I Blew The Motor In My Motorcycle Powered Car
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
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"Faint ticking noise" just means there's no hole in the block yet.
Ohhhhh... Not always. XD
1:55 It's subtle, a slight ticking noise...
I thought a jack hammer is quieter
Drove a car once after it broke a rod and sent it through the block. Was better than pushing it into and out of and then back into the shop. |
Had to drive it back in when the adjuster showed up. That time, there was no oil in the engine because the pan was off, but meh... rod through the block.
Mazdaspeed 6. It shook like a Harley with only 3 pistons attached to the crankshaft.
@@manbunmyname5866 I’ve owned a few cars over the years which ended up making a “faint ticking noise”! The fact they were making any noise meant they were still running so to fix the problem I turned up the music. 🤣
I love that you just own your mistakes. And not only learn from them, but literally point them out for everyone else too. I can't wait to see what you do with the S600 to bring it back to life.
Kawasaki H2 Engine please!
Acknowledging & learning from your mistakes is one of the key parts of engineering... reality can be *very* humbling to an engineer; you can't fool yourself for very long (when an engine explodes, for example) so in the end it's just easiest to be cheerful & own your mistakes with good grace.
AHAHAHAHA!!
No.
It's the classic "win or learn - never a fail", so here we have a great learning experience 😁
..but on a side note - did he not mention this could happen in an earlier video with similar wording "it will probably be fine?" - so he was already aware this could happen 🤔😄
@@masterswish3355 Hayabusa ?
2:00 So subtle that it takes a really well trained ear to notice.
Just the rods quietly knocking on the cases to let you know they're gonna leave soon.
2:00 I put my volume really high to hear that slight ticking noise. Now I can here slightly ringin noise too...
Haha, says 'Subtle'. Yeah right! I got my phone near my ear!
This dude will do literally anything to keep from having to finish the Jag... 😂 Love the content!
Insert a monty python, "get on with it" intermission.
Ignore the "slight ticking noise" for now, it's not a really a problem until it stops..... 🙃
Its just a "Slight Noise" afterall!
It's called the time bomb - tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, BOOM!!!
It generally gets progressively louder, then really quiet, but then it starts vibrating like a Harley.
Always good to see air-quote Matt. Also, this is a great "opportunity" to update the car.
I’ve seen a lot of RUclipsrs recently draining glitter out of their engines and gearboxes. Someone ought to tell them to stop putting glitter in there in the first place!
Damn chemicals in the gasoline turning the cars gay!
It’s the stolen Amazon packages causing it ….
They just have to tell their girlfriends to stop doing make up at same time that these women are change or adding oil to their vechiles for them.
@@drgunnwilliams5185 their exclusively glitter based makeup, those woman-types are strange.
Walked into clubhouse one time with (unknowns to me) woman glitter. One of guys tried giving me a hard time. I replied - What jealous, because you don't have one that rubbs it off on you?@@crackedemerald4930
Considering how you absolutely never get distracted by new and exciting projects ever, I'm expecting a three part series on dry sumps and why you're making your own while the Jaguar has a little rest
He obviously has to start with a two part series about the history of engine oil
@@grahamnelson5376 Very true, and considering how interesting most people find oil (not at all interesting) it'll probably please the algorithm and be extremely popular.
As a disclaimer I find all of these "boring" subjects fascinating. Like Tyres, oil, coolant, brake fluids, etc
We run a cbr600 in our FSAE car and have had really good luck with the Dailey engineering dry sump pump that replaces your water pump, just throw in a electric water pump and add a oil swirl pot/reservoir and we still keep 80+psi pulling 1.5gs
I love that "slight ticking noise" you mentioned at 1:56. I could barely hear that.
I recently added an oil accumulator to my track toy and it definitely helped stabilize the oil pressure. It just depends on the level of "racecar" you're looking for. For my stockish track toy it's a great improvement for about $500 ish dollars including the accumulator, and all the lines, oil filter mount, et cetera that I made. Where as a dry sump would be a couple thousand easily. One change I would make however is putting in an electronic valve, the manual valve is simple but inconvenient.
Do you ever use it as a pre-oiler before starting?
