There’s two holes on the back off the flange, they are there for u to put something into and then use a punch and hammer, this will separate the prop from the flange,
Excellent video. I don’t even have this vehicle but stumbled upon your video looking for something else, and ended up watching the whole thing. You’ve got patience! Nice work.
@@skintgenius2104 hello , I have a xc90 2010 106K miles on dash, and I can hear noises in the back when accelerating and deceleration , silly question I have , how long can this last until the diff is gonna give up? Or I shouldn’t drive it until fix? Thanks
@@sorinmihai9405 Hi, with anything like this the sooner the better really. I done a few thousand miles on mine as I originally thought it was the wheel bearing. The noise will get worse the longer you leave it and I think I read somewhere that it could damage other components like the gearbox if left to long.
@@skintgenius2104 thanks for the advice, my mechanic says it’s better to get a back subframe with diff from a use one do u think it’s better or rebuilt my diff? Thanks
The pipe clamp and pry bit was genius, my pinion doesn't have threaded holes to press the flanges apart and they were so siezed together I was worried I would damage them beating them apart like seen on other videos but clamp and pry was brilliant worked great thanks.
I´m doing this job on my XC90 at the moment. I had a lot of help looking at this clip. I will change the bearings and seals and it should be as new. Thanks for the great video!
about to do the same sort of thing with my 2010 XC60 T6. Probably sourcing all the Timkin or SKF bearings and such then having the local shop do a rebuild. For anyone who doesn't know, Landrover LR2 or other models shared the same exact rear diff.
Great video, thanks for taking the time to put it together. I know first hand that dragging the camera under the car is not really convenient or pleasant. I’m doing the same job on my xc70 and am having the same challenge getting the prop shaft to come away from the viscous coupler. I need to drop my subframe by a few inches to replace a couple of bushings and I don’t think the prop shaft will permit sufficient downward movement hence the need to extract from the VC.
Thanks for the kind comment. It sure was a big job. Disconnecting the prop shaft was the most time consuming part for me. Some people have better luck and can get it apart quite easily. Good luck with yours and hope this vid can help you out some. 👍
David Jackson I ended up taking an air chisel to it. I started by hitting the prop shaft dead on vertically from below until I had made a notch. Once the notch formed I was able to angle the chisel at 45deg to generate some forward hammering motion. I did that then rotated the shaft and repeated. It took a while but it finally gave.
I'm surprized by these diffs failing after such a relatively short time. My 30-year-old MB has never had a problem, I also have friends with MBs from the 60s and 70s, never had a diff problem.
It was a challenge for sure. I start these things and think what the hell am I doing, I must be mad. But when it all comes together it's well worth it.
Wow. Knowing all these volvo issues! I'd suggest changing that rear oil often, like every 10,000 miles. My brother has this problem on his 2011 xc90. Scary 😱 🤮
That looks like a load of grief. Interesting that the FL2 has the same diff. Early models of those are notorious for whining diffs (pre 2011). Land Rover say its to do with their terrain response system putting too much torque on the bearing during acceleration. There is an upgraded bearing available, but as they're all older now most owners just opt for a rebuilt diff. Bell Engineering are the recognised UK experts on Freelanders, having fixed many. They also have a lot of expertise on the Haldex units.
Hi Please tell me where you fixed that differential I have problems with my xc90 r design Clunk Noise Under Car When Reversing Or Braking- Creak Bang Now it's bad
How long did you drive the vehicle with the diff noise before finally replacing it? Mine is starting to make the same noise and I'm wondering how much time I have. Would rather not do the job in the middle of winter in Iowa.
Do you think it would have been possible to separate the Haldex unit from the differential and as such avoid having to take the propeller shaft off the Haldex unit?
Yeah it would have saved a lot of time and pain if you had lowered the subframe first, then unbolted the diff from the haldex unit and left it in place.
