Yeah, certainly a prudent move, if you get the rounded handy box there is usually grounding point which protrudes into the box a little so the grounding screw doesn’t stick past the back of the box, which is nice if you are wall mounting it.
Nathan Mitchell he saying the box itself is conductive and contains hot leads inside. If one of the leads came loose it could energize the box and make it a shock hazard. If the box is grounded it will trip the breaker if one of the leads were to contact the box.
Just did this myself on a 2hp (240v 12amp) dust collector and works great! Thanks. Clipped the remote to my carpenter apron, so much better for my set up. I hope it lasts long term so far it's been good! Update: upon further research this is a questionable set up for a 2hp motor. This switch is not capable of handling the high current at start up for 2hp and will eventually fail. The relay that is required should be able to handle 75amps. I will add in a relay rated for this motor and use the Amazon relay for the RF control. Update: I left this set up plugged in and the other day it turned on randomly. Scary if I was away. I would recomended disconnecting this set up when you are not in your shop.
Chris that extension cord is rated at 20 amps and you said the circuit for the dust collector is 30 amps. I hope your Dust Collector only draws a max of 20amps.
Dude thank you! Ordered it and two days later in 20 minutes done. Works great on my 220 wired dust collector. Thanks again and if you’re thinking about it do it you won’t be sorry.
I'm no electrician but, the black wire AND the white wire are HOT in a 220V AC cord. They would normally be called L1 and L2. The green wire is neural which is tied to ground at the breaker panel. You can verify this with a volt meter. You will see 120V between BOTH L1 and neutral/ground AND L2 and neutral/ground. The switching relay is a double pole so both hot leads are disconnected when switched off. As others have noted, be sure to ground the box. Cheers, F. C.
Unless you are doing 220 it is against the electric code on USA to break the white wire with a switch except on a gas pump, you should only put hot wire on remote and put wire nut on white wire the reason is so you always have a feturn connected even when switch is off
Perfect timing I'm rewiring my garage shop and will add this to the line I am running to my dust collector couldn't justify the price of the ones I'd seen Thanks
Outstanding video! I did this to replace a failing 220V dust collector remote system. An easy project for any Do-It-Yourselfer. Thanks for saving me a boat load of money. 😃
A few years back I did something similar (although unnecessarily more complicated) for tuning off a water pump when I was away from home. In that case I used a contactor for the 220 V and a 110 V home automation switch to trigger it automatically when I came or left.
I love the idea of using a box. However, since the box is made of metal, should the box itself be connected to the ground? If the hot wire ever touched the box you could be shocked right?
I have done the in my workshop but I would suggest you ad a relay and only use the remote unit to trigger the relay then you don't have the high current for the dust collect running through the remote system
Just stumbled upon your video and bought one of these right away. I had tried the big box store wireless plug and play units but they can't handle the amp output of my dust collector ( My motor is weird and is 110V / 16amp but spikes around 20amp when you start it up). I wired the wireless relay directly to the outlet but also split the outlet so it would be "half hot" and half wireless. i put one remote with the 2 tools i have connected to the collector, mitre and table saw. Thanks!
I think I would have added a little electrical tape over those terminals just to make sure they can’t bounce around and contact that ungrounded box. Saftey First!
Great insight into manually switching items on and off. Could you run a similar system off the household remote control sockets that are widely available?
The product spec. says 40A but only 1hp at 120V or 1/2hp at 240V. Do you think this will be reliable for 2hp induction motors or 5hp (peak) shop vacs? I've found that some remote power switches die after about 6 months but none of the ones I've used were using 50A relays so maybe this one might hold up. Keep us posted on the long term reliability. If it holds up this is a great deal.
Im definitely interested in how it lasts long term, ive used those Christmas tree light remote switches for my shop vacs for years, and those are never rated for what the shop vac says it draws. Needless to say, i have 3 set up and have been using them for years without a single failure. Im going to be primarily running this for the vacuum pump on my cnc, so we will see how it does!