@@OvertravelX Yes, that's the primary reason I installed it. Since I drive the car maybe once a month I wanted a way to protect it at startup. Because even though oil filters have an anti-drain back valve in them they are not perfect (and not all brands are made equal) and will eventually leak by all the oil leaving you with dry bearings. It also added some insurance on the track too.
some engines can end up trapping oil in the top end and starving the mains. oil can also foam and be a problem. long corners dont help.in a motorcycle centrifugal force keeps oil at a level that keeps the pressure constant. in a car? not so much.
This was fantastic, like a mechanical engineering version of Forensic Files with Matt's dry humor to accentuate the morbid death of the Honda motorcycle engine.
If you like this kind of engine CSI content, may I suggest to you this video ruclips.net/video/En52_44umYw/видео.html and most of his videos. It has no Matt, but still...
@@artbk Ha! I never miss an episode of I Do Cars! I've learned so much from both channels. They scare the hell out of me to the point I've become a routine maintenance fanatic. Also great humor on his channel.
This is the PERFECT description, well done lol.
I always love the commentary. The phrase “faint ticking noise” is nicely understated.
I could not notice that slight ticking.. lol
I'm lost in envy of Matts attitude to life. Mistakes were probably made but fun was definitely had. All hail.
Make a 'pendulum' oil pickup. It's a oil pickup with a swivel in the middle and the end always seeks the gravity low spot. Works great until it gets a small vacuum leak and sucks air.
Dunno, that dry sump thing sounds more robust.
Daignosis correct. BUT you should have a 25-30psi oil light. A trailer light is best big and bright!
And ofcourse an oil guage which is the first guage any engine should get, followed by water and oil temp. Than a tach!!
A better pan and what I find to be an excellent deaeraration device, an oil cooler. Not so much for temp but as a device to deaerate the oil. You may have oil and oil pressure but oil with 20% air does not lubricate near as well as straight cooler oil.
I love how understated you make things. Slight ticking.
could barely hear it to be honest.
I know the usual step now would be to go to the venerable hayabusa engine, maybe with a little something called a turbo attached at this point (as the old busa engine is to engine swaps what crabs are to evolution) but may I suggest something from Honda that I am absolutely not sure would even fit in the engine bay?
A Goldwing GL1800 engine.
Triumph rocket three might work too...🤔
I think he's pretty set on a Honda engine.
Maybe a CBR 1000 this time to have more "torque"
@@anidiotinaracingcar4874 i think there was a BMW engine on a workbench in a previous video
K1600 engine!
"safe-T-turbo" for safe overtaking
The sidecar racers or bike engined sportscar crew use a swivelling oil pick up to get round this issue
3:13, "ran some calculations"
Looked at beam, that'll do...
Please please!!!! Do your own dry sump! I've been researching this a bunch for my project and would love to see your take on it. Sucks that you blew the engine but looks like you had fun doing it!
It is easy to do on a car engine since we have plenty of space with acc drive system with belts to run an off the shelf hydraulic pump. On a motorcycle engine replumbing the stock pumps pickup and oil galleys to do a dry sump is doable as well. The pump does not have to be external. With a small internal pump you would have to be careful about the length of the runs, diameter or tubing and lift height. So no 5 gallon drum of oil in the trunk area of the car. The thing to remember though about a proper dry sump especially in racing is that getting the oil out of the path of the crank and preventing oil starvation in sustained tight turns is only the side benefits. The real benefit is how much power you can build pulling a vacuum on the bottom end of the engine. That is why racing bodies like say NASCAR limit the size of the hydraulic pump that can be used on the engine. Things like bay to bay breathing on the bottom end become almost less of an issue. It also allows for far more oil capacity than would be doable with a conventional oil pan and the need to package things. In F1 using oil consumption as a means of increasing power and range with exotic oils some of which are designed to burn on purpose and creative PCV systems to facilitate that has also been done already as well!
Seriously, I literally tried to watch this video without laughing out loud. The subtle noise part put a smile on my face, but the fast-forwarding part got me. hahahahahaha
So if you do a motorcycle power plant swap you need a dry sump system so you never have to worry about problem I'm guessing? Awesome video teaching us what to do and no to do lol.
