Thanks for doing this Yann! Love your videos, and your courses changed my top rope Solo, and Lead Rope Solo game. I’m much more confident in my systems now.
Thanks for the comment! I had the chance to look at Andy Kirkpatrick's book "Down" and there are 2 ways you can use the Escaper in an "Expert" mode. Very interesting!
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing I’ll check that out! I like using it while canyoneering instead of rigging a block every time I can just use a shorter(lighter) rope & accomplish my route. The channel How not to highline gave your channel a shout out in their video today, that’s how I found you. Excellent content, really appreciate it, subscribed!
Great Video, Yann. May I suggest one thing though. The red text that you add to your video with a black background is very difficult to read, if not impossible ;)
Yann Camus BlissClimbing Bon travail Eve-Marie, car c’est vraiment difficile à lire avec le format rouge sur le pourtour et noir en dedans, si tu mettais blanc dans le centre des lettres ce serait plus facile à lire.
Walter Siebert from the Rope Test Lab Group on FaceBook aptly pointed me that the rope has bore chances to snag in cracks, and behind flakes and trees because of the knot. This is CERTAINLY something to think about when using the Beal Escaper!! Also I discovered 2 "expert" ways of using the Escaper thanks to Andy Kirkpatrick's book "Down"
Wouldn't joining and equalising the 2 glue-ins with a sling and abseiling from the masterpoint be a better option than the "sketchy" choose one bolt option? Better to lose a sling than take the risk surely?
Would love to see effect of the friction system with a "bouncy" rappel. I.E. full load to partial load back and forth. How far does rope move through the escaper, and at what #of wraps of the escaper combined with load does it start to slip?
Beal says that you need to keep 10kg at all times during the rappel. The 10kg should be enough to make the Beal Escaper "fixed". Does that answer your question?
I've really liked using a double sheet bend with a becket finish or with a double overhand backup instead of a fig-8 or bowline. IMO it's a bit less bulky and therefore less likely to get caught up somewhere
Can you comment a link showing the exact knot you mean? I read: "the sheet bend was always a bottom performer and the double sheet bend did little better". I would like to see your becket finish! Thanks!
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing P20-21: www.matieres.fr/images/formation_cordiste/guide-noeud-amarrage-cordiste.pdf My own testing: www.evernote.com/l/AHIriUnuR4xJBZILOn8zc0clHHc1-IvhW8U Sar FB page: facebook.com/243527545784863/photos/application-of-becket-bends-as-used-to-form-a-blitz-anchor-this-non-directional-/995959253875018/
@@jeremiahbauman7229 Wow truly rich information right here! Thanks for sharing!!! What you call "double overhand backup" is a "barrel knot". Right? www.google.com/search?q=barrel+knot
You have seen that elsewhere?? Please get me a link of this technique without the escaper! I'd be very interested in learning a new way of doing this! By the way the VT has 14 stiches or something so not possible to improvise the exact same thing without a sewing machine.
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing haha You would be surprised what you can do by hand. I have made by hand something very similar. Granted I never rappelled off it unattended. Also I didn't stitch every crossing of the valdotain tresse. I did hand stitch the bungie and made a knee ascender. I ended up changing it because of too much sit back, otherwise I could show it to you.
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing It's worth noting that those stitches are not life supporting. They are there to maintain its form while the rope is not running through it. And probably to help idiots from threading incorrectly. Of course ALWAYS practice low and slow. And know your gear before playing or working at height.
Good question. Some situations call for not using this system. You have to make your own risk assessment each time you do a rappel. Quickly, I would say: 1- I don't know how it does in the wet. Needs testing. 2- if the rope goes in a crack: could jam your rope when retrieving AND could cause too much friction for the Escaper to move up and down freely and release. 3- other situations I am sure, PLEASE PEOPLE COMMENT others you think about!!!! Thanks!
I had a 9mm Type B semi static rope (Tendon) and it worked like a charm. You don't need a lot of stretch to make the Beal Escaper release. The load on the Beal Escaper has to drop to single digit kg in order to slide. I would be more concerned if you had a very heavy rope. Like 16mm x 70m for example. Biggest rope I tried is 10.2mm x 70m and it still worked like a charm.
yes it can be used even with a "static" rap-line. I replaced the bungee on my Escaper with a more powerful one so it can pull up even heavier ropes if needed (or if there is more friction..)
