Dude I never seen a mechanic change shocks that fast it took you about 30minutes. I had a 14 MKZ both shocks cost me $1870 at the Lincoln dealership. Much respect to you bro.
Thank you for your video! My experience with a clunky rear shock absorber on a 2016 Lincoln MKZ (Hybrid): First attempt: Tried tightening the shock absorber rod nut, but it didn't turn much and didn't resolve the sound. Second attempt: Applied some penetrating oil and let it sit for a couple of hours. This time, without even holding the tip of the shock absorber rod, I could turn the nut with a 15 mm wrench for almost a full turn. I stopped tightening when the rod began to rotate with the nut. This resulted in more torque than the specified 22 lb.ft (possibly around 50 lb.ft). On a short test drive over a pothole, one of the shock rod ends broke off above the mount. It was clear that I had over-torqued the nut, causing the rod to reach tensile yield strength. I ended up ordering OEM Motorcraft shocks and Dorman shock mounts from RockAuto. Inspecting the old shock mounts, I didn't notice any obvious damage, but I replaced them regardless. This resolved the clunky noise issue. I didn’t remove the height sensors, and they weren't in the way. Additionally, I didn’t run the “Ride Height Calibration.” The car seems to drive fine. You might want to measure the height before and after to determine if a calibration is necessary.
Especially if you live in the rust belt, should replace those shock mounts as well. I had the "clunk" noise as well from the left rear. Friendly reminder for people.... if you order the Motorcraft shock, order a new nut as well since they don't come with one.
super helpful man! thanks so much! Recently replaced the PTU on 3.7L AWD model with a 600-234xd which amazon/ebay/autozone all said wouldn't fit but it did! Now the PTU has a heat shield and serviceable drain/fill plugs!
I have 2018 lincoln mkz hybrid i need to change rear control arm just quick question is there is difference in control arm between lincoln mkz gas and hybrid
Kindly drop the link to your specific MKZ video you are referring to. I saw the 2010 mkz on your channel but not the 2013 -2016 version Joel was working on.
I'm pretty good with needle-nose pliers. I'm going to fix my dad's shocks is there any calibration? I see everybody asking but nobody's giving up the information.
The only calibration would be this "Calibrate the suspension system. Connect the scan tool and carry out the Ride Height Calibration routine. Follow the scan tool directions." I haven't had an issue, I didn't do the calibration after doing the shocks and struts on this vehicle. I will be doing lower front control arms soon and now that I have the OEM scantool I will run the calibration.
Hello all! I replaced a failing shock on my 2013 MKZ driver side rear. I took it for a test drive and it was almost all but fixed.....due to a slight sound when hitting a bump, but felt it was probably coming from the right side shock which may need to be replaced but like I said almost no noise.....much improved. Flash forward a few months the right side still needs no replacement and the left side( which was replaced) sounds just as bad when the shock was failing but it’s still fine. Ideas?
Its it's bad enough for the mount to go bad, chances are the shock did as well. The sound of it is mostly what will help you tell. If it's a clunk that happens over all kinda of surface changes and bumps, probably the mount and shock. If it only happens slow speed.. I.e. pulling in and out of the driveway, could be sway bar links. If it's a clunk that sometimes happen when speeding up from a stop or slowing down to one, could be different though. If you have the tools I can give you some ways of a couple things, but the sound is a most helpful diagnostic
@@joeldufkis Awesome, thanks a ton. I"m being told we need to replace rear shocks and mounting hardware (though I wonder if that's the dealer just not wanting to reuse old but still-good parts?) and front wheel bearings. Looking for a video on those now. Don't suppose you have one, since this video you did was so great, do you? :-) I've done wheel bearings on an old pickup truck before but I have no idea if things are different for a hybrid...
I have 2013 MKZ, having rattling noise coming from the truck area Sounds like something is loose, But I have seen When I did he check Hydraulic fluid that looks like it's coming From the rear shock, Is it the shock Or is this something loose in my truck
curtis coffey I’m having the same problem too with MKZ 2013 base noise from the trunk and when I hit on pot all sound so loud so have you get that solved I would like to get some idea too thanks
My 2013 MKZ Hybrid has 2 bad rear shocks. The car barely hit 60k miles. The hybrids fail faster, I believe, as they have more weight in the back and, combined with 19" wheels, it puts a lot of stress on the rear shocks. Ford didn't bother to make them heavy duty. On top of that, all 3 of my motor/transmission mounts are going bad. What a joke. I will never buy another Ford again.
Dude I never seen a mechanic change shocks that fast it took you about 30minutes. I had a 14 MKZ both shocks cost me $1870 at the Lincoln dealership. Much respect to you bro.
