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Thanks! All materials are by Smooth-On. Smooth-Sil 945 for the moulds and Smooth-Cast 310 for casting the keycaps. The silicon is degassed and both the silicon and PU are cured in pressure chambers at 60 PSI.

@@keymacs Brilliant results. Thanks for the information! Excellent work

I make the keycaps in clusters now, it is slightly more efficient than that but still a lot of work (a lot of the work is actually not shown in the video like cleaning the edges of each legend under a microscope).

@@keymacs I wish I could afford the board with genuine brown alps. Maybe someday..

@@nac5605 That's one of the best setups but finding brown Alps in decent condition is pretty hard now.

@@keymacs Is it possible to special order this board in an anodized black colorway? I would pay a lot extra for that my friend...

@@nac5605 Actually, yes. I have only 5 cases left and in the future I do not plan to order a huge batch in one color but I would like to make bespoke cases instead, either anodized in clear/black or with a ceracote finish.

Thanks!

@@keymacs 01:34 What's that blue material? Thanks.

@@mikekiske Smooth-Cast 310 colored by UVO pigment, both by Smooth-Sil.

@@keymacs Nice. I Did not know that smooth on had a product that could be cnc-ed. Thanks.

@@mikekiske Well, they do not declare it as a material that can be milled, however, it is soft enough and very easy to machine.

You can look into some vintage IBM style keyboards. I have a Taiwanese IBM replica, and it sounds great.

I prefer orange alps skcm (in a good condition) but are they really the best switches? Honestly, I do not know.

@@keymacs why do you like orange alps skcm switches,

@@unLinuxeroMas Ideal weighting for me + the tactility is really nice + the sound is also great. I can type very fast on these switches.

@@keymacs oh that is nice, would you recommend them for a beginner keyboard enthusiasts and for gaming, and other question , when we are talking about switches tech like hollow switches or buckling springs tech, etc. which switches tech do you prefer or consider better

@@unLinuxeroMas For a beginner, I would probably recommend contact MX clones. The best way is to buy a cheaper kit and assemble it to get insight into the process. Alps in a good condition are hard to find, finding keycaps is next to impossible, their restoration is tedious and the result may be disappointing. Of course, you can ask me to manufacture keycaps for you but I would not recommend it for a beginner. 😄 Keymacs is more or less the end game. Regarding the switch tech, I kind of like the idea of Hall effect switches but all the keyboards I use on a daily bases are classic contact-switch keyboards. Nothing wrong with that.

I guess that would be interesting for a couple of folks but it unfortunately does not make economical sense. I mean if you want anything mass produced, you have to be sure there is a sizeable market for it and Alps is such a niche that any attempt in this direction would be a straight way to bankruptcy.

In terms of the feel? I do not know, I have not tried wooting keyboards so far. Anyway, wooting keyboard does not come with the proper layout. 😂 But seriously, I can also make MX compatible switches, so making a Hall effect Keymacs on wooting switches would be interesting.

@@keymacs it would be epic to see

@@unLinuxeroMas I'll probably happen one day. It is among the mutations I want to keep for myself. I will also make MX version on Anubis switches that I have in my private stash. It seems to me they are pretty decent (for an MX clone).

In most cases I build the standard Symbolics layout but I have already made some customs that deviate from that in both the legends and the key placements/sizes.

Do you mean the end mills? 0.3mm flat nose end mill for the legend, I have also used 0.13mm but I had issues with the depth of reach.

@@keymacs Yeah i meant that!, damn those are tiny D:

I lube both the spring and the slider (on its sides). It makes the switches less rattly. The feel is about the same unless you lube the slider from the click plate (or tactile plate) side. Then, it becomes almost linear-significantly less tactile (plus, clicky switches may cease clicking).

Thanks! The blue/grey color scheme was inspired by Space Cadet keyboards. I hope to make more color variants in the future. I am open to making custom color variations based on customers' requests.

Hi, this is just a technological demo. I cannot offer this as a service because there is always a possibility to damage existing keycap. Also, the whole process takes several hours so I cannot quite put a price on that.

@@keymacs While that is disheartening i am at least appreciative that you responded. Thank you.

@@Sin_Shadow_Fox No problem! Btw. I make keycap sets in my own profile if you are interested. 😉

@@keymacs No, I'm just looking for a way to use my Dbrand keycap. However it appears that I'm going to have to look into getting a new keyboard in order to use it.

I agree, the sleek design is just timeless and the layout is ingenious.

I do not blame them, probably the algorithm was just suggesting the video to random folks who did not have a clue about the hobby and small scale manufacturing. 😂

It is just a fancy name for a backspace.

@@keymacs I thought it would mean something else… use your imagination.

No, sanding would ruin the surface. Just isopropyl alcohol, small brush, and a lot of patience. 😉

Do you mean making a keycap with MX mount? Yes, I can.

