Not used Gridfinity yet, but once my current project of Multiboard storage in 3 places on the wall in my shed is done, I'll have to seriously look at sorting out my tool storage with Gridfinity. I need something like this box for my deeper drawers
I started using the hex wall just before multi board came out but I’ve been thinking of switching. Once you start using gridfinity you won’t stop! funny enough I’m making a case that’s trending on printables now that’s very similar but with a clear window on top. video in a week or so.
Yes, I need a new magnetic plate ! This one has a couple of high spots you can see around the time 1:13. Need another video on something useful for your workshop? ruclips.net/video/fmsSIcgpRbs/видео.html Check out this printed utility knife
One thing I didnt add was that even though I printed in draft at 0.28mm layer height I think you could go even higher on the base and lid and cut down the print time a little.
yeah mine was a long one but this print was the reason I tuned a fairly specific gridfinity profile for mine. it’s one that f the reasons I had a lot of stringing but got it done in about a third the time it was going to be.
Upgrade the extruder setup, put in a bigger nozzle, even 0.8mm works, and some metal supports on the 2 towers to keep it sturdier, bet my ass you could halve the time.
love the box and color scheme for my medical supplies. stringing on your print is caused by two reasons, filament not dry enough and retraction setting. I have had exactly the same issue
100% thanks for the tip. I was rushing this one a bit and didn’t tune my retractions for this new filament I started using. You’ll have to check out the latest vids and you can see. ep20 ruclips.net/video/FxNsubX2KjE/видео.html I found a fire engine red that would be perfect with white for a medical kit. You can see it in this vid on one of the flexible dummies. ep15 ruclips.net/video/jULfHMS18os/видео.html
The whole point of Gridfinity is being able to adapt to spaces not thought for it. I don't think the material and time required to print this makes any sense, specially having better systems like Stanley SortMaster that are even cheaper than these prints... But hey, that's my opinion. If you like it or have an specific need for it of course go for it!
I appreciate the viewpoint. I agree gridfinity is great for getting organisation where there's something that doesnt exist but then there's plenty of drawer organisers out there as well so where would we use it? Although it's not quite as big, I can't get a Stanley sort master for cheaper than $19 and this case cost about $4 so for price it's a winner. Time wise, it would have been a lot less to go buy something or even order one with next day delivery. The way I've ended up using this though is more of a job to job carry case. I already have gridfinity in some drawers in the garage where everything lives permanently and If I'm doing something away from there, I can use this case, grab the boxes of stuff I need from the drawers and take it to where ever I'm doing something so works out great. You could probably do something similar with a store bought case but this way, all the gridfinity boxes I use inside as well in my office drawers and at my maker table are interchangeable and I dont need to replace all those. That's the beauty of gridfinity and 3d printing in general I guess. Whatever we need for our own situation is what makes sense.
The only thing I did to note was print with a really small layer height just for accuracy. If you download the hinge file it comes with both sides and just print on the small side, no support. If you use the parametric file to adjust sizes of anything just make sure you export the hinge object as a whole and you should be fine. I also take it off as soon as it prints and it’s still warm to ‘snap’ the hinge. For me hinges or parts like this seem to break internally better while they are warm but others I know have said the opposite so whatever works for you .
They do stack on top of each other and there's some tabs that make them lock in place to stop sliding off each other. You can also use the tabs to lock the boxes together on the sides and front.
For sure, new filament I havent tried before and had some initial fails on the base. I had to put the temp up higher than I would have liked to make sure the flow was high enough to not build up pressure overnight and fail again. I have to do the quick alternative when I have long prints but making sure I get a video out quick so the trending print isn't stale!
I found this one that looks like theres some spacer around the base so you lose a tiny but of available volume. www.printables.com/model/354934-packout-3-drawer-gridfinity-system
You gotta get a textured PEI build plate. I'm not sure if Creality is using polycarbonate, a BuildTak knockoff, or something else for their stock build plates but the adhesion is too strong, even for PLA, which makes removing prints a bitch.
In this case for sure. I think because it was such a large area it really stuck hard. For smaller prints it’s no where near as sticky and just the right amount, most of the time! I do want to get some more plates though. Especially looking at the different textured ones that makes the first layer look ‘carbon fibreish’ etc.
@@mateosalta64 +1 G10 bed surface. Smooth as silk and as long as the bed is heated prints are stuck on hard but you can almost flick them off once it cools.
100%. my old magnetic bed had a couple of bumps in it and the high spots were super thin. I never really had a problem though with the bottom of things, maybe because I typically do 4 or 5 bottom layers. I use that box a lot and still going strong. I just got a new magnetic bed you can see in the latest video with the hooks and it works brilliantly. ruclips.net/video/YEMrpsmQOSk/видео.html I realised now how beat up the Creality one I had was.
For me it works out about $3.50 - $4 USD but it'll depend a little on your settings, what kind of filament you use and how much you get it for. I used around 240gms and cant remember the exact price I got those filaments for but I usually buy mine around $20-$25 USD per Kg.
