I swear, the next time I build an off road Viper, I'm using the tutorials in these videos. This is much easier than the way I never did it before, the last time.
As the owner of a 2008 Mustang Bullitt. I would recommend you change that shift ball to something white ( I installed a Hurst shifter in mine). On a hot day the stock spun aluminum ball in the Bullitt will make your hand look like the Nazi guys hand on Indian Jones! ;)
@@Robdutton91shit I have a leather shift knob and I still wear mittens in the dead of winter. I don't even want to imagine how bad cold steel would feel.
Awesome video as always The part where you didn't feel like pulling the header to fix a frame issue but pulled the transmission to make a scan for potential upgrade way later was peak SuperfastMatt moment
@@connorbingel7134 the guys on the Engine Masters show on Motor Trend tested this. They ran an engine on a dyno with headers, then bashed the shit out of them and ran it again. It made zero difference until eventually they bashed them to the point they were practically kinked shut. The overall volume of the tube is almost unchanged, even with the deformation in shape. The engine doesn't even know the shape was changed. Bash away. It'll be fine.
Hey thanks for the kind words about my amateur AF how-to video :) Regarding the oil for the box, you're fine to use Dex3 for a fresh fill (not sure if it's compatible with what's in there atm so you might have to run the closest thing you can find). One of the factory fixes in Australia for gear rollover noise in the cars we got with T56's was to fill to the normal filler plug height then add another 500ml through the reverse light switch hole. You'll probably want to do that because of the angle the box is now on, should help with lubrication up the front of the box.
Why use a calendar or alarm app to set reminders when you can just tell strangers to remind you about it without specifyign exact time and date so that you will get spammed constantly lol. I love this channel.
Bwahahahaha 😂.. idk why this got me so good but I about die laughing prolly way more than should have over this comment 😅peace and love brotha keep it rad stay safe and build on .. l8z
On one hand it’s a lot of distraction, but on the others you’re inadvertently chipping away at that last 15% of the project that take 66% of the time. Perhaps more importantly you’re doing it while not hating the work. Really this is all win!
It's an exponential function in my shed. The projects emerge in normal speed until the slow-phase starts and when everything seems so far working the last 1% starts that needs 99% of the overall time which is why not one really ever gets "ready and finally finished" ....😁
As a fellow ADHDr I’m thoroughly impressed you have made as much progress as you have. At every roadblock/ waiting for parts I would have started 6 new projects and finished none of them
My ADHD activated while waiting for BMW parts by accidentally winning a BaT auction for a Jag XJ-S V12. It's still on a container ship and won't be here for a little while longer, which means I will soon be ordering all the BMW parts to distract me from the Jag things that distracted me from ordering the BMW parts.
@@jsquared1013 This is me with my Thunderbird and my shed. I keep ordering shelving and welding equipment to build the workshop portion in my shed so I have an excuse to ignore my Thunderbird that has a misfire. I got the misfire down from a constant misfire to a once-every-10-seconds misfire, took the battery out to drain the electrics and reset the KAM... and that was a month ago. I just have to walk out there, lob the battery back in, and let it re-learn timing, but pulling shelving out of cardboard boxes and assembling it makes my brain dispense the happy chemicals. This week's distraction from that distraction though is my brother is paying me to build him a computer and replace the front bumper on his car that got obliterated by a deer. The ride of getting distracted by equally, if not more pressing things never ends. At the same time when you've been chasing the problem for a year and replaced every single consumable you could get access too your brain starts to get bored with it and needs to find something else to give that dopamine hit.
@@jsquared1013 That's awesome, I like Jags. My uncle runs a Jag shop, he has a concourse condition 350hp Type E and is currently building a "to-spec" D Type race car
Buy a cheap camera and stand/phone stand. Record what you do, and write down each step. Categorize them, and keep track of what you have going. You will eventually reach them all.
This channel tickles the exact same spot in my brain as Project Binky did. I enjoy watching Matt trying to solve his problems much more than trying to figure out my own.
Hi, I’m starting my fourth week as an engineering student, and it seems like your videos are what is gonna get me through the five years of university. :D Keep it up, love your videos:)
Rz is a digraph (2 letters for 1 sound) in Polish and old Czech spelling. In Czech it made rž sound (sound between r and ž, ž being 's' in 'usually'), while in Polish it joined Ž (or in Polish spelling Ż).
