Overall good video and easy to understand. I like the fact you get fast and to the point. Some people turn a how to video into a novel about everything else.
Thanks for all your great videos--big fan. I started all of a sudden getting clogging on all my prints with my Genius. Filament just stopped coming through anywhere from 10% to 50% of the job during EVERY print, and in prints that had worked fine many times before. Typically the printer was continuing, "printing" in thin air with no filament coming out. I found that I could often get the filament to start flowing again by pushing the filament through from the top by hand (although the print was already ruined). So far this sounds like the situation I´ve seen in many videos on RUclips, but wait... 1. I´m using an all metal heatbreak, so no PTFE anywhere down where the filament is molten, and I changed the heatbreak and the nozzle several times. Also, this happens with 0.4mm and 0.6mm nozzles. I´ve also done several cold pulls, even with nylon. 2. Whenever this happened the extruder gear was just wearing away the filament as it turned in one place until I stopped it (that´s where all that ash-like dust comes from). I tried adjusting the spring tension on the extruder gear, but teeth marks on the filament could be very deep or hardly visible and it didn't make any difference. 3. I used filaments I had successfully used before (all PLA), even new ones still in their sealed plastic bags. 4. I reduced the retraction from 5mm to 2mm. 5. Of course, each time I checked that the filament spool was spinning freely. So, anyone have any comments or suggestions?
PLA likes to stick to an all metal hotend. Also you do have a short run of PTFE above the break in the filament guide make sure its long enough inside the filament guide from break to the inner lip (prong top section). I always use a little canola oil or similar vegetable based oil and season the break (2 drops ran thru on filament) I do keep an oiler with a couple drops in a sponge when I'm running long PLA prints to avoid any sticktion.
Thanks for the video. One thing ill say for getting it back together. Yes it just snaps together seemingly magically, but one thing to keep in mind while trying to get the two parts back. The plate has to go on evenly. If you have one side further in than the other it wont go. After you get the bottom left past the frame, look at your orientation to see where you need to move the plate. You might be able to put a tool into the hole in the center and use that to guide it on. I'm sure I'll have another jam eventually that I can give that a try.
At the time of this video it had 3-many revisions have happened. Not sure how you got the bolt crooked, but possibly using a rubber glove or thick rubber band around an allen key will give you some extra grip to back it out
you dont have problems with your heatsink being vertical like that and cooling the part? also what screwdriver are you using? big hands here and those little screwdrivers are a pain for me to hold on to lol.
The part cooling fan I feel works better with this setup. airflow is directed better and it opens up your view. Screwdriver is the WOWStick I purchased from Banggood.
Hi. Well, in most cases I do it differently: a) heat up the nozzle b) screw the nozzle out c) get a thin (!) wire or drillbit or such (max. 1.5mm) and insert in slowly from the bottom. d) that will push the remaining filament out of the way a little and melt in to the piece of wire/drillbit/alienkey. e) shiftly pull it down and out. The remaining filament will come with it. f) while still hot: put the nozzle back, checking if it comes all the way to the heatbreak g) remain printing. This can be done mid-print when changing filament also.
Always good to have options, nothing wrong with another method. Main reason I did it this way is your less likely to have future leaks from the heat tube/nozzle and I'm not fond of pushing something up thru the block or heattube if i don't have to. it also allows you to clean up the area a bit easier. This one snapped off just inside the lower tube so didn't want to push back into the PTFE or gears and gum up something else. Still a good tip :) Thanks
Thanks for this, encouraged me to try to do this myself, and was successful. Thanks much!!
Glad it helped
Thanks, very useful. Not had that sort of jam yet, but now I know when it does...
Thanks a lot I´ve been strugling with this filament not extruding for days, and this might be it
Overall good video and easy to understand. I like the fact you get fast and to the point. Some people turn a how to video into a novel about everything else.
Thanks for all your great videos--big fan. I started all of a sudden getting clogging on all my prints with my Genius. Filament just stopped coming through anywhere from 10% to 50% of the job during EVERY print, and in prints that had worked fine many times before. Typically the printer was continuing, "printing" in thin air with no filament coming out. I found that I could often get the filament to start flowing again by pushing the filament through from the top by hand (although the print was already ruined).
