Artillery 3D Sidewinder X1 Heatbreak swap: Threaded style
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- This is not an easy swap to pull off. Take your time and do it at your own risk!
Titanium heatbreak used, thanks to TH3D for sending it.
www.th3dstudio...
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Ok correction: The PTFE tube should be 29MM long not 23 as in the video. Sorry for the mixup!
awesome, saw this AFTER cutting the tube DOH! No problems with 23mm as of yet but you might want to change the text in the video as this is the first result in google for "sidewinder x1 heat break replacement"
Im gonna second James comment... i appreciate the video, happening by the comment after Ive cut the ptfe and reassembled everything... :/
Yeah would be nice if you included a textbox with that info, won't take long I bet. Nevertheless, I notices Artillery ships a spare PTFE tube so it's not that bad if you mess up cutting the original one ;)
Thanks for the guide tho. It's the best one out there so far. I went Bi-Metal with my X1 and like it.
Martin Hi, I have two bi-metal here (threded and smooth), it performance well with PLA? And looks like this X1 from Calvin have a treaded one, but in the comments of TriangleLab many Artillery users pointed to the smooth heatbreak. Maybe Artillery changed it during the versions? I’ve a v4 one... thanks!
The heatbreak is held into place with tiny screws on the back side of the plate housing the heatbreak in newer models of the Artillery Sidewinder X1! Do not try to unscrew the heatbreak by turning the heatblock. there is no thread on the heatbreak! Just unscrew the tiny screws and it pops out.
THANK YOU!!!! I thought I was dead in the water when the heat break snapped off. Never occurred to me to look on the other side of the plate. I can't thank you enough.
@@dumbofliesvermont5684 i think there are not enough videos on maintenance of the artillery sidewinder on RUclips. Like 1000 review vids, but clear instructions videos on every maintenance topic are hard to find
I just got a new X1 (2020-02-20) and it looks like the stock heat break and plate are different. Instead of the heat break screwing into the cooling/mounting plate it's press fitted and held in with grub screws. I'd suggest removing the fan and checking for two little grub screw holes where the heat break is held. If they are there then you have the same model that I have and you can loosen them and the heat break should slide right out. The original heat break I received is not threaded at the cold end, its just a barrel. I think I'm going to need to put a lot of thermal paste on the cold end in order for it to make good contact with the cooler block.
Wish I had seen your comment earlier! Was surprised to find it like this, but now I assembled it with a whole lot of thermal paste as well. Did you notice any problems? Does the PTFE tube become too hot in high temp prints?
I switched to an all metal heat break so my PTFE tube is shorter, I did switch to Capricorn tubing since I'm printing some ABS. But I discovered that the new smooth bore plate is compatible with the Kraken/Chimera heat breaks which is also a smooth cylinder on the outside. No need to put loads of paste in there any more.
Man, i wish I saw this sooner. Ended up buying an entirely new extruder as I replaced my heatblock and had no idea why it was sitting loose. Once I got the new one, I disassembled the old one and saw the grub screw holes :'(
You can NOT jam two 6MM nuts and "jam nut" them together to twist out the stuck break because there is a M7 thread in there not a M6 and metric 7 nuts and threads are not quite usual.
Any slicer software changes needed after the swap? It seems I need to up my printing temp by about 10 degrees to avoid under extrusion and clogging. I've also reduced my retraction setting as recommended by many.
small point: why didn't you just use the machine to heat the nozzle and remove that first, then the rest of the hotend?
Thanks a lot for your great review, Dear Calvin.
"obviously" and "obviously" and "obviously"... if you're going to bother making a video and people are watching it to learn something... maybe it isn't obvious. I can guess why you didn't tighten things, but I have no idea why the top of the thread is at the top of the block or whatever.
Again awesome vid Calvin. The purpose of any good how to video is to provide information but also help a first timer feel comfortable doing it themselves. You 100% achieved that for myself..