The "Ferrari style" gated shifter plate is a real beauty , it turns the car into a Viperrati ! PS : Offering the shifter plate online for other car models might start a new business on the side!
Metal gated shifters are actually a huge pain in the ass because any fraction of a mm misalignment that inevitably happens (bushing/bearing wear in the linkage, different expansion rates of the materials in winter vs summer, etc) will cause the shifter to rub on the gates or even bind. On a shifter with a boot you'd never even notice.
@@jsquared1013or, you know, those flexible rubber mounts flexing. The shifter in my pickup moves like an entire inch to the right when I really work it hard and torque the engine over
I smoked my 2nd T5 this week. The speedo is screw driven. Which means if it's not plugged, it turns into an Archimedes screw, only pumping out oil when driving. Fun times.
3:40 there's nothing much more relieving than finding a "how to" video that's 48 seconds long, surrounded by other videos for the same issue that are all 8 minutes and 1 second.
I knew immediately when you started lowering the trans that it was gonna puke oil out the back. Watching you work feels like watching myself in 3rd person sometimes
I recently did my clutch, and the instructions for dropping the transmission started with "drain the transmission fluid". I had no idea why, but I did it anyway since I figured it needed a change. Well, now I know why. It pukes it out the back (but why does it puke out the back?)
@@ryan.crosbyit pukes out because most transmissions can't seal without a driveshaft in place. The seal seals against the driveshaft. I think they do this so the splines are lubricated with transmission fluid, but I still don't like it.
The 2x stack of spacers is awesome and triggered a great memory for me...Back in 2003 I had a 1996 mustang with a T5 and I made my own short shifter by putting 2x 1/4" spacers under the existing shifter, and I drilled a new hole for the fulcrum ball pin to move it up 1/2" (instead of cutting and extending the bottom shift ball) I also chopped off 3" of the top of the shift lever, and I was left with a painfully short 1" throw shifter. I actually bruised my palm the first week of driving because I was previously used to the 3" long shift throw!
Dodge mentioned when Throttle showed up at Roadkill Nights with their Hellcat and 6 speed manual that they tried a Hellcat and 8 speed auto in this style of Viper and they said the transmission tunnel was too small.
gl5 has additives and friction modifiers that will make make your syncros slip too much and wear them out (or something to that effect idk), as a bonus older gl5 formulations would also corrode brass which is what they made syncros out of for quite a while.
Hilarious how many of the same issues I had when putting an NV4500 on my 488 Magnum 8.0L V10, the all iron cousin of your engine. The NV4500 calls for the same fluid because of the carbon synchros, but like you said it doesn't exist anymore. Red Line MT85 is another common suggestion I see, but TBH I couldn't be bothered to spend $23 or more a quart and I won't be towing. So I went with Valvoline Synchromesh MTF because if you find the right PDF it is listed as a replacement for Syntorq and I managed to get it for less than $7.50 a quart. Weird mix of imperial and metric fasteners on the trans and engine as well. I still can't tell what all of them are. Plus your engine and my engine both use some bolts that no other Chrysler uses. Flywheel bolts specifically! My driveshaft process will end up being nearly identical to yours as well, but I will be keeping IRS which means a stationary diff which does make it all a bit easier.
Fine adjusting device ! LOL! As a fellow engineer, I love it ! Screw math - just experiment and see what happens ... 🙂Keep it up Matt - beats a normal 9-5 engineering job any day !
Matt: Diveshaft installed. (slow dramatic applause and fist pumps) That's what I like to see... I mean I like seeing it _all_ but y'know, we've been expecting this for about a month now, so good on ya.
If you don't have Clutch align tool, you can use One Second Glue (super glue) to glue it to flywheel or pressure plate on 3 dots and then you can instal transmission :)
General guidelines on inch vs metric fasteners. If the component into which the fastener is being threaded was originally developed during an era when inch measurements were the norm, that component will likely use inch fasteners. If the component was originally developed after metric became the standard it will use metric. I've had a lot of 90s GM and Mopar vehicles, and generally the engines and axles use inch fasteners, while the bodies use metric. Suspensions are usually metric. Transmissions and transfer cases will depend on the model, and transmissions in particular often have a mix, just like in this case. Since the V10 in the Viper is a derivative of the old Chrysler LA small block, I would expect it to use inch fasteners.