@@MakeEverything I went through several of the 15A remotes with my shop vac before I found one that would last more than 6 months of daily use. When I took them apart the contact pieces were welded together. I guess the number of actuations is the main factor. I'd say I turn my vac on and off 5x a day so they were dying at around 1000 cycles. For some tools that's a lifetime. For others, 1000 cycles isn't very long. My guess is that the one you listed will last longer since the relay is rated for over 2x the current of the other's I've seen. It would be interesting to know why these devices are rated for much lower power for motors than for resistive loads. My guess is that the startup current spike is the limiting factor for motors and they rate them lower for motors since some motors have a much higher initial current spike than others and they just use the most conservative estimates. Thanks for the video. This is one more option to Build YOUR Space!
The risk is that the contacts will weld themselves shut, and you won't be able to turn your motor off. That's probably not a big deal for a shop vac. For a saw or most other tools, it would be a disaster.
His tool's still grounded though, and the receptacle at the wall's probably grounded. I think it's the same as having a extension cord with a gadget built into it.
That's assuming that none of the hot leads contacts the metal box. If that happens, the box will be hot and touching it could complete the circuit - ouch!
@@nathanmitchell4839 the tool is grounded through the extension cord but the metal box IS NOT grounded and can and will become energized if the hot lead inside contacts the box. If that happens the ground wire will have no effect.
@@alcarlson9091 ONLY 115 V, 24 V can kill you. Securing the receiver to the box is prudent, but it does not ground the receiver. There is no reasonable excuse for not connecting the the ground conductors to the box. I've been an electrician for over 30 years.
Thanks for this video. I followed your guide and created it in my shop for my dust collection system. the weirdest thing just happened. my dust collector turned on by itself. His this happened to you? I'm wondering if there was another RF signal that triggered it to turn on.
Or you can use one of these: Woods 50125WD Outdoor Indoor Wireless Remote Control Outlet Kit, Electrical Plug In Remote Light Switch, Features 1 Grounded Outlet with a Pairable Remote, CSA Rated, FCC Compliant, Black Handles up to 15 amps, 125 vAC. Plug and play-I use one on my dust collector thar draws 8 amps start up and 6 amps running. Of you need more amperage or higher voltage you can wire a relay to plug into the unit's outlet. Best thing it's only 15 bucks on Amazon. Have it for about a year and no issues.
I actually got one from iVac that was only about $60 and it’s awesome. I know it’s not THAT cheap but it was pretty reasonable for what it does and took no figuring out.
Good comments here but I have tried stuff like this. It will fail over time. It may be rated for 40 amps, and even though your collector says 30 amps your amp draw at start-up will be higher. If you turn the collector on and off multiple times per day in the shop or for each cut it will die sooner. I blew through an x-10 and an Ivac switch with the same headroom in a year each. I moved to a very heavy duty contactor for my setup. It has been flawless since. Also as mentioned in other posts the case of the box should be grounded as well. Wire gauge on the extension cord should be 10 gauge minimum but with the startup draw I would go with 8 just to be sure there is minimal voltage drop. I love your stuff but this is the one video out of all of yours I’m not in agreement with.
For safety reasons, the rated amps on a device (from the factory) will always be at or below the stated amount. It is illegal to make a device rated at 15 amps that takes 20 amps on startup, because then the consumer will end up causing fires. Not to say as things wear that the amperage pull can't increase, but the rated amps is always the max load amps, not the running amps. Having said that, 30 amp 220v is 60 amps 110v, so if a cord/breaker/remote is 40a 110/220 often it is only rated for 20a at 220, so it may still be over spec, and cause failure over time.
For example, my dust collector is rated at 15a, but only hits 12a during startup. Now normal electrical design also states that you should only ever use about 80% of your capacity, so something rated at 40a should really only ever use ~34a. But that is usually ignored lol
@@TimothyRitzer You are correct but there is a brief momentary spike that kills these types of units. I have had two manufacturers state this which is still within the electrical safety envelope and engineering but will kill these types of units over time. This is a good explanation www.jadelearning.com/blog/understanding-motor-starting-inrush-currents-nec-article-430-52/ I'm not an electrical engineer or electrician but have friends who are and personal experience with these types of things failing. If you are ok with replacing these things on a periodic basis then so be it but for me I want to set it up once and forget it because it continually works well. I'm just trying to give a voice of caution and experience.
