@@YannCamusBlissClimbing yes that makes perfect sense - I was just pointing out in case others didn't spot the potential to loose a sling (much cheaper than loosing an escaper and your rope!) :)
I am wondering if a similar technique could be used to lower yourself in a sport crag when you fail a route and you want to avoid loosing a quick draw and/or a carabiner or a mallion . Instead of rapping you will place a mallion on the loop where you attach the rope do the usual maneuver and ask your belayer to lower. Thoughts?
(First of all sorry for my little english) The tecnique is well thinked, congratulations and thank you for sharing. But my experience in canyoning tell me that slings can be stuck in the case you want to round a tree. With the recovering, a sling that is a circle, can be stuck with parts of the tree. I think that is better to use a single 6mm/7mm cordelette with knots in the ends, this mounting is surprisely less probable that be stuked also having knots. I hope can be well splained because is dificult to me doing in english, My intentions are not to do a bad critication, my intentions are positive to share and grew all. Thank you for the vid
That makes sense!! 7mm cord with figure eight loops at each end is a great idea! The role of the thin cord in the vid is to break if it gets stuck. So you lose a sling if it gets stuck but you recover the Escaper to continue your trip! Makes sense??
Interesting technique, definitely a last resort sort of method. Wouldn’t the sewn sling be worn down by the friction when the beal escaper is being released? What if we were to tie an extra length of rope to the beal escaper, lenghtening the blue rope that goes in the kriss-crossed finger trap. That would allow us to wrap the beal escaper around a tree and then retrieve it (my only concern with this is that the rope we use to extend the escaper might not be as good in the finger trap as the blue one made for this, could be interesting to test)
I don't think it will wear super fast but yes it will to some degree. Someone has long term experience to share? Much less damage than using the Texas trick: ruclips.net/video/AkZKaSX6N1M/видео.html . As for the extension you mention, look at my "standard" video about the Beal Escaper here: ruclips.net/video/0iQXDxpJ0h0/видео.html
So, this basically combines the sketchiness of beal escaper with the sketchiness of texas rope trick. Still a cool trick, although I wouldn't do it if I can help it.
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing I'm sure it works at getting you down, it's the rate of descend that I have some concerns about. But jokes aside, I think this is a cool trick. Beal escaper is rated, this is what it's for, it can't be that sketchy. On the other hand, combining some unrelated emergency while being on escaper, and, say, being forced to jug up the rope, that would be scary.. The texas rope trick, I wouldn't put slings through bolts unless I really have to. It's a way to get down if things go wrong, but I won't make it a part of my when-thing-go-well plan. Rapping both strands on two bolts is the standard way to get down. I think the escaper is mostly meant for bailing off a single bolt if one can't finish the climb, not as a regular daily driver. And the texas rope trick is just a poor man's beal escaper which has the advantage that it can be put on two bolts, but reduces the length of your rope by 2/3. If you combine those two, you can use full length of the rope and you can get down from two bolts. That's great, but you're also combining the risks of both of those. Again, great trick, I'll remember it, but I'll only keep it in the when-things-go-very-wrong skillset.
@@therflash loved the joke!! Thanks for the exchange! By the way I used it 2 days ago because I was showing to a student… Not something I do often in my personal practice. I prefer a good old blocked rappel (all with safe at least « half / double » ropes or more dangerously a 4mm tag line from accessory cord)
@@therflash LOL no way!!! Rappel on 60m of single rope (8.5-9.9mm rope) that is blocked (safely 100%). Then install a pull cord of 4mm X 60m just to retrieve the single. It comes with a high cost if the system gets jammed and you have only the 4mm in hand… Makes sense??
Probably fine on bolts, but that inward pull on the anchors from the ‘American death triangle’ setup is probably not the best. I’d be tempted to use a longer sling and pull the middle down to meet the ends to create something more akin to a standard, self-equalising, anchor. From what I can tell it would still pull through fine, would just create a more consistent pull on the anchors.
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Oh wow, high praise indeed :) Having handled the device, do you think it’d still pull smoothly or would it have more chance of binding up?
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This way it's still possible to do naked threads on ice with escaper! Great! Thank you Yann!
Oh! 🤩🤩🤩 This is a great idea!! I wish I mentionned this!! Thanks for your contribution 🙂
Stas from the Canadian Boyz?
Good tip
Thanks Ryan :-)
Yann Thank you very much.
You are welcome :-)
Yann that's awesome!! Many thanks for sharing this top tip!!
You are welcome!!
Excellent update!
Thanks!