Gm favorite, since we race mostly Buick 3800 powered vehicles, is when the the answer to "what size is that bolt" results in 4 different correct answers. 3800 valve cover bolts until the end of the production about 2009 were SAE threads. By about 1997, almost anything on the cars they were installed in were metric. GM did the most GM thing possible and just made the bolt heads metric. So there are four possible valve cover bolts for the after-odd-fire GM 90 degree V6 (Series 1-3 3800) and I swear our spare motor had all four.
@@michaelkrenzer3296 I'm not saying you're wrong, because I certainly haven't seen everything, but that would make zero sense. There's no reason to put a metric head on an SAE fastener. There's no benefit to it. I don't care who's right or wrong on that assertion, but I'm curious if you have any documentation that supports that. I'm genuinely curious to read about it if that actually happened.
@@HomebrewHorsepower No documentation just lots of the engines. Three in cars right now, two spares, two we blew in the past and I have worked on or flipped four others. 1995 was gen 1.5 on most vehicles with gen 1 block but gen II rotating assembly so bad example. 1994 was all gen I and used 1/4-20 valve cover bolts with 5/16" heads. These are special shoulder bolts with a large flange head in grommets to avoid over torquing. 1996 supercharged motors from two different Pontiacs 1/4-20 threads 10mm head...before you say that is just 3/8"...quality 3/8 sockets and wrenches would not fit unless pounded on. 2001 Buick Regal GS supercharged engine in my garage on the stand to be stripped and refit with the race car accessories has all 10 mm head except the 5/16" head I put on from a box of spares because one was missing.
If you run your brake lines mounted to the bottom link bar you only need about a 6” long flex line on both ends of the link bar. And it’s protected a lot better.
The engineering solution to the frame header clearance is a welded gusseted cap. The easy solution is drill a hole in the underside of the frame rail there and pull the hole down with a slide hammer
4:00 Definitely worth investing in some ZEP Instant Spill Absorber, I've spilled so much ATF in my garage from pulling a TH350. Cleans spills like this right up.
6:28 -- "Not sure if this is what you need? Give us a call and we'll look it up for free if you purchase the tools or parts from us!" Wait a minute... as a confused customer, how am I supposed to commit to that offer if I don't know if it's the part I want? "Not sure if you like pickle ice cream? Give us a visit and we'll give you a free sample if you purchase the quart of pickle ice cream from us!"
Awesome video as always. As for the hole in the frame rail, trim the sides of the hole so they're reasonably straight, cut and bend a piece of steel to cover the hole, and JB Weld it. Problem solved.
I made a shifter for my aircooled vw using the same principle. The stock shaft was too short and I had to hunch down to shift, so I build a short shifter with a longer shaft, so the throw is a little shorter than stock, but with the ball some 10 cm above the stock location.
@9:00 Min, yeah, I have a Jeep with locking diffs. The signal that is fed back shows when the differential ACTUALLY successfully locks. Many times it takes a bit to get it to actually lock. Mine are Dana 44 diffs, and I BELIVE it is a contact closure. It's a touchy thing to NOT damage when installing the differential, the switch needs to be held OPEN (pulled out) with a split piece of tubing that you tie off to a string for removal once the differential cap-bolts are tightened. IF you don't hold it OPEN and install the diff and tighten down the cap-bolts you WILL ruin the switch. Not 100% sure it is a contact closure, but I believe I tested mine and I don't think it is a networked or 4-20mA signal. good luck!
I appreciate you calling out the parts sellers by name who are asking ludicrous prices for the most mundane parts. $245 for a clutch alignment tool? They should be ashamed of themselves.
I love that there are some new toys in the works for future Matt, it would be unfair to leave him all the problems but not give him something to look forward to as well.
the double worm screw hose clamp balancing works really well. I used it to balance my little cnc lathes spindle. also if you can do some math, or have a decent cad software you can use the screw clamps to balance it, then calculate the center of mass of the screw clamps and select an appropriate weight to weld onto the shaft.
I appreciate the straightforward no nonsense nature of your videos, but, I will say the parts where you sponsor your own welder, lathe, Fine Adjustment Devices, etc. are very effective and make me strive for my own tools and places to forget about things.
Easiest way to measure for a driveshaft is to put the car on its suspension. Either by lifting it by the wheels or putting jackstands under the suspension so it's supporting it's own weight.