I initially used the Petzl Ring Open to get a kind of belay loop but shorter than the belay loop. This is very useful for some TRS and LRS uses (Top Rope Solo and Lead Rope Solo). But then I like to keep things simple and streamlined. I found that the only devices that worked better with the belay loop were the Trango Vergo and Cinch. Since I don't use them much, I decided to get rid of the belay loop. I have been using this harness for TRS, LRS and Big Walls with partners and I LOVE the ring open. I don't regret it. It is Bomber. Does that answer your question?
Yann Camus BlissClimbing I’ve had them for about a month or so. I find them very convenient both when LRS and when just normal climbing. I like clipping my prusik on one and my lanyard on another. Gives a lot of flexibility. And when soloing I like the redundancy
I initially used the Petzl Ring Open to get a kind of belay loop but shorter than the belay loop. This is very useful for some TRS and LRS uses (Top Rope Solo and Lead Rope Solo). But then I like to keep things simple and streamlined. I found that the only devices that worked better with the belay loop were the Trango Vergo and Cinch. Since I don't use them much, I decided to get rid of the belay loop. I have been using this harness for TRS, LRS and Big Walls with partners and I LOVE the ring open. I don't regret it. It is Bomber.
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Yann, thanks for that detailed answer. I had never heard of this bit of hardware before, looks pretty interesting for certain niche applications.
I use it for rappel. BE unlocks after 19-23 turns. Nice device for making my stuff lighter.
Thanks for doing this Yann! Love your videos, and your courses changed my top rope Solo, and Lead Rope Solo game. I’m much more confident in my systems now.
So good to hear! Thanks for sharing your experience!
Love my escaper. Definitely use it for more than just emergencies. Great video!
Thanks for the comment! I had the chance to look at Andy Kirkpatrick's book "Down" and there are 2 ways you can use the Escaper in an "Expert" mode. Very interesting!
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing I’ll check that out! I like using it while canyoneering instead of rigging a block every time I can just use a shorter(lighter) rope & accomplish my route. The channel How not to highline gave your channel a shout out in their video today, that’s how I found you. Excellent content, really appreciate it, subscribed!
@@AZDesertExplorer Thanks for the hint! Ryan of How Not To Highline is very supportive of me. His contribution to the community is LARGE :-)
Never saw this device before, thank you for the vey good content! I might purchase it soon.
Highly recommended! It gets me out of trouble often (I tend to get myself into trouble sometimes!)...
Comme à l'habitude, très bon vidéo et instructif!
Merci mon ami :-) Bonjour à toute la famille!
Great Video, Yann. May I suggest one thing though. The red text that you add to your video with a black background is very difficult to read, if not impossible ;)
Thanks Michael!! I will ask some help from my wife: she is the art editor for the channel ;-)
Yann Camus BlissClimbing Bon travail Eve-Marie, car c’est vraiment difficile à lire avec le format rouge sur le pourtour et noir en dedans, si tu mettais blanc dans le centre des lettres ce serait plus facile à lire.
@@andesj Oui merci pour le commentaire André! Gros bisous :-)
Walter Siebert from the Rope Test Lab Group on FaceBook aptly pointed me that the rope has bore chances to snag in cracks, and behind flakes and trees because of the knot. This is CERTAINLY something to think about when using the Beal Escaper!! Also I discovered 2 "expert" ways of using the Escaper thanks to Andy Kirkpatrick's book "Down"
The friction knot is called a chinese finger trap
@@feelinghealingfrequences7179 LOL: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinese_finger_trap
Wouldn't joining and equalising the 2 glue-ins with a sling and abseiling from the masterpoint be a better option than the "sketchy" choose one bolt option? Better to lose a sling than take the risk surely?
Absolutely! But I use it rather often...
Would love to see effect of the friction system with a "bouncy" rappel. I.E. full load to partial load back and forth. How far does rope move through the escaper, and at what #of wraps of the escaper combined with load does it start to slip?
Beal says that you need to keep 10kg at all times during the rappel. The 10kg should be enough to make the Beal Escaper "fixed". Does that answer your question?
I've really liked using a double sheet bend with a becket finish or with a double overhand backup instead of a fig-8 or bowline. IMO it's a bit less bulky and therefore less likely to get caught up somewhere
Can you comment a link showing the exact knot you mean? I read: "the sheet bend was always a bottom performer and the double sheet bend did little better". I would like to see your becket finish! Thanks!