Basically some of the dimensions are parameters that you can change really easy instead of remodelling. There's an example of it in this video (ruclips.net/video/VST1j0NKjeQ/видео.html) where you just change a few numbers and the whole model changes.
I'm pretty happy with my setup and haven't looked at upgrades for a while but WOW, I hadnt seen the HERO ME platform before but looks pretty aaawesome. I'm going to have to check that out www.printables.com/model/39322-hero-me-gen-7-platform-release-4
@@3DPrintSmith mejorar tu ventilación de capa mejorará en un 70% tu calidad de impresión. Los voladizos quedan perfectos, es pasar de la tierra al cielo
im sorry wouldnt it be must cheaper and faster just buying a standard type case and printing gridfinity for it specifically? seems like a super waste of fillament let alone time for something that can just be bought. unless you absolutely need a case that is hyper specific to you but even then im sure you can find a different case that can fit all your stuff
It'd probably be quicker but I dont know about cheaper at least not where I live. I think with this one it's more about customising it and for me I was using up filament that I needed to get rid of anyway.
If one has the woodworking skills for it I think making cases like what Alexandre Chappell did for his system would be better. More sturdy as well. For small parts and not needing to be too rugged I like this solution.
Not used Gridfinity yet, but once my current project of Multiboard storage in 3 places on the wall in my shed is done, I'll have to seriously look at sorting out my tool storage with Gridfinity. I need something like this box for my deeper drawers
I started using the hex wall just before multi board came out but I’ve been thinking of switching.
Once you start using gridfinity you won’t stop! funny enough I’m making a case that’s trending on printables now that’s very similar but with a clear window on top. video in a week or so.
I like your focus on useful, practical prints such as this Gridfinity storage case as opposed to decorative prints. Keep up the good work!
Thanks !
I want to do this. Thanks for printing and reviewing it.
no problem. thanks for watching and good luck ! let us know how it goes for you.
Yes, I need a new magnetic plate ! This one has a couple of high spots you can see around the time 1:13. Need another video on something useful for your workshop? ruclips.net/video/fmsSIcgpRbs/видео.html Check out this printed utility knife
I'm looking forward to making this. Thanks for sharing!
I've started storing all my drill bits in mine and it's come in super handy for me.
this is seriously bloody awesome! I LOVE IT! will be printing one this week :D
One thing I didnt add was that even though I printed in draft at 0.28mm layer height I think you could go even higher on the base and lid and cut down the print time a little.
Ooof, the base plate alone is a 32 hour print on my Ender 3 Pro. I can't wait to upgrade to a faster machine. Thanks for sharing.
yeah mine was a long one but this print was the reason I tuned a fairly specific gridfinity profile for mine. it’s one that f the reasons I had a lot of stringing but got it done in about a third the time it was going to be.
Upgrade the extruder setup, put in a bigger nozzle, even 0.8mm works, and some metal supports on the 2 towers to keep it sturdier, bet my ass you could halve the time.
also, if you want to see speed, check out another RUclipsr friend of mine @3dwolfengineering www.youtube.com/@3DWolfEngineering
and see what they did.
love the box and color scheme for my medical supplies. stringing on your print is caused by two reasons, filament not dry enough and retraction setting. I have had exactly the same issue
100% thanks for the tip. I was rushing this one a bit and didn’t tune my retractions for this new filament I started using. You’ll have to check out the latest vids and you can see.
ep20 ruclips.net/video/FxNsubX2KjE/видео.html
I found a fire engine red that would be perfect with white for a medical kit. You can see it in this vid on one of the flexible dummies.
ep15 ruclips.net/video/jULfHMS18os/видео.html
The whole point of Gridfinity is being able to adapt to spaces not thought for it.
I don't think the material and time required to print this makes any sense, specially having better systems like Stanley SortMaster that are even cheaper than these prints...
But hey, that's my opinion. If you like it or have an specific need for it of course go for it!
I appreciate the viewpoint. I agree gridfinity is great for getting organisation where there's something that doesnt exist but then there's plenty of drawer organisers out there as well so where would we use it? Although it's not quite as big, I can't get a Stanley sort master for cheaper than $19 and this case cost about $4 so for price it's a winner. Time wise, it would have been a lot less to go buy something or even order one with next day delivery.
The way I've ended up using this though is more of a job to job carry case. I already have gridfinity in some drawers in the garage where everything lives permanently and If I'm doing something away from there, I can use this case, grab the boxes of stuff I need from the drawers and take it to where ever I'm doing something so works out great.
You could probably do something similar with a store bought case but this way, all the gridfinity boxes I use inside as well in my office drawers and at my maker table are interchangeable and I dont need to replace all those.
That's the beauty of gridfinity and 3d printing in general I guess. Whatever we need for our own situation is what makes sense.
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it ! thanks !
It looks like the hinges slide up to latch into another bin stacked atop it, is there anything on the sides to attach multiple together?
I havent tried but the author of the model said you can use the same latches as the front on the sides. just slide them up and attach to another.