We don't call it a W joint because there is a W configuration for U joints where your angles are equal, but also opposite. This is contrasted with Z configuration that is more common where the planes of the input and output flanges are parallel.
When the end of the video loops back to the beginning, Matt’s boyish talking head algorithm outro clip instantly ages to present day Daddy Matt. It’s jarring.
In many languages, the "U-joint" is called "cardan joint". Also, the axles with such joints are called "cardan axles". "Joint" and "axle" obviously translated to each respective language and cardan sometimes with a "k", because not all languages use the letter "c".
If you choose the correct font for the W joint it would look like two U connected completing the double U joint to a W joint. I would call it the boob joint. Singular to create an entire new enigma.
I swear, the next time I build an off road Viper, I'm using the tutorials in these videos. This is much easier than the way I never did it before, the last time.
Yeah, I never even considered doing it but this seems much better than the way I never considered doing it.
As the owner of a 2008 Mustang Bullitt. I would recommend you change that shift ball to something white ( I installed a Hurst shifter in mine). On a hot day the stock spun aluminum ball in the Bullitt will make your hand look like the Nazi guys hand on Indian Jones! ;)
Is that a Bollywood production?
@@davidpawson7393actually an old spaghetti western
I had a solid steel ball shifter in my old Type R and on cold days I had to wear gloves to drive until the steel got warm
@@Robdutton91shit I have a leather shift knob and I still wear mittens in the dead of winter. I don't even want to imagine how bad cold steel would feel.
yea lol :D
Awesome video as always
The part where you didn't feel like pulling the header to fix a frame issue but pulled the transmission to make a scan for potential upgrade way later was peak SuperfastMatt moment
Different transmission is shiny and new. Frame weld is old and messy.
@@SuperfastMatt and that's the off road vipers whole thing
I’m just here to feed the algorithm … Patreon for the win.
Same!
I'll help you feed it a little harder
WOOOO PATREON!!!!!!
Yes :)
All hail
Nothing better on a weekend than a great SuperFastMat video. Also fuck the auto that slot shifter is awesome!!!!!!!!!
Nothing better on a weekend than a great SuperFastMat video. Also fucked: the auto that slot shifter is awesomely BAD!!!!!!!!!
It's terrible. He has to keep it.
You can just dent the header for clearance. It doesn't hurt performance.
probably would have been good to know before he cut the frame rail
Yeah I never really see Matt hack shit, its why I watch this channel. But that was hack central yo...
I learned this the other day working on late models. They said fuck the .1 of an HP you lose
@@connorbingel7134 the guys on the Engine Masters show on Motor Trend tested this. They ran an engine on a dyno with headers, then bashed the shit out of them and ran it again. It made zero difference until eventually they bashed them to the point they were practically kinked shut. The overall volume of the tube is almost unchanged, even with the deformation in shape. The engine doesn't even know the shape was changed. Bash away. It'll be fine.
@@HomebrewHorsepowerwas going to come and mention this!
Hey thanks for the kind words about my amateur AF how-to video :)
Regarding the oil for the box, you're fine to use Dex3 for a fresh fill (not sure if it's compatible with what's in there atm so you might have to run the closest thing you can find). One of the factory fixes in Australia for gear rollover noise in the cars we got with T56's was to fill to the normal filler plug height then add another 500ml through the reverse light switch hole. You'll probably want to do that because of the angle the box is now on, should help with lubrication up the front of the box.
SuperfastMatt, a channel featuring jankly engineering, an offroad viper and a monotone-man, what else could you ask for?
It’s not jankly/janky; it’s not even half-assed, it’s fully-assed!
But sometimes, half-assed isn't assed enough
Why use a calendar or alarm app to set reminders when you can just tell strangers to remind you about it without specifyign exact time and date so that you will get spammed constantly lol.
I love this channel.
Which also boosts engagement on the other forms of social media 😜
I liked the captcha image
I actually set a calendar reminder exactly two weeks after this video released - and dismissed the notification when it showed.
All hail an unexpected Super Fast Matt video!
Still haven't recovered from seeing his shaft.
hopefully he'll do something with it this time instead of just whipping it out
Took him long enough to get it ready before whipping it out tho! 😂
Bwahahahaha 😂.. idk why this got me so good but I about die laughing prolly way more than should have over this comment 😅peace and love brotha keep it rad stay safe and build on .. l8z
Ahhh, a straightforward driveshaft install video. This is why I love your channel, Matt!