@@robh.8214 My understanding was that the capacitor of the motor was what was used to supply inrush current because otherwise the breaker would flip every time you turned on a motor. Having said that, without personally graphing the current it is hard to say how much it does indeed spike. I use a remote rated for about 80% of my motor and have been fine for some time, but I guess time will tell. Mine is obviously not 220, so the wear pattern may differ
Would this work with cyclone dust collector that has IR remote built-in but it has died. So now i have to go to the cyclone and manually turn it on. Thanks
Using this with a 220v dust collector. I have one 120v leg connected to L input and the other 120v leg connected to neutral. Also grounded to the box. I was testing and with the unit powered off, the output L is off and the output neutral is reading 120v. Is this correct? I keeping reading the N is passthrough, but this would mean my dust collector is always receiving 120v. Am I missing something or will this still work fine?
I had made something similar for my dust collector but if I had see that on amazon I would of so got that, I wouldn’t of had to buy a separate remote switch for my set up
You’d probably be kind of tight but if you got a deep box you’d probably be able to do it. I’m thinking the same thing for a shop vac control, but I might just have a female tail hanging from it if it’s tight.
I am glad I didn't wire that for you, in the UK Black is Negative or Natural, why is Black live in the US, what colour wire do you use on the Multimeter for Live and Natural?
I thought you had brown blue green in the UK? Maybe that’s just Germany? You can use either probe on the meter because it’s alternating current, it won’t show a + or - like in DC. I do normally use the red for the hot and black for the neutral, though, just out of habit, but there is no ill effect for doing it the other way.
@@jeremyspecce Hi, Appliance wiring is brown and blue but building or house wiring is red and black, the colours were changed to Brown and blue so common people didn't mix up red and black? No idea how they could, but 50 or so years ago all wiring in the Uk was red and black, earth was bare copper as it was attached to a bit of pipe in the ground.
For 240, we do use red and black. The manufacturer of the cord must have used wrong colors......for 120v(our normal everyday house circuits) we use black, red, blue for hots and white neutral.
yeah, this doesn't actually switch the neutral switch which makes me a little wary of it for a 240v dust collector at least in Canada where there are 2 live wires with 240
there is an even better, cheaper solution.... for about $15-$20 in parts you can build an auto switch that senses when a tool is running and will turn the dust collector on.... use this key phrase to find it "How To Make A Simple Switch To Automatically Turn On Shop Vac".... and before someone points out its 110V you can get 220V relays....
Thats a nice idea, but in an instance like my vacuum table, I need to be able to turn it on and off as needed, so its important to have its own switch.
Brother is a lawyer, Father is an electrician, I am licenced as neither of those. That being said, I am qualified to say some knucklehead might electrocute himself trying to emulate this...you should add a disclaimer* *not solid but possibly decent advice
I would agree fully. Straight out of Ama-China-zon I’m sure this device carries no UL or CSA certification. This is the stuff your insurance adjuster lives for. Why set yourself up for that kind of risk. There’s a reason why a proper controller costs what it does... cause of that label. You have a shop with thousands, quite likely tens of thousands of dollars of hardware. This isn’t where you save your money.
I see the same thing. I bought one and checked it with my meter, neutral always closed. Don't see how this would work with 220 volt. He should take down this video or be clearer. Just my thoughts, if I am missing something, please let me know.
Wish I had seen your video earlier. I recently bought that Long Ranger thing and it is crap. I looks like it is from the 80s and I have to hit the on button many times to get the thing to come on. Also, only one remote! Very annoying. I think I am going to toss it and use your idea.