One note that you might add in the comments, at 1m20s you show how to unscrew the heat block, but on my machine (and a few other cases people have posted about), the metal fan bracket is much closer in, maybe a design update, but it means there isn't room for the heat block to do a full 360 rotation.
I had to solve it by removing that whole left side of the extruder to separate the cooling assembly from the machine to remove the heatblock.
Same thing to put it back, I had to screw the new heat break/heat block back in to withing half a turn of it's final position before assembling the extruder again, and then just a final tightening with everything back in it's original place...
It's a good learning lesson, but a bigger process to replace anything other than the nozzle and maybe thermistor wires.
Thanks Rhys,
Good to know about the metal fan bracket, and I don't expect people to follow my videos to a T but use it more as a guide. That being said it is not a super easy process but if it is done right, it only has to be done once!
Forgive my ignorance, but what is a 6mm tap?
watching you dang near finger something oozing plastic at 400+ degrees gave me anxiety there near the end lol
Your right to take your time. I rushed with this machine and broke the heat break because i didnt have pliers on hand. Then had to wait 3 weeks for parts grrr.
finally replaced the ptfe tube in mine after having cut it too short thanks to this vid, I can print TPU now! should fix the text in the video so it doesn't get anyone else ;)
Used your guides to upgrade my heatbreak, cooling fan, and nozzle. Really helped having videos specific to my machine. Thanks a lot.
what happen if there is a BL touch ????
I took Followed these steps very closely and could not get my heat break to unscrew from the cold side. So after some deeper digging into the hot end, I found 2 set screws under the heat sink loosened them up and found out my heat break is a smooth bore and not threaded like the titanium one. Not sure if mine is an older design or newer design but the new heat break will not work for me since the threads on the new break will not make much contact in the smooth bore of the heatsink with the set-screws tightened down. After a bit of research, I found that the heat break e3d Kracken is the same heat break for my machine.
Yours is the latest revision of heatbreak which does not screw in at the top. The procedure stays almost the same with the exception of that revision. If I can get my hands on that setup I will do an updated video on it.
@@MakeItWithCalvin Ok cool. I have ordered the other style heat-break now without the threads. then I should get good thermal contact with the heat sink. Thanks for your quick response.
@@MakeItWithCalvin yes i did the same but broke mine as i didn't see the 2 little screws before it was to late
ATTENTION!
I tried to change the heatbreak today at my Artillery Sidewinder X1 v4 and for v4 (or at least my printer) this is not threaded but PRESSED!
Beaware of this before you - like I did - destroy your heatbreak.
I have a video showing how to tell which one you have ;-)...
Yeah. That bit me in the ass too. Now that I'm aware, some things make a lot more sense, but when searching for "Artillery X1 V4 Heatbreak Replacement", this video is the first to show up.
So do you just need to but the heat break to fix the plastic tube melting inside issue? @ Calvin Witt
Yeah you are replacing the one that seals the tube against the nozzle (PTFE design) for one that seals against the metal of the break itself.
I BROKE IT TOTALLY! Have you got a link for the "complete" unit?? When I tried to remove the block the tube stayed in the extruder and only the block came off with broken wires. The tube looks ok.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR VIDEO! Quick question, if I want to only change the PTFE tube would I be able to keep everything connected, heat up the nozzle and remove it from the top or is there anything else involved?
To swap the PTFE out you have two options:
Take off the extruder side cover and pull the PTFE tube out that way, it may help if you warm the hotend up as some filament may be "sticking" to the PTFE and make removal/reinsertion a pain.
An alternative method is to unscrew the whole heater assembly from the extruder and swap it that way. Just be mindful of the heater block wires that they don't short when you reinstall the assembly and that the heat sensor is not damaged. It is a delicate unit!
@@MakeItWithCalvinSuccessfully replaced it by removing the heating block. Thank you again!
Has anyone updated their heat block to a copper one and changed the thermistor to a rtd style ? I’m searching and trying to find more information about this. Would like to update to a plated copper or even all steel heater block because the aluminum seems to expand at higher temps and cooling down and leaks happen around the heat break.
