Over engineered? That's only if there are simpler options available. In this case, adapting the Cherry keycaps for Alp stems is considered the holy grail.
if you guys could turn this into a mass produced product it would make custom alps boards way easier, especially if you're into super small boards like me
I guess that would be interesting for a couple of folks but it unfortunately does not make economical sense. I mean if you want anything mass produced, you have to be sure there is a sizeable market for it and Alps is such a niche that any attempt in this direction would be a straight way to bankruptcy.
Their standard 1/8" flat end-mill (tool #102) and a special deep-reach 3-flute 1mm end mill (I do not know the manufacturer but it is US made). Plus 3mm drill that turned out not to be necessary (I made the hole in order to eject the keycap but I made the mount loose enough to remove it).
Here's another possibility, which would scale the process. How about thermally molding the stem in situ using a custom hot die? Take a piece of roughly 1/2"x3/8" diameter round brass stock and mill or broach a slot with the exact dimensions as an alp stem on its end face, creating its negative impression. On the opposite end, turn down and thread the stock so it can screw onto a temperature controlled wood or soldering iron. Finally, create a fixture to precise position the keycap upside down along with a mount for vertically actuating the iron on a drill press, drill guide, or even CNC. With the keycap secured precisely in position and the temperature set to melt ABS, the iron is lowered and pressed over the stem, melting the Cherry stem to conform to an Alps stem. SPECIAL NOTE: The slot should have a slight draft to prevent the plastic from getting stuck and being pulled away. Also, the slot should be polished with buffing compound to cleaned. It might be a trial and error process to hone in on a good uniform impression. It might be useful to also drilling a centered thru-hole the entire length of the die for poking out plastic debris, or as an additional flow channel for the molten plastic. The existing Cherry + impression also serves as channels flow channels.
Right now I sell only keyboard kits with keycaps ready to be mounted on the switches, no machining necessary. If I sell keycaps separately in the future (this is very likely), they will also come as a 'final product'. I am only showing these things here to give folks an idea of the complexity of the manufacturing process compared to the classic injection moulding.
@@keymacs Ah well. Was hoping I could get my hands on raw material for making my own. Ah, speaking of raw material... with the stuff you use, do you have to ventilate? I ask because I want to do this at home, but I'm completely new to the whole process, and I want to make sure I take the right precautions. And if so is the case, what equipment would you recommend for home use?
@@NormanRDolan The best way, especially if you just started, is to start experimenting with silicone moulds and polyurethane. I use Smooth-On products (Smooth-Sil for moulds and Smooth-Cast for keycaps). You will need pressure tanks, compressor and a degassing chamber. If you want to just create keycaps based on existing ones, one of the easiest ways is to purchase a mould-making kit like :~$YNTH 3.2.
@@keymacs Alright, then. Thanks. I may need an explanation on the roles of these devices in the process. And where in the US can I get Smooth-On products?
The Mold Star 16 FAST was just an experiment, it sets faster but it is not as dimensionally stable. Smooth-Sil 945 is much better choice and I will stick with it.
@@keymacs oh that is nice, would you recommend them for a beginner keyboard enthusiasts and for gaming, and other question , when we are talking about switches tech like hollow switches or buckling springs tech, etc. which switches tech do you prefer or consider better
@@unLinuxeroMas For a beginner, I would probably recommend contact MX clones. The best way is to buy a cheaper kit and assemble it to get insight into the process. Alps in a good condition are hard to find, finding keycaps is next to impossible, their restoration is tedious and the result may be disappointing. Of course, you can ask me to manufacture keycaps for you but I would not recommend it for a beginner. 😄 Keymacs is more or less the end game. Regarding the switch tech, I kind of like the idea of Hall effect switches but all the keyboards I use on a daily bases are classic contact-switch keyboards. Nothing wrong with that.