I bought it but it is not working. I can not find the problem. I can turn it off but I can not turn it on 😢. Could you please help me? Or someone else 😊
can i get something like this to work on a makita 18v/36v battery extractor rather than having to invest in the same technology that dewalt have qith an investment in new batteries and charger for the system or the even more expensive Makita aws system that requires you buy all new tools
A dangerous electrical situation you are using. There is no ground in your 220V setup. You are using the 120V ground as a neutral and no ground is present in the system. Also using standard 3 prong plugs, it could be plugged into 220V and have a 120V device plugged into it. Dangerous setup if anyone besides you works in the shop.
I understand your comment, but how is there no ground in the system? There is a ground on the outlet im using, and a ground on the cord which goes to the machine... I know I should have ran a grounded tail to the box, but i cant imagine that would do much considering the box is just screwed into drywall. not using twist locks definitely adds a level of danger because the plus look like regular 110v plug. I appreciate the comments always!
JT Thill that is incorrect. They will run without a ground (and it is a ground, not a neutral). It is a safety ground, intended to trip the breaker in the case of the fault. The reason you would want to connect the box to ground is if one of the energized leads vibrates loose it can energize the box and shock you if you touch it. With the box grounded the breaker will be tripped immediately if a hot lead touches the metal box.
@@MakeEverything I'm not the OP, so I could be mistaken but I think he was expecting the 220v to be on two hot lines (110v each) plus a ground and a neutral like most residential is. Usually if you see a 3 prong 220v it does not have neutral. I'm still a little confused on how the box is working as well, since it says it needs a neutral, but it doesn't look like you are providing one. I'm sure I'm just missing something obvious. Thanks for the great video and suggestion.
👍👍👍👍Need a grounding pigtail to the box as well😊
Yeah, certainly a prudent move, if you get the rounded handy box there is usually grounding point which protrudes into the box a little so the grounding screw doesn’t stick past the back of the box, which is nice if you are wall mounting it.
Well, it's a extension cord, so he's just continuing the ground from the outlet to the tool.
Nathan Mitchell he saying the box itself is conductive and contains hot leads inside. If one of the leads came loose it could energize the box and make it a shock hazard. If the box is grounded it will trip the breaker if one of the leads were to contact the box.
Just did this myself on a 2hp (240v 12amp) dust collector and works great! Thanks. Clipped the remote to my carpenter apron, so much better for my set up. I hope it lasts long term so far it's been good!
Update: upon further research this is a questionable set up for a 2hp motor. This switch is not capable of handling the high current at start up for 2hp and will eventually fail. The relay that is required should be able to handle 75amps. I will add in a relay rated for this motor and use the Amazon relay for the RF control.
Update: I left this set up plugged in and the other day it turned on randomly. Scary if I was away. I would recomended disconnecting this set up when you are not in your shop.
Chris that extension cord is rated at 20 amps and you said the circuit for the dust collector is 30 amps. I hope your Dust Collector only draws a max of 20amps.
Dude thank you! Ordered it and two days later in 20 minutes done. Works great on my 220 wired dust collector. Thanks again and if you’re thinking about it do it you won’t be sorry.
And ... There's a DC version too! Hooray. Great find Chris.
Are kidding me? Excellent!
Oh cool!
Do you have a link to the dc version ?
Thanks for posting this. I've been looking for a remote solution that doesn't cost a fortune.
Great tip! If you just take a few minutes to do some improvement like this in the shop , life becomes a lot easier.....Thanks Chris👍👍👍👍
I'm no electrician but, the black wire AND the white wire are HOT in a 220V AC cord. They would normally be called L1 and L2. The green wire is neural which is tied to ground at the breaker panel. You can verify this with a volt meter. You will see 120V between BOTH L1 and neutral/ground AND L2 and neutral/ground. The switching relay is a double pole so both hot leads are disconnected when switched off. As others have noted, be sure to ground the box.
Cheers, F. C.
Is the switching relay double switch as well? I bet the "neutral" line isn't even switched
@@williamweatherall8333 You would win that bet. I bought one of these things and it's only a single pole switch.