Wow, glad I checked comments to see the PTFE change to 29mm! Was just about to install. Quick question, I'm making this change on my brand new X1 (V4) and am installing a hardened steel nozzle (TH3D) at the same time. However, the nozzle doesn't thread all the way down to the base of the nozzle, it's up a few mm. And it appears I can only thread to this position, it seems like it won't go in any further regardless if I back off the heat break or not. Is this correct? When I heat up the block and fully tighten the nozzle, will this work correctly?
Another thing, when I screw the upper threads of the break to the heat sink, it doesn't thread to the same position as it was before. Basically the long side of the heater block is now sitting facing front/back vs side-to-side like it was before. The break is sitting flush, should I attempt to screw it in a bit more? Regardless, won't be able to screw it in 90 degrees to get the block sitting the same as it was. Little concerned about how close the block now is to the LED board. Is this Ok?
Appreciate any help.
I think I may redo the video at some point with some improved advice ;-).
As for not going in all the way that sounds like some gunk in the block which happens which is why cleaning it up with a tap or inserting it hot is a good idea. As for block orientation just do what works for you. I would not worry too much about the LED board. If it bugs you, a silicone sock may not be a bad idea. Overall block orientation does not matter as long as it is not hitting things it should not be.
I hope that helps you out some! I wish there was a hard and fast rule to all this but it is a little bit of a do what works for you situation.
No gunk, my machine has never been used. The nozzle is not threaded all the way down to base. You can see the nozzle on the TH3D site. Here's a link to an image showing how my installation looks - s.amsu.ng/TkbJr3hX1rQN. With the way it's sitting, not sure I'll have enough room to install a silicone sleeve since the edge of the LED board is almost touching the heater block. Any way I can get this to sit closer to the way it was originally (with long side sitting side-to-side)? Maybe by installing a washer between the upper threads of the heat break and the heat sink block? Also note the space above the base of the nozzle. Would rather get it aligning as it was originally if possible. Totally understand that it's up to me but just want to be sure I'm not doing anything that may damage the printer. Thanks for your help.
Hi Christopher may you Link
to me the urls for buying your upgrade parts? Thanks
when you said not to rush things I was rushing the unremovable heatbeak… I still haven't removed it… >.<
I have the threaded one (no screws) and it won't move…
Yes, I heated it with a heat gun
I noticed you only say to finger tighten it and never fully tighten the heat block to the heat break. Am I missing something?
Thanks for your tutorials, they have came in helpful several times! I had a nozzle block I thought, but it was actually a clogged heat break. I ended up breaking it off during reassembly, trying to tighten it up and the thermistor wires were so short it kept pulling the metal clips out of the plastic thermistor plug, and just as you warned I broke one of those. It’s a learning experience for sure. I ordered a few spare parts, hopefully when they arrive I’ll be able to get it all put back together in one piece!
I would be lying if I said I never made mistakes doing it... that said always keep spares and hope it works out for you. Generally speaking, once you get a swap dealt with, you do not have to go back and touch it!
3:53 This is not a 6 mm thread, a M6 nut is too small. Seems like it's M7 and those nuts are hard to obtain. I mean of course you can order them, but there's no guaratee they will fit either and you probably won't be able to use them for anything else.
@Calvin Witt..... Thanks for the vid.... however i need some clarity.. @5:21 when you state the heat break should be almost flush. Apparently this is "important" can you please specify why since you dont in the vid... I got mine installed last night and my outcome was slightly different (have not printed on it yet).. I had my heat break turned OUT about one full thread then when i put my nozzle on i was about 1/2 turn from hitting the heat block entirely and it all seems to fit really well. Having it this way also seems to line up quite nicely with cables and plugging it back in...... thoughts????
At 5:30, my heatbreak is wiggling as well after inserting it into the heat block. How did you end up getting it tightened?
When you tighten the nozzle up after assembly, that's what tightens up the heat-break too. It is the seal between the bottom of the break and the top of the nozzle that stops things wobbling/oozing and turning into a mess.