I like the idea though there is a good chance the sling will/could hook and catch on things on the way down - something to be aware of
Good point!! That is the reason to attach with a 2mm or 3mm to be able to break it by pulling hard. Makes sense?
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing yes that makes perfect sense - I was just pointing out in case others didn't spot the potential to loose a sling (much cheaper than loosing an escaper and your rope!) :)
I am wondering if a similar technique could be used to lower yourself in a sport crag when you fail a route and you want to avoid loosing a quick draw and/or a carabiner or a mallion . Instead of rapping you will place a mallion on the loop where you attach the rope do the usual maneuver and ask your belayer to lower. Thoughts?
(First of all sorry for my little english) The tecnique is well thinked, congratulations and thank you for sharing. But my experience in canyoning tell me that slings can be stuck in the case you want to round a tree. With the recovering, a sling that is a circle, can be stuck with parts of the tree. I think that is better to use a single 6mm/7mm cordelette with knots in the ends, this mounting is surprisely less probable that be stuked also having knots.
I hope can be well splained because is dificult to me doing in english, My intentions are not to do a bad critication, my intentions are positive to share and grew all. Thank you for the vid
That makes sense!! 7mm cord with figure eight loops at each end is a great idea! The role of the thin cord in the vid is to break if it gets stuck. So you lose a sling if it gets stuck but you recover the Escaper to continue your trip! Makes sense??
Nice tip!
Thanks for leaving a comment!!
Interesting technique, definitely a last resort sort of method. Wouldn’t the sewn sling be worn down by the friction when the beal escaper is being released?
What if we were to tie an extra length of rope to the beal escaper, lenghtening the blue rope that goes in the kriss-crossed finger trap. That would allow us to wrap the beal escaper around a tree and then retrieve it (my only concern with this is that the rope we use to extend the escaper might not be as good in the finger trap as the blue one made for this, could be interesting to test)
I don't think it will wear super fast but yes it will to some degree. Someone has long term experience to share? Much less damage than using the Texas trick: ruclips.net/video/AkZKaSX6N1M/видео.html . As for the extension you mention, look at my "standard" video about the Beal Escaper here: ruclips.net/video/0iQXDxpJ0h0/видео.html
So, this basically combines the sketchiness of beal escaper with the sketchiness of texas rope trick. Still a cool trick, although I wouldn't do it if I can help it.
@@therflash I used it again 2 days ago and it worked again!! Not for the faint of heart or the beginner.
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing I'm sure it works at getting you down, it's the rate of descend that I have some concerns about.
But jokes aside, I think this is a cool trick. Beal escaper is rated, this is what it's for, it can't be that sketchy.
On the other hand, combining some unrelated emergency while being on escaper, and, say, being forced to jug up the rope, that would be scary..
The texas rope trick, I wouldn't put slings through bolts unless I really have to. It's a way to get down if things go wrong, but I won't make it a part of my when-thing-go-well plan.
Rapping both strands on two bolts is the standard way to get down. I think the escaper is mostly meant for bailing off a single bolt if one can't finish the climb, not as a regular daily driver.
And the texas rope trick is just a poor man's beal escaper which has the advantage that it can be put on two bolts, but reduces the length of your rope by 2/3.
If you combine those two, you can use full length of the rope and you can get down from two bolts. That's great, but you're also combining the risks of both of those.
Again, great trick, I'll remember it, but I'll only keep it in the when-things-go-very-wrong skillset.
@@therflash loved the joke!! Thanks for the exchange! By the way I used it 2 days ago because I was showing to a student… Not something I do often in my personal practice. I prefer a good old blocked rappel (all with safe at least « half / double » ropes or more dangerously a 4mm tag line from accessory cord)
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing rapping on a 4mm tag line? Really?
@@therflash LOL no way!!! Rappel on 60m of single rope (8.5-9.9mm rope) that is blocked (safely 100%). Then install a pull cord of 4mm X 60m just to retrieve the single. It comes with a high cost if the system gets jammed and you have only the 4mm in hand… Makes sense??
Probably fine on bolts, but that inward pull on the anchors from the ‘American death triangle’ setup is probably not the best. I’d be tempted to use a longer sling and pull the middle down to meet the ends to create something more akin to a standard, self-equalising, anchor. From what I can tell it would still pull through fine, would just create a more consistent pull on the anchors.
Good point! Good idea!
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Oh wow, high praise indeed :) Having handled the device, do you think it’d still pull smoothly or would it have more chance of binding up?
@@someoneelse1904 Someone has to test it but I don’t see why it would be a problem!!