You are brilliant. Thank you for the easiest upgrade to my shop in a long time.
Unless you are doing 220 it is against the electric code on USA to break the white wire with a switch except on a gas pump, you should only put hot wire on remote and put wire nut on white wire the reason is so you always have a feturn connected even when switch is off
If you only need 110, pick up a Christmas light remote for ~$20. They are plug+play and typically are weather resistant.
Just ordered one probably order a second going to try and wire it to a two plug outlet so that a machine and dust collector come on at the same time
Perfect timing I'm rewiring my garage shop and will add this to the line I am running to my dust collector couldn't justify the price of the ones I'd seen Thanks
Outstanding video! I did this to replace a failing 220V dust collector remote system. An easy project for any Do-It-Yourselfer.
Thanks for saving me a boat load of money. 😃
A few years back I did something similar (although unnecessarily more complicated) for tuning off a water pump when I was away from home. In that case I used a contactor for the 220 V and a 110 V home automation switch to trigger it automatically when I came or left.
I love the idea of using a box. However, since the box is made of metal, should the box itself be connected to the ground? If the hot wire ever touched the box you could be shocked right?
I had the same question
Now remote control EVERYTHING in the shop.
Besides the pigtail to the box , tape up those terminals, remember that's 220 at the terminals.
Awesome. Just ordered one from your link. Saved me $75 if it works! Thank you
You guys killed the bonzi bus 🔥
Nice video. Awesome instructions. Great thing to add to the shop. Mahalo for sharing! : )
I bought one and works just fine, thank you for the help
Awesome suggestion. I bought one and installed it and it works great. Thank you very much.
That's awesome Chris! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
Great video Chris , I will be making one for my system. Stay well your family and you my friend.
Awesome! Just ordered - thanks for sharing!
I got one for my dust collector and it is awesome.
I have done the in my workshop but I would suggest you ad a relay and only use the remote unit to trigger the relay then you don't have the high current for the dust collect running through the remote system
Thanks! Just ordered one for my DC.
Just stumbled upon your video and bought one of these right away. I had tried the big box store wireless plug and play units but they can't handle the amp output of my dust collector ( My motor is weird and is 110V / 16amp but spikes around 20amp when you start it up). I wired the wireless relay directly to the outlet but also split the outlet so it would be "half hot" and half wireless. i put one remote with the 2 tools i have connected to the collector, mitre and table saw. Thanks!
Worked great! Good find on Amazon!
Do you need to ground the box as well? Meaning, connect a short pig tail to the box and to the green wires in the wire nut.
I guess the other $50 is having them put it together. This works and saves some cash. Nice find Chris.
I think I would have added a little electrical tape over those terminals just to make sure they can’t bounce around and contact that ungrounded box. Saftey First!
That is nice.. What did you do for AIR in your shop? I am thinking about using pex.
That’s a great solution to save some cash.
i actually tried this and it blew up when i turned it off after a few hours :( not sure what i could of done wrong or maybe a deffective product?
What a great tip, awesome, thank you
What's the amperage rating on that thing when using 110 volts? Can it handle 20 amps?
Great insight into manually switching items on and off. Could you run a similar system off the household remote control sockets that are widely available?
The product spec. says 40A but only 1hp at 120V or 1/2hp at 240V. Do you think this will be reliable for 2hp induction motors or 5hp (peak) shop vacs? I've found that some remote power switches die after about 6 months but none of the ones I've used were using 50A relays so maybe this one might hold up. Keep us posted on the long term reliability. If it holds up this is a great deal.
Im definitely interested in how it lasts long term, ive used those Christmas tree light remote switches for my shop vacs for years, and those are never rated for what the shop vac says it draws. Needless to say, i have 3 set up and have been using them for years without a single failure. Im going to be primarily running this for the vacuum pump on my cnc, so we will see how it does!
@@MakeEverything I went through several of the 15A remotes with my shop vac before I found one that would last more than 6 months of daily use. When I took them apart the contact pieces were welded together.