@@keymacs I mean making a solid keycap like this with mx or alps mount, but it would have to protrude a bit so the switch can bottom out right?

@@chubeviewer Ah, I understand now, … Yes, that is also possible. 😄 I have not done that yet but there does not seem to be any obstacle.

@@keymacs I just wonder what it would sound like on your keyboard.

@@chubeviewer I have 500 pcs of these switches, so there will be 5 keyboards built in the future. It will require a new keycap profile and a much bigger case because the switches are tall, …

Somebody on DT found a secret stash of 1800 switches in NOS condition, … they are all gone. I purchased 500 pcs. to make a very limited series of keyboards (perhaps 60% kishsaver-style keyboards). The switches are nice. Actually a nice typing demo is here: ruclips.net/video/99J-_DDWZjA/видео.htmlsi=oS9lop8ea4JHN59y

Yep, nearly 4x heavier than vintage Cherry keycaps. I could have made them more hollow but since the mount is CNC machined, it is actually simpler to make them thick. 😀

I love it, would love to see them and hear them on the full keymacs board. @@keymacs

Right now I sell only keyboard kits with keycaps ready to be mounted on the switches, no machining necessary. If I sell keycaps separately in the future (this is very likely), they will also come as a 'final product'. I am only showing these things here to give folks an idea of the complexity of the manufacturing process compared to the classic injection moulding.

@@keymacs Ah well. Was hoping I could get my hands on raw material for making my own. Ah, speaking of raw material... with the stuff you use, do you have to ventilate? I ask because I want to do this at home, but I'm completely new to the whole process, and I want to make sure I take the right precautions. And if so is the case, what equipment would you recommend for home use?

​@@NormanRDolan The best way, especially if you just started, is to start experimenting with silicone moulds and polyurethane. I use Smooth-On products (Smooth-Sil for moulds and Smooth-Cast for keycaps). You will need pressure tanks, compressor and a degassing chamber. If you want to just create keycaps based on existing ones, one of the easiest ways is to purchase a mould-making kit like :~$YNTH 3.2.

​@@keymacs Alright, then. Thanks. I may need an explanation on the roles of these devices in the process. And where in the US can I get Smooth-On products?

Just wait a couple more months, … 😉

​@@keymacsany updates maybe? 🥺

@@ishtopor Just finishing my first full-size UK ISO keycap set with 7U spacebar, … give me 2 weeks. 😉

The switches were in a very good condition, they are just lightly cleaned, no lube on the springs. But I must admit that the ping is little annoying. 😉

Yep, this is just a demo showing what can be done if you have nothing better to do. 🤣

Make what?

@@keymacs Hipro profile keycaps. It's sort of a SA style keycap that was exclusive to Topre switches but are ridiculously rare and expensive now (400$ is a steal with more rare sets going over 1000$). While I would love to see them in topre made by you, it would be just as sick to see them with alps, they'd sound great with tactiles.

@@rcbuggies57 I see, sorry for my ignorance. I do not plan to remake other profiles, there may be legal issues and I am more interested in creating my own (and in particular, I am not a fan of SA because it is a nonsense profile unless you mount it on switches angled 11 degrees). I have currently invested into extending my set of bases to cover everything on standard ISO/ANSI keyboards and HHKB and a Topre variant of my own profile is only a matter of time. 😎

Oh, really? Each keycap takes me about 1 hour to make. But you are right, it is ridiculous, I should have charge at least 3k.

@@keymacs Look I appreciate the work you have done and believe me the end result is amazing. Im sorry if I came off a rude, but I've been wanting something like this for a long time and this is waaaay out of my budget. :( I'm just sad I can't afford them.

@@williamowens2063 No problem. 😉 I would love to make them cheaper but the manufacturing process just prohibits it. On the other hand it is one of the things that makes the keyboard unique and some folks appreciate it.

The Mold Star 16 FAST was just an experiment, it sets faster but it is not as dimensionally stable. Smooth-Sil 945 is much better choice and I will stick with it.

Interesting, it probably can be done although I have no experience with molten plastics (and try to avoid it).

Please bear in mind this is a very general process. It can also be used to make the keycaps thicker, thus improving their sound, repairing broken mounts, or labelling blank keycaps. Considering all that, the process is not that complicated.

@@keymacs that's very interesting and cool!

Their standard 1/8" flat end-mill (tool #102) and a special deep-reach 3-flute 1mm end mill (I do not know the manufacturer but it is US made). Plus 3mm drill that turned out not to be necessary (I made the hole in order to eject the keycap but I made the mount loose enough to remove it).

Over engineered? That's only if there are simpler options available. In this case, adapting the Cherry keycaps for Alp stems is considered the holy grail.