Thanks for dropping by! It's been fun watching this build come together.
Leaving a positive comment for the algorithm. I love the way Matt saves all his problems for his future self.
I also leave issues for my future self. It's good fun.
On one hand it’s a lot of distraction, but on the others you’re inadvertently chipping away at that last 15% of the project that take 66% of the time. Perhaps more importantly you’re doing it while not hating the work. Really this is all win!
It's an exponential function in my shed. The projects emerge in normal speed until the slow-phase starts and when everything seems so far working the last 1% starts that needs 99% of the overall time which is why not one really ever gets "ready and finally finished" ....😁
And that's why necessarily unnecessary mods are better than unnecessarily necessary mods
Don’t forget to do the things you forgot to do. They’re going to be important. Or something.
I'm writing him a letter right now... might take a while to find his address though, triangulating landmarks with google maps is hard.
As a fellow ADHDr I’m thoroughly impressed you have made as much progress as you have. At every roadblock/ waiting for parts I would have started 6 new projects and finished none of them
My ADHD activated while waiting for BMW parts by accidentally winning a BaT auction for a Jag XJ-S V12.
It's still on a container ship and won't be here for a little while longer, which means I will soon be ordering all the BMW parts to distract me from the Jag things that distracted me from ordering the BMW parts.
@@jsquared1013 This is me with my Thunderbird and my shed. I keep ordering shelving and welding equipment to build the workshop portion in my shed so I have an excuse to ignore my Thunderbird that has a misfire. I got the misfire down from a constant misfire to a once-every-10-seconds misfire, took the battery out to drain the electrics and reset the KAM... and that was a month ago. I just have to walk out there, lob the battery back in, and let it re-learn timing, but pulling shelving out of cardboard boxes and assembling it makes my brain dispense the happy chemicals.
This week's distraction from that distraction though is my brother is paying me to build him a computer and replace the front bumper on his car that got obliterated by a deer. The ride of getting distracted by equally, if not more pressing things never ends. At the same time when you've been chasing the problem for a year and replaced every single consumable you could get access too your brain starts to get bored with it and needs to find something else to give that dopamine hit.
@@jsquared1013 That's awesome, I like Jags. My uncle runs a Jag shop, he has a concourse condition 350hp Type E and is currently building a "to-spec" D Type race car
Buy a cheap camera and stand/phone stand. Record what you do, and write down each step. Categorize them, and keep track of what you have going. You will eventually reach them all.
Yeah I'm in the same boat, I'm rebuilding a house.... Way to many side quests.
If engineering classes were this entertaining there's be a waiting list at every school in America
This channel tickles the exact same spot in my brain as Project Binky did. I enjoy watching Matt trying to solve his problems much more than trying to figure out my own.
For the frame hole, perhaps fill it with expanding foam and then cover with JB weld.
It's not so much that the 'r' in Rzeppa is silent, it's that in Polish 'rz' is a digraph with the 'zh' sound.
I found this out the first time I heard a Polish person pronounce the name "Grzegorz." Needless to say, it was not how I expected 😆
@@jsquared1013A lot of Polish doesn't sound like an English speaker would expect lol. For example, the L with an accent making it sound like W
Thanks for making me feel better about how i go about projects
And so, Matt's instagram was forever plagued with "fix your frame hole"... even years after he did. :p
Best line of the show: "You know what? F**k the automatic. I'm keeping the 6 speed!"
Second best. Watch to the very end for the best line. :-)
There should be a guide on what transmissions can take more hp. There's so much to discuss: NVH, side, compatibility...
Hi, I’m starting my fourth week as an engineering student, and it seems like your videos are what is gonna get me through the five years of university. :D Keep it up, love your videos:)
Rz is a digraph (2 letters for 1 sound) in Polish and old Czech spelling. In Czech it made rž sound (sound between r and ž, ž being 's' in 'usually'), while in Polish it joined Ž (or in Polish spelling Ż).
The "Ferrari style" gated shifter plate is a real beauty , it turns the car into a Viperrati ! PS : Offering the shifter plate online for other car models might start a new business on the side!