Please bear in mind this is a very general process. It can also be used to make the keycaps thicker, thus improving their sound, repairing broken mounts, or labelling blank keycaps. Considering all that, the process is not that complicated.
Hi, this is just a technological demo. I cannot offer this as a service because there is always a possibility to damage existing keycap. Also, the whole process takes several hours so I cannot quite put a price on that.
@@keymacs No, I'm just looking for a way to use my Dbrand keycap. However it appears that I'm going to have to look into getting a new keyboard in order to use it.
@@keymacs Hipro profile keycaps. It's sort of a SA style keycap that was exclusive to Topre switches but are ridiculously rare and expensive now (400$ is a steal with more rare sets going over 1000$). While I would love to see them in topre made by you, it would be just as sick to see them with alps, they'd sound great with tactiles.
@@rcbuggies57 I see, sorry for my ignorance. I do not plan to remake other profiles, there may be legal issues and I am more interested in creating my own (and in particular, I am not a fan of SA because it is a nonsense profile unless you mount it on switches angled 11 degrees). I have currently invested into extending my set of bases to cover everything on standard ISO/ANSI keyboards and HHKB and a Topre variant of my own profile is only a matter of time. 😎
That was the most satisfying yet over engineered thing I have ever seen
Over engineered? That's only if there are simpler options available. In this case, adapting the Cherry keycaps for Alp stems is considered the holy grail.
if you guys could turn this into a mass produced product it would make custom alps boards way easier, especially if you're into super small boards like me
I guess that would be interesting for a couple of folks but it unfortunately does not make economical sense. I mean if you want anything mass produced, you have to be sure there is a sizeable market for it and Alps is such a niche that any attempt in this direction would be a straight way to bankruptcy.
always love a good keymacs engineering video
really impressive work as always
Like most of you other videos, love it. I wish I had a milling machine and a bit more time ....
Nice video, what bits do you use with the Nomad to make these cuts? Thanks
Their standard 1/8" flat end-mill (tool #102) and a special deep-reach 3-flute 1mm end mill (I do not know the manufacturer but it is US made). Plus 3mm drill that turned out not to be necessary (I made the hole in order to eject the keycap but I made the mount loose enough to remove it).
I was hopeful for some sort of kit or product. I was instead amazed by absurd overengineering
Yep, this is just a demo showing what can be done if you have nothing better to do. 🤣
Here's another possibility, which would scale the process. How about thermally molding the stem in situ using a custom hot die? Take a piece of roughly 1/2"x3/8" diameter round brass stock and mill or broach a slot with the exact dimensions as an alp stem on its end face, creating its negative impression. On the opposite end, turn down and thread the stock so it can screw onto a temperature controlled wood or soldering iron. Finally, create a fixture to precise position the keycap upside down along with a mount for vertically actuating the iron on a drill press, drill guide, or even CNC. With the keycap secured precisely in position and the temperature set to melt ABS, the iron is lowered and pressed over the stem, melting the Cherry stem to conform to an Alps stem.
SPECIAL NOTE: The slot should have a slight draft to prevent the plastic from getting stuck and being pulled away. Also, the slot should be polished with buffing compound to cleaned. It might be a trial and error process to hone in on a good uniform impression. It might be useful to also drilling a centered thru-hole the entire length of the die for poking out plastic debris, or as an additional flow channel for the molten plastic. The existing Cherry + impression also serves as channels flow channels.
Interesting, it probably can be done although I have no experience with molten plastics (and try to avoid it).
Damnn, awesome video, thank you!
What I'd like to know is if you sell any of those blanks you always use, unmachined, for those who have milling machines to shape to their own ends?
Right now I sell only keyboard kits with keycaps ready to be mounted on the switches, no machining necessary. If I sell keycaps separately in the future (this is very likely), they will also come as a 'final product'. I am only showing these things here to give folks an idea of the complexity of the manufacturing process compared to the classic injection moulding.
@@keymacs Ah well. Was hoping I could get my hands on raw material for making my own.