Sorry if it's a silly question, but was your gas tank above the joint you angle grinded? Did you take any precautions with regard to the sparks? I may have to do this on my V70 XC if I can't get the prop shaft out of the Halidex, but the gas tank right next to it spooks me. Thanks for making this. Like you said, it's basically all there is out there.
Sorry for the late reply. The tank was higher up and a bit further back if I can remember correctly. When I was cutting I made sure the sparks were going away from the car either downwards or out the side. I only had to get a deep enough groove to get a flat head screwdriver in. Hope that helps and good luck if you still have to get it done.
Hi! Did the noise go away after the diff rebuild? Hopefully yes as sometimes its hard to diagnose rear end noises. I have an 07 xc90 awd and at 180k miles no noises yet from the rear fortunately
Yes the noise completely went away. Previously I changed all the wheel bearings as I thought it was that. The noise was still there and was getting worse so I knew it had to be the diff. I booked it into a Volvo specialist who put it up on a ramp and confirmed that to be the case. Only then did I go ahead with doing the work.
Whining/droning noise on deceleration between 20-60mph then as it got worse with vibration on deceleration too. Done a vid at the time but hard to pick up the sound. ruclips.net/video/5S_MOH8MPJE/видео.html
I ain’t going to lie….,
That clamp idea was smart as hell bro
I’m fighting with this for 3 weeks now can’t believe it that easy
Thanks for the great comment.. Really glad it helped you out 👍
There’s two holes on the back off the flange, they are there for u to put something into and then use a punch and hammer, this will separate the prop from the flange,
Excellent video. I don’t even have this vehicle but stumbled upon your video looking for something else, and ended up watching the whole thing. You’ve got patience! Nice work.
Many thanks. I must have been mad to take that on 😂
@@skintgenius2104 😁👍🏼
@@skintgenius2104 hello , I have a xc90 2010 106K miles on dash, and I can hear noises in the back when accelerating and deceleration , silly question I have , how long can this last until the diff is gonna give up? Or I shouldn’t drive it until fix? Thanks
@@sorinmihai9405 Hi, with anything like this the sooner the better really. I done a few thousand miles on mine as I originally thought it was the wheel bearing. The noise will get worse the longer you leave it and I think I read somewhere that it could damage other components like the gearbox if left to long.
@@skintgenius2104 thanks for the advice, my mechanic says it’s better to get a back subframe with diff from a use one do u think it’s better or rebuilt my diff? Thanks
The pipe clamp and pry bit was genius, my pinion doesn't have threaded holes to press the flanges apart and they were so siezed together I was worried I would damage them beating them apart like seen on other videos but clamp and pry was brilliant worked great thanks.
Glad the video helped out 👍
I´m doing this job on my XC90 at the moment. I had a lot of help looking at this clip. I will change the bearings and seals and it should be as new. Thanks for the great video!
Well done, it's not a job for the faint hearted that's for sure. Glad the video helped you out 👍
about to do the same sort of thing with my 2010 XC60 T6. Probably sourcing all the Timkin or SKF bearings and such then having the local shop do a rebuild. For anyone who doesn't know, Landrover LR2 or other models shared the same exact rear diff.
thanks. the clamps are nice advice
Not an easy job mate, well done 👏
Great video, thanks for taking the time to put it together. I know first hand that dragging the camera under the car is not really convenient or pleasant. I’m doing the same job on my xc70 and am having the same challenge getting the prop shaft to come away from the viscous coupler. I need to drop my subframe by a few inches to replace a couple of bushings and I don’t think the prop shaft will permit sufficient downward movement hence the need to extract from the VC.
Thanks for the kind comment. It sure was a big job. Disconnecting the prop shaft was the most time consuming part for me. Some people have better luck and can get it apart quite easily. Good luck with yours and hope this vid can help you out some. 👍
Hey, I'm in the same boat. Just curious how you managed to dislodged yoursand if you have any advice. Thanks
David Jackson I ended up taking an air chisel to it. I started by hitting the prop shaft dead on vertically from below until I had made a notch. Once the notch formed I was able to angle the chisel at 45deg to generate some forward hammering motion. I did that then rotated the shaft and repeated. It took a while but it finally gave.