Metal gated shifters are actually a huge pain in the ass because any fraction of a mm misalignment that inevitably happens (bushing/bearing wear in the linkage, different expansion rates of the materials in winter vs summer, etc) will cause the shifter to rub on the gates or even bind. On a shifter with a boot you'd never even notice.
@@jsquared1013or, you know, those flexible rubber mounts flexing. The shifter in my pickup moves like an entire inch to the right when I really work it hard and torque the engine over
Thanks for the video.
Finally a Matt video that gets right to the point of installing drive shaft at the 13 min mark rufflly.
*I JUST WATCHED VIDEO* of a guy who conducted a 7 year experiment and summarised it in a 4 minute video, he reminded me a lot of our Matt here...
You get as distracted as I do. 😂 Thank you for the ending. Keep them entertained, and wanting more. 👍
I smoked my 2nd T5 this week. The speedo is screw driven. Which means if it's not plugged, it turns into an Archimedes screw, only pumping out oil when driving. Fun times.
3:40 there's nothing much more relieving than finding a "how to" video that's 48 seconds long, surrounded by other videos for the same issue that are all 8 minutes and 1 second.
All hail the algorithm!
That shot at 13:25 just blows my mind 😅 that monster knobby tire is nestled into a stock arch. It's beautiful
I knew immediately when you started lowering the trans that it was gonna puke oil out the back. Watching you work feels like watching myself in 3rd person sometimes
I recently did my clutch, and the instructions for dropping the transmission started with "drain the transmission fluid". I had no idea why, but I did it anyway since I figured it needed a change. Well, now I know why. It pukes it out the back (but why does it puke out the back?)
@@ryan.crosbyit pukes out because most transmissions can't seal without a driveshaft in place. The seal seals against the driveshaft. I think they do this so the splines are lubricated with transmission fluid, but I still don't like it.
Another short video straight to the point without any new ideas or fuckarounds 😁
The 2x stack of spacers is awesome and triggered a great memory for me...Back in 2003 I had a 1996 mustang with a T5 and I made my own short shifter by putting 2x 1/4" spacers under the existing shifter, and I drilled a new hole for the fulcrum ball pin to move it up 1/2" (instead of cutting and extending the bottom shift ball) I also chopped off 3" of the top of the shift lever, and I was left with a painfully short 1" throw shifter. I actually bruised my palm the first week of driving because I was previously used to the 3" long shift throw!
"Let's pull out the transmission to install the driveshaft"...this is hysterical to me because it mimics my projects so closely.
Dodge mentioned when Throttle showed up at Roadkill Nights with their Hellcat and 6 speed manual that they tried a Hellcat and 8 speed auto in this style of Viper and they said the transmission tunnel was too small.
gl5 has additives and friction modifiers that will make make your syncros slip too much and wear them out (or something to that effect idk), as a bonus older gl5 formulations would also corrode brass which is what they made syncros out of for quite a while.
On this episode, Matt figures out how to add 3.5 inches to his lever
Joint types and slip yokes 0:24 could be a podcast title
Hilarious how many of the same issues I had when putting an NV4500 on my 488 Magnum 8.0L V10, the all iron cousin of your engine. The NV4500 calls for the same fluid because of the carbon synchros, but like you said it doesn't exist anymore. Red Line MT85 is another common suggestion I see, but TBH I couldn't be bothered to spend $23 or more a quart and I won't be towing. So I went with Valvoline Synchromesh MTF because if you find the right PDF it is listed as a replacement for Syntorq and I managed to get it for less than $7.50 a quart. Weird mix of imperial and metric fasteners on the trans and engine as well. I still can't tell what all of them are. Plus your engine and my engine both use some bolts that no other Chrysler uses. Flywheel bolts specifically! My driveshaft process will end up being nearly identical to yours as well, but I will be keeping IRS which means a stationary diff which does make it all a bit easier.
don't forget to change the viper blinker fluid before you take it for a spin
Classic creating a problem when fixing a problem. A man after my own heart.
Fine adjusting device ! LOL! As a fellow engineer, I love it ! Screw math - just experiment and see what happens ... 🙂Keep it up Matt - beats a normal 9-5 engineering job any day !
The video starts off with him continuing putting the driveshaft in, then 9 minutes later he builds a shelf. Very chaotic and its great.
Matt: Diveshaft installed.
(slow dramatic applause and fist pumps) That's what I like to see... I mean I like seeing it _all_ but y'know, we've been expecting this for about a month now, so good on ya.