Ah, speaking of raw material... with the stuff you use, do you have to ventilate? I ask because I want to do this at home, but I'm completely new to the whole process, and I want to make sure I take the right precautions. And if so is the case, what equipment would you recommend for home use?
@@NormanRDolan The best way, especially if you just started, is to start experimenting with silicone moulds and polyurethane. I use Smooth-On products (Smooth-Sil for moulds and Smooth-Cast for keycaps). You will need pressure tanks, compressor and a degassing chamber. If you want to just create keycaps based on existing ones, one of the easiest ways is to purchase a mould-making kit like :~$YNTH 3.2.
@@keymacs Alright, then. Thanks.
I may need an explanation on the roles of these devices in the process. And where in the US can I get Smooth-On products?
I saw you use Mold Star™ 16 FAST now instead of Smooth‑Sil™ 945 is there any particular reason? Which one can you recommend more for similar stuff?
The Mold Star 16 FAST was just an experiment, it sets faster but it is not as dimensionally stable. Smooth-Sil 945 is much better choice and I will stick with it.
Please, I beg you to make hipro keycaps
in your opinion wich is the best key switches of all time
I prefer orange alps skcm (in a good condition) but are they really the best switches? Honestly, I do not know.
@@keymacs why do you like orange alps skcm switches,
@@unLinuxeroMas Ideal weighting for me + the tactility is really nice + the sound is also great. I can type very fast on these switches.
@@keymacs oh that is nice, would you recommend them for a beginner keyboard enthusiasts and for gaming, and other question , when we are talking about switches tech like hollow switches or buckling springs tech, etc. which switches tech do you prefer or consider better
@@unLinuxeroMas For a beginner, I would probably recommend contact MX clones. The best way is to buy a cheaper kit and assemble it to get insight into the process. Alps in a good condition are hard to find, finding keycaps is next to impossible, their restoration is tedious and the result may be disappointing. Of course, you can ask me to manufacture keycaps for you but I would not recommend it for a beginner. 😄 Keymacs is more or less the end game. Regarding the switch tech, I kind of like the idea of Hall effect switches but all the keyboards I use on a daily bases are classic contact-switch keyboards. Nothing wrong with that.
this is too compilcated
this looks like such a long and overengineered way to do this. is there no way to make it simpler?
Please bear in mind this is a very general process. It can also be used to make the keycaps thicker, thus improving their sound, repairing broken mounts, or labelling blank keycaps. Considering all that, the process is not that complicated.
@@keymacs that's very interesting and cool!
Do you think you could do the same thing for this: r/keyboards 1ck0lao
If so how much would you charge?
Hi, this is just a technological demo. I cannot offer this as a service because there is always a possibility to damage existing keycap. Also, the whole process takes several hours so I cannot quite put a price on that.
@@keymacs While that is disheartening i am at least appreciative that you responded. Thank you.
@@Sin_Shadow_Fox No problem! Btw. I make keycap sets in my own profile if you are interested. 😉
@@keymacs No, I'm just looking for a way to use my Dbrand keycap. However it appears that I'm going to have to look into getting a new keyboard in order to use it.
Please, I beg you to make hipro keycaps
Make what?
@@keymacs Hipro profile keycaps. It's sort of a SA style keycap that was exclusive to Topre switches but are ridiculously rare and expensive now (400$ is a steal with more rare sets going over 1000$). While I would love to see them in topre made by you, it would be just as sick to see them with alps, they'd sound great with tactiles.
@@rcbuggies57 I see, sorry for my ignorance. I do not plan to remake other profiles, there may be legal issues and I am more interested in creating my own (and in particular, I am not a fan of SA because it is a nonsense profile unless you mount it on switches angled 11 degrees). I have currently invested into extending my set of bases to cover everything on standard ISO/ANSI keyboards and HHKB and a Topre variant of my own profile is only a matter of time. 😎