Thanks for the video on the beal escaper! I was surprised about the use of the simple sheet bend for connecting the rope to the escaper. That is because in our rescue course we are only allowed to use the double sheet bent, finished with a double stopper knot (the yosemithe finish is not known here in Belgium). The simple sheet bend without stopper knot is only allowed for pulling up extra gear or ropes. But that's a rescue course. The standards are more severe of course.
I think this is a technically sound advice. I still believe the sheet bend with yo finish is ok with the escaper. I would love to read other people. Try it and you will see it cinches very well. I will try to find the testing of the sheet bend with yo finish. I think pull tests were showing the knot to be strong. But for rescue: everything is at another level!! (LOL)
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing could it be possible the the simple sheet bend loosens before the escaper and thus you loose your escaper ? I suppose the yosemite finish prevents that from happening ?
@@TheFilip330 it might happen with other soft goods or with thinker / stiffer ropes. but with the escaper and my ropes, I never felt this was possible.
One thing to note while using Andy Kirpatrick's trick to extend the escaper. Make sure the "V" angle coming from your anchor is narrow. If you use a wide 'V', like going around a big object and keeping the escaper close to the object, it will slip very easily as your weight essentially pulls the trap apart. It's best to try and get the smallest v-angle you can manage in your given terrain. You can see this demonstrated easily if you set the escaper through both bolts on an anchor and then weight it ... it will slip off with not much effort.
In french we would call it "demi noeud de pecheur double" "half double fisherman knot". You got to love the "half double" concept. (Edit: the 1st stopper knot)
The rope connection knot should be a batten (or sheet) knot (in Ukrainian шкотовий вузол), the rope ending backup knot must be a barrel knot. Am I right? 🙂
@@jimpanse8763 The Escaper is a very fancy device made by Beal. It is a sketchy way of making a rappel but Beal has made it as safe as possible (until another company makes better). I don't advise you try to do the same putting gear together. It would certainly lack some of the safety features packed in the Beal Escaper. Does it answer your question?
The "pig tail" knot as you call it is a double overhand know (ABOK#516). The method shown for tying it is slightly different, but the outcome is the same
Incredible tool for what it is designed for: saving your life once. Without big shock load. With the ASAP’sorber it is designed to work with. For anything TRS or LRS related: do not use an ASAP. My 2 cents anyway. I broke an ASAP during TRS by the way.
@@MS-fg8qo could be a few things: is the rubber band worn out? It there too much friction between the pull location and the anchor location? Do you pull hard enough on the rope? Do you release 100% so the rope shoots out to the sky so that the wave of energy is enough when it reaches the escaper? Someone can think of another possible problem?
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Thanks for the video on the beal escaper!
I was surprised about the use of the simple sheet bend for connecting the rope to the escaper.
That is because in our rescue course we are only allowed to use the double sheet bent, finished with a double stopper knot (the yosemithe finish is not known here in Belgium).
The simple sheet bend without stopper knot is only allowed for pulling up extra gear or ropes.
But that's a rescue course. The standards are more severe of course.
I think this is a technically sound advice. I still believe the sheet bend with yo finish is ok with the escaper. I would love to read other people. Try it and you will see it cinches very well. I will try to find the testing of the sheet bend with yo finish. I think pull tests were showing the knot to be strong. But for rescue: everything is at another level!! (LOL)
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing could it be possible the the simple sheet bend loosens before the escaper and thus you loose your escaper ? I suppose the yosemite finish prevents that from happening ?
@@TheFilip330 it might happen with other soft goods or with thinker / stiffer ropes. but with the escaper and my ropes, I never felt this was possible.
One thing to note while using Andy Kirpatrick's trick to extend the escaper. Make sure the "V" angle coming from your anchor is narrow. If you use a wide 'V', like going around a big object and keeping the escaper close to the object, it will slip very easily as your weight essentially pulls the trap apart. It's best to try and get the smallest v-angle you can manage in your given terrain.
You can see this demonstrated easily if you set the escaper through both bolts on an anchor and then weight it ... it will slip off with not much effort.
Well explained! You can always put the escaper lower to reduce the "V" angle (ie. extend the escaper more...)
Love the tip on extending length of the escaper I wondered if something like that was possible thank you!
Glad to see you release another of your very helpful videos
I think it's called a sheet bend, it can also be doubled. En français : noeud de tisserand
Ou aussi "noeud d'écoute" qui ressemble plus à la traduction de sheet bend 😜
The knot at 3:30 is essentially a sheet bend
Thanks Colin! This is the only place I use it in my climbing. :-)
Great stuff as always
In french we would call it "demi noeud de pecheur double" "half double fisherman knot". You got to love the "half double" concept. (Edit: the 1st stopper knot)
« Demi noeud de pêcheur double » Wow 😮 Faut le faire!!
Buenísimo Yann!! Excelentes trucos para sacar partido al escaper. Muy útil llevar estás herramientas en el equipo y saber utilizarlas al máximo 💪😃🫶
Gracias! Has visto el nuevo truco de Beal? Beal Escaper - Pro Tip !!!
ruclips.net/video/uDM9AWw8i-o/видео.html
The rope connection knot should be a batten (or sheet) knot (in Ukrainian шкотовий вузол), the rope ending backup knot must be a barrel knot. Am I right? 🙂
A sheet bend knot is not the best in tests so I do a Yosemite finish (it locks the sheet bend). Rope end should be a barrel knot yes.
The BIG problem is always "the shape of the cliff" 😂 keep on the good work Yann
😂 everything is summed up right there!!! Thanks for this comment, it makes my day 😂
Hello, can you tell me more about this chinese prusik knot in this video? Best regards and stay safe.
ruclips.net/video/fYI36CVar_8/видео.html
Thx a lot for the fast reply. So I'm not able to do that with a usual sling right? It's a sling made by beal for that?
@@jimpanse8763 The Escaper is a very fancy device made by Beal. It is a sketchy way of making a rappel but Beal has made it as safe as possible (until another company makes better). I don't advise you try to do the same putting gear together. It would certainly lack some of the safety features packed in the Beal Escaper. Does it answer your question?
The "pig tail" knot as you call it is a double overhand know (ABOK#516). The method shown for tying it is slightly different, but the outcome is the same
YES! Thanks! This is simple: "double overhand knot".
Can you please tell me your opinion about Petzl ASAP or ASAP LOCK please?
Incredible tool for what it is designed for: saving your life once. Without big shock load. With the ASAP’sorber it is designed to work with. For anything TRS or LRS related: do not use an ASAP. My 2 cents anyway. I broke an ASAP during TRS by the way.
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Thank you very much for the advice.
Hmmm...nice idea. I'd just link the two bolts with a piece of cord. Then thread the Escaper through the maillon at one bolt and off I go.
So you leave the piece of cord behind?
Why doesbit take a hundred + pulls for me to release that damn thing?
@@MS-fg8qo could be a few things: is the rubber band worn out? It there too much friction between the pull location and the anchor location? Do you pull hard enough on the rope? Do you release 100% so the rope shoots out to the sky so that the wave of energy is enough when it reaches the escaper? Someone can think of another possible problem?
Good beta!
Thanks!!
sheet bend, not a great knot
hownot2 did a test on it and it slipped really low, like 5kn or maybe 4 kn
@@JoBianco Exactly. Hence the Yosemite finish... Note that 4kN would never be reached in a rappel with a single person. But no chance to take!!