I guess the number of actuations is the main factor. I'd say I turn my vac on and off 5x a day so they were dying at around 1000 cycles. For some tools that's a lifetime. For others, 1000 cycles isn't very long.
My guess is that the one you listed will last longer since the relay is rated for over 2x the current of the other's I've seen.
It would be interesting to know why these devices are rated for much lower power for motors than for resistive loads. My guess is that the startup current spike is the limiting factor for motors and they rate them lower for motors since some motors have a much higher initial current spike than others and they just use the most conservative estimates.
Thanks for the video. This is one more option to Build YOUR Space!
The risk is that the contacts will weld themselves shut, and you won't be able to turn your motor off. That's probably not a big deal for a shop vac. For a saw or most other tools, it would be a disaster.
you need to ground the box too.nice build
You should have connected the ground wires to the metal j-box meet electrical code.
His tool's still grounded though, and the receptacle at the wall's probably grounded. I think it's the same as having a extension cord with a gadget built into it.
That's assuming that none of the hot leads contacts the metal box. If that happens, the box will be hot and touching it could complete the circuit - ouch!
@@nathanmitchell4839 the tool is grounded through the extension cord but the metal box IS NOT grounded and can and will become energized if the hot lead inside contacts the box. If that happens the ground wire will have no effect.
if a hot lead touches the box it is only 115 to ground the RECEIVER should be secured to the box
@@alcarlson9091 ONLY 115 V, 24 V can kill you. Securing the receiver to the box is prudent, but it does not ground the receiver. There is no reasonable excuse for not connecting the the ground conductors to the box. I've been an electrician for over 30 years.
Good stuff, thanks for the great tips
Thanks for this video. I followed your guide and created it in my shop for my dust collection system. the weirdest thing just happened. my dust collector turned on by itself. His this happened to you? I'm wondering if there was another RF signal that triggered it to turn on.
The listing must have changed. It says it's rated for 30 amps for a 12 volt system. That can't possibly be what you used for your dust collector?
Or you can use one of these: Woods 50125WD Outdoor Indoor Wireless Remote Control Outlet Kit, Electrical Plug In Remote Light Switch, Features 1 Grounded Outlet with a Pairable Remote, CSA Rated, FCC Compliant, Black
Handles up to 15 amps, 125 vAC. Plug and play-I use one on my dust collector thar draws 8 amps start up and 6 amps running. Of you need more amperage or higher voltage you can wire a relay to plug into the unit's outlet. Best thing it's only 15 bucks on Amazon. Have it for about a year and no issues.
He said right off the start his was 220. So you are at a fire risk right off the bat.
Wait, if my math is right, you saved $10-$15 dollars? Was hoping this was. True $20 solution.
I'm no electrician, but should that metal box be connected to ground?
Yes
Noice! Now figure out a cheap sawdust level indicator!
I actually got one from iVac that was only about $60 and it’s awesome. I know it’s not THAT cheap but it was pretty reasonable for what it does and took no figuring out.
Heat not an issue in the box?
do you have an update on your remote switch? is it still working?
Works great! I use it every week and have never had an issue. Still haven’t changed the batteries in the remote
Thanks for the quick reply. i love your videos. @@MakeEverything
Good comments here but I have tried stuff like this. It will fail over time.
It may be rated for 40 amps, and even though your collector says 30 amps your amp draw at start-up will be higher. If you turn the collector on and off multiple times per day in the shop or for each cut it will die sooner.
I blew through an x-10 and an Ivac switch with the same headroom in a year each.
I moved to a very heavy duty contactor for my setup. It has been flawless since.
Also as mentioned in other posts the case of the box should be grounded as well.
Wire gauge on the extension cord should be 10 gauge minimum but with the startup draw I would go with 8 just to be sure there is minimal voltage drop.
I love your stuff but this is the one video out of all of yours I’m not in agreement with.