So far this sounds like the situation I´ve seen in many videos on RUclips, but wait...
1. I´m using an all metal heatbreak, so no PTFE anywhere down where the filament is molten, and I changed the heatbreak and the nozzle several times. Also, this happens with 0.4mm and 0.6mm nozzles. I´ve also done several cold pulls, even with nylon.
2. Whenever this happened the extruder gear was just wearing away the filament as it turned in one place until I stopped it (that´s where all that ash-like dust comes from). I tried adjusting the spring tension on the extruder gear, but teeth marks on the filament could be very deep or hardly visible and it didn't make any difference.
3. I used filaments I had successfully used before (all PLA), even new ones still in their sealed plastic bags.
4. I reduced the retraction from 5mm to 2mm.
5. Of course, each time I checked that the filament spool was spinning freely.
So, anyone have any comments or suggestions?
PLA likes to stick to an all metal hotend. Also you do have a short run of PTFE above the break in the filament guide make sure its long enough inside the filament guide from break to the inner lip (prong top section). I always use a little canola oil or similar vegetable based oil and season the break (2 drops ran thru on filament) I do keep an oiler with a couple drops in a sponge when I'm running long PLA prints to avoid any sticktion.
Well I finally got a chance to try it with a little bit of olive oil run through on some filament, and it worked! Thanks for that great idea.
Thanks for the video. One thing ill say for getting it back together. Yes it just snaps together seemingly magically, but one thing to keep in mind while trying to get the two parts back. The plate has to go on evenly. If you have one side further in than the other it wont go. After you get the bottom left past the frame, look at your orientation to see where you need to move the plate. You might be able to put a tool into the hole in the center and use that to guide it on. I'm sure I'll have another jam eventually that I can give that a try.
I use the bolt to align it with the gear & stepper. just remember that the spring and tension screw need to have a bit of slack
thanks this will be helpful. My X1 arrived today
If you get stuck on something just message me and I'll try to help :)
@@Sgt.Taz3D thank you very kind, much appreciated
@@enochroot9438 How have you been liking it?
Which silicon sock is that? Can't seem to find any that fit.
E3D volcano www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078RWQ1T2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Three bolts behind the heatsink? I had four? Also one is crooked now, so I can't remove it.
At the time of this video it had 3-many revisions have happened. Not sure how you got the bolt crooked, but possibly using a rubber glove or thick rubber band around an allen key will give you some extra grip to back it out
@@Sgt.Taz3D It won't be that easy to get out. So this is one more thing people should look out for.
you dont have problems with your heatsink being vertical like that and cooling the part? also what screwdriver are you using? big hands here and those little screwdrivers are a pain for me to hold on to lol.
The part cooling fan I feel works better with this setup. airflow is directed better and it opens up your view. Screwdriver is the WOWStick I purchased from Banggood.
@@Sgt.Taz3D Do you have the stl file or could you point it out?
@@disturbedllama99 if your asking about the lamp here is the link : www.thingiverse.com/thing:1054232
Hi. Well, in most cases I do it differently:
a) heat up the nozzle
b) screw the nozzle out
c) get a thin (!) wire or drillbit or such (max. 1.5mm) and insert in slowly from the bottom.
d) that will push the remaining filament out of the way a little and melt in to the piece of wire/drillbit/alienkey.
e) shiftly pull it down and out. The remaining filament will come with it.
f) while still hot: put the nozzle back, checking if it comes all the way to the heatbreak
g) remain printing.
This can be done mid-print when changing filament also.
Always good to have options, nothing wrong with another method. Main reason I did it this way is your less likely to have future leaks from the heat tube/nozzle and I'm not fond of pushing something up thru the block or heattube if i don't have to. it also allows you to clean up the area a bit easier. This one snapped off just inside the lower tube so didn't want to push back into the PTFE or gears and gum up something else. Still a good tip :) Thanks
@@Sgt.Taz3D Yes, I also liked the way you are doing this for another way of getting results. The more options the better, I think.
damn that looks fiddly and annoying as hell.
Not too bad, once you get used to it you'll learn to avoid causing the issue and it gets less aggravating once you know how it works :)