@@MakeItWithCalvin ah thank you!
@@wskwong2000 np, I may do a video explaining this...
Will these parts and method work on the Artillery genius?
Yes/no. This is an outdated method of changing breaks but the concept stays the same.
@@MakeItWithCalvin but if i get the same type of parts it will work in the genius. correct?
Thanks for the video was very helpful with solving my blocking issues
I cut my tube to 23. I did not read comments. Can i go without tube? do not have any additional tubing that is long enough
I changed everything out even the boards and Now I get a heater Error_ID 1.. Any idea what causes this? all the parts are new.
I appreciate you making this video because I know that the original PTFE tubing isn't the best I've had plans to swap it out, but didn't know how and tried looking for videos. No luck, until I saw ur comment in the forum very detailed and decent quality. thanks
You forgot to get the hotend up to 250c and tighten up the nozzle to make sure the nozzle and heatbreak have no gaps at temp.
Hey, Calvin. In the first half of the video, why didn’t you preheat the nozzle while it was assembled and get the nozzle out first? THANK YOU for this video. It’s given me a lot of insight about the care for the SWX1 before I buy it.
It was a filming afterthought... trust me, it happens a lot ;-)
Can anyone please clarify? Does the Sidewinder X1 use both threaded and non-threaded heatbreaks? I want to replace my heatbreak and nozzle to be able to print engineering plastics. I don't want to take my hot-end apart until the new parts arrive. Many thanks.
Cover that here! ruclips.net/video/QlqgTb-nVlo/видео.html Best to check as part way through production they switched to the threadless break which I personally prefer!
In all versions from 2020 impossible to change they way showing in video because heatbreak have Slotted Throat. Previous versions used the threaded throat.
Here the look at the smooth one all metal bi metallic according to E3D Kraken specs that people have been using it's the same dimensions www.aliexpress.com/item/4000698566141.html?aff_platform=portals-tool&sk=_dZp60eu&aff_trace_key=8ce84251810d41569ed3326bca124e91-1592348084280-01203-_dZp60eu&terminal_id=ee8b2b9fe6e841658a4d8c58864a01d3&tmLog=new_Detail&aff_request_id=8ce84251810d41569ed3326bca124e91-1592348084280-01203-_dZp60eu
Thank you for the video just getting ready to install my new heat break after a horrible print.
Alliexpress has a Triangle labs bimetallic heatbreak that seems to match the dimensions of the kraken heatbreak (artillery X1 V4) essentially its a clone of slice engineerings Copperhead . Unfortunately the copperhead only comes in threaded version or I would have supported them. I've purchased the Triangle labs version wish me luck :o) Apparently bimetallic is supposed to be better than titanium.
Meh, run the TI one with no issues for months on this and my HicTop. I understand the science of the bimetal but honestly I think it is more "bling bling" than anything. But if someone wants to send one, be my guest I will gladly try it out!
@@MakeItWithCalvin I've got a spare how do I contact you to send?
Clavin, is it possible to do a detailed video how a newbie can calibrate e-steps on artillery sidewinder x1? Thank you in advance! Cheers!
If you look up Tom's 3DP he covers the topic... I am hesitant to do a video on it as it is very easy to make things worse vs better...
@@MakeItWithCalvin ok...its just my english its not good enough to understand their tutorial with technical language
Just had a similar issue with my X1. The nozzle wasn't seated against the break and it leaked out, successfully encasing the whole thing in PLA. Just got an E-mail from Envovo, they are sending me a new one.
You can also heat it up with a heat gun and peel the plastic off... Bit faster than waiting on a replacement.
Calvin Witt yes, I’m gonna put it back together and try that.
which end of heat break threads does thermal paste get applied. where it it screwed into heat block or threads that go into cooling block (I'm assuming threads that go into cooling block)
They get applied to the "cold" end, the one that goes into the extruder/block. You do not need anything fancy for the thermal paste, just something with a high thermal transfer rate. It also helps to put a little on the heatsink and extruder body to aid in the heat getting out!