For safety reasons, the rated amps on a device (from the factory) will always be at or below the stated amount. It is illegal to make a device rated at 15 amps that takes 20 amps on startup, because then the consumer will end up causing fires. Not to say as things wear that the amperage pull can't increase, but the rated amps is always the max load amps, not the running amps. Having said that, 30 amp 220v is 60 amps 110v, so if a cord/breaker/remote is 40a 110/220 often it is only rated for 20a at 220, so it may still be over spec, and cause failure over time.
For example, my dust collector is rated at 15a, but only hits 12a during startup. Now normal electrical design also states that you should only ever use about 80% of your capacity, so something rated at 40a should really only ever use ~34a. But that is usually ignored lol
@@TimothyRitzer You are correct but there is a brief momentary spike that kills these types of units. I have had two manufacturers state this which is still within the electrical safety envelope and engineering but will kill these types of units over time.
This is a good explanation
www.jadelearning.com/blog/understanding-motor-starting-inrush-currents-nec-article-430-52/
I'm not an electrical engineer or electrician but have friends who are and personal experience with these types of things failing. If you are ok with replacing these things on a periodic basis then so be it but for me I want to set it up once and forget it because it continually works well.
I'm just trying to give a voice of caution and experience.
@@robh.8214 My understanding was that the capacitor of the motor was what was used to supply inrush current because otherwise the breaker would flip every time you turned on a motor. Having said that, without personally graphing the current it is hard to say how much it does indeed spike. I use a remote rated for about 80% of my motor and have been fine for some time, but I guess time will tell. Mine is obviously not 220, so the wear pattern may differ
What dust collector are you using and does it have a magnetic switch ?
Let's hope the neighbors don't turn on your stuff with theI garage door openers! 👍
Sweet!
Would this work with cyclone dust collector that has IR remote built-in but it has died. So now i have to go to the cyclone and manually turn it on.
Thanks
Using this with a 220v dust collector. I have one 120v leg connected to L input and the other 120v leg connected to neutral. Also grounded to the box. I was testing and with the unit powered off, the output L is off and the output neutral is reading 120v. Is this correct? I keeping reading the N is passthrough, but this would mean my dust collector is always receiving 120v.
Am I missing something or will this still work fine?
I had made something similar for my dust collector but if I had see that on amazon I would of so got that, I wouldn’t of had to buy a separate remote switch for my set up
To make it safe I would secure the switch to the box.
Thank you!!!!!
How much cfm your dust collector?
Is the transmitter small enough an outlet could be mounted along side in the 4sq. box. ?
You’d probably be kind of tight but if you got a deep box you’d probably be able to do it. I’m thinking the same thing for a shop vac control, but I might just have a female tail hanging from it if it’s tight.
I am glad I didn't wire that for you, in the UK Black is Negative or Natural, why is Black live in the US, what colour wire do you use on the Multimeter for Live and Natural?
I thought you had brown blue green in the UK? Maybe that’s just Germany? You can use either probe on the meter because it’s alternating current, it won’t show a + or - like in DC. I do normally use the red for the hot and black for the neutral, though, just out of habit, but there is no ill effect for doing it the other way.
@@jeremyspecce Hi, Appliance wiring is brown and blue but building or house wiring is red and black, the colours were changed to Brown and blue so common people didn't mix up red and black? No idea how they could, but 50 or so years ago all wiring in the Uk was red and black, earth was bare copper as it was attached to a bit of pipe in the ground.
For 240, we do use red and black. The manufacturer of the cord must have used wrong colors......for 120v(our normal everyday house circuits) we use black, red, blue for hots and white neutral.
Hello, if I were to use a 120 volt do I still install the both the load and neutral wires
yeah, this doesn't actually switch the neutral switch which makes me a little wary of it for a 240v dust collector at least in Canada where there are 2 live wires with 240
there is an even better, cheaper solution.... for about $15-$20 in parts you can build an auto switch that senses when a tool is running and will turn the dust collector on.... use this key phrase to find it "How To Make A Simple Switch To Automatically Turn On Shop Vac".... and before someone points out its 110V you can get 220V relays....