That final distraction was worth every moment!
If you don't have Clutch align tool, you can use One Second Glue (super glue) to glue it to flywheel or pressure plate on 3 dots and then you can instal transmission :)
The algorithm definitely prefers it when you add a wee video treat at the end. Thank you.
What a nice surprise to have a new video from you. Thanks for making it!
General guidelines on inch vs metric fasteners. If the component into which the fastener is being threaded was originally developed during an era when inch measurements were the norm, that component will likely use inch fasteners. If the component was originally developed after metric became the standard it will use metric. I've had a lot of 90s GM and Mopar vehicles, and generally the engines and axles use inch fasteners, while the bodies use metric. Suspensions are usually metric. Transmissions and transfer cases will depend on the model, and transmissions in particular often have a mix, just like in this case. Since the V10 in the Viper is a derivative of the old Chrysler LA small block, I would expect it to use inch fasteners.
I missed the joke in this comment
Gm favorite, since we race mostly Buick 3800 powered vehicles, is when the the answer to "what size is that bolt" results in 4 different correct answers. 3800 valve cover bolts until the end of the production about 2009 were SAE threads. By about 1997, almost anything on the cars they were installed in were metric. GM did the most GM thing possible and just made the bolt heads metric. So there are four possible valve cover bolts for the after-odd-fire GM 90 degree V6 (Series 1-3 3800) and I swear our spare motor had all four.
@@michaelkrenzer3296 do you mean they had bolts with metric heads and SAE threads? 😆 That does sound very GM...
@@michaelkrenzer3296 I'm not saying you're wrong, because I certainly haven't seen everything, but that would make zero sense. There's no reason to put a metric head on an SAE fastener. There's no benefit to it. I don't care who's right or wrong on that assertion, but I'm curious if you have any documentation that supports that. I'm genuinely curious to read about it if that actually happened.
@@HomebrewHorsepower No documentation just lots of the engines. Three in cars right now, two spares, two we blew in the past and I have worked on or flipped four others. 1995 was gen 1.5 on most vehicles with gen 1 block but gen II rotating assembly so bad example. 1994 was all gen I and used 1/4-20 valve cover bolts with 5/16" heads. These are special shoulder bolts with a large flange head in grommets to avoid over torquing. 1996 supercharged motors from two different Pontiacs 1/4-20 threads 10mm head...before you say that is just 3/8"...quality 3/8 sockets and wrenches would not fit unless pounded on. 2001 Buick Regal GS supercharged engine in my garage on the stand to be stripped and refit with the race car accessories has all 10 mm head except the 5/16" head I put on from a box of spares because one was missing.
Bro you don't just "whatever" driveshaft concentricity. May the engineering gods have mercy on your soul.
If you run your brake lines mounted to the bottom link bar you only need about a 6” long flex line on both ends of the link bar. And it’s protected a lot better.
The engineering solution to the frame header clearance is a welded gusseted cap. The easy solution is drill a hole in the underside of the frame rail there and pull the hole down with a slide hammer
4:00 Definitely worth investing in some ZEP Instant Spill Absorber, I've spilled so much ATF in my garage from pulling a TH350. Cleans spills like this right up.
I’m glad Matt is so focused and never gets distracted!
All hail the algorithm.
6:28 -- "Not sure if this is what you need? Give us a call and we'll look it up for free if you purchase the tools or parts from us!"
Wait a minute... as a confused customer, how am I supposed to commit to that offer if I don't know if it's the part I want?
"Not sure if you like pickle ice cream? Give us a visit and we'll give you a free sample if you purchase the quart of pickle ice cream from us!"
Thank you Matt! Great video, you would be a fun friend to help.
Awesome video as always.
As for the hole in the frame rail, trim the sides of the hole so they're reasonably straight, cut and bend a piece of steel to cover the hole, and JB Weld it. Problem solved.
SO; without all the distractions, this video was only about 5 minutes long! RIGHT TO THE POINT!
I made a shifter for my aircooled vw using the same principle. The stock shaft was too short and I had to hunch down to shift, so I build a short shifter with a longer shaft, so the throw is a little shorter than stock, but with the ball some 10 cm above the stock location.
