We used paper bowls, plastic spoons, and popsicle sticks for mixing. For encapsulating rivet heads, I used a piece of the fuel vent line that was leftover and flared it out with the flaring tool and would dip it in the proseal and spin it on each rivet head.
my first video of yours to watch.. the tiles, double gloves, red cup to load a bag. 3 great tips and not even half way. I have seen some people mixing proseal and I'm not sure they were getting a complete mix. On 2 part systems its important to really mix the 2 pretty much down to the molecular level or close. You seem to be a better craftsman than many men... I doubt I would ever build a plane but I am falling down he Vans rabbit hole this last month.. and also learned about the laser parts issue and I fascinated by the laser parts problem as a retired mechanical engineer who worked on secret military designs and production issues. I am sure there was some ME like me at Vans if they have any who had his hand up in the air early on... I cant imagine they didn't have parts individually labels as to date, batch and origin of manufacture.
Great Video guys! I also use 2 pair of latex gloves when I do Epoxy Layups with Carbon fibre. I don't ever wear good T shirts, because they WILL get ruined! As I found out too many times. See you at OSH 23.
I think I would have made the tank to accept the return line from the start, as you could blank it, if you didn't go down the injection route and it would be available for a retro upgrade to injection later, if you had wanted to. That said you made a good choice at the time and had no issues when you decided to go injection.
We didn’t want to drill the hole if we weren’t going to need a return line and then have to worry about sealing it sufficiently to not leak if we opted not to use it. That was our thought process
You don’t prime the inside of the fuel tanks - you don’t want anything getting into the fuel. Van’s specifically says in their instructions (18-4, Step 9): “do not prime any area that will be in the inside of the tank.”
Fair, but we already had sandwich baggies and solo cups at the house so we didn’t have to buy anything using those 😉 and the nice thing with the small baggie is it fit pretty much anywhere in the tank in any orientation if we needed to apply more
I'm guessing that you built your fuel tanks prior to December 2020? You must be wading through a LOT of video files. It seems you're a lot farther along in the build process than the most recently posted videos reflect. How about a video about how far along you are as of February, 2023? Thanks for the tip on using ziplock bags to protect things you don't want Pro Seal on. Pro Seal seems to have a mind of its own, like the 1958 movie, The Blob.
Didn’t throw out any shirts - just used the one in the videos. It’s washed and clean save for the pro-seal on it and keeping it to use for future pro-seal or other dirty jobs. And fortunately I did not get any pro-seal in my hair, lol! 😁
What a nasty inappropriate Mess.....Worst leak prone possible design.....Use Real pre-tested all Metal aircraft fuel tanks well Isolated from wing vibrations & dimensional Stress....Don't use aircraft fuel Tanks for Structural members.....
We used paper bowls, plastic spoons, and popsicle sticks for mixing. For encapsulating rivet heads, I used a piece of the fuel vent line that was leftover and flared it out with the flaring tool and would dip it in the proseal and spin it on each rivet head.
Another great video guys! Thank you for all your time spent on these.
Glad you like them! 😊
my first video of yours to watch.. the tiles, double gloves, red cup to load a bag. 3 great tips and not even half way. I have seen some people mixing proseal and I'm not sure they were getting a complete mix. On 2 part systems its important to really mix the 2 pretty much down to the molecular level or close. You seem to be a better craftsman than many men... I doubt I would ever build a plane but I am falling down he Vans rabbit hole this last month.. and also learned about the laser parts issue and I fascinated by the laser parts problem as a retired mechanical engineer who worked on secret military designs and production issues. I am sure there was some ME like me at Vans if they have any who had his hand up in the air early on... I cant imagine they didn't have parts individually labels as to date, batch and origin of manufacture.
Great Video guys! I also use 2 pair of latex gloves when I do Epoxy Layups with Carbon fibre. I don't ever wear good T shirts, because they WILL get ruined! As I found out too many times. See you at OSH 23.
I LIKE your timing (Van's Builders Weekly newsletter just put up your part I today 😀)
Oh cool! 😊 thanks for letting me know
So many great tips!!!
Thank you 😊
Thanks for sharing!
You're welcome 😊
Very useful comments, tips and tricks. The upspeak annoys this old guy though, it's a generational thing I suppose.🤠
I think I would have made the tank to accept the return line from the start, as you could blank it, if you didn't go down the injection route and it would be available for a retro upgrade to injection later, if you had wanted to. That said you made a good choice at the time and had no issues when you decided to go injection.
We didn’t want to drill the hole if we weren’t going to need a return line and then have to worry about sealing it sufficiently to not leak if we opted not to use it. That was our thought process
@@PlaneLady Understandable. I was just thinking of giving flexiblity down the line later, if a change in mind.
Makes sense 👍
any reason you didn't prime the inside of the skin and all of the stiffeners first?
You don’t prime the inside of the fuel tanks - you don’t want anything getting into the fuel. Van’s specifically says in their instructions (18-4, Step 9): “do not prime any area that will be in the inside of the tank.”
ah ok, good to know then. Thank you
I'd love to meet you guys. My airplane projects are principally in wood.
A cleaner way would be to buy empty sealant cartridges from brown aircraft tool and get a cheap sealant gun on ebay.
Fair, but we already had sandwich baggies and solo cups at the house so we didn’t have to buy anything using those 😉 and the nice thing with the small baggie is it fit pretty much anywhere in the tank in any orientation if we needed to apply more
I'm guessing that you built your fuel tanks prior to December 2020? You must be wading through a LOT of video files. It seems you're a lot farther along in the build process than the most recently posted videos reflect. How about a video about how far along you are as of February, 2023? Thanks for the tip on using ziplock bags to protect things you don't want Pro Seal on. Pro Seal seems to have a mind of its own, like the 1958 movie, The Blob.
So Christine, How many shirts did you have to throw out?? How much Pro Seal did you get into your hair looking inside the Tanks?
Didn’t throw out any shirts - just used the one in the videos. It’s washed and clean save for the pro-seal on it and keeping it to use for future pro-seal or other dirty jobs. And fortunately I did not get any pro-seal in my hair, lol! 😁
Holy hell what did you do order an airplane from Ikea 😂 yikes
Lol! Kind of 😂 it’s pretty cool!
What a nasty inappropriate Mess.....Worst leak prone possible design.....Use Real pre-tested all Metal aircraft fuel tanks well Isolated from wing vibrations & dimensional Stress....Don't use aircraft fuel Tanks for Structural members.....
Wear a mask!!