Thats a nice idea, but in an instance like my vacuum table, I need to be able to turn it on and off as needed, so its important to have its own switch.
Brother is a lawyer, Father is an electrician, I am licenced as neither of those. That being said, I am qualified to say some knucklehead might electrocute himself trying to emulate this...you should add a disclaimer*
*not solid but possibly decent advice
I would agree fully.
Straight out of Ama-China-zon I’m sure this device carries no UL or CSA certification.
This is the stuff your insurance adjuster lives for. Why set yourself up for that kind of risk. There’s a reason why a proper controller costs what it does... cause of that label.
You have a shop with thousands, quite likely tens of thousands of dollars of hardware. This isn’t where you save your money.
can someone please help me out here? How is that 220? it's not a 3 conductor? It's a line, neutral and a ground. What am I missing here?
I see the same thing. I bought one and checked it with my meter, neutral always closed. Don't see how this would work with 220 volt. He should take down this video or be clearer. Just my thoughts, if I am missing something, please let me know.
Wish I had seen your video earlier. I recently bought that Long Ranger thing and it is crap. I looks like it is from the 80s and I have to hit the on button many times to get the thing to come on. Also, only one remote! Very annoying. I think I am going to toss it and use your idea.
I bought it but it is not working. I can not find the problem. I can turn it off but I can not turn it on 😢. Could you please help me? Or someone else 😊
So this says for 240v, does that mean my PM 3hp can be run on this? It's the Powermatic dual canister one.
I have the same switch, 3hp is only 20amps @ 240v. My dust collector is only 110, but my table saw is 3hp 220v and runs on a 20amp twist lock plug.
@@nwngunner it's a 6/20 nema plug but that shouldn't matter should it?
All you need now is a few robots with their own circuit.
BZZZZZT! BZZZZZZZZZZTTTT! BZZTT BZZZTTT!!!
24/7 operation.
can i get something like this to work on a makita 18v/36v battery extractor rather than having to invest in the same technology that dewalt have qith an investment in new batteries and charger for the system or the even more expensive Makita aws system that requires you buy all new tools
Thats something that would interest me in the uk as im on makita and dont want to cross platform or have to buy all new tools
Please everyone, See Peter Millard’s shop fire warning video about remote controlled motors! (10 minute work shop) Really, do it.
box should be grounded!
panza !!!!!!!!
Fanhonkentasic..!
The box needs to be grounded.
it is $9 on aliexpress lol
A dangerous electrical situation you are using. There is no ground in your 220V setup. You are using the 120V ground as a neutral and no ground is present in the system. Also using standard 3 prong plugs, it could be plugged into 220V and have a 120V device plugged into it. Dangerous setup if anyone besides you works in the shop.
I understand your comment, but how is there no ground in the system? There is a ground on the outlet im using, and a ground on the cord which goes to the machine... I know I should have ran a grounded tail to the box, but i cant imagine that would do much considering the box is just screwed into drywall. not using twist locks definitely adds a level of danger because the plus look like regular 110v plug. I appreciate the comments always!
@@MakeEverything You're using ground (the green wire) as a neutral for both legs of the 220V line. There is no ground.
JT Thill that is incorrect. They will run without a ground (and it is a ground, not a neutral). It is a safety ground, intended to trip the breaker in the case of the fault. The reason you would want to connect the box to ground is if one of the energized leads vibrates loose it can energize the box and shock you if you touch it. With the box grounded the breaker will be tripped immediately if a hot lead touches the metal box.
@@MakeEverything I'm not the OP, so I could be mistaken but I think he was expecting the 220v to be on two hot lines (110v each) plus a ground and a neutral like most residential is. Usually if you see a 3 prong 220v it does not have neutral. I'm still a little confused on how the box is working as well, since it says it needs a neutral, but it doesn't look like you are providing one. I'm sure I'm just missing something obvious. Thanks for the great video and suggestion.
people who are not electricians should not be working with electrics
Sweet!