Don't be silly. You need active mounts so your engine can lean when your car corners. A few linear actuators, some Arduino...
@@Lawrence330 Make it passive and mechanical so steering tilts the engine.
A whole new meaning to "torque steer".
@@EmyrDerfel I see where you're going with that, but the lean angle depends on the lateral acceleration, which depends on both speed and steering angle, not just steering angle. You an build a mechanical calculator... or go the computer-and-actuator route. Or just put in an accumulator.
When I was doing the "motorcycle engine in a car" thing in a different context (also FSAE), we used to think that the starvation issue was more worrying with "normal" transverse mounting (where the lateral accel means slosh across the pan) than with "longitudinal" mounting (where the lateral accel is kinda like the longitudinal accel/decel the bike engine would see when starting and stopping without pulling sick wheelies and endos). I guess we all were wrong there, but right to spend too much of our lives making a dry sump. Thanks for showing us the light, and good luck with the new revision. Design, build, asplode, repeat.
We also had this issue, our solution was a custom oil pan that was about 1" deep, it had a few baffles and one-way flaps to stop sloshing. Kept oil pressure within a few psi of nominal on skidpad.
We still had a wetsump, but had an L-shaped pickup with a weight on the end that swiveled on a ball bearing. Our previous drysumps kept blowing engines, once we switched to that wetsump we were able to keep our engine healthy for years.
Yeah it makes little difference.
For example in an LS3 on sustained right hand corner over 1.4G it will accumulate oil in left hand head and starve the mains.
You can still starve a longitudinally mounted F20C in an S2000 with stock rims and a baffled sump.
Accusump for casual track days or dry sump if you want to pull G's an run hard. Best part is priming engine before you start it by turning the oil pump separately :)
@@N4CR Interesting examples. All the concerns about the orientation of acceleration in corners I mentioned in reference to sumps also applies to drainback design, too. But you're right that a sump wouldn't solve those.
"Matt Bueller" at the end. :D
He should have filmed that wearing a dressing gown.
I had to scroll this far for someone to get the reference 😂
I just found this channel and I'm loving it. He talks in a way where technical things are easy to understand.
Shame about that motor. But, hey! Sh*t happens. You always make me laugh somewhere in your video's, loved the end of this one.
I had to play the clip 4-5 times to hear the ticking... it was indeed subtle!!
So next week we will see Matt with a new used 180hp Honda motorcycle engine. Sweet !
or too restrictive oil baffle. in a corner oil sloshes and gets trapped above the baffle and cant drain back. then straight up run out of oil under the baffle and around the pickup. could be something idk. also what's next? busa, zx14 would probs be better with the extra displacement than the rrrrrrrrrrrsp-r motor you mentioned previously.
also how do you get a good oil level when you have an accumulator? you don't want it to suck up air cuz all the oil is in the chamber. or does it just self regulate and you don't have to worry about it.
I noticed that too.It's not a good design
The accumulator self regulates. It can only hold so much oil so basically you adjust the level in the engine so the engine is full when the accumulator is also full.
It depends on the system but, generally the accumulator basically just injects more oil under pressure whenever the engine oil pressure is lower than what’s in the accumulator. Then, whenever the engine pressure comes back up it recharges the accumulator.
At the end of the day accumulators are bandaids and don’t really solve the problem. They’re good for pre-oiling an engine before starting it though.
@@NBSV1 ok i get it just have a volume measurement for the oil level then add the volume of the accumulator.
but how does it work as a pre-oiler? shouldn't the accumulator be empty when there is no oil pressure? ie. when it's not running before you start it.
@@nick4506 It has a valve between the accumulator and the engine. Either a manual one or an electronic one. Basically if you close the valve before you shut off the engine then the accumulator will store however much oil under pressure. Then, you can open the valve before starting and the accumulator will push that pressurized oil into the engine to pre-lube it.
Accumulators are great as a pre-lube device, especially for things that sit a long time. They help with oil issues on track, but aren't the ideal solution.
@@NBSV1 cool, idk it seems like a perfect solution to me. adequate oiling with stock pump reliability? and without the cost or paracidic losses of running a 5 pump dry sump? sounds great. i guess if your raceing up the Guggenheim you will find the limits but i think it's adequate.