Having some issues with the installation of the heat break. It appears it's oozing some filament from the bottom of the heat break which is now encasing part of the heat block (top, bottom & sides). I'll try to get you some images. As I stated eariler, something doesn't appear to be fitting correctly (check my comments below). Issues with bottom of the nozzle not mating with the base of the block and the fact that I cannot tighten the block enough to get it into it's original front-to-back position. It sits side-to-side butted against the LED board. And now I have filament coating most of the top of heat block and it's dripped down inside the threads where the heat break screws into the block. It's also coated the area where the heater is installed in the block and around the base of the nozzle. I really want to try to clean all this up but not sure how to do that. I was able to do some printing but I'm not getting reasonable results and want to get everything reset and fitting properly. Also want to fit a silicon sleeve onto the block but there's not enough space between the block and LED board to fit the sleeve, so I have to find a way to get it back to it's original front-to-back position (or at least so I'm able to screw it a bit further back towards it's original position). Any suggestions on how to proceed? Thanks.
Where you mention not being able to fully tighten the heat block and at it's tightest it sits sideways, usually it 'lock' in when the nozzle is meeting it. By that I mean (at least in my case), if you loosen the nozzle a bit, the heat block loosens at the top and you can screw it in a bit further, then tighten the nozzle again..
The mothod I found is don't tighten the nozzle until you screw the heat block to about 1/8ths of a turn from it's final position. You then screw the nozzle in until it is just touching the heatbreak inside.
At that point, turn the block again and it will immediately get tight. It is weird how it works but as soon as the nozzle is tightened, the heatblock is tightened too. So you can play around with when you screw the nozzle against the heat break, and thus adjust where the heatblock faces when it is screwed in tight.
Regarding the nozzle, it does not need to butt up against the heat block,,, only the inside thread part must meet the thread of the heatbreak inside... thid means you may even still see a thread between your nozzle and heatblock when tightened, but this is good and means the nozzle is most likely sealed against the heatbreak.
If your nozzle is able to tighten against the heat block, it could mean that the heatbreak is too high and they didn't end up touching each other..
It takes some playing with, but watching enough videos and experimenting, you'll get it.
I just switched to a bimetal heatbreak, so thanks for this video. I seem to have a lot of under extrusion at retractions now (benchy bow is perfect, but the canopy is flawed). Does the heatbreak affect retraction values or is something perhaps assembled wrong?
Hey,
I'm also looking to buy the all metal hotend, do you know if I need to order the threaded one or the smooth version? My printer is the v4
@@kennymahadewsing1582 As far as I have seen around the forums the v4 is the kraken style like on the Genius. Better Google it at make sure, but I'm 99%
A few things to note on cleaning the nozzles. Pliers and a blowtorch. Heat them to red, then brush/polish with scotchpad. 2 minutes and perfectly clean.
One caveat to that is the fact that you will destroy any hardening on the nozzle and run the risk of melting it. I usually store my nozzles in acetone to help break down the filament while it soaks.
@@MakeItWithCalvin - As long as you cool them you dont have to worry about ruining the hardening. It takes a number of cycles for it to have any measurable impact on its integrity- you will wear the nozzle out long before that happens. Brass can only be "hardened" by working it- and most stock used for nozzles isnt to begin with. I run casting foundries and blacksmithing so Ive had a long time to ruin metals. (laughs) "Red" (or even slightly less) is far from its melting point. Dont be afraid to super clean those nozzles.
I wish I would have watched this video first, but I broke the wire on my thermistor. I have been trying to find a direct replacement without to much splicing, and I haven't found one. The volcano hotend doesn't seem to be quite the same. Any suggestions, thanks for the video content!
tinymachines3d.com/ is where I ordered mine. They seem to have several Sidewinder parts.
Artillery3D has a really great customer support! If you still have warranty, write them kindly and they will be happy to help.
I had problems with my hotend, sent them pictures and they sent me a new one.
Theytold me it will take long for shipment, but it arrived soon later.