Okay more people need to include the socket sizes like you did. You're awesome, thank you
I just vlogged this same procedure for the mkZ but in my driveway. Thanks!
i watched yours 1st thanksful for both of these videos saved me a load of money
@@keymoniadams0104 I'm very happy to hear this mate. Thank you.
Does the mkz have the dynamic drive control sensors?
Thank you for your video!
My experience with a clunky rear shock absorber on a 2016 Lincoln MKZ (Hybrid):
First attempt: Tried tightening the shock absorber rod nut, but it didn't turn much and didn't resolve the sound.
Second attempt: Applied some penetrating oil and let it sit for a couple of hours. This time, without even holding the tip of the shock absorber rod, I could turn the nut with a 15 mm wrench for almost a full turn. I stopped tightening when the rod began to rotate with the nut. This resulted in more torque than the specified 22 lb.ft (possibly around 50 lb.ft). On a short test drive over a pothole, one of the shock rod ends broke off above the mount. It was clear that I had over-torqued the nut, causing the rod to reach tensile yield strength.
I ended up ordering OEM Motorcraft shocks and Dorman shock mounts from RockAuto. Inspecting the old shock mounts, I didn't notice any obvious damage, but I replaced them regardless. This resolved the clunky noise issue.
I didn’t remove the height sensors, and they weren't in the way. Additionally, I didn’t run the “Ride Height Calibration.” The car seems to drive fine. You might want to measure the height before and after to determine if a calibration is necessary.
Especially if you live in the rust belt, should replace those shock mounts as well. I had the "clunk" noise as well from the left rear. Friendly reminder for people.... if you order the Motorcraft shock, order a new nut as well since they don't come with one.
Thanks for the video. Still helpful years later.
super helpful man! thanks so much! Recently replaced the PTU on 3.7L AWD model with a 600-234xd which amazon/ebay/autozone all said wouldn't fit but it did! Now the PTU has a heat shield and serviceable drain/fill plugs!
Like the step by step approach. The dealer wanted to charge $1500 to change 2 rear shocks. Parts were about $400 saved $1100. Thanks
Ronald Gober where did you buy the rear shocks ??
Send the link to the shocks
@@juanmartinez7452 you can buy them on eBay. Jus type your car make and model in
Wow! I bought mine in 2023 for $200 for 2 Bilstein B4s which are amazing
Thanks for including the socket and wrench sizes, it REALLY helps
This is such an good video. Everything you need to know. Thanks!
Another great video.
Great video, very interesting and informative 📹 👍.
Hey man, is there a required "ride height calibration"?
Yes but you'll need access to a scantool that can run the calibration.
great video!
Thanks for doing such a good job
FYI: The Fusion Sport uses the Lincoln CCD system, so it will have the electrical connectors.
I have 2018 lincoln mkz hybrid i need to change rear control arm just quick question is there is difference in control arm between lincoln mkz gas and hybrid
Thanks man
What about the front? Can I use something else cheaper?
350$ per one !!
Get it from RockAuto.com
15 mm Upper Shock Mount Lock Bolt (Rear shock absorber rod nut) = 22 lb. ft / (30 Nm). Source: Shop manual. I will show this on my mkZ shock/coil vid.
Kindly drop the link to your specific MKZ video you are referring to. I saw the 2010 mkz on your channel but not the 2013 -2016 version Joel was working on.
@@emmijames358 Cheers. Here's the full mkZ Playlist. It includes both 1st and 2nd generation fixes: ruclips.net/p/PLSobJ3CJ_Tg10EcZiYbHrmt9qrYPR2E3d
Nice job explaining everything thx
Perfect video thank you
Dose this mean if I have ford fusion 2016 and I am looking for more confort suspension I can use Lincoln MRZ suspension ver?!
I'm pretty good with needle-nose pliers. I'm going to fix my dad's shocks is there any calibration? I see everybody asking but nobody's giving up the information.
The only calibration would be this "Calibrate the suspension system. Connect the scan tool and carry out the Ride Height Calibration routine. Follow the scan tool directions."
I haven't had an issue, I didn't do the calibration after doing the shocks and struts on this vehicle. I will be doing lower front control arms soon and now that I have the OEM scantool I will run the calibration.
Would I need to bring it into the dealership for ride height calibration, or would I be good to go without?
By any chance did you do the front struts yet? I need a video on that also and you did a great job.
I did the front struts but didn't film it unfortunately, didn't have the time for filming. It's pretty straight forward if you've done struts before
Great video! Does this procedure change for the 2019-2020 MKZ?
From looking at the service manual it does look like the same procedure.
@@joeldufkis Thanks Joel, this will come in handy.
Nice job
Thanks for the knowledge
So I don't need to remove the height sensor, therefore don't need to recalibrate ride height?