Great Vid!
Is this doable using an Ender 3?
Thanks for watching. :-). The 4 x 4 is 190mm x 190mm so it should fit no problem.
Any special settings to print the hinges, I see they come in two parts and need to be lined up, supports internally?
The only thing I did to note was print with a really small layer height just for accuracy. If you download the hinge file it comes with both sides and just print on the small side, no support. If you use the parametric file to adjust sizes of anything just make sure you export the hinge object as a whole and you should be fine. I also take it off as soon as it prints and it’s still warm to ‘snap’ the hinge. For me hinges or parts like this seem to break internally better while they are warm but others I know have said the opposite so whatever works for you .
Do these stack cleanly for storage?
They do stack on top of each other and there's some tabs that make them lock in place to stop sliding off each other. You can also use the tabs to lock the boxes together on the sides and front.
You should check your printer settings. That was an insane amount of stringing and the print quality was pretty poor for an Ender.
For sure, new filament I havent tried before and had some initial fails on the base. I had to put the temp up higher than I would have liked to make sure the flow was high enough to not build up pressure overnight and fail again. I have to do the quick alternative when I have long prints but making sure I get a video out quick so the trending print isn't stale!
For anyone playing along at home it was the retraction setting.updated to 4mm and stringing and quality all good.
How does the cost of printing compare to buying a container?
Cost for that case worked out about $5-6AUD so around $3.50-$4 USD at the size I printed (4x4 grid)
Unless the design has a specific measurements
Is there any files out there for printing a Milwaukee packout case?
I found this one that looks like theres some spacer around the base so you lose a tiny but of available volume. www.printables.com/model/354934-packout-3-drawer-gridfinity-system
What material have you used to printing? PLA , PETG , TPU?
for this one it was all PLA
@@3DPrintSmith thanks dude
You gotta get a textured PEI build plate. I'm not sure if Creality is using polycarbonate, a BuildTak knockoff, or something else for their stock build plates but the adhesion is too strong, even for PLA, which makes removing prints a bitch.
In this case for sure. I think because it was such a large area it really stuck hard. For smaller prints it’s no where near as sticky and just the right amount, most of the time! I do want to get some more plates though. Especially looking at the different textured ones that makes the first layer look ‘carbon fibreish’ etc.
@@3DPrintSmithIm really liking using a G10 build plate
@@mateosalta64 +1 G10 bed surface. Smooth as silk and as long as the bed is heated prints are stuck on hard but you can almost flick them off once it cools.
Props to Makita
👍
not sure if its just me but sounds like you need to bump up audio
Thanks. Yeah was still working out my setup for that video getting the channel running. They get better !
Not sure if it is shadows, but the first layer at 0:50 looks suspect.
100%. my old magnetic bed had a couple of bumps in it and the high spots were super thin. I never really had a problem though with the bottom of things, maybe because I typically do 4 or 5 bottom layers. I use that box a lot and still going strong. I just got a new magnetic bed you can see in the latest video with the hooks and it works brilliantly. ruclips.net/video/YEMrpsmQOSk/видео.html I realised now how beat up the Creality one I had was.
Is like to see a tloc style case that is Gridfinity compatible.
I cant beleive it doesnt already exist, or at least my search-fu didnt find it.
How much does it cost?
For me it works out about $3.50 - $4 USD but it'll depend a little on your settings, what kind of filament you use and how much you get it for. I used around 240gms and cant remember the exact price I got those filaments for but I usually buy mine around $20-$25 USD per Kg.
Whats the meaning of parametric?
Basically some of the dimensions are parameters that you can change really easy instead of remodelling. There's an example of it in this video (ruclips.net/video/VST1j0NKjeQ/видео.html) where you just change a few numbers and the whole model changes.
@@3DPrintSmith Thank you
now you need print a HERO ME 7
I'm pretty happy with my setup and haven't looked at upgrades for a while but WOW, I hadnt seen the HERO ME platform before but looks pretty aaawesome. I'm going to have to check that out www.printables.com/model/39322-hero-me-gen-7-platform-release-4
@@3DPrintSmithif you don’t want your print head looking like Quagmire’s chin check out the Minimus shroud on Cults.
@@3DPrintSmith mejorar tu ventilación de capa mejorará en un 70% tu calidad de impresión. Los voladizos quedan perfectos, es pasar de la tierra al cielo
im sorry wouldnt it be must cheaper and faster just buying a standard type case and printing gridfinity for it specifically? seems like a super waste of fillament let alone time for something that can just be bought. unless you absolutely need a case that is hyper specific to you but even then im sure you can find a different case that can fit all your stuff
It'd probably be quicker but I dont know about cheaper at least not where I live. I think with this one it's more about customising it and for me I was using up filament that I needed to get rid of anyway.
If one has the woodworking skills for it I think making cases like what Alexandre Chappell did for his system would be better. More sturdy as well. For small parts and not needing to be too rugged I like this solution.
top tip, 1:30 this is very annoying
thanks for the feedback. I’ll keep that in mind.