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing
P20-21: www.matieres.fr/images/formation_cordiste/guide-noeud-amarrage-cordiste.pdf
My own testing: www.evernote.com/l/AHIriUnuR4xJBZILOn8zc0clHHc1-IvhW8U
Sar FB page: facebook.com/243527545784863/photos/application-of-becket-bends-as-used-to-form-a-blitz-anchor-this-non-directional-/995959253875018/
@@jeremiahbauman7229 Wow truly rich information right here! Thanks for sharing!!! What you call "double overhand backup" is a "barrel knot". Right? www.google.com/search?q=barrel+knot
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Yes, those terms are generally synonymous.
It's a VT with a bungie, not exactly new. But looks convenient.
You have seen that elsewhere?? Please get me a link of this technique without the escaper! I'd be very interested in learning a new way of doing this! By the way the VT has 14 stiches or something so not possible to improvise the exact same thing without a sewing machine.
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing haha You would be surprised what you can do by hand. I have made by hand something very similar. Granted I never rappelled off it unattended. Also I didn't stitch every crossing of the valdotain tresse. I did hand stitch the bungie and made a knee ascender. I ended up changing it because of too much sit back, otherwise I could show it to you.
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing It's worth noting that those stitches are not life supporting. They are there to maintain its form while the rope is not running through it. And probably to help idiots from threading incorrectly. Of course ALWAYS practice low and slow. And know your gear before playing or working at height.
Hi Yann! What kind of situations/rappels are not recommended with this system?
Good question. Some situations call for not using this system. You have to make your own risk assessment each time you do a rappel. Quickly, I would say: 1- I don't know how it does in the wet. Needs testing. 2- if the rope goes in a crack: could jam your rope when retrieving AND could cause too much friction for the Escaper to move up and down freely and release. 3- other situations I am sure, PLEASE PEOPLE COMMENT others you think about!!!! Thanks!
This is a cool concept but I could never see myself using this.
Can it be used with a semi static rope ?
Thanks for asking that I am curious also.
I had a 9mm Type B semi static rope (Tendon) and it worked like a charm. You don't need a lot of stretch to make the Beal Escaper release. The load on the Beal Escaper has to drop to single digit kg in order to slide. I would be more concerned if you had a very heavy rope. Like 16mm x 70m for example. Biggest rope I tried is 10.2mm x 70m and it still worked like a charm.
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Coolio, thanks!
@@johngo6283 You are welcome!!
yes it can be used even with a "static" rap-line.
I replaced the bungee on my Escaper with a more powerful one so it can pull up even heavier ropes if needed (or if there is more friction..)
Why did you remove the textile belay loop from your harness? :O
I initially used the Petzl Ring Open to get a kind of belay loop but shorter than the belay loop. This is very useful for some TRS and LRS uses (Top Rope Solo and Lead Rope Solo). But then I like to keep things simple and streamlined. I found that the only devices that worked better with the belay loop were the Trango Vergo and Cinch. Since I don't use them much, I decided to get rid of the belay loop. I have been using this harness for TRS, LRS and Big Walls with partners and I LOVE the ring open. I don't regret it. It is Bomber. Does that answer your question?
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing makes perfect sense! thanks. i currently have both the ring and normal belay loop so i was curious about your choice.
@@BowlineDandy How long have you had both? Do you think of getting rid of one sometimes? Does the ring annoy you sometimes? Thanks!
Yann Camus BlissClimbing I’ve had them for about a month or so. I find them very convenient both when LRS and when just normal climbing. I like clipping my prusik on one and my lanyard on another. Gives a lot of flexibility. And when soloing I like the redundancy
why you cut your belay loop?
I initially used the Petzl Ring Open to get a kind of belay loop but shorter than the belay loop. This is very useful for some TRS and LRS uses (Top Rope Solo and Lead Rope Solo). But then I like to keep things simple and streamlined. I found that the only devices that worked better with the belay loop were the Trango Vergo and Cinch. Since I don't use them much, I decided to get rid of the belay loop. I have been using this harness for TRS, LRS and Big Walls with partners and I LOVE the ring open. I don't regret it. It is Bomber.
I am wondering about that too! Is that a metal ring on your harness?
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Yann, thanks for that detailed answer. I had never heard of this bit of hardware before, looks pretty interesting for certain niche applications.
@@johngo6283 You are welcome!
@@alpinesavvy714 This is the ring: ruclips.net/video/ZBJah2H52dQ/видео.html and here: www.petzl.com/US/en/Professional/Harnesses/RING-OPEN
VT
It is actually just the Tresse part of the "Valdôtain Tresse (VT)" LOL . But yes essentially a VT...