If you going to replace it suggest one of these style www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07Q82LDKD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 why replace it with the same flimsy thermistor. Basically you screw it into the hole that the thermistor screw goes into and the other end simply plugs in like you old one. Check this vid out ruclips.net/video/zVZsW6nNEPY/видео.html there is a US version as well.
but it doesn't work with the v4 version.
probably because v4 uses no threaded heartbreak, you can find smooth Trianglelab Bi-Metal Heatbreak for e3D v6
Hi Calvin. Thanks for all your posts on my new favorite printer. Mine just started shutting down due to a thermal runaway issue. It just started. I was hoping this video would help. Any ideas?
Normal causes include:
Temp sensor lose, shorting or dying.
Lots of fan blowing onto the heater block during printing can cause it to error out
Connections not plugged correctly.
In my case, I had my machine temp error due to an intermittent connection between the thermistor and the wires going bad due to a break inside the heatshrink. I swapped the temp sensor and that did the trick. Temp sensors do not live forever so I tell people to keep at least one spare on hand, just in case!
Doesn't look like you use a silicon sleeve on your heater? Why is that?
Is it an issue not running one? I have not had any issues without one and do have one I could install but I am always worried it will fall off.
Would using a Capricorn tube be a suitable upgrade or no difference?
This is all speculation but from what I've heard people saying the ptfe tube used is not the best and considering Capricorn makes the gold standard of ptfe tubing it would be an upgrade especially if you need to print around 250C regularly. That said I don't know if I personally would or would recommend tearing apart the entire hotend just to replace the tube if that's all you're replacing.
as long as it has the exact same outside and inner diameter I dont see why not. I thought capricorn tubing had a slightly thinner outside diameter but i could be wrong
when I tried this the heat block turn and unscrewed but left the heatbreak in the machine!
If you have the v4, it is because the heatbreak is not threaded. It is held in place by two grub screws. I know because I just worked on my v4 tonight.
Yea I broke mine twisting it out...
It never came out
No issues not having one. But I've found and I believe the general consensus is that you get better results using one, especially when using filaments that require higher temps. Was just interested to know if you had specific reasons for not using one. Just a general question, is the heater block on the Sidewinder a V1?
I understand the concept but never saw a need for me but will give it a try for the sake of experimentation. The machine uses a volcano style heater.
It also helps to keep filament off the heater block which helps it to have better thermal properties. I know the heater is a Volcano type, but there are several versions of volcanoes. The V1 has the nozzle close to the edge, the V2 is further back. It looks lika a V1. Just interested to see if you knew for sure.
@@christopherlyons7613 I have seen other versions but not familiar with minor changes. The machine does what I need so it works for me. The other changes are icing on the cake.
@@christopherlyons7613 i think V1 is the one you look for..
I have heard it said that the sock helps keep a steady heat in the heat block which i'm not sure if it needs that. Maybe if the part cooling duct blew on it more directly..
I think the main purpose of it though is to help stop radiant heat from the block reaching what you have printed..
A lot of people get great results with or without and I have never seen anyone demonstrating a comparison. Let alone if the comparison would show a difference.
That said, I got a v1 sock and put a slice down the back for the thermistor wires to go through so they aren't being bent at a weird angle, and it keeps my block clean. Didn't have any problems before installing it though.
The volcano clone on the X1 is a V1 clone not a v2 clone, hence most silicone socks out there for the Volcano dont fit well because most are the V2 heat socks. Any one know where I can get volcano v1 style heat sock?
Why would you leave this video up? Make a better one or take it down. You’re confusing more people than you’re helping.
Why do you say that? As of the time of release, lots of people have this style machine. I do not knowingly own one with the new style. If you want to buy me the parts to do an updated video, please contact me.
Yup it's not his fault and it's bound to be helpful for those with V1, V2, V3 Sidewinders. I've order some bi metallic non screw types from China that should fit in about a months time I'll see if I can master making a basic video :o), At least Calvin is the only one with this type of video out