Looks like the upper bolts had Locktite on them (blue residue). How come you didn’t put any more on?
Ford thing. Damn near every nut and bolt on them has it
i have a 2015 mkz can i just put the fusion shocks on rear or will i get a warning light?? shocks are over 300 each
@@joeldufkis Yeah this is an insane price. Could you do a video for the replacement of front suspension? Or do you know of one for a 13 MKZ?
How well did it go, Michael?
You'll get a light
Hello all!
I replaced a failing shock on my 2013 MKZ driver side rear. I took it for a test drive and it was almost all but fixed.....due to a slight sound when hitting a bump, but felt it was probably coming from the right side shock which may need to be replaced but like I said almost no noise.....much improved.
Flash forward a few months the right side still needs no replacement and the left side( which was replaced) sounds just as bad when the shock was failing but it’s still fine.
Ideas?
Axle pairs ;) typically anything suspension or drivetrain related. Just like tires, axle pairs
Also. Did you replace your upper shock mount? Sound high? Almost an in the trunk almost swaybar-link-sounding?
@@gunners4129 this is how mine sounds, 2013 MKZ. Not sure if the whole shock is bad or just the mount
Its it's bad enough for the mount to go bad, chances are the shock did as well. The sound of it is mostly what will help you tell. If it's a clunk that happens over all kinda of surface changes and bumps, probably the mount and shock. If it only happens slow speed.. I.e. pulling in and out of the driveway, could be sway bar links. If it's a clunk that sometimes happen when speeding up from a stop or slowing down to one, could be different though.
If you have the tools I can give you some ways of a couple things, but the sound is a most helpful diagnostic
@@gunners4129 its over bigger bumps at all speeds only from the drivers side
Nice video! Did you have to set the car at riders height to add weight onto the shock before Torquing all the bolts? Or it dont matter in this case.
For the shock replacement, it won't matter. If he had to loosen control arm bolts, then it would matter.
Is this the same for 19" wheels?
Hello are the same rear suspensions for mkz 2.0 hybrid and 3.7 models?
Did you ever figure it out
@@hadtodoit23 they are different
How similar is this to replacing the rear shocks on my 2013 MKS.... I know that they are a different chassis.....
Is the procedure the same for the front
@@joeldufkis any instructions on that? thanks
My 06 civic still running on original shocks.
Any differences on the 2014 MKZ Hybrid? Not sure if the Hybrid bit would make a difference or not? Thanks in advance, awesome video!
@@joeldufkis Awesome, thanks a ton. I"m being told we need to replace rear shocks and mounting hardware (though I wonder if that's the dealer just not wanting to reuse old but still-good parts?) and front wheel bearings. Looking for a video on those now. Don't suppose you have one, since this video you did was so great, do you? :-) I've done wheel bearings on an old pickup truck before but I have no idea if things are different for a hybrid...
I just changed the shocks in my 14 MKZ and am now getting a drive control malfunction light. Any idea what would cause this?
I have 2013 MKZ, having rattling noise coming from the truck area Sounds like something is loose, But I have seen When I did he check Hydraulic fluid that looks like it's coming From the rear shock, Is it the shock Or is this something loose in my truck
Perhaps the upper rear shock mount needs replaced as well?
curtis coffey I’m having the same problem too with MKZ 2013 base noise from the trunk and when I hit on pot all sound so loud so have you get that solved I would like to get some idea too thanks
It’s your shocks they are leaking
It's probably the upper shock mount. It's under Struts on RockAuto.com
You forgot to use blue lock tight
Bolt Size & Torque Specs
-----------------------------------------
18 mm Upper Shock Bolts = 90 Nm / 66 ft/lbs
15 mm Lower Shock Bolts = 48 Nm / 35 ft/lbs
10 mm Ride Height Sensor Bolt = 20 Nm / 15 ft/lbs
15 mm Upper Shock Mount Lock Bolt = Tool Tight / No Torque Spec
15 mm Upper Shock Mount Lock Bolt (Rear shock absorber rod nut) = 22 lb. ft / (30 Nm). Source: Shop manual.
^^Alldata says the same thing
@@gunners4129 Cheers mate. I'll post my mkZ rear shock absorber replacement vid soon.
I hear clucking noise in the back when I hit a bump, I have a hybrid
Perhaps replace the upper mount?
Rear sway bar links
The rear end sit low
My 2013 MKZ Hybrid has 2 bad rear shocks. The car barely hit 60k miles. The hybrids fail faster, I believe, as they have more weight in the back and, combined with 19" wheels, it puts a lot of stress on the rear shocks. Ford didn't bother to make them heavy duty. On top of that, all 3 of my motor/transmission mounts are going bad. What a joke. I will never buy another Ford again.