Ok Matt, it's Hayabusa engine time.
Exactly, turbo Hayabusa easy 300++ HP ...
I felt so special when I too could hear that subtle ticking noise. Made me feel like a proper gear head.
Seen a significant number of bike engines fail in kits cars (Caterhams, Westfields, Furys, others) through oil starvation on tracks in the UK and Europe some 20 years ago. People quickly resorted to using dry sumps or Accusumps. The Accusump works for short surge situations. Dry sump is the only "proper" solution but it is expensive.
What a treat it was stumble across this video. My dad raced an S600 he imported from Canada back in the day... Good stuff.
A+ Ferris Bueller reference.
Wow thx for the lesson in lubricating, I was daydreaming about doing the same to my microcar and now have added a new chapter of things needed to consider.
I've had this on my mazda. Hard driving leads to low oil pressure, which leads to no oil, which leads to leaving your internals all over the glorious blacktop
Great example of a spun bearing. BTDT! Sucks to be sure. I cured mine with a new motor and an accusump and crank scraper, and windage tray... total overkill, but seemed prudent.
Hi Matt, I love your sense of humor 🤣 Thank you for making RUclips better. Regards from Germany, Ralph
If something breaks, gets damaged, or destroyed, it means you deserve a better one. I suggest a Honda 1000RR which makes slightly better horsepower and costs enough to inspire that trick dry-sump system you mentioned. Love the channel - keep up the good work.
On our internal combustion FSAE cars (using the '07/'08 CBR600RR) we ran trapdoor baffles in a custom oil pan which worked well, although FSAE autocross corners are nowhere near as long as those on a road course. The trap door baffles let oil into the center area where the pickup is, but they don't let it out. At least in FSAE, IMO you don't need to go dry sump if you have a well designed oil pan. We also overfilled the engine oil a bit which helped.
I'm fascinated by the fact that you had a 'the engine is dead'-light on your car, misleadingly mislabeled as an oil pressure warning
While having a beer after a stressful day at work. Watching your video I hear "not sure if you be able to hear it" turn up the volume on my headset , I nearly spat beer everywhere 😂🤣
The next engine should be a Hayabusa engine with an added little turbo 😁
I'd suggest a K1600 engine, which has nowhere near the same degree of affordability, power, (lack of) weight, tunability, aftermarket support, or anything really. But hey it's a tiny straight 6
Nah, he should definitely keep it a Honda engine, imo
Turbobusa is a go
@@Blaquer17 The GL1800 awaits your ascension to the land of 6 cylinders
@@Bobinatronus Good one!
The accumulator is an easy way to solve it, though they need to be serviced now and then. Mine had over a liter (a quart for those sticking to medieval units) leaked over to the air side, and the tank peed copiously all over the floor before i replaced all the o-rings. (chose to have it in the car for easy access and weight distribution). Best of luck with the little gem, it's high on my "i want"-list.
Hey! Those "medieval units" are super easy to work with! Why count by tens when you could count by 3, 12, 4, 16, 1760 and 5280? It's not like the rest of the world has a better way. /s
I think you will find that buying a dry sump kit for the motor you select is a good option :-)
Time for dry sump … and a big Kawasaki. You narratives are definitely the best. 👏👏👏👏
I would opt for the heavy-duty rubber band! No oil issues there.
Many years back I remember hearing a Commer van with the dreaded big end death rattle as I drove past in the opposite direction. I thought 'If he gets that thing home it'll be a miracle'. On the way back, there was the van, about 50 yards further on and a lump of metal lying in the road behind it in a pool of oil. No miracles that day!
Good luck whatever solution you decide on, Matt...I'll enjoy your approach to the problem whatever you decide to do.
So cool to see a growing RUclips who lives somewhat close to where I live😁 keep up the good work Matt
Well explained! Sorry for your loss. Looks like you were having a blast till it was time for the trailer.
Today I discovered video you did with jay leno a while ago and loved it. Came to your channel for more content on this car and looks like I’m right on time!