@9:00 Min, yeah, I have a Jeep with locking diffs. The signal that is fed back shows when the differential ACTUALLY successfully locks. Many times it takes a bit to get it to actually lock. Mine are Dana 44 diffs, and I BELIVE it is a contact closure. It's a touchy thing to NOT damage when installing the differential, the switch needs to be held OPEN (pulled out) with a split piece of tubing that you tie off to a string for removal once the differential cap-bolts are tightened. IF you don't hold it OPEN and install the diff and tighten down the cap-bolts you WILL ruin the switch. Not 100% sure it is a contact closure, but I believe I tested mine and I don't think it is a networked or 4-20mA signal. good luck!
I appreciate you calling out the parts sellers by name who are asking ludicrous prices for the most mundane parts. $245 for a clutch alignment tool? They should be ashamed of themselves.
I love that there are some new toys in the works for future Matt, it would be unfair to leave him all the problems but not give him something to look forward to as well.
the double worm screw hose clamp balancing works really well. I used it to balance my little cnc lathes spindle. also if you can do some math, or have a decent cad software you can use the screw clamps to balance it, then calculate the center of mass of the screw clamps and select an appropriate weight to weld onto the shaft.
Can’t wait for the scanner review, expectations…exist. 😂🤣
The fact that he rescanned with his other scanner afterwords tells me it should be a GREAT review.
this is giving off some serious "This Old Tony" and "AvE" vibes, awesome content right there.
I love all these videos, but this one especially gave me the giggles - thank you Matt for another informative and entertaining video!
No problem is so great that it can't be drowned out by multiple other problems.
Good job can't wait for the shake down drive
Thanks Matt for providing the absolute bare minimum in engaging material for me to warrant not unloading the dishwasher for the next 16 minutes or so.
Someone (me) must acknowledge how completely badass the viper looks with those meats on it….OMG!!!
Damn I love this channel❤
Man these are the best videos on RUclips bar none
Good luck to that guy who balanced his driveshaft with watercup
This was a pretty simple and straightforward drive shaft engineering and installation video
I really should be in the garage working on my MGB, but that is for future Ron. Spending time listening to you work is time better spent.
This is the RUclips series I am most invested in at the moment, I can't wait to see this thing bashed
I appreciate the straightforward no nonsense nature of your videos, but, I will say the parts where you sponsor your own welder, lathe, Fine Adjustment Devices, etc. are very effective and make me strive for my own tools and places to forget about things.
Easiest way to measure for a driveshaft is to put the car on its suspension. Either by lifting it by the wheels or putting jackstands under the suspension so it's supporting it's own weight.
Great job on the video Matt! Thanks for making it.
5:00 The look in your eyes as you finally see the fluid is golden
Oh, the fluid is golden, too 😂
We don't call it a W joint because there is a W configuration for U joints where your angles are equal, but also opposite. This is contrasted with Z configuration that is more common where the planes of the input and output flanges are parallel.
I love SF Matt videos. Cars, engineering and the wit of 5 late night talk show hosts (minus the politics). Possibly the best content anywhere.
great video!! really nice project, I like how you find that part you need and than say: nah it's too expensive, I'll make my own
Here is an offering to the Algorithm. Thanks for keeping the content coming Matt!
This is a very concise summary of my entire life.
When the end of the video loops back to the beginning, Matt’s boyish talking head algorithm outro clip instantly ages to present day Daddy Matt. It’s jarring.
This is a great to the point tutorial on how to balance a driveshaft thanks Matt!
Is always a good day when Superfast Matt posts a new video. Best car channel on RUclips.
Stellar content as always! All hail the algorithm 💪🏻
I can't believe how close you live to my old neighborhood. That little driveline shop has done me good many times,
Future Matt - do the 8HP!
Your humor is amazing! I love watching your videos, it reminds me on myself when im in my DIY heaven
In many languages, the "U-joint" is called "cardan joint". Also, the axles with such joints are called "cardan axles". "Joint" and "axle" obviously translated to each respective language and cardan sometimes with a "k", because not all languages use the letter "c".
Another excellent distraction from life, thank you ❤
If you choose the correct font for the W joint it would look like two U connected completing the double U joint to a W joint. I would call it the boob joint. Singular to create an entire new enigma.
The shift gate might indeed be a bad idea.
Drill a hole in bottom of the frame, to let the water/critters/whatever out. Job done.
@newnewmee44 or one, larger hole?
I love the low key “in our next episode” ads.