I ended up just using the corner on the 3M wheel. Only need to worry about the outer edge that is mating against the skins. Once I learned how the edges of the flanges would be mating with the skins, I saved a lot of time.
Agree, you definitely want to deburr edges that will touch other surfaces (like the part of a rib flange that will make contact with the skin) so you don't scratch or create a stress point that will turn into a crack over time. But I've also been under the impression that any major irregularity can over time and vibration be a stress riser. So that's why I tend to deburr just about everything. Maybe I'm going overboard but I don't think it can hurt. Just take forever ;-)
@@missiletwentynine2667 I always run over everything with scotch pad in prep for priming anyway. For sure I went overboard with the tail too. I mean, why not right? My mentor kinda told me I was going overboard too. Same with the fluting. Perfection can be the enemy of good enough! Keep on posting, really enjoying your videos!
@@smellyallen I've wondered about the fluting, and all the work I go to to get flanges 90 degrees, then things get wrenched around a good bit when assembling and riveting, especially when you have to flex the structure around to gain access to a particular rivet. Can't hurt, though, and it's a learning process.
I use a $6 needle file set from Harbor Freight. It has various shapes and requires no maintenance. It also comes in a nice storage package so I can see when one is missing.
LOL see when one is missing…. I like it!
@@missiletwentynine2667 I’m always leaving one laying around somewhere.
Reminds me of an old cartoon from a long time ago. It was a “handyman’s tip” to draw the outline of your tools on the pegboard where you hang them so you’ll know what to buy when you lose something.
Thank you for showing how you made that little tool. Appreciate it. Wings will be arriving soon and I’ll need it for the quadrillion ribs haha
You bet! Hope it helps! I ordered my wings a couple of months ago, but still have a while to wait.
I ended up just using the corner on the 3M wheel. Only need to worry about the outer edge that is mating against the skins. Once I learned how the edges of the flanges would be mating with the skins, I saved a lot of time.
Agree, you definitely want to deburr edges that will touch other surfaces (like the part of a rib flange that will make contact with the skin) so you don't scratch or create a stress point that will turn into a crack over time. But I've also been under the impression that any major irregularity can over time and vibration be a stress riser. So that's why I tend to deburr just about everything. Maybe I'm going overboard but I don't think it can hurt. Just take forever ;-)
@@missiletwentynine2667 I always run over everything with scotch pad in prep for priming anyway. For sure I went overboard with the tail too. I mean, why not right? My mentor kinda told me I was going overboard too. Same with the fluting. Perfection can be the enemy of good enough! Keep on posting, really enjoying your videos!
@@smellyallen I've wondered about the fluting, and all the work I go to to get flanges 90 degrees, then things get wrenched around a good bit when assembling and riveting, especially when you have to flex the structure around to gain access to a particular rivet. Can't hurt, though, and it's a learning process.
Great idea. I'm learning a lot from your videos. Do you find 400 grit sandpaper works best?
Thanks! For this, yes, I'd say 400 is a good compromise.