I use a "snake oil", ProBlend. Since 1984. I have many stories, one is the block cracked in my Mazda pickup and all the oil went into the water. To keep it short, the temp needle was off scale. I drove over 100 miles down to Los ALtos and back up the Santa Cruz mountains. The engine started right up and stopped like nothing happened. The spark plug boots were very swollen. It was trashed but it started right up. I had used it for 6 years, 120K miles so it had nice coating of ProBlend (8000, 8080). So I've used it on everything, even pre mix for my sons MX races. It makes wet clutch's and transmissions shift smoother.
Nice to see a fellow SRT member on the internet. I also have a motorcycle powered car 126p with a cbr929 engine (i use it for amateur rally) I highly recommend going to a 04-07 cbr1krr engine they are cocroaches and make wonderful power. Or a cross plane r1 if you want that sweet sound. Best luck on your future endeavors and thanks for the amazing content !!!!
I love watching your mind dissect problems. O_O You're so smart and I'm jelly.
Shame the motor blew, but I see a great opportunity to stick a v four engine inside.
Silver lining of the situation - newer more powerful engine and as an additional benefit you will be fabricating more. That's a plus for us since we will have more videos from you.
"slight ticking noise", sure.......
Also, where's "all hail the algorithm"?
Sounds like a perfectly running ducati engine to me!? 😂😉
Your content is amazing Matt! Hope your week has been great other than the blown engine.
I had an old Triumph TR7 I tried using as a ITB SCCA car around 1999. The engine did a bearing consumption move that produced a tick very similar to yours... fixed mine with straight 70 weight motor oil, well it sounded fixed for about the first two minutes after a cold start up.
This channel is friggin hilarious, great stuff man
Your videos always make me laugh! and I so appreciate that you own your mistakes. one of my favorite you tubers
A good old Triumph Daytona 1200cc engine would be great for this lil car, the rpm might not be quite as high as the Honda engine but its a very very strong engine with a huge clutch and tough as nails, that slightly lower rpm is balanced by quite a lot of torque ,especially by motorcycle terms, its 145 bhp stock, the only down side for some people is that they would be carbed engines and not fuel injection, a plus for me, i love carbs.
That knocking sound is as subtle as getting shot with a swivel cannon
I have done the same conversion to my nissan 1400 ldv. Known as a 1200 sunny truck. Im located in south africa. Bought a bike and used as much of the bike as i could. Love your videos.
Excited to see the new idea you run with. This car is my favorite of your builds
That little clip at the end with the bear made me hit the like button, would have forgotten otherwise.
Issue with using the stock oil pumps for dry sump, is a gear-stator pump is poor at moving air. Dry sump systems use roots type dual gear pumps for the scavenge, and a gear pump for the pressure pump.
Matt! Perhaps it's too late, or this isn't the direction you want to go... But I would love to see a BMW K1600 engine go into this thing.
8:48 Michigan International Speedway Formula SAE endurance event. Worked it many times.... Is awesome!
As a wise man once said "shit happens".
An homage to Ferris! You truly have a great channel! ~P
"slight ticking noise"💀💀💀 that joint was knocking hard
Been loving this project from the start. Even inspired me to my first build too. Now I'm about 300 hours into a complete renovation and customization of a 1953 Standard Hp8. Still pondering about the engine swap. Got two to choose from. An 1100 Yamaha V-twin, or a 1200 BMW inline 4. V-twin would make it pretty unique, but then again... There are a BUNCH of turbo kits for the beemer engine.... 🤤
In the 1960's my grandfather put the engine from a standard 10 in his 8, and fitted the blower from a small detroit diesel to it, im not sure which one, i would assume one with 4 or less cylinders, he used the air conditioner clutch from some american car so it could be switched off when the extra power was not needed.
@@Colt45hatchback That sounds like an absolutely amazing build. 👌
@@89RASMUS yeah, i wish i had got to see it, unfortunatly he died when i was only a few months old, and the car was long gone by then, but i remember my grandma and dad talking about it and how he used to build things just for fun, he was a mechanic before ww2, then an aircraft mechanic during (for hungary) and then after the war he migrated to australia on the premise of being an aircraft mechanic for ansett airlines, but when he found out he was to be a supervisor and not hands on, he turned them down and became a mechanic for a truck and bus workshop and later worked at a deutz and detroit diesel specialist
DIY dry sump sounds awesome
So, bottom line, you intended to trash the engine so you could put a different engine in. Well planned and executed!