Идея хорошая, буду иметь в виду 😊
I'm surprized by these diffs failing after such a relatively short time. My 30-year-old MB has never had a problem, I also have friends with MBs from the 60s and 70s, never had a diff problem.
Gracias por el video a mi me ayudo mucho gracias
Fantastic Video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Glad it helped out.
Really good clear video but I could feel your pain, plus at 58 I’m getting a bit to old and feeble to do jobs this big although I love doing it.
It was a challenge for sure. I start these things and think what the hell am I doing, I must be mad. But when it all comes together it's well worth it.
Nice work
Wow. Knowing all these volvo issues! I'd suggest changing that rear oil often, like every 10,000 miles. My brother has this problem on his 2011 xc90. Scary 😱 🤮
That looks like a load of grief. Interesting that the FL2 has the same diff. Early models of those are notorious for whining diffs (pre 2011). Land Rover say its to do with their terrain response system putting too much torque on the bearing during acceleration. There is an upgraded bearing available, but as they're all older now most owners just opt for a rebuilt diff. Bell Engineering are the recognised UK experts on Freelanders, having fixed many. They also have a lot of expertise on the Haldex units.
Hi
Please tell me where you fixed that differential
I have problems with my xc90 r design
Clunk Noise Under Car When Reversing Or Braking- Creak Bang
Now it's bad
Internet is down at my Volvo dealership so here I am 💀
Can you please tell me, if the bolt with the visible copper washer is the fill plug and the one at bottom right is the drain plug?
well done
Thanks..
How long did you drive the vehicle with the diff noise before finally replacing it? Mine is starting to make the same noise and I'm wondering how much time I have. Would rather not do the job in the middle of winter in Iowa.
Around 10 months or roughly 7k miles. It got to a point where the noise was quite bad and it was vibrating through the car.
@@skintgenius2104 gotcha. Thanks for the info and the fantastic how-to video
Do you think it would have been possible to separate the Haldex unit from the differential and as such avoid having to take the propeller shaft off the Haldex unit?
Yeah it would have saved a lot of time and pain if you had lowered the subframe first, then unbolted the diff from the haldex unit and left it in place.
What did it cost you to have this differential overhauled? Just the cost of the service that did the actual differential work for you please.
It was around £500 on an exchange basis.
Sorry if it's a silly question, but was your gas tank above the joint you angle grinded? Did you take any precautions with regard to the sparks? I may have to do this on my V70 XC if I can't get the prop shaft out of the Halidex, but the gas tank right next to it spooks me. Thanks for making this. Like you said, it's basically all there is out there.
Sorry for the late reply. The tank was higher up and a bit further back if I can remember correctly. When I was cutting I made sure the sparks were going away from the car either downwards or out the side. I only had to get a deep enough groove to get a flat head screwdriver in. Hope that helps and good luck if you still have to get it done.
Use a slide hammer to pull driveshaft.
Hi! Did the noise go away after the diff rebuild? Hopefully yes as sometimes its hard to diagnose rear end noises. I have an 07 xc90 awd and at 180k miles no noises yet from the rear fortunately
Yes the noise completely went away. Previously I changed all the wheel bearings as I thought it was that. The noise was still there and was getting worse so I knew it had to be the diff. I booked it into a Volvo specialist who put it up on a ramp and confirmed that to be the case. Only then did I go ahead with doing the work.
What sort of symptoms have you had with rear diff?
Whining/droning noise on deceleration between 20-60mph then as it got worse with vibration on deceleration too. Done a vid at the time but hard to pick up the sound. ruclips.net/video/5S_MOH8MPJE/видео.html
Rear CV joint is non replaceable...