That is also an issue with VW Bug engines on big sweeping on/off ramps. The oil all gets slung into the cylinders.
in North Carolina a lot of on ramps in the fayettville area are exactly that. big sweeping on/off ramps. When I was a new driver I used to drift my 62 bug around those turns by going so fast that the rear end would naturally kick out a bit. The g loads was enough that one time I did it, and saw the oil light flicker, and then knock knock.
@@kasuraga Out of curiosity, had it done significant damage to the motor or did it stop knocking after you got back onto a straight road?
@@clonkex oh, no, once the knocking started it only got progressively worse as I limped it back home. it destroyed the crank and rod
@@kasuraga RIP 62 bug
Harbor Freight Predator. Those things don't even need oil. You could rig up an elaborate set of pulleys from the cockpit to do the pull start.
Never seen your vids but subbed after a minute. Love motorbike engine swaps specially Honda. Engine sounded sweet to me as an ex submarine captain.
Another thought is that your engine is longitudinal in the car. So the long turns act like a wheelie/stoppie. I know it's common for stunt riders to put an extra half a quart or more of oil in Honda 600cc engines to prevent oil starvation during long wheelies. Looking forward to seeing what you do next!
Great Ferris reference. Love it.
2:00 that's the sound cars in GTA make when they are damaged enough to blow up after just one more little bump.
Logging oil pressure is pretty useless as method of improving : you will not prevent problems,but only have trace of those after the engine experienced problems.
You need a pressure switch cutting off ignition if oil pressure goes below a given pressure.
You can by pass it with a push button for starting the engine.
Also,shortening the oil pan is absolutely not a good idea,specially if you don't give it back its oil capacity with lateral pockets.
The engine is already facing the wrong direction in the engine bay,wich is quite a concern in itself.for lateral forces.
Wow that was a very good explanation
Here's a crazy idea - try to put a Kawasaki H2 supercharged engine in there!
Regarding the 'glitter', had my fair share rebuilding RZ250 2-stroke engines. Twice in one day, once - forgot to enrich the fuel ratio for the run-in and it decided to soft-seize itself 10 min into 1st run. Fun times.
You do realize that it would be really expensive to get H2 engine? Let alone to find ones. Much reasonable would be to buy ie. Busa or ZZR engines which both withstand turbo kits darn well.
Superfast Matt you're my Hero!
Reminds me of the time I threw a rod in my newly rebuilt MG-TF engine on the freeway. The cretan who rebuilt the engine reused the con rod bolts.
Sorry about losing your engine. Another thing to consider about the oil system pickup. Motorcycle engine generally have the engine across the bike therefore therefore the oil will slosh from the timing cover side to the flywheel side. In your car the oil sloshed from exhaust side to the intake side as in a regular car engine. What is going to be your replacement engine. Finish the Jag first.
Please upload your laps! I’d love to see a few laps of the mongrel before disaster struck!
Always finding new ways to make life bumpy. Congratulations and thanks for your efforts.
you can try a wider custom oilpan that holds more oil. we did this on our own FSAE car. worked well.
I had a Busa powered Lotus Seven clone with a swing oil pickup and I slightly overfilled the sump. 'Did lots of track days with absolutely no issues after 14 years of abuse. I wish I had installed a reversing box as the novelty of getting out to push wore off quickly.
Sweet build and autopsy.... subscribed!
First time seeing your channel mate, love the content just subbed.
Love this car ever since I saw it on Jay Leno's garage. Well done.
Matt; in regards to the newest project motor, may I suggest a Honda 800cc or 1300cc V4? From the VFR Series? There is a famous or infamous early CVCC (to become Civic) with one- it's the bomb! An older and crustier motorhead once said "Son, speed cost's momey- once when you buy it and again when you blow it up". With the help of the Algorithm, may we all prosper! FR
Excellent piece as ever SuperFastFerris - I bet 100mph in that feels transonic 😃 Second package of merch (mugs) arrived in the UK Monday (ordered the same day they were released), BTW… 👍
"...slight, ticking, noise.", it sounded like a tank!